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URBANBLIGHT
Copyright
No part
1990 by Joseph
Roider
of this
book may be reproduced
without
the consent
of:
Joe Roider
Post Off i ce Box 44 205
Pitts burgh, PA 15205
Handmade and printed
Show your support
by refr a ining
by unemployed
climbers.
f r om making copies
for your friends.
JUST IN CASE THAT' S NOT ENOUGH
,l.. {j_..
cPv
WARNING !
LIGHT SBN
SITIVBPAPER
Any Attempt
to Copy th is
DocUllent,
May result
in Severe Daaa ge t o
c opy Machine and Operat or
APR I 3 J9g4
Penna. Oepl
f HE CARNEGIE UBRAl:Y OF FlrTS ~URGH
/qi,'/ ,Z
.P'f )-.
p[p
/'lt:J ,<.
EEAQ ~
BEFORE
1QY CLIMB
The climbs
prese .nted in this
book are potentially
dangerous
and
should
not be undertaken
by the
inexperienced
starter.
I
strongly
recommend that you find someone who already
knows how to
climb and ask that
person
to teach
you.
The descriptions
and
tips
herein
are not meant to be substitutes
for experience
or
proper
instruction.
By visiting
any major
climbing
area
or
outdoor
supply
store,
you can meet other
climbers,
most of whom
should prove to be friendly
with plenty
of good advice.
FUrthermore,
it is wrong to construe
that permission
to
been granted
to the general
climbing
community.
Many
privately
owned or accessed
thru private
land .
I also
recommend that
one gains permission
for access
from the
private
property
prior
to climbing.
A good idea is
low-profile
and to act responsibly
while using
these
~ecreation.
climb has
areas
are
strongly
owner of
to keep a
areas
for
DISCLAIMEROF LIABILITY
The author
or authors
of Urban Blight,
its
distributors
and
agents,
shall
not be held liable
for any consequential
damages to
persons
or property
or for the injury
or death
of any climber
using this book . The user assumes all responsibilities
and risks
of use.
No instruction
as to how to climb safely
is implied
or
given
.herein.
nr.
DEDICATEDTO THE SPIRIT OF CREATIVE CLIMBING
FOREWORD
This book grew slowly
from my frustrations
in finding
time to
drive
to any of the better
climbing
areas
near Pittsburgh.
After
a little
searching
I was able to locate
enough areas
within
the
city
to compile
this
guide
which makes it unnecessary
to leave
the Metro to enjoy
climbing.
The numerous
hills,
valleys,
and
rivers
of the Metro provide
a variety
of walls,
bridges,
and
abandoned
quarries
which will
challenge
any urban climber
(it is
a fact that
Pittsburgh
is the #1 city of bridges
in the U.S.A.).
This
geography
makes it unique
in the climbing
world
and as
sociologists
predicted
the spread
of "Urban Blight " is escalating
in Pittsburgh.
The evolution
of climbing
has now made urban
climbing
a valid
endeavor,
made easier
thru the use of guidebooks
like this .
This book gives
the climb's
locations
and brief
descriptions
of
each climb.
These climbs
range
from the very easy to the very
difficult
to accommodate
the
range
of different
climber's
abilities
.
Most of the
climbs
will
be challenging
and good
training
for the novice,
while others
will prove to be beneficial
for the advanced
climber.
The easier
climbs quickly
convert
into
~orkouts
by doing dynos,
or become more difficult
by eliminating
a hold or two.
Use your imagination
to enhance
the plea .sure or
difficulty
of any climb listed.
My aim is to provide
you with the information
necessary
to find
and enjoy
these
climbs
as much as I have enjoyed
making
this
book.
Any noteworthy
additions
or comments you send me will
be
most appreciated.
Have a good time out there!
Remember my motto:
It ain't
fun if it
don't
push you to
the limit.
Joe
TABLE OF CONTENTS
WALLS AND BRIDGES •••••••••••••••••••••••••
BUILDINGS • . ...
...•............•...
l
. ......
NATURAL ROCK •• •• •••••••••••••••••••••••••
ROCK TALK •••••••
INDEX . ...•.•..•
79
• ••••••••..•••••.•••••••
. .. . ••.
. ...
...
61
l 04
......
.. ...
105
HARMARVILLERAILROAD BRIDGE
(HARMARVILLE)
HARMARVILLERAILROAD BRIDGE (cont.)
SET UP:
DESCRIPTION:
One of the best and most challenging
climbs
I have
to offer
- t his
bridg e is supported
by stone
pillars
approximat e ly 70' to BO' high.
The pillars
are topped
by 40' of steel
work for
structure
climbing.
This bridge
is very well maintained
and
therefore
clean and sturdy.
The Harmarville
Railroad
Bridge spans the Allegheny
River.
It's
an ideal
spot
for a picnic
and or
fishing.
Included
is a beautiful
view of the river
and nearby
lock.
It's
a great
place
to spend the
day climbing .
DIRECTIONS:
Take Rt. 28N from the North Side to the Harmarville
Exit (#11).
Bear towards
New Ke.nsington
(a left
at
the main intersection).
The bridge
spans the road
a short
distance
ahead.
EQUIPMENT:
*Standard
*Chalk
top
roping
2
If you wish to top
are suggested
for
anchors .
rope these pillars,
two methods
ge tting
to the most promising
1)
Go to the top.
Walk along until
you're
above
the pillar
you wish to climb,
and then climb
do wn the 40' ladder
and anchor
off one of the
beams.
The problem
with this
method is that
the tracks
are regularly
patrolled
by workers
and guards.
Therefore,
if you have ( in your
excitement
upon
seeing
this
fine
test
of
climbing
abilities)
failed
to get the proper
permission
for climbing,
you might be in a bit
of a fix.
2)
This method is trickier
.
Climb the hill
until
you are
at the
point
where
the
structure
starts.
You can then climb
along
the lowest
bea~ until
you are
at
the
pillar
of your
choice.
There is a metal cable
running
waist
high parallel
to the beam.
For safety
you can
biner
on t o the cable.
Use a second biner
on a
3' webbing to reach across
the vertical
beams
so that
you won't
have to be off belay
when
stepping
around tbe .m. Use the cable only for a
belay.
It has some slack
to it and will
bend
out if leaned upon, throwing
your balance
off.
HAZARDS:
None with
NAMES:
Pictured-"No
INSPIRATION :
Impossible
dictionary
exception
Quarter
to the
"
is a word only
of fools.
Napoleon
items
3
height.
to
be
found
in
the
HARMARVILLEAUTO BRIDGE
(HARMARVILLE)
HARMARVILLEAUTO BRIDGE (cont.)
INSPIRATION:
Whatsoever
thy
thy might .
hand
findeth
Ecclesiastes
-··~·
to
do , do
i t with
9:10
,,..,
11HENYOU SAID LE"l·s
9El
BACK 10 TRUE NATURE
I TH()UGttT YOU tE:ANT
l'IOT~ NATURE.MO
T YOUROWN
.
...
(
/
l
I
,
\
("'
DESCRIPTION:
This is the second bridge
I found on the way to th e
Harmarville
Railroad
Bridge.
The bridge
ha s
struct ure climbing
and a 30' wall to climb.
It can
be used as a good warm-up
for the
larger
bridge
down the road.
DIRECTIONS:
Take 28N from the
North
Side
to the
Exit lll.
Turn right
along the river .
is the first
on the left.
EQUIPMENT:
• s tand ard
*Chalk
SET UP:
The railing
top
roping
l. /'.
r
~
Harmarville
The bridg e
items
i s a bombproof
anchor.
0£:f'!O!fSIB
ATJONOF A ~AYBACK
4
5
,.
fl
all
ASPINWALL RAILROAD BRIDGE (cont . )
ASPINWALL RAILROAD BRIDGE
(ASPINWALL}
DIRECTIONS:
Take 28N from North Side to the Aspinwall
Exit #6.
