KAREN MILLEN
GOLDEN RULES
KA
- 1 - KM Golden Rules 2009.doc
CONTENTS
SECTION 1 DRESSES Pages
1. STRUCTURED / MAMA MIA SATIN 6 - 8
a) Seams (Main)
b) Hems (Main)
c) Lining Seams
d) Lining Hems
e) Darts
f) Zips
g) Hook and Eye
h) Facings
i) Fusing and Taping
j) Boning
k) Straps
l) Embellishment
m) Hanging Loops
2. BIAS CUT / SOFT 9 - 11
a) Seams (Main)
b) Hems (Main)
c) Lining Seams
d) Lining Hems
e) Darts
f) Zips
g) Hook and Eye
h) Facings
i) Stay Tape
j) Straps
k) Embellishment
l) Hanging Loops
m) Miscellaneous
SECTION 2 SKIRTS Pages
a) Seams (Main) 12 - 16
b) Hems (Main)
c) Lining Seams
d) Lining Hems
e) Darts
f) Zips and Zip Guards
g) Waistbands
h) Hook and Eye
i) Waistband Facings
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j) Pocket Flaps
k) Pockets
l) Welts and Jets
m) Darts
n) Belt Loops
o) Buttons and Buttonholes
p) Vents and Splits
q) Pile Fabrics
r) Embellishment
s) Hanging Loops
SECTION 3 TOPS Pages 1. BIAS CUT / SOFT 17 - 19
a) Seams (Main)
b) Hems (Main)
c) Lining Seams
d) Lining Hems
e) Darts
f) Zips
g) Hook and Eye
h) Facings
i) Stay Tape
j) Straps
k) Embellishment
l) Hanging Loops
m) Miscellaneous
2. STRUCTURED / MAMA MIA SATIN 20 - 22
a) Seams (Main)
b) Hems (Main)
c) Lining Seams
d) Lining Hems
e) Darts
f) Zips
g) Hook and Eye
h) Facings
i) Fusing and Taping
j) Boning
k) Straps
l) Embellishment
m) Hanging Loops
3. SHIRTS / BLOUSES 23 - 24
a) Seams (Main)
b) Hems (Main)
c) Darts
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d) Collars
e) Cuffs
f) Plackets
g) Yokes
h) Topstitching
i) Buttons and Buttonholes
SECTION 4 TROUSERS Pages
a) Seams (Main) 25 - 28
b) Hems (Main)
c) Lining Seams
d) Lining Hems
e) Darts
f) Zips and Zip Guards
g) Waistbands
h) Waistband Facings
i) Pocket Flaps
j) Pockets
k) Welts and Jets
l) Belt Loops
m) Buttons and Buttonholes
n) Hanging Loops
SECTION 5 JACKETS / COATS Pages
a) Seams (Main) 29 - 31
b) Hems (Main)
c) Lining Seams
d) Lining Hems
e) Fusing
f) Darts
g) Collars
h) Cuffs
i) Pocket Flaps
j) Pockets
k) Welts and Jets
l) Buttons and Buttonholes
m) Front Facings
n) Shoulder Pads and Sleeve Head Roll
o) Piping
p) Back Neck Loop
SECTION 6 JERSEY Pages
a) Type of Needle 32 - 36
b) Stitch Type
c) Seams
d) Hems
e) Decorative / Detailed Stitching
f) Binding / Straps
- 4 - KM Golden Rules 2009.doc
g) Darts
h) Tapes
i) Zips
j) Buttons and Poppers
k) Plackets
l) Collars
m) Facings
n) Smocking
o) Belt Loops
p) Hanger Loop Tape
q) Lining
r) Cutting and Laying up
s) Patterns
t) Pressing
u) Packaging
SECTION 7 KNITWEAR Pages
a) Knitting and Fashioning 37 - 40
b) Seams, Linking and Fashioning
c) Trim Finishes
d) Plackets
e) Straps and Ties
f) Zips
g) Hanger Loops
h) Embellishment
i) Buttons, Poppers and Metalwork
j) Button Holes
k) Belt and Belt Loops
l) Linings
m) Crochet
SECTION 6 DIAGRAMS Pages
1. Tack base of zip onto seam allowances 41 - 47
2. Back strap loop around bra ring
3. Seam allowance on strap adjusters
4. Tack zip guard to base of fly
5. Belt loops – stitch down at bottom edge
6. Belt loops – stitch onto top edge
7. Jigger buttonhole position
8. Insert hanging loop into top edge
9. Insert hanging loops into binding
10. Attachment of back straps onto cami
11. Chain loops to hold cami to garment
12. Elastic in hem channel
13. Fly stitching from edge
14. Stepping lining at front hem
15. Back neck ribbon loop
- 5 - KM Golden Rules 2009.doc
DRESSES SECTION 1
Part 1 - STRUCTURED / MAMA MIA SATIN
a) Seams (Main)
• Seam allowances to be 1.0cmm and stitched open for heavy weight fabric
e.g. heavy jacquards, with raw edges overlocked, unless fully bagged out. •
Allowances on seams with invisible zips to be 1.0cm and pressed open. •
Seam allowances on all bagged out edges to be 0.6cm.
• Seam allowance on collar stand to neck seam to be 1.0cm.
• Seam allowance on collar to stand seam to be 0.6cm.
b) Hems (Main)
• Straight hems on medium to heavyweight fabrics to have a 3.0cm hem
allowance, turned once and felled below the overlocked edge.
• Curved hems to have a 2.5cm hem allowance, turned once and felled
below the overlocked edge.
• Hems must be fused on fabrics where felling is visible.
• Bagged out hems to have 4.0cm hem allowance and blind felled •
All felling to be 3.0cm blind felled where possible.
c) Lining Seams
• Seam allowance to be 1.0cm and 5-thread overlocked together. • Allow at
least 1.0cm ease in length above vents or splits in lining. • Side seams to be
chain loop attached to secure when not fully bagged out. • Lining at waist and
hips to be cut 2.0cm bigger than main shell to nothing at underarm, for ease.
d) Lining Hems
• Hems to be bagged out and blind felled wherever possible.
• Hem allowance to be 2.0cm, double turned and stitched at 1.0cm.
e) Darts
• Dart ends to be backstitched to secure seam (not tail ends). Alternatively
factories can use an automatic flat machine to stitch the darts.
• Darts to be stitched 2.0cm passed the drill hole at the point.
• Horizontal bust dart seam allowances to be pressed downwards. •
Vertical dart seam allowances to be pressed towards the sides unless
topstitching dictates otherwise.
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f) Zips
• All zips to be bought to correct lengths. Do not cut down to size. •
Invisible zips to be bought 2.0cm longer than finished zip opening. •
Lining to be bagged out around zips for lined dresses.
• All invisible zips to have a hook and eye attached at the top of the zip on
the inside of the garment.
• Invisible zip areas are to be fused, as fabric dictates.
• Tack invisible zips at the base of zip tape onto one seam allowance of outer
shell only (Diagram 1).
• Add a single notch below zip on main fabric, where the notch indicates the
bottom of the zip opening.
• For lining, add a double notch. Top notch matches the single notch on main
fabric, and lower notch to be 1.0cm lower so lining seam stops 1.0cm below
actual base of zip opening.
• No trims to extend into invisible zip seam, trim must mitre off before – to
avoid thickness into zip.
g) Hook and Eye
• Size 2 hook and eye only to be used.
• Hand stitch hook and eye on the inside of garments at the top of invisible
zips. (This can also be done with a button machine with attachment if
available at factory).
• Hook part to be attached to face inwards onto body.
• For side zips, attach hook to front panel and eye to back panel. •
For CB zips, attach hook to left side and eye to right side as worn.
h) Facings
• Facing edges to be bound if garment is unlined.
• Facings to be understitched.
• Seam allowance for faced neck edges to be 6.0cm.
• Facings to be tacked to outer shell at seams on strapless styles to prevent
facings from rolling out.
i) Fusing and Taping
• Bagged out neck and armhole edges to be taped to specified
measurements using 6.0cm wide stay tape (factory supplies).
