What holds the bobbin and regulates bottom tension? Bobbin Case What are the teeth that move the fabric through the machine called? Feed Dogs What controls the speed of the machine? Foot Pedal What can be turned to raise and lower the needle? Handwheel What holds the fabric in place while you sew? Presser Foot What raises and lowers the presser foot? Presser Foot Lever/Lifter What holds the top spool of thread? Spool Pin What sets the length of the stitches? Stitch Length Control What sets the width of zigzag & pattern stitches? Stitch Width Control What is the place where seam guidelines are located? Needle Stitch Plate What controls the tightness on the thread? Thread tension dial What pulls the thread from the spool? Thread Take Up Lever What kind of needle would you use when sewing knits to go between fibers and prevent damage? Ballpoint What kind of needle should be used with woven fabrics? Sharp What kind of needle can be used with either knits or woven fabrics? Universal What is the difference between all-purpose and serger thread? Serger thread is lighter weight. It doesn’t add as much bulk to the seam. Why is it important to purchase quality rather than bargain thread? (summarize) The fibers of the "bargain" thread splits easily while you're sewing and can cause knotting of the thread, breakage of the thread and can also cause a build-up of lint in the bobbin area and along the thread line from the spool to the needle. When should heavy duty threads be used? When extra strength is required for sewing of heavy vinyl, coating or upholstery fabrics. What things should you check if your sewing machine tension isn’t right? (loops or uneven stitches on top & bottom) Threading, thread tension dial, bobbin case What is the solution if the needle comes unthreaded when beginning a row of stitching? Make sure the take up lever is at the highest point. What should you do if thread knots up on the underside of the fabric when beginning to stitch? Hold thread ends under and to the back of the presser foot when beginning to stitch. What should you do if the sewing machine jams? Remove the bobbin case and hook and clean out threads. What should you do if the fabric does not move? Make sure the feed dogs are up and the presser foot is down. Check to see if thread is knotted under the fabric. What are some things that can cause a needle to break? Pulling on the fabric as you sew, the needle hitting something hard (like a pin), using the wrong needle size. What should you do to maintain a sewing machine & where do you find out how to do it? Clean it, dust out lint, oil it -Check machine manual What should you do to resolve skipped stitches, or snagged fabric? Change the needle - Make sure the needle isn’t bent or blunt. How would you resolve puckered seams? Check the thread tension. What is this, and what is it used for? Seam Ripper – used to remove stitches What is this, and what is it used for? Pin- used to temporarily hold fabric together. What is this, and what is it used for? Shears – used to cut fabric What is this, and what is it used for? Pinking Shears – used to finish raw edges so that they don’t fray What is this, and what is it used for? Rotary Cutter – used to cut fabric quickly and accurately What is this, and what is it used for? Seam Gauge – Used when measuring hems, seam allowances, etc. What is this, and what is it used for? Tape Measure – used when taking body measurements and other measurements What is the difference between pressing & ironing? Pressing is up and down. Ironing is back and forth. What does it mean to press as you sew? Press each construction detail immediately after stitching. Why is pressing important? It makes it look professional Why is it important not to over or under press? Overpressing makes it look old and worn. Underpressing makes it look homemade. What iron temperature setting would you use for acrylic, acetate, spandex, and silk? Low Heat What iron temperature setting would you use for rayon, polyester, nylon, and wool? Moderate Heat What iron temperature setting would you use for cotton and linen? High Heat What is this, and what is it used for? Pressing cloth - used prevent shine or iron marks on fabric. What is this, and what is it used for? Seam Roll - It is used to press small curves or long seams in narrow areas. What is this, and what is it used for? Tailor’s Ham - Used for pressing curved areas of a garment. What is this, and what is it used for? Sleeve Board - Used to press garment parts that will not fit on a regular ironing board. What is a natural fiber? A fiber that comes from plants or animals. What is a synthetic fiber? A fiber formed from raw materials through manufacturing processes in factories. How is woven fabric made? By interlacing