.. ·: -;:. ... .·:j.~;.~ .~~ .1~~~~-,/,\·;f~~:.;.~" -.. ·''~·"'""';r;. "• • , : ;r,1~ ;.?:;. ""*' .r,,,. ......,;.,.-::.~.... .·. ~ ~ .,-i,.iiif~ ~".:.~~ -.. ~t"if t:',. · .., . / H/,,,i 'rif'i. ·- ~; " .... --:;, PA Locked Case I . ,. ., ~....tr "' _..... ,,...,. . :J , •. ,:i~ 't; ..... ...._. ..,,..,·.... URBANBLIGHT Copyright No part 1990 by Joseph Roider of this book may be reproduced without the consent of: Joe Roider Post Off i ce Box 44 205 Pitts burgh, PA 15205 Handmade and printed Show your support by refr a ining by unemployed climbers. f r om making copies for your friends. JUST IN CASE THAT' S NOT ENOUGH ,l.. {j_.. cPv WARNING ! LIGHT SBN SITIVBPAPER Any Attempt to Copy th is DocUllent, May result in Severe Daaa ge t o c opy Machine and Operat or APR I 3 J9g4 Penna. Oepl f HE CARNEGIE UBRAl:Y OF FlrTS ~URGH /qi,'/ ,Z .P'f )-. p[p /'lt:J ,<. EEAQ ~ BEFORE 1QY CLIMB The climbs prese .nted in this book are potentially dangerous and should not be undertaken by the inexperienced starter. I strongly recommend that you find someone who already knows how to climb and ask that person to teach you. The descriptions and tips herein are not meant to be substitutes for experience or proper instruction. By visiting any major climbing area or outdoor supply store, you can meet other climbers, most of whom should prove to be friendly with plenty of good advice. FUrthermore, it is wrong to construe that permission to been granted to the general climbing community. Many privately owned or accessed thru private land . I also recommend that one gains permission for access from the private property prior to climbing. A good idea is low-profile and to act responsibly while using these ~ecreation. climb has areas are strongly owner of to keep a areas for DISCLAIMEROF LIABILITY The author or authors of Urban Blight, its distributors and agents, shall not be held liable for any consequential damages to persons or property or for the injury or death of any climber using this book . The user assumes all responsibilities and risks of use. No instruction as to how to climb safely is implied or given .herein. nr. DEDICATEDTO THE SPIRIT OF CREATIVE CLIMBING FOREWORD This book grew slowly from my frustrations in finding time to drive to any of the better climbing areas near Pittsburgh. After a little searching I was able to locate enough areas within the city to compile this guide which makes it unnecessary to leave the Metro to enjoy climbing. The numerous hills, valleys, and rivers of the Metro provide a variety of walls, bridges, and abandoned quarries which will challenge any urban climber (it is a fact that Pittsburgh is the #1 city of bridges in the U.S.A.). This geography makes it unique in the climbing world and as sociologists predicted the spread of "Urban Blight " is escalating in Pittsburgh. The evolution of climbing has now made urban climbing a valid endeavor, made easier thru the use of guidebooks like this . This book gives the climb's locations and brief descriptions of each climb. These climbs range from the very easy to the very difficult to accommodate the range of different climber's abilities . Most of the climbs will be challenging and good training for the novice, while others will prove to be beneficial for the advanced climber. The easier climbs quickly convert into ~orkouts by doing dynos, or become more difficult by eliminating a hold or two. Use your imagination to enhance the plea .sure or difficulty of any climb listed. My aim is to provide you with the information necessary to find and enjoy these climbs as much as I have enjoyed making this book. Any noteworthy additions or comments you send me will be most appreciated. Have a good time out there! Remember my motto: It ain't fun if it don't push you to the limit. Joe TABLE OF CONTENTS WALLS AND BRIDGES ••••••••••••••••••••••••• BUILDINGS • . ... ...•............•... l . ...... NATURAL ROCK •• •• ••••••••••••••••••••••••• ROCK TALK ••••••• INDEX . ...•.•..• 79 • ••••••••..•••••.••••••• . .. . ••. . ... ... 61 l 04 ...... .. ... 105 HARMARVILLERAILROAD BRIDGE (HARMARVILLE) HARMARVILLERAILROAD BRIDGE (cont.) SET UP: DESCRIPTION: One of the best and most challenging climbs I have to offer - t his bridg e is supported by stone pillars approximat e ly 70' to BO' high. The pillars are topped by 40' of steel work for structure climbing. This bridge is very well maintained and therefore clean and sturdy. The Harmarville Railroad Bridge spans the Allegheny River. It's an ideal spot for a picnic and or fishing. Included is a beautiful view of the river and nearby lock. It's a great place to spend the day climbing . DIRECTIONS: Take Rt. 28N from the North Side to the Harmarville Exit (#11). Bear towards New Ke.nsington (a left at the main intersection). The bridge spans the road a short distance ahead. EQUIPMENT: *Standard *Chalk top roping 2 If you wish to top are suggested for anchors . rope these pillars, two methods ge tting to the most promising 1) Go to the top. Walk along until you're above the pillar you wish to climb, and then climb do wn the 40' ladder and anchor off one of the beams. The problem with this method is that the tracks are regularly patrolled by workers and guards. Therefore, if you have ( in your excitement upon seeing this fine test of climbing abilities) failed to get the proper permission for climbing, you might be in a bit of a fix. 2) This method is trickier . Climb the hill until you are at the point where the structure starts. You can then climb along the lowest bea~ until you are at the pillar of your choice. There is a metal cable running waist high parallel to the beam. For safety you can biner on t o the cable. Use a second biner on a 3' webbing to reach across the vertical beams so that you won't have to be off belay when stepping around tbe .m. Use the cable only for a belay. It has some slack to it and will bend out if leaned upon, throwing your balance off. HAZARDS: None with NAMES: Pictured-"No INSPIRATION : Impossible dictionary exception Quarter to the " is a word only of fools. Napoleon items 3 height. to be found in the HARMARVILLEAUTO BRIDGE (HARMARVILLE) HARMARVILLEAUTO BRIDGE (cont.) INSPIRATION: Whatsoever thy thy might . hand findeth Ecclesiastes -··~· to do , do i t with 9:10 ,,.., 11HENYOU SAID LE"l·s 9El BACK 10 TRUE NATURE I TH()UGttT YOU tE:ANT l'IOT~ NATURE.MO T YOUROWN . ... ( / l I , \ ("' DESCRIPTION: This is the second bridge I found on the way to th e Harmarville Railroad Bridge. The bridge ha s struct ure climbing and a 30' wall to climb. It can be used as a good warm-up for the larger bridge down the road. DIRECTIONS: Take 28N from the North Side to the Exit lll. Turn right along the river . is the first on the left. EQUIPMENT: • s tand ard *Chalk SET UP: The railing top roping l. /'. r ~ Harmarville The bridg e items i s a bombproof anchor. 0£:f'!O!fSIB ATJONOF A ~AYBACK 4 5 ,. fl all ASPINWALL RAILROAD BRIDGE (cont . ) ASPINWALL RAILROAD BRIDGE (ASPINWALL} DIRECTIONS: Take 28N from North Side to the Aspinwall Exit #6. Keep left onto Freeport Road until you hit Eastern. The bridge is across the railroad tracks and up a short hill. The bridge crosses the river and becomes an inverted "Y" . The branch on your right (as you face the river) has a wall on private property. I recommend cl il!lbing the wall on the left branch . EQUIPMENT: *Standard *Chalk top roping SET UP : Top rope from fence NAMES: Pictured INSPIRATION: He who has not misery of it. : Bryce items or on "How Goes It" the spirit Voltaire DESCRIPTION: While heading to Harmarville, I sighted this promising bridge. After clil!lbing a short hill, I found some abandoned tracks leading to the bridge. Further on I saw that a fence blocked access to the river crossing. In front of the fence lay a rope bag. I thought at first that writing this book was going to pay off early. Then I noticed some webbing attached to the end of the fence. Attached to the webbing was a biner. Attached to the biner was a rope. Attached to the rope was Bryce, a clil!lber, training f or a trip to the Gunks. Bryce said the 20' wall was good for training and that nobody ever bothered h_im while climbing there. Across the river it's a different story. The 20' face has been used to practice lead clil!lbing and some hardware was put in; consequently, there is a big "NO TRESPASSING" sign painted on it. 6 7 trees of his age has all the NORTH PARK MEMORIAL (NORTH HILLS) NORTH PARK MEMORIAL (cont.) EQUIPMENT: Wear your attention. SET UP: None. TIPS : Respect shoes. Leave Bouldering the DESCRIPTION: Does running around North Park Lake make you feel as if your life is just an endless circle? Do you feel like John McEnroe in wanting to scream after a few rounds of tennis with your partner? Do the words "spawning salmon" remind you of your last swim at the pool? Perhaps you should reconsider how you spend your leisure time and take up urban climbing instead. Bouldering: Up, infinite selection some only. flora. down, 2) Dynos: Up and down, 3) Races: Start on opposite to slap the top. on the and memorial: all around, an up and down sides, be the first NAMES: "I Shall HISTORY: See plaque INSPIRATION: The world is dying of machinery; that is the greatest disease, that is the plague that will sweep away and destroy civilization; man will have to rise against it sooner or later . George Moore Return" (general dyno). on wall. This object is located where you can receive adequate attention from the public to whom you should immediately give a copy of "Urban Blight" as explanation for your seemingly odd behavior. Have fun in the great white north. Take McKnight Road, north to the entrance of North Park, which is indicated by a sign (right turn). Follow this access road to the stop sign, then go straight. You are now on Ingomar Road. Stay straight until the first red light . Look left at this intersection to see the memorial. 