INGLOT: CONQUERING THE WORLD BUSINESS CASE Elisa SAVART Tom POTIER Sonia ZERMANE SLIDE 1: Hello everyone, we are going to present you our analysis of the business case “INGLOT: Conquering the world”. SLIDE 2: During this presentation, we will discuss several points. First we’re going to introduce you to the INGLOT company. Then, we are going to focus on the cosmetic market. After that, we are going to review the competitive advantages of INGLOT, its internationalization strategy process and our recommended strategic plan for the next 5 years. Finally, we are going to finish with an analysis of franchisee application in France. SLIDE 3: First, does anyone know the brand INGLOT? We’re going to show you a quick ad that will let you know more about the brand. Note that this ad was released last year and the case is about the brand’s strategy before 2013. VIDEO QUESTION: For the ones who know INGOT, how would you describe this brand ? Are you consuming it ? SLIDE 4: INGLOT is a cosmetic brand that was founded in Poland in the 1980s by Wojciech Inglot, a young chemist working in pharmaceutical research. Inglot had a clear vision: to offer affordable cosmetic products made from the highest quality ingredients, something that was lacking in Poland after years of centralized socialist planning. With a background in chemistry and an entrepreneurial spirit, he founded INGLOT with the help of his brother Zbigniew, who had a PhD in physics, and their sister Elzbieta Inglot Kobylanska, who had a background in chemistry/biology. Their vision began to take shape in the historic town of Przemysl, where INGLOT began offering high-quality cosmetic products at affordable prices. The brand quickly gained popularity in Poland, thanks to its full range of colors and high quality products. In 2000, the brand decided to differentiate itself by opening its own stores, which quickly gained popularity among Polish customers. INGLOT also adopted the franchise model to accelerate its expansion, which allowed it to enter new markets around the world. INGLOT has become a recognized industry leader with major innovations such as the Freedom system, which allows customers to customize their own makeup color palette, and the first ever breathable nail polish. The brand has also set itself apart from the competition by adapting to the specific needs of each market, developing products and marketing strategies tailored to the cultural preferences and local buying habits of each market. By the end of 2012, INGLOT was present in 44 foreign countries and its products were available in nearly 200 retail outlets. Despite its rapid growth, INGLOT was 100% financed by retained earnings, without resorting to external financing or advertising. The brand relies on an extensive network of professional makeup artists to promote the brand and relies on the visibility of its flagship stores, such as the one located on Broadway in New York. INGLOT is a brand built on a solid foundation, offering high-quality products at affordable prices and adopting innovative strategies to reach new markets. With its ability to adapt to the specific needs of each market and its philosophy of providing a personalized experience to customers, INGLOT is well positioned to continue to grow in the global cosmetics industry. SLIDE 5: The cosmetics market is a constantly evolving sector, with strong competition between large multinational companies and small local companies. Consumers are looking for high quality products at affordable prices, as well as innovations in packaging and color ranges. Inglot's global presence in 44 countries demonstrates its ability to expand into very diverse markets by offering a combination of quality and affordability. Inglot's expansion in Poland has been a success, with a 10% market share thanks to a strategy of streamlining the distribution network with 179 stores (117 owned and 62 franchised). Future sources of growth for Inglot in Poland include opening stores in new shopping centers, alliances with partners offering complementary products and diversification of product lines. Inglot's international expansion has been achieved by selecting competent local partners for brand management and product distribution. However, challenges faced by the company include an unstable regulatory environment, protectionist policies and sometimes underperforming franchise partners. Despite these challenges, Inglot has a presence on six continents, with nearly complete coverage of the European markets, expansion into Latin America and Africa, and plans underway to establish a presence in the Indonesian market. Inglot's expansion into Canada and the Middle East was triggered by local entrepreneurs and sales took off without any major advertising effort. In Australia, Lithuania, United Kingdom, Ukraine and the United States, Inglot decided to open its own branches rather than rely on franchise partners. However, operating its own stores abroad has been difficult and international expansion has instead been based on a franchise model with no upfront payments or royalties. In terms of competition, Inglot has been able to differentiate itself from its competitors by focusing on packaging, display, color scheme, and real-time product availability. Its main competitors include global giants such as MAC, Shiseido and L'Oreal, as well as brands such as Bobbi Brown, Make Up Store and Make Up For Ever. Inglot has also faced competition from large cosmetics retailers such as Sephora, which sell a wide range of brands, including Inglot and its competitors. SLIDE 6: At