Keep left
onto Freeport
Road until
you hit Eastern.
The bridge
is across
the railroad
tracks
and up a
short
hill.
The bridge
crosses
the
river
and
becomes an inverted
"Y" . The branch
on your right
(as
you face
the
river)
has a wall
on private
property.
I recommend
cl il!lbing
the wall
on the
left
branch .
EQUIPMENT:
*Standard
*Chalk
top
roping
SET UP :
Top rope
from
fence
NAMES:
Pictured
INSPIRATION:
He who has not
misery
of it.
:
Bryce
items
or
on "How Goes It"
the
spirit
Voltaire
DESCRIPTION:
While
heading
to Harmarville,
I sighted
this
promising
bridge.
After
clil!lbing
a short
hill,
I
found some abandoned
tracks
leading
to the bridge.
Further
on I saw that a fence blocked
access
to the
river
crossing.
In front
of the fence
lay a rope
bag.
I thought
at first
that writing
this
book was
going
to pay off
early.
Then
I noticed
some
webbing attached
to the end of the fence.
Attached
to the webbing was a biner.
Attached
to the biner
was a rope.
Attached
to the
rope was Bryce,
a
clil!lber,
training
f or a trip
to the Gunks.
Bryce
said
the 20' wall was good for training
and that
nobody
ever
bothered
h_im while
climbing
there.
Across
the river
it's
a different
story.
The 20'
face has been used to practice
lead
clil!lbing
and
some hardware
was put in; consequently,
there
is a
big "NO TRESPASSING" sign painted
on it.
6
7
trees
of
his
age
has
all
the
NORTH PARK MEMORIAL
(NORTH HILLS)
NORTH PARK MEMORIAL (cont.)
EQUIPMENT:
Wear your
attention.
SET UP:
None.
TIPS :
Respect
shoes.
Leave
Bouldering
the
DESCRIPTION:
Does running
around
North Park Lake make you feel
as if your life
is just
an endless
circle?
Do you
feel like John McEnroe in wanting to scream after
a
few rounds
of tennis
with your partner?
Do the
words
"spawning
salmon"
remind
you of your
last
swim at the pool?
Perhaps
you should
reconsider
how you spend your leisure
time and take up urban
climbing
instead.
Bouldering:
Up,
infinite
selection
some
only.
flora.
down,
2)
Dynos:
Up and down,
3)
Races:
Start
on opposite
to slap the top.
on the
and
memorial:
all
around,
an
up and down
sides,
be
the
first
NAMES:
"I Shall
HISTORY:
See plaque
INSPIRATION:
The world
is dying
of machinery;
that
is the
greatest
disease,
that
is
the
plague
that
will
sweep away and destroy
civilization;
man will have
to rise
against
it sooner or later .
George Moore
Return"
(general
dyno).
on wall.
This
object
is
located
where
you can
receive
adequate
attention
from the
public
to whom you
should
immediately
give a copy of "Urban Blight"
as
explanation
for your seemingly
odd behavior.
Have
fun in the great
white north.
Take McKnight Road, north to the entrance
of North
Park,
which is indicated
by a sign
(right
turn).
Follow this
access
road to the stop sign,
then go
straight.
You are
now on Ingomar
Road.
Stay
straight
until
the first
red light .
Look left
at
this
intersection
to see the memorial.
8
should
attract
bag in the car.
possibilities
can be enjoyed
Begin by enjoying
the pastoral
and sensual
pleasure
of the North Park Memorial,
a convex oddity
that
is
perfect
for a beginner
or any climber
looking
for a
practice
area.
DIRECTIONS:
Lycra
chalk
neighboring
The following
1)
the
9
LONG WALL
(NORTH SIDE)
LONG WALL ( cont . )
TIPS:
As always,
be courteous
to the
locals.
HA.ZARDS:
Greasy
NAMES:
Pictured-"Raw
INSPIRATION:
Much has been done by both
public
and private
sectors
to improve Pittsburgh's
image, but nagging
pockets
of blight
continue
to detract
from the
overall
appearance
of the city .
Irvin
B. Foreman Jr.
Pittsburgh-Post
Gazette.
in spots
Sewage"
1- 28 - 89
tt!E .JCEROIQ£R tQ1E
STUDY
CQYRSE
I.ESSONDNE
I.ESSON ONE 6HOUU> BE PRACTI CEO
UNT11.. YOU CAN
PERFORf'I THE
TECHNJQUE9&ELONWJTHCIUT
LOOKING
AT fHt:DIAGRAl'IS.TO SUCCEEDWITH
HY COUlSE
Al.WAYS C011PLETE
LESSONS AND~
THE
SKIP A LESSON.
BY FOU..OWINGTHESE GUIDELINES
YOU SHOULD START• TO LOOK LJKE ME
IN ABOUTB WEEKS.
RENENBER
OUR.NOTTO:
CLIMBPEAN AND 0..EAN
-JOE-
DESCRIPTION:
The wall
begins
at a height
of
continues
for about 120'
along the
down to a height
of several
feet.
about
road,
25'
and
tapering
The wall continues
after
3 oo yards
fo .r another
60 ' .
The wall
is typical
large
block
and has a wide
sidewalk
running
underneath.
The wall's
length
makes it ideal
for free climb traver sing exercises.
DIRECTIONS:
From Allegheny
Center
North
and turn
right
Triangle
Tech Institute
Mall,
onto
sign.
EQUIPMENT:
*Top roping
*Chalk bag
it)
the
SET UP:
Top roping
(can't
available
10
hurt
take
Federal
Perryville
looks
and
you'll
Street
at
the
need
here.
11
cASP£RB.
PT. I
OUR FUTUREHERO ARRIVES AT HIS WORKPLA
UNAWAREOF THE ACTIVITY ABOVE.
A c:,r( JS HEARD IN THE URBANJUNGLE AS.
CASP£R
8.
NORTHSIDE RA.II.ROAD BRIDGE
(NORTHSIDE)
11ILQTOAST STRU66LE
•·
URBANBLIGHT
CLIMBERS ~ vs
s;lill.
to«JAI'·
~
s~c:.
C C
Cl C
DC
C C
C
0
C D
1::1 t\
FACEDWITH A TECHNICAL PROBLEl1, THE
THE ~L~NBERS PONDERTHE CONSEQUENCES
OF
ANCINYl10US
CLil1BER9 CONSlLT THE JOE.
~HE RAPIDi..Y DESCENDINGBOOK.
ROIDERBIBLE OF CLl11B1NG~
--:".H:':AND:-::'.'""'.11E:-:::-"':J:,,:O,-:Ec::S'"'·--:'.'"s~oo
...K-1
·ANONYl10USPARTNER.
DESCRIPTION:
The numerous pillars
supporting
the bridge have 30'
climbs on their
four faces.
There are seven faces
to climb on the road alone,
and even more on the
off-road
pillars.
DIRECTIONS:
Coming from downtown, take Beaver Avenue .
it under Ohio River Boulevard.
The bridge
over the road after a couple blocks.
EQUIPMENT:
*Standard
INSPIRATION:
Mona tried
to tell me,
To stay away from the train
line .
She said that all the railroad
men
Just drink your blood like wine.
Bob Dylan
top roping
Follow
passes
OASPER IS •THE RECEIVER OF SOME QUARK CONSCIOUSNESSIS REGAINED. THE BOOK IS
OF FATE.
UNKNOWINGLY
COLLECTEDWITH THE PAPERS.
CASPER"S DAY CONTINUES.---U:;;;;:~
[ii
D
D
"-
0
items
A GIFT FROM GOD IS SECRETLY PERUSED BY
THE ACCOUNTANT.