• Hems to be fused on fabrics where felling is visible
• Vents and splits to be fused where fabric dictates – only when instructed by a
technologist.
• Fusing for hems is to be double the depth of the hem allowance. When
hem allowance is turned up and stitched, the fusing must not be visible
above the top edge inside the garment.
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j) Boning
• All boning ends must be rounded and covered.
• Boning to start 1.0cm below top neck edges.
• Stitch the lining seams together and attach boning in the centre of the lining
seam allowance.
k) Straps
• Loops for detachable straps to be inserted between lining and facing seams
where appropriate.
• Loops for detachable straps to be attached 1.5cm below top edge on styles
without a facing.
• Straps inserted in to the neckline are to be reinforced by bar tacking the
strap to the facing. (Diagram 2)
• Straps to be cut on the straight grain.
• Back strap loop to finish 2.0cm long (flat). Cut the pattern 6.0cm long
including 1.0cm seam allowance on each end (Diagram 2).
• Adjuster end of straps to be 5.0cm and double turned (Diagram 3)
l) Embellishment
• Beads and sequins must be double knotted / tied off every 3.0cm or 5th
bead. Variations to this must be approved priory to production by the KM
technologist.
• The thread is to be polyester.
• Double thread is to be used to secure the embellishment.
• Thread tension must be correct not to cause cracking.
• The attachment of embellishment is to be vertically down the length of the
garment and not horizontal, unless styling dictates otherwise.
• There must be no floats on the back of the garment more than 1cm long • Tail
ends of threads are to be no longer or shorter than 1.0cm. • Tail ends are to be
pulled through to the reverse side and not appear on the face of the fabric.
• There must be a minimum of 10 spare beads / sequin in a bag per type of
bead / sequin.
• Any manufacturing / embellishment issues are to be raised prior to
production.
• All beads and embellishment must be tested and approved to the 4 point
plan prior to production.
m) Hanging Loops
• Hanging loops are to be inserted between fabric and lining 2.0cm below
underarm on sleeveless styles, or in shoulder seam 2.0cm from neck edge, as
style dictates. Stitched down onto the lining with edge stitching. 88.0cm per
garment (44.0cms on each side) or according to style (Diagram 8). • Hanging
loops may not be required on all styles.
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Part 2 - BIAS CUT / SOFT
a) Seams (Main)
• Seam allowances on all bagged out edges to be 6mm.
• Dresses to have 1.2cm french seams, where possible.
• Where french seams cannot be stitched, lockstitch the panels together and
overlock the raw edges together (mock 5-thread).
• Seam allowances on seams with invisible zips to be 1.2cm and pressed
open.
• Seam allowance on collar stand to neck seam to be 1.0cm.
• Seam allowance on collar to stand seam to be 0.6cm.
• Net / Tulle seams to always be french seamed.
b) Hems (Main)
• Hems on sheer fabrics to be pin hemmed.
• Hems on sheer fabrics can be superlocked if requested by design e.g. frill
hems.
• Straight single stitched hems on lighter weight fabrics to have a 1.2cm
seam allowance, double turned and stitched at 0.6cm
• Curved hems to have a 2.5cm hem allowance and felled.
• Straight hems on lightweight fabrics to have a 3.0cm hem allowance and
felled.
c) Lining Seams
• Seam allowance to be 1.0cm and 5-thread overlocked together. • Lining at
waist and hips to be cut 2.0cm bigger than main shell to nothing at underarm,
for ease.
• Seams allowances on all bagged out edges to be 0.6cm. Lining to be
bagged out at neck, armhole edges, hems and zip.
d) Lining Hems
• For bias cut linings, hem allowance to be 1.0cm, double turned and stitched
at 5mm or pin hemmed.
• For straight cut linings, hem allowance to be 2.0cm, double turned and
stitched at 1.0cm.
• Linings are to finish 2.0cm above the finish hem of the garment, unless
styling dictates otherwise.
e) Darts
• Dart ends to be backstitched to secure seam (not tail ends). Alternatively
factories can use an automatic flat machine to stitch the darts.
• Darts to be stitched 2.0cm passed the drill hole at the point.
• Press bust dart seam allowances downwards.
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• Press vertical dart seam allowances towards the side seams unless
topstitching dictates otherwise.
f) Zips
• Use lightweight zips, where appropriate and ensure the weight of zip is
clearly indicated.
• All zips to be bought to correct lengths. Do not cut down to size. •
Invisible zips to be bought at 2.0cm longer than finished zip opening. •
Lining to be bagged out around zips, for lined dresses.
• All invisible zips to have a hook and eye attached at the top of the zip on
the inside of the garment.
• Invisible zip areas are to be fused, as fabric dictates.
• Tack invisible zips at the base of zip tape onto one seam allowance of outer
shell only (Diagram 1).
• Add a single notch below zip on main fabric, where the notch indicates the
bottom of the zip opening.
• For lining, add a double notch. Top notch matches the single notch on main
fabric, and lower notch to be 1.0cm lower so lining seam stops 1.0cm below
actual base of zip opening.
g) Hook and Eye
• Size 2 hook and eye only to be used.
• Hand stitch hook and eye on the inside of garments at the top of invisible
zips. (This can also be done with a button machine with attachment if
available at factory).
• Hook part to be attached to face inwards onto body.
• For side zips attach hook to front panel and eye to back panel. •
For CB zips attach hook to left side and eye to right side, as worn.
h) Facings
• Facing edges to be bound if garment is unlined.
• Facings to be understitched.
• Facings to be tacked to outer shell at seams.
• Seam allowance for faced neck edge to be 0.6cm.
i) Stay tape
• Bagged out neck and armhole edges to be taped to specified
measurements using 0.6cm wide stay tape. (factory supplies stay tape)
j) Straps
• Straps to be fully bagged out on sheer fabrics to finish 0.8cm wide. •
Straps inserted in to the neckline are to be reinforced by bar tacking the
strap to the facing at front and back. (Diagram 2)
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• Back strap loop to finish 2.0cm long (flat). Cut the pattern 6cm long
including 2cm seam allowance on each end (Diagram 2).
• Adjuster end of straps to be 5.0cm and double turned (Diagram 3).
k) Embellishment
• Beads and sequins must be double knotted / tied off every 3.0cm or 5th
bead. Variations to this must be approved priory to production by the KM
technologist.
• The thread is to be polyester.
• Double thread is to be used to secure the embellishment.
• Thread tension must be correct not to cause cracking.
• The attachment of embellishment is to be vertically down the length of the
garment and not horizontal, unless style dictates otherwise.
• There must be no floats on the back of the garment more than 1.0cm long •
Tail ends of threads are to be no longer or shorter than 1.0cm. • Tail ends are
to be pulled through to the reverse side and not appear on the face of the
fabric.
• There must be a minimum of 10 spare beads / sequin in a bag per type of
bead / sequin.
• Any manufacturing / embellishment issues are to be raised prior to
production.
• All beads and embellishment must be tested and approved to the 4 point
plan prior to production.
l) Hanging Loops
• Hanging loops are to be inserted between fabric and lining 2.0cm below
underarm on sleeveless styles, or in shoulder seam 2.0cm from neck edge, as
style dictates. Stitched down onto the lining with edge stitching. 88.0cm per
garment (44.0cms on each side) or according to style (Diagram 8). • Hanging
loops may not be required on all styles.
m) Miscellaneous
• For all tops and dresses with an inner camisole / slip, attach the camisole /
slip to the main top / dress by making a chain loop which goes around the
strap with a popper so the camisole is detachable, loop is attached to the
centre of the shoulder seam allowance (Diagram 11)
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SKIRTS SECTION 2
a) Seams (Main)
• Seam allowances to be 1.0cm and stitched open for heavyweight fabric e.g.
heavy jacquards, with raw edges overlocked, unless fully bagged out. •
Allowances on seams with invisible zips to be 1.0cm and pressed open. • Bias
skirts to have 1.2cm french seams, where possible
• For bi-stretch seams to be 5-thread seams
• Seam allowances on top waist edge to be 0.8cm, to allow for the fold. •
Net / Tulle seams to always be French seamed.
b) Hems (Main)
• Straight hems on medium to heavyweight fabrics to have a 3.0cm hem
allowance, turned once and felled below the overlocked edge.