the corporate (micro) level, research and development (R&D) is a key factor in developing Inglot's competitive advantages. The company has invested heavily in R&D to develop unique and innovative products that meet customers' needs. For example, the Freedom System, which allows customers to customize their own makeup color palette, is an exclusive Inglot product that offers customers a personalized experience. Similarly, the first-ever breathable nail polish developed by Inglot is another example of the company's ability to innovate in the cosmetics industry. In addition, Inglot has sought to offer unexpected additional benefits for customers, such as breathable nail polish that is popular with Muslim women who are allowed to wear only porous materials during prayers. R&D continues to be a priority for Inglot, which is constantly looking to develop new and innovative products to meet consumer needs. Production is another important factor in developing Inglot's competitive advantages. The company uses only the best ingredients from countries known for the quality of their cosmetic ingredients. The machines used by Inglot are industry standard, with some custom designed to produce innovative products. In addition, Inglot refuses to outsource production in order to maintain its ability to quickly replenish inventory anywhere in the world. Inglot's ability to adapt quickly allows it to react to changing color trends mid-year, producing additional quantities of product based on customer demand. Inglot's high quality production, combined with its ability to adapt quickly, is an important asset for the company in the cosmetics industry. Marketing and distribution are also key factors in developing Inglot's competitive advantages. The company began expanding internationally with a network of stores managed by five subsidiaries and then chose to focus on franchising. By keeping its franchise model simple, Inglot has focused on developing a long-term relationship with franchisees rather than maximizing short-term profits. Inglot has also cooperated with large chain stores and pursued alliances with cosmetics companies offering a complementary range. In terms of marketing, Inglot has reduced advertising expenses while detecting the latest market trends and adapting its offer accordingly. The company relies on an extensive network of external collaborators - renowned make-up artists and color consultants who often promote its products through their own artwork. Another important micro factor is the company's strong focus on research and development. INGLOT has maintained its innovation edge in the cosmetics industry by developing products such as the Freedom System concept that allows customers to create their own custom color palette, as well as the first breathable nail polish. INGLOT's quick adaptability allows it to react quickly to changing color trends mid-year, and INGLOT's R&D and production facilities in Przemysl have a highly skilled but relatively inexpensive workforce. SLIDE 7: At the macro level, several factors also contribute to the development of Inglot's competitive advantages. First of all, the geographical location of Poland is an important asset for the company. Poland is centrally located in Europe, which facilitates the distribution of its products throughout the region. In addition, Poland's highly skilled and inexpensive workforce has enabled Inglot to produce high-quality products at competitive prices. Poland is also benefiting from an improved regional infrastructure, which facilitates the logistics and transportation of Inglot's products. The construction of a new airport terminal in the nearby city of Rzeszow and the completion of a highway network have significantly improved the infrastructure of the region. This allows Inglot to quickly ship its products to customers around the world. In addition, the rapid growth of the cosmetics industry worldwide provides many opportunities for Inglot. According to a report by ResearchAndMarkets.com, the global cosmetics market is expected to reach 760 billion dollars by 2027, growing at a compound annual growth rate of 5.9 percent during the forecast period of 2020 to 2027. This growth can be attributed to several factors such as increasing disposable income, increasing demand for natural and organic beauty products, increasing demand for high-quality makeup products, and increasing demand for anti-aging skin care products. This growth can be an opportunity for Inglot to offer a diverse and high-quality product line to meet the growing consumer demand for innovative and eco-friendly beauty products. The company has already begun to diversify its product offer by offering products for men as well as white cosmetics and fragrances. This diversification can help Inglot remain competitive in the market by offering a wider range of products and meeting the ever-changing needs of consumers. However, the sustainability of Inglot's competitive advantage will depend on its ability to continue to innovate and meet the evolving needs of consumers. Inglot must continue to invest in research and development to develop new and innovative products that meet consumer needs. Competition in the cosmetics industry is fierce and Inglot must continue to differentiate itself by offering unique and high quality products to maintain its competitive edge. In addition, government regulations regarding cosmetic products may also affect the sustainability of Inglot's competitive advantage. Changes in regulations may make it more difficult for Inglot to sell its products in