Catatan kelas ini hanya boleh digunakan oleh mahasiswa
kelas KL 2201 Mekanika Gelombang Air 2021
Pengajar: Entin A. Karjadi
Tidak untuk disebarluaskan
Program Studi Teknik Kelautan
Institut Teknologi Bandung
2021
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KL 2201 Mekanika Gelombang Air
Pengajar: Entin A. Karjadi, Ph.D. (entinkarjadi@gmail.com)
Asisten : 1. Arief Yoga Randytama (arief.oik@gmail.com)
2. Marvin Ananda Taneli (marvinananda3@gmail.com)
Bobot: 3 SKS
Hokusai (1832)
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Kelas: Jumat 08:00 – 11:00
Office Hour: Dengan perjanjian
Program Studi Teknik Kelautan
Institut Teknologi Bandung
2021
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Hokusai (1831)
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Ocean Engineering Program
Institut Teknologi Bandung
2021
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Outline
1. What is a wave?
• What is water wave?
2. Syllabus
3. Course Outcomes
~ how are water waves formed?
4. Lecture Topics per Week
~ physical parameter of water waves
5. References (Books, Internet, etc.)
~ type of water waves
6. Grading
~ water waves theory
7. Class Rules
• Why study water waves?
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What is a wave?
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Wave: a continual disturbance, oscillation, or vibration that transfers energy from one location to another
▪ Mechanical waves
▪ Electromagnetic waves
Mechanical Waves
A mechanical waves is a wave that propagates as an oscillation of matter, and therefore transfers energy through
a medium
require a medium to propagate
Electromagnetic Waves
Electromagnetic waves are waves that contain an electric field and a magnetic field and carry energy. They travel
at the speed of light.
do not require a medium to propagate
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Electromagnetic Waves
▪ can travel through a vacuum
▪ can also travel through matter
▪ examples:
• radio waves, microwaves, infrared waves
• x-rays, light, heat
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Mechanical Waves
▪ travel ONLY through matter
• energy is transferred from place to place
• matters move but returns to original location
▪ travel through a solid, liquid, or gas medium
• type of medium affects how quickly the wave
can travel
▪ cannot travel through space where there is no
matter
▪ examples:
• sound waves
• ocean waves
• seismic waves
Three types of mechanical waves:
▪ Transverse Waves
particle displacement is perpendicular to the
direction of the wave propagation
▪ Longitudinal Waves
particle displacement is in the direction of the wave
propagation
▪ Surface waves
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Transverse Waves
Longitudinal Waves
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Water Waves
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Water Wave Parameters
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𝐶 = wave propagation speed
= wave celerity = 𝐿/𝑇
𝐿 = wave length
𝐻 = wave height
𝑎 = wave amplitude
ℎ = water depth
T
t
𝑇 = wave period
𝑓 = frekuensi = 1/𝑇
𝐻 = wave height
𝑎 = wave amplitude
ℎ = water depth
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Course Outcomes
Upon completion of this class, the students are expected to have
▪ the ability to
• understand the characteristics of water waves
• understand the theoretical background to predict water waves phenomena
• analyze water waves in coastal and offshore zones
▪ the ability to apply water wave theories in coastal and offshore structures design
Contributes to ABET-identified Outcomes
▪ ability to apply knowledge of basic mathematics, science, and engineering to solving ocean
engineering problems
▪ ability to identify, formulate, and solve ocean engineering problems
▪ ability to communicate effectively in oral and written forms
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Syllabus
This course introduces the students with:
▪ the mechanics of wave motion
▪ water wave theories (focus on the linear wave theory)
▪ parameters of waves and how to determine their values
▪ engineering properties of water waves
▪ transformation of waves entering shallow water
▪ introduction to
• random waves
• nonlinear waves
• long waves
• wave forces on structures.
