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Editorial
Martyn Knowles, Editor
Email martyn.knowles@kelsey.co.uk
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Emission zones expand
 So, last month came the news that
the Mayor of London, Sadiq Khan,
announced that the Ultra Low Emission
Zone (ULEZ) will expand much wider
than it does at present in the London
area. From August 29th 2023, if you
live within the zone and don’t have the
correct vehicle to meet the emission
requirements, then you must pay a
penalty (£12.50 daily) if you wish to
drive your own vehicle to the local
supermarket, for instance! OK, this only
affects a few of us reading this, but the
ULEZ role-model will no doubt be used in
various other bigger cities around the UK.
Saying that, some cities already
operate this system. Take Birmingham –
same set-up, operating 24 hours a day,
with pre-Euro 4 petrol and pre-Euro 6
diesels being charged £8 a day when
entering the controlled zones.
Bristol’s Clean Air Zone (CAZ) began
operating at the end of November and
pretty-much follows the London ULEZ
policy – charging £9 a day if you are
caught with a non-compliant vehicle.
Glasgow’s Low Emission Zone (LEZ)
has a zone in place, but from June 2023
vehicles will need to meet a requirement
(same as above) otherwise a £60 penalty
charge will arrive with the registered
keeper – 50% reduction if paid within
14 days! The penalty amount will
double with each subsequent breach
of the rules in the same LEZ. Penalty
charges are capped at £480.
Manchester, Aberdeen, Dundee and
Edinburgh have plans to introduce LEZs.
As an asthma sufferer, I’m all for
cleaning up the air and realise action is
required. Yet, the way these emission
zones work, means that cars – especially
the mountains of diesel cars on our
roads that won’t meet the emissions
Parts ordering delays
 Not sure if this is a wider problem than here in the UK, but recently we
have noticed that parts from abroad are taking a very long time to reach our
shores. Take our Kia Sportage project car as an example, with the squeaky
rear suspension. We tried the aftermarket first, however, it would seem that
this bush is a main dealer part only. We’ve been waiting five months and it
still hasn’t arrived. Whether it is already in the UK and the delay is at the port
(customs), we don’t know.
Another example, and a reason
I mention this story here – one of my
neighbours owns a 2019 Hyundai
Tucson for which I hadn’t seen it drive
past lately. Bumping into the lady
owner while she was out walking her
dog, I asked if she had sold the Tucson.
Initially, I thought she may have had
an accident and the car was being
repaired. No... something mechanical
has gone wrong (she didn’t explain
the ins and outs of the fault as she had
to rush off ). However, Hyundai have
had her Tucson for three weeks up
to that point and now, as I write this,
another week has gone by. A month
without a car (with no hire car offered).
Have you witnessed delays in parts
ordering from any main dealer?
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criteria, might
be sold. Yes
sold – they won’t be crushed by the
current owners as they still have much
monetary value in them. So, by selling,
just to avoid a daily charge, the said
pollution of these vehicles won’t go
away – it’s just being pushed to another
part of the country.
We all know diesels are much cleaner
than ever before with Euro 6, however
Euro 7 is coming in 2025. Will that mean
Euro 6 vehicles then being banned from
controlled zones further down the line?
Back to the just announced ULEZ. The
new zone takes in all 33 Greater London
boroughs – it’s a massive area and many
cars will be sold from this area during
2023. Sadly, those with diesel vehicles
that just do, say, 3000 miles a year, will be
penalised £12.50 each time they hit the
zone, against a Euro 6 vehicle that meets
the requirements but does, say, 30,000
miles a year – who is the highest polluter?
If you have an older petrol model,
things are a little rosy. Bizarrely, my
previously owned 2001 Rover 75 2.0
V6 (Euro 3) meets the ULEZ emissions
standards (ie. free to drive in the ULEZ
zone). Same with our ex-project Merc
SLK with its 3.5-litre V6 petrol engine –
perfectly OK to use without penalties.
Season’s
Greetings
 On behalf of all the writers at
CM – and myself – we’d like to wish
you a very Merry Christmas and a
prosperous New Year!
A better year for many of us as
we were able to get back to normal
after the previous two years of
lockdowns. For 2023, we’re looking
to return to ‘touring’, running from
the UK to Gibraltar (and back).
We are planning to do this midSeptember if any CM readers would
like to follow us on a set route.
We do hope to see you all
in 2023...
Car Mechanics
January 2023
3
Contents
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WORKSHOP
22 Tales from the Workshop
Real-life workshop problems, and how
they were fixed.
49 Take a Brake
TMD Friction talk about Mintex pads.
36 Kia Sportage 2.0 CRDi
Part SIX: Rebuilding the replacement
offside door, fitting an aircon condenser
and trying to fix the rear-view camera.
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54 Service Bay:
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52 Driving towards 2030:
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66 Help!
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52
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4 Car Mechanics
January 2023
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The
Peter Simpson
Buying at auction always carries an element of risk, and
even experienced buyers can be caught out sometimes.
 As many of you have probably noticed, most Car Mechanics
project cars are bought at auction. This is something
I introduced during my 13-year tenure as Editor, and which the
current ‘management’ has, I’m pleased to see, continued. Since
the mid-1990s my own cars have also been sourced that way.
By and large, it works pretty well. But, and this is something
you do need to have to bear in mind if considering it for the
first time, buying at auction does carry an element of risk.
You can control and lessen the risk by choosing carefully and
reading what the descriptions say and don’t say, but whatever
precautions you take, you can never rule out completely the
possibility of buying a dud.
And when that happens, it’s invariably down to you to sort
out. Even when an auction car is sold with a full mechanical
report, you’ll have only a very limited time to register a
complaint, and it’ll need to be pretty serious. In fact, you still
may not have any comeback. For example, a British Car Auctions
‘Essentials Checks’ mechanical report is provided on a ‘no claims
will be accepted’ basis as it’s meant to replace the sort of checks
that traders would make at a live auction. A BCA Standard
Mechanical Report allows you 48 hours or 500 miles from
collection/delivery to make a claim, and that’s pretty generous
by auction standards! I can recall rejecting only two cars in
nearly 30 years – one was a clocker that had done 100k more
than a warranted mileage, the other came with a service book
which belonged to a totally different vehicle! Overall, once the
hammer falls on your successful bid, it’s all yours, good or bad!
I don’t have a problem with this; auctions are a trade
environment, and if you want to buy as traders do, then you have
to accept that you are doing so on exactly the same terms. And
because most traders buy several cars a week, they can factor in a
percentage of losses. Some losses are a fact of life because some
major problems just don’t show up in an auction environment.
It’s just happened to me, too
I’ve bought a 2006/56 Lexus GS 450h – that’s the hybrid
version of course, and given the legendary Lexus equipment
levels and reliability, these are always pretty desirable. This
one, though, seemed especially so; 84,000 miles with two
private owners (the last for ten years), 18 (yes eighteen)
stamps of main dealer service history and it’s the high-spec
SE-L version which comes with even more luxury kit including
radar-operated cruise control. It was also a Grade 2 car. That’s
good for an eight-year-old car, let alone one twice that age!
So in short, it sounded like perfect retail stock.
With a car like this, the CAP price (even CAP clean) is
theoretical-only, and the car was always going to finish
way past that. In the end, though I had to pay at just over
£5k. A lot, but I reckoned it could go up for £6495 given its
condition, and probably sell for not much less. So not really a
super profit after all costs, but OK, and Lexuses (or is it Lexi?)
don’t generally give many warranty problems. Retailing cars
of this quality is also good for one’s reputation.
But the moment it came off the transporter I knew
something was wrong. The dash was lit up with warning
lights like a Christmas tree, and a very worrying ‘Check Hybrid
System’ warning was alternating with warnings of ‘Check VSC’
and ‘Check ECB’. My Fault Code Reader confirmed the bad
news with the words “Replace Hybrid Battery.” With the Lexus
dealer price being around £3k, it didn’t take a genius to work
out why this particular car had been traded in!
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COLUMN
‘Mint’ Lexus GS 450h arriving from BCA on
a Cinch-branded transporter – as BCA and
Cinch are both owned by the same company.
Right: Guess which battery
module is causing the problem!
When something like this happens,
you need to think carefully and consider
all the possible options. It’s also
important, though, to assess the rest of
the car – the last thing you want is to be
throwing an uneconomical amount of
cash at a car that has other faults! This
was a bit tricky with the Lexus, as the
hybrid battery affects much else. In this
case I cleared the fault code, and while it
returned within five minutes, while it was out on a run, I could
see that everything else seemed to return to normal.
You also, of course, need to find out what the repair(s) will
cost, using your contacts and knowledge of the trade. Your
instinct will be to spend as little as possible. Sometimes,
though, it’s worth spending a bit extra if that gives your
customer a worthwhile extra benefit such as a transferable
guarantee. You may get a bit extra by doing that. But more
importantly, evidence that a common fault has just been fixed
properly often helps a car sell quickly, and in this situation it’s
usually best to get the car done, finished and gone ASAP.
You’ll also want to consider other options – selling retail with
a known and disclosed fault is difficult, and usually attracts
mainly timewasters and wannabe traders offering next to
nothing. Selling through another auction is another possibility,
but you’ll almost certainly lose money. Sometimes, selling for
spares or breaking yourself is more cost-effective.
In the case of the Lexus, though, I’ve had an OK outcome.
I know an extremely clever guy named Richard, who has a
cottage industry business rebuilding/refurbishing hybrid
batteries. He’s good, you can find out more at www.
hybridbatterysolutions.co.uk. Anyway, Richard was able to
rebuild my battery for £745, and give a 12-month/10,000-mile
warranty. The Editor has agreed to let me tell you more in a full
feature in a forthcoming issue, but for now, suffice it to say that
the battery is working exactly as it should, and the car is now in
perfectly saleable condition. A profit is still unlikely, but breakeven seems a distinct possibility, and will be a good result.
Navigating a way out of this has, though, required a fair
amount of knowledge and, of course, contacts. But that is
what buying at auctions can entail – and why auction-buying
can be good, but really isn’t for everyone.
Car Mechanics
January 2023
5
INSTANT EXPERT
Like virtually all parts of
the modern motor car,
lighting has become
more complicated but
Rob Marshall finds that
owners are not banished
entirely from repairing,
maintaining and
upgrading from home.
Follow Rob on Twitter:
#CarTechJourno
Lighting repairs are more complex
on modern cars but you can still save
money, by appreciating how they work
before breaking open the toolbox.
I
f you were asked what is the biggest
cause of MOT failures in the UK, what
would your answer be? Suspension?
brakes? tyres? The truth is that
lighting (albeit incorporating reflectors
and electrical equipment) accounts for
almost three and three quarter million
MOT fails, virtually twice as many
caused by tyres. These recent findings,
from the AA, will be of particular
interest to DIYers, because many lighting
issues are relatively easy to rectify.
Types of lighting
While the science and Type Approval
legislation that governs automotive
lighting are convoluted topics, the range
of light sources is fairly straightforward.
Filament bulb
While the pictured bulb type tends to be
used in taillights and direction indicators,
alternative designs suit other applications,
such as those within the interior.
A ‘standard’ filament bulb works by
passing an electrical current through its
internal coiled wire filament, made from
tungsten, chosen because of the metal’s
high melting point. Hella describes such
bulbs as ‘temperature radiators’, because
the tungsten filament glows as a result
of heat produced from electrical energy.
While this makes the bulb relatively
inefficient, the required design and
manufacturing accuracy ensure that the
light output is directed correctly to the
appropriate reflector within the lamp.
This is one reason why replacement
bulbs are required to be e-marked, which
signifies legal compliance. A vital factor
is oxygen being banished from within the
glass envelope, which would encourage
the filament to burn away and fail
relatively quickly. Even without oxygen,
the tungsten filament does not last
forever. As it evaporates, small particles
become deposited on the glass envelope.
Should you notice any blackening on the
glass, the bulb is reaching the end of its
useful life and it is worth renewing it,
before the filament ‘blows’ completely.
Halogen bulb
Manufacturers realised that adding
minor quantities of halogen gases
(such as iodine and bromine) increases
filament life considerably. These
additions facilitate vaporised tungsten
particles to be redeposited back on the
filament but this self-regeneration cycle
needs the bulb’s external temperature to
reach around 300°C to work effectively.
This is one reason why the glass bulb
must be as close as possible to the
filament. It also explains why these bulbs
risk causing severe skin burns, if not
allowed to cool, before being handled.
Apart from reducing the risk of
evaporated filament blackening the glass
and reducing the light output as the bulb
ages, halogen bulbs permit the filament
to accept more power and run at higher
temperatures than were possible before.
OUR LIGHTS WERE ALWAYS BRIGHT
NOW THEY’RE SMART AS WELL.
6 Car Mechanics
January 2023
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LIGHTING
Advertisement
feature
This raises the light output, while
maintaining filament life, meaning up to
20 metres of improved visibility for the
car driver in poor weather and nighttime driving conditions.
Halogen bulbs are designated ‘H’
(Halogen) and were used mainly in
headlamps. The earliest type was H4,
which comprised twin filaments. The
one for the dipped beam was fitted with
a shroud, which directed the light onto
the reflectors to provide a distinct cut-off
line of light. This cover is, obviously, not
necessary for the other filament, which
provides the main beam function. Most
modern cars utilise H1, H3, H7, H9,
H11, or HB3 bulbs that possess a single
filament that can be used for either low, or
high/main beam. Yet, dual filament bulbs
are appearing again. H15, for instance,
combines a single filament for the
daytime running lamp/sidelight function
and another one for the main beam.
High-Intensity Discharge bulb
High-Intensity Discharge (HID)
headlamps appeared first on the 1991
BMW 7-series but it took some time
later for them to become popular on
higher-trimmed models as an alternative
to halogen. Compared to filament bulbs,
THE SYMBOL OF
OE QUALITY
HELLA, the
lighting expert
HIDs last at least five times longer and
offer superior light for at least 20%
less power consumption. They are also
unaffected by vibration and use.
Today, their popularity is waning in
favour of LEDs but many older vehicles
are still fitted with them. Informally,
HID lamps may also be called ‘Xenon’.
This is inaccurate and confusing
nomenclature, not just because xenon is
a minority gas used in HID bulb burners
but also because xenon is used in some
halogen bulbs to enhance filament
life. To confuse the matter further, we
have also seen filament upgrade bulbs
advertised with the term ‘xenon’, usually
on types that produce less yellow light.
 For more than 120 years HELLA
has been the driving force behind
automotive lighting development
and the original equipment partner
of choice for lighting solutions for
vehicle manufacturers worldwide.
This expertise, which has brought
innovations such as Matrix LED
self-dimming headlights, dynamic
‘swiping’ indicators and tailored
interior/exterior lighting functions
is evident throughout the HELLA
range, but also fulfils the daily needs
of motorists with a practical variety
of bulbs that include Standard, Long
Life, Performance, White Light and
Xenon to provide them with options
that cater for every preference.
For more information concerning
HELLA lighting or its other
aftermarket products, please contact
the sales team on 01295 662400 or
email: hella.sales@hella.com
BULBS  MAXIMISING LIFE
 The biggest killer of filament
bulbs is high voltage. While a 5%
increase makes a typical bulb 20%
brighter, it halves the service life.
If your electrical system is healthy,
with the alternator working correctly,
the bulbs should not be exposed to
overvoltage. If bulbs are blowing
regularly, you may wish to measure
the voltage at the bulb connectors
with a multimeter. Yet, there may not
be a fault. Some headlamp designs
lack sufficient ventilation, meaning
that the bulbs can overheat and fail
prematurely. Should this be the case,
you may wish to consider installing
long-life bulbs, as detailed in our
later upgrades advice.
Unlike filament bulbs, HIDs in
headlights do not fail suddenly.
Instead, the light output reduces over
time. The cause is ageing gas and
salt molecules, some of which defuse
through the glass. As the process
occurs gradually, you may not notice
a problem and your car may still pass
the MOT but your forward vision will
be compromised. This explains why
bulb manufacturers recommend
that HIDs are replaced in pairs every
five years. HID life also depends on
the number of times that they are
switched on and off.
As HIDs are ECU monitored, faults
should be indicated either through a
physical message on the dashboard,
or other means, such as a flashing
dipped beam symbol. The car’s
instruction manual should detail
the message you should expect, so
you (or a garage) can interrogate
the resultant fault code with
diagnostic equipment through the
EOBD socket. You can detect igniter
failure by listening for a clicking
sound emanating from the affected
headlamp. If the ballast fails, you will
not hear anything.
Unlike halogen, or HID bulbs,
LED lamps are sealed, meaning
that the individual light sources
cannot be renewed. While LEDs run
cooler than both halogen and HIDs,
residual heat must be removed
from their heat bases. While this
tends not to be a problem for rear
taillights, or LEDs used infrequently,
high-value headlamps require
heat sinks, cooling fans, or both.
Should an LED lamp go faulty, apart
from sourcing a replacement, your
best bet is to approach one of the
popular electrical remanufacturing
companies. ACtronics, for instance,
has added LED headlamps to its
portfolio but the choices are limited
currently to Audi and Mazda models.
SEE THE WORLD WITH
DIFFERENT LIGHTS.
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Car Mechanics
January 2023
7
LIGHTING
ROB’S TOP TIP
HIDs generate light output using
electrical discharge, a principle shared
with arc and modern strip lights. In
the scaled-down automotive headlight
application, gases that include xenon and
a mixture of other metals are ionized
and glow within a sealed glass tube,
when an electrical current is applied to a
pair of electrodes.
Like a modern strip light, HID bulbs
require an igniter to deliver the high
voltage (around 18,000 and 30,000 volts
in the automotive application) that starts
the process. The ballast then delivers
around 35 and 85 volts and alternating
(of around 400Hz) current, to create
temperatures high enough to evaporate
the various salts and ionise the gases
within the sealed glass envelope. This
explains why HID bulbs take at least
several seconds to warm and brighten
fully after being switched on. The ballast
continues to regulate the power input and
ensures that the lamp is not damaged by
uncontrolled current increases.
Like halogen bulbs, all HIDs are not
born equally. Branded ‘D’ for discharge,
HIDs are categorised according to their
generations, with additional letters
denoting the optics: ‘S’ for projector
and ‘R’ for reflective. D1 is the firstgeneration bulb, possessing an integral
igniter. D2 has a separate igniter
and no exterior protective glass bulb
surrounds the discharge tube, making
them relatively fragile, so handle them
carefully. A big environmental issue
with HID bulbs was their use of toxic
mercury vapour. D3 (with an integral
igniter) and D4 (without the integral
igniter) bulbs solved this issue from
around 2012, by using non-toxic zinc
iodide instead. Yet, they cannot replace
D1 and D2 bulbs, because they require
around half the voltage to operate.
The latest HIDs are D5 and D8 bulbs,
which consume even less power but also
produce less light. This is advantageous
for some car manufacturers because,
as they produce 2000 Lumens or less,
as opposed to around 3200 lumens of
other HID bulbs, European legislation
requires neither headlamp levelling, nor
headlight washers. Therefore, they offer
car manufacturers means of offering
HID headlamps for less cost.
As HID replacement bulb prices are
relatively high, and they must be replaced
in pairs to ensure an even light output
and colour, it may be tempting to seek
out the cheapest bulbs you can, especially
through online marketplaces. Resist the
urge. Several manufacturers (notably,
Philips) have highlighted the dangers of
counterfeit, or fake, bulbs. One obvious
difference is the deletion of ultraviolet
(UV) filters in the HID glass to save costs.
The problem is that you will never know
the difference until the internal headlamp
plastic cover becomes cloudy from the
exposure. Always buy bulbs from known
brands from reputable suppliers.
Cautious DIYers may be dissuaded by
the extremely high voltages involved.
Yet, provided that you turn off the lights
at the switch, remove the ignition key
(or keep it out of range for cars with
keyless entry) and disconnect the fuse
that controls the headlamps, you should
be safe from electrocution.
D1 and D2 bulbs should be disposed
as hazardous waste (code 060404),
due to their mercury content.
LED bulb
Recently, huge advances in Light
Emitting Diode technology have seen
LEDs become the latest darling of the
lighting scene. Car designers love them,
because they provide an unusual luxury
of relative design freedom, outside of
the constraints imposed upon them by
legislation. Carmakers like them too,
because their lower power demands
make a relevant contribution to reducing
exhaust emissions and fuel use. They
also possess a very long service life, are
vibration-resistant, do not require any
maintenance and avoid toxic mercury.
LEDs are also compact, produce neither
ultraviolet, nor infrared, radiation and
they also permit directional illumination
for headlamp applications at reduced
complexity and cost, compared with HID.
LEDs are semiconductors that emit
light, when an electrical current is
ILLEGAL UPGRADES
 Around a decade ago, it was popular for DIY car owners to install
HID conversion kits to halogen headlamps. Their reasoning was it
enhanced their car’s looks and enhanced visibility. Unfortunately,
the halogen reflectors are incompatible with the new light source.
Eventually, the UK authorities reacted and highlighted their illegality.
More recently, the same issue has been raised again but with LED headlamp conversions. For the same reasons,
the halogen optics cannot direct the LED light source effectively, one consequence of which is enhancing potentially
dangerous dazzle for oncoming motorists. Notably, the MOT testing manual states:
‘Existing halogen headlamp units on vehicles... must not be converted to be used with high-intensity discharge
(HID) or light emitting diode (LED) bulbs. If such a conversion has been done, you must fail the headlamp for light
source and lamp not compatible.’
Yet, what about fitting LED conversion bulbs (as pictured) to other exterior lamps, such as taillights? One major
problem with these bulbs is that they are not type-approved, which is a legal requirement for replacement light sources.
Since Brexit, the DVSA announced that these LED conversion bulbs cannot be used on vehicles used after 1st April 1986.
If you decide to do so, do not presume that an MOT pass sanctions your actions. It is Type Approval that has been
affected as a result, making your car unroadworthy, for which the driver is responsible legally.
Should you wish to use LED lamps, you have to buy complete sealed units, which have been tested and bear the appropriate
e-marks. Yet, you can use LED conversion bulbs within your interior, providing that any light beam is not directed outside.
OUR LIGHTS WERE ALWAYS BRIGHT
NOW THEY’RE SMART AS WELL.
8 Car Mechanics
January 2023
Continued
on page
10
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YOUR DAYLIGHT
AT NIGHT.
HELLA IS A PIONEER IN LIGHTING
TECHNOLOGY FOR THE AUTOMOTIVE
INDUSTRY. DRIVING THE MEGATRENDS
OF TOMORROW.
LIGHTING
ROB’S TOP TIP
passed through them. It sounds simple
but experts, who design lamps for car
manufacturers, put great effort into
their design. Hella reports that different
semiconductor layers form the LED chip
and the structure of these layers has a
crucial bearing on LED luminous yield
(efficiency) and light colour.
While LEDs use very little current
and illuminate immediately once power
is applied, several factors reduce their
On HID headlights, disconnect the
ballast’s electrical supply before working
on the lamp, to isolate the high voltage.
lifespan. As LED modules are not
designed to be replaced, it is in any
car owner’s best interest to preserve
lamp life as much as possible. LEDs are
extremely sensitive to excessive current,
which either shorten their lives, or make
them fail immediately. When testing,
therefore, never connect LED lamps to a
power source directly without a suitable
current limiter, or a resistance circuit
being incorporated. This also explains
why high-power LED lamps (such as
those used for headlamps) possess a
ballast to regulate the power levels.
LEDs are also very sensitive to
temperature. Thankfully, this tends not
to affect LED rear lamps but powerful
headlamps require thermal management
systems to take heat away from the
chips’ bases.
LEGAL UPGRADES
 Road legal upgrades involve improving the original
filament bulb, not changing it, unless you fit replacement
lamps. As with any modifications, much depends on what
you wish to achieve. Fitting brighter bulbs to compensate
for fogged lamp covers, or deteriorated reflectors, are
unlikely to deliver a satisfactory improvement and may
even contribute to dazzling oncoming motorists. Yet,
bulb manufacturers offer a variety of different options,
many with baffling marketing names, which tend to offer
three primary benefits:
1. Brighter bulb To keep within the mandatory Type
Approval requirements, these bulbs can be no more than 10% brighter than a limit set by legislation. They tend not to use
more current but contain internal refinements, such as different gases, or a tighter wound filament. Hella told us that providing
light where it is needed, rather than indiscriminately, is crucial. The company highlights that its range of Performance
+60% or +120% upgraded halogen bulbs, for instance, provides the driver with improved visibility of up to 50 metres.
2. Long-life bulbs If you drive long distances regularly, a particular lamp design encourages frequent bulb failure, or
if replacing the bulb involves extensive dismantling, long-life bulbs are an attractive proposition. Some of these bulbs
carry very long guarantees of up to 2-3 years. They last longer, because they run cooler and, while performance bulbs
can be up to 10% brighter than standard, a long-life bulb can run up to 10% lower. Yet, bulb manufacturers tend to limit
this compromise with clever design and materials.
3. Different colours Light colour is another parameter that is dictated by Type Approval but, thankfully, flexibility is
built into the rules. The light’s colour output is influenced mainly by the filament; reduced temperatures cause more
yellow light to be emitted, for instance. However, a white or blue output tends to offer superior reflection qualities and
so bulb manufacturers achieve this by either using different gases (including xenon, confusingly) or by colour coating
the glass envelope. You may also find these features on high-performance, or long-life, bulbs but they will keep their
emitted colour within the specified tolerances to remain road legal.
Many classic car lamps can be dismantled, so
you can unscrew the separate lenses and renew
gaskets and reflectors. Most modern car lamps,
however, are sealed, moulded assembles.
Pictured is a D1 bulb being removed from
an HID reflector. The large square metal box
(arrowed) is the igniter unit. Some bulbs have
plastic-bodied igniters.
Check all electrical connections, whenever
removing bulbs, or lamps. This plastic
moulding has melted as a result of a corroded
connector. Fortunately, repair loom kits tend
to be available for common connector types.
OUR LIGHTS WERE ALWAYS BRIGHT
NOW THEY’RE SMART AS WELL.
10 Car Mechanics
January 2023
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME
LIGHTING
HID BALLAST DIAGNOSTICS
 The ballast controls the bulb start-up sequence and regulates the power input afterwards. Aside from an AC/
DC converter, it also incorporates several safety functions. Due to the potentially lethal DC voltages involved,
the ballast cuts the power within 0.2 seconds if it detects faults, or damage to the HID bulbs, or wiring. It also
ensures that the igniter is operated up to seven times – should the bulb not operate, the system shuts down.
The ballast tends to be situated close to the lamp. The pictured unit is mounted to the headlight’s
underside and is simply unbolted and unplugged. Internal faults can develop but they are almost impossible
for a DIYer to diagnose accurately. However, you can deduce a ballast fault, by ruling out other issues. Before
replacing it, you can check if it attempts to ignite the bulb, by listening for clicking within the headlamp. Should
there be no response, swap HID bulbs from the other headlamp, presuming that is known to be working. If no fuses have
blown, check for a reliable earth and confirm that the lamp is supplied with at least nine volts. If all of these considerations are
satisfactory (and presuming the igniter is integral with the HID bulb), then you can deduce that the ballast is to blame.
Some cars use Pulse Width Modulation that permits the same bulb to
perform multiple functions within the rear lamp clusters. For instance,
the Golf MkV uses a 21W (watt) bulb for both the stop and taillight.
Only 5.7 volts is applied for the sidelight but, once the brake pedal is
depressed, this increases to 13.5 volts.
Hella reasons that LED rear lamps have safety benefits. While a
conventional incandescent bulb needs up to 0.2 seconds to light up, an
LED reacts immediately. As the brake light illuminates faster, it is a fair
argument that the vehicle behind is given more time to react.
 When buying replacement
lamps, especially headlights
online, ensure that the
replacement lamp is suitable
for your car, because the same
model can have different
lighting options. Pictured are
two Renault Mégane Scénic
headlights: the one pictured
left utilises HID technology;
the other has halogen bulbs.
They are not interchangeable.
LED MATRIX HEADLIGHT FAULTS
 LED matrix headlamps are ECU controlled and can comprise many LED modules
that can be activated, or deactivated accordingly. Features that include main beam
assist, or auto beam functions, use a forward-facing camera to detect oncoming
traffic and control the LEDs to reduce the dazzle risk but maximise available light in
other areas. This emphasises the importance of ADAS (Advanced Driver Assistance
System) alignment for these vehicles, so the camera continues to ‘see’ correctly. ADAS alignment is a garage-only task that
should be carried out after any suspension repair is completed, from bush to shock-absorber replacements.
Faults are flagged by a fascia warning message, which will limit functions, until the control unit is interrogated
through the EOBD socket with diagnostic equipment. As with other ECUs, you can also view and adjust live parameters,
such as the dipped beam alignment, and perform functional tests.