CASPERPREPARES FOR THE AT HOl'IE
lRAlNlNG . BY l'IAKING
- HIS FIRST SLOPPY
EXIT MOVE.
. AT LEAST HE
DIDN'T USE HIS
aic.
CH!lSS
0
ROIDER
SAYS 1-E CAN 11AKE1£ ..A C\..IMBING HAN
. ·1N 6' 'WEEKS. o'-,s 1· µ - TRY IT! i
, BOSS,
I QUIT.
BYE!
'--'30E
12
1
13 -------
- -,- ...
· ..;.T.;;;O_;_BE
__ c_o_N_T_I_N_u_ED
__ -1
l,
•
NORTHSIDE WALL
(NORTHSIDE)
DESCRIPTION:
A long wall that supports
homes on the North Side.
a maximum height of about
some of the more friendly
Large quarried
stones
to
Located directly
behind Allegheny
on the North Side (North Avenue).
EQUIPMENT:
*Standard
*Chalk
SET UP:
Not necessary
TIPS:
Try a complete
HAZARDS:
The walls are easily
seen from the
ready for comments from otherwise
who may glance out their
windows.
HISTORY:
As old as the
INSPIRATION:
Ho man can
evil.
roping
equipment
unless
top
General
Hospital
roping
traverse
North
be brave
DESCRIPTION:
Once again we are indebted
who placed this supporting
to get thru.
DIRECTIONS:
Look for
Aviary.
EQUIPMENT:
*Standard
SET UP:
Anchor off
HAZARDS:
Speeding
NAMES:
Pictured-"Brakeman"
HISTORY:
A great
INSPIRATION:
On what strange
15'.
DIRECTIONS:
top
WEST PARK
{NORTHSIDE)
hospita l , so get
bored patients
Side
who thinks
pain
the
the
railroad
in West Park
items
fence.
trains.
North
Side
greatest
Cicero-DeOfficiis
14
tracks
top roping
the
to the good old railroad
wall to allow the trains
15
fault
stuff
Eliza
line.
ambition
Cook
feeds!
near
the
SIGN THEM UP
(WEST END)
DESCRIPTION:
DIRECTIONS:
EQUIPMENT:
WEST END BRIDGE
This wall
looks
better
than
it
is but the only
safe place
to climb is behind
the billboard.
DO
NOT climb
any of the
other
parts
due to the
electrical
line tha t runs along the top.
This line
caused
the death
of a maintenance
man in 1987 so
stick
to climbing
behind the billboard.
This is a
good climb
for shy people
because
it
is usually
hidden by the sign.
Located
on East Carson Street
- it is across
the
street
from the closed
gas station
and between the
West End Circle
and the donut shop.
Easy access
to
the top rope set up is found on the Onala Building
parking
lot,
where steps lead to the top.
*Standard
top roping
items
*Chalk {gets greasy
behind
the
sign)
SET UP:
Top roping
trees
.
HAZARDS:
Wall gets
NAMES:
Changes
INSPIRATION:
Criteria
and safe.
anchors
flaky
3/4
to whatever
for
off
the
of the
' s on the
a good climb :
16
way up.
sign.
enjoyable,
challenging,
DESCRIPTION:
A 40' high pillar
with very scarce
holds
and a 5'
high concrete
bottom.
The stone
is composed
of
very hard granite
{tombstone-like)
which makes it
totally
smooth in some areas.
The drainage
pipe
can be of help if one wants to change the climb to
a structure.
You probably
will.
DIRECTIONS:
F'rom the West End Bridge make a left
off the North
Side end and a right
onto Beaver Avenue (which runs
Leside Route 65) . Make the first
left
and continue
to the end.
In other
words,
make a huge u-turn
back to the bridge .
Bear right
to reach
the
underside
of the
bridge
and park
in a vacant
lot-construction
site-parking
lot,
which is not in
present
use .
The pillar
is
reached
thru
a
construction
site
and over a fence where the barbed
wire
is
cut
out.
Be cautious
of
speeding
locomotives.
17
WEST ENO BRIDGE (cont.)
top
roping
BEGINNERS CIRCLE
(WEST ENO)
EQUIPMENT:
*Standard
SET UP:
Anchor
from the
HAZARDS:
Trains
and derelicks
NAMES:
"Blitzed",
INSPIRATION :
Prepare
for war with peace
in thy soul.
Be in
peace in pleasure
and pain,
in gain and in loss,
in
victory
or in the loss of a battle.
In this
peace
there
is no sin.
Bhagavad Gita 2:38
bridge
"What's
18
items
structure.
messing
with
pro.
Cooking?"
DESCRIPTION:
The stone
work on either
side
of this
railroad
tunnel
provides
a good confidence
builder
for any
beginner.
The walls are clean and 25' high.
DIRECTIONS:
The railroad
tunnel
is
at the West End Circle
EQUIPMENT:
•standard
SET UP:
Anchor
NAMES:
Pictured
INSPIRATION:
That in our proper motion we ascend
Up to our native
seat;
descent
and fall
us is adverse.
Milton Paradise
Lost
top
off
roping
the
items
trees
- "Tomb of the
19
connected
to the underpasses
on East Carson Street.
Unknown Climber"
to
NORTH 51 RAILROAD BRIDGE
(MCKEES ROCKS)
NORTH 51 RAILROAD BRI DGE (co nt . )
NAMES:
Pictu r ed - " Br i dg e of S i ghs "
INSPI RATI ON:
"What k ind o f ha nd is that,"
he s ai d "Cramp the n if
you want.
Make your self
into a cl aw . It wi l l do
yo u no good . 11
Erne st Hemi ng way
The Old Man a nd the Sea
Mf RQJpE:R SJUKNTF(NDSA HANDHOLD QNA. SUPPO§&QLV 91100TH
'
DESCRIPTION:
This bridge
is actually
the other
side of the North
Sine Railroad
Bridge.
It's
a nice
secluded
spot
along
the Ohio River
and a good place
to have a
picnic.
The climbing
is relatively
easy and the
pillar
by the river
is fun to traverse.
DIRECTIONS:
On west Carson
West End Circle
EQUIPMENT:
*Standard
*Chalk
*Bathing
top
Street;
heading
about
1. 3 miles
away from town .
roping
items
steel
work.
f rom
the
~\\~
-...a_~---J~lt--~-
suit
SET UP:
Anchor
off
the
TIPS:
Can be reached
HAZARDS:
There's
always
the chance
of hitting
submerged
in the river
if you solo
over
and pop off,
by boat
20
or other
means
of
flotation.
something
the water
21
BLUE BRIDGE
(CORAOPOLIS)
BLUE BRIDGE (cont.)
DESCRIPTION:
My students
climbed
here while
it was closed
for
repairs
and it
provided
an excellent
confidence
builder
and exercise
area .
Several
types
of
structure
climbs are represented:
ladders,
rivets,
and cables
- all of which can be used to develop
strength,
balance,
and to overcome squeamishness
of
heights.
All the metal is very clean and new.
DIRECTIONS:
This
bridge
over
the
Ohio River
connects
the
northern
end of Neville
Island
to Coraopolis
.
If
you exit I-79 at Coraopolis,
it is on your right
at
the beginning
of downtown Coraopolis
(off of N5l).
EQUIPMENT:
Movable
used.
TIPS:
The bridge
good.
protection
has
22
of carabiners
since
reopened
and webbing
but
may close
can
HAZARDS:
Falling
bridge.
NAME:
Pictured
INSPIRATION:
Terms
ill
defined,
and forms
misunderstood,
And customs,
when their
reasons
are unknown
Have stirred
up many zealous
souls
'
To fight
against
imaginary
giants.
Tupper Proverbial
Philosophy
into
the
- "Air
be
for
23
swift
Ohio River
or traffic
Dance"
on the
THE RESERVOIR
THE RESERVOIR (cont.)
(CRAFTON)
D.