8 should attract bag in the car. possibilities can be enjoyed Begin by enjoying the pastoral and sensual pleasure of the North Park Memorial, a convex oddity that is perfect for a beginner or any climber looking for a practice area. DIRECTIONS: Lycra chalk neighboring The following 1) the 9 LONG WALL (NORTH SIDE) LONG WALL ( cont . ) TIPS: As always, be courteous to the locals. HA.ZARDS: Greasy NAMES: Pictured-"Raw INSPIRATION: Much has been done by both public and private sectors to improve Pittsburgh's image, but nagging pockets of blight continue to detract from the overall appearance of the city . Irvin B. Foreman Jr. Pittsburgh-Post Gazette. in spots Sewage" 1- 28 - 89 tt!E .JCEROIQ£R tQ1E STUDY CQYRSE I.ESSONDNE I.ESSON ONE 6HOUU> BE PRACTI CEO UNT11.. YOU CAN PERFORf'I THE TECHNJQUE9&ELONWJTHCIUT LOOKING AT fHt:DIAGRAl'IS.TO SUCCEEDWITH HY COUlSE Al.WAYS C011PLETE LESSONS AND~ THE SKIP A LESSON. BY FOU..OWINGTHESE GUIDELINES YOU SHOULD START• TO LOOK LJKE ME IN ABOUTB WEEKS. RENENBER OUR.NOTTO: CLIMBPEAN AND 0..EAN -JOE- DESCRIPTION: The wall begins at a height of continues for about 120' along the down to a height of several feet. about road, 25' and tapering The wall continues after 3 oo yards fo .r another 60 ' . The wall is typical large block and has a wide sidewalk running underneath. The wall's length makes it ideal for free climb traver sing exercises. DIRECTIONS: From Allegheny Center North and turn right Triangle Tech Institute Mall, onto sign. EQUIPMENT: *Top roping *Chalk bag it) the SET UP: Top roping (can't available 10 hurt take Federal Perryville looks and you'll Street at the need here. 11 cASP£RB. PT. I OUR FUTUREHERO ARRIVES AT HIS WORKPLA UNAWAREOF THE ACTIVITY ABOVE. A c:,r( JS HEARD IN THE URBANJUNGLE AS. CASP£R 8. NORTHSIDE RA.II.ROAD BRIDGE (NORTHSIDE) 11ILQTOAST STRU66LE •· URBANBLIGHT CLIMBERS ~ vs s;lill. to«JAI'· ~ s~c:. C C Cl C DC C C C 0 C D 1::1 t\ FACEDWITH A TECHNICAL PROBLEl1, THE THE ~L~NBERS PONDERTHE CONSEQUENCES OF ANCINYl10US CLil1BER9 CONSlLT THE JOE. ~HE RAPIDi..Y DESCENDINGBOOK. ROIDERBIBLE OF CLl11B1NG~ --:".H:':AND:-::'.'""'.11E:-:::-"':J:,,:O,-:Ec::S'"'·--:'.'"s~oo ...K-1 ·ANONYl10USPARTNER. DESCRIPTION: The numerous pillars supporting the bridge have 30' climbs on their four faces. There are seven faces to climb on the road alone, and even more on the off-road pillars. DIRECTIONS: Coming from downtown, take Beaver Avenue . it under Ohio River Boulevard. The bridge over the road after a couple blocks. EQUIPMENT: *Standard INSPIRATION: Mona tried to tell me, To stay away from the train line . She said that all the railroad men Just drink your blood like wine. Bob Dylan top roping Follow passes OASPER IS •THE RECEIVER OF SOME QUARK CONSCIOUSNESSIS REGAINED. THE BOOK IS OF FATE. UNKNOWINGLY COLLECTEDWITH THE PAPERS. CASPER"S DAY CONTINUES.---U:;;;;:~ [ii D D "- 0 items A GIFT FROM GOD IS SECRETLY PERUSED BY THE ACCOUNTANT. CASPERPREPARES FOR THE AT HOl'IE lRAlNlNG . BY l'IAKING - HIS FIRST SLOPPY EXIT MOVE. . AT LEAST HE DIDN'T USE HIS aic. CH!lSS 0 ROIDER SAYS 1-E CAN 11AKE1£ ..A C\..IMBING HAN . ·1N 6' 'WEEKS. o'-,s 1· µ - TRY IT! i , BOSS, I QUIT. BYE! '--'30E 12 1 13 ------- - -,- ... · ..;.T.;;;O_;_BE __ c_o_N_T_I_N_u_ED __ -1 l, • NORTHSIDE WALL (NORTHSIDE) DESCRIPTION: A long wall that supports homes on the North Side. a maximum height of about some of the more friendly Large quarried stones to Located directly behind Allegheny on the North Side (North Avenue). EQUIPMENT: *Standard *Chalk SET UP: Not necessary TIPS: Try a complete HAZARDS: The walls are easily seen from the ready for comments from otherwise who may glance out their windows. HISTORY: As old as the INSPIRATION: Ho man can evil. roping equipment unless top General Hospital roping traverse North be brave DESCRIPTION: Once again we are indebted who placed this supporting to get thru. DIRECTIONS: Look for Aviary. EQUIPMENT: *Standard SET UP: Anchor off HAZARDS: Speeding NAMES: Pictured-"Brakeman" HISTORY: A great INSPIRATION: On what strange 15'. DIRECTIONS: top WEST PARK {NORTHSIDE) hospita l , so get bored patients Side who thinks pain the the railroad in West Park items fence. trains. North Side greatest Cicero-DeOfficiis 14 tracks top roping the to the good old railroad wall to allow the trains 15 fault stuff Eliza line. ambition Cook feeds! near the SIGN THEM UP (WEST END) DESCRIPTION: DIRECTIONS: EQUIPMENT: WEST END BRIDGE This wall looks better than it is but the only safe place to climb is behind the billboard. DO NOT climb any of the other parts due to the electrical line tha t runs along the top. This line caused the death of a maintenance man in 1987 so stick to climbing behind the billboard. This is a good climb for shy people because it is usually hidden by the sign. Located on East Carson Street - it is across the street from the closed gas station and between the West End Circle and the donut shop. Easy access to the top rope set up is found on the Onala Building parking lot, where steps lead to the top. *Standard top roping items *Chalk {gets greasy behind the sign) SET UP: Top roping trees . HAZARDS: Wall gets NAMES: Changes INSPIRATION: Criteria and safe. anchors flaky 3/4 to whatever for off the of the ' s on the a good climb : 16 way up. sign. enjoyable, challenging, DESCRIPTION: A 40' high pillar with very scarce holds and a 5' high concrete bottom. The stone is composed of very hard granite {tombstone-like) which makes it totally smooth in some areas. The drainage pipe can be of help if one wants to change the climb to a structure. You probably will. DIRECTIONS: F'rom the West End Bridge make a left off the North Side end and a right onto Beaver Avenue (which runs Leside Route 65) . Make the first left and continue to the end. In other words, make a huge u-turn back to the bridge . Bear right to reach the underside of the bridge and park in a vacant lot-construction site-parking lot, which is not in present use . The pillar is reached thru a construction site and over a fence where the barbed wire is cut out. Be cautious of speeding locomotives. 17 WEST ENO BRIDGE (cont.) top roping BEGINNERS CIRCLE (WEST ENO) EQUIPMENT: *Standard SET UP: Anchor from the HAZARDS: Trains and derelicks NAMES: "Blitzed", INSPIRATION : Prepare for war with peace in thy soul. Be in peace in pleasure and pain, in gain and in loss, in victory or in the loss of a battle. In this peace there is no sin. Bhagavad Gita 2:38 bridge "What's 18 items structure. messing with pro. Cooking?" DESCRIPTION: The stone work on either side of this railroad tunnel provides a good confidence builder for any beginner. The walls are clean and 25' high. DIRECTIONS: The railroad tunnel is at the West End Circle EQUIPMENT: •standard SET UP: Anchor NAMES: Pictured INSPIRATION: That in our proper motion we ascend Up to our native seat; descent and fall us is adverse. Milton Paradise Lost top off roping the items trees - "Tomb of the 19 connected to the underpasses on East Carson Street. Unknown Climber" to NORTH 51 RAILROAD BRIDGE (MCKEES ROCKS) NORTH 51 RAILROAD BRI DGE (co nt . ) NAMES: Pictu r ed - " Br i dg e of S i ghs " INSPI RATI ON: "What k ind o f ha nd is that," he s ai d "Cramp the n if you want. Make your self into a cl aw . It wi l l do yo u no good . 11 Erne st Hemi ng way The Old Man a nd the Sea Mf RQJpE:R SJUKNTF(NDSA HANDHOLD QNA. SUPPO§&QLV 91100TH ' DESCRIPTION: This bridge is actually the other side of the North Sine Railroad Bridge. It's a nice secluded spot along the Ohio River and a good place to have a picnic. The climbing is relatively easy and the pillar by the river is fun to traverse. DIRECTIONS: On west Carson West End Circle EQUIPMENT: *Standard *Chalk *Bathing top Street; heading about 1. 3 miles away from town . roping items steel work. f rom the ~\\~ -...a_~---J~lt--~- suit SET UP: Anchor off the TIPS: Can be reached HAZARDS: There's always the chance of hitting submerged in the river if you solo over and pop off, by boat 20 or other means of flotation. something the water 21 BLUE BRIDGE (CORAOPOLIS) BLUE BRIDGE (cont.) DESCRIPTION: My students climbed here while it was closed for repairs and it provided an excellent confidence builder and exercise area . Several types of structure climbs are represented: ladders, rivets, and cables - all of which can be used to develop strength, balance, and to overcome squeamishness of heights. All the metal is very clean and new. DIRECTIONS: This bridge over the Ohio River connects the northern end of Neville Island to Coraopolis . If you exit I-79 at Coraopolis, it is on your right at the beginning of downtown Coraopolis (off of N5l). EQUIPMENT: Movable used. TIPS: The bridge good. protection has 22 of carabiners since reopened and webbing but may close can HAZARDS: Falling bridge. NAME: Pictured INSPIRATION: Terms ill defined, and forms misunderstood, And customs, when their reasons are unknown Have stirred up many zealous souls ' To fight against imaginary giants. Tupper Proverbial Philosophy into the - "Air be for 23 swift Ohio River or traffic Dance" on the THE RESERVOIR THE RESERVOIR (cont.) (CRAFTON) D. Posts and rings for coordination and exercise E. Balance beam F. Balance posts G. The courts: equipped with tennis players, (cute ones, yeah), and critics: "I climbed that when I was five" (doubtful) "I hope you fall and get killed" (loving mothers with their children) "You do that because the devil told you to; you're being evil" (small children) The Reservoir provides the urban climber with the workout needed to scale any wall. A climber can work on balance, strength, and endurance in a single location. JJ DIRECTIONS: Exit the Parkway West at Carnegie. Bear toward Heidelberg. Make the first right. Turn right at the stop sign. This is Noblestown Road. Go up the hill, past the cemetery, thru the traffic light, and around a sharp turn. Turn left on Durbin at the top of the hill. Halfway down the block,turn right onto the one lane road to the parking lot. EQUIPMENT: *Chalk fOISlt'IAll/ n II U SET UP: None (optional) - all climbs - stone are is very boulderable clean and dry (highest about 13') DESCRIPTION: The reservoir is a perfect training ground for urban