While LED matrix headlamps are sealed, you can replace some ancillary items. On the Audi A6/S6, for instance, you
can replace the three ECUs, the ballast that controls power to the LEDs (ie. for the direction indicators, daytime running
lamps, low beam/high beam and the matrix function), the two fan motors and the headlamp levelling actuator. When
the lamp is renewed, you can swap control units and both fans. However, even if you simply remove and refit the same
headlamp and not replace it, the system will need calibrating afterwards, which is performed diagnostically. Like ADAS
calibration, this is not a feasible DIY operation.
SEE THE WORLD WITH
DIFFERENT LIGHTS.
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Car Mechanics
January 2023
11
LIGHTING
ROB’S TOP TIP
Broken D1 and D2 bulbs release
highly toxic mercury vapour.
Leave the room and ensure it is
well-ventilated before returning.
PLASTIC COVER RENOVATION
 Eventually, sunlight overcomes the UV-protective coating that is applied to plastic lamp covers, causing the plastic to
cloud and ugly grey/yellow marks to appear on clear plastic. Apart from looking unsightly, this situation poses a safety
issue. In severe cases, it can cause an MOT test failure, due to altered light output on headlamps especially. Fortunately, the
damage tends to be superficial but is easier to rectify if caught early. While some imaginative owners have reported success
using mildly-abrasive products, from paintwork cutting compound to toothpaste, a variety of inexpensive dedicated kits
are available, which can return your lamp covers to as-new condition.
 The most popular type of product
requires you to abrade the damage away,
prior to polishing the surface to a flawless finish.
Autoglym claims that its headlight restoration
kit contains sufficient product to renovate two
headlamps, although we found that you had
to be sparing with the sandpaper. Read any
instructions carefully, before starting work.
1
 This Renault Clio’s lamp has
deteriorated from prolonged UV
exposure; note the formation of blotchy yellow
marks. Thankfully, the damage is restricted to
the cover’s exterior surface. Some cheap bulbs
lack a suitable UV blocker, resulting in the
lamp cover going cloudy on the inside.
2
You can avoid removing the lamp, by
masking the surrounding paintwork –
because you can damage it easily while sanding.
We recommend that you buy masking tape
supplied to professional body shops; the quality
and value of tape from some DIY stores can be
very low. While the pictured masking paper is
ideal, newspaper would suffice as an alternative.
not think that you can get away with
4 Do
not protecting the paintwork, if repairing
the lamp in situ. Ensure that all tape protects
the edges thoroughly. Consider applying two
layers of tape, one over the other, to double-up
protection in case you slip using the drill.
If the damage is fairly extensive,
you may find that the kit contains
insufficient sandpaper. In this case, we
removed the main damage first, by using
500-grit wet-and-dry, used dry. The main
damage is removed, when the plastic is
evenly cloudy, with no remaining blotches.
The main consideration with these kits
is that you need to be confident using
an electric drill, because the kit contains
a drill mount, to which Velcro-backed
sandpaper discs mount. Starting with the
most abrasive paper supplied (ie. the lowest
‘P’ number), and used either wet, or dry,
dependent on the instructions, sand until the
lamp’s resulting opaqueness is even.
The increasing ‘P’ numbers indicate the
reduced abrasiveness of the sandpaper.
Use them all; do not skip grades to save time.
Patience is the key to success – rushing not
just wastes the kit but also prejudices the
final result.
Heed any instructions about when
to apply water to the cover. As the
sandpaper abrasive grades reduce, water
acts as a lubricant to prepare for the final
polishing stages. Again, ensure that the
headlamp’s cloudiness is reduced but it must
be even before you change sandpaper grades.
3
5
6
7
8
OUR LIGHTS WERE ALWAYS BRIGHT
NOW THEY’RE SMART AS WELL.
12 Car Mechanics
January 2023
Continued
on page
14
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Car Mechanics
January 2023
13
LIGHTING
ROB’S TOP TIP
PLASTIC COVER RENOVATION CONTINUED
After working through P2000, the P3000
grit is used wet with the drill. By this stage,
the lamp cover is looking considerably better,
as it loses its murkiness and becomes clearer.
As you work, it is beneficial to check that the
masking tape and paper are sufficiently intact
so they continue to protect the paintwork.
D3 and D4 HIDs, as well as
filament bulbs, contain non-toxic
elements. They can be included
with normal household waste.
9
This Autoglym kit includes mild abrasive paste for the final polishing process. It also
includes a separate pad and microfibre cloth. Use the paste sparingly, to avoid it being
splattered over the working area. Yet, allow it plenty of time to work, before buffing it off.
10
 The result is a considerable
improvement, meaning that the
lamp’s cover no longer worries the MOT
Tester. Finally, the masking tape and
paper are removed and discarded. The
exercise is now repeated on the other
headlamp, before the car is washed.
11
 If you are handy with a spray
can, applying an appropriate
sealant to the cover offers a less
laborious method than sanding and
polishing alone. This Chrysler’s
headlamp has deteriorated in a similar
way to that of the Renault.
12
 While you will be spray
painting, you can still leave
the lamp in place, provided that you
take greater care with your masking.
This kit, from BG Products, includes
masking tape, masking roll, sandpaper
and sanding blocks.
13
 Always follow all instructions
carefully. You will have to sand
out the worst of the discolourations
from the plastic but you are spared the
laborious polishing process...
14
 ...because you apply the
aerosol spray sealant, instead.
Apply several light coats from a distance
that ensures even coverage and no runs.
You will need warm, dry and dust-free
conditions – so now may not be the best
time. We achieved a satisfactory result
on a cool summer afternoon.
15
 The sealant may be less
user-friendly than the polishing
method but it is quicker. The new
coating also adds ultraviolet protection
to the plastic surface. Once the product
has dried, remove the masking paper
and tape.
16
OUR LIGHTS WERE ALWAYS BRIGHT
NOW THEY’RE SMART AS WELL.
14 Car Mechanics
January 2023
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME
LIGHTING
LED & HID LEVELLING
 Many cars possess manual adjusters, in the
form of a switch that lowers the dip beam
angle, to avoid blinding those approaching
the vehicle, when it is carrying heavy weights.
HID and LED headlamp dipped beams must
self-level automatically. For the MOT Test,
both systems should work if fitted originally.
The picture shows a self-levelling system used by a typical vehicle
with HIDs that produce over 2000 lumens of light.
The pictured component parts are:
7. Wheel speed
1. Headlamp
4. Light switch
sensor
2. Actuator
5. ECU
3. Front axle sensor
6. Rear axle sensor
8. Weight in boot
If you wish to convert any lamp
to LED, you will need to replace
the complete assembly, so the
optics inside work correctly.
Organic LEDs (OLED) are the latest in rear
lamp technology, where light is produced in
1mm thick layers, bonded to the lamp. No
reflectors are needed and they require only
3-4 volts to operate. The lamp can also be
made up to 90% smaller than filament types.
MODERN HEADLAMPS: HIDDEN COMPLICATIONS
 While this feature details halogen, HID and LED as the three main light sources, some headlamps combine technologies.
For instance, some vehicles use self-levelling HID for dipped beam but the main beam function is provided by a halogen
bulb. One reason is that HIDs do not react sufficiently quickly, when switched on. Some cars that use HID for the main
beam contain a physical shutter that flips positions to lower the beam pattern, instead of switching the burner on and off.
Some lamps also feature interesting features that tend not to be appreciated. Pictured is Lexus’s BladeScan. It operates
by shining light from the LEDs onto a pair of compact, blade-shaped mirrors that rotate at over 900rpm, before the
light is refracted onto another reflector to illuminate the road ahead. Lexus says that BladeScan increases night-time
pedestrian recognition from 32 to 56 yards.
SEE THE WORLD WITH
DIFFERENT LIGHTS.
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Car Mechanics
January 2023
15
LIGHTING
ROB’S
TOP TIP
There is no facility provided
to replace road-legal LEDs
onsealed lamps.
IMPACT DAMAGE
 Despite their increasing sophistication, headlamps are reliable components. This is just as well, because they can be expensive
to replace. While pattern headlamps, ie. those not supplied by either the car manufacturer, or its suppliers (such as Hella and Valeo,
for instance), tend to be less expensive, they may not fit accurately. They also tend to be available only in halogen form, meaning
that your choices for new replacements for LED and HID are limited. However, certain car manufacturers (and aftermarket electronic
specialists) are offering ‘remanufactured’ second-hand parts that are priced considerably below that of brand-new alternatives.
Impact is the main reason for damaged lamps. You can blame design fashion in part, where the headlamp cover tends not to
be recessed and protected by surrounding body panels, but also component itself is more fragile. The plastic lamp moulding,
especially, can break surprisingly easily, especially on the points at which the lamp attaches to the body. Apart from risking
dazzling other motorists, an insecure headlamp is an MOT failure. Yet, before searching for a replacement, consider the repair
option as an even more cost-effective alternative.
The bumpers on many modern cars are simply plastic covers.
Unlike in past decades, their ability to absorb minor impact
damage appears secondary to fashion. Note how the headlamp
on this car is almost flush with the surrounding panels, making it
vulnerable to being hit.
 This Mercedes-Benz
B-Class has had a
relatively minor altercation
with a wall. While the
bumper is damaged and
the wing is not, the broken
headlamp has increased the
repair costs. Yet, the lamp
cover is unmarked and the
unit still functions.
At least one of the lamp’s plastic mounts has sheared off
completely. On most cars, only one, or two, mounts tend to be
accessible without further dismantling; the remaining attachment
points tend to be reachable only once you have removed the bumper.
If you are looking to buy a used car, see if the headlamp is attached
securely, by grasping it and checking for untoward movement.
 With the headlamp
removed, check
that its outer moulding is
undamaged, which could
allow moisture into the unit.
If the mountings alone are
broken, you can reattach
and reinforce them with
a hot staple kit. These are
surprisingly inexpensive,
with prices starting from
£15. The repair involves
selecting and installing a
stainless-steel plastic staple
into a gun, which heats it
sufficiently, so it melts into
the plastic, when pressed
into it.
2
1
4
3
 When the staple and surrounding plastic
have cooled, the two pieces should be attached
firmly to each other. Dependent on the affected
area’s shape, you may decide to use extra staples
to reinforce the area further, so the lamp does
not wobble around. Especially if no adjustment is
possible, is not a bad idea to trial-fit the headlamp
to the car body, to ensure that it is aligned correctly.
The picture shows a soldering iron melting the
plastic together, thus reinforcing the crack.
5
 Finally, cut the protruding stable ends
flush with the plastic. Protect your eyes, as
the small sharp metal strips can be ejected from the
repair area with considerable force. The repaired
area should be strong enough to support the
headlamp’s weight. Check that the rest of the lamp
again for damage that may allow moisture ingress,
before refitting it.
6
OUR LIGHTS WERE ALWAYS BRIGHT
NOW THEY’RE SMART AS WELL.
16 Car Mechanics
January 2023
Continued
on page
18
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LIGHTING
LED matrix headlamps are sealed, so you cannot renew
the LEDs officially – although some remanufacturing
companies have engineered solutions. This diagram
shows what lies inside the lamps fitted to the Audi Q7.
If you cannot verify which replacement bulb is suitable for your vehicle, you can use a variety of
online checker tools like this one from Hella: www.hella-bulbs.com/en/europe/car
Avoid touching the bulb’s glass envelope;
doing so damages both the bulb and
headlamp internals.
THE UNWELCOME GUEST...
 Condensation within lamps can be a menace, especially at this
time of year. This may not be a fault, but it can be due to the air’s
temperature and humidity. The lens and reflectors should be
unharmed by light condensation. When the lamp is switched on
for sufficiently long, the bulb warms the air and evaporates the
condensation that exits the lamp through ventilation slots within the
moulding. When the lamp is extinguished, the air cools and causes
humid air from the outside to be sucked back into the lamp, causing
condensation to form again. Yet, should water pool within the lamp,
as pictured, the weatherproofing seal between the lamp and glass
has likely failed. Check the wiring too, especially if the loom has been
repaired and the insulation has not been restored. Humidity enters
the wiring between the copper strands and the insulation sheathing
and can work its way into the lamp through capillary action.
OUR LIGHTS WERE ALWAYS BRIGHT
NOW THEY’RE SMART AS WELL.
18 Car Mechanics
January 2023
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Ben Hackney-Williams brings you another month
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CMA investigates completed merger
 The Competition and Markets
Authority has highlighted concerns
that a recent salvage merger will reduce
choice and limit access to salvage
vehicles for green parts.
Both Copart and Hills Motors’ salvage
services offered collection of damaged
vehicles from customers such as the
insurance industry, finance companies
and rentals, before managing any
onward sales, dismantling or scrapping.
As part of an ongoing investigation,
the CMA has found that Copart (the
largest supplier of salvage vehicles
in the UK) and Hills Motors are close
competitors, meaning that the
completed transaction could lead to a
loss of competition in supply of their
collective services.
Mini side car lift,
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The loss of this rivalry, including
its effect on the transaction on the
supply of green parts, could lead to
higher prices and reduced choice for
customers of salvage services, and even
reduce UK supply of green parts.
“It is important that salvage and
green parts services remain competitive
so that the many businesses in the UK
that rely on them benefit from lower
prices and higher quality services,”
explains Sorcha O’Carroll, senior director
of mergers at the CMA.
“Our investigation showed that
Copart’s purchase of Hills Motors takes
out an important player in the vehicle
salvage services industry and that few
competitors would be left in the market.
The transaction could also make it more
difficult for green parts suppliers to
purchase the vehicles they need, which
would reduce competition in that market.
“We will move to an in-depth
investigation unless the companies can
address our concerns.”
For more info and the latest updates,
visit www.gov.uk/cma-cases/copartslash-hills-motors-merger-inquiry
New kit from febi matching
OE quality
 febi and Blue Print have added new braking, clutch,
filter, steering and suspension products of OE-quality to
their ranges. Steering and suspension additions include the
introduction of a new axle beam mount for Volvo S60 (2019-),
V60 (2015-) and XC60 (2017-) models (part 177192).
New to the febiPLUS range is a parking brake switch to fit
BMW X5 (2006-2013) and X6 (2008-2014) cars.
Blue Print introductions include three new clutch kits;
with part ADBP300163 to fit Ford Kuga (2008-2012) models,
ADBP300072 to fit Mercedes-Benz Sprinter (2006-) vehicles, and
ADBP300037 to fit Audi A3 (2003-2013), SEAT Leon (2005-2020),
Skoda Octavia (2004-2020) and VW Golf (2008-2014) cars.
For more details on these new parts and other quality
febi and Blue Print components for your vehicle, use parent
company Bilstein Group’s advanced partsfinder platform
at partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com, for 360° illustrations,
technical videos,
POA
data sheets and OE
partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com
comparison numbers.
£358.80
cjautosheywood.co.uk
20 Car Mechanics
January 2023
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME
CM Insider
Have a new product to market? Send details to cm.ed@kelsey.co.uk
Halfords Retyrement Plan offering later life apprenticeships
 Set to invest £3.5 million in training and recruitment, Halfords is pushing to attract
returning retirees, more women, and other demographic opportunities to take up 1000
new automotive technician roles over the next 12 months.
With Britain’s ageing car fleet creating more demand, and times becoming harder for
anyone out of work, the brand sees an opportunity to rewire its workforce across its 600
garages and 700 vans while also doing good for communities.
“We have a big focus on people who left the workforce in recent years but are now
starting to return in these tough economic times,” explains Halfords CEO Graham
Stapleton. “We want to give people the best possible route to return to work. Becoming
a qualified automotive technician can be an incredibly satisfying second career.”
Dubbed its Retyrement Plan, Halfords is offering greater flexibility and an industry first
of opportunities for older people to complete apprenticeships. It’s also looking to offer
more opportunities to other potentials members in the new era of its workforce.
“We need to be ambitious and creative in the way we go about meeting the demand
for technicians,” continues Graham, speaking about the company’s desire to also encourage young people from disadvantaged
backgrounds into the industry. “I want us to be doing more to attract ex-offenders and people leaving the military, for example.”
News in Brief
All I want for Christmas is…
 PartsInMotion.co.uk
has you covered with this
year’s Christmas list. The
Ring Automotive’s Digital
Inflator (£36.92, RTC500),
designed with motorists
in mind. Autostop cuts the
inflator out at the pressure
that you’ve set, and you
can inflate a 13in tyre from
0psi to 35psi in just three
minutes.
Conquer the
cold snap
with Maypole
Booster Cables
20mm x 3m
Nylon Bag (£22.68,
3525B). Designed for
engines up to 4000cc, the
booster cables will help you
get back up and running
again. With the dark nights
drawn in, who wouldn’t
want up to 100% more
brightness and a 130m
longer beam? Two Osram
H4 Night Breaker Silver 100
bulbs (£13.74, 64193NBSHCB) offer a road legal
option to light the way. Last
but not least, whether it’s to
help the kids or just for your
own convenience, make the
most of your seat backs with
an Autocare Nylon Car Seat
Organiser (£10.14, AC1887).
Four pockets of storage
come with easy fastening
for keeping your car tidy on
long or short journeys.
A timeless classic:
70 years of Airfix
News in Brief
COVID and conflict causes
metal market madness
 Interest rates, inflation
and market instabilities are
adding further uncertainty to
the prices of precious metals
such as rhodium, used in the
manufacturing of catalytic
converters. One of the most
expensive platinum group
metals (PGMs) and one
of the rarest elements on
earth, rhodium prices have
always been volatile but
have soared by over 300% in
recent years. The record high
prices are also responsible
for the enormous increase
in catalytic converter thefts.
According to Berkshire
Live, at least 17 catalytic
converters were taken
from vehicles at Legoland
Windsor’s car park in just
two weeks. “Uncertainty
now hangs over the future
price direction of PGMs and
other materials,” explains
Mark Blinston, BM Catalysts
commercial director. “We’ve
been very effective with
our raw materials buying
strategy to help ensure we
shield customers as much
as possible from the direct
impact of these issues.”
 Airfix has been a
modelling staple for
decades, and there’s
something for any fan of
fettling through the vast
range of vehicles, aircraft, ships,
figures and all kinds of gift sets.
This year why not treat someone
(or yourself ) to the 39-part Bugatti
Chiron or the 23-part Jaguar
E-Type? Both are in 1:43 scale and
include all spruces, decals, paints,
glue and a brush in the box.
When it comes to youngsters
around the house, Christmas is
the time to swap Netflix for
Airfix, bonding with the kids
and reducing that screen time
that’s been creeping up over the
course of a year.
What’s more? To celebrate
70 years of Airfix, anyone who
purchases an Airfix Gift Set or
Starter Set through the Airfix
website until 31 January 2023
will automatically have the
opportunity to win a flight in an
authentic Spitfire in Summer 2023.
Clarke makes light
work of any task
 Super bright and perfectly practical, the
new Clarke PL5R Slim LED Work Light makes
illuminating hard to reach areas easy, and it comes
in two work modes. The dimmable floodlight offers
up to 400Lm, while in LED torch mode, you’ll get
80Lm of visibility.
£32.39
As if the magnetic
machinemart.co.uk
handle, magnetic base
and swivel clip didn’t
give enough ways of working, the head can also be
flipped or rotated up to 180°, meaning that you can
angle your illumination anywhere in tight spots.
You’ll get up to three hours of life from the
lithium-ion battery, too, which is easy to charge via
the USB charging lead and plug adapter.
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME
COMPETITION
WINNERS
Battery Chargers/
Starters
P Bray
J Pattison
I Child
Q The BC190 model has a
maximum slow/trickle
charge of?
A 38-amps
Car Mechanics
January 2023
21
Tales from
the workshop
Fixing advice from our garage proprietor Steve Rothwell
AUDI A6
Park/Neutral
switch trouble
The Park/Neutral switch is
located on the gear lever
shift assembly below the
centre console and was
the first area to check.
 By the time the customer had arrived at my door he had
already read off the code from his 2015 Audi A6 2.0 TDI
S-Tronic, which had triggered the engine management light
and had been frantically searching online for a solution to
the problem. The code he had retrieved was P0851 which was
indicating that the Park/Neutral position (PNP) switch - input
circuit was low.
Like many other codes, the description is not always a direct
answer to the problem, and although the code was indicating
the Park/Neutral position switch was the problem, the owner
didn’t want to spend out on the part if it wasn’t needed.
The code could have been the result of a poor circuit
caused by a wiring problem, and so the connecting plug and
circuits were the first points to check.
Once we could confirm that the switch assembly itself
which sits on the gear lever was the problem, this was
ordered up and fitted. Clearing the code, the owner was
pleased that the problem had now been rectified.
MITSUBISHI L200
FIAT PUNTO
Low battery, belt drive loss Knock gone
 Needing to jump-start the vehicle two days in a row, the
owner of this 2006 Mitsubishi L200 2.5 Diesel asked me to
check the alternator and battery, to see what was up.
Putting the meter on the battery it appeared to be charging
at a decent rate and so the next move was to turn on the lights
and heater blower to put a slight load on the system.
As soon as this was done, a light whining sound could be
heard, and the voltmeter dropped down below the 12V mark.
Switching off the engine and checking the drive belt, this
was certainly tight enough and should not have been slipping.
Checking a little deeper into the problem I discovered that
the crankshaft pulley which incorporates a torsional vibration
damper had failed, and the outer
pulley had separated from the rubber
connecting it to the centre of the
pulley. This was providing enough
friction most of the time, to charge
the battery, but when any load was
applied such as the lights or the
heater, the pulley slipped around and
failed to drive the alternator.
Once the new pulley was fitted
normal charging was resumed.
The inner and outer sections of the crankshaft pulley had separated
and were no longer transmitting sufficient drive to the belts.
22 Car Mechanics
January 2023
 Having replaced her aging
Fiat Punto with a newer 2014
Fiat Punto 0.9 TwinAir turbo
last year, I had not seen this
customer as regularly as
I used to. In fact, the regular
The link arm balljoint
had parted ways
visits to me were one of the
some time ago, and
reasons she decided to change the Fiat.
Hopefully not a reflection on me but the would have been the
original source of the
reliability of the old Fiat.
knocking noise.
It was now time to put the 2014 Fiat
through its MOT for the first time since she had owned it, and
she asked me to service it first. The only comment she made
was that when she had first purchased the TwinAir, there was
a light knock from the front. She had gone back to where she
had bought it, but they said they checked it over and it was
OK. The knock had got worse over the next few weeks, but
before she had a chance to take it back the knock disappeared.
Once I set about the service, I could see immediately the
source of the earlier knocking and why it had stopped. The
anti-roll bar link arm had severely corroded at the small
balljoint, which was what she heard knocking – it then simply
fell off meaning it was not in contact to knock. This of course
meant that the anti-roll bar was not effective, but thankfully
this customer is a gentle driver. A pair of new link arms were
fitted before the MOT meaning all went well.
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME
Tales from the Workshop
FORD FOCUS
The shattering of the
clutch cover I expect
was due to it suffering
from overheating prior
to the failure.
Red light
warning
BMW M3
Clutch and flywheel catastrophe
 This 1996 BMW M3 had covered just over 70,000 miles when it decided it was going nowhere
and its six-cylinder 3.2 engine with 321bhp, was not going to help drive it along. The owner had
felt a slight slipping before the failure but had not heeded the warning and kept driving in the
same manner as before.
I suspect this had involved a few quick off the line moments as when the gearbox on the M3
was removed, it was obvious from the bluing on the remains of the clutch cover that the clutch
had reached a high temperature before its demise.
I did recommend a new flywheel be fitted as well due to the temperatures which had been
present, and the owner did agree that this was a prudent move.
With the in-line configuration the gearbox can be removed and refitted with the new flywheel
and clutch in place, all in under four hours. This meant that with good parts availability the M3
was able to drive back out of the workshop under its own steam on the same day.
VOLKSWAGEN
TRANSPORTER
Creaking
suspension
The bush had been spinning
in the arm causing the
 Knocks from the suspension are one of
creaking from the suspension.
the top reasons that the vehicles arrive
at the workshop, but creaks do come a
close second. The creaking suspension on
this 2007 VW Transporter 2461cc TDI was
annoying the owner enough to ask me if
I would sort it out for him.
It can be quite common for the rubber
bushes in the suspension to creak after a
few years and I have known owners’ spray
round with WD40 or similar to silence the
noise. I personally prefer to use a silicone
lubricant spray for such cases, as the
WD40 can damage the rubber of the bush.
The creaking noise turned out to be from the bushes in the upper suspension arm
which were actually turning in the arm, so this is one creak that may have been silenced
but would not have been cured by a spray round with silicone lubricant.
A good spray of penetrating fluid was needed to free the fixings but once loosened off
and with the arm stripped off, the bushes could be replaced.
Once all back in position, the creak from the suspension had gone and the owner was
pleased with the end result.
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME
 The red ignition light has
always had the symbol of
a battery on it, and is often
referred to as the battery
light, but is of course the
charging indicator. It does not
inform of a poor battery but
of a poor battery charging
system. Yet I often get a call
asking if I can have a look at
the vehicle with a view to
changing the battery because
the battery light is on.
The owner of this late 2008
Ford Focus 1.8 petrol was
such a customer and when
the red light with a battery
symbol suddenly appeared,
it was presumed that the
battery had died. Luckily the
owner did take heed of the
light and stop immediately
calling out the recovery
service to relay the motor
back to my garage.
When it arrived the
recovery driver had already
opened the bonnet and
revealed the source of the
problem which was the
alternator drive belt which
was no longer in position.
He hadn’t gone any further
at this point and just closed
the bonnet and relayed the
motor along to me.
Looking for a reason for
the lost belt, I discovered
that the belt tensioner
bearing had seized up,
causing the problems.
A new belt and tensioner
were ordered up and the job
completed by putting out
the little red light without
the need for a new battery.
The top belt tensioner bearing had
failed and caused the belt to come
adrift – with a new tensioner and
belt normal service was resumed.
Car Mechanics
January 2023
23
Tales from the Workshop
VAUXHALL CORSA
Failed bush
VOLKSWAGEN CADDY
The inner section of the bush had totally parted with the
outer and the result was the squeaking sound the owner
had heard, once the new bush was fitted all was well.
Washer
bottle mix up
 This little 2006 Vauxhall
Corsa 1.3 diesel had been
suffering from a creaking
noise for a little while, but
now it was MOT time, and
so the owner was confident
that anything that needed
doing to sort the problem
out would be checked out
during the test.
She wasn’t wrong and the source of the noise
which was a failed rear bush on the offside front
lower arm, was soon spotted during the test.
Stripping off the arm, the bush was found to
be totally separated from the outside metal and
was certainly in need of replacement.
Normally when removing the old bush, the
worst part of the job is getting the rubber centre
out, to then be able to put a saw cut through the
outer section to allow easy removal. Though, on
this one, as the centre had already removed itself,
the job went quite smoothly and the Corsa was
soon ready for the retest, and now squeak-free.
MERCEDES ECLASS
Wrong fuel
problem
Draining the system down totally was important to
ensure none of the petrol got into the injection system.
 The owner of this 2004
Mercedes-Benz E320 CDI
Avangarde had owned the
vehicle for five years now,
before that he had owned an
older E320 Mercedes diesel,
and so had not owned a
petrol vehicle for at least the
last fifteen years.
This though did not stop
him from pulling up at the
fuel pump and using the
green petrol nozzle to add
fuel – only when the pump
clicked off as the tank became full did he realise what he had done.
He was only a short distance from my garage and so decided to call out his brother to
tow him along. He did think he was doing the right thing by not stating the engine, but
having turned the ignition on he had allowed the in-tank fuel pump to send a little of the
petrol mixed fuel along the fuel lines.
Admittedly this was not a lot, but enough that I was happier disconnecting the fuel
line from underneath to ensure that all the petrol had been removed from the system
before putting in any fresh diesel.
With the system totally drained down and a new fuel filter fitted the Mercedes, it was
refilled with diesel and bled through.
With the cost of fuel now, this was a very expensive mistake, and hopefully not one my
customer will make again.
24 Car Mechanics
January 2023
 Recently part exchanging
his 2007 VW Caddy van for
a much newer 2017 model
this customer was full of
enthusiasm for looking after
his new van. He checked
the oil and coolant and
even decided to top-up
the washer bottle, but then
realised that he could see
another washer bottle filler,
and at this point became
concerned that he may have
made a serious mistake.
After a panicky phone
call, I told him not to start
the engine and I would pop
along and have a look.
When I arrived, the bonnet
was up and he pointed out
where he had put the washer
fluid – this was the cap
clearly marked AdBlue. He
pointed out that he thought
the AdBlue filler points were
always near the fuel filler or in
the boot, which is not the case.
The tank needed to be
drained down, as although
no great damage would be
done by the washer fluid,
the system would recognise
that the fluid was not AdBlue
and the error message
would appear causing a
non-start situation.
Once drained down and
refilled, the system was reset
and the owner was now
aware of the top up points
under the bonnet.
The blue cap at first appeared
to be the windscreen washer
reservoir, but it was the cap for
the AdBlue tank on the Caddy.