• Curved hems to have a 2.5cm hem allowance, turned once and felled
below the overlocked edge.
• Hems must be fused on fabrics where felling is visible.
• Bagged out hems to have 4.0cm hem allowance and blind felled • Hem on
bias cut skirts to have a 1.2cm seam allowance, turned twice and topstitched
at 0.5cm from edge. This can be done in two operations by turning under the
hem once and stitching, then turning the hem again and topstitching at
0.5cm.
• Bias cut skirts can also be finished with a pin hem.
• Bias hems on sheer fabrics can be super locked if requested by design e.g.
frill hems.
• Straight single stitched hems on lighter weight fabrics to have a 1.2cm
seam allowance, double turned and stitched at 6mm
• All felling to be 3.0cm blind felled where possible.
c) Lining Seams
• Seam allowance to be 1.0cm and 5-thread overlocked together. • Allow at
least 1.0cm ease in length above vents or splits in lining. • Side seams to be
chain loop attached to secure when not fully bagged out. • Lining at hips to be
cut 2.0cm bigger than main shell for ease. • Lining waist should measure the
same as outer garment.
• Bias lining seams to be 1.0cm and 5thread overlocked together.
d) Lining Hems
• Hem lining to be bagged out and blind felled wherever possible. • Straight
cut skirts, hem allowance to be 2.0cm, double turned and stitched at 1.0cm.
- 12 - KM Golden Rules 2009.doc
• For bias cut skirts, hem allowance to be 1.0cm, double turned and stitched
at 0.5cm or pin hemmed.
• Linings are to finish 2.0cm above the finished hem of the garment, unless
styling dictates otherwise.
e) Darts
• Dart ends to be backstitched to secure (not tail ends). Alternatively factories
can use an automatic flat machine to stitch darts.
• Darts to be stitched 2.0cm passed the drill hole at the point.
• Press dart seam allowances towards side seams unless topstitching
dictates otherwise.
f) Zips and Zip Guards
• All zips to be bought lengths. Do not cut zips down to size.
• Invisible zips to be bought 2.0cm longer than finished zip opening • All
invisible zips to have a hook and eye attached at the top of the zip on the
inside of the garment.
• Invisible zip areas are to be fused, as fabric dictates.
• Invisible zips to be bagged out with lining where ever possible. • All
garments with a fly front must have a fused zip guard. Zip guard to be
bagged out with folded lining piece for flat zips.
• Fly piece to be fused and bound on the curved edge with satin binding. •
Stitch zip guard to fly at base of curve (Diagram 4).
• Zip guard extensions on skirts with waistbands should measure:- •
4.0cm for waistbands with jigger buttons and tab extensions
• 6.0cm for waistbands with jigger button and no tab extension.
• French fly at 6.0cm
• Invisible zips to finish at waist edge.
• No trims to extend into invisible zip seam must mitre off before to avoid
thickness into zip.
g) Waistbands
• Facings on curved waistbands are to be bound with satin binding on the
bottom lip edge.
• Waistbands are to have 2 hook and bar fasteners (small size) for
waistbands over 3.0cm deep.
• Waistbands under 3.0cm deep are to have 1 hook and bar fastener (small
size). Position the hook and bar close to the top edge to hold the waistband
edge in position.
• All waistbands with hook and bar fastening are to have a jigger button. • Add
fusible canvas on top right front waistband to prevent impressions from hook
and bar.
• Seam allowance at side seams of waistband to be 1.0cm and pressed
open.
• Waist edge to be taped
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h) Hook and Eye
• Size 2 hook and eye only to be used.
• Hand stitch hook and eye on the inside of garments at the top of invisible
zips. (This can also be done with a button machine with attachment if
available at factory).
• Hook part to be attached to face inwards onto body.
• For side zips, attach hook to front panel and eye to back panel. •
For CB zips, attach hook to left side and eye to right side as worn.
i) Waistband Facings
• Standard finished facing depth to be 6.0cm depending on style. •
Facings are to be under-stitched at the top edge.
• For unlined skirts, the raw edge of facing is to be bound with satin binding. •
Facings to be fused and have a 0.2cm roll at top edge and 0.2cm off at lower
edge at side seam (total 0.8cm smaller total on lower edge).
j) Pocket Flaps
• To have lining on the underside, which is 0.2cm smaller than top flap all
around bagged out
• Underflaps to be in matching lining where possible, unless otherwise
requested by design.
• Fuse both top flap and underflap where necessary.
• Seam allowance on bagged out edge to be 0.6cm.
• Seam allowance on top edge to be 1.0cm.
k) Pockets
• Pocket mouth of jets and welts to be stitched closed, leaving 1.0cm open at
both ends, with the exception of pockets with button closure which are to be
stitched closed either side of the buttonhole.
• Pocket bags for front side pockets to go into CF seam on casual skirts. •
Pocket bags to be fully bagged out, unless concealed by lining. If concealed
by lining, pocket bag edges to be 5 thread overlocked. • All pocket bags to be
cut in lining with a facing in self-fabric, to finish 6.0cm deep.
• Add fusing strip behind welt / jet pocket opening on the inside to finish
3.0cm deep and 2.0cm longer than finished pocket length.
• Pocket bags to be cut 4.0cm wider than finished pocket length on welt / jet
pockets (2.0cm allowance each side of opening).
• For pockets with button fastening add an extension to the fusing piece to
support attachment of button.
• Side pockets to be back-tacked at the top and bottom.
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l) Welts and Jets
• Welts and jets are to be fully fused. The standard pattern size for one jet or
welt 7.5cm x 16.0cm.
m) Belt Loops
• All belt loops to be bagged out or made with a folder.
• Belt loops at waistband are to be inserted into top and bottom edge of
waistband, and stitched down 1.0cm below waistband on inside of loop
(Diagram 5). On casual styles only the bottom end of belt loop needs to be
inserted into the waistband seam.
• If belt loops cannot be inserted into the top edge (due to saddle stitching for
example), then stitch the loop down onto the waistband inside the loop to
finish level with the top edge (Diagram 6).
• Belt loops to be cut on straight grain.
• Cut pattern 4.0cm wide to finish with a 1.0cm wide loop. Belt loops to finish
1.2cm wide on denim and casual styles.
• Allow at least 1.0cm extra length per loop.
• Allow 0.5cm extra in loop length for belts.
n) Buttons and Buttonholes
• Buttonholes for jiggers are to be positioned horizontally (Diagram 7). •
Stitch keyhole (fishtail) buttonhole unless otherwise indicated. • Buttons
should always be attached through two layers of fabric, one of which is
fused, except jiggers.
• Shank of button to be whipped.
o) Vents and Splits
• Vents and splits to be fused.
• Long vents and splits should be felled back.
• Corners of vents / splits to be mitred at hem.
• Turn-back on vents / splits to finish at 4.0cm.
• Vents and splits are to be bagged out with lining.
• Invisible bartack top of splits to reinforce.
p) Pile Fabrics
• Pile to run upwards on velvet and cord (smooth up).
• Pile to run downwards on felted fabrics e.g. fabric with nap (smooth down).
q) Embellishment
• Beads and sequins must be double knotted / tied off every 3.0cm or 5th
bead. Variations to this must be approved priory to production by the KM
technologist.
- 15 - KM Golden Rules 2009.doc
• The thread is to be polyester.
• Double thread is to be used to secure the embellishment.
• Thread tension must be correct not to cause cracking.
• The attachment of embellishment is to be vertically down the length of the
garment and not horizontal, unless style dictates otherwise.
• There must be no floats on the back of the garment more than 1cm long • Tail
ends of threads are to be no longer or shorter than 1.0cm. • Tail ends are to be
pulled through to the reverse side and not appear on the face of the fabric.