climbers. Built in ages past to train the first scalers of Yosemite, it had one fatal flaw the plan held water. So the founders of the project in their infinite wisdom called it a reservoir and sold water to the communities nearby. Only in recent days has the technology been developed to bring back the glory of its original plan. The reservoir A. The main traverses B. Outside sloping hands to develop (~. Pull attraction, up bar 24 climbs; balance TIPS: The Reservoir is unique in its climbing opportunities. An excellent exercise is to attempt a complete traverse of the entire inner wall. One also can do dynos. Climb up the inside, back down the outside and repeat at a quick pace. Stick to the grass for safety. HAZARDS: Stray NAMES: Thanks to local artists have been painted on. named "Pain Train," first by my student Tom . HISTORY: See INSPIRATION: Blessed be the Lord, my rock, Who trains my hands for war, And my fingers for battle; Psalm 44:1 features: countless climbs practice these and sensitivity and tennis balls the names of the climbs The complete traverse is done on August 11, 1989 DESCRIPTION. without 25 CRICKRAT BRIDGE (CARNEGIE) DESCRIPTION: A one time railroad bridge, now a haven for crickrats and climbers providing several different levels of difficulty and a variance of heights (25' to 35'). Many of the climbs are deceptive with avalanching exits or as Jean Paul Sarte once wrote "No Exit." There are clean faces and dirty ones. The dirtier faces are virgin, but climbing to pick cherries carries a strong warning here. If a hold looks like it will break off, it will, as I have learned. Most of the climbs here are solid and the successful rathead is rewarded with a beautiful choice of views: either a smelly dump or a mill. The variety of faces to climb provide many choices for workouts . 26 CRICKRAT BRIDGE (cont . ) DIRECTIONS: Exit the Parkway West at Carnegie ( if headed towards the airport, take the Carnegie Exit and bear towards the right at the "Y" ). Turn right at the first traffic light . Stay on this road as it crosses a bridge . The road will then bear right. You will pass a few mills and cross railroad tracks . The bridge is at the end of the road to your left . EQUIPMENT: *Standard *Chalk SET UP: There is a good variety anchors for top roping. up is very easy. TIPS: The rock surfaces presented here are cut stone. Holds are possible in the decayed mortar between the stones and in the holes created by the quarrying of the stone. To make some climbs harder, you can ignore these . HAZARDS: Loose, NAMES: "Acid Rock " - south face of south pillar "No Exit" - climbs with concrete finishes "Urban Blight" - namesake for this book INSPIRATION: What shall be use to Where we used to talk? How shall I fill the How shall I complete Pink top roping weathered 27 item .s of natural and artificial Getting to the top for set stone fill the empty spaces, final places, the wall? Floyd "Empty Spaces" HEIDELBERG RAILROAD BRIDGE (HEIDELBERG) HEIDELBERG RAILROAD BRIDGE (cont . ) NAMES: Pictured '' Hydraulics Statistics." INSPIRATION : You and I, an open book face. Manual,'' on the On right the left is is "Basic we wi ll cl imb so high . STYX Superstars D:EJO£ ROIDER MOHf STUDYCC!fiSE LESSON nl() REN6:1'18ER WHEN 80ULDERING DR LE.Al) CLI'181NGA#llDYOU TAKEA FALL ON AN lN Cf..lNED PLANE: DON'T- L£T YOUR FEET RUB TH£ STONE S~F"AC£ . RE~ DOR l'IOTTO: FLESH HEALS, SHOES DON· T. - JOE- ~-L...---L._~-+---- DESCRIPTION: Bring your kids or friends with you on this climb . You can park your car at the self-serve ca .r wash and let them clean it, while you climb these 30' climbs. The climbs are greasy, so take advantage of th e top roping. If a train comes on the lower tracks, you'll have a captive audience. DIRECTIONS: Exit the Parkway at Carnegie (if heading toward the airport, bear left afte r taking the exit toward Heidelberg) . Turn left at stop sign onto Washington Avenue. At the fifth traffic signs:11, turn left onto Cochran Road. About 100 yards along, you 'll drive under it. EQUIPMENT: *Standard top roping *Chalk - a must SET UP: I suggest TIPS: Keep chalk using the I I YOU'LL GET IT N~XT TINE 1'1JSTER. SHOE-5 items I" 1000/1;. s mall t rees on top. handy. 28 - - ·- 29 THE zoo (GREENTREE) THE zoo HISTORY: The cement wall was formed when borough workers tried to pour a sidewalk along the top of the hill. Lacking the wood to make a proper form and not wishing to travel the great distance of two miles to get it, they poured three truckloads of cement overboard, then gave up. INSPIRATION: It is good to good thing . be Gal. DESCRIPTION: A poured concrete wall I spotted while cruising for climbs. Some of my students proceeded to boulder it and found tjlemselves halfway up and a little apprehensive about continuing. With my help they finished the climb and I decided to include it in the book because of its uniqueness. DIRECTIONS: Exit the Greentree. buildings Parkway West at Greentree. The wall is behind the on the right. EQUIPMENT: *Standard top SET UP: Anchor off HAZARDS: Cement may pull NAMES: Pi ctured roping the fence - "Only free first Bear toward block of item .s running along the top. in places. in America" t 30 (cont.) 31 zealously 4: 18 affected always in a WEISH WALL (SOUTH SIDE) DESCRIPTION: DIRECTIONS: LONG WALL (SOUTH SIDE) short wall 20' high, but made from smoother, smaller stones than the majority of walls around Pittsburgh . The wall can be top roped from the trees. It can also be bouldered . DESCRIPTION: A long stone wall supporting about 20' high. Makes for long DIRECTIONS: Take East Carson Street thru South Side. Go east to 28th street and turn right. The wall begins at the end of the road and continues to the far left. EQUIPMENT: •standard *Chalk SET UP: Anchor NAMES: Pictured INSPIRATION: Endurance A Coming from East Carson Street make a right onto South 12th Street. Follow the road across the bridge and make a right onto Welsh. The wall is on the left hand side of Welsh. EQUIPMENT: *Standard *Chalk top roping SET UP: Top roping NAMES! Painted INSPIRATION: The city . . . a natu .ral territory with histrionic gifts. Jonathan Raban by using on the 32 top off roping railings - "David is trees for anchors. wall. for the . Lee Rock" patience concentrated. Carlyle items the items psychopath 33 railroad traverse. tracks TROLLEY STATION (STATION SQUARE) SELDOM SEEN PARK (SOUTH HILLS) DESCRIPTION: You can't get more public than climbing here . we climbed on a quiet, sunny afternoon and met interesting folk - like the well bred English lady. You may enjoy climbing here, if you don't mind the scrutiny. When station Square was refurbished they cleaned the stone on all the walls, which makes this a very clean climb . DIRECTIONS: Located Square. EQUIPMENT: •standard top roping items *Forget the chalk bag unless for defacing the property. on Carson SET UP: Use the boulder HAZARDS: Spectators - ignore jeering crows. INSPIRATION: Courage Street across from you want to anchors above the set up for top the walls which makes for a faster is the 34 the cackles fear of being Horace Smith and thought kudos DESCRIPTION: Seldom Seen Park is not really a park. To wit, there are no signs pointing it out . There are no picnic tables, swing sets, or any other of the u3ual park accouterments. What is worth seeing.is a railroad bridge, which twice crosses a meandering stream. The bridge has four pillars that are 25' to 3 o' high. The faces are a bit greasy, but are filled with holds. The wooded surroundings give the urban climber the feeling of being far away from the city. The small 15' outcropping can be used for dynos. DIRECTIONS: Take the Route 51 exit from the Parkway East (279), toward Uniontown. Turn left at the first traffic light onto Woodruff . Make the first right into a gravel parking lot. The small outcropping is on your left as you head toward the building and the bridge is behind the building . EQUIPMENT: •Standard *Chalk SET UP: Plenty Station pay fines roping exit. or from the top roping items a coward. of anchors 35 on the bridge railings. SELDOMSEEN PARK (cont.) NAMES: Be creative CREDIT: Special thanks INSPIRATION: Where's that to PILLARS (DOWNTOWN} Bill. confounded bridge? Led Zeppelin DESCRIPTION: c.HAU: JOE ROI DER STUDENTS LIS£ 11Y SPECIAL CHALK I.JP l"IETHOt) OEVE\.OPED BY l'1E. JOE ROI.DER t FOR THREE REASONS: 1. TO PREV£NT BEING ENCUKBEREDBY DANGLINGCHALK BAGS. DIRECTIONS: The pillars from station the stadium. are located at Station Square, across Square, and at the North Shore near EQUIPMENT: Not needed. Most people SET UP: None HAZARDS: If traversing over the river, result in contact with underwater 2 .TO RIO CIUASELVES OF WASTEDTlt1E AND ENERGYWHEN HAVING TO TAKE A "'DIP". ~ .TO GlVE T~ LA.DIES A VIEW OF OUR 9EHINDS,UNOBSTRUCTED BY A CHALK BAG. I 36 The three pillars were here before the age of Fort ' Pitt. The city founders tried to build bridges on them (such as the Manchester Bridge) but they would mysteriously disappear during the night. The untapped power of these pillars inspired A.C. Clark's 2001: A Space Odyssey. Urban Climbers enjoy climbing and traversing the pillars. I lost several students who were doing laps around one of these and vanished, never t o be found again. 37 traverse here. popping debris. off may SIX WEEKS AFTER PVERDOSING ON ROlDER'S MAGIC FORMULAS AND EXERCISES . PILLARS (cont.) NAMES: Pictu .red - "You are HISTORY: The old Manchester Bridge pier at the stadium was originally meant to be cleaned up, serving as an observation platform built for viewing the city and rivers. That project has some anti-climbing rebels think these pillars are ugly and should be torn down. I, among others see the .m as monuments of beauty and majesty, pillars of the clilllbing community, put there to inspire all city dwellers to strive to new heights and to reach for their dreams . INSPIRATION: Cities are built here X" n•- -., I HAVE TO GET ROIDER'S rHAGfc INJECTJ=ON VITAMINS TOO. DAYLATER CASPER FL IES TO YOSEMITE TO iEST HIS SKILLS .