With Performance Testing
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Before addressing performance features,
make sure your fabrics and products meet
mandatory standards and customer
expectations for quality.
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Flammability
Restricted substances
Special children’s issues
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16 CFR 1610: Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
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CPAI-75: A Rate of Burn Standard for Sleeping Bags
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ASTM F1955-99 (2005): Standard Test Method for Flammability of Sleeping
Bags
CPAI-84: A Specification for Flame-resistant Materials Used in
Camping Tentage
16 CFR 1615/1616: Standard for the Flammability of Children's
Sleepwear
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ASTM D1230-10: Standard Test Method for Flammability of Apparel Textiles
ASTM D6545-10: Standard Test Method for Flammability of Textiles Used in
Children's Sleepwear
Other national, state, and local regulations
Industry standards
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Test method lists in this presentation are
NOT comprehensive.
For every AATCC method listed, there are
similar, identical—or totally different—ISO,
JIS, BS, etc. methods for measuring the same
property.
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CPSIA
Lead (children’s product ≤ 300 ppm; paint ≤ 90 ppm)
 Phthalates (toys and child-care items)
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Cal Prop 65: Safe Drinking Water and Toxic
Enforcement Act of 1986
American Apparel & Footwear Association RSL
Öko-Tex Standard 100
…
Other government and industry RSLs
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Tougher flammability and toxicity
requirements
ASTM F963-07ε1: Standard Consumer Safety
Specification on Toy Safety
Use and abuse
 Small parts (16 CFR 1500.50-53 and 1501)
 Sharp points (16 CFR 1500.48)
 Sharp edges (16 CFR 1500.49)
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Non-textile standards and regulations
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Care instructions
Fiber content
Safety
Identification
50% Cotton
50% Polyester
Hand or machine
Wash in cold water
No bleach
Tumble dry low
Made in U.S.A.
M
SHELL: 100% POLYESTER
INSERT: 100% NYLON
LINING: 100% NYLON
DOWN: 85% DOWN 15% FEATHER
EXCLUSIVE OF ORNAMENTATION
RN92740
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Dimensional Stability
Colorfastness
Strength
Durability

Know which features are important
 in
your product category
 at your price point
 to your customers


Know how to measure performance
Know how you compare with competitors
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Water resistance
Absorbency
Drying time
Moisture transport
 AATCC TM22: Water Repellency-Spray Test
Water is sprayed against the taut surface of a test specimen under controlled conditions. The
specimen is evaluated by comparing the wetted pattern with pictures on a standard chart. This
method is especially suitable for measuring the water-repellent efficacy of finishes applied to
fabrics
 AATCC TM35: Water Resistance: Rain Test
A test specimen, backed by a weighed blotter, is sprayed with water for five minutes under
controlled conditions. The blotter is reweighed to determine the amount of water passing through
the specimen. Tests at different intensities give a complete picture of the penetration resistance of
a single fabric or combination of fabrics.
 AATCC TM42: Water Resistance: Impact Penetration Test
Measures the resistance of fabrics to the penetration of water by impact, and thus can be used to
predict the probable resistance of fabrics to rain penetration resistance of garment fabric.
 AATCC TM70: Water Repellency-Tumble Jar Dynamic Absorption Test
Subjects specimens to dynamic conditions similar to those encountered during actual use. Not
intended for determining probable rain penetration resistance of fabrics, since it measures
absorption of water into, but not through, the fabric. Results depend primarily on the resistance to
wetting or water repellency of the fibers and yarns in the fabric, and not upon the construction of
the fabric.
 AATCC TM127: Water Resistance: Hydrostatic Pressure Test
Measures the resistance of a fabric to the penetration of water under hydrostatic pressure.
Dynamic
Absorption
Rain Test
Impact Penetration
Spray Test
Hydrostatic Pressure
AATCC/ASTM Moisture Management Technical Supplement
(MM TS) procedures (are not standard test methods. They have
not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes
stated in the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and
Technology Committees or ASTM International. Some of the
techniques may be considered for development as new
standards or incorporated into existing standards in the future.

