9 Department of Education National Capital Region SCHOOLS DIVISION OFFICE MARIKINA CITY TLE- Home Economics Dressmaking Third Quarter - Module 8 Layout Pattern Pieces, Cutting and Transferring of Marks onto the Fabric Writers/Illustrators: Riselle Ann A. Reyes Ma.Cecilia M. Grefiel Cover Illustrator: Christopher E. Mercado City of Good Character DISCIPLINE • GOOD TASTE • EXCELLENCE 1 City of Good Character DISCIPLINE • GOOD TASTE • EXCELLENCE 2 City of Good Character DISCIPLINE • GOOD TASTE • EXCELLENCE 3 City of Good Character DISCIPLINE • GOOD TASTE • EXCELLENCE 4 City of Good Character DISCIPLINE • GOOD TASTE • EXCELLENCE 5 This module was designed and written with you in mind. It is here to help you develop knowledge, skills, and attitudes in the performance of Dressmaking tasks. The scope of this module permits it to be used in many different learning situations. The language used recognizes the diverse vocabulary level of students. The lessons are arranged to follow the standard sequence of the course. But the order in which you read them can be changed to correspond with the textbook you are now using. The Module 8 is divided into two lessons, namely: • Lesson 1 – Laying out pattern pieces for children’s wear • Lesson 2 – Cutting fabric and Transferring of pattern marks onto the fabric After going through these lessons, you are expected to: 1. use proper tools, materials, and equipment for laying-out, pinning, cutting, and transferring of patterns marks on the fabric; 2. follow the guidelines in laying-out, pinning, cutting, and transferring of pattern marks on the fabric; and 3. lay-out and pin pattern pieces, cut fabric and transfer pattern marks on the fabric correctly. Find the meaning of the following words. You can use dictionary for reference. (1 point each) 1. Selvage 2. Warp 3. Weft 4. Bias facing 5. Seam line City of Good Character DISCIPLINE • GOOD TASTE • EXCELLENCE 6 Lesson 1 Laying out and pinning of pattern pieces on the fabric in preparation for cutting is one of the most important procedures in sewing a children’s wear. There are methods and techniques in preparing the materials before laying out and pinning the pattern pieces. The preparation of materials like fabric should be done carefully and accurately for an appealing result. Preparing the materials correctly and laying out and pinning the patterns onto the fabric accurately will help to have an excellent output. The success of making this will depend on how you follow the ways, techniques, and methods. Have you ever worn a garment with one side seam that kept twisting toward the front? That is a typical consequence of fabric that has not been cut on the grain. Have you ever sewn a garment and ended up with different lengths when trying to match up a seam? That can often happen when your cutting is not as accurate as it could be. Properly prepping and cutting your fabric is the first step for sewing garments that fit well. Cutting your patterns out accurately, and on the straight of grain, is essential for seams that go together with ease, and continue to hang well while wearing. On the other hand, transferring your pattern markings onto fabric itself is an important step that will set you up to sew more easily. Construction markings are very helpful during the sewing process and transferring them to the fabric is a good idea. Why? It is because it will help you to transfer the important pattern markings and symbols from your patterns onto fabric to achieve your preferred design. Remember In dressmaking, it is important to finish your work by following the step-by-step guideline and procedures so that you will achieve the accuracy in it. Sooner or later, you will be benefited by practicing that process because not everyone is given this kind of knowledge and skill. City of Good Character DISCIPLINE • GOOD TASTE • EXCELLENCE 7 PREPARING THE MATERIALS It is the first step in the process of laying-out and pinning the pattern pieces on the fabric. TOOLS AND MATERIALS NEEDED: 1. CUTTING TABLE 2. FABRICS 3. PATTERN PIECES 4. PINS City of Good Character DISCIPLINE • GOOD TASTE • EXCELLENCE 8 GUIDELINES IN LAYING-OUT AND PINNING PATTERN PIECES ON THE FABRIC: It is the process of arranging the pattern pieces of