Follow Steve on Twitter:
www.twitter.com/cmtips
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Tool Chest
or Tool kit
CBB209C
RRP £203.98 inc VAT
COMPETITION
2
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worth more than
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For the ultimate in terms of tool storage and at
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 Multi ball bearing drawer runners for a super smooth
sliding action
 All drawers feature full width aluminium pull handles
and protective anti-slip liners
 All drawers lock simultaneously when top lid is closed –
secured by single tumbler style lock (2 keys)
 Dimensions (inc handles) – (WxDxH): 710x315x420mm
 Weight: 28.34kg
CHT862
RRP £143.98 inc VAT
1
1
to be
WON!
to be
WON!
235pc Mechanics
Tool Kit
Ideal for the home garage, this mechanics’ tool kit
contains a comprehensive selection of the most popular
DIY garage tools, housed within a sturdy two-drawer
metal tool chest. Tools and sockets are produced from
heat treated Carbon Steel and screwdriver bits are
produced from high-quality Chrome Vanadium Steel.
See machinemart.co.uk for more details of contents.
HOW TO ENTER: Entry is free. ONLY ONE ENTRY PER HOUSEHOLD PLEASE. The first correct entry drawn
will win the tool chest, the next drawn will win the tool kit. No correspondence can be entered into. Closing date
for entries is February 1, 2023. Results will be published in the March 2023 issue, due out February 17, 2023.
To enter this competition simply go to the website below and input your details
Please visit our website
https://bit.ly/3Fo3wzk
and follow the instructions on the page to enter the Clarke competition
Type the above into a browser address line and NOT a search engine
Car Mechanics magazine will only use the data you supply on your entry to contact you if you are the winner. The winner’s details will be passed on to Clarke International Ltd for
the sole purpose of organising the delivery of your prize. All competition entries will be held securely until the prize draw has been made and then securely disposed of within seven
days of the winners being chosen. The winners’ details will be held for a period of one month until the prize has been dispatched and received, then they will be securely disposed of.
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36" 5 Dr Cabinet 927x416x985 £439.00 £526.80
41" 8 Dr cabinet 1126x468x1000 £619.00 £742.80
41" 14 Dr chest 1045x415x486 £389.00 £466.80
56" 9 Dr chest 1460x615x490 £659.00 £790.80
56" 13 Dr cabinet 1503x622x1011 £979.00 £1174.80
FROM ONLY
DOUBLE
42
EXC.VAT
FOOTER
£51.59
inc.VAT
£ DOUBLE
.99
1.5M TALL
£99.98
£94.99
£154.99
£154.99
£179.98
£209.98
£119.98
£113.99
£185.99
£185.99
£215.98
£251.98
£79.98
£147.99
£269.98
£309.00
£95.98
£177.59
£323.98
£370.80
BEST
5 DRAWER
SELLER
WORKBENCH
2
179
£ FROM ONLY
.98
DOUBLEEXC.VAT
DOUBLE
£215.98 FOOTER
inc.VAT
“Very sturdy. Ideal for any
workshop or garage.
Ample storage”
See www.machinemart.co.uk
CHOICE OF 5 COLOURS
GREAT LOOKING,
BIG 5” INDUSTRIAL
CHROME SPOKED
WHEELS FOR EASY
MOVEMENT*
exc.VAT inc.VAT
150
350
PER SHELF
PER SHELF
Dims
exc. inc.
Model WxDxH(mm)
VAT VAT
150kg 800x300x1500 £42.99 £51.59
350kg 900x400x1800 £59.98 £71.98
EXTRA LONG
339
.00
CWB1700P £ FROM ONLY
DOUBLEEXC.VAT
DOUBLE
£406.80 FOOTER
inc.VAT
1700mm WORK TOP
DRILL
PRESSES
TURBO AIR COMPRESSORS
8/260
Range of precision bench
& floor presses for
enthusiast, engineering &
industrial applications
Superb range
ideal for DIY,
hobby & semiprofessional use
Britain's Tools &
£155.98 inc.VAT
Model Motor CFM Tank
8/260
2HP 7.5 24ltr
11/260 2.5HP 9.5 24ltr
8/550
2HP 7.5 50ltr
11/550 2.5HP 9.5 50ltr
16/550
3HP 14.5 50ltr
16/1050 3HP 14.5 100ltr
exc.VAT
£129.98
£149.98
£179.98
£209.98
£279.00
£349.98
inc.VAT
£155.98
£179.98
£215.98
£251.98
£334.80
£419.98
INDUSTRIAL AIR
COMPRESSORS
Machinery Specialist!
T
27
£FROM ONLY
.99
WORKSHOP
AIR TOOLS
JUMP STARTS
DOUBLE
EXC.VAT
DOUBLE
FOOTER
£33.59
inc.VAT
PGF14
94
CAT131
BEST
69
£FROM ONLY
.98
DOUBLE
EXC.VAT
DOUBLE
FOOTER
£83.98
inc.VAT
SELLER
HUGE CHOICE
IN-STORE/ONLINE
EXTRA
LONG 1m
LEADS
Peak
Model
Boost
910
900
JS1100C 1100
STARTS VEHICLES 4000
1500
UP TO 6L
JS12/24 1000
BEST
SELLER
CAR CREEPERS
• Oil resistant vinyl covered padded
backs & headrests • Swivel castors
for easy manoeuvrability
†V-Twin *230V
FROM
ONLY
HEADER
.00
589EXC.VAT
AIR.
£706.80 inc.VAT
MODEL
XEV16/100 (OL)†*
XEV16/150 (OL)†*
XEV16/200(OL)†*
XEV16/150(400V)†
XE18/200 (OL)†*
XE36C200†
XE29/270†*
XE37/270 (OL)†*
SE46C270†
DISP MOTOR
CFM (HP)
14
3
14
3
14
3
14
3
18
4
30 7.5HP
28 2X3HP
36 2x 4
40 10HP
AIR
RCVR
100ltr
150ltr
200ltr
150ltr
200ltr
200Ltr
270Ltr
270ltr
270Ltr
EXC.VAT INC.VAT
£589.00 £706.80
£659.00 £790.80
£719.00 £862.80
£699.00 £838.80
£759.00 £910.80
£1189.00 £1426.80
£1389.00 £1666.80
£1459.00 £1750.80
£2079.00 £2494.80
AXLE STANDS
Ratchet action
ONLY
for quick height £FROM
.99
DOUBLE
adjustment
DOUBLE
17
EXC.VAT
FOOTER
inc.VAT
Sold in pairs £21.59
*Aluminium
Max Min/Max
Model
Tons
Height
exc.VAT
CAX2TFB
2 235-360mm £17.99
CAX3TPB
3 325-490mm £33.99
CAX-3TBC 3 300-430mm £31.99
CAX-6TBC 6 400-615mm £48.99
CAX3TAB* 3 295-395mm £59.98
inc.VAT
£21.59
£40.79
£38.39
£58.79
£71.98
GARAGES/WORKSHOPS
FROM
ONLY
HEADER
.00
289EXC.VAT
£
IDEAL FOR RAIN &
SUN PROTECTION
£346.80 inc.VAT
LENGTH
UP TO
40'
74
DOUBLE
EXC.VAT
FOOTER
£89.99
inc.VAT
through 360˚
Fully tested to
proof load
B = Bench
mounted
F = Floor
standing
Model
Tonnes exc.VAT
CTJ2GLS
2 £269.00
FROM
ONLY
HEADER
£
.00 CTJ3GLS
269EXC.VAT CTJ5GLS 35 £349.00
£469.00
£322.80 inc.VAT CTJ10GLS 10 £639.00
inc.VAT
£322.80
£418.80
£562.80
£766.80
High quality tungsten steel
Supplied in metal
storage case (except
16pce)
FROM ONLY
£ DOUBLE
.99
DOUBLE
EXC.VAT
FOOTER
£27.59
inc.VAT
22
DIAGNOSTICS
29
DOUBLE
EXC.VAT
FOOTER
£35.98
inc.VAT
AWD1
PRO EOBD FAULT
CODE READER
Model
exc.VAT inc.VAT
£29.98 £35.98
EOBD Fault Code Reader
Professional Engine Diagnostic & £87.99 £105.59
EOBD/OBD ll Fault Code Reader
2 & 3 TONNE
TROLLEY JACKS
FROM ONLY
129 EXC.VAT
exc.VAT
£129.98
£109.98
£199.98
£179.98
inc.VAT
£155.98
£131.98
£239.98
£215.98
£FROM ONLY
.99
DOUBLE
79
EXC.VAT
DOUBLE
FOOTER
£95.98
inc.VAT
£FROM ONLY
.98
CP185
JACKS ALSO IN
STOCK UP TO 5 TONNE
HEAVY DUTY
PETROL
POWER
NEW
WASHERS
PLS265B
Dual action
combines rotary &
orbital motions to
produce an excellent
polished finish
CP150
150MM
PAD DIA.
69
£FROM ONLY
.98
DOUBLE
EXC.VAT
DOUBLE
FOOTER
£83.98
inc.VAT
CAN
DRAW
OWN
WATER
FROM
ONLY
HEADER
.00
279EXC.VAT
£
£334.80 inc.VAT
Model
Tiger1800B
Tiger2600B
Tiger3000B
PLS195B
PLS220
PLS265B
PLS360
Pressure Engine
BAR/Psi HP exc.VAT inc.VAT
£279.00 £334.80
110/1595
3
£399.00 £478.80
180/2610
4
200/2900 6.5 £419.00 £502.80
180/2640 5.5 £529.00 £634.80
£699.00 £838.80
230/3335
9
225/3263 13 £799.00 £958.80
248/3600 13 £998.00 £1197.60
579
£ FROM ONLY
.00
DOUBLEEXC.VAT
DOUBLE
£694.80 FOOTER
inc.VAT
HARRY 2
HOT WEIGHS
ONLY
WASH 27KG
145 Bar
2103 psi
PARTS
WASHERS
FROM ONLY
62
£ DOUBLE
.99
DOUBLE
EXC.VAT
FOOTER
£75.59
inc.VAT
CW2D
.98
189EXC.VAT
£
CW1D
£227.98 inc.VAT
320
INC 17, 19,
21, 22MM
SOCKETS
& CASE
exc.VAT
£62.99
£159.98
£209.98
£239.98
inc.VAT
£75.59
£191.98
£251.98
£287.98
10 TONNE BODY
REPAIR KIT
ONLY
HEADER
.98
179EXC.VAT
£
Type
Bench
Floor
Floor
Floor
£215.98 inc.VAT
FAST ACTION
PUMP
CS10SBRK
Ideal for
garage mechanics
Nm
18V ½"
IMPACT
WRENCHES
3 forward and
reverse gears
FROM ONLY
£ DOUBLE
.99
DOUBLE
EXC.VAT
FOOTER
£68.39
inc.VAT
56
inc.VAT Fast
£68.39 snap connector attachments for quick & easy as£89.99 sembly Hydraulic pump, ram & hose with various
tubes, pieces & connectors Includes metal case
BEST
SELLER
450NM
1 TONNE
FOLDING
WORKSHOP
CRANE
BRUSHLESS
FROM ONLY
£ DOUBLE
.98
DOUBLE
EXC.VAT
FOOTER
£119.98
inc.VAT
99
Inc. hook &
pad and
wool polishing
bonnet
inc.VAT
£119.94
£139.14
£251.98
£322.80
£418.80
£418.80
£946.80
FROM
ONLY
HEADER
180MM loop backing
PAD DIA.
CTJ2250LP
Model
Type
Tonne exc.VAT inc.VAT
£44.99 £53.99
CTJ2L
Long
2
£46.99 £56.39
CTJ2000LPB DIY Low Profile 2
CTJ2250LP* Low Profile 2.25 £52.99 £63.59
CTJ3000GB Pro Garage
3 £109.98 £131.98
CTJ3000QLB Quick Lift
3 £119.98 £143.98
CTJ2QLP
Low Quick Lift 2 £162.99 £195.59
* CTJ2250LP has a 2.25 tonne capacity, has a
low entry of only 80mm and includes 2 sockets
INCLUDES
SANDBLASTING GUN,
DELIVERY HOSE, 4
CERAMIC NOZZLES
AND SAFETY HOOD
EXC.VAT
DOUBLE
£80.39 inc.VAT
PER PAIR
PRO SANDER/
POLISHERS
LOW
ENTRY
ONLY
85MM
DOUBLE
£129.98 FOOTER
inc.VAT
Max
Engine exc.VAT
£39.98
3L
£55.99
4L
£69.98
6L
£87.99
6L
£99.98
6L
Model
Power Torque exc.VAT
CEW520 1/2" 520W 320Nm £56.99
CEW1000 1/2" 1000W 450Nm £74.99
Four non-marking castors for easy
movement in confined spaces Heavy duty steel
construction - load rating 500kg per dolly
44
FROM ONLY
.98
DOUBLE
66
BIG
3" CASTORS
DOUBLE
EXC.VAT
FOOTER
£53.99
inc.VAT
£
Peak
Boost
360A
400A
500A
500A
800A
exc.VAT
£99.95
£115.95
£209.98
£269.00
£349.00
£349.00
£789.00
Honda &
Diesel
engine
models
in stock
39
JSM200
Tank Flow Rate
Model
Volume Req.
exc.VAT
Type
exc.VAT inc.VAT CPSB100B 32 litre 6-25 cfm £189.98
£24.99 £29.99 CPSB200B 63 litre 6-25 cfm £249.00
CHT203 16pce Metric
£22.99 £27.59
CHT302 24pce UNC/UNF/NPT
£29.98 £35.98
CHT303 28pce Metric
CORDED IMPACT
CHT304 33pce Metric/UNF/BSP £36.99 £44.39
WRENCHES
£54.99 £65.99
CHT527 32pce Metric
CHT775 52pce Metric/UNF/BSP £59.98 £71.98
CEW520
£79.98 £95.98
CHT776 76pce Metric
AUTOMOTIVE
WHEEL DOLLY SET
FROM ONLY
£ DOUBLE
.98
Motor (W)
Speeds
350 / 5
350 / 5
450 / 12
450 / 16
550 / 16
550 / 16
1100 / 12
FROM ONLY
£ DOUBLE
.98
DOUBLE
EXC.VAT
FOOTER
£47.98
inc.VAT
Power packs
Model
JSM180
JSM200
JSM300
JSM350
JSM400
inc.VAT
£116.39
£113.99
£197.99
£215.98
CDP102B
Model Tank Cap.
CW2D
10Ltrs
45Ltrs
inc.VAT CW1D
£227.98 CWM20 22.5Ltrs
75Ltrs
£298.80 CW40
£ DOUBLE
.99
CTJ1250AC
Model
Lifting Cap.
CTJ1250AC
1.25T
CTJ1500QL
1.5T
CTJ1800AB
1.8T
CTJ2500QLGB
2.5T
32723LH
TAP & DIE SETS
CAR RAMPS
• Lift cars safely
and quickly
FROM ONLY
• Tough
£ DOUBLE
.98
39inc.VAT
EXC.VAT
angled
DOUBLE
PER
£47.98
steel
PER PAIR
construction
Model Capacity exc.VAT inc.VAT
CR2
2000kg £39.98 £47.98
CRW25 2500kg £47.99 £57.59
ALUMINIUM
RACING JACKS
Quick lift Non-marking
nylon wheels
Rubber contact
pad - helps
protect vehicle
undersides
exc.VAT
£96.99
£94.99
£164.99
£179.98
model
CDP5EB
CDP102B
CDP152B
CDP202B
CDP352F
CDP452B
CDP502F
inc.VAT
£47.98
exc.
£67.19
O
39
ALS MECHANICS
£83.98
Model
Capacity
VAT inc.VAT
SEAT ONLY £45.59
£105.59
£74.99
£89.99 *Folds for
CES340
340kg
£119.98
£87.99 £105.59 storage
CES450
450kg
Model
Description
exc.VAT inc.VAT CES560
560kg £109.98 £131.98
£39.98 £47.98 CES680F 680kg £139.98 £167.98
CMC36
Car creeper
CMC45 With adjustable headrest £56.99 £68.39
CMC60 Car creeper reclining £53.99 £64.79
BATTERY CHARGERS INTELLIGENT
seat & mechanics seat
/ENGINE STARTERS
BATTERY
Ammeter
BC210C
CHARGER/
ANGLE GRINDERS Multi-position
charge regulator
MAINTAINERS
INC. DISC
CON1150
Overload
FROM ONLY
& HANDLE
£ DOUBLE
.98
protection
DOUBLE
19
EXC.VAT
IBC20
on charging
FOOTER
£23.98
inc.VAT
FROM ONLY
cycle
‡ WAS £59.98 inc.VAT
£ DOUBLE
.98
FROM
ONLY
DOUBLE
29
EXC.VAT
£ DOUBLE
.99
Max.
FOOTER
£35.98
inc.VAT
DOUBLE
93
EXC.VAT
Model
Volts Charge
exc.VAT inc.VAT
FOOTER
£112.79
inc.VAT
Model
Disc (mm) Motor exc.VAT
inc.VAT
£19.98
£23.98
IBC4
6/12V
1A/4A
£35.98
CAG800B
115
800W £29.98
£45.99
£55.19
IBC7‡
12/24V
7A
Msx Amps
£43.19
CON1150
115 1150W £35.99
£49.98
£59.98
IBC15
12V
15A
£83.98 Model Charge/Boost exc.VAT inc.VAT
CAG2350C
230 2350W £69.98
£69.98
£83.98
IBC20
12/24V
20A
£93.99 £112.79
BC125
20/120
£97.99 £117.59
IBC25
12/24V
25A
HEAVY
£112.99 £135.59
BC190
38/180
£149.98 £179.98
BC210C
25/200
DUTY
SANDBLASTERS
£175.99 £211.19
WBC180
35/180
LONG REACH
£194.99 £233.99
WBC240
45/240
Heavy duty steel construction
JACKS
£239.00
£286.80
WBC400
60/350
sandblasters for the quick
CTJ2GLS
£259.00 £310.80
BC520P
50/510
removal of surface rust, paint,
dirt/grease etc.
CPSB100B
FROM ONLY
£ DOUBLE
.98
DOUBLE
EXC.VAT
FOOTER
£47.98
inc.VAT
BRIGHT WHITE
INTERIOR
Ideal for use as a garage/
workshop Extra tough triple
layer cover Heavy duty powder ZIP CLOSE DOOR
‡ WAS £1390.80 inc.VAT
coated steel tubing
Ratchet tight tensioning # WAS £3900.00 inc.VAT
Model
size (LxWxH)
exc.VAT inc.VAT
CIG81212 3.6 x 3.6 x 2.5m £289.00 £346.80
CIG81015
4.5 x 3 x 2.4m £309.00 £370.80
CIG81216 4.9 x 3.7 x 2.5m £359.00 £430.80
CIG81020
6.1 x 3 x 2.4m £389.00 £466.80
CIG81220 6.1 x 3.7 x 2.5m £429.00 £514.80
CIG81224 7.3 x 3.7 x 2.5m £539.00 £646.80
CIG1432‡ 9.7x4.3x3.65m £1099.00 £1318.80
CIG1640#
12x4.9x4.3m £2998.00 £3597.60
Max
Engine
3L
3L
6L
8L
ENGINE MICRO
STANDS JUMP
Rotates
STARTS
FROM ONLY
£ DOUBLE
.99
CES680F
XEV16/100
Provides essential home,
garage and roadside
assistance Integral
work light 910 includes
air compressor Long life
battery
FROM ONLY
£ DOUBLE
.99
DOUBLE
EXC.VAT
FOOTER
£116.39
inc.VAT
Top quality belt driven air compressors for industrial &
commercial users inc; garages, factories, workshops
and farms. 10 bar/150psi max working pressure
£
99
FROM
ONLY
HEADER
.98
129EXC.VAT
£
FROM ONLY
£ DOUBLE
.95
DOUBLE
EXC.VAT
FOOTER
£119.94
inc.VAT
SUPERSTORES
NATIONWIDE
CIR18LIC
2 2AH
X
Model
Desc Batteries exc.VAT inc.VAT
CCIW160 Cordless 2X 2AH £99.98 £119.98
LI-ION
CIR18LIC Cordless, 2X 2AH £119.00 £142.80
Brushless LI-ION
ONLY
HEADER
.98
239EXC.VAT
£
£287.98 inc.VAT
Fully tested
to proof load
Folding and fixed
frames available
Robust, rugged
construction
Overload safety valve
CFC100
PAY Monthly
VER
NOW O
Spread the cost over 12,
24, 36, 48 or 60 months
Any mix of products
over £300
5 MIN
14.9% APR,
APPLICATION!
10% Deposit*
TURBO FAN GAS
HEATERS
Offering low cost,
efficient heating
110
VOLT
For 15,000 hard-tofind, specialist items
visit the
94
Model
Little Devil II
Devil 700
Devil 900
Devil 1600
Devil 2100
Devil 4000
Max. Output
kW
10.3
15
24.9
36.6
49.8
131
FROM ONLY
£ DOUBLE.00
229inc.VAT
EXC.VAT
DOUBLE
£274.80 FOOTER
PROPANE
GAS FIRED
exc.VAT
£94.99
£116.99
£159.98
£189.98
£269.00
£479.00
inc.VAT
£113.99
£140.39
£191.98
£227.98
£322.80
£574.80
DIESEL/PARAFFIN
HEATERS
Ideal for fast
efficient
heating
Extra-long
run fuel tanks
– up to 53 litres
Variable heat output
with thermostat control
model MAX output exc.VAT
£229.00
XR60
14.7kW
£279.00
XR80
20.5kW
£329.00
XR110
29.3kW
£419.00
XR160
46.9kW
£479.00
XR210
61.5kW
XR80
inc.VAT
£274.80
£334.80
£394.80
£502.80
£574.80
section on
BRITAIN’S NO. 1 FOR WELDING
2kW
FAN
FROM ONLY
.99
DOUBLE
HEATERS £36
DOUBLE
EXC.VAT
Max.
Output kW exc.VAT inc.VAT
£36.99 £44.39
2
£43.99 £52.79
2.8
£56.99 £68.39
2.8
Model
Devil 2000PTC
Devil 2850
Devil 2800PTC
MIG GAS/NO GAS WELDERS
ELECTRIC
HEATERS
BEST
“Excellent machine and exactly
as described. Easy to set up
and comes with everything you
need to start welding straight
out of the box”
294
SELLER
FROM ONLY
69
£ DOUBLE
.98
DEVIL
7003
DOUBLE
EXC.VAT
FOOTER
£83.98
inc.VAT
Heat
Model
Voltage Output
Devil 6003 230V 1.5-3kW
Devil 7003 230V
3kW
Devil 7005 400V
5kW
Devil 6009 400V 4.5-9kW
Devil 7009 400V
9kW
Devil 6015 400V 5-10-15kW
Devil 7015 400V
15kW
exc.VAT
£69.98
£76.99
£98.99
£124.99
£152.99
£189.98
£229.98
150AMPS
inc.VAT
£83.98
£92.39
£118.79
£149.99
£183.59
£227.98
£275.98
MIG145
239
£ FROM ONLY
.00
DOUBLEEXC.VAT
DOUBLE
£286.80 FOOTER
inc.VAT
SOCKET SETS
Top quality chrome
PRO360
vanadium steel.
18 Sockets 8-32mm
Reversible ratchet
Comfort grip handle
ONLY
DOUBLE
EXC.VAT GUARANTEE
FOOTER
£35.98
inc.VAT
135TE
130AMPS
exc. VAT
£144.99
£179.00
£239.00
£239.98
£279.00
£294.99
£259.98
£499.00
£489.00
£539.00
inc.VAT
£173.99
£214.80
£286.80
£287.98
£334.80
£353.99
£311.98
£598.80
£586.80
£646.80
• Compact & lightweight
• Efficient inverter technology
• Variable output
29
DOUBLE
EXC.VAT
FOOTER
£35.98
inc.VAT
HYDRAULIC
PRESSES
PROFESSIONAL QUALITY
Built for tough daily use
in automotive/industrial
workshops
* Available with/without 7
CDP102B pce pin, bracket & pressing
plate kit safety screen
# Economy
BEST
model
94
£FROM ONLY
.99
DOUBLE
EXC.VAT
DOUBLE
FOOTER
£113.99
inc.VAT
CSA4B
INC.
ELECTRODE
HOLDER,
EARTH
CLAMP, &
BRUSH/
HAMMER
219
£ FROM ONLY
.98
SELLER
BENCH BUFFERS/
POLISHERS
DOUBLEEXC.VAT
DOUBLE
£263.98 FOOTER
inc.VAT
ACCESSORIES
AUTO
DARKENING
WELDING
HEADSHIELDS
HUGE
RANGE!
GWH4
FROM ONLY
£ DOUBLE
.99
DOUBLE
EXC.VAT
FOOTER
£101.99
inc.VAT
Min/Max Electrode
Output
Dia.
Current (mm)
20A-80A 1.6-2.5
10A-130A 2.5/3.2
10A-160A 2.5/3.2/4.0
10A-130A 2.5/3.2
10A-160A 2.5/3.2/4.0
FROM ONLY
GAS
69
£ DOUBLE
.98
DOUBLE
EXC.VAT
FOOTER
£83.98
inc.VAT
DOUBLE
EXC.VAT
FOOTER
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PART THREE: Our 2008 Panda 100HP was
getting near to needing a timing belt renewal.
Easy or tricky? With one proviso and no special
tools, it’s very doable. Andrew Everett reports.
I
’ve always wondered why some
manufacturers make a timing belt
change such a drama – I’m looking at
you, VW Group. Their 1.4 petrol has
two belts and a tensioning procedure that
would baffle Einstein and to what end?
Timing belts should be easy like they used
to be – engines like the Ford Pinto and
CVH, Vauxhall OHC and VW’s of old.
Luckily Fiat kept it nice and simple
with the FIRE engine and in cars like the
Uno and Tipo, a belt change could be
done in not much more than hour.
Our Panda has had a belt before
at 51,000 miles so it wasn’t far off
needing another one. I decided to take
our 100HP over to Parkside Autos in
Worksop – a BMW specialist who seem
to be able to fix anything.
The good news is that in old-school
style, the timing belt is a nice easy one.
You don’t need locking tools although
the £10 tensioner adjusting fork is
pretty useful and hardly expensive. Long
story short: if you’re handy at timing
belts you’ll do one of these in a morning
– although getting the engine mount
bracket off is a right cow.
TIMING BELT SWAP
JOBS LIST
✓
RENEW
DAMPERS
Part 2
DEC 22
✓
RENEW FRONT
DISCS & PADS
Part 2
DEC 22
✓
RENEW REAR
WHEEL BEARING
Part 2
DEC 22
✖
TIMING BELT AND
WATER PUMP
Part 3
JAN 23
✖
✖
✖
SORT BODYWORK ISSUES
ENGINE SERVICE
RENOVATE INTERIOR
 The first job is to remove
the air filter assembly. Simple
enough with just three 10mm
bolts securing the filter box to the
engine and there are two intakes to
disconnect – one is a simple push
fit, the other has a snap on clip –
and I replaced this with a proper
worm drive clip.
1
 Now we must remove the
plastic upper timing belt cover.
This upper 13mm bolt is easy enough
to get to and remove but the other
one is down the front – a 10mm bolt
that is slightly trickier to get at. Even
so, with a quick dose of penetrating
fluid we had it out in no time.
2
 Worth mentioning here is
the small section of engine
wiring loom that goes to a sensor,
and it’s tucked in behind the belt
cover. We thought discretion was
the better part of valour, so we
carefully pulled it back out of the
way as seen here.
3
 With that done, the upper
belt cover unclips and can be
lifted out of the way. Now we could
see that there were no oil leaks
from the camshaft oil seal – this
isn’t a bad unit for oil leaks unlike
the majority of German engines
that seem to leak oil for fun.
4
30 Car Mechanics
January 2023
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME
CM project 2008 Fiat Panda 1.4 100HP
With the cover off we can see a few things. The most alarming
being a nick in the timing belt – you can just see it under that bit
of tape on the wiring loom. There is also a grove worn in the belt – we
suspect a slightly ham-fisted job was made of the last belt swap.
Remove the driver’s side front wheel and you will see the front
arch liner as well as this section that covers the lower part of the
engine. It’s secured to the body by a few cross-headed self-tapping
screws and is very easy to remove.
With the cover off we can see the crankshaft pulley/damper, as well
as the auxiliary belt that drives the alternator and air-conditioning
pump and its tensioner. The water pump is driven by the timing belt and
these Fiats have electric power steering – no pump – or oil leaks.
To remove the auxiliary belt, use a decently long spanner (13mm
in this case) and turn it clockwise to deflect the pulley down and
detension the belt in order to remove it. Our belt was well past its sell
by date, but the tensioner was still fine. We’re fitting a new one though.
5
7
Next, the crankshaft pulley must be
removed and that’s just three 13mm
bolts that on reassembly are nipped up to
just 25Nm – a dab of threadlock is never a
bad idea either. With the bolts out, carefully
lever the pulley off – ours came off easily.
