IT311
MANUFACTURING
TECHNOLOGY
Introduction
Manufacturing is the creation, through one or several processing operations, of
components or products from basic raw materials. The effectiveness of process selection
will be based on the inter-related criterion of design parameters, material selection and
process economies. This course provides introduction to students to the theory and
operation of manufacturing including manufacturing processes and equipment overview,
manufacturing design, production process and flow, materials, machine operations and
logistics.
Course Description: The course will comprise introduction to theory and operation of
manufacturing including manufacturing processes and equipment overview,
manufacturing design, production process and flow, materials, machine operations and
logistics.
Goals and Objectives
1. Introduce the student to processes and equipment utilized in the manufacturing
environment.
2. Compare and contrast different material types and their application.
3. Introduce the concepts of production monitoring and control processes.
4. Explain different forms of production logistics in a manufacturing process.
Learning Outcomes
1. Ability to examine data, ideas, issues and arguments; understand and evaluate
assumptions and evidence; and reach logically valid conclusions.
2. Develop knowledge about technological processes and distinct understanding of
the concepts and outlines of manufacturing technology to be able to assess the
potential for mechanization in manufacturing companies.
3. Ability to confidently communicate and coherently for a specific purpose, while
using and acknowledging sources effectively.
Modular Lesson III – Introduction to Apparel Industry
Objectives:
1. To comprehend the general implications about the Introduction to Apparel Industry.
2. To develop familiarity of series of activities and operations depicted to Apparel
Industry.
3. To apply the acquired knowledge in the future purpose by using appropriate
sources.
Lesson Content:
4.1 Pattern Making
4.2 Types of Patterns
4.1 PATTERN MAKING
What is Pattern Making?
Pattern making involves the design and creation of templates from which clothing
and craft items can be sewn. Patterns are made of pieces of paper shapes that are traced
onto the fabric to be cut, with each individual pattern piece serving as a form for an
individual part of the garment or item to be sewn. Pattern making can be done at home
by more experienced sewers, or pre-made patterns can be purchased for home sewing
projects.
What is pattern Making called?
Introduction. Pattern making is the art of designing patterns by making templates from
which clothing and craft items can be sewn. A pattern making process actually help to
come out the imagination of designer from the sketching till real product. Pattern makers
are also called 'Technical Designers'.
What is pattern and its function?
(i.)
A pattern is essential for the production of any metal or alloy casting. (ii) A
pattern is used to produce the cavity in the moulding sand for pouring the
molten-metal. (iii) A properly manufactured pattern reduces the overall
cost of casting.
Terminologies in terms of pattern making?
APEX- The point of a Dart. Also called Vanishing point in draping.
BLOCKING- Pulling or stretching the muslin to produce a perfectly perpendicular cross
grain to the length grain.
BODICE- The portion of the garment generally from the shoulder to the waist.
BUSTLINE- The line around the fullest part of the bust.
CROSS MARKS- Markings along seam lines and pattern intersection used for making
garment parts.
DRAPING- A three-dimensional method of developing a pattern by applying and fitting
muslin on a dress form.
DRAFTING- A two-dimensional method of developing a drawing of the garment on
pattern paper; based on measurements.
4.2 TYPES OF PATTERNS:
As we discussed, casting objects are highly depend on pattern. According to the
shape and size of casting and method of making cavity, pattern can be classified as
follow.

Single Piece Pattern:
It is simplest type of pattern which is made in single piece. It is used for simple objects.
It is either placed into cope or in drag according to the simplicity of operation. It is used
to cast stuffing box of steam engines.

Split Pattern or Multi Piece Pattern:
These patterns are made into two or more pieces. The first half of pattern placed into
cope and other half into drag. It is used for complex objects where removal of single
piece pattern from mould is impossible. When pattern is made in more than three parts
cheeks are also used for easy removal.

Cope and Drag Pattern:
These are two-piece split pattern as discussed above. It is used for large objects

Match Plate Pattern:
Match plate pattern is a split pattern in which cope and drag section mounted on
opposite sides of a plate. The plate is known as match plate. These will make easy to
cast any shape with high production rate. Mostly runner, gates etc. are also mounted
on same plate which will easy to mould making work. These patterns are used for mass
production.

Loose Piece Pattern:
When removal of pattern is impossible due to an extended surface at either upper half
or lower half, the extended part made as loose piece so this extended part can be
removed first before removal of whole pattern. This will make easy removal of pattern
without effect on the cavity. These patterns are known as loose piece pattern.

Gated Pattern:
These are simply more than one loses piece which are attached with a common gating
system. These are used for mass production. It is used to produce small size cavities
into one mould.

Sweep Pattern:
These patterns are used for large rotational symmetrical casting. A sweep is a section
of large symmetrical object which is rotated along an edge into sand which make a
large symmetrical mould. These patterns make easy pattern making work of large
objects.

Skeleton Pattern:
These patterns used for large simple castings. In these patterns, skeleton like structure
made by using simple pattern sections. These will save both time and material.