Posts
and rings
for
coordination
and exercise
E.
Balance
beam
F.
Balance
posts
G.
The courts:
equipped
with
tennis
players,
(cute ones,
yeah),
and critics:
"I climbed
that
when I was five"
(doubtful)
"I hope
you fall
and get
killed"
(loving
mothers
with their
children)
"You do that
because
the devil
told
you to;
you're
being evil"
(small
children)
The Reservoir
provides
the urban
climber
with the
workout
needed
to scale
any wall.
A climber
can
work
on balance,
strength,
and endurance
in a
single
location.
JJ
DIRECTIONS:
Exit
the
Parkway
West at Carnegie.
Bear toward
Heidelberg.
Make the first
right.
Turn right
at
the stop sign.
This is Noblestown
Road.
Go up the
hill,
past
the
cemetery,
thru
the
traffic
light,
and around
a sharp
turn.
Turn left
on Durbin
at
the top of the hill.
Halfway
down the block,turn
right
onto the one lane road to the parking
lot.
EQUIPMENT:
*Chalk
fOISlt'IAll/
n
II U
SET UP:
None
(optional)
- all
climbs
- stone
are
is
very
boulderable
clean
and dry
(highest
about
13')
DESCRIPTION:
The reservoir
is
a perfect
training
ground
for
urban
climbers.
Built
in ages past
to train
the
first
scalers
of Yosemite,
it had one fatal
flaw the
plan
held
water.
So the
founders
of the
project
in
their
infinite
wisdom
called
it
a
reservoir
and sold water to the communities
nearby.
Only
in
recent
days
has
the
technology
been
developed
to bring
back the glory
of its
original
plan.
The reservoir
A.
The main
traverses
B.
Outside
sloping
hands to develop
(~.
Pull
attraction,
up bar
24
climbs;
balance
TIPS:
The
Reservoir
is
unique
in
its
climbing
opportunities.
An excellent
exercise
is to attempt
a complete
traverse
of the entire
inner
wall.
One
also can do dynos.
Climb up the inside,
back down
the outside
and repeat
at a quick
pace.
Stick
to
the grass
for safety.
HAZARDS:
Stray
NAMES:
Thanks
to local
artists
have been painted
on.
named "Pain
Train,"
first
by my student
Tom .
HISTORY:
See
INSPIRATION:
Blessed
be the Lord, my rock,
Who trains
my hands for war,
And my fingers
for battle;
Psalm 44:1
features:
countless
climbs
practice
these
and sensitivity
and
tennis
balls
the
names of the
climbs
The complete
traverse
is
done on August
11, 1989
DESCRIPTION.
without
25
CRICKRAT BRIDGE
(CARNEGIE)
DESCRIPTION:
A one time
railroad
bridge,
now a haven
for
crickrats
and climbers
providing
several
different
levels
of difficulty
and a variance
of heights
(25'
to 35').
Many of the climbs
are deceptive
with
avalanching
exits
or as Jean Paul Sarte
once wrote
"No Exit."
There are clean
faces
and dirty
ones.
The dirtier
faces are virgin,
but climbing
to pick
cherries
carries
a strong
warning
here.
If a hold
looks like
it will
break
off,
it will,
as I have
learned.
Most of the climbs here are solid
and the
successful
rathead
is rewarded
with
a beautiful
choice
of views:
either
a smelly
dump or a mill.
The variety
of faces
to climb provide
many choices
for workouts .
26
CRICKRAT BRIDGE (cont . )
DIRECTIONS:
Exit
the
Parkway
West at
Carnegie
( if
headed
towards
the airport,
take
the Carnegie
Exit
and
bear towards
the right
at the "Y" ).
Turn right
at
the first
traffic
light .
Stay on this
road as it
crosses
a bridge .
The road will
then bear right.
You will
pass
a few mills
and cross
railroad
tracks .
The bridge
is at the end of the road to
your left .
EQUIPMENT:
*Standard
*Chalk
SET UP:
There is a good variety
anchors
for top roping.
up is very easy.
TIPS:
The rock
surfaces
presented
here
are cut
stone.
Holds are possible
in the decayed
mortar
between
the
stones
and
in the
holes
created
by the
quarrying
of the
stone.
To make some climbs
harder,
you can ignore
these .
HAZARDS:
Loose,
NAMES:
"Acid Rock " - south face of south pillar
"No Exit" - climbs with concrete
finishes
"Urban Blight"
- namesake for this
book
INSPIRATION:
What shall
be use to
Where we used to talk?
How shall
I fill
the
How shall
I complete
Pink
top
roping
weathered
27
item .s
of natural
and artificial
Getting
to the top for set
stone
fill
the
empty
spaces,
final
places,
the wall?
Floyd "Empty Spaces"
HEIDELBERG RAILROAD BRIDGE
(HEIDELBERG)
HEIDELBERG RAILROAD BRIDGE (cont . )
NAMES:
Pictured
'' Hydraulics
Statistics."
INSPIRATION :
You and I,
an open book face.
Manual,''
on the
On
right
the
left
is
is
"Basic
we wi ll cl imb so high .
STYX Superstars
D:EJO£ ROIDER
MOHf
STUDYCC!fiSE
LESSON nl()
REN6:1'18ER
WHEN 80ULDERING DR LE.Al)
CLI'181NGA#llDYOU TAKEA FALL ON
AN lN Cf..lNED PLANE: DON'T- L£T YOUR
FEET RUB TH£ STONE S~F"AC£ .
RE~
DOR l'IOTTO:
FLESH HEALS, SHOES DON· T.
- JOE-
~-L...---L._~-+----
DESCRIPTION:
Bring your kids or friends
with you on this
climb .
You can park your car at the self-serve
ca .r wash
and let
them clean
it,
while
you climb these
30'
climbs.
The climbs
are greasy,
so take advantage
of th e top roping.
If a train
comes on the lower
tracks,
you'll
have a captive
audience.
DIRECTIONS:
Exit the Parkway at Carnegie
(if heading
toward the
airport,
bear
left
afte r taking
the exit
toward
Heidelberg)
.
Turn
left
at
stop
sign
onto
Washington
Avenue.
At the fifth
traffic
signs:11,
turn
left
onto
Cochran
Road.
About
100 yards
along,
you 'll drive under it.
EQUIPMENT:
*Standard
top roping
*Chalk - a must
SET UP:
I suggest
TIPS:
Keep chalk
using
the
I
I
YOU'LL GET IT N~XT
TINE 1'1JSTER.
SHOE-5
items
I" 1000/1;.
s mall
t rees
on top.
handy.
28
- - ·-
29
THE zoo
(GREENTREE)
THE zoo
HISTORY:
The cement wall
was formed when borough
workers
tried
to pour a sidewalk
along the top of the hill.
Lacking
the wood to make a proper
form and not
wishing
to travel
the great
distance
of two miles
to get it,
they poured three
truckloads
of cement
overboard,
then gave up.
INSPIRATION:
It is good to
good thing .
be
Gal.
DESCRIPTION:
A poured concrete
wall I spotted
while cruising
for
climbs.
Some of my students
proceeded
to boulder
it and found tjlemselves
halfway
up and a little
apprehensive
about continuing.
With my help they
finished
the climb and I decided
to include
it in
the book because
of its uniqueness.
DIRECTIONS:
Exit the
Greentree.
buildings
Parkway West at Greentree.
The wall is behind
the
on the right.
EQUIPMENT:
*Standard
top
SET UP:
Anchor
off
HAZARDS:
Cement
may pull
NAMES:
Pi ctured
roping
the
fence
- "Only
free
first
Bear toward
block of
item .s
running
along
the
top.
in places.
in America"
t
30
(cont.)