-=:::::::::::;uw. THATJ - -- - to kill people. Charles Bukowski NOW FOR THE REAL TEST . BACK TO THE URBAN JUNGLE WHERE IT ALL BEGAN. WAS EASY • . ft r· SOCIETY I / IS .,, ,i'.'.j n«JSE WHO ONCE MOCKE D CASPER NOi,/ BOW THE REPORTERS ASK QUESTIONS AND CHEER HIM' GRACIOUSLY ANSWERS THEM. iE:JR HEADS IN HUMILITY Ill, 1:-~1:.·S \ \~\~~ . f' • 38 \ '-" \ E. wHAi ARE '{01.l~ ' l'\'i GOA'- 1-\.. of ,1--1iG~'(. PLANS 1-101>1? - A ol"ir'-1:.'E. A uf-9AN 9's,;: • €.~ '?' (c l'\9s •"' 5i:,.,• c1-i • ·1-'- 9 e. ,~1:.\'I r:;/:l~ \ ' AND CASPER \S ,0 ~ 1--1 r8 sO 1:-; ,:O /-------,:~I:. ~ \ ,:'i • ,~€. .__ COMPLETE . 0 39 ~ THREE BRIDGES (DOWNTOWN) ARMSTRONGTUNNEL (DOWNTOWN) DESCRIPTION: These bridges span the Allegheny River. All of the pillars have some fun climbing. You can anchor off the railing, but if you climb all the way up, you'll take a lead fall if you happen to pop off. DIRECTIONS: The bridges are Streets, spanning EQUIPMENT: *Standard *Chalk SET UP: top on Sixth, seventh, the Allegheny River. roping Pictured INSPIRATION: Pittsburgh - "The Thrill - some place 40 Ninth My suggestion for city employees wishing to get a little exercise is to walk uptown to the Duquesne side of the Armstrong Tunnel (even the name evokes visions of climbing) for a quick workout. Those who do will be pleasantly surprised by the range of difficulty of these walls. The climbs range from 10' to 25'. There are no crowds, but plenty of attention and easy access. What more could you ask for? DIRECTIONS: Drive or walk a few blocks up Forbes Avenue from the j ailhouse downtown. The tunnel is on the right. Parking is available on the left on weekends only. EQUIPMENT: *No chalk *Standard SET UP: use TIPS: Avoid HAZARDS: Your be layers co-eds. items Anchor off railing. If set up off the top of the will be shorter. NAMES: and DESCRIPTION: you're railing of it special All" going to the so your lead top, fall the (too messy) top roping items railing using for the top cement attention 41 roping ledges anchors. for holds. may wander along with the ARMSTRONGTUNNEL (cont.) the EAST STREET FUN SQUARES (EAST STREET, PITTSBURGH) NAMES: "Tunnel Vision" - between on the right side two book ended INSPIRATION: For in the day of trouble He will keep me safe in His dwelling He will hide me in the shelter of His tabernacle And set me high upon a rock. Psalm 27:5 walls ---- ~ 'ATCH our FOR THESE YUPPIES - The ~ub-c1;11~ure of the climbing world. can be easily 1dent1f1ed by any of the following: These No one knows why Penn D.O.T. would construct such an odd shaped wall, but urban climbers a~e grateful. This is one of the better walls of this kind. Climbing is made possible by jamming the hands and feet into cracks used to connect the stones. From a distance it appears rather easy, but is capable of changing your mind once you try it. Other climbs like this can be found thruout the city. DIRECTIONS: Take East Street to the north. the left about 1/2 mile out. EQUIPMENT: Not needed SET UP: Not necessary TIPS: Try a traverse workout. folks 1. Expensive cars with lots of statement stickers. 2. Flashy equipment in the latest style . (Whole rack of cams). 3. Dialogue similar to, "These shoes cost me $145". 4. Alcohol consumed before climbing . 5. Total lack of style, ethics, or originality. 6. Large masses of people all looking pretty much the same. There are several ways to quickly rid the area of them. Try one the following statements; directing towards their leader. 1. "There's a party at climbing area". 2. "You'll need more chalk if you want to climb this one". 3 . "Yeah, we were climbing here last week. Saw someone take a screamer. Don't know if he lived or not. Probably better if he died though". 42 DESCRIPTION: of 43 the whole Fun Squares length for are on a hardman EAST STREET FUN SQUARES (cont.) WALL OF FAME (OAKLAND) HAZARDS: The surface area cuts a climber's NAMES: "Postulates" HISTORY: Constructed by Penn D.O . T. as Street Expressway around 1988. INSPIRATION: The world is like a board with holes in it, square men have got into the round holes. Sydney Smith of the fingers cracks . is sh a rp part WHEREASLYCRA HELPS CLIMBERS TO STAND OUT IN NATURE; and easily the East of and the DESCRIPTION: The wall of Fame was found by Francis Mulcahy while walking to graduate school. He reported it to me and I investiga t ed an d found a semi - circular wall support i ng a hillside just off campus in Oakland. Bouldering is the most popular activity here, with top roping and traversing coming in second and third. Climbing is convenient and includes the fringe benefits of co-eds and plenty of bars within walking distance . Heights range from 6' to 3 o' . The area is also lighted at night for midnight bandits. This is an excellent training ground for beginners. While experienced climbers will also enjoy working out here. DIRECTIONS: Take the Oakland Exit from the Parkway onto Forbes Avenue. From Forbes, turn left onto Bigelow Boulevard just before the Cathedral of Learning . Continue straight ahead for two blocks. The wall is found straight ahead on the left . IN URBANCLIMBING rT · s USED AS CAMOUFLAGE. 44 45 WALL OF FAME (cont.) EQUIPMENT: *Standard top roping *No chalk - residents you chalking up their C.M.U. BRIDGE (OAKLAND) items in the view. area won't want to see SET UP: If on. TIPS: Traversing the wall is a good workout, especially if you race each other or try to beat your previous time. The large cracks between the stones should not be used as holds. Try to climb on the stone only. Of course I'm not telling you how to climb. If you use the cracks, keep in mind that snakes and other things with sharp teeth may be living there. Please don't feed the animals. HAZARDS: Although the neighbors don't seem to mind climb on the wall, it's a good idea to noise down. The rock itself is very spots. It is not unusual for a slab of pull free so a rope is recommended if above a safe height. NAMES: "The Flying Circus" "Touch the Spider" INSPIRATION: With your help I can advance against With my God I can scale a wall. Psalm 18:29 top roping, 46 there are (the numerous traverse), trees to anchor if people keep the flaky in rock to climbing and pictured - a troop DESCRIPTION: c.M.U. Bridge is similar to its neighbor, the Schenley Park Bridge, though it is slightly shorter and less intimidating. Climbing is available on the sides and faces of the bridge supports. Climbing on the face beneath the br.idge c<:n b~ done during rainy weather. The area 1.s sem1.-pr1 vate, although evidence of partying can be found. DIRECTIONS: Take Forbes Avenue from downtown to Oakland, to the University of Pittsburgh. Continue going straight until passing the Ca~negie ~useum on your right. c.M.U. Bridge is the first bridge you cross after the light. It is located near an Exxon Station. EQUIPMENT: *Standard xChalk top roping 47 items C.M.U. BRIDGE {cont.) SCHENLEY PARK BRIDGE {OAKLAND) SET UP: Top ropers TIPS: About halfway up, t he stone sticks out in a slight overhang. This is the hardest part. Mantling techniques have been the most successful way of overcoming the problem. HAZARDS: Because the bridge is i n Oakla nd, you'll have to put up with usual abuse from students and weirdos. Once a young scholar, trying to decorate his dorm room, started pulling on the webbing I was belaying from. Being mor e than halfway up the wall, this was slightly upsetting to me. Watch your set up if you're on belay. NAMES: Pictured INSPIRATION: To the ~mpossible can anchor - " No Brain, timid and because it Scott to the railings. No Gain" hesitating seems so. everything is DESCRIPTION: 48 The Schenley Park Bridge is not your average supports are topped by a bridge . The 4 o' stone very difficult overhanging exit . The stone is mostly clean, with a few greasy spots. Beneath the bridge it ' s dirty, but the faces and structure can be climbed in rainy weather . The builders of the bridge knew it would be difficult to surmount the overhang and extended it along the length of the wall, thereby presenting the climber with practice overhangs which can be easily reached. Once you have conquered the overhang, you'll be able to exit from the higher climbs {about 40'). 49 SCHENLEY PARK BRIDGE (cont.) PANTHER HOLLOW (OAKLAND) DIRECTIONS: Take Forbes Avenue from downtown to Oakland. Continue thru the University of Pittsburgh. Make a right at the traffic light after passing the large parking lot on your right. The parking lot is catty-corner to the Cathedral of Learning. The Carnegie Library will be on your left. You'll be driving across the bridge about 100 yards form the traffic light. EQUIPMENT: *Standard *Chalk SET The railings anchors. UP: top roping along TIPS: See DESCRIPTION. HAZARDS: The structure NAMES: Pictured INSPIRATION: Courage consists but in seeing it beneath - "Technical 50 items the the top prove bridge Ecstasy to is be very bombproof rusty. " not in blindly overlooking and conquering it. Jean Paul Richter danger, DESCRIPTION: The bridge spans Panther Hollow. The stone pillars stand on either end supporting the bridge providing 40' to 45' high faces to climb. Easy access to the base is provided by a set of steps and path across the street from the Conservatory. Access to the Troll Bridge is provided by the same. DIRECTIONS: Take a right off of Forbes Avenue in Oakland after the large parking lot (on the right) and Cathedral (on the left). Proceed across the Schenley Park Bridge and turn right after the Conservatory. The bridge is straight ahead. EQUIPMENT: *Standard SET UP: Use the HAZARDS: Broken strewn NAMES: "Daydream" INSPIRATION: The goal of all inanimate objects and ultimately to defeat him. Russell Baker top roping bomb proof glass about items railing and general the earth. (pillar 51 closest along sidewalks. garbage to the humankind has Conservatory). is to resist man TROLL BRIDGE (OAKLAND) RAILROAD BRIDGE (EAST LIBERTY) DESCRIPTION : Tranqu i l and unusual climbing can be found in my~tical Panther Hollow. Consisting of a 15' high bridge made of gnarled lava rock. Its unique surface is fun to climb by itself or as a warm