certain countries or require additional costs to comply with regulations. Therefore, Inglot must be able to adapt quickly to regulatory changes and continue to meet the highest standards of product quality and safety to maintain its brand reputation and competitive advantage. To illustrate, one example is the European Union (EU) regulations on cosmetic ingredients. Since 2013, the EU has banned the use of over 1,300 ingredients in cosmetic products. This regulation has had a significant impact on the cosmetics industry and on companies looking to sell cosmetics in Europe. Inglot, which sells products in the EU, has had to adapt to these regulations by reformulating some of its products and removing certain ingredients from its ingredient list. This resulted in additional costs for the company, but by complying with the regulations, it was able to continue selling its products in the EU. SLIDE 8: INGLOT's internationalization process is clearly a pre-planned expansion by the company's strategists. The brand began its international expansion in 2006 with the opening of a store in Ireland, and since then it has expanded its presence to more than 80 countries around the world. INGLOT has adopted a progressive expansion strategy, focusing on key markets in Europe, Asia, Latin America and the Middle East. The brand has also used a franchise approach to expand overseas. This strategy was clearly carefully chosen as it was a perfect fit for the Polish company. A franchise is a business agreement in which a company called a franchisor allows another company called a franchisee to use its brand name, products and business know-how in return for payment. The franchisee operates its own store while following the franchisor's guidelines in terms of products, marketing, sales, training and operational standards. In exchange, the franchisee must pay a royalty or percentage of sales to the franchisor. Franchising is an effective way for companies to expand rapidly abroad with little initial investment and shared risk with the franchisee. While INGLOT's internationalization strategy can be characterized as pre-determined, it is important to note that the company has also demonstrated flexibility and adaptability in response to specific market conditions. For example, in some cases, the company has partnered with local entrepreneurs or franchise stores to enter new markets, rather than opening its own stores. This approach allows the company to enter new markets with lower capital costs and risks. In addition, the company has faced challenges in some markets, such as an unstable regulatory environment in some countries. This suggests that INGLOT's expansion has not always gone as planned and that the company has had to adapt to unexpected challenges. Furthermore, although INGLOT invested in marketing and branding, the case suggests that the company did not focus enormous resources on these efforts. Instead, it relied on word-of-mouth marketing and the quality of its products to establish its brand reputation in new markets. This approach allowed the company to expand its global presence while keeping costs under control. In sum, the franchising strategy used by INGLOT to expand internationally has several advantages: 1) Control over product quality and presentation: INGLOT is a company that places great importance on the quality of its products and the presentation of its brand. The selective franchising strategy allows the company to maintain strict control over how its products are presented and sold in the franchised stores, ensuring that quality and service standards are met. 2) Reduced financial risk: International expansion can be costly and risky. By adopting a franchise strategy, INGLOT can share the costs and risks with its franchise partners. New store opening and marketing costs are shared between the company and the franchisees, allowing INGLOT to reduce its investment and financial risks. 3) Access to local know-how: The franchise strategy also allows INGLOT to benefit from the local expertise of its franchise partners. Franchisees have in-depth knowledge of the local market and consumer culture, which can help INGLOT adapt its products and services to better meet local needs. 4) Rapid Expansion: The franchise strategy allows INGLOT to expand quickly into new markets, without having to invest in opening new stores and training new employees. Franchise partners can quickly open new stores and run their own businesses, allowing INGLOT to quickly expand its international presence. However, internationalization through franchising can present certain risks. While the selective distribution franchise strategy is an effective way for INGLOT to rapidly expand its international presence while limiting financial risks, it does not necessarily guarantee good results. For the success of this strategy, several factors are involved: 1) The quality of the franchise partners: the selection of competent and committed franchise partners is crucial to the success of the franchise strategy. If franchisees are unable to provide quality customer service or fail to adapt to local needs, it can damage the brand's reputation and lead to lower sales. 2) Adapting to local markets: consumer needs vary from market to market, and it is important that INGLOT adapt its products and services to meet local needs. Franchise partners must also have a thorough knowledge of local markets to adapt to the tastes and preferences of local consumers. In this case, for example, it is said that protectionist policies could be a big challenge for INGLOT. 