31
zealously
4: 18
affected
always
in
a
WEISH WALL
(SOUTH SIDE)
DESCRIPTION:
DIRECTIONS:
LONG WALL
(SOUTH SIDE)
short
wall
20'
high,
but
made from smoother,
smaller
stones
than
the majority
of walls
around
Pittsburgh
.
The wall
can be top roped
from the
trees.
It can also be bouldered
.
DESCRIPTION:
A
long
stone
wall
supporting
about 20' high.
Makes for long
DIRECTIONS:
Take East Carson Street
thru
South Side.
Go east
to 28th street
and turn right.
The wall begins
at
the end of the road and continues
to the far left.
EQUIPMENT:
•standard
*Chalk
SET UP:
Anchor
NAMES:
Pictured
INSPIRATION:
Endurance
A
Coming from East Carson
Street
make a right
onto
South
12th
Street.
Follow
the
road
across
the
bridge
and make a right
onto Welsh.
The wall is on
the left
hand side of Welsh.
EQUIPMENT:
*Standard
*Chalk
top
roping
SET UP:
Top roping
NAMES!
Painted
INSPIRATION:
The city . . . a natu .ral territory
with histrionic
gifts.
Jonathan
Raban
by using
on the
32
top
off
roping
railings
- "David
is
trees
for
anchors.
wall.
for
the
.
Lee Rock"
patience
concentrated.
Carlyle
items
the
items
psychopath
33
railroad
traverse.
tracks
TROLLEY STATION
(STATION SQUARE)
SELDOM SEEN PARK
(SOUTH HILLS)
DESCRIPTION:
You can't
get more public
than climbing
here .
we
climbed
on a quiet,
sunny
afternoon
and met
interesting
folk - like the well bred English
lady.
You may enjoy climbing
here,
if you don't
mind the
scrutiny.
When station
Square was refurbished
they
cleaned
the stone
on all
the walls,
which makes
this
a very clean climb .
DIRECTIONS:
Located
Square.
EQUIPMENT:
•standard
top roping
items
*Forget
the chalk bag unless
for defacing
the property.
on
Carson
SET UP:
Use the
boulder
HAZARDS:
Spectators
- ignore
jeering
crows.
INSPIRATION:
Courage
Street
across
from
you want
to
anchors
above the set up for top
the walls which makes for a faster
is
the
34
the
cackles
fear of being
Horace Smith
and
thought
kudos
DESCRIPTION:
Seldom Seen Park is not really
a park.
To wit,
there
are no signs
pointing
it out .
There are no
picnic
tables,
swing sets,
or any other
of the
u3ual park accouterments.
What is worth seeing.is
a railroad
bridge,
which twice crosses
a meandering
stream.
The bridge
has four pillars
that
are 25'
to 3 o' high.
The faces
are a bit greasy,
but are
filled
with holds.
The wooded surroundings
give
the urban
climber
the feeling
of being
far away
from the city.
The small
15' outcropping
can be
used for dynos.
DIRECTIONS:
Take the Route 51 exit from the Parkway East (279),
toward Uniontown.
Turn left
at the first
traffic
light
onto Woodruff .
Make the first
right
into a
gravel
parking
lot.
The small
outcropping
is on
your left
as you head toward the building
and the
bridge
is behind the building
.
EQUIPMENT:
•Standard
*Chalk
SET UP:
Plenty
Station
pay
fines
roping
exit.
or
from
the
top
roping
items
a coward.
of anchors
35
on the
bridge
railings.
SELDOMSEEN PARK (cont.)
NAMES:
Be creative
CREDIT:
Special
thanks
INSPIRATION:
Where's
that
to
PILLARS
(DOWNTOWN}
Bill.
confounded
bridge?
Led Zeppelin
DESCRIPTION:
c.HAU:
JOE ROI DER STUDENTS LIS£ 11Y SPECIAL CHALK I.JP l"IETHOt)
OEVE\.OPED BY l'1E. JOE ROI.DER t FOR THREE REASONS:
1. TO PREV£NT BEING ENCUKBEREDBY DANGLINGCHALK BAGS.
DIRECTIONS:
The pillars
from station
the stadium.
are located
at Station
Square,
across
Square,
and at the North Shore near
EQUIPMENT:
Not needed.
Most people
SET UP:
None
HAZARDS:
If traversing
over
the
river,
result
in contact
with underwater
2 .TO RIO CIUASELVES
OF WASTEDTlt1E AND ENERGYWHEN
HAVING TO TAKE A "'DIP".
~ .TO GlVE T~ LA.DIES A VIEW OF OUR 9EHINDS,UNOBSTRUCTED
BY A CHALK BAG.
I
36
The three
pillars
were here before
the age of Fort
' Pitt.
The city
founders
tried
to build
bridges
on
them (such as the Manchester
Bridge)
but they would
mysteriously
disappear
during
the
night.
The
untapped
power
of these
pillars
inspired
A.C.
Clark's
2001:
A Space
Odyssey.
Urban
Climbers
enjoy climbing
and traversing
the pillars.
I lost
several
students
who were doing laps around one of
these
and vanished,
never t o be found again.
37
traverse
here.
popping
debris.
off
may
SIX WEEKS AFTER PVERDOSING ON ROlDER'S
MAGIC FORMULAS AND EXERCISES .
PILLARS (cont.)
NAMES:
Pictu .red - "You are
HISTORY:
The old Manchester
Bridge pier
at the stadium was
originally
meant to be cleaned
up, serving
as an
observation
platform
built
for viewing the city and
rivers.
That
project
has some anti-climbing
rebels
think these pillars
are ugly and should be
torn down.
I, among others
see the .m as monuments
of beauty
and majesty,
pillars
of the
clilllbing
community,
put there
to inspire
all city
dwellers
to strive
to new heights
and to reach
for their
dreams .
INSPIRATION:
Cities
are
built
here
X"
n•-
-.,
I HAVE TO GET ROIDER'S
rHAGfc INJECTJ=ON VITAMINS
TOO.
DAYLATER CASPER FL IES TO YOSEMITE TO
iEST HIS SKILLS .-=:::::::::::;uw.
THATJ
-
-- -
to kill people.
Charles Bukowski
NOW FOR THE REAL TEST . BACK TO THE
URBAN JUNGLE WHERE IT ALL BEGAN.
WAS EASY • .
ft
r·
SOCIETY
I
/
IS
.,,
,i'.'.j
n«JSE WHO ONCE MOCKE D CASPER NOi,/ BOW THE REPORTERS ASK QUESTIONS
AND CHEER HIM' GRACIOUSLY ANSWERS THEM.
iE:JR HEADS IN HUMILITY
Ill,
1:-~1:.·S
\
\~\~~ .
f'
•
38
\
'-"
\
E.
wHAi ARE '{01.l~ ' l'\'i GOA'- 1-\.. of ,1--1iG~'(.
PLANS 1-101>1?
- A ol"ir'-1:.'E. A uf-9AN 9's,;: • €.~
'?' (c l'\9s •"'
5i:,.,•
c1-i
• ·1-'- 9
e.
,~1:.\'I
r:;/:l~ \
'
AND CASPER
\S ,0
~ 1--1
r8 sO 1:-; ,:O /-------,:~I:. ~ \ ,:'i •
,~€.
.__
COMPLETE .
0
39
~
THREE BRIDGES
(DOWNTOWN)
ARMSTRONGTUNNEL
(DOWNTOWN)
DESCRIPTION:
These bridges
span the Allegheny
River.
All of the
pillars
have some fun climbing.
You can anchor off
the
railing,
but
if you climb
all
the
way up,
you'll
take a lead fall
if you happen to pop off.
DIRECTIONS:
The bridges
are
Streets,
spanning
EQUIPMENT:
*Standard
*Chalk
SET UP:
top
on Sixth,
seventh,
the Allegheny
River.
roping
Pictured
INSPIRATION:
Pittsburgh
- "The Thrill
- some place
40
Ninth
My suggestion
for city
employees
wishing
to get a
little
exercise
is to walk uptown to the Duquesne
side of the Armstrong
Tunnel
(even the name evokes
visions
of climbing)
for a quick workout.