up to t he Panther Hollow Bridge just up the hill. DIRECTIONS: See Panther EQUIPMENT: Not needed. SET UP: None TIPS: Free HAZARDS: Trolls, elves, the whole bit. NAMES: " Following Shelob " - Starting and proceeding upwards as far to the outer face and exiting HISTORY: Constructed by trolls in a time forgotten, would charge two gold pieces to anyone wishing cross . These guardians have since fled Oakland are now working in food management somewhere Ohio. INSPIRATION: style The Dwarf the giant's Hollow - have Bridge fun. witches, DIRECTIONS. Try getting fairies horizontal ( from Shadys i de) , beneath the bridge as possible; shifting over the top. sees farther than the giant, shoulders to mount on. Anonymous 52 . who to and in DESCRIPTION: Thanks to a local railroad cop my students feared for their lives when first climbing here. They were asked, "You don't know where you are, do you boys? Gangs up here will kill you ." Enough s~id; I was intrigued and went with them the next time. Contacting the locals proved to be less of a danger than expected and I never had a more appreciative and spellbound audience. This area is one of the top five climbs in this book . Superior height (80'), solid, clean stone, open book faces, arch 7s and a wide selection of difficult faces make this area a must. DIRECTIONS: Take Fifth Avenue towards East Liberty . At the intersection of Fifth and Penn Avenues, count the traffic light as light #1. After light #3 , g o straight, and look to the right. You will soon s ee the bridge . It's near a car wash if you're looking for landmarks. when he ha s 53 RAILROAD BRIDGE (cont.) STATE POLICE RAILROAD BRIDGE (EAST LIBERTY) EQUIPMENT: *Standard *Chalk SET UP: Top roping possibilities abound here. Man made anchors include a bombproof railing. Get to the top by following the path under the arch. Cross the road where the path ends at the billboard. the path continues on the .other side. Due to he overgrowth of poison ivy, the alternate route is up the back of the billboard . Be careful the wood is NOT bombproof. TIPS: Use of the form. corners for HAZARDS: Poison - found on the NAMES: Two of my favorite climbs, named after broken gum ball machines thrown from the top and found in a heap, are "Soda Jerk" and "Blim Blam." Both are found on the pillar to the left of the parking area. Blim Blam faces the street and Soda Jerk is on the other side. The climb on the pillar to the left of Soda Jerk is called "Rust Never Sleeps." HISTORY: Built by chief engineer William H. Brown in 1903. This gentleman, who is the patriarch of urban climbing, built some of the best scalable stone faces in Allegheny County. INSPIRATION: I must not fear. Fear the little-death that I will face my fear. me and thru me. And turn the inner eye to has gone there will remain. Frank top ivy roping 54 items handholds path is to the considered bad top. is the mind-killer . Fear is brings total obliteration. I will permit it to pass over when it has gone past I will see its path. Where the fear be nothing. Only I will Herbert DESCRIPTION: railroad bridge has climbs ranging from 12' to I use the shorter climbs for a warm-up and Any face you try is then hit the big pillars. topped by two 6 11 overhangs , making for tough exit. Even though the bridge is close to the police barracks and firing range, the woods are thick enough around the bridge to keep you concealed from any gun sights. This 60' Dune . DIRECTIONS: Follow the DIRECTIONS to the East Liberty Railroad Bridge and continue down the road to the next intersection. The state police headquarters will be on your left. on the right where you turn is a sign on which is painted "VA MEDICAL CENTER." This road passes beneath the bridge. Parking at the police headquarters is your best bet. EQUIPMENT: *Standar *Chalk d top roping 55 items PITTSBURGH ZOO (HIGHLAND PARK) STATE POLICE RAILROAD BRIDGE (cont .) SET UP : Railings and top roping. TIPS: Start NAMES: Pictured HISTORY: INSPIRATION: tre es low and work your - " The Killer Built in 1903 chief engineer, designing and structures . Victory provide belongs n£ plenty of anchors for DESCRIPTION: A 100' long by 5'-20' high retaining wall between Hill Road and the Pittsburgh Zoo Parking lot. Main interests are traversing and dynos. DIRECTIONS: Follow "Pittsburgh located just off Park Bridge. EQUIPMENT: •standard SET UP: Top rope TIPS: Bring HAZARDS: Escaped NAMES: Use zoo animal INSPIRATION: Clearly, then, the city is not it is a human zoo. Desmond Morr is way up. Bees " by Columbia Contracting Co . whose H. Brown, was famous for building functional, yet climbable W. to the most Napoleon persevering. top off the Zoo" signs. Butler Street roping iron The parking lot is near the Highland items railing. family. JOE R01D£R HOl'IE STUDY COURSE LESSON THREE Carnivores names REt'IEMBER:SOMETIMES CLIMBERS WITH LESS I1'1POSINGFIGURES THAN MINE, NEED PERMISSION TO CLIMB ON PUBLIC ANOPRIVATE PROPERTY. OUR MOTTO: REMEMBER JF THEY OUTLAWURBANCLIMBING. ONLYOUTLA WS WILL CLIMB. -JOE- 56 57 to create your own. a concrete jungle; HOMESTEADWALL (HOMESTEAD) DESCRIPTION: HOMESTEADWALL (cont.) The wall runs on both sides of the road and has a . wide variety of heights to choose from ( 6' -35') The stone is very clean and not as greasy as common railroad stone. I suggest that while climbing here you refrain from using the "fraggle holes" (drainage slits) to make the climbs more difficult. DIRECTIONS: Take 376 east to the Homestead Exit. Stay on this road approximately two miles. The walls are along this road as it goes down a long hill before the High Level Bridge. I park at Hardees on the left. EQUIPMENT: *Standard *Chalk SET UP: Trees grow the length of the whole wall and provide anchors for any climb chosen. There is plenty of sidewalk room for the belayer. TIPS: Refrain is near. from HAZARDS: Honking nervous horns can disposition. top roping NAMES: "Pre-amp" - pictured INSPIRATION: The weal th of the rich is their They imagine it an unsealable wall. Proverbs 18:11 J \ \ items throwing loose be a rock hazard down when traffic if you' re of a POPPING OFF URBAN STYLE 58 59 fortified city. HIGH LEVEL BRIDGE {HOMESTEAD) DESCRIPTION: A 25' to 30' wall supporting A fine climb after warming Wall . DIRECTIONS: Take the Homestead on this road until EQUIPMENT: *Standard *Chalk SET UP: Anchor NAMES: Pictured INSPIRATION: Bigger Bigger God is That I top off the High Level Bridge. up at the Homestead Exit off the Parkway East. you get to the bridge. roping items Stay Due to the nature following section The user of this and responsibilities gaining permission railing - "Fast Start" than all my problems, than all my fears , bigger than all the mountains, can or cannot see. Gordon Jenson 60 61 of the climbs in the this caution is re~terated: guide assumes all risks of use. Climb only after from owners. CARNEGIE PARK BARBECUE (CARNEGIE) CARNEGIE PARK BARBEC UE (CARNEGIE) TIPS: Handholds are thin, If it rains, climb HAZARDS: Only NAMES: Pictured INSPIRATION: It is necessary to surpass one's occupat~on ought to last as long Queen Christina the barbs mostly inside. thrown "Amazing smearing with the f e et. self always; as life. this by picnickers. Journey". AND lN THE WORLDOF BUSINESS TODAY, SUN-TAO C011PANY S· STOCK ROSE '10 POI NTS WHEN .......__, RUl'10RSOF A HOSTILE TAKEOVER REACHEDTHE MARKET. , THE STOCK LATER DROPPEP 50 POI NTS WH EN IT WAS FOUND THAT IT WAsN·T A TAKE OVER AT ALL, BUT· RATHER A GROUP OF URBAN CLI MBERS ASSAULTI NG THE CDMPANYS' DOWNTOWN OFFICE BUILDING. 1 DESCRIPTION: DIRECTIONS: Remember the ants and bees who could ruin a picnic with their pesty behavior? Enter the vulgarian climbers who descend upon Carnegie Park in pursuit of picnic shelters and left over food. I certainly caused a stir when I began climbing this shelter and admit to enjoying sandbagging some of the picnicing men, who were so eager to prove themselves to their wives and girlfriends by attempting to copy my climbs. Fry your fingers and roast your wienies next time you' re outside on a picnic. Exit Parkway West at Carnegie (if headed toward the Airport, take the Carnegie exit and bear toward Heidelberg at the "Y") . Turn left at the first traffic light. Look for Carnegie Park on th e right after crossing a short bridge . EQUIPMENT: Chalk (optional) greasy. - the SET UP: None - bouldering 62 only . stone is very c l ean and not 't>USHJ ESS T ODAY CHANNEL 5 21 NEWS 63 NURSEFINDERS (GREENTREE) (Climb only after gaining NURSEFINDERS (cont.) permission from owners.) NAMES: Pictured INSPIRATION: Architecture: - "Vertical Smile" the art of how to waste Philip Johnson The New York Times December 27, 1964 space THEJOE ROIDER HOME STUDY COURSE LESSON FOUR KIO - HERE' S MY DEFINITION OF GOOD CLIMBING: GOOD CLIMBING IS REACHING THE NEXT HOLD•. • f DESCRIPTION: DIRECTIONS: EQUIPMENT: Easy climbing stone put on as an afterthought to attract urban climbing business to the area. Rather tall and narrow with about eight to ten different faces around the building. My students love to climb here knowing that any injuries sustained while climbing can quickly be taken care of by the attractive nurses within the building. Who says you can't find nurses these days? Take the Greentree toward Greentree. right. It's just you against Exit It's off the Parkway West. Bear the first building on the the AAAAAAGH ! ! -( / ( ( rocks. I r ~ / SET UP: Not applicable TIPS: Avoid peering into the Climbing on the backside to the discerning public. HAZARDS: The stone is bombproof, but I have experienced some flaking on the outer surf ace. Since you' re bouldering, we recommend that you don't use excessive force on the more questionable holds. 