fabric laid on a flat smooth surface of the table. In doing this, the pattern pieces should be properly aligned on the surface of the fabric parallel to the selvage so that the fabric will straighten when cut. You must also consider the design in laying out of pattern and maximized the materials to avoid wasting. It is also important to remember that the largest piece of the pattern should be laid out first down to the smallest pieces. Note: Before proceeding in laying-out your fabric, make sure you press/iron the whole fabric to remove the wrinkles because wrinkled fabrics cannot be cut accurately. Check also if the fabric’s wrong side is in the outside part. BLOUSE and COLLAR: 1. Lay large pieces of pattern first on the cloth 2. Check that the center fold symbol falls on the folded edge of the fabric. City of Good Character DISCIPLINE • GOOD TASTE • EXCELLENCE 9 FLARED SKIRT: 1. Fold the fabric in 45°, warp and weft meeting SET-IN SLEEVE: 1. Sleeve pattern may be laid open or close to the fabric. City of Good Character DISCIPLINE • GOOD TASTE • EXCELLENCE 10 WAISTBAND: 1. Lay-out *waistband pattern. • Waistband pattern – width = waist measurement + 3 inches, height = 3 inches, connect the lines then make a rectangle Waist measurement + 3” 3” PREPARING THE BIAS FACING: 1. Fold the fabric 45°. Determine the facing needed and mark directly on the cloth. • Bias facing width = ½ inch City of Good Character DISCIPLINE • GOOD TASTE • EXCELLENCE 11 PINNING PATTERN PIECES ON THE FABRIC: Sewing pin is a tool used in pinning the pattern onto the fabric. It is the process of holding two or more fabrics together. There are only three ways of pinning the pattern pieces; vertical, horizontal, and diagonal. Techniques in pinning the pattern pieces to fabric: 1. Checked the folded edge of the pattern pieces aligns with the fabric fold, otherwise, the pattern pieces will be smaller or larger than the correct size. 2. Check the distance of the pattern pieces before pinning them. 3. Start pinning the corner of the pattern pieces diagonally to hold more the pattern and to make it flat. 4. Put only enough pins, too many pins may twist the edge of the pattern and fabric. 5. Place the pins on the seam allowances, 2.5 cm or 1 inch away from the edge of the fabric or pattern pieces. The distance of each pin is at least 12.5cm or 5 inches away from the other pins. Note: Always minimize the pin holes if possible, most especially on a delicate fabric. Refer to the illustrations below: City of Good Character DISCIPLINE • GOOD TASTE • EXCELLENCE 12 Lesson 2 Cutting Fabric and Transferring of Pattern Marks on the Fabric Cutting (sewing) – is the process right after laying-out which cut out the pattern pieces from specified fabric for making garments. For example: Cutting your fabric properly with the help of the dressmaker’s shear is one of the important steps to achieve your desired garment piece. Transferring of Pattern Marks – an act or process of moving construction marks from pattern pieces to the fabric. For example: I need to transfer all these pattern markings and symbols to the fabric because it will serve as my guide while sewing. TOOLS AND MATERIALS NEEDED IN CUTTING: 1. Cutting Table 2. Dressmaker’s Shears City of Good Character DISCIPLINE • GOOD TASTE • EXCELLENCE 13 GUIDELINES IN CUTTING THE FABRIC FOR YOUR CHILDREN’S WEAR: Always remember to ask the teacher first to approve your layout before proceeding to cut. Then study your layout and decide on the order of cutting the fabric. Where should you start? How should your fabric be placed on the work surface? Where should you stand? And always remember these useful tips so you can run your project smoothly: 1. Practice using the shears on a piece of cloth to have a smooth cutting line. 2. Cut along the pattern so that the other hand rests on the pattern. 3. Do not lift the fabric. 4. When cutting curves, your strokes will be shorter. Keep your free hand close to the cutting line to help you cut a smooth curved line. 5. Cut the bigger parts first, smaller parts should be cut last. 6. As you cut, walk around the table. Do not pull the fabric toward you as the fabric may slip or stretch out of shape. 