• There must be a minimum of 10 spare beads / sequin in a bag per type of
bead / sequin.
• Any manufacturing / embellishment issues are to be raised prior to
production.
• All beads and embellishment must be tested and approved to the 4 point
plan prior to production.
r) Hanging Loops
• Hanging loops to be inserted into waist facing side seam, 2.0cm below the
finished edge of the waist. (Diagram 8).
• For straight waistbands and waistbands up to 5.0cm deep, hanging loops
are to be inserted into satin binding and stitched down onto facings approx.
3.0cm from top edge (Diagram 9).
• KM hanging loops for skirts are cut at 28.0cm with the loop to finish 13.0cm
long.
• Hanging loops on zip side to be attached on the back of the garment, away
from the zip.
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TOPS SECTION 3
Part 1 - BIAS CUT / SOFT
a) Seams (Main)
• Seam allowances on all bagged out edges to be 0.6cm.
• Tops to have 1.2cm french seams, where possible.
• Where French seams cannot be stitched, lockstitch the panels together and
then overlock the raw edges together (mock 5 thread).
• For fully bagged out / fully enclosed georgette tops, seam allowances at
sides are to be 1.0cm, with seams lockstitched together then pressed either
open or towards the back of the garment.
• Net / Tulle seams to always be french seamed.
b) Hems (Main)
• Hems on sheer fabrics to be pin hemmed.
• Hems on sheer fabrics can be superlocked, if requested by design e.g. frill
hems.
c) Lining Seams
• Seam allowance to be 1.0cm and 5 thread overlocked together for straight
cut lining.
• Bias cut lining is to be 4 thread overlocked together.
• Lining at waist and hips to be cut 2.0cm bigger than main shell to nothing at
underarm, for ease.
• Seams allowances on all bagged out edges to be 0.6cm.
• Lining to be bagged out at neck and armhole edges, 0.2cm smaller for roll.
d) Lining Hems
• For bias cut linings, hem allowance to be 1.0cm, double turned and stitched
at 0.5cm or pin hemmed.
• For straight cut linings, hem allowance to be 2.0cm double turned and
stitched at 1.0cm.
• Linings are to finish 2.0cm above the finish hem of the garment, unless
styling dictates otherwise.
e) Darts
• Dart ends to be backstitched to secure seam (not tail ends). Alternatively
factories can use an automatic flat machine to stitch the darts.
• Darts to be stitched 2.0cm beyond the drill hole at the point.
• Press horizontal bust dart seam allowance downwards.
- 17 - KM Golden Rules 2009.doc
• Press vertical dart seam allowance towards the side seam unless
topstitching dictates otherwise.
f) Zips
• Use lightweight zips, where appropriate and ensure the weight of zip is
clearly indicated.
• All zips to be bought to correct lengths. Do not cut down to size. • Invisible
zips to be bought at 2.0cm longer than actual finished zip opening. • Lining to
be bagged out around zips for lined tops.
• All invisible zips to have a hook and eye attached at the top of the zip on
the inside of the garment.
• Invisible zip areas are to be fused, where fabric dictates.
• Tack invisible zips at the base of zip tape, on one side only, onto seam
allowances of outer shell only (Diagram 1).
• For all invisible zips that open at the hem edge, allow for a 5.0cm closed
seam between the end of the zip and the top edge of the garment. • No
trims to be inserted into zip – trim must mitre off before to avoid thickness
into zip.
g) Hook and Eye
• Size 2 hook and eye only to be used.
• Hand stitch a hook and eye on the inside of garments at the top of invisible
zips. (This can also be done with a button machine with attachment if
available at factory).
• Hook part to be attached to face inwards onto body.
• For side zips, attach hook to front panel and eye to back panel. •
For CB zips, attach hook to left side and eye to right side as worn.
h) Facings
• Facing edges to be bound if garment is unlined.
• Facings to be understitched.
• Facings to be tacked to outer shell at seams.
• Seam allowance for faced neck edge to be 0.6cm.
i) Stay tape
• Bagged out neck and armhole edges to be taped to specified
measurements using 0.6cm wide stay tape (factory supplies stay
tape).
j) Straps
• Straps to be fully bagged out on sheer fabrics to finish 0.8cm wide. •
Straps inserted in to the neckline are to be reinforced by bar tacking the
strap to the facing at front and back. (Diagram 2)
• Back strap loop to finish 2.0cm long (flat). Cut the pattern 6.0cm long
including 2.0cm seam allowance on each end (Diagram 2).
- 18 - KM Golden Rules 2009.doc
• Adjuster end of straps to be 5.0cm and double turned (Diagram 3).
k) Embellishment
• Beads and sequins must be double knotted / tied off every 3.0cm or 5th
bead. Variations to this must be approved priory to production by the KM
technologist.
• The thread is to be polyester.
• Double thread is to be used to secure the embellishment.
• Thread tension must be correct not to cause cracking.
• The attachment of embellishment is to be vertical down the length of the
garment and not horizontal, unless a style dictates otherwise.
• There must be no floats on the back of the garment more than 1cm long • Tail
ends of threads are to be no longer or shorter than 1cm. • Tail ends are to be
pulled through to the reverse side and not appear on the face of the fabric.
• There must be a minimum of 10 spare beads / sequin in a bag per type of
bead / sequin.
• Any manufacturing / embellishment issues are to be raised prior to
production.
• All beads and embellishment must be tested and approved to the 4 point
plan prior to production.
l) Hanging Loops
• Hanging loops are to be inserted between fabric and lining 2.0cm below
underarm, on sleeveless styles, and stitched down onto the lining with edge
stitching. 88.0cm per garment (44.0cms on each side) (Diagram 8). •
Hanging loops may not be required on all styles.
m) Miscellaneous
• For all tops and dresses with an inner camisole / slip, attach the camisole /
slip to the main top / dress by making a chain loop which goes around the
strap with a popper so the camisole is detachable, loop is attached to the
centre of the shoulder seam allowance (Diagram 11)
- 19 - KM Golden Rules 2009.doc
Part 2 - STRUCTURED / MAMA MIA SATIN
a) Seams (Main)
• Seam allowances to be 1.0cm and stitched open for heavyweight fabric e.g.
heavy jacquards with raw edges overlocked, unless fully bagged out. •
Allowances on seams with invisible zips to be 1.0cm and pressed open. •
Seam allowances on all bagged out edges to be 0.6cm.
• Seam allowance on collar stand to neck seam to be 1.0cm.
• Seam allowance on collar to stand seam to be 0.6cm.
b) Hems (Main)
• Straight hems on medium to heavyweight fabrics to have a 3.0cm hem
allowance, turned once and felled below the overlocked edge.
• Curved hems to have a 2.5cm hem allowance, turned once and felled
below the overlocked edge.
• Hems to be fused on fabrics where felling is visible
• Bagged out hems to have 4.0cm hem allowance and blind felled. • For
styles with splits and vents, the hem must be mitred at the corners. • All
felling to be 3.0cm blind felled where possible.
c) Lining Seams
• Seam allowance to be 1.0cm and 5-thread overlocked together. • Allow
at least 1.0cm minimum of ease in length above vents or splits in lining.
d) Lining Hems
• Hem allowance to be 2.0cm, double turned and stitched at 1.0cm. •
Hems to be bagged out and blind felled wherever possible.
• For bagged out hems, lining to be cut to allow at least 2.0cm ease to main
shell.
e) Darts
• Dart ends to be backstitched to secure seam (not tail ends). Alternatively
factories can use an automatic flat machine to stitch the darts.
• Darts to be stitched 2.0cm beyond the drill hole at the point.
• Horizontal bust dart seam allowance to be pressed downwards. • Vertical
dart seam allowances to be pressed towards the side seam unless
topstitching indicates other wise.
f) Zips
• All zips to be bought to correct lengths. Do not cut down to size. •
Invisible zips to be bought at 2.0cm longer than finished zip opening. •
Linings to be bagged out around zips for lined tops
- 20 - KM Golden Rules 2009.doc
• All invisible zips to have a hook and eye attached at the top of the zip on
the inside of the garment.