64 windows on your way up. makes you less noticeable ANO NOT DYING . . IF YOU FAIL. I REMEHBER OUR MOTTO: "EA~ OF CLI MBING" <EtJN. Q-IALLENGING, §AFE > -JOE:- 65 RAMMMETALS INC. (BRIDGEVILLE) GALLERIA (SOUTH HILLS) [Climb [Climb only after gaining permission have tall after gaining permission from owners.] from owners.) DESCRIPTION: Seems like it could Lloyd Wright. Rather stone with good holds. DIRECTIONS: Exit. Turn right after the Take 79 to Bridgeville exit, then turn left onto Washington Avenue. Look for the building there (within two blocks on the right). EQUIPMENT: Not needed SET UP: Not necessary INSPIRATION: His wrath are broken been designed but narrow. is poured out like up by Him. Nahum 1:6 66 only fire, and by Frank Common cut the rocks DESCRIPTION: Climbers who find it hard to get away from the ones at home please take notice; Urban Blight may have a solution. Nestled within the wilds of the South Hills is the Galleria where you can drop off your advantage of some "born to shop 11 mate and take unique climbing opportunities. The Galleria features thousands of exquisite pieces of rock all arranged in eye pleasing and finger busting patterns. The selections will challenge you while your partner enjoys the great indoors. Finish your day's enjoyment with margaritas at Chi Chi's just up the road. DIRECTIONS: towards South Hills Village. Take Route 19 south At the bottom of the hill look to the right and turn right after the Amoco Station. Make the first right turn entering the shopping center. EQUIPMENT: *Climbing SET UP: Not required. Shoes All 67 of the climbs are boulderable. CHRIST METHODIST CHURCH (SOUTH HILLS) GALLERIA (cont . ) TIPS: The Galleria is composed of cut stone - most of which is placed horizontally. The hand and footholds are as solid as Sears (oops, sorry) and for the most part are free from smearing and crack problems. This is an excellent area to practice your edging skills. HAZARDS: My first time out on the Galleria brought me to the attention of the security department. Instead of chasing me off , the gentleman officer just watched, most likely because I was the first person to ever try such a stunt. Be aware that you could be fined for trespassing if you don 't obtain permission from the management first. Tell them your climbing is good publicity for the store. NAMES: The climb featured in the photo is "Five Finger Discount." The rest of the climbing area is unnamed and as far as I know, unclimbed. INSPIRATION: I have with I still climbed the highest mountain, you . . . haven't found what I'm looking U2 The Joshua Tree 68 only to [Climb only from owners. after J be for. DESCRIPTION: Do you believe in a higher being? Many did when they saw my students and I assau~ting ~he ~ast ~ace of Christ Methodist Church. This climb is unique by the pattern o.f the concrete and the risk of climbing on God's property. Not an area for an all day workout, but well worth a stopover. Come on, go meet your maker. DIRECTIONS: Take west Liberty Avenue to the south Hills Village. Before the Village, turn left at the light as if going to Village Square Mall. Stay left and continue a short way. The church will be on the right. EQUIPMENT: Not needed SET UP: Not necessary HAZARDS: Climb locals NAMES: "Stairway before the Sunday church goers and the other who run rather conservative in these parts. to Heaven" 69 - pictured CHRIST METHODIST CHURCH (cont.) INSPIRATION: GINNY LOU (SOUTH HILLS) And it is written See , I lay in Zion a stone that causes men to stumble and a rock that makes them fall and the one who trusts in him will never b e put to shame. Romans 9:33 LET'S GO! I ' VE GOT A SIXTY FOOT CRACK FOR YOU TO WOR K ON. FOR STARTERS IT HAS A ROOF WITH A BIG CRANK. [Climb only after gaining permission from owners.) ~ --- GREAT! DESCRIPTION: Ginny who? Ginny Lou, of course, is the matron of urban climbers worldwide. Gin's spot has 25' of cut stone on its four sides. With open books and impossible roofs for the more daring. No longer serving dinner or anything else for that matter, they closed after a diner spotted a rathead climber) emerging from the kitchen. DIRECTIONS: Take Route 51 south on the left after right. EQUIPMENT: Not needed SET UP: None HAZARDS: Stay NAMES: "No Win situation" INSPIRATION: You can Restaurant. DAG NABBIT GET OFF MY ROOF! clear of any electrical get anything 71 tubes. Pizza. Gin's Park will be on the wires. - pictured Arlo 70 past the Danny's Guthrie you want at Alice's J.C . PENNEY (CENTURY III MALL) [Climb only after gaining permission THE DANGERSOF FOOLISHNESS A CLIMBING I NTERLUDE from owners.] LEMMINGUSHUMANAACTIVA DESCRIPTION: J.C. Pe nn ey is a monstrous wall of decent height. Climbing is made poss i ble by the protruding bricks which follow a pattern thruout the wall . Large and risky are two words that describe J .c. Penney ' s best (see HAZARDS). DIRECTIONS: J.C . Penney is located at Century III Mall. If you don ' t know how to get there, take Route 51 South past the tubes for about 15 minutes. SET UP: Not necessary TIPS: Try the HAZARDS: Don't you'll exits HISTORY: Built when the mall was constructed, the future of prosperity lies in recognizing the J. c. Penney's potential of its walls for commercial use to urban climbers . INSPIRATION: Doubt bookends and roofs . climb higher than you're also have to climb back from the top of the roof. when you will, but Boree never accustomed to since down. There are no yourself. LEMMINGUSHUMANAMORBIDA 72 73 VALUE CITY (NORTH HILLS) [ Climb only after gaining permission DESCRIPTION: A large wall consisting height of 15'. DIRECTIONS: Located Road. EQUIPMENT: Not needed SET UP: Not necessary NAMES: Make up your INSPIRATION: Fools at rush the end MITCHELL'S BAR/LOUNGE (NORTH HILLS) of of [ Climb cut Northway stone to Mall own. in where angels Pape 74 fear to tread. on a maximum only after gaining permission from owners .) DESCRIPTION: Before stopping in for that cold one, try a workout on this 20' wall . Made from cut stone, the surface vrovides small holds that can be a challenge. Try a traverse if you really want a workout. DIRECTIONS: Take McKnight Road to Pittsburgh. As you descend the hill from the Westview Exit, Mitchell's Bar/Lounge will be on the right, just before Old Brother Dan's Revival Center. EQUIPMENT: Not needed SET UP: Not necessary TIPS: Stay sober until temptation is right HISTORY: Changes names restaurant/bar. INSPIRATION: Everybody McKnight must 75 finished in your constantly, get stoned. Bob Dylan with face. climbing. but remains The a ROHRICH CADILLAC (NORTH HILLS} TRINITY CATHEDRAL (DOWNTOWN,PITTSBURGH} ( Climb [Climb DESCRIPTION: only after gaining permission Trinity cathedral is of rough cut stone to 30' to 60' (towers). usually becomes dead good place to climb Also recommended as a from owners. Not necessary TIPS: Some holds are buckets. Select NAMES: Make up your HISTORY: Goes way back INSPIRATION: And as He went out of the temple One of His disciples saith unto Him, Master, see what manner of stones And what buildings are here. Mark 13:1 thin while others offer as your abilities allow. 76 the plaque on the gaining permission from owners. ) bomber DESCRIPTION: Part of the structure of a cadillac dealership consisting of semi-smooth stone that is placed in an irregular pattern, thus allowing some small edges for climbing. Don't let the dealers talk you into anything. DIRECTIONS : Take right EQUIPMENT: None needed SET UP: Not necessary HAZARDS: Dealers with INSPIRATION: Nothing is own. - read after ) a large building constructed a height that varies between As downtown Pittsburgh on the weekends, this is a if you want to avoid crowds. lunch hour diversion. SET UP: only wall. Route 19 West to Wexford. Rohrich across from the post office. fancy to suits be feared Bacon 77 and pinky but fear . rings. Cadillac is [Climb only RESTAURANT (SHARPSBURG) gaining permission after from owners.) DESCRIPTION: A large wall of small pieces of cut stone. Larger than it is high, it can be scaled to a height of about 20'. Good Italian food inside in case you work up an appetite. DIRECTIONS: Take exit SET UP: Not necessary NAMES: Pictured INSPIRATION: Stolen Route 28 North to and take Main Street Sharpsburg. Get off to the 1800 block. the "Toe Jam" sweets are best. Colley 78 Cibber 79 DICKSON QUARRY (SEWICKLEY) DESCRIPTION: (!_ _, __ One of my favorite places. eye view of the area. '2. _ __.--'---- -------~ 4 3 DICKSON QUARRY (cont.) Here is a rough 1) This is a short climb with a big roof. A great place to build your upper body strength and practice general overhang techniques. Also a great shelter from sudden spring showers. 2) The first face seen as you make your approach. It's the best and cleanest face. There is 25' of good sandstone topped by 5' of flakier rock. It's approximately 40' wide. One of Pittsburgh's most challenging climbs. 80 Approximately outcrop with 35' high. A great beginners' many small overhangs and cracks. 4) A nice 5) A bouldering 6) A 100' long traversing face, with 15' high of shaky flake. solid sandstone topped by 20' There is a tough boulder and an overhang on the right. boulder to scale face or traverse. approximately 50' long . DIRECTIONS: Take I-79 North to the Sewickley Exit. Take Ohio River Blvd. towards Sewickley (West). Make a right before the Sewickley County Inn . Turn left on Beaver. Go approximately two blocks and make a right onto Nevin. When Nevin forks, take the middle road up the hill. Go past Farren Street. Park at the U turn . Take the path up the hill thru the woods. EQUIPMENT: *Standard top *Chalk *Chest harness roping SET UP: Use trees top TIPS: 'i'he farther rock gets. to HAZARDS: Poison climbs. and NAMES: Talk INSPIRATION: Nothing is impossible; there are ways which lead to everything; and if we had sufficient will we should always have sufficient means. La Rochefoucauld birds- s 3) for for ivy to the old 81 items practicing roping the right loose overhangs anchors. you rock go, at the the dirtier top of timers. the some BOULDERPARK (SEWICKLEY) BOULDER-PARK (cont.) DESCRIPTION: A great place to boulder with problems to work on. There climbs which can be top roped. DIRECTIONS: Take North 65 into Sewickley. Turn right onto Boundary Street, just before the Sewickley County Inn. Turn left on Beaver Street, then right at the traffic light on Broad Street. At the end of Broad Street, turn right on Hopskin. Take the first left (sharp) into the cemetery. Take the next left and park at the turn-around circle. Proceed over the hill on foot. The ridge of stone is on the other side of the valley. EQUIPMENT: *Top roping :.