3) Training and support: proper training and support of franchise partners is essential to ensure that the brand is presented consistently and that quality standards are met. 4) INGLOT must provide its franchisees with adequate training on its products and services, as well as marketing and management tools to help them run their businesses. 5) Communication: clear and regular communication between INGLOT and its franchise partners is important to maintain effective collaboration and to ensure that all business objectives are understood and achieved. The other entry mode used by INGLOT is the opening of its own subsidiaries. In this model, INGLOT invests in the creation of its own stores and infrastructure to ensure the distribution of its products abroad. This model offers the company greater control over the distribution of its products, as well as greater freedom in defining its own marketing and sales strategies. However, opening its own subsidiaries can be more costly and risky than using a franchise, as the company must make significant investments in creating and managing its own infrastructure and operations. It would be advisable for INGLOT to prioritize franchising as a means of expanding their international presence due to lower costs, but they must ensure that they maintain a high level of control over these franchises to safeguard their brand reputation. SLIDE 9: For geographic expansion, INGLOT could consider a market selection approach that involves an in-depth analysis of each potential market based on criteria such as market size, economic growth, competition, consumer trends, barriers to entry, and regulations. Using these criteria, INGLOT could identify the markets that have the greatest growth potential for its brand. SLIDE 10: Looking at this chart, we can see all the countries in which INGLOT has established a presence. Although INGLOT has experienced rapid growth and successful international expansion, the brand is not yet present in the Chinese market. Entering the Chinese market can be difficult due to logistical, regulatory, cultural and competitive challenges. However, it remains huge and growing, offering significant opportunities for the brand. China is one of the most dynamic and promising markets in the world for the cosmetics industry. With a population of over 1.4 billion and a growing middle class, the opportunities for cosmetic brands are huge. Therefore, it is very important for Inglot to enter the Chinese market in order to benefit from this growth and expansion opportunity. Indeed, in 2012, the cosmetics market accounted for a turnover of 160 billion yuan (25 billion US dollars). In addition, foreign brands accounted for about 60% of the cosmetics market in China, so this is a big opportunity for INGLOT to enter. SLIDE 11: To succeed in this market, INGLOT can take a cue from the strategy of the Shiseido brand. In order to complete its expansion in Asia, the Japanese brand has focused on several areas: 1) Launching brands tailored to Chinese consumers : Shiseido has launched brands specifically tailored to the needs and preferences of Chinese consumers. For example, in 2011, Shiseido launched the premium brand Za in China to meet the growing demand for high-end beauty products in the country. 2) Strengthening distribution: Shiseido has enhanced distribution in China by opening new stores and expanding its distribution network. In 2011, it opened the first Shiseido store in China, in Shanghai, and has continued to open new stores throughout the country. In 2016, it expanded its partnership with Chinese beauty retailer A.S. Watson to distribute its products nationwide. 3) Use of social networks: Shiseido has also used social networks in China to reach local consumers. It launched advertising campaigns on WeChat, the most popular social network in China, to reach Chinese consumers and used local influencers to promote its products. 4) Developing new products for China: Shiseido has developed specific products for China to meet the needs of local consumers. In 2015, it launched an exclusive skincare line for China called Aupres Jingwei, which uses natural Chinese ingredients to meet the skin needs of Chinese consumers. SLIDE 12: In order to be successful in this new market, we have several suggestions. First of all, Inglot must invest in marketing and allocate a large budget for this purpose, as advertising and marketing are key elements for success in China. According to CTR China, all cosmetic brands spend a considerable amount on advertising and marketing. This is necessary because the beauty market in China is very competitive and the Chinese are very sensitive to the image and reputation of a brand. Regarding sales channels, according to Euromonitor, department stores, hypermarkets and health and beauty retailers are the most popular sales channels in China. However, the market share of supermarkets and department stores is declining, while health and beauty retailers are booming, both in retail and online. INGLOT should multiply its sales channels and focus on e-commerce and be present on popular online sales platforms in China, such as Tmall, JD.com and Kaola, to reach a wider audience. To maximize its chances of success in China, Inglot must also have a strategy regarding the geographical location of their store. One of the country's two largest cities, Beijing or Shanghai, as recommended by Orient Security's report, would allow the brand to capture a significant share of the market and better understand the needs and expectations of Chinese consumers. Indeed, in 