Those
who do will
be pleasantly
surprised
by the range
of difficulty
of these
walls.
The climbs
range
from 10' to 25'.
There are no crowds,
but plenty
of attention
and easy access.
What more could you
ask for?
DIRECTIONS:
Drive or walk a few blocks
up Forbes
Avenue from
the j ailhouse
downtown.
The tunnel
is on the
right.
Parking
is
available
on the
left
on
weekends only.
EQUIPMENT:
*No chalk
*Standard
SET UP:
use
TIPS:
Avoid
HAZARDS:
Your be layers
co-eds.
items
Anchor off railing.
If
set up off the top of the
will be shorter.
NAMES:
and
DESCRIPTION:
you're
railing
of it
special
All"
going to the
so your lead
top,
fall
the
(too messy)
top roping
items
railing
using
for
the
top
cement
attention
41
roping
ledges
anchors.
for
holds.
may wander
along
with
the
ARMSTRONGTUNNEL (cont.)
the
EAST STREET FUN SQUARES
(EAST STREET, PITTSBURGH)
NAMES:
"Tunnel Vision"
- between
on the right
side
two book
ended
INSPIRATION:
For in the day of trouble
He will keep me safe in His dwelling
He will hide me in the shelter
of His tabernacle
And set me high upon a rock.
Psalm 27:5
walls
---- ~
'ATCH
our
FOR
THESE
YUPPIES - The ~ub-c1;11~ure of the climbing world.
can be easily
1dent1f1ed
by any of the following:
These
No one knows why Penn D.O.T. would construct
such
an odd shaped
wall,
but
urban
climbers
a~e
grateful.
This is one of the better
walls
of this
kind.
Climbing
is made possible
by jamming the
hands
and feet
into
cracks
used
to connect
the
stones.
From a distance
it appears
rather
easy,
but is capable
of changing
your mind once you try
it.
Other climbs
like this
can be found thruout
the city.
DIRECTIONS:
Take East Street
to the north.
the left
about 1/2 mile out.
EQUIPMENT:
Not needed
SET UP:
Not necessary
TIPS:
Try a traverse
workout.
folks
1. Expensive cars with lots of statement
stickers.
2. Flashy equipment in the latest
style . (Whole rack
of cams).
3. Dialogue similar
to, "These shoes cost me $145".
4. Alcohol consumed before climbing .
5. Total lack of style,
ethics,
or originality.
6. Large masses of people
all
looking pretty
much
the same.
There are several
ways to quickly rid the area of them. Try
one the
following
statements;
directing
towards
their
leader.
1. "There's
a party at
climbing
area".
2. "You'll
need more chalk if you want to climb this
one".
3 . "Yeah, we were climbing here last week. Saw someone take a screamer.
Don't know if he lived or
not. Probably better
if he died though".
42
DESCRIPTION:
of
43
the
whole
Fun Squares
length
for
are
on
a hardman
EAST STREET FUN SQUARES (cont.)
WALL OF FAME
(OAKLAND)
HAZARDS:
The surface
area
cuts a climber's
NAMES:
"Postulates"
HISTORY:
Constructed
by Penn D.O . T. as
Street
Expressway
around 1988.
INSPIRATION:
The world is like a board with holes
in it,
square men have got into the round holes.
Sydney Smith
of the
fingers
cracks
.
is
sh a rp
part
WHEREASLYCRA HELPS CLIMBERS TO STAND OUT IN NATURE;
and
easily
the
East
of
and the
DESCRIPTION:
The wall of Fame was found by Francis
Mulcahy while
walking
to graduate
school.
He reported
it to me
and I investiga
t ed an d found a semi - circular
wall
support i ng a hillside
just
off campus in Oakland.
Bouldering
is the most popular
activity
here,
with
top
roping
and traversing
coming
in second
and
third.
Climbing
is convenient
and includes
the
fringe
benefits
of co-eds
and plenty
of bars within
walking
distance
.
Heights
range
from 6' to 3 o' .
The area
is also
lighted
at night
for
midnight
bandits.
This is an excellent
training
ground for
beginners.
While experienced
climbers
will
also
enjoy working out here.
DIRECTIONS:
Take the Oakland Exit from the Parkway onto Forbes
Avenue.
From Forbes,
turn
left
onto
Bigelow
Boulevard
just
before
the Cathedral
of Learning .
Continue
straight
ahead for two blocks.
The wall
is found straight
ahead on the left .
IN URBANCLIMBING rT · s USED AS CAMOUFLAGE.
44
45
WALL OF FAME (cont.)
EQUIPMENT:
*Standard
top roping
*No chalk - residents
you chalking
up their
C.M.U. BRIDGE
(OAKLAND)
items
in the
view.
area
won't
want
to
see
SET UP:
If
on.
TIPS:
Traversing
the wall is a good workout,
especially
if
you race
each
other
or try
to
beat
your
previous
time.
The large
cracks
between the stones
should
not be used as holds.
Try to climb on the
stone
only.
Of course
I'm not telling
you how to
climb.
If you use the cracks,
keep in mind that
snakes
and other
things
with sharp
teeth
may be
living
there.
Please
don't
feed the animals.
HAZARDS:
Although
the neighbors
don't
seem to mind
climb
on the wall,
it's
a good idea
to
noise
down.
The rock
itself
is very
spots.
It is not unusual
for a slab
of
pull
free
so a rope
is recommended
if
above a safe height.
NAMES:
"The Flying
Circus"
"Touch the Spider"
INSPIRATION:
With your help I can advance against
With my God I can scale
a wall.
Psalm 18:29
top
roping,
46
there
are
(the
numerous
traverse),
trees
to anchor
if people
keep the
flaky
in
rock to
climbing
and pictured
-
a troop
DESCRIPTION:
c.M.U.
Bridge
is similar
to its
neighbor,
the
Schenley
Park Bridge,
though it is slightly
shorter
and less
intimidating.
Climbing
is available
on
the
sides
and
faces
of the
bridge
supports.
Climbing on the face beneath
the br.idge c<:n b~ done
during
rainy
weather.
The area
1.s sem1.-pr1 vate,
although
evidence
of partying
can be found.
DIRECTIONS:
Take
Forbes
Avenue
from downtown
to Oakland,
to the University
of Pittsburgh.
Continue
going
straight
until
passing
the Ca~negie
~useum on your
right.
c.M.U. Bridge is the first
bridge
you cross
after
the
light.
It
is located
near
an Exxon
Station.
EQUIPMENT:
*Standard
xChalk
top
roping
47
items
C.M.U.
BRIDGE {cont.)
SCHENLEY PARK BRIDGE
{OAKLAND)
SET UP:
Top ropers
TIPS:
About halfway
up, t he stone
sticks
out in a slight
overhang.
This
is the
hardest
part.
Mantling
techniques
have been the most successful
way of
overcoming
the problem.
HAZARDS:
Because
the bridge
is i n Oakla nd, you'll
have to
put up with usual
abuse from students
and weirdos.
Once a young scholar,
trying
to decorate
his dorm
room, started
pulling
on the webbing I was belaying
from.
Being mor e than halfway
up the wall,
this
was slightly
upsetting
to me.
Watch your set up if
you're
on belay.
NAMES:
Pictured
INSPIRATION:
To
the
~mpossible
can anchor
- " No Brain,
timid
and
because
it
Scott
to
the
railings.
No Gain"
hesitating
seems so.
everything
is
DESCRIPTION:
48
The Schenley
Park
Bridge
is not
your
average
supports
are topped
by a
bridge .
The 4 o' stone
very
difficult
overhanging
exit .