two sets of yarns placed at right angels to each other. How is nonwoven fabric made? By bonding fibers together into a web. How are knits made? by a series of loops from the same, continuous yarn, interlocked together. What is grain? Lines formed by the threads of the fabric. What is the lengthwise grain? The grain that runs parallel to the selvage edges of the fabric. What is the crosswise grain? The grain that runs perpendicular to the lengthwise grain. What is the bias? This runs diagonally across the fabric. It has more stretch to it. What is the selvage? The finished edges of the fabric as it comes off a loom. What is the torn edge? The raw edge or cut edge. Which natural fiber is comfortable, easy to care for and very popular but tends to wrinkle? Cotton What kind of fabric is made from a flax plant? It is can withstand high temperatures and wrinkles easily. Linen Which natural fiber is made from the cocoon of a worm? It is soft and elegant but requires a lot of special care. Silk Which natural fiber comes from sheep, goats, and other animals? It is warm and absorbent, but usually not machine washable. Wool Which synthetic fiber is very strong and used in carpets and parachutes? It is not absorbent and tends to build up static. Nylon Which synthetic fiber is the most widely used in America, resists wrinkles, but builds up static electricity? Polyester Which synthetic fiber is often used for sweaters? It is soft and warm, but the surface tends to pill. Acrylic Which manufactured fiber is made from wood pulp. It is soft and drapes well, but it tends to wrinkle and isn’t very strong. Rayon Which synthetic fiber is stretchy and often used in sports wear? It is strong and light weight, but does break down in chlorine bleach. Spandex Which synthetic fiber has a luxurious feel and appearance and is commonly used as linings in suits and in formal wear, but wrinkles easily and must be ironed on very low heat. Acetate What can be done to get the desirable characteristics of more than one kind of fiber? They can be blended together What measurement would you use to determine the pants size? Hips What measurement would you use to determine shirt size? Chest or bust What are notions? Supplies that will be needed to complete the project. (elastic, thread, buttons, bias tape, zippers, and trims are all notions.) What are some things you should remember when laying out a pattern? (summarize) Lay all pattern pieces on the fabric before pinning any of them in place. Avoid placing pattern pieces on the selvage edges of the fabric. Place each pattern piece so the grainline arrow runs lengthwise on the fabric. What should you remember when pinning pattern pieces to your fabric? Pin with care to prevent inaccurate cutting. Place pins about 6 inches apart and completely inside the cutting line. What are some guidelines when cutting out pattern pieces? (Summarize) Use sharp shears or a rotary cutter. Do not allow the fabric to hang over the edge of the table. Leave the fabric resting on the table as you cut. Cut notches out away from the seam allowance. Use care when cutting multisized patterns. What is this pattern symbol used for? Buttonhole and button placement. (may be used together or separately) What is this pattern symbol used for? Dots and squares. Transfer to fabric for use in matching pattern pieces. What is this pattern symbol used for? Straight of grain. When placing pattern piece of fabric, make both ends of the arrow an equal distance from selvage. What is this pattern symbol used for? Notches. Used to match seams. (single notches front – double notches back) On a one sized pattern, what do the dashed lines represent? Stitching lines What is ease? The allowance added to a body measurement to make a garment wearable. What pattern symbol indicates that the pattern should be placed on the fold? A solid arrow that is bent on both ends. What do you need to remember with one way or directional fabric? The top of the pattern pieces must all go the same direction (so that the print is up). What is grading/layering? Trimming each layer of a seam allowance in varying amounts to reduce bulk. What can be used to remove an ink stain? Hair spray or rubbing alcohol How should you remove blood stains? Soak and wash in cold water How should you remove grass stains? Rub detergent into the area and launder with the hottest water possible for the fabric. What is this an example of? A Mitered Corner What are two advantages of a serger? 1. 2. 3. Finishes the edge Professional looking projects Saves time by sewing and finishing at the same time How do you determine the length of your buttonhole? depth of button + button diameter How do you determine the width of your elastic casing? Width of elastic plus ¼”