2012, Shanghai, Beijing and Guangzhou were the most important cities for cosmetics sales in China, together accounting for 40% of total sales. The Inglot brand is generally considered to belong to the "masstige" segment due to its product offering located halfway between prestige and mass-market, with moderate prices and a sophisticated brand image. In 2012, according to Guosen's "Research Report on China's Cosmetics Industry II", the "Masstige" and "High mass" segments are the most popular in China regarding cosmetic products. This is another indicator that guarantees the brand a sure success and a large market share. SLIDE 13: Regarding the evolution of the business model, here are our recommendations: 1) Adopt a multi-channel sales approach: INGLOT should seek to increase its online presence by creating an online store to make it easier for customers to shop. Online sales channels allow customers to buy anytime, anywhere, which can increase sales and customer loyalty. INGLOT should also consider selling its products through third-party online sales platforms such as Amazon or Sephora, which have a large reach and an established customer base. 2) Invest in e-commerce: In addition to opening an online store, INGLOT should invest in e-commerce to provide a smooth and enjoyable online shopping experience for its customers. This could include features such as advanced search tools to help customers find specific products, customization options for products, exclusive online specials, and free or low-cost shipping offers to entice customers to buy online. 3) Open new stores in strategic locations: INGLOT should identify strategic locations to open new stores to expand its reach and attract new customers. Shopping malls, major cities, and tourist destinations could be attractive locations to consider for new store openings. 4) Expand its service offering by offering professional beauty services: INGLOT could consider expanding its service offer by offering professional beauty services such as bridal makeup, makeup training or even personalized consultations. This could help build customer engagement and encourage long-term loyalty. INGLOT could also offer special promotions for beauty services to attract new customers and encourage existing customers to purchase more products. 5) Implement loyalty programs: similar to beauty giant Sephora, INGLOT could implement a loyalty program to reward repeat customers and encourage brand loyalty. These programs could offer benefits such as discounts on purchases, free samples, invitations to exclusive events, etc. QUESTION: Have you ever seen an ad for INGLOT on social networks, on instagram or on tiktok for example? 6) That’s why we would also recommend investing heavily in advertising and social media: INGLOT could increase its marketing efforts by investing in advertising campaigns and creating a strong social media presence. This could help increase brand awareness and attract new customers. With the rise of social media, INGLOT is losing the huge group of potential customers that are young people on social media. 7) Develop a sustainability strategy: INGLOT could adopt a sustainability strategy to meet the growing consumer demand for environmentally friendly and ethical products. This could include initiatives such as reducing carbon footprints, using sustainable materials and promoting gender equality. 8) Offer online training: INGLOT could offer online training for makeup professionals and customers interested in learning professional makeup techniques. This initiative could also help build brand awareness and boost sales. SLIDE 14: INGLOT may consider expanding its product line by introducing complementary products to its makeup line, such as skin care, hair care and fragrances. This strategy could allow the brand to retain its existing customer base by offering them a more complete shopping experience and meeting more of their beauty needs. It could also attract new customers who may be interested in complementary products and may be tempted to try the brand's makeup products. Moreover, with the growing influence of South Korean beauty in China, Chinese men have become a key customer target for cosmetic brands. Therefore, INGLOT may consider developing a men's product line that caters to this growing demand. This could help the brand differentiate itself from its competitors and position itself as an innovative and modern brand. Finally, INGLOT could also consider creating collaborations with local celebrities or influencers to promote its products and reach a wider audience. Celebrities and influencers have an important impact on the purchasing decisions of consumers in each country and could help the brand build awareness and credibility in those countries. SLIDE 15: PESTEL Regarding all of this information, we’re gonna take a look at our PESTEL analysis. Politics : - The geopolitical situation of the countries in which INGLOT operates is relatively stable for the most part. - Geopolitical tensions between certain countries may have affected the availability and accessibility of raw materials or impacted the import and export costs of INGLOT products. Economic: - The 2008-2009 economic crisis impacted consumer purchasing power, forcing consumers to be more selective in their spending on cosmetic products, which may have affected INGLOT's sales in the short term. - Emerging markets, such as Asia and Latin America, have experienced rapid economic growth, providing expansion opportunities for INGLOT. Sociocultural: - Consumers are increasingly aware of diversity