• Invisible zip areas are to be fused where fabric dictates.
• Tack invisible zips at the base of zip tape onto one seam allowances of
outer shell only (Diagram 1).
• For all invisible zips that open at the hem edge, allow for a 3.0cm closed
seam between the end of the zip and the underarm of the garment. •
Corsets to fasten with an open ended zip.
• No trims to be inserted into zip – trim must mitre off before to avoid
thickness into zip.
g) Hook and Eye
• Size 2 hook and eye only to be used.
• Hand stitch a hook and eye on the inside of garments at the top of invisible
zips at the underarm. (This can also be done with a button machine with
attachment if available at factory).
• Hook part to be attached to face inwards onto body.
• For side zips attach hook to front panel and eye to back panel. •
For CB zips attach hook to left side and eye to right side, as worn.
h) Facings
• Facing edges to be bound if garment is unlined.
• Facings to be understitched.
• Facings to be tacked to outer shell at seams to prevent facings from rolling
out.
• Seam allowance for faced neck edges to be 0.6cm
i) Fusing and Taping
• Bagged out neck and armhole edges to be taped to specified
measurements using 0.6cm wide stay tape (factory supplies stay tape) •
All corsets and bustiers are to be block fused.
• Hems to be fused on fabrics where felling is visible.
• Vents and splits to be fused where fabric dictates – only when instructed by a
technologist.
• Fusing for hems is to be double the depth of the hem allowance. When
hem allowance is turned up and stitched, the fusing must not be visible
above the top edge inside the garment.
j) Boning
• All boning ends must be rounded and covered.
• Boning to start 1.0cm below top neck edges.
• For loose hems, boning to finish 1.0cm from finished lining hem, depending
on the length of the top.
- 21 - KM Golden Rules 2009.doc
• For bagged out hems (with or without hem facing), boning to finish 0.5cm
from finished hem edge of main shell.
• Stitch the lining seams together and attach boning in the centre of the lining
seam allowance.
k) Straps
• Loops for detachable straps to be inserted between lining and facing seams
where appropriate.
• Loops for detachable straps to be attached 1.5cm below top edge on styles
without a facing.
• Straps inserted in to the neckline are to be reinforced by bar tacking the
strap to the facing. (Diagram 2)
• Straps to be cut on the straight grain.
• Back strap loop to finish 2.0cm long (flat). Cut the pattern 6.0cm long
including 2.0cm seam allowance on each end (Diagram 2).
• Adjuster end of straps to be 5.0cm and double turned (Diagram 3)
l) Embellishment
• Beads and sequins must be double knotted/ tied off every 3.0cm or 5th
bead. Variations to this must be approved priory to production by the KM
technologist.
• The thread is to be polyester.
• Double thread is to be used to secure the embellishment.
• Thread tension must be correct not to cause cracking.
• The attachment of embellishment is to be vertically down the length of the
garment and not horizontal unless styles dictates otherwise.
• There must be no floats on the back of the garment more than 1.0cm long •
Tail ends of threads are to be no longer or shorter than 1.0cm. • Tail ends are
to be pulled through to the reverse side and not appear on the face of the
fabric.
• There must be a minimum of 10 spare beads / sequin in a bag per type of
bead / sequin.
• Any manufacturing / embellishment issues are to be raised prior to
production.
• All beads and embellishment must be tested and approved to the 4 point
plan prior to production.
m) Hanging Loops
• Hanging loops are to be inserted between fabric and lining 2.0cm below
underarm on sleeveless styles, or in shoulder seam 2.0cm from neck edge, as
style dictates. Stitched down onto the lining with edge stitching. 88.0cm per
garment (44.0cms on each side) or according to style (Diagram 8). • Hanging
loops may not be required on all styles.
- 22 - KM Golden Rules 2009.doc
Part 3 - SHIRTS / BLOUSES
a) Seams (Main)
• Tops to have 1.2cm french seams, where possible. (Always on white) •
Where french seams cannot be stitched, lockstitch the panels together and
then overlock the raw edges together (mock 5-thread).
• Seams can be 5-thread overlocked, if agreed by Technologist. •
Seam allowances on collar stand to neck seam to be 1.0cm.
• Seam allowances on collar to stand seam to be 0.6cm.
• Sleeves are to be inserted into the armhole on the round in a full circle.
Underarm seam and side seam are to be stitched first separately before
inserting sleeves.
b) Hems (Main)
• Small double turned pin hem 0.6cm seam allowance stitched to 0.3cm –
unless specified by design.
c) Darts
• Dart ends to be backstitched to secure seam (not tail ends). Alternatively
factories can use an automatic flat machine to stitch the darts.
• Darts to be stitched 2.0cm beyond the drill hole at the point.
• Horizontal bust dart seam allowance to be pressed downwards. • Vertical
dart seam allowances to be pressed towards the side seam, unless
topstitching dictates otherwise.
d) Collars
• Fuse the top and under collars.
• Fuse both sides of collar stand (top and bottom).
e) Cuffs
• Cuffs to be fully bagged out.
• For cuffs on the fold fully block fuse.
• Bagged out edges to have a 0.6cm seam allowance.
• Cuff to sleeve seam to have a 1cm seam allowance.
• Cuff wrap to finish 2.0cm.
f) Plackets
• Placket seam allowances to be fully enclosed.
• Placket width depends on design requirements, button size etc. •
Placket to front edge seam to have a 1.0cm seam allowance.
- 23 - KM Golden Rules 2009.doc
g) Yokes
• All yokes are to be doubled and fully enclosed.
h) Top - Stitching
• Topstitching to have 8 - 10 stitches per 2.5cm
i) Buttons and Buttonholes
• Buttons should always be attached through two layers of fabric, one of
which is fused.
• Buttonholes must be lockstitched.
- 24 - KM Golden Rules 2009.doc
TROUSERS SECTION 4 SECTION 3
a) Seams (Main)
• Trousers to have 1.0cm open seams with raw edges 3-thread overlocked.
Press the seam open.
• For topstitched or saddle stitched seams, the seams are to be stitched
open but pressed together, to support the stitch detail.
• For 1.0cm wide topstitched or saddle stitched seams increase the seam
allowance to 1.5cm.
• Front and back rise seams to have 1.0cm seam allowance and to be
double stitched.
• Waistband to trouser seam allowance to be 1.0cm.
• Seam allowance on top edge of waistband to be 0.6cm to allow for the
folded edge.
• Seam allowance at side seams of waistband to be 1.0cm and pressed
open.
b) Hems (Main)
• Hem allowance to be 3.0cm turned once and felled below the overlocked
edge.
• Lockstich secured at side seam in the groove of the seam.
c) Lining Seams
• Seam allowance to be 1.0cm and 5 thread overlocked together. • Lining to
have 0.5cm extra allowance on front and back leg at side seams to nothing
at waist, to allow for ease.
• Lining to have 0.5cm extra allowance on front and back at inside leg to
nothing at rises, on fully lined trousers.
• Lining waist should measure the same as outer garment.
• Lining low hip to be 2.0cm bigger than main on fully lined trousers.
d) Lining Hems
• Hem allowance to be 2.0cm, double turned and stitched at 1.0cm. • For ½
lined trousers finish hem of lining 50cm up from hem of main. • For fully
lined trousers hems to finish 2.0cm above finished hem of main.
e) Darts
• Dart ends to be backstitched to secure (not tail ends). Alternatively,
factories can use an automatic flat machine to stitch the darts.
• Darts to be stitched 2.0cm beyond the drill hole point.
- 25 - KM Golden Rules 2009.doc
• Press dart seam allowances towards side seams unless topstitching
dictates otherwise.
f) Zips and Zip Guards
• All zips to be bought lengths. Do not cut down to size.
• All trousers with a fly front must have a fused zip guard. Zip guard to be
bagged out with folded lining pieces.