<Chalk *Helmet SET UP: Anchor off items are all are kinds also HAZARDS: If you wander too far along the ridge, some watchdogs guarding their owner's is plenty of loose rock. NAMES: Talk INSPIRATION: Above all, young traveller, take my advice, and never, never, be such a fool as to go up a mountain, a tower, or a steeple. I have tried it. Men still ascend eminences, even to this day, and descending, say they have been delighted. But it is a lie. They have been miserable the whole day. Keep you down; and have breakfast while the asinine hunters after the picturesque go braying up the hill. William Makepiece Thackeray with the old of short some 20' optional trees 82 83 you may find house . There timers. NICEVIEW BALL FIELD (NORTH SIDE) NICEVIEW BALL FIELD (cont.) HAZARDS: Loose rock; glass NAMES: Pictured Inspiration: Listen to me, you who pursue righteousness Who seek the Lord Look to the Rock from which you were hewn And to the quarry from which you were dug. Isaiah 51:l "No Joy on lower levels in Mudville" THE JOE ROI DER HOl'IE STUDY COURSE LESSON FIVE CLIMBING KNOWS NO SOCIO-€CONOMIC BOUNDARIES. (l'IY RELATI VES. IN POLAND, GLUE STICKY RUBBER ONTO THEIR TENNIS 50 HERE·s A FEW TIPS ON HOW SHOES.) TO TURN YOUR RUSTY OLD OIL BURNERS INTO HOMEMADECLil'1BING GEAR. REl'IEJ1B€R OUR MOTTO; CLIMBS AR€ MADE, NOT BOUGHT. -JOE- / (( DESCRIPTION: If you're as good at softball or hardball as some of my students are, you'll want to bring climbing shoes here. After striking out at the plate or in the bleachers, try some climbs in right field. Or better yet, get up there and steal a home run from someone. The center and left fields are too flaky high to be much fun. There are 8 o' of 15' climbable face in right field. Most are beginner's climbs, but some challenging moves can be found. PARKING BRAKE CABLE - CAN BE USED TO WIRE HARDWARE. SUCH AS WHEEL CHOCKS. AND TUBES CUT FROM PIPES. SNOWBRUSH - FOR CLEANING THE CLIMBING SURFACE. RABBIT JACK - FRIEND. DIRECTIONS: EQUIPMENT: Take Federal (which runs across Bridge to Allegheny Center Mall and West North Avenue and up the hill) blocks from North Avenue make the Henderson. Go 1/4 mile until Apt." sign on your left. Turn left the end. Turn left downhill to ball *Bouldering *Top roping *Bats, balls SET UP: Top roping TIPS: Climbing and traversing available and gloves off is the 6th Street continue across . A couple of a right onto "Castle Luxury there and go to field. SEAT BELTS - 2 INCH WEBBING. TIRES - USE FOR FIXED PROTECTION AND COVERING SHARP ROCKS AT THE BASE OF THE CLIMB. SEAT BELT ENO PLATE - BELAY PLATE. BATTERY CABLES - FUSED WIRE NUTS. mostly GENERAL NUTS AND BOLTS - GENERAL NUTS AND BOLTS. trees possible even during weekend games. [The above 84 not intended 85 for actual use] JIM'S JIM'S QUARRY (NORTH SIDE) DESCRIPTION: QUARRY (cont.) DIRECTIONS: Exit Beaver Aven ue in the North side up the ramp to Rt . 19. Bear right onto the ramp which is 19 North (toward Wexford) . Contin ue straight between two cemeteries . Af t er a couple of blocks, turn right onto Oanberry as 19 turns left. Make a left onto Crispen. The climbs are on the way down the hill on the left . EQUIPMENT: *Standard top *Chalk *Hand Broom SET UP: Top roping off HAZARDS: Loose and broken NAMES: "Carol's INSPIRATION : I waited patiently for the Lord; And He brought me up out of the pit of destruction; Out of the miry clay; And He set my feet upon a rock making my footsteps firm. Psalm 40:2 rock roping tree s Crossing Jim B. saw me sneaking into an abandoned building at work. Thinking he ' d find me sleeping, he went in later and fou nd me doing pull ups on an old pipe. We got into a discussion on climbing, and he said he climbed a t an old quarry when he was a kid. This piqued my interest and he showed me directions in the dirt atop an old chemical waste drum. The directions were good and so are the climbs . The ones that come into immediate view appear promising, but prove to be flaky disappointments. Around the bend are a couple of 15' pieces that provided a good workout. Across the ball field is another set of climbs with varying degrees of difficulty. My favorite is on the other side of the building. This one has a nice crack and overhang that are real fun to work on (overhangs being a rarity in urban climbing). 86 items 87 glass " - behind bleachers SLAB (NORTH SIDE) SLAB (cont . ) NAMES: "Magic Puppet" - direct INSPIRATION: were I to await be finished. route perfection, my book would Tai T'ung 13th Century ne v er China TODAY' S SHOW 15 BEING BROADCAS T LIVE FROM THE TOP OF BRADDOCKQUARRY. STOMPING GROUNDS OF MR. JOSEPH ROIDER. I ASKED MR. ROIDER TO APPEAR ON MY SHOW ALONG WITH OTHER NECNAZI HATE GROUPS. BUT HE REPL IE D THAT HE HAD BETTER THINGS TO DO THAN GAB WI TH WIMPY TALK SHOW HOSTS WHO THINK A CARABINER I S SOMETHING YOU HUNT IN CANADA. SO WE CAME TO ~ IM. ~ ' ...- ~ ~~ MR. ROIDER. ISN'T IT TRUE THAT YOUR CLIMBING SCHOOL IS A FRONT FOR A HATE MONGERING ANTI-ETHNIC ORGANIZATION? I JUST STARTED TEACHING THESE NEW GUYS TO RAPPEL . I HAD NO IDEA THEY WERE INVOLVED IN SUCH THINGS AND I THANK YOU FOR BRINGIN E IT TO MY ATTENTION. DESCRIPTION: Protruding from the most unlikely location atop the great North Side is an outcropping of natural stone; approximately 30' high. Rock of this nature is usually rotten, but somehow the slab has escaped decay . Better hurry, you may only have 500 years or so before it's gone or less if Penndot decides to expand the East Street Expressway again. DIRECTIONS: From North Avenue in the North Side, go past Allegheny General Hospital (on the left). Continue straight, cross Madison Avenue, and proceed straight on Spring Garden Road . At the stop sign, turn left. Go up the hill on Goerhing Street. The slab is on the left just after the stone wall. EQUIPMENT: *Standard *Chalk SET UP: ~nchor top off roping trees 88 at LOOK WHO'S HERE. I f I WISH 1 HAD A CHAIR TO HIT HIM WITH. /. , SINCE I ' M ON THE BOOB TUBE! !! I ' D LIKE TO DECLARE PUBLICLY THAT IF YOU ARE OF A DIFFERENT ETHNIC BACKGROUNDTHAN ME•••. items top. 89 ) I LOVE YOU ! ! ! I IRON CITY HANGOVER (WEST END OVERLOOK) IRON CITY HANGOVER(cont.) TIPS : Catch the fireworks down - it's a trip. HAZARDS: Glass NAMES: Pictured INSPIRATION: You can't and loose - "I.e. keep on the 4th while hanging upside rock Pumper" an Iron Man down! Iron City Brewing Co. DEATH OF A TRADITIONALIST -·l1~fili._ i · V:::;:; ~ .::;~ =J DESCRIPTION: No lengthy Pittsburgh formations. DIRECTIONS: From the West End Circle (from the river side), stay right thru the underpass and go up Steuben Street. At the third light, turn right onto Chartiers. Continue until the next intersection and make a right on Lorenz. Continue to the top of the hill, turn right and bear left. EQUIPMENT: *Top roping and a long runner or hardware *A shoulder harness is helpful in keeping your out of the leaves and glass. *A broom or brush is needed to clean glass holds and webbing contact areas. SET UP: Anchor climbs, but to practice The average on railing 90 one of the few places in overhangs on natural rock height is 8'. or place protection hair from in cracks. 91 e i>\RE. STATE 8UiL.OiNe> ROUTE 51 OUTCROPPING (cont.) ROUTE 51 OUTCROPPING (WEST END) DESCRIPTION: A sandstone outcropping about 40' high. The face is flaky in some parts. This climb has several nice cracks and an overhang to work on. DIRECTIONS: Exit the Parkway West to Route 51 ( towards Uniontown). Make the first right at the Landmark Sign Co. Park in the dirt lot on the right. Walk towards the Parkway along the road. After crossing a short bridge, go up thru the woods on the left to the railroad tracks. Go left down the tracks approximately 35 yards. The face is 20' up the hill on your right. EQUIPMENT: *Top roping *Helmets SET UP: Top rope from trees, or place below the shale layer. TIPS: Bring a brush HAZARDS: Poison ivy, loose NAMES: "The Potato Mantles" CREDIT: My friend INSPIRATION: On a day for living a man will not die; likewise on a day for dying no head will Gambian proverb Rick That - let's 92 clean this dirty near the Ate speeding Pittsburgh" locomotives. and "Praying F. items hardware rocks, top rock. 93 escape. COLLIER QUARRY (cont.) COLLIER QUARRY (COLLIER TOWNSHIP) DESCRIPTION: The quarry was discovered by a friend of mine while his wife and he walked the railroad tracks from Carnegie. The bouldering is great and the faces to either side of the main quarry can be top roped. These faces are 25' to 30' high and topped by very loose shale. When you continue along the dirt road, you'll find two pools of water. Each pool is backed by nice climbs. The second pool is against the stone and barefoot climbing is possible. If you free climb you can pop off into the pond. Across the railroad tracks and up the road a little bit is another pond with some boulders around it. DIRECTIONS: Take the Carnegie Exit off I-79 and bear towards Oakdale. Turn left onto the dirt road, just past and across from Collier Stone Co. 94 EQUIPMENT: •standard items. *Chalk •Helmets top roping SET UP: As stated in the description, the bouldering is great but if you wish to top rope the higher climbs along the ridge, you can hang dog to place the anchor for the top rope below the fragile shale. HAZARDS: Poison NAMES: My favorite bouldering name is painted on) . this and a nice climb HISTORY: This piece operations INSPIRATION: Self-conquest ivy and loose items and/or lead climbing stone problem is called "Son of Sam" is as well. "Sam" adjacent of land was abandoned as a quarry were moved across the street. is 95 the greatest Plato of victories. (the to when SANKEYQUARRY (cont. SANKEYQUARRY (SOUTH SIDE) DESCRIPTION: The outcropping here is two tiered with the upper tier having the better climbs. The faces are 20 to 25' high. The lower tier is behind the tennis courts. To get to the upper tier, take the path that begins in the far left corner of the left court. The climbs here are dirty and have loose stone on some faces, but I had a lot of fun here along with a good work out . Several proved harder than they looked. DIRECTIONS: Take East Carson to the South Side. South 21s t Street. Leave your car at the end of the street. The climbs behind and above the tennis courts. EQUIPMENT: *Standard *Chalk SET UP: We top top roped roping off 96 the stone, dirt, of the faces HAZARDS: Loose couple here. NAMES: Pictured Alkers" (not the and poison but there's INSPIRATION: At the sound of the horseman and bowman every flees; They go into the thickets and climb among the rocks. Jeremiah 4:29 "Three Dollars on its left. Turn onto the park at are located items trees ) best). 