Women`s Fashion

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History of Costume
– Edwardian Era
{ Victorian
1837 - 1914
Victorian Era – Crinoline
1837 - 1860
Men’s Fashion
Prince Albert Coat Another name
for the double-breasted frock coat
with satin lapels, named after the
consort of Queen Victoria who
favored the style.
 String Tie Basic ribbon, often black,
tied in a bow with the ends hanging
down.
 Gaiters Covers that covered the shoe
so they wouldn't get muddy.

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Crinoline Costume. Retrieved from:
http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume
_History/crinoline.htm
Victorian Era – Crinoline
1837 - 1860
Men’s Fashion
Dundrearies Long side burnes,
Lamb Chops, worn my Lord
Dundreary on Our American
Cousin, by Tom Taylor.
 Stove-Pipe Hat A tall, cylindrical hat
with very little brim; worn by men.
 Pince Niz A style of eye glasses that
pinched the nose.

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Crinoline Costume. Retrieved from:
http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume
_History/crinoline.htm
Victorian Era – Crinoline
Women's Fashion 1837 - 1860
Return to the look of demure prim
gentility
 Big hats leave and bonnets return
 The Gigot sleeve collapses in for a
much narrower sleeve and dropped
shoulder line.
 Tight, pointed longer boned bodice
to emphasize a small waistline
 Pantalettes: Leg coverings of lace and
ruffles that extended below the
knees

Thomas, P.W. (2008). Early Victorian Costume and Fashion
History 1837-1860. Retrieved from: http://www.fashionera.com/early_victorian_fashion.htm
Victorian Era – Crinoline
Women's Fashion 1837-1860
Dolman: A three-quarter-length
outer wrap made of brocade, silk, or
woolen fabric with sleeves cut in one
with the body. .
 Pagoda Sleeves A sleeve shaped like
a funnel, tight above and gradually
widening at the bottom, often
finishing in several ruffles over a soft
lawn under-sleeve.
 Sleeves were off the shoulders for
evening wear for upper class.

Thomas, P.W. (2008). Early Victorian Costume and
Fashion History 1837-1860. Retrieved from:
http://www.fashion-era.com/early_victorian_fashion.htm
Victorian Era – Crinoline
Women's Fashion 1837-1860

Bell shaped skirts become so large
they are more dome shaped.
Held up by 6 layers of petticoats
 Supported by stiffer fabrics with
“Crin” woven in horsehair to make
fabrics stiffer.



Crinoline: any garment that used this
type of lining to make it stiff
Crinoline cage: metal steel frame
cage that freed women of petticoats
Thomas, P.W. (2008). Early Victorian Costume and Fashion
History 1837-1860. Retrieved from: http://www.fashionera.com/early_victorian_fashion.htm
Victorian Era – Crinoline
Think Movies:
Gangs of New York
Gone With the Wind
Little Women
Victorian 1865-1890
Four factors that begin to influence fashion
1.
2.
3.
4.
The invention of the sewing machine
Fashion becomes couture design led
Synthetic dyes allow for intense colors
Dome skirt started to have a flat front and a
dramatic leaning back.
Thomas, P.W. (2008). Mid-Late Victorian Era Fashion.
Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/midlate_victorian_fashion.htm
Victorian 1865-1890
Men's Fashion
Blazer—A lightweight sport jacket.
 Norfolk Jacket—A jacket with box
pleats or straps of the same material
passing over the belt and extending
from shoulder to hem in front and
back; usually worn for sport occasions.
 Inverness—A full, sleeveless cape
which fitted closely around the neck;
from Inverness in Scotland.

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Bustle Costume. Retrieved from:
http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume
_History/bustle.htm
Victorian 1865-1890
Men's Fashion
Knickerbockers—Full, knee-length
breeches gathered in at the knee
 Four-in-hand Tie—A type of necktie
originally used by coachmen that is
tied in a slip knot.
 Straw Boater—A man's hard straw hat
coated with shellac from India that
became popular for summer outings
and sporting events in the 1870s

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Bustle Costume. Retrieved from:
http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume
_History/bustle.htm
Victorian - Bustle
Women’s Fashion
 Bustle—Whalebone or steel strips
placed in the top back of the
petticoat or in a separate panier puff
in order to hold out the elaborate
draping at the back of the over skirt.
 Bloomers—Loose underdrawers
usually gathered at the knee.
 Basque—A short, skirt-like
termination of an upper garment
(originally on the male doublet)
Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Bustle Costume. Retrieved from:
http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume
_History/bustle.htm
Victorian - Bustle
Women’s Fashion
 The Soft Bustle Fashion Silhouette
1867-1875
 Apron style tablier top layer half
skirt
 contrasting underskirts and gown
linings were all revealed as the
over top skirt was divided or
turned back.
Thomas, P.W. (2008). Mid-Late Victorian Era Fashion.
Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/midlate_victorian_fashion.htm
Victorian - Bustle
Women’s Fashion
 From 1870, ball gowns always had a
train.