• Invisible zip seam allowances should be fused, where appropriate. •
Zip guard extensions on trousers with waistbands should measure:- •
4.0cm for waistbands with jigger buttons and tab extensions
• 6.0cm for waistbands with jigger button and no tab extension. •
French fly at 6.0cm.
• Fly piece to be fused and bound on the curved edge with satin binding. •
Tack zip guard to fly at base of curve (Diagram 4).
• Stitch fly 2.5cm from CF edge (Diagram 12) unless design dictates
otherwise.
• For fly-fronted stylesLining is to be bagged out around fly if the trouser is fully lined Lining to be
mounted with main trouser at fly if front lined only. • No trim to extend into
invisible zip seam, must mitre off before to avoid thickness into zip.
g) Waistbands
• Waistband to trouser seam allowance to be 1.0cm.
• Seam allowance on top edge of waistband to be 0.6cm, to allow for the
folded edge.
• Waistbands are to have 2 hook and bar fasteners (small size) for
waistbands over 3.0cm deep.
• Waistbands under 3.0cm deep are to have 1 hook and bar fastener (small
size). Position the hook and bar close to the top edge to hold the waistband
edge in position.
• All waistbands with hook and bar fastening are to have a jigger button. • Add
fusible canvas on top right front waistband to prevent impressions from hook
and bar.
• On white / cream fabrics an extra piece of fusing is to be added instead of
fusible canvas.
• Waist edges to be taped.
• Seam allowance at side seams of waistband to be 1.0cm and pressed
open.
h) Waistband Facings
• Facing edge to be bound with satin binding.
• Facings are to be understitched 0.2cm from the top edge.
• Facings to be fully fused.
- 26 - KM Golden Rules 2009.doc
i) Pocket Flaps
• To have lining on the underside, this is 0.2cm smaller than the top flap all
around bagged out edges.
• Underflaps to be in matching lining where possible, unless otherwise
requested by design.
• Fuse both top flap and under flap where necessary.
• Seam allowance on bagged out edge of pocket flaps to be 0.6cm. •
Seam allowance on top edge of pocket flaps to be 1.0cm.
j) Pockets
• Pocket bags for front side pockets to go into CF seam.
• Top pocket bags to extend into the waist seam.
• Pocket bags to be fully bagged out, unless concealed by lining. If concealed
by lining, pocket bag edges to be 5thread overlocked. • All pocket bags to be
cut in lining with a facing in self-fabric to finish 6.0cm deep.
• Add fusing strip behind welt / jet pocket opening on the inside to finish
3.0cm deep and 2.0cm longer than finished pocket length.
• For pockets with button fastening add an extension to the fusing piece to
support attachment of button.
• Side pockets to be back-tacked at top and bottom.
• Back pocket position to finish 5.5cm from CB rise seam – unless design
feature.
• Back pockets are to be parallel with waistband seam – unless design
feature
• Centralise the back pocket position over the back dart – unless design
feature.
k) Welts and Jets
• Jet and welt pieces are to be fully fused.
• Standard jet/ welt pocket width is 12.0cm, unless advised by design •
The standard pattern size for one jet or welt is 7.5cm x 16.0cm. • Jets and
welt pocket openings are to be stitched closed, leaving 1.0cm
open at both ends, with the exception of pockets with button fastening
which are to be stitched closed either side of the buttonhole.
l) Belt Loops
• All belt loops to be bagged out.
• Belt loops at waistband are to be inserted into top and bottom edge of
waistband, and stitched down 1.0cm below waistband on inside of loop
(Diagram 5).
• If belt loops cannot be inserted into the top edge (due to saddle stitching for
example), then stitch the loop down onto the waistband inside the loop to
finish level with the top edge (Diagram 6).
• Belt loops to be cut on straight grain.
- 27 - KM Golden Rules 2009.doc
• Cut pattern 4.0cm wide for loops to finish 1.0cm wide. Belt loops to finish
1.2cm wide on denim and casual styles.
• Standard belt loop width is 1.0cm unless otherwise stated.
• Allow at least 1.0cm extra length per loop.
• Allow 0.5cm extra in loop length for belts.
m) Buttons and Buttonholes
• Buttonholes for jiggers are to be positioned horizontally (Diagram 7) •
Stitch keyhole (fishtail) buttonhole unless otherwise indicated. • Buttons
should always be attached through two layers of fabric, one of which is
fused.
• Shank of button to be whipped.
n) Hanging Loops
• Hanging loops to be inserted into waist facing side seam, 2.0cm below the
finished edge of the waist (Diagram 8).
• For straight waistbands and waistbands up to 5.0cm deep, hanging loops
are to be inserted into satin binding and stitched down onto facings approx.
3.0cm from top edge (Diagram 9).
• Hanging loops for trousers are cut at 28.0cm with the loop to finish 13.0cm
long.
- 28 - KM Golden Rules 2009.doc
JACKETS & COATS SECTION 5 SECTION 3
a) Seams (Main)
• Seam allowance to be 1.0cm and pressed open, for all main seams. •
Seam allowance on collar, rever and front edges to be 0.6cm.
• Collar stand to neck seam allowance to be 1.0cm.
• Collar stand to collar seam allowance to be 0.6cm.
b) Hems (Main)
• Straight hem allowance to be 4.0cm turned once and felled.
• Shaped hems to have a separate facing that is under stitched and felled.
c) Lining Seams
• Seam allowance to be 1.0cm and pressed open.
• Back lining to be attached to a back neck facing, 7.0cm deep at centre back,
4.0cm at shoulder.
• Front lining to have a bust pleat at the point where it joins the front facing. •
Lining to have the following amount added into the length of body and sleeve
for ease: • Add 1.0cm – 2.0cm of ease in length above a vent or split. Amount
depends on overall length of coat / jacket.
• Add 3.0cm of ease in length at hem of body and sleeves, which
folds into a pleat.
• Lining to be attached at underarm and shoulder with woven tape or a strip of
lining.
• On jackets or coats with top stitching or saddle stitching detail around the
front edges and front hem, the lining hem is to finish straight (stepped up
from the hem of main) with corners bagged out so stitch detail does not
catch onto lining (Diagram 13).
d) Lining Hems
• Lining hem allowance to be 1.0cm.
e) Fusing
• All body pieces are to be block fused on fully lined jackets / coats. • On white
/ cream colours or lightweight fabrics, sleeves are to be fully fused.
• Top collar, undercollar and both collar stands are to be fused.
• Armholes, back neck, front neck, lapels and shoulder to have 1.8cm wide dry
support (non-fusible interlining) stitched into the seams.
- 29 - KM Golden Rules 2009.doc
f) Darts
• Dart ends to be backstitched to secure (not tail ends). Alternatively factories
can use an automatic flat machine to stitch the darts.
• Darts to be stitched 2.0cm beyond the drill hole point.
• Press vertical dart seam allowances towards side seams.
• Press bust dart seam allowances downwards.
g) Collars
• Top collar and under collar are to be fully fused.
• Top collar to be cut on straight grain.
• Top collar to be at least 0.3cm larger than undercollar on outer leaf edge. •
Undercollar to be on the bias grain.
• Undercollar to have a CB seam – only if specified.
• Collars are to be understitched on undercollar side stopping 3.0cm from
collar points.
• Tack collar and lapel together at collar notch, where possible.
h) Cuffs
• Cuff openings to have grown-on shaped facings.
• Cuff openings are to be fully functional with button fastening, depending on
design requirements.
• For cuffs without opening fell hems all the way round.
• For cuffs with opening fell hems as close to the opening as possible (within
3.0cm of split).
i) Pocket Flaps
• To have lining on the underside, which is 0.2cm smaller than top flap all
around bagged out edges, dependant on style and assessed by
technologist.
• Under flaps to be in matching lining, where possible, unless otherwise
requested by design.
• Fuse top flap and underflap.
• Seam allowance on bagged out edge of pocket flaps to be 0.6cm. •
Seam allowance on top edge of pocket flaps to be 1.0cm.
j) Pockets
• Top pocket bag to be in self-fabric.
• Under pocket bag to be in lining.
• Side pockets to be back-tacked at top and bottom.