9
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME
6
8
The lower belt cover is secured by this
10mm bolt here – plus another further
up on some engines. It locates via a tab into
the engine mount bracket that can make it
a bit tricky to refit due to limited access but
honestly, it’s not a problem.
10
This photo shows the crankshaft TDC
sensor if you ever need to replace it.
The wiring clips into that slot on the righthand side of the lower timing belt cover so
make sure you unclip it – once this is done,
the belt cover can be removed.
11
Car Mechanics
January 2023
31
CM project 2008 Fiat Panda 1.4 100HP
TIMING BELT SWAP CONTINUED
The belt cover is still fitted here but this photo shows how to set the
crank on this engine – apparently the 1.2 engine is different. The
steel ruler is parallel with the TDC sensor, across the right-hand bolt hole
as well as the pulley locating pin. Turn the crank on the bolt clockwise.
12
the dreaded engine mount – the
14 Now
difficult bit. There is always one. Start
by removing the bolts that secure the steel
side bit to the inner wing, torqued to 60Nm.
The engine won’t try to drop but you will
need a jack under the sump for the next bit.
Back up top again, remove the two 10mm bolts that secure the
coolant reservoir to the inner wing bracket and carefully move
it over to the right-hand side – you might want to use a couple of long
cable ties to secure it out of the way.
13
a jack and a block of wood under
15 With
the sump raised just slightly to take
the weight, remove these three 17mm nuts
torqued to 50Nm. Now you can lift off the
complete engine mount, leaving the lower bit
on the side of the engine in place.
Now the real fun. The 1.4 Punto engine
and six-speed gearbox is basically too
wide for the Panda. Removing the six(!) bolts
securing this mount to the engine is one thing,
but getting the mount out appears impossible.
By jacking the engine as high as possible you
can only just remove it – it’s a real swine.
16
 But get it out we
did, revealing the side
of the engine. Despite being a
twin-cam unit there is just one
cam pulley and a very simple
tensioner. Officially you are
supposed to use locking tools,
but Gez at Parkside is ex-Fiat
and never used them. Tippex
is all you require.
17
 Here’s that Tippex
in action, marking the
camshaft pulley to the head.
The cam won’t spring around
when the belt is detensioned
and there’s none of that
nonsense of slackening the
pulley bolt so it can move
around. They’re easy to do
without locking tools.
18
32 Car Mechanics
January 2023
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME
CM project 2008 Fiat Panda 1.4 100HP
 We elected to
replace the auxiliary
belt tensioner assembly
whilst we were in here,
but it was still in perfect
condition – if it were my
car, I’d have left it. Original
Fiat tensioners are bolted
to the block with an Allen
bolt – ours was 5mm but
they can differ. It’s a fiddly
bolt to remove.
19
 This is the original
tensioner with the
new INA manufactured
replacement. The main
difference is that the
awkward Allen bolt has
been replaced by a 13mm
bolt that is much easier
to refit and tighten to
25Nm. We couldn’t find
an official figure.
20
the timing set up, slacken
21 With
and remove the 13mm nut on the
tensioner pulley stud. The belt will go slack
and then remove both that and the tensioner
pulley. Apart from that nick in the belt, the
old belt was in decent enough condition.
photo of the new tensioner shows
22 This
the two small holes that a tensioning
tool fits into. These cost a tenner on eBay and
are worth having. You can also use a stout
pair of angled circlip pliers to much the same
effect – or careful use of gas pliers.
The water pump is the next thing to
remove, and it’s held in with three
10mm bolts and a 10mm nut. Have a large
drain bucket underneath and with one bolt
still in halfway, pull the pump out so that the
coolant drains out slowly as opposed to it
gushing out everywhere.
23
 The new Graf
manufactured
pump has the same design
of plastic impeller as the
2008 Fiat original. Plastic
impellers weigh next to
nothing, so the pump
bearings have a much easier
time of it. Plastic impeller
pumps are very reliable
these days.
24
 Here, the pump
mounting area on the
block has been thoroughly
cleaned to give a perfect
smooth surface. Take your
time here to clean all traces
of the old sealer away – how
annoying would a slow
coolant leak here be?
25
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Car Mechanics
January 2023
33
CM project 2008 Fiat Panda 1.4 100HP
TIMING BELT SWAP CONTINUED
PROJECT COSTS
PURCHASE
£600.00
PARTS COSTS
Front dampers (each)
These pumps do not use a
conventional paper gasket or even an
O-ring. Instead, they use a good RTV sealant
around the pump body circumference. The
pump is the same design on both the 1.4 and
the 1.2 8-valve engines.
The new pump is now slid onto that stud
and the nut and three bolts fitted and
just nipped up to a mere 8Nm and no more.
Use brake cleaner to clean and dry everything
here. Note how beefy the timing belt tensioner
stud is. It’s quite a robustly designed engine.
Slide the new tensioner into place
ensuring it locates properly onto the
cylinder-head and do the nut finger tight.
Now fit the new belt, crank sprocket first and
feed it around the water pump, cam pulley
and behind the tensioner as shown here.
Ensure the belt teeth are always engaged.
Use the tensioning methods discussed
earlier to adjust the belt tension until
the slot on the lower bit of the disc lines up
with the slot on the tension indicator. Nip the
13mm nut up and then torque it to 28Nm.
Turn the engine over two full turns by hand
and recheck everything.
26
28
27
29
£100.42
Front top mounts
£19.07
Rear dampers (each)
£49.96
Front discs (pair)
£26.77
Front pads
£17.00
Rear discs (pair)
£22.33
Rear pads
£16.34
Rear wheel bearing
£35.71
Timing belt kit
£53.00
Water pump
£26.71
Auxiliary belt
£15.46
TOTAL
£982.77
All good? Excellent – now you can
have a cuppa before reassembling the
belt covers, engine mount (ours went back in
easily), crank pulley and so on. The key with
these jobs is to check and recheck everything.
Now start adding coolant nice and slowly.
30
NEXT MONTH
We begin with the Panda’s
battered bodywork.
How much can we save?
USEFUL CONTACTS
GSF Car Parts 0121 626 7981
gsfcarparts.com
Parkside Autos 01909 506555
the heater to hot and start the
31 Set
engine. The total system capacity is
just under 5 litres. Let it idle with the odd
few seconds at 2000rpm and it should start
blowing warm from the heater soon enough.
Our system was bled in 10 minutes without
touching the bleed screw on the heater hose.
34 Car Mechanics
January 2023
 When replacing a
timing belt, only use top
quality parts such as these. INA
belt kits are part of the Schaeffler
group who, amongst others, own
LuK, so you know it’s good stuff.
The belt should be replaced at
48,000 miles or every four years.
32
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Project Kia S
Fixing aircon,
& stereo amp
PART SIX: In the final episode of our Sportage
project series, Rob Hawkins reassembles the
freshly painted driver’s door, then attempts to
finish all of the remaining jobs.
I
“
ncluding VAT that comes to
£651.15,” explained the person in
the parts department of our local Kia
dealership concerning the price of a
new rear-view camera for our Sportage.
That sort of price buys you a digital SLR
with a lens, flash and more, not a camera
the size of your thumb that doesn’t take
photos and needs to be connected to more
devices to display an image. Needless to
say, we didn’t order what was apparently
the last one in the UK, and sadly, we
didn’t find much of a better answer in
the world of aftermarket parts suppliers,
with overseas eBay sellers promising to
deliver in a couple of weeks for around
£200. We tried secondhand but couldn’t
find anything. We’ll have to keep looking,
but at least Rob now knows how to
remove the camera and dismantle it.
JOBS LIST
✔
REFURBISH
ALLOY WHEELS
✔
Part 2/3
REPAIR BODYWORK
DAMAGE
SEPT/OCT 22
✔
FIX SCREENWASH
RESERVOIR
Part 4
NOV 22
✔
FIX CRUISE
CONTROL
Part 4
NOV 22
✔
REPLACE
DRIVER’S DOOR
Part 5
DEC 22
✔
REPLACE TORN
BOOT COVER
Part 6
JAN 23
✔
CHECK RADIO
VOLUME
Part 6
JAN 23
✖
INVESTIGATE SQUEAKY
REAR SUSPENSION
✖
REPAIR TEAR IN DRIVER’S
LEATHER SEAT
✖
REPLACE OR CLEAN
REVERSING CAMERA
Part 2
SEPT 22
Other jobs that are on hold for now
include the squeaking rear suspension
bush. A genuine replacement bush has
been on order for several months, but it
still hasn’t arrived.
We’ve had more success in other
areas this month in what is the final
instalment of this project series. The
exterior paintwork is now looking as
good as new and the aircon has been
fixed. The torn boot cover has been
replaced and the stereo’s amplifier was
found to have a small amount of water
ingress, so it is being repaired.
Having clocked up some 3000 miles
in the Sportage since taking it on, this
has been one project vehicle that has
proved to be reliable. The fuel economy
hasn’t crept beyond 37mpg, so perhaps
the official fuel consumption figures are
optimistic for an all-wheel-drive vehicle,
but otherwise, the Sportage has been
a useful and capable machine that’s
fun to drive, handles well and has been
straightforward to work on.
REBUILDING THE REPLACEMENT DOOR
 Gareth and Shaun
at Elite Accident Repair
Centre fitted the painted
replacement door on to our
Sportage, tightening its hinge
bolts to secure it in position.
They then left Rob to transfer
the parts over to it that had been
taken from the original door.
1
 Rob started with the
wiring loom for the door,
which was fed through a hole in
the front edge and secured to a
plug on the inside of the A-post.
2
36 Car Mechanics
January 2023
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME
CM project 2011 Kia Sportage 2.0 CRDi AWD
 Next, he fitted
the check strap,
which stops the door
from opening too far. It
was secured with one
12mm bolt on the A-post
and two 10mm nuts
inside the door.
3
 Unsure of the
exact order of how
to fit all the parts, Rob
transferred the window
seal shown here from
the old door to the
replacement. He also
fitted one of the scrapers.
4
 After refitting a
rearmost window
channel guide, Rob
manoeuvred the window
regulator and lock
assemblies inside the
door and loosely secured
them with several
10mm bolts.
5
 Confident the
window regulator
and lock assemblies
were correctly fitted, he
refitted the door glass
and secured it to the
mechanism with its two
10mm bolts.
6
 Gareth came to
the rescue before
Rob missed something,
fitting the main door
seal, which is secured
with several small
plastic clips. There were
enough spare clips as
some had broken.
7
 Before going
any further,
Rob reconnected the
wiring plugs to all their
components inside the
door, along with the
switch panel, then tested
the window to ensure it
moved up and down.
8
 He then refitted
the door card but
had to prise it off when
he realised that he’d
forgotten to refit the
door release cable to the
handle and couldn’t get
out of the vehicle.
9
 Then he realised
he’d forgotten to
fit the waterproof sheet,
so the door card came
off again. Nobody at
Elite looked particularly
surprised at his mistake.
10
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Car Mechanics
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37
CM project 2011 Kia Sportage 2.0 CRDi AWD
REBUILDING THE REPLACEMENT DOOR CONTINUED
 Finally, with the
replacement door
assembled and working, Richard
at Elite could make a start on
flatting the fresh paintwork
across both offside doors and
the front wing. He began with
P2000-grade wet-and-dry.
11
 Next, he moved
on to using a buffer
with a P2000 and P3000 soft
pad. Whilst the previous step
had helped to remove any
imperfections in the paintwork,
this stage was helping to restore
its shine.
12
 Gareth and Richard
then got to work with
a couple of buffers and some
cutting compound, finishing off
the paintwork to create a shine
down the offside of the vehicle.
13
 After refitting the AWD
decal to the front wing,
the Kia was driven outside and
washed. The dinged driver’s door
was no more and our SUV looked
as good as new.
14
REPLACING THE AIRCON CONDENSER
 We tested the Kia’s
aircon system at AES and
discovered it was empty of
gas. Mark Shipman at AES had
a look around the condenser
using an ultraviolet torch
and spotted a leak or two. We
needed a new condenser.
1
 Returning to AES when
the replacement condenser
had arrived, we got stuck in and
started the job by removing the
trim panel over the top of the
front grille. At first, we thought
that undoing four crosshead
screws, a couple of 10mm bolts
and trim plugs would do it, but…
2
 …the panel
refused to move
until we spotted two
more crosshead screws
tucked inside the front
grille area that were
awkward to access. Once
undone, the panel could
be lifted off.
3
 A couple of composite
struts needed to be
removed, which are positioned
either side of the condenser
and coolant radiator. These
help direct airflow through the
two of them.
4
38 Car Mechanics
January 2023
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CM project 2011 Kia Sportage 2.0 CRDi AWD
 A plastic piece
of ducting for the
induction system was
another component that
was obstructing removal
of the condenser. This was
secured with a 10mm bolt
and a couple of trim plugs.
5
 Next, the horn
had to be removed,
which is secured with two
10mm bolts. Technician
Pete undid the bolts and
detached the wiring before
manoeuvring it out from in
front of the condenser.
6
 Squeezing a torch
down the offside of
the condenser, we could see
and access the 10mm nuts
that secure the high- and
low-pressure connections
for the aircon system.
After undoing them, Pete
wiggled the connections
to detach them.
7
 The old aircon
condenser could
now be extracted from
the engine bay. Pete
carefully released it and
lifted it out, ensuring he
didn’t catch or damage the
coolant radiator.
8
 After checking
the replacement
condenser was the same
size and shape as the old
one, Pete released the
covers over the outlets
to hear a hiss from them
– they are fitted under
pressure to help prove
they have been tested.
9
 Two new studs
were fitted into
the outlets on the new
condenser, then Rob
lowered it into the engine
bay and soon discovered
that fitting is not the
reversal of removal. There
were plenty of obstructions.
10
 Rob soon got
the hang of how
to fit the replacement
condenser, ensuring its
mounting points slotted
correctly into the sides of
the coolant radiator. He
refitted the connections,
horn and trim panel.
11
 Mark connected
his aircon
equipment and completed
a leak test. This time it
was more successful, so he
refilled it with 550g of gas
and we tested the aircon
inside the vehicle. It now
produced cold air.
12
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Car Mechanics
January 2023
39
CM project 2011 Kia Sportage 2.0 CRDi AWD
REAR VIEW CAMERA
PROJECT COSTS
PURCHASE
£4355.00
PARTS COSTS
Alloy wheel refurbishment x 5
plus centre caps x 4
£440.00
rear-view camera on our Kia was
1 The
a little hazy when we acquired the
vehicle, and more recently, it had been
reduced to a blank screen. So Rob looked into
replacing it, discovering a genuine one costs
over £650 and one from eBay is around £200.
The reversing camera is located in a
plastic panel on the underside of the
tailgate, so he undid a couple of screws and
prised the panel off, only to find he had to get
inside the tailgate to detach a wiring plug.
2
Paint repairs
£540.00
Rear brake discs and pads
£111.58
Clutch pedal switch
£73.44
Driver’s door & paint repairs £660.00
Boot cover
Aircon condenser and refill
Stereo amplifier repairs
TOTAL COSTS
£45.00
£156.00
£294.00
£6675.02
USEFUL CONTACTS
Elite Accident Repair Centre
01924 443071
eliteaccidentrepaircentre.co.uk
AES York Limited
01904 780149
autoelectricsyork.co.uk
After prising the back panel off the
inside of the tailgate (and undoing
a couple of screws), then detaching the
camera’s wiring plug, Rob hoped he could
undo a couple of mounting screws for the
camera and pop it out, but it was seemingly
stuck, so he removed the entire panel.
3
screws were undone for a mounting
5 Two
bracket, then the camera could be
dismantled by undoing four more. There wasn’t
much to see, only lots of aluminium oxide.
NO VOLUME
40 Car Mechanics
January 2023
With the panel laid on his workbench
(it incorporates the numberplate lights
and electronic switch for the boot release),
he applied more pressure and eventually
managed to pop the camera out.
4
After spraying over the camera’s
exposed electrical connections with
contact cleaner, it was reassembled and
refitted, but sadly, it still wasn’t working. We’re
still looking for an affordable replacement.
6
BOOT COVER
The retractable boot cover that was inside
our Kia when we bought the vehicle was
partially torn across its fabric, so we
looked at replacing it as repairing it was
going to be difficult. A new assembly
costs around £125, but we found one at a
breaker’s yard for £45. It needed a clean,
but otherwise, it works fine.
The volume on our Sportage’s stereo/sat-nav
occasionally worked when we acquired the
vehicle, but more recently, it had completely
given up, so we took the vehicle to a local audio
specialist for a second opinion. They suspected
the amplifier in the boot had a problem, such as
water ingress. After removing and reconnecting
it, the stereo volume returned, but we thought
it wise to dismantle the amp to check for any
issues. Traces of water ingress were evident,
and for £245+VAT (£294), we decided to have a
new circuit board fitted along with a few other
internal components. At the time of writing, we
were waiting for parts to arrive.
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34
Buying, Owning
& Improving
Ian Cushway
searches out
new and used
parts prices
MERC A-CLASS
From ugly duckling to swan, here’s why the Mercedes-Benz A-Class
now makes sense as a used family hatch.
T
he sophisticated third
generation A-Class seen here
is a far cry from its geriatric,
mini-MPV ancestor which first
saw the light of day in 1997. That car,
the W168, was the German firm’s first
stab at making a compact car and it
wasn’t exactly a raging success. You’ll no
doubt recall the embarrassing episode
when it flipped over in the ‘elk test’
severely denting the new car’s image as
well as costing Mercedes 300 million
Deutsche Marks to implement the
necessary modifications to make it more
stable. Reportedly, for every vehicle sold
the company lost £1200.
The Mk2 from 2009 was a significant
improvement and the subsequent
revisions that followed eventually made
up for the model’s inauspicious start, the
A-Class becoming the UK’s fourth bestselling car by 2021.
The ‘A’ we’re talking about here
though, the more muscular Mk3, broke
cover in 2013 and believe it or not has
sold in even greater numbers. In fact,
Facelift cars from 2015 had a
different grille and bumpers.
42 Car Mechanics
January 2023
it’s been a sales sensation for the brand
– which is great news because it means
you’ll be spoilt for choice when buying.
The improved Mk3 (W176) was based
on a concept car first shown a few years
earlier and it will be a relief to many
that it bares no resemblance whatsoever
to its predecessors. It’s bigger for a
start – something that’s allowed it to
become a true family hatch contender.
Its USP, though, lies elsewhere. It’s a car
that offers the same premium feel as its
bigger, more expensive siblings but in
an altogether more wallet-friendly – and
dare we say, more practical – package.
The engine line up featured a variety
of petrol options from a wheezy 100bhp
1.6-litre petrol to the pokey 2.0-litre,
while diesel offerings included everything
from a 1.5 to the torquey 168bhp 2.1. All
were available with either a dual clutch
auto or six-speed manual gearbox.
The turbocharged A45 AMG,
introduced in the summer of 2013, was
the wild child of the family and featured
the world’s most powerful four-cylinder
engine producing 354bhp and able to
rocket the car to 60mph in just 4.5
seconds. Oh, and there was a four-wheel
drive version, too – the A250 4 MATIC –
which came along in early 2014.
There was a mild facelift in the
following Autumn at the same time as
the introduction of Drive Select (an
adjustable chassis option) and a couple
of new models, including the A220d
4MATIC and an even more fuel efficient
A180d. Incidentally, you can distinguish
a facelift by its diamond grille, different
bumpers and lights and the fact that
Mercedes dropped the CDI badging on
the diesels, opting for a more subtle ‘d’
after the numerical designation instead.
The Mk3 made way for the subtly
different Mk4 (W177) in 2018 – and
remains the most current model.
The parts
prices quoted Brake component prices
FRONT BRAKE DISCS PAIR
here relate
Main dealer £211.20
to a 2013
Independent from £74.98
1.5 A180
CDI SE.
FRONT BRAKE PADS
Main dealer £57.12
Independent from £26.49
REAR BRAKE CALIPER
Main dealer £157.20
Independent from £188.99
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Buying/Owning/Improving Mercedes-Benz A-Class
Engine component prices
OIL FILTER
Main dealer £10.20
Independent from £11.99
Apart from the
1.5 diesel which
had a belt, the
rest of the A-Class
engines employed
a timing chain.
TURBO
Main dealer £762.00
Independent from £899.99
DUAL MASS FLYWHEEL
Main dealer £512.40
Independent from £619.99
Engines
Steering
component prices
Problem-wise, there’s
STEERING RACK
Most were diesels, which
nothing in the way of
Main dealer £2655.60
are fine if a little gruff and
common issues – although
Independent from £1189.99
agricultural in the town
the steering rack on
FRONT SUSPENSION COIL
centre setting; the smaller
pre-facelift cars has been
SPRING EACH
units are Renault-derived.
known to fail, so beware
Main dealer £199.20
Petrol engines are far more
of any clunks when
Independent from £56.99
refined but can feel a little
turning from lock-to-lock.
underpowered and aren’t as economical.
Incidentally, despite its nomenclature,
The 1.5 diesel employs a timing belt
the Sport doesn’t sit any lower – so for a
which requires changing every 10 years
bit more visual drama buy some lowering
or 124,000 miles. Otherwise, the other
springs. A set of four Eibach springs
engines in the A-Class range are chain
costs £233.87 from LK Performance.
driven, so as long as they are regularly
serviced (every 12 months/15,500
Brakes
miles), there’s very little to worry about.
The A-Class pulls up confidently, thanks
That said, we’ve read reports of problems
to pretty powerful stoppers.
with turbochargers on high mileage
There are no problems to report
diesels, so beware of cars that go into
although some owners have had issues
limp-home mode or seem underpowered.
with the electronic parking brake sticking
A R-Tec Auto Designs Ltd remap for
on. Here, a replacement caliper is the only
the inexpensive to buy 1.5 107bhp
solution if it doesn’t free up after a couple
model will take power up to 142bhp and
of tries. They are £157.20 from a Merc
add a useful 69Nm of torque.
main agent, which is cheaper than we saw
one online at a national independent.
Suspension/steering
AMG 45 owners wanting extra
The A-Class’s scintillating handling comes
performance from their brake pads often
at a small price; the ride can feel rock hard
choose the Pagid RS29; they’re not cheap
at times, especially on models with bigger
though at £313.19 a set from FR&RT
wheels and sports suspension.
Tuning in Bradford.
Which model?
 In theory, pre-facelift entry-level
cars came with steel wheels but in
the real world few buyers would
have been stingy enough not to
have specified alloys. Needless to
say the SE had them as standard, as
well as sports seats, sat-nav and a
multifunction steering wheel, while
the Sport benefitted from 17in
rims and cruise control. The rangetopping AMG had 18in wheels,
bodykit, sports suspension, xenon
lights and privacy glass.
All models had aircon, so as long
as the rest of the car measures
up, anything with alloys will do
in terms of trim. We like the AMG
Line; it’s an AMG A45 lookalike but
doesn’t carry the same pricetag (or
insurance premium).
Post-2015 facelift models will feel
much more contemporary with
their active brake assist, keyless
start and Apple CarPlay but you’ll
pay for the privilege.
Engine-wise, we’d stick to the
smaller petrol units if you don’t do
too many miles. Otherwise, the 1.5
A180 diesel ticks all the right boxes
and offers an appealing mix of
economy and performance.
Hatch is handy but the boot aperture’s small and
luggage capacity is less than most of its rivals.
A-Class interior
is a nice place to
be; part leather
trim was standard
on the AMG
and available
as an option on
SE models and
above. The Mk4
(right) from 2018
had a completely
redesigned interior.
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Car Mechanics
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43
Buying, Owning
& Improving
CONTINUED
USEFUL CONTACTS
Other component prices
FUEL FILLER FLAP SOLENOID
Main dealer £30.76
How much?
 Pricey new, there’s some real
A-Class bargains around right now
if you don’t mind settling for a prefacelift model with the 1.5 diesel
under its bonnet which kick off at
£6000. Clean 1.6 petrol examples
in SE spec with around 100k on the
clock will be £7000-£8000. Early but
still sought-after AMG A45 models
begin at £18,000 but you’ll need to
pay at least twice that for a highlyspecced 2017 with 30k showing.
Post-facelift Mk3s fetch upwards
of £8500, with the last of the
line, low-mileage A180s ranging
between £18,000-£22,000.
The least expensive Mk4 will
be £14,000, with 2021-plate
delivery mileage examples often
making £24,000.
FR&R Tuning 075940 40272
fr-rtuning-shop.co.uk
LK Performance 01274 936040
www.lkperformance.co.uk
R-Tech Design Ltd 01727 790100
www.rtecshop.co.uk
Other issues
Ride quality is firm but even more rock hard
on cars with bigger diameter wheels and low
profile tyres.
As you’d expect, build quality is good –
although possibly not quite on par with
the legendary Mercedes standard of
old. For instance, there’s been reports
of rattles from the centre console and
the seatbelt adjusters in the B-pillar,
USB sockets not working, as well as
dampness inside the rear footwells and
boot. The latter it seems is a common
complaint and results from water getting
sucked in through the rear cabin pressure
equalising vents behind the rear bumper.
Another A-Class niggle is stuck petrol
Running costs
 The least expensive to run A-Class is our best buy, the 1.5 A180 CDI diesel
which can do 76mpg, won’t cost anything to tax if it was made prior to
31 March 2017 and comes in at Insurance Group 15. The middle of the
range A180 petrol does 51mpg, is £135 to tax and is Insurance Group 18.
Unsurprisingly, the monster AMG A45 is likely to make the biggest dent in your
finances; it will struggle to top 40mpg, is Group 43 insurance and you’ll pay £220
for annual VED. Still, for the thrill it might just be worth it!
Bizarrely, the optional seven-speed DCT auto transmission makes all models
slightly more frugal.
MERCEDES ACLASS
Model
Engine (cc)
Power (bhp)
0-60mph (secs)
Top speed (mph)
Average fuel (mpg)
44 Car Mechanics
A160
1595
100
10.3
118
52
January 2023
A180 CDI
1461
107
10.9
118
76
A180
1595
120
8.9
126
51
2013-on
A200d
2143
134
9.0
130
68
AMG A45
1991
354
4.5
155
40
You can tell a facelift by the badging; CDI was
dropped in favour of a more simple ‘d’.
flaps; the solenoid fails, so the flap
doesn’t release when you open the doors.
It’s not an expensive fix but will leave
you stranded if you run out of fuel!
Verdict
 Is it better than a Golf or an
Audi A3? Possibly, as long as you’re
willing to compromise a little when
it comes to ride quality and space,
both of which suffer a little at the
expense of style on the A-Class. At
341-litres, the boot is a lot smaller
than its main rivals and the interior
space isn’t as generous, either.
Still, it drives well, looks sensational
and reliability is first rate. And because
the Mk4 is still so new, you might be
able to hammer out a good deal on
one of the last, post-facelift Mk3s.
By the way, we noticed a few
insurance write-offs in the classifieds,
so check history and do a proper HPI
check before parting with your cash.
Finally, having historically scored
poorly for dealer satisfaction in
surveys, it would pay to strike up a
relationship with a good specialist
independent for regular maintenance.
That said, as you’ll see from our price
comparison, we found that some
main dealer parts were actually
cheaper than at an independent!
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Sourcing storage
Happiness is your own garage – and those who have one don’t know
how lucky they are! One answer is to rent a lock-up but there’s more
to it than simply finding one says Alan Anderson.
I
t’s estimated that 75% of
households don’t use their garage
for what it was intended for. Drive
down most streets and you’ll see
cars parked on the driveway when they
should be tucked away of out harm’s way.
Laziness plays a key factor but just as
likely it’s already crammed with domestic
detritus – sorry essential household
spillovers which can include the
offspring, leading many to realise that
the space designed for a mere car can be
turned into an extra room instead.
WHERE TO FIND A LOCK-UP
In the old days, the easiest way to obtain
lock-up heaven was via the local council
and many still have them on their books
but the market is also full of private
landlords and businesses. Lock-ups have
always been in strong demand so don’t
be surprised if you have to be placed on
a waiting list. According to London’s
Islington council, anyone can apply for a
lock-up but says priority is always given
to those living on a local estate or are
Blue Badge holders. Apart from scouring
the Internet for garage locations and
prospective landlords, it’s still best to
talk to your local council first.
STILL SINGLE…
SIZE MATTERS!
A standard garage size has been set
at 16ft x 8ft 6ins for decades whereas
typical car sizes have grown out of all
proportion. This means that where a
Ford Cortina was once accommodated
quite comfortably, a new MINI won’t
be due to its sheer width, even with the
door mirrors retracted. So, unless you
intend to egress from a sunroof (if fitted)
the only other course of action is resort
to manual labour and push it in. Find
out what your vehicle’s width is first;
typically, with some exceptions, vehicles
made after 2000 are unlikely to be driven
in and out easily. The obvious solution is
to opt for a double garage, but these are
extremely rare to find, and the costs are
likely to be prohibitive.
THE COST OF A COVER?
