Daniel Berlin Krog | en Foodie
2013-12-18 14:48
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Daniel Berlin Krog is located in the small village of Skåne-Tranås, about
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an hour drive from Malmö, in beautiful Österlen. This region consists of
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vast, fertile field, rolling hills, enchanted forests and a long coastline
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where the many hours of sun and mild climate provide favorable
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growing conditions. It goes without saying that it’s also a region ideal for
farming, foraging and hunting and the chef, Daniel Berlin, has a long and
established relationship with local producers of dairy products, meat
and vegetables.
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Simply, Daniel Berlin is surrounded by meadows and fields that provide
the restaurant with top quality regional ingredients that, in one way or
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another, define his simple yet highly creative style of cooking inspired by
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the surroundings of Österlen. In summertime he gets 80 per cent of his
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ingredients from his own three acres, while the rest are found within a
maximum of three miles from the restaurant.
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The prologue of a dinner here is brilliant. Nibbles are served in a fast but
not too fast tempo and not once do you need to use either knife or fork.
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Beech smoked cod head is first followed by an ultra-thin onion crisp,
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Daniel Berlin Krog | en Foodie
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beautifully served in its environment. Next was a lean and flavorful tartar
of ox heart with aromatic herbs followed by delicate little quail eggs
covered in lard from Linderöds pigs.
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Quail eggs covered in lard from Linderöds pigs
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Daniel Berlin Krog | en Foodie
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Potatoes were ever so lightly cooked and straight from the pan to dip in
a chilled cream of broccoli, with Alain Passard-like broccoli couscous
sprinkled on top. Chicken liver was smooth and velvety, served on crispy
spiced bread and had slight character of aronia, which contrasted the fat
liver and spices in a interesting way. A few mouthfuls of cauliflower soup
was next and here chef Daniel Berlin turn the simplest ingredient into
something extraordinary. Any chef who can make a cauliflower soup this
interesting will get my full attention.
Chicken liver
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Daniel Berlin Krog | en Foodie
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Cauliflower
Cod 31° was firm but perfectly tender having a clean taste with a subtle
tinge of heat from horseradish that gave this dish a depth of flavuor,
offset elegantly by some alcoholic vinegar gel.
Cod 31°
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Daniel Berlin Krog | en Foodie
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Mackerel had been cold smoked and had excellent flavour and moist and
rich meat. Some beets and blackberries added a tart and sweet element
with some umami sprinkled on top in the shape of seaweed. This was an
outstanding dish with all flavors dancing on the palate, achieving a
beautiful overall harmony.
Mackerel
Baked egg yolk with cabbage and browned butter was next and a
pleasant thing to eat, though not quite to the level of the other dishes
served this evening.
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Daniel Berlin Krog | en Foodie
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To follow was a signature dish at Daniel Berlin Krog where a celeriac,
blackened on open fire, is brought to the table where Daniel slice it and
scoops out its flesh. The celeriac has a beautiful meaty texture and was
served with a silky sauce sharpened with the typical Swedish cheese
Prästost. Some crispy bread made the textural balance complete.
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Daniel Berlin Krog | en Foodie
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Celeriac
Next was cauliflower served in different textures with cauliflower
mushroom and buttermilk. An elegant dish with every bite being a treat
of different textures and flavours.
Cauliflower
A mushroom broth was next, poured over small pieces of ox marrow and
dried cods roe, garnished with peppery flowers. This may not sound like
much but this dish was stunning. The broth, or liquid, was extracted
from a difficult process including several kilos of mushrooms. It was
incredibly light yet packed full of flavours that I felt was kept in control
by the soft, sweet and nutty marrow. The peppery aftertaste that came
from the little flowers just made this dish a wonderful thing to eat.
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Daniel Berlin Krog | en Foodie
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Mushrooms
Quail was next, sweet and succulent, with a depth of flavour that I had
no idea quail could have.
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Daniel Berlin Krog | en Foodie
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Quail
To follow was veal sweetbreads being light yet intense with just a bit of
crunch on the outside and soft and creamy interior. This came with
chanterelles, wood sorrel and an emulsion made of tallow that was rich
and complex, balanced in a lovely way by the wood sorrel.
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Daniel Berlin Krog | en Foodie
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Veal sweetbreads
Extra serving of veal sweetbreads
First dessert was wild raspberries with the taste of rugosa roses, a wellbalanced dessert with the perfume notes not overpowering the deep
raspberry flavour.
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Daniel Berlin Krog | en Foodie
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Raspberry
The last dessert was raw milk from a Simmenthal cow with elderberry
sorbet and tart berries being light and refreshing, the sorbet perfectly
made and balancing the acidity of the berries. A perfect way to finish off
a long meal.
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Daniel Berlin Krog | en Foodie
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A dish served at Daniel Berlin Krog is never more daring than delicious,
or too complicated. The main ingredient is allowed to shine and I believe
Daniel in a confident way uses interesting, and sometime absolute
genius, combinations to contrast and enhance the flavours of that main
ingredient. And most importantly, I love the fact that I don’t have to
struggle to think of the identity of Daniels cooking. Which can be the
case in many restaurants one visits.
Daniel Berlin Krog is one of the foremost restaurants in Sweden at the
moment.
***
After a dinner at the restaurant one can stay overnight at Logi
Gamlegård. Expect the chef himself, or perhaps his father, to drive you
back to the hotel.
***
Daniel Berlin Krog
Diligensvägen 21
273 92 Skåne Tranås
+46 (0) 417- 20300
Map
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kategorier: Dryck, Restaurangbesök • tags: archipelago, artisan cheese from Sweden,
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Daniel Berlin Krog | en Foodie
2013-12-18 14:48
starfoodscout
I do agree that Daniel Berlin is one of the best restaurants in Sweden. I
July I had one of my very best dinners ever at Daniel Berlin. Looking
forward very much to my next dinner there.
OKTOBER 6, 2013 KL. 16:43
SVARA
enfoodie
See you in December…
OKTOBER 7, 2013 KL. 12:18
SVARA
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