History of Costume – Edwardian Era { Victorian 1837 - 1914 Victorian Era – Crinoline 1837 - 1860 Men’s Fashion Prince Albert Coat Another name for the double-breasted frock coat with satin lapels, named after the consort of Queen Victoria who favored the style. String Tie Basic ribbon, often black, tied in a bow with the ends hanging down. Gaiters Covers that covered the shoe so they wouldn't get muddy. Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Crinoline Costume. Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume _History/crinoline.htm Victorian Era – Crinoline 1837 - 1860 Men’s Fashion Dundrearies Long side burnes, Lamb Chops, worn my Lord Dundreary on Our American Cousin, by Tom Taylor. Stove-Pipe Hat A tall, cylindrical hat with very little brim; worn by men. Pince Niz A style of eye glasses that pinched the nose. Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Crinoline Costume. Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume _History/crinoline.htm Victorian Era – Crinoline Women's Fashion 1837 - 1860 Return to the look of demure prim gentility Big hats leave and bonnets return The Gigot sleeve collapses in for a much narrower sleeve and dropped shoulder line. Tight, pointed longer boned bodice to emphasize a small waistline Pantalettes: Leg coverings of lace and ruffles that extended below the knees Thomas, P.W. (2008). Early Victorian Costume and Fashion History 1837-1860. Retrieved from: http://www.fashionera.com/early_victorian_fashion.htm Victorian Era – Crinoline Women's Fashion 1837-1860 Dolman: A three-quarter-length outer wrap made of brocade, silk, or woolen fabric with sleeves cut in one with the body. . Pagoda Sleeves A sleeve shaped like a funnel, tight above and gradually widening at the bottom, often finishing in several ruffles over a soft lawn under-sleeve. Sleeves were off the shoulders for evening wear for upper class. Thomas, P.W. (2008). Early Victorian Costume and Fashion History 1837-1860. Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/early_victorian_fashion.htm Victorian Era – Crinoline Women's Fashion 1837-1860 Bell shaped skirts become so large they are more dome shaped. Held up by 6 layers of petticoats Supported by stiffer fabrics with “Crin” woven in horsehair to make fabrics stiffer. Crinoline: any garment that used this type of lining to make it stiff Crinoline cage: metal steel frame cage that freed women of petticoats Thomas, P.W. (2008). Early Victorian Costume and Fashion History 1837-1860. Retrieved from: http://www.fashionera.com/early_victorian_fashion.htm Victorian Era – Crinoline Think Movies: Gangs of New York Gone With the Wind Little Women Victorian 1865-1890 Four factors that begin to influence fashion 1. 2. 3. 4. The invention of the sewing machine Fashion becomes couture design led Synthetic dyes allow for intense colors Dome skirt started to have a flat front and a dramatic leaning back. Thomas, P.W. (2008). Mid-Late Victorian Era Fashion. Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/midlate_victorian_fashion.htm Victorian 1865-1890 Men's Fashion Blazer—A lightweight sport jacket. Norfolk Jacket—A jacket with box pleats or straps of the same material passing over the belt and extending from shoulder to hem in front and back; usually worn for sport occasions. Inverness—A full, sleeveless cape which fitted closely around the neck; from Inverness in Scotland. Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Bustle Costume. Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume _History/bustle.htm Victorian 1865-1890 Men's Fashion Knickerbockers—Full, knee-length breeches gathered in at the knee Four-in-hand Tie—A type of necktie originally used by coachmen that is tied in a slip knot. Straw Boater—A man's hard straw hat coated with shellac from India that became popular for summer outings and sporting events in the 1870s Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Bustle Costume. Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume _History/bustle.htm Victorian - Bustle Women’s Fashion Bustle—Whalebone or steel strips placed in the top back of the petticoat or in a separate panier puff in order to hold out the elaborate draping at the back of the over skirt. Bloomers—Loose underdrawers usually gathered at the knee. Basque—A short, skirt-like termination of an upper garment (originally on the male doublet) Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Bustle Costume. Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume _History/bustle.htm Victorian - Bustle Women’s Fashion The Soft Bustle Fashion Silhouette 1867-1875 Apron style tablier top layer half skirt contrasting underskirts and gown linings were all revealed as the over top skirt was divided or turned back. Thomas, P.W. (2008). Mid-Late Victorian Era Fashion. Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/midlate_victorian_fashion.htm Victorian - Bustle Women’s Fashion From 1870, ball gowns always had a train. by 1873 the train was seen in day dress. By 1875 soft polonaise bustle styles were becoming so extreme that the soft fullness began to drop down the back of the garment and form itself into a tiered, draped and frilled train Victorian - Bustle Women’s Fashion Victorian Silhouette 1878-1901 Princess Line and the Cuirasse Bodice soft polonaise style bustle styles were replaced by Princess sheath garments without a waist seam with bodice and skirt cut in one. Cuirasse bodice: corset like and dipped even deeper both front and back extending well down the hips creating the look of a body encased in armour. Thomas, P.W. (2008). Mid-Late Victorian Era Fashion. Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/midlate_victorian_fashion.htm Victorian - Bustle Women’s Fashion The New Hard Bustle of 1883 jutting out shelf like style of bustle larger than ever as a hard shape that gave women a silhouette like the hind legs of a horse Minimal drapery in comparison to earlier bustles Slimmer more fitted severely tailored princess bodice, with a much flatter front. Thomas, P.W. (2008). Mid-Late Victorian Era Fashion. Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/midlate_victorian_fashion.htm Victorian - Bustle Think Movies: Far and Away Tombstone The Phantom of the Opera Edwardian Era 1890 -1914 Men’s Fashion Chesterfield—A fitted dress overcoat with hidden buttons and a velvet collar Kickers—Full breeches gathered or pleated into knee bands and buckled at the knee Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Fin de Siecle Costume - The Gay 90's. retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costum e_History/findesiecle.htm Edwardian Era 1890 -1914 Men’s Hats Panama Hat—A hand-woven hat of fine straw from Ecuador and Colombia, South America. For-and-Aft Cap—A cap having a visor front and back, often worn with an Inverness cape. Derby—A stiff felt hat with a low, round crown and narrow brim; the bowler has a slightly wider brim and a roll at the sides. Homberg—A carefully blocked, stiff felt hat with a medium tapering crown creased in the middle and a brim that was rolled up on the sides and finished in grosgrain ribbon Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Fin de Siecle Costume - The Gay 90's. retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costum e_History/findesiecle.htm Edwardian Era 1890 -1914 Women’s Fashion 1890-1910 Tailor Made—Mass-produced, ready-towear clothing that had a tailored fit often wool or serge because of the tailoring quality. Leg-o’-Mutton—A sleeve that was extremely wide at the top and tapered at the wrist. Shirtwaist—A woman’s top detached from the skirt. At first the focal point was the shoulders then it moved to the front. Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Fin de Siecle Costume - The Gay 90's. retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costum e_History/findesiecle.htm Edwardian Era 1890 -1914 Women’s Fashion 1890-1910 Gibson Girl—More often associated with the topknot hair style. Also a blouse with a single pleat which extended over each shoulder front and back, hiding the armseye of the shirtwaist. Image of 'The New Woman' who was competitive, sporty and emancipated as well as beautiful. Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Fin de Siecle Costume - The Gay 90's. retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costum e_History/findesiecle.htm Edwardian Era 1890 -1914 Women’s Fashion 1900 -1907 The S-Bend corset and pouter pigeon effect The high collar, S bend corset, trained skirt and lavish hat all had an effect on the posture of an Edwardian lady and it gave her a certain swaying grandeur. Evening wear exceptionally low sweetheart, square and round décolleté necklines allowed women to wear quantities of fine jewelry. No cleavage was visible as the bust was suppressed into a monobosom. Thomas, P.W. (2008). La Belle Époque Edwardian Fashion History. Retrieved from: http://www.fashionera.com/la_belle_epoque_1890-1914_fashion.htm Edwardian Era 1890 -1914 Women’s Accessories Gainsborough Hat— velvet, beaver, or straw hat having a low crown and a broad brim, trimmed with feathers. Feathers Gloves Parasols Bags Thomas, P.W. (2008). La Belle Époque Edwardian Fashion History. Retrieved from: http://www.fashionera.com/la_belle_epoque_1890-1914_fashion.htm Edwardian Era 1890 -1914 Think Movies: Anne of Green Gables Sherlock Holmes