Which leads us on the most important
subject – costs. My first (council) lock-up
in the East End of London way back in
1978 cost me the princely sum of £1 a
week (just under a fiver in today’s money).
They are a tidy bit pricier now… For
example, Islington (arguably one of the
The perfect lock up; a well kept block of garages in a respectable,
safe location. Note the condition of the doors and guttering, the
latter help keeping water entry and flooding to a minimum.
46 Car Mechanics
January 2023
most expensive areas in the UK) charges
not simply for the garage, but also bases
the levy on the vehicle’s emission ratings
– even though the engine will be switched
off! Weekly charges range from £10.65 to
£22.43 for bona fide residents but span
from £23.94 to £52.46 to what the council
labels “everyone else”. Interestingly, if a
garage is not used for vehicle storage it
can ratchet up to £48.74! So, my current
princely £9 weekly rental from a private
Essex-based landlord is very good value,
don’t you think?
It stands to reason that the further
away from a major city the cheaper
they become; such as £20 per week in
Gravesend and £25 in Chelmsford, Essex
– although this may change in Essex if
Chelmsford, along with others, follow
London by going down the ULEZ route
and bump up garage charges accordingly.
Watch out for other charges too;
increasingly down payments of around
£200 are being asked for and refundable
only if the garage is vacated in a clean
and undamaged state. Typically, the
pro-rata rent will be calculated from the
date of enquiry to the end of the current
billing, either monthly or quarter.
Thankfully however, since 1990, council
rates have not been charged on lock-ups.
However, this perhaps more the norm! Check out the area before you
sign on the dotted; broken garage doors could well be a sign of past
break-ins and a general run down unkempt look is not a good sign.
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Sourcing storage
Maybe they can’t read… but this is an all too
common occurrence with communal garages,
especially those located close to shops or a
market – and may well put you off. Note the
general run down state of the buildings.
ONCE YOU’VE FOUND
YOUR LOCK-UP
Don’t be in too much of a rush to collect
the keys. Instead go around and case out
the locality first. Locks ups can reside
in some less than salubrious locations
and if it looks like the Bronx on a bad
day, you’ve every right to be wary for
you and your car’s wellbeing. How many
garages have broken doors and look like
they’ve been broken into, for instance?
Also is the frontage clear of parked cars,
hindering access? It is an extremely
common occurrence, and a ‘No Parking’
sign rarely cuts any ice!
Even if the location looks favourable,
inspect the garage; what state is it in?
These are ‘working mules’ and are rarely
properly maintained. Damaged and
buckled doors are commonplace and
even if it opens and shuts OK, it may
have affected the door’s runners and
its counterbalance cabling which if fails
(which it eventually will) is expensive
to repair. I personally know of this as
A damaged door, such as this, needs to
be properly repaired or replaced before
taking on the rental as it’s bound to fail,
possibly injuring you or your vehicle –
plus you may be accused of the damage.
someone recently reversed into my
garage door (the house one) causing it
to come off the runners leading to quote
of well over £1000 for a completely new
door assembly! Any damage should
immediately be reported to the council
or the landlord, so you don’t become
lumbered with an unexpected bill
through no fault of your own. Check the
roof for potential leak spots although a
number of major letting agencies, such
as www.lockupgarages.co.uk has
its own maintenance team and this is
included within the rental agreement.
SECURITY
From a security aspect it’s best to renew
the door lock or fit secondary locks as most
garage doors are pretty easy to overcome.
There’s a good range of affordable alarms
and closed-circuit intruder detectors which
are linked to your smartphone, but it
ultimately hinges on how near the garage
is to your home. As blocks of lock-ups are
usually located in dimly lit areas where the
Even if the door appears to be sound,
check the ‘up and over’ workings
as careless treatment and lack of
maintenance will cause the door to
come off its runners – or worse.
cat never crawls, we’d certainly think about
fitting battery-powered light sensitive
detectors – and never keep expensive
tools or equipment in a rented lock-up.
Finally, the vehicle and all contents are
left entirely at the owner’s risk.
AS A WORKSHOP
There are no rules about working on
your private vehicle or making a suitable
workshop (as a business it’s a different
matter). Due to space being at a premium,
it’s best to keep the floor as clear as
possible and secure a light workbench
and shelving to the walls instead but
don’t overload either. Thanks to portable
power, cordless tools and rechargeable
lighting, not having mains electricity
isn’t a great hardship. Or you can invest
in portable generator.
If it’s a long-term thing, then a spot
of decorating by painting the walls and
floors to make the most of natural light,
isn’t a wasted effort for little cost. Grey
is probably the best colour for floors
Looks are deceptive.
A single garage will
probably be of little
use to a modern
car – ask for a test
fit first. Brick built
is better than a
prefab as it naturally
‘breathes’ allowing
your car to dry off if
put in wet.
Either replace the existing lock or fit
additional ones to both deter thieves and
dubious past custodians who have kept a
spare key. For the same reason, don’t leave
expensive tools or equipment in a lock-up.
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Car Mechanics
January 2023
47
Sourcing storage
DO YOUR
OWN THING
Portable garages
are well worth
considering. One of
the latest designs
is Carapace from
Jeran Innovations
(www.thecarapace.
com). The basic
model, made from
GRP, comes in a
choice of colours
and costs some
£6000 assembled.
with either Brilliant White or Magnolia
for the walls and ceiling because not
only does it look bright and smart, but
it also reflects light best – plus is easy to
keep clean or repaint when needed.
Painting the floor helps keep dust down
but only use dedicated floor paint for
this purpose. If, however, you want the
ultimate, consider special interlocking
PVC garage floor tiles. They are very easy
to lay and take up, are exceptionally easy
to keep clean plus keep the warmth in.
Typically, it costs around £350 to deck
out an average single garage. A cheaper
alternative is similar – lino type flooring
(Costco sells it). Both look great too,
unlike some old flowery carpet which
will soon deteriorate – although this is
better than nothing during the winter.
6
Once you’ve rented a lock-up, if storing a car,
make regular visits to check on its health. Keep
the tyres inflated and clear all those leaves
that seem to find their way into the garage.
 How about the most local lockup of all – in your own garden? A
temporary garage is nothing to
be ashamed of. There are some
innovative designs on the market
which are ideal for short-term
storage, such as the winter and
what’s more, don’t require planning
permission. They start with
glorified ‘super tents’ and go all the
way to stylish GRP shells, all with
their own flooring.
For as little as £400 Hamilton
Classics markets Auto Pod; a fullyenclosed outdoor shelter made of
a lightweight fabric which is both
weather and UV resistant with
vents to allow air to circulate and
inhibit condensation. The large zip
door provides access, and there
are also three smaller doors. The
size of 7.3m x 3.5m means they
aren’t really suitable for major
repair work though.
Machine Mart markets the Clarke
range of portables which start
from under £400.
Another alternative is Carapace
– a semi-portable GRP shell which
doesn’t look an eyesore (see image
left) and is approved for use as a
garage by Classicline Insurance.
If that’s all a bit of a non-starter,
a carport is one alternative. These
are much cheaper than a full-blown
garage (typically starting at around
£800-£1000) and provide much
needed shelter – although you will
still be at the mercy of the elements
albeit to a much lesser degree.
TIPS TO RENT OUT A DRIVEWAY
 The car leasing experts at LeaseCar.uk and its sister site LeaseElectricCar.co.uk have advised
drivers on the best ways to turn a driveway into an earner. There are several different ways to do
this, and several sites which offer ways to safely rent out a driveway to other users.
1. Planning permission – in England, the Government
states that users do not need planning permission. This
makes things easier for people looking to take advantage
of their space but who are not sure about the logistics
behind doing it.
2. Location – whilst users can find suitors anywhere
within reason, the most effective locations are of course
generally in cities, or in locations with high traffic such as
near points of interest or travel hubs.
3. JustPark – is one of the biggest sites for users to
advertise their parking spaces in the UK and is very
simple to use. It is free to sign up and register your
parking space, and justpark.com will notify you when
you receive a booking, for which you can then earn the
money agreed with the purchaser.
4. Advertise Residents – could also advertise the
48 Car Mechanics
January 2023
old-fashioned way, by putting adverts in the local
newspaper or by sending out flyers to put around town,
especially if they live in a town with fairly high footfall
and traffic, it will be seen by plenty of people.
5. Flexibility – the main bonus to this helpful income
stream is that the user decides entirely when and how
they go about taking advantage of it. If the user has
some dates that they know they will not have their car
for, as an example, then they can know exactly when to
rent out their space and know that they will be making
money without doing anything extra.
6. A contract is important – make sure to have a written
agreement in advance which states that the owner of
the space is not liable for damage incurred to the user’s
vehicle, which could otherwise lead to extensive costs or
legal problems.
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TMD Q&A braking session
Take a Brake
MINTEX HOLDS ITS OWN AGAINST R90
 When it comes to keeping customers
happy, independent workshops and
garages are heavily reliant upon
sourcing the best products to do the
job. This makes the manufacturer
incredibly important to a garage’s
customer experience, as the fitment of
mediocre parts with a shorter lifespan
can reflect badly on a business.
TMD Friction’s aftermarket brake
brand, Mintex, recognises this and
demonstrates its forward-thinking
approach to friction material through
its performance against the ECE
Regulation 90 (R90) test.
Scott Irwin MIMI, Head of Technical
Training at TMD Friction explains...
Tell us more about
ECE Regulation 90
and what it involves
In a nutshell, R90 is a means of
evaluating an aftermarket brake pad
against original equipment (OE). Pads
that fall within a +/- 15% tolerance are
considered fit for purpose, but this is
a minimum requirement.
How does
Mintex ensure
it meets R90
regulations?
To uphold its reputation
within the market,
Mintex goes above and
beyond what’s enforced
by the ECE, ensuring
that its pads rank within
a much smaller range
than +/- 15%.
Not only do Mintex
pads excel against the test,
they also provide additional
benefits that are not evaluated
as part of the R90 regulations.
This allows vehicle technicians to
feel confident in the research and
development invested into Mintex
products, particularly with regards
to braking performance, comfort,
product tests and durability, which
are not specified as criteria for R90.
What processes do
Mintex carry out
to go above and
beyond R90?
Looking at performance, Mintex pads
are tested for fade, cold friction value
and friction stability, all of which are
not a standard requirement set by the
ECE R90.
With regards to comfort, the pads
are also tested for noise, pedal feel
and response. This is becoming
ever more important as drivers
expect zero noise when
braking, something that
comes as standard when
choosing Mintex pads.
Addressing the
final two areas, the
physicality and
durability of the
products are also
carefully considered. Mintex pads
are tested for emissions and safety,
corrosion, paint resistance, as well as
pad swell.
With regards to longevity, Mintex
stringently tests pad life and disc
crack behaviours to name few.
Highlighting another element that
the R90 test does not evaluate.
These added benefits go a long
way in demonstrating Mintex’s
commitment to the braking industry.
By keeping product innovation at its
heart, mechanics can feel confident
in Mintex parts, and how they will
perform for their customers.
All Mintex tools can be found here https://mintex.com/wp-content/
uploads/2016/04/Mintex-Tools-Brochure-LR.pdf
mintexbrakes
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www.mintex.com
mintex_official
Car Mechanics
January 2023
49
Peter Simpson provides us with an insight into
the automotive sales trading world – and beyond.
Full disclosure
 I’ve just replaced my other half’s 2010
Kia Sorento with another; there isn’t
really anything wrong with it, in fact for
a 12-year-old Kia with 125,000 on the
clock, it drove pretty well. It was also a
presentable and reliable-enough old
thing, served us well as a family-wagon,
and during August covered nearly 3000
miles in around four weeks for our annual
holiday. In fact, we’d probably have kept
it for another year or so were it not for a
stunning 2014 top-spec example coming
our way at a price too good to pass up.
However, driving Old Sorento and
New Sorento in succession revealed
that Old Sorento had got a slightly
noisy back axle. It wasn’t severe; as
I say it wasn’t until I drove another that
I really noticed it at all and Sarah and
I had both been driving it daily, including
on regular 150-200 mile round trips. It
was also a whine rather than knocking
sound, and, I’m sure, been exactly the
same throughout our ownership – the
sort of thing which will probably carry
on as it is more-or-less indefinitely. A
noise like that could also probably be
considered normal wear and tear for a
car of the age and miles. But then again,
any axle on 125k could fail at any time.
The problem, though, is dealing with
something like this in a selling situation
– it’s only right and proper to make
people aware of it, and in a trading
situation there is almost certainly a
“Finally, and
this is also
crucial, you
must mention
on the sales
invoice receipt
that the fault is
known and has
been disclosed”
Black Kia Sorento has
now been replaced, by
a dark blue Kia Sorento.
legal obligation to do so. It’s especially
important in an online-selling, and I
include in that person-to-person sales
where the initial contact is online – it
really isn’t fair to expect someone to
come out and view a car which has
an issue like this, without first making
them aware of something they’ll almost
certainly notice when they come anyway.
But how do you present it? Many
people describe pretty-much any fault
as ‘slight’, even if it is anything but!
Consequently, most potential buyers
don’t see that particular word! All they
see is ‘axle whine’, which in most cases
that will end their interest. Even though
in this case the ‘fault’ really is slight, and
almost certainly not a terminal issue.
An approach I sometimes use in cases
like this is not to mention the fault in
the initial write-up, but I also make sure
that I do not say anything that might be
taken as contradicting it. BUT, and this
is VERY important, you MUST mention it
to anyone and everyone who enquires
at the first opportunity.
This approach, however, gives you
the opportunity to explain the fault
fully and properly, and, hopefully, have
a two-way discussion that will explain
it fully. Then, when they come, make a
point of demonstrating it – chances are
that they will say something like ‘that’s
OK, it’s nothing’ or words to that effect.
Finally, and this is also crucial, you must
mention on the sales invoice receipt
that the fault is known and has been
disclosed, and make sure the buyer
signs the receipt to that effect.
That is fair all round – you have made
them aware, and the customer has full
knowledge prior to viewing, yet you
avoid making it sound worse than it is
and losing customers as a consequence.
Fewer cars = faulty cars
 As we all know, times are tough at present, and look like
getting more so. One consequence of this is that people are
hanging on to cars longer because they need the money
for life’s essentials. A further pressure is the ongoing supply
issues with new cars. It seems to be affecting every part of
the market including the very bottom-end, where continuing
high scrap prices are meaning that it’s often more costeffective to scrap a car than put it through another test.
But when fewer cars are being changed from choice,
it’s inevitable that a far higher percentage of those which
are coming on to the market will be there due to a forced
replacement. And the most likely reason for this is that it’s
defective in some way. This is likely to be most significant with
main dealer part-exchanges and cars being sold by car buying
services. Those of us who have largely based our businesses
on retailing cars like this are used to factoring in that perhaps
two or three of every ten main dealer part-exes bought at
auction will have to go back to auction or be broken. But
50 Car Mechanics
January 2023
anecdotal evidence seems to be
that numbers of these are rising.
What’s more, identifying such
cars isn’t always easy, especially
in an online-only situation, as
some of the ‘clues’ are things
which might also identify the
very best main dealer partexes. For example, a one owner
sub-100k 12-year-old hybrid that’s been main dealer serviced
annually from new is, on the face of it, the sort of prime retail
stock which most dealers would pay top dollar for. But what if
it was sold because the hybrid battery is kaput?
Really, the best advice I can offer is to keep it in your mind
that a main dealer part-ex that seems great might not be, and
to factor this prospect into your calculations. Otherwise, you
might just be hit by the double-whammy of paying hundreds
over book AND having to fund an expensive repair!
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Dealer’s Diary
Premium prices
 Back in the 1970s, when a lot of cars were last in short supply,
a premium market existed for many – and it wasn’t just the real
top-flight stuff such as Bentleys and Rollers. There was a significant
waiting list for some slightly upmarket stuff too – for example if
you wanted to buy a new Jaguar XJ6 or Rover P6 in 1974 you had
to either wait up to two years or pay a ‘premium’ price to jump the
queue. And once you reached the front of the queue and your car
was finally being delivered you could choose to sell it straightaway,
and quite likely bag a decent profit. For some cars, this carried on
until the late 1970s – I once owned a 1978-manufactured Range
Rover which had been sold new in Belgium but bought by a Brit
and converted to RHD because that was cheaper than paying the
inflated premium price!
Anyway, with the current shortage of a fair-few new cars due
to component supply issues, these strange times might well be
returning. I understand that Land Rover in particular is currently
instructing dealers to carry out a certain amount of ‘due diligence’
on customers – watching out in particular for anyone who may
have placed multiple orders with different dealers. Furthermore, as
part of the ordering process, customers are being asked to sign an
agreement not to sell their new vehicle on for at least six months
after purchase, other than to an approved Land Rover dealer!
I’m not aware of anyone else doing this at present, and the
latest word is that the semiconductor shortages which have been
restricting new-car manufacture might start to ease in 2023.
Though at present it’s really hard to predict anything that might
or might not happen next week, let alone next year.
The Jaguar page from the April 1974 issue of Parkers Used Car Price Guide.
Prices aren’t quoted for many 1973 and 1974 models because where
these cars actually change hands, it’s frequently for more than new
prices, and depends how desperate someone is to have a new car now!
For Land Rover buyers at least, those days might be returning.
Always respond!
 It’s probably one of the things you dread most. You sell
a vehicle, and all seems well. Then, about three weeks later,
your phone rings, and you recognise the number as your
buyer’s… Chances are, your first reaction will be one of
worry. What’s gone wrong?
Quite often, though, there isn’t a problem at all. I’ve had
many calls after that sort of time-frame from people wanting
to tell me how pleased they are! Or it might be that someone
they know has seen their new car, been impressed and now
they want to buy from you – yes, that really does happen! Or
it might be a simple query – how does xxx work? Or, possibly,
they haven’t yet received the V5C back from Swansea.
But you really do need to take the call and find out what’s
going on because if there is a problem ignoring it won’t
make it go away! Quite the reverse, ignoring will make them
even more irate and reinforce their belief that you’re trying
to hide something. And if you ‘block’ them, they’ll be certain
you’re trying to con them!
So, however ‘difficult’ it may be, always, always respond!
Some people prefer to wait and see if a message is left; I don’t
do that as while it’s possible the message will tell you what
they want and it won’t be an issue, it’s probably more likely
they won’t say anything or just ask you to call without saying
why. Both of which are likely to increase any anxiety you are
feeling still more. It’s far better, much more professional, and
200% in your interest, to take the call. You can then find out
what the issue is and decide what – if anything to do.
As I say, though, if the car was right when sold (and if it
wasn’t, you shouldn’t have sold it retail in the first place) there’s
a good chance they won’t be complaining. Here’s a sort-of
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example that happened to me many years ago; it wasn’t a
phone call, but I’m sure that you will get the connection.
Anyway, it was a Vauxhall Corsa, and the father and son had
driven up to Cambridgeshire from North London. They gave
the car a quick look-over and test-drive, agreed it was as
described, paid their money and drove off. Half an hour later,
I headed out to get some petrol, and on the way, I spotted the
car I’d sold, and the one they’d travelled up in, parked by the
roadside and connected by a set of jump-leads. They hadn’t
seen me, and I could easily have just driven by and waited
for the phone call, and that thought did cross my mind.
But I didn’t; I stopped and asked what the trouble was.
I was informed that it wasn’t the car they’d bought from me
that was giving trouble, but the one that they had driven
up in! In the event I was able to direct them to the local
parts-shop which had a battery on the shelf. The local AA
roadside mechanic (who I also knew) fitted it for them. So, a
good outcome, and because I did stop and ask, no worrying
for weeks afterwards for me.
Car Mechanics
January 2023
51
G
DRIVINDS
TOWAR
2030
The Nissan Ariya is a big vehicle, but optimising aerodynamic
performance is key when it comes to maximising range.
Range isn’t the anxiety it used to be, but carmakers
remain focused on making their EVs go as far as possible.
Chris Randall takes a look at some of the ways they do it.
R
ange is a precious commodity
when it comes to electric
vehicles. It has increased greatly
since the first mainstream EVs
arrived on the market when barely a
hundred miles was often the most you
could expect. Nowadays, plenty of models
claim to cover more like three times that
distance before a recharge is required,
although such figures don’t often translate
to real world driving. The vagaries of the
WLTP (World-harmonised Light Vehicle
Test Procedure) testing process means
many EV drivers find range falls far short
of what they hoped to achieve; if you
assume that actual range will be around
75% of the claimed figure you won’t be too
far out. But as car manufacturers employ
ever-more sophisticated technology to
help motorists eke out as many miles as
possible, we’re taking a closer look here
at how they do it.
52 Car Mechanics
January 2023
Aerodynamics
Vehicle aerodynamics have been a focus
for many decades, leading to major
improvements in performance and fuel
consumption, but it’s taken on renewed
significance in the electric era. Says
Nissan: “Aerodynamic testing is becoming
increasingly important. The aerodynamics
of electric vehicles are directly linked to how
efficiently the vehicle moves – less drag and
better stability allows the customer to drive
longer distances before having to recharge.”
Posing a particular challenge when
many EVs are bulky crossovers and SUVs,
the traditional techniques of minimising
panel gaps and employing flat underbody panelling have been joined by the
even greater optimisation of individual
parts such as wheels, door handles, and
door mirrors. Using flush-fitting door
handles that only pop out when the
Careful wheel design contributes to a
reduction in drag.
doors are unlocked, and replacing the
traditional bulky door mirrors with small
cameras are examples of the changes in
design driven by the need to reduce drag,
even if only by small amounts. There’s
also the careful balancing of cooling and
aerodynamic requirements such as the
Active Air Flap system on the Hyundai
Ioniq 5. Hyundai say the difference in the
coefficient of drag (Cd) is about 0.013
between open and closed, which is worth
around 4.5 miles of range.
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D R I V IN
TOWAR G
DS
2030
Systems that allow the adjustment of
regenerative braking levels are commonplace.
Brake energy recuperation
Often referred to as regenerative braking,
it’s been employed on hybrid vehicles for
many years, but it plays a much greater
role on pure EVs where every bit of energy
needs to be saved. Using the motor as a
generator to produce electrical energy as
well as slowing the car, maximising the
energy that can be returned to the battery,
requires increasingly sophisticated
control to balance how much work is
done by the motors and how much by
the conventional brakes.
Porsche say its Taycan model can
recuperate up to 290kW that’s fed
back into the battery, while Audi say
that braking from 62mph in an e-tron
recovers 220kW, figures that can
significantly boost range during the
course of a journey. Adjustable levels of
regeneration (via a pre-selected mode
or steering wheel paddles) is another
common feature, allowing many EVs to
offer ‘one-pedal’ driving whereby lifting
the throttle produces regeneration strong
enough to bring the car to a halt without
using the brakes at all. And going a step
further, Volkswagen equips its ID. models
with an Eco Assistance system; analysing
data from the navigation system and using
the forward-facing cameras to detect road
signs it can tell when the car is approaching
a slower speed zone or a slower vehicle and
reminds the driver to lift off the throttle,
thus maximising energy recovery.
Thermal management
Batteries work at their best when
operating in a specific temperature range,
with around 30°C being considered the
optimum (every EV driver will have
noticed how cold weather can reduce
range by a significant degree) which is
why today’s models employ ever-more
complex cooling and heating systems to
manage battery temperature. Extremes
of hot or cold will have a negative effect
on energy consumption, and thus range,
so precise control is important.
Constant measurement and
adjustment within the cooling circuit(s)
help maintain the battery at its best
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This is the heating and cooling circuits for the Porsche
Taycan. Thermal management plays an important
role in improving battery performance and range.
The Honda e features rear view cameras
instead of bulky door mirrors, further
improving aerodynamics.
working temperature, taking into account
things like driving conditions and climate
control system use. And more is done
such as connection to the navigation
system so that setting a route to a
charger starts the cooling of the battery
in preparation; Audi say that DC fast
charging can heat the battery up to 50°C,
so efficient cooling is crucial. And in
colder temperatures waste heat from the
powertrain and high-voltage components
can be used to warm the battery, helping
to minimise the reduction in range.
Saving energy
Using the energy within the drive battery
to power systems such as climate control
is going to reduce range. Which is why
many EVs allow the driver to heat or cool
the cabin in advance – often remotely
via a mobile phone app – whilst the car
is charging, reducing the need to use the
system while driving. Driver-selectable
modes are also employed which limit
the amount of power diverted to the
climate control system, or shut it down
completely; for example, VW’s ID. models
feature Normal (full climate control), ECO
(less power to climate control) and ECO+
(all power to motors only) modes. And a
further piece of technology is heat pumps
that utilise waste heat from the powertrain
and high voltage components to warm
the cabin, thereby reducing the energy
required by the climate control system.
EV maker, Polestar, say it can reduce
the latter by as much as 50% and in
Volvo’s Range Assistant helps the driver to
make best use of available battery power.
colder weather conditions range can be
increased by 10%.
Better software
Car companies spend lots of money (and
time) on software development, which
can pay off when it comes to increasing
an EV’s range. It can result in all manner
of incremental improvements, such
as unlocking more usable power from
a battery pack, improving thermal
management and pre-conditioning, more
effective regenerative braking settings,
and altering how power is distributed
between motors on dual-motor models.
This latter was the case for an update
on an Audi e-tron model whereby the
original set-up was changed so that now,
in normal driving, only the rear motor
was used, the front one being almost
entirely disconnected.
Volvo is another example of a
manufacturer using a software update
to improve its EVs. In October 2021
improvements to its XC40 Recharge model
not only included some of those outlined
above but also added a Range Assistant
app to the infotainment system. Along
with providing the driver with tips for
more efficient driving it contained range
optimisation functionality to adjust the
climate control system and improve range.
All of these things can be achieved via
‘Over-The-Air’ software downloads (see
the June 2022 issue of CM for more on
this), so a useful boost in range comes
with no inconvenience to the owner.
Car Mechanics
January 2023
53
Service Bay
Overall
difficulty
rating
2013 LAND ROVER
FREELANDER 2.2D
Second-gen
servicing
Rob Hawkins visits
independent Land Rover
specialist Four Plus 4 to
follow them servicing a
second-generation 2013
Freelander turbodiesel.
Underbonnet
layout
THANKS GO TO
Four Plus 4 Limited
0113 243 8116
www.fourplus4-leeds.co.uk
T
he compact SUV-styled Freelander
was initially a disappointment
in its Mk1 guise, especially the
Rover K-series petrol-powered
models, so has the second generation
from 2006 to 2014 fared any better? We
think it has, especially after spending
time with independent specialist Four
Plus 4 and following a service of a 2013
model that’s powered by a TD4 2179cc
common-rail twin-cam diesel engine.
Serviceable items are straightforward
to access along with the majority of
components that need to be inspected.
12V BATTERY
AIR FILTER
HOUSING
BRAKE/CLUTCH
FLUID RESERVOIR
ENGINE OIL
FILLER CAP
ENGINE OIL
DIPSTICK
COOLANT
EXPANSION
TANK
FUEL FILTER
PAS FLUID
RESERVOIR
SCREENWASH
Rob says
 If you don’t have
diagnostic equipment to
connect to a Freelander to
activate the Service Mode
to back off the electronic
handbrake calipers,
then there is an alternative procedure,
according to Four Plus 4. With the
ignition on and the handbrake off, hold
the handbrake switch in the off position
and press the throttle pedal to the floor.
Hold this for a couple of seconds, then
switch the ignition off and on again and
release the throttle pedal and handbrake
switch. Service Mode will now have been
activated – you should have heard the
handbrake motors moving.
When you are ready to use the
handbrake again and have finished
working on the rear brakes, switch on
the ignition, hold the handbrake switch
on, press the throttle pedal to the floor,
then switch the ignition off and on before
releasing the pedal and handbrake switch.
Service Mode should now be switched off
and the handbrake can be used.
Equipment required
› jack › axle stands (or ramp) › oil drain tray/
container › sockets/spanners (8-27mm) › Torx
T25-55 › Hex/Allen: 6-7mm › screwdrivers › pry
bar › battery tester › spray and copper grease
› penetrating fluid › tyre pump/gauge › torch ›
torque wrench › clean measuring jug › brake pad
thickness gauge › Vernier calipers › fuel pump/
primer › wire brush › caliper windback tool
Seized injectors, glow or spark plugs? Injector
and Glow Plug Dismanting Aid is the answer
54 Car Mechanics
January 2023
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Service Bay 2013 LAND ROVER FREELANDER 2
TOP TIP
UNDERBONNET CHECKS
The cooling
system’s
capacity is
8-8.5 litres.
1 TOP-UP SCREENWASH
Extract the screenwash reservoir filter from
inside the top of the filler neck and wash it out.
Top-up the reservoir with screenwash, then
operate the front and rear wipers and washers
to check the spray jets are clear and working.
4 GREASE LOCKS & HINGES
Spray a light grease over the bonnet locking
mechanism and all the hinges for the bonnet,
doors and tailgate. Operate all of them to
help work the grease inside and keep them
moving freely.