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Prerequisite
KL 2101 Mekanika Fluida
Lectures
Wk#
1
2
3
4
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Topics
−
−
−
Linear Wave Theory −
−
−
−
Introduction
Calculation of
Wave’s Main
Parameters
Engineering Wave
Properties
(I)
Sub Topics
Physical Parameter of Water Wave
Types of Waves
Wave Theories
Progressive Wave Equations
Standing Wave Equations
Dispersion Relation
Ocean Wave Classification:
Shallow Water Waves
Intermediate Water Waves
Deep Water Waves
− Wave Length
− Wave Celerity
−
−
−
Water Particle Kinematics
Water Particle Trajectories
Pressure Field under Waves
Student Outcomes
Students understand the types of
waves and wave theories
Students undersand the progressive
wave equation, standing waves
equation, dispersion relation,
shallow water waves, and deep
water waves
Students are able to calculate wave’s
main parameters, i.e., wave length
and wave celerity
Students understand engineering
wave properties which include water
particle kinematics and pressure
field under waves
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Wk#
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6
7
8
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Topics
Sub Topics
Calculation of
Engineering Wave
Properties (I)
Engineering Wave
Properties
(II)
−
−
- Engineering
Wave Properties
(III)
- Calculation of
Engineering Wave
Properties (III)
Midterm Exam
Wave Energy
• Potential Energy
• Kinetic Energy
• Energy Flux
Water Particle Kinematics
Pressure Field under Waves
Student Outcomes
Students are able to calculate
engineering wave properties
Concept of Superposition of Two Waves : Students understand engineering
• Standing Waves
wave properties in concept of
• Partial Standing Waves
superposition of two waves
• Wave Group
Students understand the concept
of wave energy and are able to
conduct calculations related to
wave energy
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Wk#
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Topics
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Wave
Transformation in
Shallow Water (I)
−
−
−
10
Wave
Transformation in
Shallow Water (II)
−
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Introduction to
Wave Forces
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Introduction to
Random Waves
−
Sub Topics
Conservation of Wave Equation
Shoaling
Wave Refraction: Snell’s Equation,
Refraction Coefficient, Refraction
Diagram
Wave Breaking:
Wave Breaking Criterion,
Types of Wave Breaking
Wave Diffraction Breakwater
Student Outcomes
Students understand the concept
of wave transformation in shallow
water which includes conservation
of wave equation, shoaling, and
refraction
Students understand the concept
of wave breaking and wave
diffraction on breakwater
Student understand the concept of
wave forces and their calculation
using Morison Equation
Student understand the basic
concept of random waves
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Wk#
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Topics
Sub Topics
Introduction to Long
Waves
Derivation of Linear −
Wave Theory
−
−
−
−
−
−
−
15
16
Introduction to
Nonlinear Waves
Final Exam
Basic Assumptions of Fluid
Continuity Equation
Momentum Equation
Bernoulli Equation
Basic Assumptions of Linear Wave
Theory
Velocity Potential
Governing Equation
Boundary Conditions
Student Outcomes
Students understand the basic
concept of long waves
Students understand basic
assumptions of fluid, continuity
equation, momentum equation,
Bernoulli equation, linear wave
theory, velocity potential,
governing equation, and boundary
conditions
Students understand the basic
concept of nonlinear waves
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Required Textbooks
1. Dean, R.G. and Dalrymple, R.A., “Water Wave Mechanics for Engineers and Scientists,” World Scientific, 1991.
2. US Army Corps of Engineers, 2006. EM 1110-2-1100 Coastal Engineering Manual.
http://chl.erdc.usace.army.mil/chl.aspx?p=s&a=ARTICLES;104
3. “Shore Protection Manual,” Coastal Engineering Research Center, US Army Corps of Engineer, 1984.
Additional Textbooks
1. Le Mehaute, B., “An Introduction to Hydrodynamics and Water Waves,” Springer-Verlag, 1976.
2. Sorensen, R.M., “Basic Coastal Engineering,” Springer, 2006.
3. …..
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Grading
•
•
•
•
Assignments
Quiz
Midterm Exam
Final Exam
: 20 %
: 10 %
: 35 %
: 35 %
Notes: Instructor has the right to determine student’s final grade based on his/her effort.
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Ground Rules
(1) Class
▪ Class attendance is an individual student responsibility.
▪ Students are expected to attend classes.
▪ Please contact the instructor as soon as you know you will miss a class or an exam so that a
reasonable alternative can be accommodated.
▪ Unexcused absences will result in a grade of zero for the missed work (example: exam, quiz).
▪ The instructor is under no obligation to provide an opportunity for the student to make up work
missed because of an unexcused absence.
(2) Assignments
▪ Students may work together on homework assignments, and are encouraged to help one
another.
▪ Blind copying of assignments is not permitted and will receive zero credit.
(3) Exams and Quizzes
▪
▪
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All exams are open book.
Any form of cheating on the exam will result in a final grade of E.
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Code of Honor
!
Do not cheat, lie, or steal, or tolerate those who do.
(Aggie Code of Honor – Texas A & M University)
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!
Tidak berbuat curang
dan tidak mentolerir perbuatan curang!
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“Kurang cerdas dapat diperbaiki dengan
belajar, kurang cakap dapat dihilangkan
dengan pengalaman.
Namun, tidak jujur sulit diperbaiki.”
- Bung Hatta -
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Pantai Sumur Tiga, Aceh
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Pantai Mbawana, Sumba
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Pantai Kuta, Bali
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Wave Energy Distribution
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