• Pocket bags to be cut 4.0cm wider than finished jet / welt pocket length
(2.0cm allowance each side of opening).
• Add fusing strip behind pocket opening on the inside to finish 3.0cm deep
and 2.0cm longer than finished jet / welt pocket length.
- 30 - KM Golden Rules 2009.doc
k) Welts and Jets
• Jet and welt pieces are to be fully fused.
• Jets and welts to be cut 4.0cm wider than finished pocket length (2.0cm
allowance each side of opening).
• Jets and welts to be cut 3.2cm wide to finish 6mm wide (1.0cm seam
allowance either side).
• Jets and welt pocket openings are to be stitched closed, leaving 1.5cm
open at both ends.
• Standard jet/ welt pocket length is 10.5cm, unless advised by design.
l) Buttons and Buttonholes
• Stitch keyhole (fishtail) buttonholes, unless otherwise specified by design. •
Jet/Bound buttonholes cut pattern piece 6.5cm wide and allow 8.0cm per
buttonhole.
• Buttons should always be attached through two layers of fabric, one of
which is fused.
• Shank of button to be whipped.
• Use gimp thread on buttonholes.
m) Front Facings
• Front facings must be felled back.
• Front facings are to be under stitched on facing side.
n) Shoulder Pads and Sleeve Head Roll
• Shoulder pads and sleeve head roll to be attached to armhole using a
sleeve insertion machine.
• Shoulder pads are to be attached into the neck seam with woven tape or a
strip of lining to hold the pad in position.
• Canvas part of sleeve head roll to be positioned against the front sleeve with
the sleeve head roll behind. Canvas may not be required on all sleeve
head roll qualities.
o) Back Neck Loop
• For coats a metal chain loop is required (to be confirmed by design). • Metal
chain loops are to be attached through 0.5cm wide bagged out lining loops.
Lining loops are then inserted into the back neck seam. Lining loops are to be
positioned 7.5cm apart (Diagram 14).
- 31 - KM Golden Rules 2009.doc
JERSEY SECTION 6 SECTION 3
a) Type of Needle - Ball point
The ball point needle has been specifically designed for knit and elastic fabrics and
has a "rounded" point rather than a sharp point. This needle pushes between the
fabric yarns rather than "cutting through" the yarns.
Unlike many other needles, the ballpoint needle will not cause runs in knit fabrics.
This makes it the ideal needle for jersey / knit fabrics. The danger with using other
types of needles on jersey garments is that the needle will cut threads and cause
ladders in the fabric.
b) Stitch type
Chain stitch Lock stitch
Zig zag stitch
- 32 - KM Golden Rules 2009.doc
3 thread overlock 4 thread safety stitch overlock 5 thread chain stitch
overlock
Twin needle coverstitch Top and bottom coverstitch
c) Seams
• No lock stitch
• Seam allowances to be 4-thread or 5 thread overlocked and pressed
towards back of garment – fabric dependant.
• Shoulder seams to be 4-thread overlocked with framilon.
• Bar tack side seams down at hem / cuff / armholes when edge finishes are
raw.
• Bar tack shoulder seams down at armhole and neck when finishing edges
are raw.
- 33 - KM Golden Rules 2009.doc
• Sequence of operations - Side seam and underarm seams to be closed
and then hemmed.
• All stitching to overlap min 2.5cm when closing armholes, hems and cuffs •
All holding stitches to be cracked.
• Depending on fabric and style, framilon is to be attached to the inside of
neck and armhole edges (on sleeveless styles). Cut framilon to correct
lengths.
• Attach framilon using a 4-thread overlock with safety stitch.
d) Hems
• Sequence of operations - Side seam and underarm seams to be closed
and then hemmed.
• Hem method to be confirmed at design stage – felled / chain stitch / zig zag /
twin needle coverstitch (0.3cm / 0.6cm) / decorative – overlock / baby /
super lock raw etc.
• Straight twin needle hems to be turned once before stitching.
• Straight single needle hems to be turned twice before stitching. •
Curved hems to be 3-thread over locked before turning and stitching. •
Hem allowance to be 2.0cm unless otherwise specified otherwise. • Lining
hem allowance to be 2.0cm and twin needle cover stitched.
e) Decorative and Detailed stitching
• No visible joins along seam.
• Coverage to be consistent.
f) Binding and Straps
• To be chain stitched / twin needle coverstitched.
• Straps to be cut on the straight of grain.
• Straps to be secured in with neck binding on the inside. Fold strap up and
stitch into place. (Diagram 10)
• Cami’s - Straps to be re-enforced with tape – Jersey t-shirt styles to use
framilon unless otherwise stated.
• Detachable / adjustable straps to be attached with bra ring and adjusters at
back of garment.
• Straps to be adjusted to 5.0cm.
• Ends of straps and ties to be enclosed and stitched.
• Ribbon ends to be heat sealed.
• Dresses – straps to be re-enforced with kholar tape.
• Long dresses – stretch of the fabric to be pressed out.
g) Darts
• Use a chain stitch machine to stitch darts to allow for stretch and then
lockstitch the ends to secure the chain stitching.
• Press bust darts seam allowances downwards on horizontal darts. •
Press vertical dart seam allowances towards the side seams.
- 34 - KM Golden Rules 2009.doc
h) Tapes
Types of tape to be used
• Kholar tape – stretch
• Framilon - stretch
• Rayon tape – no stretch
Open necklines – rayon tape to be used and cut to the pattern measurement.
Armholes – Kholar / rayon / framilon to be used, fabric dependant. Stretch
tapes to be cut 1.0cm shorter than pattern.
i) Zips
• To finish at the top hip or higher – styling dependant – is a zip really. •
Light weight mesh only to use in jersey garments.
• Only one tail end of zipper tape to be stitched down.
• All zips to be bought lengths. Do cut to size and approved branding. •
Invisible zip seam allowances to be fused where appropriate.
j) Buttons and Poppers
• Buttons, poppers and eyelets to be attached through two layers of fabric,
one of which is fused.
k) Plackets
• Plackets to be bagged out on inside and outside of garment. l)
Collars
• Collars to be bagged out at neck curve.
• Top collars to be fused. Under collars should not be fused.
• Both collar stands to be fused.
m) Facings
• All facings to be secured at seams where appropriate.
• Facings to be under stitched.
n) Smocking
• Smocking elastic ends to be reinforced at side seam.
o) Belt Loops
• End of chain belt loops to be attached at same position and inserted into
side seam. Bar tack at side seam allowance for security.
- 35 - KM Golden Rules 2009.doc
p) Hanger loop tape
• Long dresses - Hanger loop tape to be attached at the waist seam and
tacked at underarm to take the pressure of the straps.
q) Lining
• For all jersey / mesh tops with an inner cami, attach the cami to the main
top by making a chain loop, which goes around the cami strap with a
popper so is detachable, and is attached to the centre of the shoulder
seam allowance. Or fabric loop with popper. (Diagram 11)
• Lining seams to be 4 thread over locked closed.
• Linings are to finish 2.0cm above the finished hem of the garment unless
style dictates.
• Linings on bias cut garments to be left loose around zip area. r)
Cutting and Laying up
• All fabrics to be relaxed min 12 hours before laying up
s) Patterns
• Ensure sufficient seams to avoid notching or ‘V’ shapes being cut in to the
fabric.
• Facings and linings not to mirror the outer to be as simple as possible. t)
Pressing
• Where studs / poppers / buttons are attached to garments please ensure
when pressing that garments are pressed single layered or with board
between to prevent impression marks.
u) Packaging
• Where studs / poppers / buttons are attached to garments please ensure
tissue paper / foam is used to prevent impression marks when flat packed
- 36 - KM Golden Rules 2009.doc
KNITWEAR SECTION 7 SECTION 3
a) Knitting and Fashioning
• Taking our grade rules into consideration review body width measurements
at each fit stage and advise us on any minimum measurement / bed width
restrictions.