2 CHECK PAS FLUID
The power steering fluid reservoir is next to
the screenwash filler neck. Shine a torch on
the side of the reservoir to check the level
inside – there are MIN and MAX markers on
the side. If it’s low, top-up with CHF202.
5 TEST BATTERY
The vehicle battery is located on the nearside
of the engine bay. Lift the plastic trim to
expose it. Check its terminals are securely
fitted and the battery is also secure. Use a
battery tester to check its condition.
3 TEST COOLANT
Use an antifreeze hydrometer to check the
freezing capacity of the coolant inside the
expansion tank. Only release the pressure cap
when the engine is cold. Check the level inside
and top-up with whatever has been used before.
6 INSPECT AUX BELT
The auxiliary drive belt can be visually
inspected from the offside of the engine bay,
but can also be checked from underneath,
once the engine undertray has been removed.
Look for cracks across the ribs and fraying.
AIR & FUEL FILTERS
7 CHECK BRAKE & CLUTCH FLUID
The brake/clutch fluid reservoir is located
under a plastic inspection panel. Release
two plastic tags to remove. Shine a torch on
the side of the reservoir to check the level
against a max marker, or unscrew the cap and
look inside for min and max markers. Renew
the DOT 4 fluid every three years.
8 REMOVE LID
Starting with the air filter, undo four Torx T25
screws (sometimes they are a crosshead type)
to release the lid of the air filter housing in
the nearside of the engine bay. Lift the lid to
expose the old air filter, then extract it and
clean inside the housing.
9 REPLACE AIR FILTER
Check the new air filter is the same shape and
size as the old one, then fit the new one inside
the housing, making sure its rubber edges are
correctly seated to avoid them being trapped
by the lid. If you intend to change the fuel
filter, do not refit the air filter housing’s lid.
Restore the original performance and efficiency
of the engine with Injection Cleaner
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Car Mechanics
January 2023
55
Service Bay 2013 LAND ROVER FREELANDER 2
AIR & FUEL FILTERS CONTINUED
10 REMOVE ENGINE COVER
The engine cover needs to be removed to
access the fuel filter. Undo two 8mm bolts
and one 10mm nut (it secures the induction
pipe), then prise the engine cover off its
locating lugs to remove it.
11 DETACH METAL COVER
The fuel filter is at the front of the engine bay.
There’s a metal cover in the way, so undo its
four 10mm nuts and move it aside to create
more room for accessing the fuel filter.
14 REPLACE FUEL FILTER
13 UNDO HEX BOLTS
The fuel filter is secured in position with
three 6mm Allen/Hex bolts. Undo all three of
them and then try to lift the fuel filter up a
little to release the last two fuel pipes.
With all the fuel pipes disconnected from
the top of the fuel filter, lift it up further and
detach anything that’s secured to the base,
such as a plug connector or drain tube. Fit the
new fuel filter, reconnecting anything at the
base before lowering it into position.
CABIN FILTER
16 FIND THE FILTER
The cabin filter is accessed from inside the
passenger side footwell. Release a plastic
trim panel to expose several fuses. To the
right of them is an oblong-shaped plastic
panel – unclip and remove this to see the side
of the cabin filter.
12 DETACH PLUGS AND PIPES
Release the electrical plug connector on the
top of the fuel filter and the two offside fuel
pipe connections. The remaining two fuel
pipes will be released in the next step.
15 PRIME THE FILTER
A bellows-style in-line fuel primer can be
used to pull fuel through the empty fuel filter,
attaching it to the outlet shown here (all other
fuel pipes must be connected to the fuel filter).
Afterwards, refit the fuel filter’s mounting
bolts and the cover, then start the engine.
OIL & FILTER
17 REPLACE CABIN FILTER
Pull the old cabin filter out of its housing.
It’s a tight fit and quite awkward to remove.
Check the airflow arrows are pointing to the
rear of the vehicle and that the shape and
size of the new one is the same. Fit the new
cabin filter and refit the two panels.
18 REMOVE UNDERTRAY
Undo six 13mm bolts that secure the engine
undertray to the underside of the front
subframe. These may be corroded, so spray
over them with penetrating fluid first.
Which oil is the right one? Check out
the online oil guide at www.liqui-moly.com
56 Car Mechanics
January 2023
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Service Bay 2013 LAND ROVER FREELANDER 2
19 DRAIN ENGINE OIL
With an oil drain container positioned below
the oil sump, undo the 21mm drain plug and
leave the oil to drain for several minutes. Whilst
this is draining, move on to removing the oil
filter, which will help to release more engine oil.
20 REMOVE OIL FILTER
Armed with a 27mm socket, slacken the oil
filter housing from the front underside of
the engine bay. Leave it for a few minutes to
help drain any oil inside it, then remove it,
catching any oil that spills out.
21 REPLACE O-RING
Extract the old filter from the housing. Use a
pick to remove the rubber O-ring around the
thread of the oil filter housing. Fit a new O-ring
and smear some fresh oil around it to reduce
the risk of it tearing when fitting the housing.
UNDERSIDE CHECKS
22 REFIT FILTER & DRAIN PLUG
Fit a new oil filter into the housing, making
sure it clicks into position. Refit the housing
on to the engine and tighten it to 25Nm. If
the engine oil has stopped draining, fit a new
drain plug and tighten it to 20Nm.
25 INSPECT STEERING
Check the condition of the dust covers around
the track rod end balljoints, looking for splits in
the rubber and signs of grease escaping, which
could let dirt and water inside. Also, squeeze
the corrugated rubber covers on the steering
track rods to look for similar problems.
23 REFILL ENGINE OIL
Pour 5.9 litres of fully-synthetic 5W-30 into
the engine. Afterwards, check the level on
the dipstick and top-up if required. Run the
engine, check for leaks, switch off and recheck
the dipstick, which should be halfway between
the minimum and maximum markers.
26 WIGGLE DROPLINKS
Grab hold of the front and rear anti-roll bar
droplinks and give them a shake to check for
play in their balljoints. Shake the ends of the
anti-roll bar and use a pry bar to lever against
their mounts.
24 PINCH BOOTS
Squeeze the corrugated rubber gaiters for
the front and rear driveshafts to check for
splits and leaking grease. Any such damage
can allow dirt and water to get inside that
can lead to premature wear.
27 LOOK FOR CORROSION
Inspect the front and rear subframes for
corrosion. Remove any surface corrosion with a
wire brush and treat with a rust inhibitor. Four
Plus 4 hasn’t found any major corrosion issues
on the Freelander 2, but still worth checking.
Sticky manual transmission?
Gear Oil Additive can help
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January 2023
57
Service Bay 2013 LAND ROVER FREELANDER 2
UNDERSIDE CHECKS CONTINUED
28 LEVER LOWER ARMS
Check the condition of the mounting bushes
and outer balljoint for each front lower
suspension arm. FP4 says there can be some
movement in the bushes, so check further by
wiggling a raised road wheel and listen for
knocks on a test drive.
31 CHECK COIL SPRINGS
There are MacPherson struts at each corner of
the Freelander. Their coil springs can be visually
inspected over the top of each tyre (avoid
touching them in case you trap your fingers).
Look for fractured coils and excessive corrosion.
29 CHECK REAR ARMS
Use a pry bar to check the mounting bushes
for the rear suspension arms, including
the two lower arms and the trailing arm at
each rear corner. Just like the fronts, some
movement may be detected, so further
investigation may be needed.
32 INSPECT EXHAUST
Check all the rubber hangers for the exhaust
system, replacing any that have perished and
split. If it’s safe to run the engine and look
underneath the vehicle, listen for leaks from
the exhaust system.
TOP TIP
TOP TIP
The rear diff holds
a maximum of 0.7
litres of gear oil.
The Haldex holds
a maximum of
0.65 litres and is
filled for life.
34 CHECK REAR DIFF OIL
Undo the 13mm filler/inspection plug on the
side of the rear differential. If oil doesn’t drip
out, feed a cable tie inside to check where the
level is – it should be just below the filler hole.
Top-up with GL5-rated 80W-90 gear oil.
35 CHECK HALDEX OIL
The Haldex unit is forward of the rear
differential. Undo its 13mm filler/inspection
plug and check the oil level inside in the same
way as for the rear differential. Top-up with
the recommended Haldex oil (Land Rover
part number LR054941).
30 WIGGLE WHEELS
Wiggle each raised road wheel from top-tobottom and side-to-side to check for play
in the suspension and steering (front only).
Spin the wheel and listen for wheel bearing
failure. This will help to clarify any problems
found in the previous suspension checks.
33 CHECK PROPSHAFT
The propshaft can be accessed from the
underside of the Freelander. Wiggle it a little
to check for play in any universal joints,
which can be further tested with a pry bar.
36 CHECK POWER TAKE OFF
The transfer box or power take off unit is
behind the engine. Undo its 13mm filler/
inspection plug with a 13mm spanner (there’s
no room for a socket) to check the level inside.
Top-up with Castrol BOT 118 Plus (it holds a
maximum of 0.8 litres).
Extra wear protection
for the engine with Cera Tec
58 Car Mechanics
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Service Bay 2013 LAND ROVER FREELANDER 2
BRAKE CHECKS
37 CHECK BRAKE PAD THICKNESS
There’s room to squeeze a pad thickness
gauge into position without having to take off
the road wheels, though it’s easier with them
removed. Plus, this ensures the pads are more
thoroughly inspected. The friction material
should be at least 3mm deep and evenly worn.
38 CHECK BRAKE DISCS
Use a pair of digital Verniers or Vernier calipers
to measure the thickness of the discs. The
fronts should be a minimum of 26mm, whereas
solid rears should be 9mm or ventilated should
be 18mm. If a disc needs changing, both discs
and pads across an axle must be renewed.
40 REPLACING DISCS
If the brake discs need replacing, the caliper
carriers will need to be removed – their
mounting bolts should be tightened to
200Nm on the front and 110Nm on the rear.
Each disc is secured with a Torx T55 screw,
tightened to 35Nm.
Don’t forget to also
 CHECK TYRES
Inspect treads,
sidewalls and
pressures.
 CHECK WIPERS
Look for splits in
the rubber blades.
 INSPECT FILLER
CAP Check the
rubber seal isn’t
perished.
 TIGHTEN WHEEL
BOLTS Tighten
them all to 70Nm,
then 133Nm.
 CHECK BRAKE
LINES Inspect
brake pipes and
hoses.
39 REPLACING PADS
If the brake discs and pads need replacing, the
front calipers are secured with two 7mm Allen
key bolts, whereas the rears are two 13mm
bolts. These should be tightened to 28/30Nm
(front/rear). Retract the caliper’s piston using
water pump pliers or a windback tool.
42 COPPER GREASE
41 CLEAN CARRIER & HUB
When replacing the brake discs, it’s worthwhile
cleaning the caliper carrier (and when
replacing the pads) and the mating surface
on the hub before fitting any new parts.
When fitting new pads, fit new shims into the
carriers and apply a smear of copper grease
to the top and bottom edges of the pads’ back
material (not the friction material). Afterwards,
check the brake fluid level and pump the brake
pedal before driving the vehicle.
SERVICE SCHEDULE
(As recommended by Four Plus 4)
EVERY 16,000 MILES or 12 MONTHS
 Change engine oil & oil filter
 Replace air filter
 Replace cabin filter
 Check coolant level & test concentration
 Check tyre condition, pressure & tread
 Top-up screenwash fluid
 Check battery
 Check wiper blades & washer jets
 Check all underbonnet components &
hoses for fluid leaks
 Inspect brakes
 Check steering & suspension components
 Check auxiliary drive belt
 Inspect exhaust system & mountings
 Check operation of all electrical systems
 Lubricate all locks & hinges
 Check brake fluid for moisture content
EVERY 30,000 MILES or 24 MONTHS
 Replace fuel filter
EVERY 36 MONTHS
 Change brake fluid
EVERY 72 MONTHS
 Replace brake flexi-hoses
EVERY 120 MONTHS
 Replace coolant
EVERY 150,000 MILES
or 120 MONTHS
 Replace timing belt & components
 Replace auxiliary drive belt
 Replace gearbox, differential & transfer
box oil
Upgrade your oil change with Engine Flush Plus
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January 2023
59
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60 Car Mechanics
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01732 445674
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Independent Service & Repair Centre
We are an established company based in Peterborough, Cambridgeshire and have
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WS02A
CM03
Car Mechanics
January 2023
61
Electronic
Diagnostics
JAGUAR
XE
2.0D
Tracing and fixing faults in electronic engine management systems
Tasker & Lacy reveals
the common problems
that can arise on a
2017 Jaguar XE that’s
powered by a 2.0-litre
Ingenium diesel engine.
Rob Hawkins reports...
J
aguar’s mid-sized rear-wheel-drive
saloon is a popular model and its
1999cc twin-cam Ingenium diesel
engine is found in a number of
other vehicles including the F-PACE.
Independent Jaguar specialist, Tasker
& Lacy of Leeds, has fixed numerous
issues on these engines, so we asked them
to reveal the common disasters that can
arise. There’s quite a lot that can happen,
although we can’t guarantee that all of
these problems will arise on your XE.
Some of the issues we’ve highlighted
require several checks to be conducted
to resolve them, such as the failure of
a NOx sensor that’s found attached to
the exhaust system and accessed on the
underside of the vehicle. In some cases,
the NOx sensor won’t have failed.
The Ingenium diesel engine is known
for having worn timing chains, which can
have a knock-on effect with sensor and
turbocharger failure, so if an engine’s
chains sound noisy, it’s worthwhile having
them checked and if necessary, renewed.
The XE shown here had a few
problems that needed resolving. It was
concluded that the NOx sensor had
failed, but we also discovered the AdBlue
injector was partially blocked with
crystallised residue, which wouldn’t
help, so this had to be cleaned along
with fitting a new sensor.
1999cc 4-cylinder 16v turbodiesel
Tech Specs
Engine
1999cc
Engine code
AJ-200D
Engine oil
0W-30 fully-synthetic
Oil capacity (with filter) 6.52 litres
Coolant capacity
11 litres
TORQUE SETTINGS
Drain plug
25Nm
Oil filter
25Nm
Road wheels 70Nm, then 125Nm
LAMBDA
SENSOR
DPF
PRESSURE
SENSOR
MANIFOLD
ABSOLUTE
PRESSURE
SENSOR
TURBOCHARGER
BOOST
PRESSURE
SENSOR
THROTTLE
BODY
FUSEBOX
62 Car Mechanics
DPF
PRESSURE
SENSOR
January 2023
MAF
SENSOR
CAMSHAFT
POSITION
SENSOR
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Electronic Diagnostics JAGUAR XE 2.0D INGENIUM
Typical Jaguar XE COMPONENTS
The OBDII diagnostic socket is
located underneath the driver’s side
of the dashboard, inside the footwell.
T&L uses the official JLR equipment to
communicate with the vehicle’s electronics.
To reduce the risk of a drop in vehicle
battery voltage, an external power
source should be connected to the vehicle.
Whilst the battery is inside the boot, there are
suitable power connections in the engine bay.
The MAF sensor is in the nearside
front corner of the engine bay, next
to the air filter housing. T&L says that it’s
reliable and rarely causes any problems.
A manifold absolute pressure (MAP)
sensor is on the nearside of the engine
bay, which is attached to the inlet manifold.
The camshaft position sensor (CPS) is
easy to see once the upper engine cover
has been removed (it’s clipped into position
and only needs prising off its mounts). The
CPS should be renewed whenever the timing
chains, tensioners and guides are replaced.
The wiring and electrical connectors
for the four injectors are routed
across the top of the engine.
1
2
3
5
4
There’s a Lambda (Oxygen) sensor in full view on the offside
of the engine bay, next to the turbocharger – with plenty of
space around it to be able to undo it with a suitable socket.
7
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6
There are two DPF pressure sensors. One is at the rear of the
engine bay, behind the turbocharger and the other is at the
front, next to the turbocharger.
8
Car Mechanics
January 2023
63
Electronic Diagnostics JAGUAR XE 2.0D INGENIUM
Thanks to
Tasker & Lacy
0113 274 3362
taskerandlacy.com
Typical Jaguar XE COMPONENTS
9
The throttle body sits close to the turbocharger and consists
of a fly-by-wire control (no mechanical throttle cable).
There’s a fusebox on the offside front of the engine bay,
which includes a protected positive connection for an
external power source (as mentioned in step 2).
10
The 12V 80Ah battery is located
inside the boot. Walter at T&L
explains that the battery must be in good
condition and remain fully charged to
ensure the vehicle’s Stop-Start system
works. It’s worthwhile testing the battery
at every service interval.
13
The small boost pressure sensor
shown here is located underneath the
air filter housing and induction pipework in
the nearside front corner of the engine bay.
11
There’s an exhaust gas temperature
sensor underneath the turbocharger,
accessed from within the engine bay.
12
Typical Jaguar XE FAULTS
CONTAMINATED ADBLUE – The NOx sensor
attached to the exhaust system (located on the
underside of the vehicle) is known to fail, resulting
in several fault codes, but this can be caused by
several other problems, such as the AdBlue being
contaminated. A sample of AdBlue can be drained from
within the nearside rear wheelarch and tested with a hydrometer.
FAULT
1
64 Car Mechanics
January 2023
BLOCKED ADBLUE INJECTOR – If the injector for
the AdBlue (located forwards of the NOx sensor
underneath the vehicle) is blocked with crystallised
residue, this can also raise a NOx sensor fault. Detach
the injector from the system to visually inspect it for
residue. T&L can check its operation and look at the spray
pattern to see if it’s sufficient.
FAULT
2
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Electronic Diagnostics JAGUAR XE 2.0D INGENIUM
FAILED NOX SENSOR – If the NOx sensor
has definitely failed (faults 1, 2 and 4 have
been checked and even the exhaust system
checked for leaks), then its replacement
can be quite straightforward. The new one
should include a new control module. After
detaching the wiring, check for corrosion, which is common
according to T&L. Use a 22mm open-ended spanner to undo
the old NOx sensor and fit a new one.
FAULT
3
DPF TEMP SENSOR –
Tucked up behind the
back of the engine bay,
but accessed from
underneath, there’s a
temperature sensor for the DPF
(note the orange-coloured wiring in our
photo) which can become dislodged,
resulting in a NOx-related fault code.
FAULT
4
TURBOCHARGER FAILURE
– Often caused by general
wear and tear, although
T&L has seen several
failures on low-mileage
vehicles. Noisy timing chains can
contribute to turbocharger failure. The
one shown here has a leak, judging by the
soot that’s covering it.
FAULT
5
LOWPRESSURE EGR – A filter inside the lowpressure EGR valve on the offside of the engine bay
(underneath the throttle body and turbocharger)
can become blocked, resulting in an EML and
emissions problems. Renewing it usually fixes the
problem. On the opposite side of the engine, there’s another
EGR, which isn’t so problematic (see our inset photo).
FAULT
7
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CPS – If the engine is noisy
and rattly, and fault code
P0341 is raised, then its
timing chains and the
camshaft position sensor
usually need to be renewed. Timing
chain trouble is a common problem,
with reports of snapped chain guides
occurring before 50,000 miles.
FAULT
6
VVT SOLENOID – Failure can result in reduced
performance. Inside this electronic device, there’s a
small plunger that can stick. Plus, there’s only one
oilway on the older VVT solenoids, whereas this has
now been updated with two on the revised unit.
FAULT
8
Car Mechanics
January 2023
65
Help!
Your non-diagnostic
vehicle-related problems
solved by Steve Rothwell
Clutch
operation
Q
Can you explain to me the clutch
actuation system with specific
reference to the fulcrum load effort
system of the release fingers?
A McCalla
A
This is a very general question
and load effort at the fulcrum
will alter according to the size of
the clutch and the torque which will need
to be transmitted through the clutch.
This will vary according to the design of
the vehicle drivetrain. The pressure on
the clutch plate will also alter according
to the diameter and the size of the clutch
pressure diaphragm spring. Most clutch
release systems where a fulcrum is applied,
place the fulcrum towards the centre of
the lever, and so the distance travelled,
and effort applied are quite equal.
On most vehicles the clutch release
system normally operates via either a
cable or a hydraulic system, electronic
clutch control on some vehicles being
the exception. Whilst the cable operated
systems will normally operate the
release lever, using a fulcrum, the
hydraulic systems will use either a
fulcrum operating via a lever, or on some
models use a concentric slave cylinder.
On these systems the diaphragm of the
clutch pressure plate is operated directly
from the slave cylinder which applies
pressure on the release bearing without
the use of a lever or fulcrum.
As a very general example an average
26cm diameter clutch takes about
540Nm of effort to release, but as there
are so many factors that can vary, this is
only a very general assessment.
GENERAL
EV gearboxes
Q
Just hoping you guys can explain
something that’s been puzzling
me for some time – why don’t EVs
have gearboxes? I get that they have full
torque across the full rev range, but surely,
with a gearbox, you’d get even better
Age of engine oil
Q
Just wondering what your opinion is regarding oils that have been opened and are
slightly over/still within their 4/5-year shelf life. Oils are Mobil 1 0W-40 and Castrol
Edge 5W-40. The Mobil 1 is the one over its 5-year shelf life with a production
date of June 2017 and August 2020 for the Castrol that has a 4-year lifespan. However,
I’ve become aware that these timeframes are probably based on the oil being unopened.
The Mobil 1 has been stored in the house whilst the Castrol has been in the shed. I rang
Mobil technical, and they said it would be OK to use if drained next year. I explained it
will have only covered 5k by then, but they couldn’t recommend leaving any longer.
However, I forgot to mention it had been opened and now I can’t get back through.
I’ve poured some of each into a clear plastic bottle, mostly because I wanted to see if
they were uniform in colour from top to bottom which they are. I did notice that both
had bubbles present, the bubbles in the Mobil 1 dispersed fairly quickly but there’s still
as I write a group of 7 or so remaining in the Castrol after 30-40 minutes after pouring.
Is it natural for bubbles to occur from just pouring? Could this be an indication that the
anti-foaming additives are becoming depleted along with a plethora of other additives.
Anthony Pattinson
January 2023
Readers photos of the Mobil 1 to the
left and the Castrol Edge to the right.
A
The deterioration of the oil will
begin to take place at a greater
rate once the container is
opened. Reacting with the air will cause
oxidation as the oil molecules react with
the air, even resealing the container
will not address this issue as the air will
already be introduced. This can have the
effect of increasing the acidity of the oil as well as altering the viscosity.
The additives in the oil are known to separate after extended periods, but in a
sealed container that has not been exposed to the atmosphere, it is acceptable to
simply shake the oil up to redistribute the additives through the oil.
I would take the advice of the Mobil technical helpline and would not consider
the oil to be stable enough to retain in the engine for a period longer than one year.
It is generally the additives which are mixed into the oil which would allow it to be
used for a longer period, and whilst the base oil may still be good, it is possibly the
additives having been exposed to the atmosphere that would now let it down.
performance at lower speeds, and higher
efficiency in a higher gear at higher speeds?
Craig McWiggan
A
The combustion engine has not
only a limited torque range but
also a limited rev range, so it needs
a gearbox to enable the correct power to
be transmitted to the wheels and allow
it to turn at the correct speed to produce
sufficient torque to allow the vehicle to
travel across a range of speeds whilst
maintaining the ability to pull away and
climb hills. Without a gearbox, this would
not be possible with a combustion engine.
The electric motor has a much wider
rev range (up to around 20,000rpm) and
has a constant power output throughout
that range. Most EVs are designed with a
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66 Car Mechanics
GENERAL
GENERAL
GENERAL
single gear which offers a good range for
both pulling away and top speed, within
the parameters of the motor.
Some EVs do use a multi-ratio gearbox
system such as the Porsche Taycan which
gives a high power start-off and then
offers a higher top speed at reduced
motor speeds.
Unlike a combustion engine the
performance of the electric motor and
the efficiency would not be improved by
the use of multi-ratio gears, the power
output – power consumption ratio – is
not altered by the speed of the motor.
Adding a gearbox would add friction
to the driveline which in itself would
reduce efficiency, and so with an
available range of 0-100mph, the fitting
of a gearbox would not be logical.
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IN ASSOCIATION WITH
JEEP COMPASS
Irritating faults
JEEP PATRIOT
Engine balance
shaft worry
Q
I have a 2009 Jeep Patriot CRD with
the VW 2.0 CRD engine. An old
mechanic friend told me that some
of these engines are prone to balance shaft
breakages, so I was wondering whether
you have any info on this problem and how
I can prevent it?
Also, just recently, I changed the lower
arm balljoint (an advisory at the MOT) and
noticed that the new lower arm balljoint
had a very thin washer about the size of a
medal on top of the rubber boot holding
down the spout of the rubber. There are
no clips/wire sealing ties on either the
top or bottom of the rubber boot and
it can’t be moved without some sort of
leverage, so my first thought was that it
might be for packing purposes. However,
on the underside of the washer, around
the hole through which the balljoint goes,
it is lipped slightly, allowing it to fit snugly
inside the top of the rubber boot keeping
the spout all nice and square.
Then, after joining the balljoint to the hub
and with everything tightened up, I noticed
the rubber boot was squashed slightly,
making the top fatter and just inside of the
diameter of the washer, so I assumed the
washer acts as a shield to keep out muck,
etc. Can you tell me if that is right or advise
what purpose the washer serves.
Peter Walmsley
A
The VAG engine prone to balance
shaft problems was the earlier
unit and, as far as I can discover,
the last of these engines was produced
in 2007. Although the later unit was
basically the same engine, the oil pump
drive system was changed from a chain
drive to a gear drive. The units with
a chain-driven oil pump and balance
shafts will begin to become noisy before
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Q
We are owners of our second Jeep Compass Latitude 2.2 diesel. The engine is
of Mercedes-Benz ancestry, not to be confused with the earlier VW-engined
vehicles. Our first Latitude was a 61-reg model, which proved a reliable and
comfortable vehicle for 100,000 miles. We updated for a 64-reg model with 30,000 miles
and FSH in almost-new condition. Both vehicles have a manual six-speed gearbox and
climate control. They also have the same irritating faults.
The DLRs blow bulbs on a regular basis. They are 21W-5W bulbs mounted in a plastic
plug which push-fits into the wiring loom, with the ‘21W’ being the DLR element. It
doesn’t matter if you use cheap or expensive bulbs – they all blow, sometimes after just
a few hundred miles, presumably due to heat. Cleaning contacts makes no difference.
The second problem is coolant loss. This Mercedes engine has a Fiat/Chrysler-designed
combined steering and water pump, which on earlier models was known to give
trouble and cause water leaks from the inlet and outlet pipes. On our first Latitude, the
pump failed and had to be replaced at a cost of £400 plus labour. The engine behaved
normally except for continued slight water loss during the rest of our ownership.
Our new vehicle does exactly the same thing. Aware of the earlier faults, we have
inspected hoses connections and pressure-checked everything, including the radiator,
without success. We replaced the coolant cap with a new one, but the header tank
still needs topping-up with about 75cl of water every 2000 miles. As with the previous
vehicle, the engine drives normally and provides 44/45mpg.
Mel
A
As you say, the DRLs have an inherent
problem due to heat build-up in the
lamp. When fitting the bulb, it may
help to clean the bulb with a soft cloth before
fitting it. The oils on skin cause the glass to
retain heat and may contribute to shortening
the life of the bulb. One alternative, which
other Jeep owners have tried, is to use an LED
bulb replacement, such as the ones on this
website: https://bit.ly/2S1wg65. These LED bulb
The water pump and power steering
run at a lower temperature and should last longer.
pump fitted to the Jeep Compass.
Remember to ensure that any replacement bulb is
E-marked to satisfy legal requirements.
With regard to the coolant loss, I would have expected a leak of 75cl every 2000
miles to have shown up during a pressure-check. You have renewed the cooling
system pressure cap, which I would also have recommended.
There is another method which may help to discover the source of the leak,
which is to use a UV dye in the cooling system, running the vehicle for a while
before using an ultraviolet light to check for leaks. One area of concern is the
joint between the water and power steering pump, as a leak in this area may not
be readily detected.
If you fail to trace the leak, then there are two possible areas which may be not
easily spotted. The first is the heater matrix, which can weep slowly and, being
in a covered area, might remain undetected. If the screen takes a little longer to
demist and the demister is accompanied by a slight smell, this can sometimes be an
indication of a failing heater matrix. The other possibility is that the leak is within the
cylinder-head, possibly due to a small crack within the casting. However, as you have
no overheating problems, I would not expect the second option to be the problem.
the failure occurs and, at this stage,
the engine needs to be stripped down
and the oil pump drive chain and gears
replaced. Like all internal engine wear
problems, the best prevention is regular
oil changes to ensure the lubrication
properties of the engine are maximised.
Having checked the main dealer’s
parts list, I cannot see the washer you
mention listed as a separate item. There
was a recall of earlier Jeeps due to water
entering the balljoint rubber and causing
premature wear to the joint. The disc on
the new boot is more than likely part
of the modification that was applied to
prevent the boot being breached. From
your description, it sounds as though
this washer prevents the boot catching
on the hub when the steering is turned,
swivelling the joint.