The stone
is
mostly clean,
with a few greasy
spots.
Beneath the
bridge
it ' s dirty,
but the faces
and structure
can
be climbed
in rainy
weather .
The builders
of the
bridge
knew it would be difficult
to surmount
the
overhang
and extended
it along
the length
of the
wall,
thereby
presenting
the climber
with practice
overhangs
which can be easily
reached.
Once you
have conquered
the overhang,
you'll
be able to exit
from the higher
climbs
{about 40').
49
SCHENLEY PARK BRIDGE (cont.)
PANTHER HOLLOW
(OAKLAND)
DIRECTIONS:
Take
Forbes
Avenue
from
downtown
to Oakland.
Continue
thru the University
of Pittsburgh.
Make a
right
at the traffic
light
after
passing
the large
parking
lot
on your
right.
The parking
lot
is
catty-corner
to the
Cathedral
of Learning.
The
Carnegie
Library
will be on your left.
You'll
be
driving
across
the bridge
about 100 yards
form the
traffic
light.
EQUIPMENT:
*Standard
*Chalk
SET
The railings
anchors.
UP:
top
roping
along
TIPS:
See DESCRIPTION.
HAZARDS:
The structure
NAMES:
Pictured
INSPIRATION:
Courage consists
but in seeing
it
beneath
- "Technical
50
items
the
the
top
prove
bridge
Ecstasy
to
is
be
very
bombproof
rusty.
"
not in blindly
overlooking
and conquering
it.
Jean Paul Richter
danger,
DESCRIPTION:
The bridge
spans Panther
Hollow.
The stone pillars
stand on either
end supporting
the bridge
providing
40' to 45' high faces to climb.
Easy access
to the
base is provided
by a set of steps
and path across
the street
from the Conservatory.
Access
to the
Troll
Bridge is provided
by the same.
DIRECTIONS:
Take a right
off of Forbes Avenue in Oakland after
the large parking
lot (on the right)
and Cathedral
(on the left).
Proceed
across
the Schenley
Park
Bridge and turn right
after
the Conservatory.
The
bridge
is straight
ahead.
EQUIPMENT:
*Standard
SET UP:
Use the
HAZARDS:
Broken
strewn
NAMES:
"Daydream"
INSPIRATION:
The goal of all inanimate
objects
and ultimately
to defeat
him.
Russell
Baker
top
roping
bomb proof
glass
about
items
railing
and general
the earth.
(pillar
51
closest
along
sidewalks.
garbage
to the
humankind
has
Conservatory).
is
to
resist
man
TROLL BRIDGE
(OAKLAND)
RAILROAD BRIDGE
(EAST LIBERTY)
DESCRIPTION :
Tranqu i l and unusual
climbing
can be found
in
my~tical
Panther
Hollow.
Consisting
of a 15' high
bridge
made of gnarled
lava
rock.
Its
unique
surface
is fun to climb by itself
or as a warm up
to t he Panther
Hollow Bridge just
up the hill.
DIRECTIONS:
See Panther
EQUIPMENT:
Not needed.
SET UP:
None
TIPS:
Free
HAZARDS:
Trolls,
elves,
the whole bit.
NAMES:
" Following
Shelob " - Starting
and proceeding
upwards as far
to the outer
face and exiting
HISTORY:
Constructed
by trolls
in a time
forgotten,
would charge
two gold pieces
to anyone wishing
cross . These guardians
have since
fled Oakland
are now working
in food management
somewhere
Ohio.
INSPIRATION:
style
The Dwarf
the giant's
Hollow
- have
Bridge
fun.
witches,
DIRECTIONS.
Try getting
fairies
horizontal
( from
Shadys i de) ,
beneath
the bridge
as possible;
shifting
over the top.
sees farther
than the giant,
shoulders
to mount on.
Anonymous
52
.
who
to
and
in
DESCRIPTION:
Thanks to a local
railroad
cop my students
feared
for their
lives
when first
climbing
here.
They
were asked,
"You don't
know where you are,
do you
boys?
Gangs up here will kill
you ."
Enough s~id;
I was intrigued
and went with them the next time.
Contacting
the locals
proved to be less of a danger
than expected
and I never had a more appreciative
and spellbound
audience.
This area is one of the
top five
climbs
in this
book .
Superior
height
(80'),
solid,
clean
stone,
open book faces,
arch 7s
and a wide selection
of difficult
faces
make this
area a must.
DIRECTIONS:
Take Fifth
Avenue towards
East
Liberty .
At the
intersection
of Fifth
and Penn Avenues,
count the
traffic
light
as light
#1.
After
light
#3 , g o
straight,
and look to the right.
You will soon s ee
the bridge . It's
near a car wash if you're
looking
for landmarks.
when he ha s
53
RAILROAD BRIDGE (cont.)
STATE POLICE RAILROAD BRIDGE
(EAST LIBERTY)
EQUIPMENT:
*Standard
*Chalk
SET UP:
Top roping
possibilities
abound
here.
Man made
anchors
include
a bombproof
railing.
Get to the
top by following
the path under
the arch.
Cross
the road where the path ends at the billboard.
the
path
continues
on the .other
side.
Due to he
overgrowth
of poison
ivy, the alternate
route
is up
the back of the billboard
. Be careful
the wood is
NOT bombproof.
TIPS:
Use of the
form.
corners
for
HAZARDS:
Poison
- found
on the
NAMES:
Two of my favorite
climbs,
named after
broken
gum
ball
machines
thrown
from the top and found in a
heap,
are "Soda Jerk"
and "Blim Blam."
Both are
found on the pillar
to the
left
of the
parking
area.
Blim Blam faces the street
and Soda Jerk is
on the other
side.
The climb on the pillar
to the
left
of Soda Jerk is called
"Rust Never Sleeps."
HISTORY:
Built
by chief
engineer
William
H. Brown in 1903.
This
gentleman,
who is the
patriarch
of urban
climbing,
built
some of the best
scalable
stone
faces in Allegheny
County.
INSPIRATION:
I must not fear.
Fear
the little-death
that
I
will
face my fear.
me and thru me.
And
turn the inner eye to
has gone there
will
remain.
Frank
top
ivy
roping
54
items
handholds
path
is
to the
considered
bad
top.
is the mind-killer
. Fear is
brings
total
obliteration.
I
will permit
it to pass over
when it has gone past I will
see its path.
Where the fear
be nothing.
Only
I will
Herbert
DESCRIPTION:
railroad
bridge
has climbs ranging
from 12' to
I use the shorter
climbs
for a warm-up and
Any face
you try
is
then
hit
the big pillars.
topped by two 6 11 overhangs , making for tough exit.
Even
though
the bridge
is close
to the police
barracks
and firing
range,
the
woods are
thick
enough around the bridge
to keep you concealed
from
any gun sights.
This
60'
Dune
.
DIRECTIONS:
Follow the DIRECTIONS to the East Liberty
Railroad
Bridge
and continue
down the
road
to the
next
intersection.
The state
police
headquarters
will
be on your left.
on the right
where you turn is a
sign on which is painted
"VA MEDICAL CENTER." This
road passes
beneath
the bridge.
Parking
at the
police
headquarters
is your best bet.
EQUIPMENT:
*Standar
*Chalk
d top
roping
55
items
PITTSBURGH ZOO
(HIGHLAND PARK)
STATE POLICE RAILROAD BRIDGE (cont .)
SET UP :
Railings
and
top roping.
TIPS:
Start
NAMES:
Pictured
HISTORY:
INSPIRATION:
tre es
low and work
your
- " The Killer
Built
in 1903
chief
engineer,
designing
and
structures
.
Victory
provide
belongs
n£
plenty
of
anchors
for
DESCRIPTION:
A 100' long by 5'-20'
high retaining
wall between
Hill Road and the Pittsburgh
Zoo Parking
lot.