Follow Board Pattern:
Follow board is a wooden board which is used to support pattern during moulding. It
acts as sit for pattern.
4.3 STEPS IN PATTERN MAKING
1. Gather Your Tools
There are a select few tools you will find in any pattern makers arsenal. As time goes by,
pattern makers incorporate different tools into the drafting process; however, their staples
remain the same.
If you’re new to pattern making or getting back into the art after a pause, here are a few
tools you would need handy before getting started with the process:
▪Pencils and Erasers: The first two things you will need when drafting a pattern is a pencil
and an eraser. When drafting a pattern for the first time, you might find yourself referring
back to your original designs and making changes to incorporate various styles or making
a few tweaks here and there with sizing. That’s why even experienced pattern makers
would avoid using non-erasable materials such as pens or markers when designing a new
style.
▪Patterning Paper: Patterning paper is graded paper, and it isn’t like any ordinary sketching
paper or other illustration mediums. The paper is marked and graded to indicate lengths,
inches, and sizes for easier drawing and better visualization of the draft. You could use
ordinary paper and grade it on your own, but patterning paper is more time-saving and
efficient.
▪Two Straight, Clear, and Gridded Rulers: Straight, clear, and gridded rulers come in
handy when measuring lengths, widths, and heights on your design. You would need two
of them: one that is 6-8 inches long and another that is 12-15 inches long. The shorter
scale is more appropriate for making precise measurements, and the longer scale comes
in handy when making or measuring larger dimensions.
▪Flexible Rulers: Flexible rulers are more versatile than straight rulers because they can
be bent in different shapes and at varied angles to measure contours. An ideal flexible
ruler should be 64 inches long or longer. This ruler is necessary for measuring curves and
other non-straight parts of your pattern.
▪Hip and Arm Styling Curve: A hip and arm styling curve is a curved, rigid ruler designed
to trace out and measure angles and curves once the pattern has been sketched out with
straight lines for more definition. The styling curve helps measure out areas in your pattern
where you want more fullness, and it is essential if you want your finished garment to fit
properly.
▪Awls: Awls are necessary tools in any pattern makers toolkit. They’re essential for
pivoting, scoring, and marking a design, which are all important aspects of shaping the
design to the customer’s body.
2. Take Careful Body Measurements
Patterns are either custom-designed for individual clients or designed as general sizes for
a larger consumer base. Flat pattern making requires pattern makers and designers to
take accurate measurements of their model at multiple locations to get the perfect fit. They
must also be mindful of how loose or tight a garment is supposed to be once it is finished.
The following body measurements are required in flat pattern making:
▪Height: The customer should stand with their feet slightly apart and stable against a wall
for measuring their height. You could alternatively have them stand beside a graded scale
for more accurate measurements.
▪Bust: Ask the customer to relax their arms and measure around the fullest part of the
bust. It is important to understand that these initial measurements should be made as
accurate as possible, whereas the final design has an inch or half an inch added to make
the garment fit better.
Waist: Measure between the customer’s ribcage and belly button, usually at the position
of their elbows. This measurement is made loosely around the customer’s natural waist
without tugging too much at their figure.
▪Arm: Ask the customer to bend their hands at a 90-degree angle and place them on their
hips. Measure from the center of the back of the neck down to the elbows and then down
to the wrists with a flexible tape measure.
▪Rise: Measure the length between the center back of the customer’s natural hips to their
groin.
▪In-seam: Measuring from the inside of the leg, measure the length from the customer’s
groin to their ankles.
Some pattern makers divide measurements into vertical and horizontal measurements.
Such measurements (arcs) are much more complicated as they only measure a quarter
of the circumference as opposed to all of it. The logic behind measuring in increments is
to get the perfect fit. However, the process is time-consuming and challenging to grasp for
beginners.
3. Adding Styles and Designs
The original pattern draft is made according to the customer’s body measurements and
styles. Incorporating various styles into your design is what separates it from a generic
design and turns it into a fashion statement. This may include adding flared sleeves,
changing necklines, and so forth. Follow these 5 steps to find your style and you’ll have
plenty of ideas to create you piece.
Pattern makers incorporate these styles and designs on top of their original sketch.
However, when doing so, you must keep fit into consideration, as well as how flattering
the finished design will look.
In this step, pattern-making software can be extremely useful, allowing you to draft
personalized patterns to fit specific measurements.
4. Grading Your Design
Grading is the process of readjusting basic paper patterns to fit different sizes using the
same original pattern template. In consumer markets where sizes have to be added or
adjusted quickly, paper grading is used as a time-efficient method of creating multiple
sizes by maximizing or minimizing one drafted template.
Patterning paper is often graded. You could just as easily trace the original design onto
another piece of patterning paper to adjust the original design dimensions for other sizes.
5. Moving on To Draping
After you’re done drafting your pattern onto a piece of paper, you’ll need to change the
two-dimensional image into a three-dimensional one to make final changes and to
visualize how it will appear on a body compared to a flat surface. This is where draping
comes in.
Once the pattern has been made, it can be traced out onto a piece of fabric and attached
temporarily in place with needles. Draping refers to styling a customer (or more accurately
covering them) with the cut-out fabric based on your drafted design.
At this point, you can visualize your design in three-dimension and make adjustments that
suit your customer’s body contours and curvatures accordingly.
What are the uses of pattern?
In the industry, patterns are used to cut the fabric pieces and the garment is made.
Patterns are made so that the same style can be duplicated when needed and multiple
pieces can be made. You don't have to start from scratch each.