AATCC TM 79: Absorbency of Textiles
The completeness and uniformity of textile processing as well as the suitability of a fabric for a
particular use is dependent upon its ability and propensity to take up water. The test is based on
the amount of time it takes for a drop of water to disappear from the surface of a specimen (by
being absorbed into the material).
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MM TS-01: Quick Water Absorbency
Designed to measure the water absorbency of textiles by measuring the time it takes for a drop of
water placed on the fabric surface to be completely absorbed into the fabric. May be used to
indicate comfort during wear, but most useful in measuring the affects of moisture control
treatments used on textiles.
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MM TS-04: Absorbent Capacity – Absorbency Testing System (ATS)
Measures water absorbency, rate, and direction with an infrared sensor to determine the
maximum absorbent capacity of a fabric.
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MM TS-05: Gravimetric Drying Test
Determines the time for a fabric to dry when wet with a specified amount of water. Indicates drying
time during wear or hang drying, but results may not be applicable in different temperatures and
humidities.
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MM TS-07: Drying Time
Determines drying time by wetting fabric and recording weight at set intervals until dry.

MM TS-08: Drying Time of Wet
Textile Fabrics
A test specimen saturated in distilled water is placed
inside a controlled atmosphere. Periodic weighings
determine the rate of water loss. Garment construction
is not considered.
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AATCC TM 195: Liquid Moisture Management Properties of
Textile Fabrics
The test method produces objective measurements of liquid moisture management properties of
knitted, woven and nonwoven textile fabrics. Results are based on water resistance, water
repellency, and water absorption characteristics of the fabric structure, including the fabric’s
geometric and internal structure and the wicking characteristics of its fibers and yarns.

MM TS-03: Horizontal Wicking
Determines the horizontal spread or area of wicking of 0.5 mL of
deionized water.

MM TS-06: Vertical Wicking
Measures the time for water to wick up six inches from a cut edge or the
distance wicked vertically in one hour.
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Air permeability
Vapor transport
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UPF
Colorfastness to light
Weather resistance
ASTM
D6544 (preparation)
AATCC TM183 (testing)
ASTM D6603 (labeling)
UPF
Range
Protection
Category
Effective UV
Transmission
UPF Rating
15-24
Good
6.7% - 4.2%
15, 20
25-39
Very Good
4.1% - 2.6%
25, 30, 35
40-50,
50+
Excellent
≤2.5%
40, 45, 50,
50+
 AATCC TM 16: Colorfastness to Light
Accelerated exposure for color change evaluation only.

AATCC TM 111: Weather Resistance of Textiles: Exposure
to Daylight and Weather
Test specimens and standard are exposed simultaneously to natural weathering. End point is a
specified degree of degradation (color change, strength loss, etc.) or a specific amount of radiant
energy. Exposures by calendar days, months, or years can result in more variation.
 AATCC TM 169: Weather Resistance of Textiles: Xenon Lamp Exposure
Sample and standard are exposed to a xenon lamp source. Strength and/or color is compared.
 AATCC TM186: Weather Resistance: UV Light and Moisture Exposure
Specimens are exposed to a fluorescent UV light source and periodic wetting. Resistance to
degradation is rated in percent loss in strength, or percent residual strength (breaking or bursting)
and/or color change.
 AATCC TM 192: Weather Resistance of Textiles: Sunshine-Arc Lamp
Exposure with and without Wetting
Test specimens and standard are exposed under specified conditions of relative humidity or
wetting. Weather resistance is evaluated by comparison to unexposed original material.
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Soil prevention
Soil removal
Oily
Protein
Mineral

AATCC TM118: Oil Repellency: Hydrocarbon Resistance Test
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AATCC TM130: Soil Release: Oily Stain Release Method
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AATCC TM193: Aqueous Liquid Repellency: Water/Alcohol
Solution Resistance Test
Evaluates resistance to wetting by a selected series of liquid hydrocarbons of
different surface tensions. Drops are placed on the fabric surface and observed
for wetting, wicking, and contact angle. The oil repellency grade is the highest
numbered test liquid which does not wet the fabric surface.
Measures ability of fabrics to release oily stains during home laundering.
Primarily to evaluate the likely performance of soil release finishes in actual use.
Determines the efficacy of a protective finish for imparting a low energy surface
on all types of fabrics by evaluating resistance to wetting by a series of
water/alcohol solutions of different surface tensions. Drops are placed on the
fabric surface and observed for wetting, wicking, and contact angle.
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Appearance retention
Strength retention
Abradant
Abrasion direction

ASTM D3884: Test Method for Abrasion
Resistance of Textile Fabrics (Rotary Platform,
Double-Head Method)
Abradant wheels trace a circular pattern on the fabric specimen.