97 a ivy. still Head" I cleaned a cherry stone and "st. Bon city WESTINGHOUSEBRIDGE CRAGS (BRADDOCK) QUARRYPARK (BRADDOCK/EASTPITTSBURGH) DESCRIPTION: I spotted this outcropping from Westinghouse Bridge. Upon investigation, it seemed to be climbable by lead climbing techniques or by hang dogging and placing protection to top rope from. When I came back some months later with the proper equipment and some students, we were stopped by a railroad employee. I explained that all we needed to do was cross his bridge to get to the base of the hill from which the outcropping projected. He told us it was okay to climb the rock, but we couldn't cross his bridge. He went on to tell us of a great place to climb down the road. Following his directions we came to a very crumbly shale outcropping, which you won't find in this book. DIRECTIONS: Follow directions to Quarry Park (Braddock) then continue down into the valley to the railroad tracks. Where the railroad bridges cross the river, you can see the outcropping halfway up the hill to the left. EQUIPMENT: *Standard top *Lead climbing *Chalk roping gear SET UP: See DESCRIPTION TIPS : 'I'ry accessing INSPIRATION: One never rises so high as when one does know where one is going. Cromwell the area items DESCRIPTION: A good place to warm up for the larger Braddock Quarry mostly short climbs, which can be bouldered or top roped. The faces are 25' high, but several are pretty dirty and grown over. We cleared a couple places to climb and if everyone cleans it up a bit, each successive assault will yield more climbs . DIRECTIONS: Take 376 East (Parkway East) to exit 10 onto Route 30 East. Stay on 30 East for about four miles, until reaching the Westinghouse Bridge. Just before the bridge, turn right at the A-Plus Mini Market. Make the first left onto Grandview, then the first right onto Bessemer. From Bessemer make a left onto south Main Street. The Park is on your left as you go down the hill. EQUIPMENT: *Standard *Chalk SET UP: Trees HAZARDS: Foul NAMES: Pictured INSPIRATION: It's and from above. not roping provide balls items anchors into the along left the field top. stands - "Crackerjack" all it, 98 top it just mind over don't matter. ozz 99 matter, if you mind BRADDOCKQUARRY (EAST PITTSBURGH) DESCRIPTION: This area offers some of the best variety of climbable rock formations in the city. The climbs here have a wide variety of mantles, ceilings and degrees of inclination . The quarry has 50' high sandstone, with a shale layer on top. The shale ranges from l' to 20' in thickness. Lead climbing is the best approach here, as it removes the hazard of contacting loose shale. Top roping is possible in the sections where the shale is thin. In most of these places the absence of a bombproof anchor near the edge can be overcome by running an extra rope (or two for added safety) from the nearest trees. In other places there are cracks in the solid stone, where protection can be placed. Never place protection in the fragile shale or in stone that sounds hollow when rapped upon . Hang dogging is another way to set up for top roping. A climber can rap down from the top 100 BRADDOCKQUARRY (cont.) DESCRIPTION: (cont . ) and place bolts below the access to the top is the the face. A denser path right. DIRECTIONS: Take 376 East (Parkway East) to Exit 10 onto 30 4 miles, until you reach East all the way, about the Westinghouse Bridge. Just before the Westinghouse Bridge, turn right at the A-Plus Mini Market. Make the first left onto Grandview, then the first right onto Bessemer. Continue straight thru the traffic light. Make a right at the dead end. Turn left at the end of this short street. Go across the bridge. The rocks will be on your immediate right. EQUIPMENT: *Standard *Or lead *Helmets *Chalk SET UP: See DESCRIPTION TIPS: ?he use of lead number of climbs HAZARDS: Mutant Poison Ivy! This place is a sanctuary for the noxious stuff. I recommend climbing in the late winter and fall. Even in its dormant state, the ivy is potent . shale layer. The easiest path to the left side of is also found to the far top roping items climbing equipment climbing available. equipment maximizes the Loose rock. In addition to the shale, the sandstone contains plenty of virgin stone, which threatens the climber's and belayer's life and limb. Helmets and common rock sense are highly recommended . NAMES: Pictured HISTORY: By all appearances this area was once later became a coal and cinder storage l>oro. CREDIT: Special thanks from Beaverton, our attention. "Montezuma's Revenge" a quarry bin for to Tom M. - wrote to me all Oregon to bring this great 101 and the the way area to ABOUT THE AUTHOR BRADDOCK QUARRY(cont.) INSPIRATION: Well I'm hangin' on to a solid rock Made before the foundation of the world And I won't let go and I can't go, Won't let go and I can't let go, Won't let go and I can't let go, no more! Bob Dylan, "So lid Rock" LITTLE IS KNOWNABOUT THE LIFE OF DR. JOSEPH ROIDER. LEGENDS SAY HE WAS BORN IN 1946 JUST AFTER AMERICA' S VICTORY IN WORLDWAR II ANO THE BEGINNING OF THE NUCLEAR AGE. ACADEMIC RECORDS INDICATE THAT HE HOLDS DEGREES FROM THE UNIVERSITY OF PITTSBURGH. ST . VINCENT COLLEGE, AND THE SCHOOL OF HARDKNOX. OTHER SOURCES HAVE INDICATED BRIEF TENURES AS A ' STRENGTH COACH, FOOTBALL PLAYER, AND BODY BUILDER. AFTER A PURELY POLITICAL SCANDAL ----=--INVOLVING DRUG TESTING IN WHICH HE WAS DISMISSED FROM ANY FURTHER INVOLVEMENT WITH ' THOSE DAMN BUREAUCRATS' , JOE WENT ON TD FIND THE ' ROIDER SCHOOL OF URBAN ADVENTURE: A SELF AVOWEDRECLUSE. JOE PREFERS TO SPEAK THROUGH HIS CLIMBING AND THIS BOOK WHICH HARKS HIS FIRST EFFORT IN WRITING. I f 1.. 102 I .I i ,~ INDEX AND RATINGS BLIGHT - Something that impairs climbers on the law of gravity. BOMBER - Grand, big, absolute . BUILDERING - A specialized climbing man-made structures. or destroys. As in As in Bucket . " branch "Bomber of climbing the that effect of focuses on ALL RATINGS IN THIS BOOK ARE BASED ON MY EXPERIENCES AND ANY DISPUTES SHOULD BE BROUGHT TO MY ATTENTION. EACH CLIMB IS RATED ACCORDING TO THE BEST ROUTE AS IT APPEARS ON SITE, REGARDLESS OF THE INDIVIDUAL CLIMBS ARE WHETHER IT I S A CLIMB OR TRAVERSE. RATED ACCORDING TO THEIR DIFFICULTY AND OVERALL APPEAL AS FOLLOWS: DIFFICULTY 1-EASY 2-LESS EASY 3-MODERATELY DIFFICULT 4-DIFFICULT 5-VERY DIFFICULT CHIPPING - Creating a hold by chipping away at the rock. Frowned upon by most climbers. It is my opinion that chippers should be buried alive beneath six tons of stone with their tools and be made to chip their way to freedom. DYNO(S) - The repetition in an effort to gain dynamic movement. FAIRY P~S of climbing strength and - Pittsburghese, for movements proficiency. Lycra on the same route Any extended, a damp or oily RATREAD - A climbing ROTTEN - Climbing PAGE R.R. BRIDGE AUTO BRIDGE 5-BEST 4-BETTER 2 4 ASPINWALL R.R. BRIDGE 3-GOOD 6 SHARPSBURG RESTAURANT 2-GOOD 78 NORTH HILLS NORTH PARK VALUE CITY MITCHELL'S CADILLAC 2-GOOD 2-GOOD 2-GOOD 2-GOOD 8 74 75 77 SEWICKLEY QUARRY BOULDER PARK 5 -BEST 4-GOOD 80 82 NORTH SIDE LONG WALL R.R. BRIDGE N.S. WALL WEST PARK NICEVIEW QUARRY SLAB 3-GOOD 3-BETTER 2-BETTER 3-GOOD 3-GOOD 4-GOOD 4-GOOD 10 12 14 15 84 freak. surface A hold that is loose or disintegrating. which offers minimum security for of leg sewing a a brief TREMBLE POWDER - Chalk. URBAN - Relating BEST HARMARVILLE The surfaces. SEWING MACHINE LEG - The involuntary muscular response muscles causing an up and down movement similar to machine; caused by exhaustion or nervous tension . TIME BOMB moment. BETTER RATING FRO~ DOOR - Occurs when you lose all contact with the climbing surface on one side of your body, while maintaining contact with the other producing the door swinging effect. Also referred to as the back door, screen door or barn door. to GOOD NORTH clothing. FRAGGLE ROLE - Refers to drainage holes in man-made walls. use of fraggle holes is frowned upon by advanced climbers. GREASE - Refers APPEAL to, characteristic 104 of, or constituting a city. 105 86 88 WEST AREA WEST END MCKEES ROCKS CORAOPOLIS CRAFTON NAME EAST RATING PAGE AREA NAME RATING PAGE SIGN THEM UP BRIDGE BEGINNER' S CIRCLE IRON CITY RT. 51 3 - BETTER 5 - BETTER 2 - GOOD 5 - BEST 5-BETTER 16 17 19 90 92 OAKLAND WALL OF FAME CMU BRIDGE SCHENLEY BRIDGE PANTHER BRIDGE TROLL BRIDGE 2 - GOOD 4 - BETTER 5-BETTER 4 - BETTER 1- BETTER N. 51 R . R. BRIDGE 45 47 49 51 52 3-BETTER 20 EAST LIBERTY BLUE BRIDGE 1 - BETTER 22 R.R. BRIDGE STATE POLICE 5 - BEST 5-BEST 53 55 RESERVOIR 4 - BEST 24 HIGHLAND PARK PGH. 2 - GOOD 57 BRADDOCK WESTINGHOUSE CRAGS QUARRY PARK QUARRY UNRATED 3-GOOD 5 - BEST 98 99 100 HOMESTEAD WALL HIGH LEVEL BRIDGE 3 - BEST 4 - BETTER 58 60 4-BETTER 4-BETTER 4 - BETTER 5 - BETTER 2 - GOOD 76 37 40 41 43 zoo SOUTH I AREA CARNEGIE HEIDELBERG COLLIER NAME RATING PAGE BBQ CRICKRAT 5 - GOOD 3- BETTER 62 26 R.R. 3 - GOOD 28 4-BETTER 94 BRIDGE QUARRY BRIDGEVILLE RAMMMETALS 2 - GOOD 66 GREENTREE THE ZOO NURSEFINDERS 2 - GOOD 2 - GOOD 30 64 SELDOM SEEN GALLERIA CHURCH GINNY LOU J.C . PENNEY 3 - GOOD 2 - GOOD 1- BETTER 2 - GOOD 3 - BEST 35 67 69 71 72 WELSH WALL LONG WALL STATION SQUARE SANKEY QUARRY 3- GOOD 2- GOOD 3 -GOOD 4 - GOOD 32 33 34 SOUTH HILLS SOUTH SIDE DOWNTOWN DOWNTOWN CATHEDRAL PILLARS 3 BRIDGES ARMSTRONG EAST STREET 96 107