by 1873 the train was seen in day dress.
By 1875 soft polonaise bustle styles
were becoming so extreme that the
soft fullness began to drop down the
back of the garment and form itself
into a tiered, draped and frilled train
Victorian - Bustle
Women’s Fashion
 Victorian Silhouette 1878-1901
 Princess Line and the Cuirasse
Bodice


soft polonaise style bustle styles were
replaced by Princess sheath garments
without a waist seam with bodice and
skirt cut in one.
Cuirasse bodice: corset like and
dipped even deeper both front and
back extending well down the hips
creating the look of a body encased
in armour.
Thomas, P.W. (2008). Mid-Late Victorian Era Fashion.
Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/midlate_victorian_fashion.htm
Victorian - Bustle
Women’s Fashion
 The New Hard Bustle of 1883
 jutting out shelf like style of bustle

larger than ever as a hard shape that
gave women a silhouette like the
hind legs of a horse
Minimal drapery in comparison to
earlier bustles
 Slimmer more fitted severely tailored
princess bodice, with a much flatter
front.

Thomas, P.W. (2008). Mid-Late Victorian Era Fashion.
Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/midlate_victorian_fashion.htm
Victorian - Bustle
Think Movies:
Far and Away
Tombstone
The Phantom of the Opera
Edwardian Era 1890 -1914
Men’s Fashion
Chesterfield—A fitted dress
overcoat with hidden buttons
and a velvet collar
 Kickers—Full breeches
gathered or pleated into knee
bands and buckled at the
knee

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Fin de Siecle Costume - The Gay
90's. retrieved from:
http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costum
e_History/findesiecle.htm
Edwardian Era 1890 -1914
Men’s Hats
Panama Hat—A hand-woven hat of fine
straw from Ecuador and Colombia, South
America.
 For-and-Aft Cap—A cap having a visor
front and back, often worn with an
Inverness cape.
 Derby—A stiff felt hat with a low, round
crown and narrow brim; the bowler has a
slightly wider brim and a roll at the sides.
 Homberg—A carefully blocked, stiff felt
hat with a medium tapering crown creased
in the middle and a brim that was rolled
up on the sides and finished in grosgrain
ribbon

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Fin de Siecle Costume - The Gay
90's. retrieved from:
http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costum
e_History/findesiecle.htm
Edwardian Era 1890 -1914
Women’s Fashion 1890-1910
Tailor Made—Mass-produced, ready-towear clothing that had a tailored fit often
wool or serge because of the tailoring
quality.
 Leg-o’-Mutton—A sleeve that was
extremely wide at the top and tapered at the
wrist.
 Shirtwaist—A woman’s top detached from
the skirt. At first the focal point was the
shoulders then it moved to the front.

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Fin de Siecle Costume - The Gay
90's. retrieved from:
http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costum
e_History/findesiecle.htm
Edwardian Era 1890 -1914
Women’s Fashion 1890-1910

Gibson Girl—More often associated
with the topknot hair style. Also a
blouse with a single pleat which
extended over each shoulder front
and back, hiding the armseye of the
shirtwaist.

Image of 'The New Woman' who was
competitive, sporty and emancipated
as well as beautiful.
Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Fin de Siecle Costume - The Gay
90's. retrieved from:
http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costum
e_History/findesiecle.htm
Edwardian Era 1890 -1914
Women’s Fashion 1900 -1907

The S-Bend corset and pouter pigeon
effect


The high collar, S bend corset, trained
skirt and lavish hat all had an effect on
the posture of an Edwardian lady and it
gave her a certain swaying grandeur.
Evening wear

exceptionally low sweetheart, square and
round décolleté necklines allowed
women to wear quantities of fine jewelry.
No cleavage was visible as the bust was
suppressed into a monobosom. Thomas, P.W. (2008). La Belle Époque Edwardian Fashion
History. Retrieved from: http://www.fashionera.com/la_belle_epoque_1890-1914_fashion.htm
Edwardian Era 1890 -1914
Women’s Accessories

Gainsborough Hat— velvet, beaver, or
straw hat having a low crown and a broad
brim, trimmed with feathers.
Feathers
 Gloves
 Parasols
 Bags

Thomas, P.W. (2008). La Belle Époque Edwardian Fashion
History. Retrieved from: http://www.fashionera.com/la_belle_epoque_1890-1914_fashion.htm
Edwardian Era 1890 -1914
Think Movies:
Anne of Green Gables
Sherlock Holmes
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