7. After cutting each part, put it aside. Do not remove the pins and patterns as you will need them in marking the fabric. 8. Collect and keep all scraps of cloth together for future use. FRONT BLOUSE: BACK BLOUSE: 1. Cut back blouse from neckline, shoulder to the hem. 2. Move around the table while cutting the fabric. 1. Lay your hands on the fabric while cutting. City of Good Character DISCIPLINE • GOOD TASTE • EXCELLENCE 14 BIAS FACING: FLARED SKIRT: Bias Facing is cut 45° angle Cut the fabric following the final FLARED SKIRT SET-IN SLEEVE PETER PAN COLLAR WAISTBAND City of Good Character DISCIPLINE • GOOD TASTE • EXCELLENCE 15 POCKET: Patch pocket comes in several size and shape. • Recheck the completeness of the garment parts after cutting the fabrics. bias facing pocket waistband City of Good Character DISCIPLINE • GOOD TASTE • EXCELLENCE 16 TOOLS AND MATERIALS NEEDED FOR MARKINGS: 1. Tracing wheel 3. Tailor’s chalk 2. Dressmaker’s carbon paper (or carbon paper will do) 4. Ruler City of Good Character DISCIPLINE • GOOD TASTE • EXCELLENCE 17 GUIDELINES IN TRANSFERRING PATTERN MARKS ON THE FABRIC: Transferring pattern markings to the cloth must be done accurately so that the finished garment will look peculiar. You are now familiar with the tools used in transferring pattern markings. Now, remember these pointers for accurate markings on your fabric. 1. The pattern details should be marked on the wrong side of garment pieces. 2. Place a piece of cardboard or newspaper under the fabric to prevent you from marking the table. 3. Remove the pins from the part where the marks are to be transferred. 4. Trace the seam line into the fabrics. Refer to the illustrations below: City of Good Character DISCIPLINE • GOOD TASTE • EXCELLENCE 18 Read the statement carefully. Write True on the space provided if the statement is correct and if False change the underlined words to make it correct. 1. In laying out of pattern pieces on the fabric, you must consider the design of the fabric. 2. The fabric should be on wrong side to wrong side when laying out the pattern pieces. 3. The fabric preparation is the first step in constructing the children’s wear. 4. Do not lift the fabric. 5. Lay-out the small pattern pieces before the big pieces. In 3-5 sentences, answer the following questions below. 1. What will be the possible effects if you lay out your pattern pieces on the right side of the fabric? . 2. Site some advantages if you use sharp shears while cutting? _. 3. Is it important to transfer the pattern markings to the fabric? Why? . City of Good Character DISCIPLINE • GOOD TASTE • EXCELLENCE 19 RUBRICS FOR ESSAY TYPE 20 15 Used Used Mechanics capitalization capitalization and and punctuation. and Grammar All words punctuation. spelled 1 to 2 spelling correctly. mistakes. Legibility 10 5 Forgot capitalization and punctuation. 3 or more spelling mistakes. Forgot capitalization and punctuation. 5 or more mistakes. SCORE Correct answer Correct Correct answer Correct written in a answer written written in a answer but sentence with 2 in a sentence sentence but not in supporting with 1 no supporting sentence. details from supporting detail. the text. detail from the text. Total Score 40 points Perform laying-out, pinning, cutting, and transferring of pattern marks to the fabric. You will be graded according to the rubrics below. *every performance should be done for thirty minutes ONLY Online (Take a Video): Take a video while performing laying-out, pinning, cutting, and transferring of pattern marks to the fabric. Submit the video through online learning platform provided by teacher. Offline (Take a Picture): Take at least 10 photos while performing laying-out, pinning, cutting, and transferring of pattern marks to the fabric (refer to the illustrations on this module). Paste it in a long bond paper and submit together with the module. City of Good Character DISCIPLINE • GOOD TASTE • EXCELLENCE 20 RUBRIC IN LAYING-OUT AND PINNING PATTERN PIECES ON THE FABRIC (ONLINE AND OFFLINE) Item Tools Procedure Speed 15 10 5 Tools were complete, appropriate and correctly used. Lack of one tool, some are appropriate and correctly used. Procedures in laying-out and pinning were correctly followed. Some procedures in laying-out and pinning were incorrectly