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Help!
FIAT DUCATO
Parts
availability
Q
I am having trouble locating power
steering hoses and a speedometer
cable for my 2001 Swift Mondial
motorhome, based on a Fiat Ducato 1.9 TD,
and a local specialist cannot make up
duplicates. The problem seems to be the
age of the vehicle, even though it was very
popular with motor caravan manufacturers
at the time.
Philip Graham
A
The Fiat Ducato is a very popular
vehicle to use for a motorhome.
As motorhomes hold their value
and generally cover lower mileages than
regular vehicles, there are consequently
many still on the road. For this reason,
I was surprised at the lack of parts
available from the Fiat dealer.
I have located a company that should
be able to manufacture the hoses for
you: powersteeringstore.co.uk, although
its website was down for maintenance
at the time of writing. The company
also has a Facebook profile and I have
forwarded the details of this to you.
There are a few companies that
can make speedo cables to suit your
requirements and this one should be
able to help: cable-tec.co.uk
Not having used either of these
companies, these are only suggestions
and not recommendations.
FIAT PUNTO
Sticking
throttle
Q
As a regular subscriber to CM,
I was hoping you could help with
a problem with my 54-plate Punto
1200 8-valve manual. When changing up a
gear, the revs do not fall quickly enough for
a smooth gearchange and one has to wait
for a second or two for the revs to fall before
selecting a higher gear. This is dangerous
when pulling out, as traffic has nearly
crashed into the back of me a few times!
I have checked for the obvious culprits
such as a sticking throttle cable. Also, after
removing the air filter, the cable quickly
FIAT 500
Warning lights
Q
We have a 2010 Fiat 500 1.2 petrol. The other morning when it went cold the
vehicle would not start. The battery had gone. I have replaced the battery with
one from Halfords AGM027 Start-Stop battery. Now that this has been fitted
warning lights have appeared on the dashboard, for airbags, warning yellow triangle
and the yellow engine warning light, which flashes.
The engine is working well with no misfiring etc, and it
drives as before with no problems. I have removed the earth
lead and left it for two hours and then reattached to no avail.
I have used my Autel MaxiDiag MD808 Pro to do a scan.
But this has not helped. Any ideas on how I can cancel these
lights please? Look forward to hearing from you.
Mark Willetts
A
From the details I have on the Autel MaxiDiag
MD808 Pro, although it does cover a wide
number of systems, including oil service reset,
battery registration and reset, steering and brake
system, it does not appear to cover the airbag systems.
The lights you have may all refer to the airbag system,
and this may be why you cannot retrieve and clear any
fault codes. I would also be using the MD808 Pro to reset
the steering angle sensor as this may need doing.
If you did not disconnect the battery condition meter
before disconnecting and re-connecting the battery, it
may also be the case that this will need to be reset. The
The Autel MaxiDiag MD808 Pro.
MD808 Pro can do this according to the details I have and
so this procedure should be carried out using the BMS symbol on the screen.
snaps shut together with the butterfly valve
when the throttle is opened and closed.
Russell Munn
A
As you have checked the
operation of the throttle cable
and butterfly, the most likely
cause of your problem is the idle stepper
motor. This operates a spindle that
opens and closes an air duct to bypass
the throttle and adjust the idle speed.
This is normally used to prevent the
engine revs dropping too low at gear
changes, to prevent the engine from
cutting out. In your case, it is possible it
is holding the revs too high.
The stepper motor can be found below
the air filter housing and has a four-pin
connector. It may be worth removing
this and checking the small rubber
seal on the end of the plunger. I would
also check the continuity of the wiring
between the stepper motor and the ECU.
Another possibility is that the
throttle valve potentiometer is faulty
and sending incorrect information to
the ECU. This can be checked with a
voltmeter. The feed voltage should be 5V
and the output range should start from
0.6V with the throttle closed and steadily
rise to 4.7V as the throttle opens.
FIAT GRANDE PUNTO
Heavy steering
Q
I have a 57-reg Fiat Grande Punto
and when I switch on the engine the
steering wheel is tight and will not
move. Also, the battery light is present on the
display dashboard. The only way to loosen
the steering wheel is to turn off the engine,
which also extinguishes the battery light.
Mark Roebuck
A
From the symptoms you
describe, the most likely reason
for the steering failure is either
a failed alternator or a failing battery.
As you do not mention any starting
problems, I suspect the battery is in
good condition, but the alternator
has a problem. This would explain the
presence of the battery light on the dash.
The electric power steering will only
operate when the battery is charging,
hence the stiffness when the light is on.
If you have access to a voltmeter, you can
confirm this by testing the voltage across
the battery, which should be above 13.5
volts with the engine running.
As this appears to be an intermittent
problem, the first step would be to check
the connections to the battery and
alternator, ensuring the connections at the
terminals are clean and sufficiently tight.
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Help!
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
AUDI A6
AUDI A3
Fuel gauge
reading
Q
I have an annoying fuel gauge on
my 2002 Audi A3 turbodiesel – it
reads full, but as the fuel goes
down it gets to halfway on the gauge and
eventually the low fuel warning light comes
on. I have changed the fuel pump and sender
unit but the problem is still apparent. It’s
as if the fuel gauge needs calibrating. I also
think the temperature gauge is a little out.
Clive Edridge
A
Having changed the sender and
fuel pump unit, I am assuming
that the wiring and connectors
are also good. Before moving on to the
next stage it would be worth ensuring
that the loom from the sender is not
rubbing at any point.
The fuel gauge problem you describe
is quite common on the Audi A3, as well
as the TT and A6 models. If you can get
access to the VAG software, the operation
can be checked using the VAG-COM
system. The remedy is normally to have
the dash panel repaired by a company
such as bba-reman.com, which charges
£150 plus postage and packing, or
ecutesting.com for about £175.
AUDI A3
Tyre ratings
Q
I have a query regarding the tyre
ratings on my 2016 Audi A3 1.4
Sport. Three of the tyres have a
Y-rating however the garage which has just
fitted a replacement rear tyre has fitted a
W-rating. Is it OK to fit a tyre of a different
rating to the others? The tyre size is correct
and matches all other tyres.
Sanjay Mehta
A
The Y-rated tyres on your Audi
indicates that the tyres are for
use in speeds up to 186mph. The
W-rated tyres are for speeds up to 168mph.
So whilst this is quite adequate for your
Audi it is not up to the speed rating of
the other tyres fitted on the vehicle.
You have not mentioned the size
of the tyres fitted and there are a few
options, but I would check the speed
rating recommended for your vehicle
application by looking in the handbook
or on the tyre sticker on the vehicle.
Suspension adjustment
Q
My current vehicle is a 2010 Audi A6 2.0 TDI (170 Le Mans). I took it in for an
MOT last week and it failed on two broken rear springs. I rang my mate at the
accessory shop he runs and he got them in straight away.
The garage lent me a van and I picked them up, took them home and gave them a
couple of coats of Hammerite for extra protection (the garage couldn’t fit them that
day). I picked it up a couple of days later, the Audi was jammed in with a few other cars
but I managed to slide in and drive home. When I got there my eyes nearly popped
out, the rear end was sitting 50mm higher than previous. Strangely enough, the
week before the MOT I had measured the trim height (from the road to the bottom
of the wheelarch) and one side measured 660mm and the other 670mm, the 670mm
equalling the height on my old Quattro.
My first thought was that my mate had supplied the wrong springs but I cannot take
them back as I had painted them. I was reading the Haynes manual for the Audi A4 and
it mentions that the rear suspension can be adjusted for the ride height. Do you know
if this is also the case for the A6? I want to know what I am talking about before going
back to the garage that fitted the springs.
An Audi rear
Dave Spinks
suspension spring,
which comes in
different sizes.
A
Although some models of the A6 have
adaptive rear suspension, this is the
vehicles which have the air suspension
in which case the height is adjusted via the MMI
system. The coil springs are not adjustable and
it may be the case that the replacement springs
are incorrect.
A quick look has shown me a choice of no less
than seven different spring length possibilities
on your vehicle depending on both sports and
lowered suspension options, with the difference
between the longest and shortest of 83mm.
However, even if this is a W-rating as
opposed to the higher Y-rating you already
had fitted, I would not mix speed ratings
across an axle and would not expect a
tyre company to carry out such a fitment.
AUDI A3
Service data
Q
I have a 2019 Audi A3 TFSI 1.5 for
which a workshop manual is not
yet available I was hoping you
could supply a few details please. I think
at this stage there are just a few things it
would be useful to know:
Engine oil – I know this is a 5W-30 fullysynthetic. Should it conform to any special
VW code? For example my old 2010 A3 2.0
TDI required oil to VW 507.00 (would this
be acceptable to use as I still have some?).
What is the capacity?
Wheel nut torque setting (probably
about 89 lb ft?)
This is the first time I’ve owned an S-tronic
auto (indeed any auto) so what servicing
will that need (eventually)? Do I need to
check the level and how is this done, etc.?
Newer cars seem to require less and less
being attended to, but I always do an annual
service with oil change and renewal of all
filters and wiper blades, etc., together of
course with checking electrics, transmission,
brakes, suspension, steering, etc.
My other car is a home-built NGTF kit car
(MGB-based) which requires a little bit more
than checking (greasing, adjusting etc.),
but rather less on replacements. The NG is
much more familiar to me as it belongs to
the era in which I grew up!
Chris Humphreys
A
The recommended engine oil
I have for your A3 is 0W-20 VW
specification VW 508.00 with a
sump capacity of 4.3 litres.
The wheel nut torque settings are
120Nm (88.5lb-ft).
The transmission oil is filled-for-life
and the level cannot be checked, I would
consider replacing the oil at 5-6 year
intervals, as a precautionary measure.
The oil is SAE-G 052 512.
The only way to ensure the correct
amount of oil in the transmission, is to
drain it down and then refill with the
correct amount which is 1.7 litres, it
should be noted that the hydraulic control
system is separate and contains 1 litre of
hydraulic control fluid TypeG 004 000.
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Help!
SEAT LEON
Driver’s door
contact
Q
I have owned my 2014 SEAT Leon
SE Technology TSI 110 (DSG) for
about four years and, on a couple
of occasions, the message ‘Error driver door
contact’ has appeared on the dashboard. The
message usually disappears after a few days,
but recently it has appeared at the same
time I was switching off the headlights. At
the same time, a yellow triangular warning
sign appears on the dashboard. What do
you think the problem might be? Could it
result in the car failing its MOT?
Les Wright
A
The presence of the message on
the dash should not be cause for
a failure of the MOT. The tester
may wish to note it, but provided the
door is opening and closing correctly, it
should not be an issue.
The first point I would check is that
there are no broken or cracked wires in
the loom between the driver’s door and
the body. A break in one of the wires
could be causing the poor connection in
the circuit and triggering the message. If
the loom between the door and body is
good, then the most likely cause is that
the microswitch in the door lock is faulty.
This may be fixable using an electrical
cleaning spray or you may be able to
resolve the problem by removing the
door lock and checking the unit. If not, a
new door lock would be the answer.
SEAT LEON
Heater output
Q
I’m having trouble with the interior
heaters in my 2014 SEAT Leon 1.6
TDI. With the dial on fully hot, on
one day they are hot and on another they
are lukewarm or cold. Similarly, sometimes
the right vent will blow out warm air and
the left vent will be cool.
I have tried two new coolant bottle caps,
with no joy. A couple of times I have had
to top up the coolant slightly because the
warning light came on saying low water – it
was slightly damp under the coolant bottle,
hence why I tried a new cap – but the level
hasn’t gone down in more than a month.
Would it be worth trying a new coolant
bottle, say if the threads were worn where
the cap screws on and letting pressure out?
Looking under the car there are two
auxiliary water pumps – one in front of the
coolant radiator and the other behind the
engine, which seems to plumbed to the EGR
cooler. Would these have anything to do
with supplying/pumping water to the heater
matrix? Or do you have any other ideas?
Danny Clark
A
The heater unit in your Leon uses
servo motors to operate the air
flaps to direct air either through
or round the heater matrix. The left
and right sides of the heater unit have
different flaps and this could cause one
vent to blow warm and the other cold.
I suspect the problem lies within the
heater unit, not due to pressure loss in
the main cooling system. As you do not
mention any overheating problems with
the vehicle, I believe the water pumps
are operating correctly.
As you suspect, the EGR pump does
supply coolant to the EGR cooler
and the other unit is possibly a heat
exchanger, which would indicate you
have an auxiliary heater fitted, although,
according to the data I have, this was not
usually fitted to your vehicle. If there is
an auxiliary heater, I would not expect
you to have any heating issues, so it may
be the case that it’s not operating and
would need to be investigated further.
It could be the unit that you identify
as a pump at the front of the engine is
actually the four-way thermostat, which
is fitted behind the alternator.
Unfortunately, the heating control unit
in your SEAT has no fault memory and
there is no self-diagnosis function.
I would begin by checking the operation
of the flaps in the heater unit. By
removing the glovebox, you should be
able to gain access to the servo motors
and ensure they are operating freely.
SEAT IBIZA
Noisy aircon
Q
There is a whine from the airconditiong in my 14-plate SEAT
Ibiza Toca with the 1.4 petrol engine
and 27,000 miles on the clock. It usually
starts about 10 minutes after switching on
the aircon, although the system appears
to be working as it should. The whine gets
louder or quieter with the engine revs. As
soon as the aircon is switched off, the whine
disappears immediately.
When the car was serviced by SEAT a
few weeks ago, they tested the gas in the
aircon and all was well. They offered to
connect their diagnostics to the car at a
cost of up to £140, which I declined!
M Hargreaves
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A
I am assuming this problem
started before the gas was
checked. There is a service
bulletin which states that the airconditioning compressor may be noisy if
the gas is overfilled or if the oil level is too
high. The same bulletin advises that the
compressor fixings may become loose,
so the first check is to ensure the pump
and bracket bolts are tightened correctly.
If the pump is tight, it may be worth
considering having the aircon system
drained, then draining the oil from the
compressor. The system could then be
refilled, ensuring the correct levels.
There are reports that a batch of
Sanden compressors fitted to the
VAG range were particularly noisy in
operation, which may apply to your
SEAT. I am unsure if connecting to a
diagnostic scanner would give you any
useful information.
SEAT IBIZA
Handbrake
warning buzzer
Q
The problem with our 2008 SEAT
Ibiza 1.4 is that the handbrake
warning buzzer no longer buzzes
and the light warning audio signal no longer
works. The indicator audio is silent also. The
problem seems to affect all systems.
I backed into a concrete block prior to
these faults – the tow hook took the shock.
Hoping you can help?
R Donaldson
A
From the details I have on your
SEAT the warning buzzer which
covers these functions is built
into the dash panel. With the dash panel
removed you can see a circle of holes at
the rear where the audible sounder is
fitted. As this is not operating I would
suspect that the problem is within the
dash panel.
VAG note that the dash panel cannot
be dismantled which would mean that
to rectify the problem the panel would
need to be sent away and repaired.
There are a couple of companies that
can do this for you, as you wrote in I have
listed the company and contact details
rather than include a website address.
Either Autotronics of 223 Belgrave
Gate, Leicester LE1 3HT. Tel: 0116
276 7054. Or: Cartronix at Unit 20,
The Parkwood Centre, Aston Road,
Waterlooville PO7 7HT. Tel: 02392
265986 or 02392 241412
The first company offer a repair for
£141.60 on your vehicle whilst the
second company show the cost as £175.
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Help!
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
SKODA FABIA
Battery replacement
Q
I have a 2016 Skoda Fabia AMB MP55/1.0 M5F with an engine code of CHYB. The short version; do I need to adapt the
battery monitoring control unit -J367 if I replace the current battery with an equivalent specification battery? The long version:
I bought the Fabia when it was 2.5-years-old, so it still had a bit of warranty to run. The Start-Stop function hardly ever worked
– it would sometimes work after 30 minutes of out-of-town driving, but not always. The car is used for short journeys three days a week,
and a 30-minute A-road commute two days a week.
During the remaining warranty period, the main dealer looked at the reluctant Start-Stop function and reported that nothing was
wrong, they said that they had ‘recoded the battery’ and that this might help. This did not help. A further visit to the dealer, again in the
warranty period, had them insisting that the battery was not the problem, it was the way I drove it that was the issue. They made it clear
that the battery was not the issue and that no replacement under warranty would be considered.
The car is getting on for six-years-old now, the Start-Stop function is still reluctant to non-existent – the car also nags about ‘12V
battery almost empty’ after it’s been sat idle for a few days. My feeling is that battery is end of life and it’s time for a new one.
The current battery is Moll brand 59Ah EFB. I think it’s got a 640A CCA spec. I can find a similar battery for example Varta 027 EFB
(60Ah/640A CCA). Can I do a straight swap without needing to adapt the battery monitoring control unit -J367?
Chris Roberts
A
The short version yes. The longer version, when replacing or even
disconnecting the battery on any vehicle with a battery condition
sensor, it is important to disconnect the sensor multiplug from
the battery lead before proceeding.
Even a battery of the same capacity will need the power management
system to be recoded using diagnostic equipment.
The monitoring system checks the state of the battery and adjusts
the charging rate and senses the ability of the battery to perform the
Stop-Start function.
As the old battery ages the plates will calcify and the ability to accept
and retain a charge as well as the ability to start the vehicle will decrease.
During normal use this alteration will be noted by the battery condition
monitor and the charging rate and the perceived ability of the battery to perform the Stop-Start function will be adjusted.
When replacing the battery, if the system is not reset, even with a battery of the same capacity the monitoring system will
perceive the ability of the battery to start the engine as lower and may disable the Stop-Start system.
The other issue is that the smart-charging system will charge at the incorrect rate and may overcharge the new battery. This
will of course decrease the service life of the battery.
Whilst there are probably many motorists who do not register the battery and feel they are not having problems as a result of
simply renewing the battery, in the long-term they may find that the new battery will not last as long as it should and the StopStart system may also be available less frequently.
Another possible scenario is that the failure for the alternator to charge correctly will result in the vehicle running at too
higher voltage which may have a detrimental effect on the electronic components of the management systems.
To conclude whilst I would consider the 60Ah/640A CCA EFB battery to be the same type and capacity as the old 59Ah/640A CCA
EFB, I would still recommend that the power management system is programmed to ensure it is aware of the new battery.
also been suggested that I run the engine
while I bleed the brakes, as this will allow
the fluid to pass through the ABS unit and
the ABS pump will be running.
Ken Pugh
SKODA OCTAVIA
Brake fluid
change
Q
A
I have a 56-plate Skoda Octavia
2.0 FSI that is due for a brake fluid
change. I’d like your advice on the
best way to change the brake fluid.
How much brake fluid does the system
hold? What is the best way to bleed the
brakes? Do I bleed the system using
another person to operate the brake pedal
while I release each brake nipple in turn? Or
should I use a Gunson Eezibleed kit? It has
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The brake system holds a total
of 1.2 litres of brake fluid. As you
are flushing the fluid through,
you should expect to use around 1.5
litres during the operation.
You can use the Gunson Eezibleed or
do it as a two-person operation – either
method will work effectively. You do not
need to have the engine running, and
provided the master cylinder reservoir
does not run dry, you should have no
problem with the ABS system – the fluid
will run through the pump without any
further assistance.
The bleeding sequence for either
method is the same: right rear caliper, left
rear caliper, front right caliper and finally
front left caliper. If using an assistant to
pump the brake pedal, this should be
done in slow strokes and the pedal should
not be pushed fully to the floor. The bleed
screw should be opened when the pedal is
up and closed off when the pedal is down.
According to the Skoda manual, the
brake system will need a pressure of 2 bar
to bleed using air pressure. If using the
Eezibleed system using a spare tyre,
I would check this is inflated sufficiently to
ensure the required pressure is supplied.
Both methods will require a hose
to connect to the bleed screw and a
receptacle to catch the old brake fluid.
The spent fluid should be discarded using
your local council waste recycling centre.
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71
Help!
VOLKSWAGEN FOX
Relays getting
hot to touch
Q
Two of the relays in the dashboard of
my 2006 VW Urban Fox 1.2 (six-valve
engine) get hot to the touch after
a few miles of driving. They are numbered
167 (on the top right of the compartment)
and 18 (on the bottom left), although VW
tell me the latter is now numbered 644. The
other relay, 429, gets warm to touch but not
as much as the other two. The other relays
do not change temperature. Is it usual for
the relays 167 and 18 to get so hot? Should
I replace them or could something else be
causing them to heat up?
I can see from the diagram in the VW Fox
feature in the March 16 issue of CM that
the relays cover fuel pump and brake light
functions. I believe the larger black relay on
the top left handles the dashboard lighting.
The battery on the car has recently been
replaced with one that is lead calcium
of suitable capacity, and a local garage
scanned functions appropriate to all
dashboard functions and could find no
faults or stored codes.
Andrew Lattam
A
The relays use a small
electromagnet to control the
switching. One of the byproducts of the electromagnet is heat,
but this should though only make the
relay warm and not hot.
The most common reason for a relay
getting too hot is poor current flow.
VOLKSWAGEN GOLF
Timing belt procedure
Q
I have a 2015 Volkswagen Golf 1.4 GT ACT with engine code CZEA. It has 30K
miles and drives very well. I purchased this Golf nearly new and was told it had
a timing chain. I have recently been told by VW (and checked myself ) that it has
a timing belt and they recommend that this is changed at 50k and/or 5-year intervals.
I have replaced many cambelts over the years, sometimes with timing/locking tools,
sometimes without. I have a Haynes manual (6416-416) for this car, but as it covers
numerous engine sizes and types it is a little bit vague in the description of how to do
this task – photos changing from single-cam to twin-cam, for example.
It tells you how to lock the crankshaft in position, check the timing is correct, fit the
cam locking tool then loosen the camshaft pulley bolts which requires replacing with
new. Once the belt is removed the cam sprockets can then supposedly rotate freely?
VW have quoted me £500 + VAT. Is this a possible DIY task? Is there any other info on
completing a cambelt change?
Do you know the locking kit number and possibly
where to purchase? Ones I have seen are around
£250 if they are the correct one. Also does the water
pump belt need to be changed at the same time?
Nick Lett
A
You are, of course, correct that your Golf
does have a timing belt. The replacement
schedule shown for this by Autodata is
every five years regardless of mileage. The book
time for the job is given as three hours, and so
this is not a quick job.
There are over a dozen tools listed as being
The Sealey VS5145 timing kit needed
required to replace the belt and so the locking kit
for the belt change on the CZEA engine.
does contain a few parts. The Sealey kit VS5145
which covers your engine does retail for between £230-£260 and so this would be
around the price you have looked at.
If you do carry out the job yourself after weighing up the pros and cons, Gates
timing belt kits contain full fitting instructions and now have a QR code to link you
to a set of digital instructions.
The Gates timing belt kit retails at around £65, so even by purchasing the tools and
the parts you should be looking at a saving of nearly £200 by doing the job yourself.
The water pump belt which runs off the back of the camshaft does not need to
be renewed as part of the timing belt replacement job.
This could be because the solder joints
have dried out or a crimped connection
is causing resistance. It may also be due
to poor flow through the contact points.
If the resistance through the relay is
increased, the demand from the unit it
controls will also increase, leading to a
vicious circle that will eventually lead
to the failure of the relay. It would be
advisable to replace the relays before the
problem develops.
VOLKSWAGEN POLO
Electric door
windows
Q
I have a problem with my 2005
VW Polo 1.2 petrol (9N). Electric
windows are fitted on the two
front doors and neither will operate from
the internal door switches. However, when
I put the key into the lock on the driver’s
side and turn and hold it for 30 seconds,
both windows will open together. When
I turn the key in the other direction, both
windows will close again.
To try to resolve the issue, I have:
1. Checked the fuses and found all OK.
2. Purchased a driver’s side motor unit
which has the control card attached
from a scrapper, who assured me that he
had checked it and it was functioning. It
came off the exact same model and the
numbers matched. This one is behaving
exactly like the original.
3. Purchased a new driver’s side internal
switch unit.
4. Checked loom for damaged/broken wires
but all were OK.
5. Carried out continuity tests to confirm
the earth and continuity of wires. These
were all OK.
I would be obliged if you advise on what
I am missing. I enjoy fault-finding, but this
one has me beaten!
Derry O’Farrell
A
Having carried out the
replacement of the two
components that were the most
likely cause of the problem – the interior
window switch and the driver’s motor
and control unit – the most likely scenario
is that you have a broken or fractured
wire somewhere in the loom. Very often
internal fractures in the wiring loom can
be difficult to find and as your Polo uses
the CANbus wiring system, the tolerance
for continuity in the system is very tight.
If further continuity testing fails, it
should be possible to pin down the
problem by connecting up a dedicated
VAG system scanner. This should identify
the general location of the problem.
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Help!
VOLKSWAGEN PASSAT
Mystery part
Q
I am wanting to know what this car part
function is, and also what it is called. It is from
a 2004 Volkswagen Passat 1.9 TDI 130. Location
is passengers side, low down at the front, where the
bottom intercooler pipe comes out.
Reason for this request is that one of these
connections is broken and the others are heavily
corroded and need to possibly be replaced.
John Andrew Lilleker
The readers photo of the mystery
A
The part in the picture is the
part (above) and a more detailed
cooling fan resistor plate, the part
view of the actual part (below).
number should be 8D0959493A
but I would check this before purchasing.
The unit allows the varying speeds of the
engine cooling fan. If the connection fails
this will prevent the engine cooling fan
from operating and may possibly allow
the engine to overheat.
If the resistor is still operating and
if the terminals unscrew without
sheering off, then it should be possible
to re-solder new terminals onto the cables and then reconnect them.
VOLKSWAGEN BEETLE
Stiff steering
Q
I have a 2003 VW Beetle 1.6 petrol
which has done 116,000 miles.
Just lately my steering has become
quite stiff and does not seem to centralise
like it used to. Before I start taking it to
local garages – which are not cheap these
days – I was wondering if there was a
simple check I could do to diagnose the
problem? Depending what is wrong, I’ll
make the decision of whether to tackle the
job by myself or bite the bullet and take to
my local garage.
John Wright
A
There are a few possibilities as
to why the steering may have
become stiff, but as you mention
that it does not centralise then the
problem may be a seized U/J at the base of
the steering column. This is easily checked
and accessible from within the vehicle.
The U/J is clamped to the steering rack
with a single bolt. By undoing the bolt,
you should be able to lift the U/J away
from the steering rack. It may need a
light tap to loosen it, but once away from
the steering rack you will be able to see
if it will move easily in all directions. If
it has seized, you may be able to free
it off by soaking it in penetrating oil.
When removing the U/J ensure that the
steering wheel does not spin as this may
damage the airbag connection if it is not
replaced in the correct position.
If the U/J is free, the problem may be due
to either a failing steering rack or a failed
power steering pump. You do not mention
any noises occurring when turning
the steering, which would normally
be the case with a failing steering
pump. Another sign of a failing pump is
discolouration of the steering fluid.
Another possibility is a seized balljoint
within the steering/suspension system.
The easiest way to check for this is to jack
up the vehicle and disconnect the track
rod ends. The sweep of the front wheels
can then be felt by hand, which should
show up any problems.
VOLKSWAGEN PASSAT
Cooling system
Q
Would you possibly have access
to a diagram of a Passat (diesel)
cooling system? This would greatly
help in trying to track down a leak in my
son’s 2005 VW Passat 1.9 TDI.
Gary Mills
A
Probably one of the best places
to see a diagram of the cooling
system is on a parts website
such as this one https://bit.ly/CMU2VpC
– this gives a good exploded view of the
components in the cooling system and is as
clear as the one in the actual VW manual.
Have a
problem vehicle?
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Sourcing vehicle manuals
 Most CM readers will know that
Haynes publish the bibles for automotive
mechanics with their authoritative line of
owners workshop manuals. The Haynes
website at Haynes.com should always be
your first port of call when searching for a
manual. And if there isn’t a specific manual
available for your particular model, it’s
worth checking whether your engine was
fitted to any other vehicles, as this will
give you basic servicing and maintenance
advice. It’s also worth emailing Haynes
and asking if they have a manual in the
works for your vehicle. And bear in mind
that Haynes are now producing video
tutorials for various makes and models.
Failing that, you may be able to find
a workshop manual online that you can
download. Although there are a number
of sites offering this service, care must be
taken to find a reliable source. We have
found the website emanualonline.com
is a trusted source of digital manuals.
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Car Mechanics
January 2023
73
Diagnostics Doctor
Steve Rothwell answering your ENGINE MANAGEMENT queries
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
ROVER 45
Failure to start
Q
The other evening, I used our 2005 Rover 45 2.0 turbodiesel and on return stopped
it on our drive. Next morning it failed to start and has been the same since. I have
since done various checks. Engine turns over fine with no strange noises, but it will
not fire up at all. It had a service two months ago where all the oils and filters were changed.