and are looking for products to suit different skin colors and hair types. INGLOT must meet these expectations to reach a wider audience. - The emergence of makeup tutorials on YouTube and social networks has made consumers more sophisticated and demanding in terms of product quality and performance. Technological: - INGLOT has developed a "Freedom System" technology, which allows customers to customize their makeup palettes with a variety of colors and textures, offering a unique experience tailored to their needs. - The company has also invested in the research and development of new materials and processes to improve the quality and durability of its products. Environmental: - INGLOT has implemented initiatives to reduce its environmental footprint, including using recyclable packaging and minimizing waste during production. - Since 2011, the company has been committed to using only environmentally friendly ingredients and excluding controversial substances like parabens from its formulations. Legal: - INGLOT must comply with specific regulations in each country regarding permitted ingredients, safety testing and labeling of cosmetic products. - The company must also comply with data privacy regulations, such as the RGPD in Europe, when handling customer information online or at its retail locations. SLIDE 16: We will now present an analysis of the opportunity for INGLOT to develop in France, with the pros and cons, taking into account the P&L and the financial balance sheet of the company over the last 3 years. On the face of it, everything suggests that expansion in France could be very beneficial for the company. France is known for its thriving beauty market, with a strong demand for high-end and innovative cosmetics. INGLOT, as a reputable brand, is well positioned to meet this demand. In addition, INGLOT has already successfully established a global presence using a proven franchise model. This can be an advantage for new franchisees in France, who can benefit from the company's expertise in this area. As France is not known for having a very different culture from other European countries, this should not be a big problem in terms of adaptation. Thus, taking into account the numerical assumptions: the turnover over the last 3 years is constantly growing. The initial cost to open an INGLOT store in France is approximately 95,000 Euros, which includes the cost of renting the commercial space, basic renovation, furniture and initial stock. French banks offer credit lines and small business loans, with an average interest rate of 3% per year, which can help finance these costs. In addition, Saturday sales are one and a half times higher than on other sales days, and December revenues are twice the normal monthly revenues, which greatly increases potential profits. With average customer spending estimated at €27 per visit and an average of 20 paying customers visiting the store every hour, the INGLOT store in France can generate significant revenue. In addition, gross margins are stable at 67% each year, suggesting that the company is maintaining efficient production costs and is able to successfully sell its products at a price high enough to generate profits. Return on investment is also steadily increasing, from 24.7% in year one to 54.3% in year three. This suggests that the company is able to generate solid profits for its shareholders. SLIDE 17: Analysis of INGLOT's overall financial data suggests that franchisee demand in France is strong, but it is important to perform a sensitivity analysis to assess the potential impacts of changes in assumptions on projected financial results. For example, year 3 shows revenues of over 1.7 million Euros, which generates a net profit of approximately 50,000 Euros. We can assume a 10% increase in costs and a 10% decrease in sales to assess the potential impact on net income. As a result, the net profit for year 3 would be reduced to about 44k euros. This is a reduction of about 6k euros compared to the initial net profit. This sensitivity analysis therefore shows that variations in sales and costs can have an impact on INGLOT's profits in France, but not to the point of totally destabilizing the company. We can therefore affirm that the French market is stable and that it is favorable. To conclude, even if the cosmetics market in France is extremely competitive, with established international brands such as L'Oreal and Lancôme, and the regulations on cosmetic products can be complex and costly to comply with, INGLOT can establish itself without great fear of being profitable in view of its performance abroad and the country's favorable economic situation. Politics Economic Sociocultural Technological ● ● ● ● ● Geopolitical situation Availability and accessibility of raw materials Import and export costs ● ● ● ● ● 2008-2009 economic crisis Consumer purchasing power Selective spending on cosmetic products Emerging markets Rapid economic growth Expansion opportunities ● ● ● ● ● ● Diversity Products for different skin colors and hair types Meeting consumer expectations Makeup tutorials Social networks Product quality and performance ● ● ● ● ● ● Freedom System technology Customizatio n of makeup palettes Variety of colors and textures Unique experience Research and development New materials and processes Quality and durability Environmental ● ● ● ● Initiatives to reduce environment al footprint Recyclable packaging Minimizing waste during production Environment ally friendly ingredients Legal ● ● Compliance with regulations Adherence to data privacy regulations