ASTM D3886: Test Method for Abrasion
Resistance of Textile Fabrics (Inflated Diaphragm
Apparatus)
Determines the resistance to abrasion of woven and knitted textile
fabrics, both conditioned and wet, using the inflated diaphragm
tester. Result is the number of cycles until the abrasive panel breaks
through the fabric.

ASTM D4157: Test Method for Abrasion Resistance
of Textile Fabrics (Oscillatory Cylinder Method)
Abrasion resistance of woven textile fabrics using the oscillatory
cylinder tester. Common method for evaluating for upholstery.

ASTM D4158: Guide for Abrasion Resistance
of Textile Fabrics (Uniform Abrasion)
Every point in the surface of the specimen is equally and
uniformly abraded in all horizontal directions. Evaluation options
are fabric rupture, mass loss, thickness loss, and breaking
strength loss.

ASTM D4966: Test Method for Abrasion
Resistance of Textile Fabrics (Martindale
Abrasion Tester Method)
The Martindale abrasion tester moves specimens in a Lissajous
pattern against an abradant wool fabric. May not be suitable for
fabrics with a pile depth greater than 2 mm.

AATCC TM93: Abrasion Resistance of Fabrics:
Accelerotor Method
Specimen is driven along a zigzag course in a generally circular orbit
within a cylindrical chamber, impinging on walls and abradant liner
while being subjected to rapid, high velocity impacts. Evaluation is
made on the basis of weight loss or grab strength loss of the specimen
when broken at an abraded fold line.

ASTM F1868 : Standard Test Method for Thermal and Evaporative
Resistance of Clothing Materials Using a Sweating Hot Plate
Thermal resistance and the evaporative resistance, under steady-state conditions, of fabrics, films,
coatings, foams, and leathers, including multi-layer assemblies, for use in clothing systems.

ASTM D1518: Test Method for Thermal Transmittance of Textile
Materials
Measures the time rate of heat transfer from a warm, dry, constant-temperature, horizontal flatplate up through a layer of the test material to a relatively calm, cool atmosphere.

ASTM F1291: Test Method for Measuring the Thermal Insulation of
Clothing Using a Heated Manikin
Insulation value of clothing ensembles. The method describes the measurement of the resistance to
dry heat transfer from a heated manikin to a relatively calm, cool environment. This is a static test
that provides a baseline clothing measurement on a standing manikin. The effects of body position
and movement are not addressed.

ASTM F2370: Test Method for Measuring the Evaporative Resistance of
Clothing Using a Sweating Manikin
Determination of the evaporative resistance of clothing ensembles. This static test measures the
resistance to evaporative heat transfer from a heated sweating thermal manikin to a relatively calm
environment.

ASTM F1720: Standard Test Method for Measuring Thermal Insulation of
Sleeping Bags Using a Heated Manikin
This test method covers determination of the insulation value of a sleeping bag or sleeping
bag system. It measures the resistance to dry heat transfer from a constant skin temperature
manikin to a relatively cold environment. This is a static test that generates reproducible
results, but the manikin cannot simulate real life sleeping conditions relating to some
human and environmental factors
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Odor control
Rot resistance
Qualitative
Quantitative

AATCC TM30: Antifungal Activity, Assessment on Textile
Materials: Mildew and Rot Resistance of Textiles
The dual-purpose test method determines the susceptibility of textile materials to
mildew and rot AND evaluates the efficacy of fungicides on textile materials.

AATCC TM100: Antibacterial Finishes on Textile Materials:
Assessment of
One of the most commonly used and well-recognized tests for antimicrobial-treated
textiles, this method provides quantitative evaluation of the degree of antibacterial
activity. Bacteria on treated and untreated specimens are counted after innoculation
and incubation. Percent reduction by the treated specimen is calculated.

AATCC TM147: Antibacterial Activity of Fabrics, Assessment of
Textile Materials: Parallel Streak Method
This test detects bacteriostatic activity on textile materials. The Parallel Streak Method
provides quick and easy qualitative determination of antibacterial activity of diffusable
antimicrobial agents on treated textile materials. This method provides evidence of
antibacterial activity against both Gram positive and Gram negative bacteria.
“Testing Antimicrobial
Performance”
(AATCC Review,
Sept/Oct 2010)
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Diana Wyman
AATCC
wymand@aatcc.org
+1 919 549 3539