Battery is nearly new, and the fuel tank is a quarter full. I have put my Gendan GCR05
analyser on it. It recorded no codes found. EGR ready. Fuel system ready. CCM ready.
I have checked for fuel leaks (none), all the fuses checked. Fuel cut-off switch OK.
Glow plugs checked and OK. The engine problem light on the dashboard does not light
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up except when the igniton is first switched on.
The only jobs done on the car is the Pektron ECU changed about 10 months ago and
the heater motor control about three months ago. Do you think there is any sensor that could give this
effect? And how could I check them?
The car has done 60,000 miles since purchased new and had all its belts changed at 45,000 miles.
The engine turns energetically but does not fire at all. The car up until now has run fine. Help please.
David Jones
The EGR valve which may be a
reason for the non-start problem.
A
Most non-start situations would normally give a fault code
that could be retrieved but as you have discovered this is not always the case. When this
occurs, a few basic steps should be taken to help locate the source of the trouble.
First, I would remove the timing belt covers to ensure that the camshaft drive belt and fuel pump drive
belt are in place – this is a basic step but worth covering. Next, I would slacken off an injector pipe to
ensure fuel is reaching the injector. This should NEVER be done on a common-rail engine but as your
Rover Is not a common-rail system but has a rotary pump, this is acceptable.
I would also carry out a check using a test light to ensure that the glow plugs are operating – a simple test
to ensure current is flowing to the glow plug terminal will be sufficient at this stage.
If at this point you have found nothing untoward, I would then attempt to start the engine with the MAF sensor unplugged.
This should set a code and will also set the ECU to its pre-set parameters.
If the engine still refuses to start, then deeper tests will be required. One of the main components that can prevent the engine
starting and may not leave a code is the EGR valve. If this is stuck but not registering, this could be the source of the problem.
If by this stage you have still not found the problem, then I would try a crankshaft sensor – again it is possible for these to
fail and go undetected when attempting to start.
Finally, the problem may be in the fuel pump itself as this contains the fuel pump timing module as well as the other control
elements, and if nothing else has been detected, then this may need checking.
FORD FOCUS
Engine malfunction
Q
My trusty 20-year-old Citroën C15 van failed it’s last MOT due
to terminal bulkhead corrosion around the master cylinder
and, needing a quick replacement, I found a Ford C-MAX
diesel, which was a lot cheaper than the equivalent Transit Connect.
Not really what I wanted as not a van and a little too wide for one
place I go to, but needs must, etc. The van use is private, not business.
Anyway, very nice vehicle to drive – it’s a 2010 vehicle (2003-10
model) with the later 1.8 Duratorq diesel engine – one with a lower
belt rather than a chain – 78k miles. No issues apart from at random
‘engine malfunction’ comes on the information display, on start up or
during the course of a journey (and sometimes goes away as well).
Code reader identifies the fault as 0504 brake light switch,
although the brake lights work OK with the fault. I got my trusted
local garage to confirm and they replaced the brake light switch,
checked fuses, wiring, etc., yet problem remained.
The brake pedal position switch.
They do have access to an independent
auto electrician, but he’s incredibly busy,
and they usually book him for a day at a time to sort
several vehicles to make it work and cost efficient for
all. So waiting for a date. I’m using the car sparingly,
as I have other vehicles but no van.
However, interrogating the web revealed a similar
issue with several Fords of the same era although
different codes were produced, and the common thread
was that the two ‘strip contacts’ at the back of the instrument cluster
wear over time, particularly as the solder doesn’t have any lead in it
and so stray electrical issues can result.
Apparently, removing the cluster and resoldering the strip properly
seems to solve the problems. Do you think this may be my problem too?
Kevin Williams
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January 2023
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Diagnostics Doctor
Diagnostics Doctor
PEUGEOT 207
Fault codes
Q
I have recently purchased a
2012 Peugeot 207 1.4 8v petrol
(TU series engine) which has
covered just under 60k. I purchased
this car as a non-runner – the timing
belt had snapped on the owner and a
garage fitted a new belt then told the
owner that there was internal damage.
I purchased the car knowing this
and when it was in my possession
I removed the spark plugs to do a compression test (all four cylinders were very low).
I removed the cylinder-head, found that seven valves were bent, some worse than
others, pistons barely had a mark on them. I then fitted a complete set of eight new
valves and lapped them in, then fitted new valve seals. Fitted a new head gasket (same
thickness as I removed), locked the crankshaft with a 6mm bolt at the hole through the
flywheel and used a drill bit on the cam pulley. Torqued down the head, set the tappets
and reassembled everything. Fitted timing belt, rotated engine several times and all
timing realigned.
Then turned the car over and it fired up instantly. I cleared all fault codes that were
present due to carrying out compression tests, etc.
Engine idles and runs perfect but I keep getting codes P0008 Engine Position System
Bank 1. I searched online and it appears that this code is present if the timing is out of
sync on a twin-cam engine but I only have one camshaft. Is this code also related to the
other code I keep getting P0053 H02S Heater Resistance Bank 1 Sensor 1? These could
have been present before I carried out the above work I’m unsure.
James Fraser
A
The code P0008 is referring to a mechanical problem with the engine
position system, affecting the engine performance. This may often be a
correlation between the camshaft and crankshaft sensor, but on the TU3
engine in your Peugeot a camshaft sensor is not used.
The ignition timing is controlled solely by the crankshaft sensor, and if this were the
case, the code thrown would normally be a crankshaft/camshaft correlation code.
The code should have no relation to the P0053 code, as this is as you have mentioned
a Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S), Bank 1, Sensor 1 - heater resistance problem, and
is likely due to either the heater circuit of the 02 sensor or the sensor itself.
The only point that may connect the two codes would be the engine loom, and
as the crankshaft sensor is at the back of the engine and the loom from the 02
sensor runs in the same direction, this is worth checking out.
If this is not the cause, given that the engine does run smoothly and that the
system does not use a camshaft sensor, it is difficult to pin-point the source of
the code, but one possible answer is that the crankshaft sensor is giving out an
uneven waveform. This may be due to the pickup or the sensor itself.
A
The code P0504 indicates brake
pedal position (BPP) switch A/B –
correlation, which is normally an
electrical problem, the source of which
can vary. One reason for this can be that
the ECM has detected that the brake
pedal and the throttle pedal are being
used at the same time, or that the ECM
perceives that they are being used at the
same time.
As the brake light switch has been
replaced, then this can hopefully
be discounted as the source of the
problem, which does leave an electronic
connection as the source of the fault.
The circuit for the brake pedal position
switch (green/white wire) goes through
the fusebox relay plate, then onto to
terminal G4 on the engine control
module (ECM). I would as a first step
remove and check the connections on
both the fusebox and the ECM, ensuring
that light corrosion is not present.
Once this has been checked, then it
would be worth carrying out the repair/
resolder to the dash panel to eliminate
this as a source of the problem. The dash
panel on these vehicles can suffer from
quite a few different problems due to
the failure of the solder.
Diagnostics Doctor is a FREE helpline
service for CM readers – including
trade readers – who are struggling
with diagnostic/engine management
related faults. Steve Rothwell will
answer all your queries. He will need
as much detail as possible: MAKE,
MODEL, YEAR, ENGINE CODE and
NUMBER PLATE of your vehicle –
and the type of management system
installed. Obviously, Steve will not be
able to assess the vehicle up close, so
his answer will be on the basis solely of
your description. This is a FREE service
and it may take some time to respond
to certain problems. If you would like
to receive a personal response via post,
please enclose an SAE.
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DIAGNOSTICS DOCTOR
CAR MECHANICS, KELSEY MEDIA
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YALDING HILL, YALDING,
KENT ME18 6AL
Common abbreviations
ATS
Air Temperature Sensor
AFM Air-Flow Meter – not a MAF type
(see below). It could be, for example,
a vane type
CAS Crank Angle Sensor
CPS
Crank Position Sensor
CTS
Coolant Temperature Sensor
ECT
Engine Coolant Temperature
ECU Electronic Control Unit
EGR Exhaust Gas Recirculation – meters
exhaust gas back to the intake manifold
EML Engine Management Light
EMS Engine Management System
EPC
Electronic Power Control
FCR
Fault Code Reader
HT
High Tension – ignition output to the
spark plugs
IAV
Idle Air Valve
ISCV Idle Speed Control Valve –
usually operated by a motor controlled
by the ECU
LOS
Limited Operating Strategy – if the
ECU detects a malfunction, it runs a
programme to allow the car to still go,
but at reduced efficiency
MAF Mass Air-Flow meter
MAP Manifold Air Pressure
MIL
Malfunction Indicator Lamp
PCV Positive Crankcase Ventilation – takes
crankcase gases and recycles back to
the inlet system
TBPS Turbo Boost Pressure Sensor – used by
the ECU to regulate turbo output
TPS
Throttle Position Sensor
VSS
Vehicle Speed Sensor
WOT Wide Open Throttle
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Car Mechanics
January 2023
75
John Ward brings us his annual round-up of
weird and wonderful ads from the 1950s.
u If the adverts are anything to judge
by, there was a winter grade petrol
available – as the Esso Oil Company
full page adverts claim their Esso Extra
Winter Grade petrol gave instant starting
and was also anti-icing. Although I must
confess in all my years of motoring
I have never actually had petrol icing
up but having said that I expect to hear
from those who did experience it.
u Unlike today’s modern vehicle construction, in those days, assorted adverts for
underbody protection were widespread – the choice in what can be termed as
‘underseal’ were many, by various outlets and manufacturers.
One such product was Rubbaseal as manufactured by the Dunlop Rubber
Co. Ltd., which ran many full-page adverts for this product – although you had
to get in touch with your garage for a quotation as it had to be applied by being
sprayed professionally as opposed to getting your best brush out and slapping
it on as you went. The virtues of this product or process were numerous that
covered (pun intended) everything from stopping corrosion to bodywork and
drumming – as it acted as a form of sound deadening.
76 Car Mechanics
January 2023
u Being winter, perhaps those without
a garage for their vehicle may have
considered a car cover and one such
supplier was Northern Car Covers of East
Street, Manchester, who offered quite a
wide range of these types of products.
With all seams electronically welded,
hemmed and reinforced for eyelets
for securing purposes. They were
completely waterproof and resistant
to oil and petrol but were annoyingly
available in just one colour – gunmetal.
Available in either flat sheets or
shapes to fit all models.
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u With the emphasis on presents or gifts for the motorist,
A B Fletcher of Dartmouth Street, Birmingham, offered a
delightful range of possible choices in their adverts.
Their seasonal offerings included twin-tone horns,
shock absorbers, car jacks, seat squabs and foot pumps.
One eye-catcher being a bomb winch which would
suggest it being an ex-RAF surplus item as it was
‘Absolutely unused, fitted with eighteen foot of cable and
perfect for engine lifting’ – priced at a respectable £3 with
a modest 5/- (25p today) post and packing.
u Assuming you had a garage then a paraffin heater for
it might be handy to have over the winter period. One
such choice was The Raydyot Oil Heater range as sold
and marketed by James Neal and Sons Ltd., of Graham
Street, Birmingham, with two models to choose from –
one having a rather interesting specification in its running
cost and duty-cycle
service. This was the
‘Eight Day’ model
and as the name
implied, it could
run for up to eight
days on one filling
of paraffin (one
and half pints) so it
would seem both
economical and
affordable to run.
It was priced
at 18/11 (92p
today) from most
ironmongers and
similar outlets,
finished in blue
and gold enamel.
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u We take for granted in this age the anti-dip rear view
mirror but in the 1950’s it was not then a standard fitting
in vehicles. You could buy one that did the job and one
such model was the Wingard Anti-Dazzle Mirror as sold by
Wingard Ltd of Chichester in Sussex.
It was available in assorted sizes that ranged in price from
14/8 (73p today) up to possibly the top-of-the-range at 28/9
(£1.43 today) with seemingly all of them on telescopic arms
to adjust to your vehicle model with the dipping action
controlled by a single action of the snap trigger (which is
quoted as being a patented and registered design) which
in effect must have been like today’s models.
u For those who wanted
a prezzie in the tool line,
possibly the Melco Spin
Wrench manufactured by
Thomas Melco Ltd of Sheffield
might have been very
tempting that was priced at
a modest 10/11 (60p today).
It was a wheel nut changing
spanner but cleverly designed
to give extra leverage over
the standard supplied
carmakers own wheel nut
spanner or wheel brace.
A neighbour had one in
his car boot for years but
when he sold his cars on,
as and when, the two things he always kept back were
his trusty foot pump and his Melco wrench which lasted
nearly thirty years – though it was an old imperial size.
I wonder if a metric model was available in later years.
So that about wraps it up! Hopefully your
presents will equal these offerings as I wish
you a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.
Car Mechanics
January 2023
77
BOOK REVIEWS
REVIEWED BY RICHARD GUNN
Yesterday’s Future:
Concept Cars of the 1960s
by Richard Heseltine
 It’s fascinating to look back on Car Mechanics issues of past
eras, to the days when you didn’t need a computer to do
something simple like deactivate a handbrake – and WD40,
duct tape, a flat-blade screwdriver and a hammer really could
solve most mechanical problems.
Simpler times they may have been, but many car firms
and designers still dreamed of a radical future, where we’d
all be driving around in machines which looked like they’d
just emerged from a Dan Dare comic strip. And nowhere was
such flamboyance and optimism more apparent than in the
concept cars that appeared at motor shows and other events,
when flights of fancy could really be given their wings because
it was unlikely that such vehicles would ever make the leap
into real production.
The 1960s was arguably the golden era for concept cars
(along with car design in general); post-1950s’ austerity, pre1970s’ safety, fuel and financial concerns. This book, by prolific
motoring writer Richard Heseltine, looks at some of the weird
and wonderful creations of the decade, year by year and from
all around the world. It’s a large format ‘coffee table’-style book
running to 240 pages, but unlike many such works, which major
on the images and almost regard any words as secondary,
the write-ups from Heseltine are knowledgeable, informative
and entertaining. The approach is both light-hearted and
authoritative, but with many of the vehicles being ones that
not many people will be that familiar with, almost every entry
brings new knowledge. This isn’t just trotting out the same old
histories that have been repeated so many times before but
genuinely bringing something new to the (coffee) table.
However, it is the images that take centre stage, and
rightly so. Nearly 200 concept cars are featured, illustrated by
around 350 photos overall. And because these vehicles were
intended to generate publicity, most of the shots are high
quality ones, officially taken for manufacturers for marketing
purposes. They’re well-reproduced with fine clarity, and a lot
of thought and effort has been put into the overall design;
this is a stylish piece of work.
There are some real gems to be found, such as the wild
1960 DiDia 150 with its glass canopy and towering rear fins
almost as tall as the rest of the car, or the Curtiss-Wright rotaryengined hovercar from the same year, which is described,
rather accurately, as having ‘the stylistic elan of a biscuit tin’.
Then there’s the 1961 Ford Gyron – with two wheels and a
gyroscope to keep it stable – or the 1963 Chrysler Turbine
Car which, as its name suggests, had a gas turbine engine.
Who could fail to be intrigued and amused by 1965 FART
Break – a Fiat 500-based Spartan off-roader – or marvel at
the 1966 Chevrolet Corvette-inspired Vauxhall XVR, with its
sleek, futuristic body masking Vauxhall Victor undergarments?
There’s also the ‘Why didn’t they build them?’ disappointments
of the streamlined 1967 Pininfarina BMC 1100/1800 Berlina
Aerodinamica models, with their Citroën-esque lines, or the
Maxi-powered Austin Zanda of 1969. The experiments in
electric city car runarounds are also quite fascinating – and
often not that far removed from early 21st century efforts.
Packed with charming and curious visions of an automotive
future that, for the most part, never materialised, we reckon
you’ll keep coming back to this – even if it’s only to see if you
could believe your eyes the first time around. This is a lavish
and enthralling volume for when you want to take a break
from fixing the cars of the future we actually got, and escape
to a world of what we might have been driving instead.
Yesterday’s Future: Concept Cars of the 1960s is published by Porter Press International at £45.
ISBN: 978-1-913089-34-4. See porterpress.co.uk for more details.
78 Car Mechanics
January 2023
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NEXT MONTH
NEW
PROJECT
CAR
A course in
COOLING
You might think
that cooling
systems have
not changed,
but as we find
out there’s
plenty that can
catch out the
unaware DIYer.
FORD MONDEO
● BUYING & OWNING A VOLVO XC60
● ELECTRONIC DIAGNOSTICS:
CITROËN C4 HDi
● PROJECT PANDA BODYWORK STARTS
● MORE WAYS TO GO ELECTRIC
● PAST MOTORING INNOVATIONS
FEBRUARY 2023
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JANUARY 20
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KIA SPORTAGE
CRDi SERVICE
In my
Humble Opinion
Choosing a new car isn’t easy but sometimes it’s fascinating!
Car shopping – the march of
technology is unstoppable
 I have just undertaken and dare I say it, successfully
completed, one of the most harrowing tasks anyone in the
motoring world ever has to endure – car shopping for the
other half. Perhaps I am exaggerating matters a little, but I liken
it to getting a wooden splinter in your finger – not so much a
painful experience but more of a bloody tedious annoyance.
You see, what’s right for me isn’t always what’s right for her
often for some incredible reasons. For example… despite my
habit of happily running around in old bangers we do actually
have a decent motor on the drive that reflects our suburban
and slightly middle-class neighbourhood. In the past we have
had two Land Rovers (a Freelander Td4 and Discovery Td5 – the
latter I still bitterly miss) and various Volkswagen Golf or Passats.
The last change almost three years ago was my first big win in
terms of ideal cars – an Octavia TDI 150 with the brilliant 7-speed
DSG gearbox. I had often wittered on about going to Skoda if you
want bangs for bucks. She gave in and we took one on. No pun
intended but it’s been utterly superb – not even a bulb has been
replaced, only a cracked windscreen has seen any work done on
the car outside of routine servicing. Despite her initial bickering
about it having the ‘wrong’ badge in the middle of the steering
wheel and it having a traditional manual handbrake rather than
an electronic one, now that it’s soon to be going, she’s making
those remarks about how it’s going to be missed. On the
subject of electric handbrakes, the first time she encountered
one she moaned for bloody months about not liking them.
When we first met, she also expressed a total loathing
for automatic gearboxes, but now if she has to drive my
three pedal SAAB, she’ll make moaning sounds akin to a
blocked hoover pipe. All the motoring things I predicted
to her years ago like hybrid cars, auto gearboxes et al have
all come true and I often joke to her about how we all take
these technological milestones for granted when it comes to
modern cars. I know I can sometimes sound like a dinosaur,
but I generally love most of the modern kit you find on the
latest cars. I too could smoke around in the latest Hokey Cokey
3000GT Hybrid, but I choose not to as I love coaxing a worn
out but trusty cheapie from one MOT to another.
Sometimes I loathe upcoming major jobs – in fact, in a
few days’ time from typing this, I’ll be undertaking a major
service on the SAAB 9-3 as well as renewing all the brakes.
Thankfully though it’s being done in a mate’s lock-up garage
near Wellingborough – and when the gig is complete there’s
a Mickey D’s literally a few gearchanges away, and I’m really
looking forward to it – how’s that for good planning kids?
But getting back to the gist of my mutter, some of the things
the missus ‘must have’ in a car really makes me smile or want to
scream out loud. Example: on a recent test drive she asked the
sales exec if the current new Mk8 Golf still had the ‘little cubby
box where I keep my breakfast bars’ – I nearly crawled into the
glovebox in shame. That said though my own prerequisite
on cars includes items such as an illuminated ashtray – even
though mine is full of sweets and business cards (not ash), a
decent sized footrest next to the clutch pedal and a washer
bottle that holds more water than Lake Coniston.
82 Car Mechanics
January 2023
More computing
power under the
hood than Apollo 11
– but that was 1994.
“I think it was BMW who claimed their 1994 E32 shape
7-series had twice the computing power on board than
what was required to put the first man on the moon.”
While perusing a manufacturers build-your-own car page,
I fell into yet another nostalgic daydream, where I thought
back to all the milestones we all arrive at in terms of technical
or interior spec. My first ever car featured little more than an
analogue clock, a fag lighter and reclining front seats – the
latter was a deal breaker for a good looking seventeen-yearold lad. Then came the first car with a rev-counter, followed by
the first car with a five-speed gearbox, then central locking,
then power steering… oh the excitement of it all. Some decades
ago, I traded in a broken Maestro for a near top-of-the-range
Sierra at a main Ford dealer – the Sierra just four-years-old. It
featured all the aforementioned PLUS height/reach adjustable
steering wheel, factory fit alarm, lumbar support on the
front seats and the pièce de résistance of man about town
automotive luxury – headlight wash-wipe.
I was woken from my daydream by the banging of a cup of
tea being placed on the table. I found myself alarmed by the
sheer level of technology you can get in something as small as
a five-door hatchback. Even more staggering is that as I dug
even further into the optional specification, it seemed the only
things a new Golf Hybrid wasn’t capable of, included brewing
tea, curing the common cold and translating Sanskrit.
I think it was BMW who claimed their 1994 E32 shape
7-series had twice the computing power on-board than what
was required to put the first man on the moon. I wonder if
today Ford could claim the same for the current Focus!
Once again, it only seems like an eye blink ago my pal
Richard traded in an MGB GT for a sweet little Mk2 8v Golf GTI
– the most basic car I had ever known boasting only a manual
tilt/slide sunroof as anything remotely luxurious.
Whatever your thoughts may be on technology, accept
it because it’s not going away. In fact, matters will only get
better, or worse depending on your bent/opinion.
For me though, for as long as I can, I’ll continue with
my manual gearbox/internal combustion engine – not all
dinosaurs are extinct – yet!
shop.kelsey.co.uk/subscription/CME
INDEX
(January-December 2022)
A
H
N
AUDI
RS3, Service Bay, June 22, p62-67
TT, 2006-2014, Buying + Owning, Mar 22, p50-53
High-milers, Apr 22, p56
HONDA
Jazz, 2008-2015, Buying + Owning, Apr 22, p50-53
NISSAN
Qashqai J10 + NJ10 Boot Handle Repair, Apr 22, p42-43
X-Trail, 2014-2021, Buying + Owning, Nov 22, p84-87
B
I
BENTLEY
Buying & running, July 22, p88-94
BMW
4-cylinder thermostat swap, Feb 22, p56-58
5-series front coil spring, June 22, p50-52
Bumper Trouble, Jan 22, p54-57
INSTANT EXPERT SERIES:
50 Cost Cutters, June 22, p6-14
Additives, Dec 22, p6-16
Air Suspension, Aug 22, p6-17
Brakes, Sept 22, p6-21
Diagnostics for Beginners, Oct 22, p6-19
DSG 7-speed Clutch Replacement, Feb 22, p6-18
Get your Car Back on the Road, Apr 22, p6-16
Hands-on Towing, Mar 22, p6-17
Oil Analysis, May 22, p6-17
Rubber Bushes, Jan 22, p6-17
Salvage Hunters, July 22, p6-17
C
CHRYSLER
300C, 2005-2010, Buying + Owning, July 22, p84-87
CITROËN
C6 2.7 V6 HDi, Electronic Diagnostics, Dec 22, p76-79
DS3 1.6 HDi Project
Pt3: Priming, rubbing down, paint, Jan 22, p30-34
Pt4: Cambelt and water pump, Feb 22, p36-40
Pt5: Clutch swap, Mar 22, p34-38
Pt6: Sump clean, engine service, alloys refurb, Apr 22, p30-34
CLUTCH CLINIC:
Toyota Corolla Verso, Clutch Clinic, Jan 22, p44-48
D
Dream Workshop Supplement, Nov 22, p43-76
Driving Towards 2030
Ford Fiesta, Nov 22, p40-41
Hyundai Bayon on test, Apr 22, p48-49
Mazda MX-30, Jan 22, p84-85
Over-the-Air Updates, June 22, p42-43
Synthetic Fuel, May 22, p84-85
KIA
Sportage 2.0 CRDi Project
Pt1: Introduction, Aug 22, p28-33
Pt2: Wheel refurb, n/s rear door repair, Sept 22, p30-35
Pt3: Prepping, painting & buffing, Oct 22, p30-34
Pt4: Brakes & diagnostics, Nov 22, p34-39
Pt5: Replacing driver’s door, Dec 22, p34-38
E
F
G
Getrag Gearbox Repair, Pt1, Nov 22, p6-11
Getrag Gearbox Repair, Pt2, Dec 22, p48-51
R
READERS’ MOTORS
Jaguar XF, Feb 22, p86-87
Jaguar X-TYPE, Nov 22, p108-110
RENAULT
Megane Sport (RS), Service Bay, May 22, p92-96
ROLLS-ROYCE
Buying & running, July 22, p88-94
ROVER
45 2.0 TD, Service Bay, Apr 22, p62-67
RUSTPROOFING – Guide to, Mar 22, p40-46
S
K
Electronic Diagnostics Series:
Citroën C6 2.7 V6, Electronic Diagnostics, Dec 22, p76-79
Ford Focus 1.0 EcoBoost, Electronic Diagnostics,
Nov 22, p102-105
EV & Hybrid Special Supplement, July 22, p44-79
Fasteners – Guide to, Jan 22, p58-61
FIAT
500 1.2, Service Bay, Jan 22, p66-70
Panda 100HP Project
Pt1: Introduction, Nov 22, p28-32
Pt2: Brakes, springs & dampers, Dec 22, p28-32
Punto 1.4, Timing Belt Clinic, Feb 22, p46-49
FORD
Focus 1.0 EcoBoost, Electronic Diagnostics,
Nov 22, p102-105
Mondeo, 2014-2022, Buying + Owning,
Sept 22, p52-55
J
JAGUAR
AJ V8, Timing Belt Clinic, June 22, p44-49
XF 3.0D Project
Pt6: Alloys, rear discs/pads, rustproofing, Jan 22, p36-43
F-PACE, 2016-on, Buying + Owning, Aug 22, p48-51
XF 2.2D, Timing Belt Clinic, Oct 22, p48-54
JEEP
Renegade, 2015-2018, Buying + Owning, Jan 22, p50-53
P
PEUGEOT
RCZ, 2010-2015, Buying + Owning, June 22, p54-57
PORSCHE
Cayman 987, Service Bay, Oct 22, p56-62
PRODUCT TESTS
Glass Cleaners, Mar 22, p54-60
Battery Chargers, May 22, p18-21
Oil Drainage Equipment, July 22, p38-42
Inspection Cameras, Sept 22, p42-46
Screwdriver Sets, Dec 22, p52-55
SAAB
9-5, 2010-2012, Buying + Owning, May 22, p88-91
SKODA
Yeti 2.0 TDI 4x4, Service Bay, Aug 22, p58-63
SPOTLIGHT reviews
Revive Turbo Cleaner, Starter Kit, Feb 22, p84-85
Shock/Contact Alarm, Sept 22, p65
Squashlight, May 22, p86
SUZUKI
Jimny 1.3, Service Bay, Mar 22, p62-67
L
LAND ROVER
Defender TD5, Service Bay, Sept 22, p58-64
LEXUS
CT 200h, Buying + Owning, Feb 22, p50-53
M
MERCEDES-BENZ
AMG C63 V8, Service Bay, Feb 22, p60-64
SLK 350 Project
Pt1: Introduction, May 22, p30-35
Pt2: Brakes & belts, June 22, p28-32
Pt3: 7G-Tronic autobox service, July 22, p26-30
Pt4: Bodywork – cutting & fabrication, Aug 22, p34-38
Pt5: Paint and reassembly, Sept 22, p36-40
Pt6: New rear subframe, Oct 22, p36-41
Made in 1962, Aug 22, p42-46
MG
MG6, Service Bay, Dec 22, p58-63
MINI
Clubman, 2015-on, Buying + Owning, Dec 22, p42-44
R50/R52/R53 strut top mounts, Apr 22, p44-46
T
Tailgate strut mount repair, May 22, p80-82
Top 10 ULEZ compliant cars, Feb 22, p42-45
Top 50 used cars for under £10k, May 22, p43-74
TOYOTA
Corolla Verso 1.8, Clutch Clinic, Jan 22, p44-48
V
VAUXHALL
Astra J 1.6 Project
Pt1: Introduction, Feb 22, p30-35
Pt2: Servicing, Mar 22, p28-32
Pt3: Brakes & oil cooler, Apr 22, p28-33
Pt4: Thermostat & timing belt, May 22, p36-40
Pt5: Timing belt, dragging brakes, June 22, p34-38
Pt6: Paintwork & aircon pump, July 22, p32-37
Mokka, 2012-2019, Buying + Owning, Oct 22, p42-45
Zafira, central locking fix, Aug 22, p54-57
VAG 6.0 W12 engine profile, Apr 22, 58-59
VOLKSWAGEN
Polo 1.2 TSI, Service Bay, Nov 22, p12-18
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Car Mechanics
January 2023
83
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