• All knitwear is to be fully fashioned unless otherwise requested. • All
knitwear should have a cast off edge at the base of armhole/raglan
(2.0cm forward and 3.0cm back) unless otherwise requested.
b) Seams, Linking and Fashioning
• All knitwear construction is to be linked unless otherwise requested. •
All fashioning should be set 4 whales in from the link seam unless
otherwise requested.
• All seams on fully fashioned knitwear are to be linked closed.
• It is the factories responsibility to link all production garments in the most
appropriate way to ensure that the linking does not crack.
Suggested Linking Methods Are:
1 end Bulk yarn and 1 end PP (Polyester) thread
Or
1 end Bulk yarn and 1 end Nylon thread
However if another linking method is more appropriate for the garment /
yarn please consult and confirm with us during the sampling process. It
is also the factories responsibility to control the linking tension so that
there is plenty of stretch in the linked seams.
All this must be monitored and correct on all sampling and bulk production.
• All linking tension must be correct and must not crack when stretched. •
Linking at the waistband has to be able to stretch out by at least 40% without
restriction or tightness.
• All fine gauge knit must have clear Framilon stretch tape added into the
shoulder seams. All heavy gauge knitwear must have dyed to match stay
tape added into the shoulder seams.
c) Trim Finishes
• All cuff and hem ribs must have a 1.0cm tighter tension knit start. • The
neck trim is to be linked to the garment body of all fully fashioned
garments.
• All rib trims are to be knitted integrally to the body (not linked) unless
otherwise requested.
• Cable stitch is to be knitted into the base of a keyhole or V-neck for added
security.
• The neck trim on all V-neck must be mitred.
- 37 - KM Golden Rules 2009.doc
d) Plackets
• All full needle knitted plackets (fine gauge) are to be backed / faced with
100% viscose gross grain ribbon unless otherwise requested.
• Stitched button holes must not distort the placket and must be sewn in the
appropriate tension.
• Ensure that the knitted placket and gross grain ribbon are the same length
and do not step.
• Do not stretch/ease the knit when applying gross grain ribbon. • All
gross grain ribbon must be pre-shrunk so there is no differential
shrinkage.
• Do not stretch the knit / placket when attaching the placket to the garment.
e) Straps and Ties
• Detachable and adjustable straps are to be attached with the slider at the
back strap adjusted to 5.0cm. Strap measurements will be taken at this
setting.
• Ribbon tie ends must be turned and stitched or heat sealed (if polyester).
f) Zips
• All zips must be to length and not cut to size.
• The zip tape must be faced with full needle knitted strapping on the inside
of the garment unless otherwise requested.
• Zip teeth should be hidden / covered by the placket unless otherwise
requested.
g) Hanger Loops
• All Crochet, strappy camisoles and dresses and strapless tops are all to
have Karen Millen logo hanging loops inserted into the top of the side
seam 1.5cm-2.0cm down from the top edge.
• For slash neck or off the shoulder garments Karen Millen logo hanging loops
should be attached to the shoulder points. The loops should be long
enough to hang round the neck of the coat hanger.
h) Embellishment
• Double knot appropriate to the style and the beading to ensure secure
attachment.
• The securing thread is to be core spun polyester.
• Double thread is to be used to secure the embellishment.
• Stitch tension must be correct not to cause cracking.
• Attach embellishment vertical down the length of the garment and not
horizontal to allow for stretch and ease.
• There must be no floats on the back of the garment more than 1.0cm long •
Thread ends are to be trimmed and no longer than 0.5cm.
- 38 - KM Golden Rules 2009.doc
• Thread ends are to be pulled through to the reverse side and not appear
on the face of the garment.
• There must be a minimum of 10 spare beads / sequins in a bag per type of
bead / sequin.
• Any manufacturing / embellishment issues are to be raised prior to
production.
i) Buttons, Poppers and Metalwork
• A spare of each size / type of functioning button is to be provided on all
production garments.
• Buttons are to be attached using dyed to match thread unless otherwise
requested.
• Buttons 24 ligne and above are to be whip stitched creating a shank
approximately 0.3cm in depth.
• Poppers must be attached down placket through one layer of knit and one
layer of gross grain ribbon (for stability) or a tubular placket.
• Any Logo buttons / poppers should be straight read the right way round. •
You must not attach any scratched or tarnished metalwork to any approval or
production garment.
j) Button Holes
• Button holes are to be neatly satin stitched.
• Button holes are to be stitched vertically down plackets. The top button
hole is to be stitched horizontal.
• Button loops are to be 0.3cm knitted rouleaux loops unless otherwise
requested.
• Rouleaux button loops are to be bar tacked at the base for security. •
Crochet buttons holes must be finished off / reinforced with blanket
stitching.
k) Belts and Belt Loops
• Knitted belts with buckles should always have a full needle knitted
strapping belt keeper.
• Knitted belt loops (full needle strapping) should be linked on and bar
tacked top and bottom for added security.
l) Linings
• Stretch lining is to be used for all knitwear unless otherwise requested. •
Lining seams are to be 4 thread over-locked in core spun polyester. • All
lining seams are to be on the inside of the garment (next to the body). • The
lining seam allowance is to be pressed towards the back of the garment.
• The lining hem is to be single turned and twin needled at 2.0cm unless
otherwise requested.
- 39 - KM Golden Rules 2009.doc
• For slip linings please attach to knitted/crochet shell with fixed chain stitch
links at hem and base of armhole and with a chain stitched loop and
popper at the shoulders to enable the linking to be detachable.
• For fully inserted linings please stitch into knitted/crochet shell using dyed
to match polyester thread and stitch neatly.
• Ensure that all lining is cut on the correct grain and in the non ladder
direction.
m) Crochet
• Please take into account that the crochet will drop when hanging. • For
Crochet garments with linings, labelling is to be attached to the inside of the
lining and not the crochet.
• All yarn ends should be knotted off neatly and pulled through to the inside
of the garment and trimmed neatly.
- 40 - KM Golden Rules 2009.doc
DIAGRAM 1:-
Tack zip tape onto seam
allowances
DIAGRAM 2:-
Back strap loop around bra ring.
2cm long loop (flat)
2cm allowance inserted into
seam, with bartack at base
- 41 - KM Golden Rules 2009.doc
DIAGRAM 3:Seam allowance on bra strap adjusters
Seam allowance on bra
strap adjusters
DIAGRAM 4:Tack zip guard to base of fly
Tack down
at curve
- 42 - KM Golden Rules 2009.doc
DIAGRAM 5:Belt loops – stitch down at bottom edge on inside of loop
Insert belt loops into top and bottom edge of
waistband if possible
1CM
Stitch loop down 1cm below waistband on
inside of loop
DIAGRAM 6:-
Stitch down onto waistband on the inside of belt loop
- 43 - KM Golden Rules 2009.doc
DIAGRAM 7:Jigger buttonhole position
DIAGRAM 8:Insert hanging loop into top edge
2cm
- 44 - KM Golden Rules 2009.doc
DIAGRAM 9:Insert hanging loop into binding on waist facings
DIAGRAM 10:Stitch down onto waistband
facing
Attachment of back straps onto cami
Stitch into back neck binding on the inside
Fold strap up and stitch in place
Fold strap under and
stitch into place
Stitch into back neck binding on the inside
- 45 - KM Golden Rules 2009.doc
DIAGRAM 11:Chain loops to attach cami to garment Stitch
chain loop onto shoulder seam allowance With
small popper so camisole/slip is deatachable
Stitch chain loop onto shoulder seam allowance
DIAGRAM 12:-
Stitch fly
2.5cm
from edge
2.5 cm
- 46 - KM Golden Rules 2009.doc
DIAGRAM 13:Step up lining from main hem
Stitch detail (e.g. saddle stitch) does not catch onto lining
Flat piping
Lining
Step up lining from main hem
Stitch detail (e.g. saddle stitch) does not catch onto
lining
DIAGRAM 14:-
7.5
cm
5mm
CB
Attach chain through
lining loops
KAREN
KAREN MILLEN
ENGLAND
UK
10
US 6
- 47 - KM Golden Rules 2009.doc