followed. Lack of two or more tools, some are appropriate and not correctly used. Failed to follow the correct procedures in laying-out and pinning pattern pieces. Score Finished laying-out Finished laying-out Finished laying-out and pinning ahead of and pinning on and pinning more time. time. than the allotted time. 45 points perfect score RUBRIC IN CUTTING AND TRANSFERRING PATTERNS MARKS ON THE FABRIC (ONLINE AND OFFLINE) Item Tools Procedure Speed 15 Tools were complete, appropriate and correctly used. 10 Lack of one tool, some are appropriate and correctly used. Procedures in cutting and transferring pattern marks were correctly followed. Some procedures in cutting and transferring pattern marks were incorrectly followed. Finished cutting and Finished cutting transferring pattern and transferring pattern marks on marks ahead of time. time. 5 Lack of two or more tools, some are appropriate and not correctly used. Failed to follow the procedures in cutting and transferring pattern marks to the fabric Score Finished cutting and transferring pattern marks more than the allotted time. 45 points perfect score City of Good Character DISCIPLINE • GOOD TASTE • EXCELLENCE 21 Put smiley emoticon (☺) on the statement that describes laying-out, pinning, cutting, and transferring pattern marks on the fabric and sad emoticon () if not. Write your answer on the space provided. 1. 2. Trace the seam line into the fabrics. In pattern drafting to obtain an accurate draft, use a sharp pencil and a ruler for drawing straight lines. 3. Cut the smaller parts last. 4. Lay your hands on the fabric while cutting. 5. Patterns must be made larger than body measurements to allow for freedom of movement, ease of action and comfort in wearing. 6. Connect dotted lines using the free hand. 7. Do not lift the fabric. 8. Pattern drafting prevent serious mistakes in dressmaking. 9. Check the distance of the pattern pieces before pinning them. 10. Bigger parts should be cut out first. City of Good Character DISCIPLINE • GOOD TASTE • EXCELLENCE 18 Identify the following pictures below. Write the name of each tool/material under each picture then tell whether if it is a CUTTING TOOL or MARKING TOOL. Write your answer on the space provided. Two (2) points each 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. City of Good Character DISCIPLINE • GOOD TASTE • EXCELLENCE 18 Answer Key City of Good Character DISCIPLINE • GOOD TASTE • EXCELLENCE 18 Laying-out, Pinning, Cutting and Transferring of Pattern Marks to the Fabric Home Economics: Dressmaking (Produce Children’s wear) Learners material pages 237 –244 Retrieved from file:///C:/Users/Hyacinth/Music/CISSL%20FILES/Final%20Copy%20LMDressmaking%20(18%20mb).pdf Introduction to Guidelines in Cutting and Transferring Pattern Symbols. Retrieved from https://www.mybluprint.com/article/how-to-cut-fabric-for-sewing Retrieved from https://blog.megannielsen.com/2017/04/five-ways-transfer-patternmarkingsfabric/ Cutting definition. Retrieved from https://www.textileschool.com/459/fabric-cutting-ingarment-manufacturing/ Cutting table picture. Retrieved from https://images.app.goo.gl/iw98wwtyMDRVgBrh9 City of Good Character DISCIPLINE • GOOD TASTE • EXCELLENCE 19 Development Team of the Module Writers: Riselle Ann A. Reyes (TI-CIS-SL) Ma. Cecilia M. Grefiel (TI-PHS) Validator: Jeanie M. Regencia (TIII-SEHS) Editors: Edna A. Undazan (Dept. Head- CIS-SL) Nerissa S. Estrella (ASP II, OIC - THS) Internal Reviewer: Joseph T. Santos (EPS-EPP/TLE/TVL) Illustrators: Riselle Ann A. Reyes (CIS-SL) Ma. Cecilia M. Grefiel (PHS) Lay-out Artist: Management Team: Sheryll T. Gayola Assistant Schools Division Superintendent OIC, Office of the Schools Division Superintendent Elisa O. Cerveza Chief, Curriculum Implementation Division OIC, Office of the Assistant Schools Division Superintendent Joseph T. Santos Education Program Supervisor-EPP/TLE/TVL Ivy Coney A. Gamatero EPS-Learning Resource Management and Development System For inquiries or feedback, please write or call: Schools Division Office- Marikina City Email Address: sdo.marikina@deped.gov.ph 191 Shoe Ave., Sta. Elena, Marikina City, 1800, Philippines Telefax: (02) 682-2472 / 682-3989 City of Good Character DISCIPLINE • GOOD TASTE • EXCELLENCE