Main
interests
are traversing
and dynos.
DIRECTIONS:
Follow "Pittsburgh
located
just
off
Park Bridge.
EQUIPMENT:
•standard
SET UP:
Top rope
TIPS:
Bring
HAZARDS:
Escaped
NAMES:
Use zoo animal
INSPIRATION:
Clearly,
then,
the city
is not
it is a human zoo.
Desmond Morr is
way up.
Bees "
by
Columbia
Contracting
Co . whose
H. Brown,
was
famous
for
building
functional,
yet
climbable
W.
to the most
Napoleon
persevering.
top
off
the
Zoo" signs.
Butler
Street
roping
iron
The parking
lot is
near
the Highland
items
railing.
family.
JOE R01D£R HOl'IE
STUDY
COURSE
LESSON THREE
Carnivores
names
REt'IEMBER:SOMETIMES CLIMBERS WITH LESS
I1'1POSINGFIGURES THAN MINE, NEED PERMISSION
TO CLIMB ON PUBLIC ANOPRIVATE PROPERTY.
OUR MOTTO:
REMEMBER
JF THEY OUTLAWURBANCLIMBING.
ONLYOUTLA
WS WILL CLIMB.
-JOE-
56
57
to
create
your
own.
a concrete
jungle;
HOMESTEADWALL
(HOMESTEAD)
DESCRIPTION:
HOMESTEADWALL (cont.)
The wall runs on both sides
of the road and has a
.
wide variety
of heights
to choose
from ( 6' -35')
The stone
is very clean and not as greasy
as common
railroad
stone.
I suggest
that while climbing
here
you
refrain
from
using
the
"fraggle
holes"
(drainage
slits)
to make the climbs
more difficult.
DIRECTIONS:
Take 376 east to the Homestead
Exit.
Stay on this
road approximately
two miles.
The walls
are along
this
road as it goes down a long hill
before
the
High Level Bridge.
I park at Hardees
on the left.
EQUIPMENT:
*Standard
*Chalk
SET UP:
Trees grow the length
of the whole wall and provide
anchors
for any climb chosen.
There
is plenty
of
sidewalk
room for the belayer.
TIPS:
Refrain
is near.
from
HAZARDS:
Honking
nervous
horns
can
disposition.
top
roping
NAMES:
"Pre-amp"
- pictured
INSPIRATION:
The weal th of the rich
is their
They imagine it an unsealable
wall.
Proverbs
18:11
J
\
\
items
throwing
loose
be
a
rock
hazard
down when traffic
if
you' re
of
a
POPPING OFF URBAN STYLE
58
59
fortified
city.
HIGH LEVEL BRIDGE
{HOMESTEAD)
DESCRIPTION:
A 25' to 30' wall supporting
A fine
climb
after
warming
Wall .
DIRECTIONS:
Take the Homestead
on this
road until
EQUIPMENT:
*Standard
*Chalk
SET UP:
Anchor
NAMES:
Pictured
INSPIRATION:
Bigger
Bigger
God is
That I
top
off
the High Level Bridge.
up at
the
Homestead
Exit off the Parkway East.
you get to the bridge.
roping
items
Stay
Due to the nature
following
section
The user of this
and responsibilities
gaining
permission
railing
- "Fast
Start"
than all my problems,
than all my fears ,
bigger
than all the mountains,
can or cannot
see.
Gordon Jenson
60
61
of the climbs
in the
this
caution
is re~terated:
guide assumes
all risks
of use.
Climb only after
from owners.
CARNEGIE PARK BARBECUE
(CARNEGIE)
CARNEGIE PARK BARBEC
UE
(CARNEGIE)
TIPS:
Handholds
are thin,
If it rains,
climb
HAZARDS:
Only
NAMES:
Pictured
INSPIRATION:
It is necessary
to surpass
one's
occupat~on
ought to last
as long
Queen Christina
the
barbs
mostly
inside.
thrown
"Amazing
smearing
with
the
f e et.
self
always;
as life.
this
by picnickers.
Journey".
AND lN THE WORLDOF BUSINESS TODAY,
SUN-TAO C011PANY
S· STOCK ROSE '10 POI NTS WHEN
.......__,
RUl'10RSOF A HOSTILE TAKEOVER REACHEDTHE MARKET.
,
THE STOCK LATER DROPPEP 50 POI NTS WH
EN IT WAS FOUND
THAT IT WAsN·T A TAKE OVER AT ALL, BUT· RATHER A GROUP
OF URBAN CLI MBERS ASSAULTI NG THE CDMPANYS' DOWNTOWN
OFFICE BUILDING.
1
DESCRIPTION:
DIRECTIONS:
Remember the ants and bees who could
ruin a picnic
with
their
pesty
behavior?
Enter
the
vulgarian
climbers
who descend
upon Carnegie
Park in pursuit
of picnic
shelters
and left
over food.
I certainly
caused
a stir
when I began climbing
this
shelter
and admit
to enjoying
sandbagging
some of the
picnicing
men,
who were
so
eager
to
prove
themselves
to
their
wives
and
girlfriends
by
attempting
to copy my climbs.
Fry your fingers
and
roast
your wienies
next time you' re outside
on a
picnic.
Exit Parkway West at Carnegie
(if headed toward the
Airport,
take
the
Carnegie
exit
and bear
toward
Heidelberg
at the "Y") .
Turn left
at the
first
traffic
light.
Look for Carnegie
Park on th e right
after
crossing
a short
bridge .
EQUIPMENT:
Chalk (optional)
greasy.
- the
SET UP:
None - bouldering
62
only .
stone
is
very
c l ean
and
not
't>USHJ ESS
T ODAY
CHANNEL
5 21
NEWS
63
NURSEFINDERS
(GREENTREE)
(Climb
only
after
gaining
NURSEFINDERS (cont.)
permission
from owners.)
NAMES:
Pictured
INSPIRATION:
Architecture:
- "Vertical
Smile"
the art of how to waste
Philip
Johnson
The New York Times
December 27, 1964
space
THEJOE ROIDER
HOME
STUDY COURSE
LESSON FOUR
KIO - HERE' S MY DEFINITION
OF GOOD CLIMBING:
GOOD
CLIMBING IS REACHING THE
NEXT HOLD•. •
f
DESCRIPTION:
DIRECTIONS:
EQUIPMENT:
Easy climbing
stone
put on as an afterthought
to
attract
urban
climbing
business
to the
area.
Rather
tall
and narrow
with
about
eight
to ten
different
faces
around the building.
My students
love
to climb
here
knowing
that
any injuries
sustained
while climbing
can quickly
be taken
care
of by the attractive
nurses
within
the building.
Who says you can't
find nurses
these days?
Take the Greentree
toward Greentree.
right.
It's
just
you against
Exit
It's
off the Parkway West.
Bear
the first
building
on the
the
AAAAAAGH ! !
-(
/
(
(
rocks.
I
r
~
/
SET UP:
Not applicable
TIPS:
Avoid peering
into
the
Climbing
on the backside
to the discerning
public.
HAZARDS:
The stone is bombproof,
but I have experienced
some
flaking
on the
outer
surf ace.
Since
you' re
bouldering,
we recommend
that
you
don't
use
excessive
force
on the more questionable
holds.
64
windows
on your
way up.
makes you less
noticeable
ANO NOT DYING
. . IF YOU FAIL.
I
REMEHBER OUR MOTTO:
"EA~ OF CLI MBING"
<EtJN.
Q-IALLENGING,
§AFE >
-JOE:-
65
RAMMMETALS INC.
(BRIDGEVILLE)
GALLERIA
(SOUTH HILLS)
[Climb
[Climb
only
after
gaining
permission
have
tall
after
gaining
permission
from owners.]
from owners.)
DESCRIPTION:
Seems like
it could
Lloyd Wright.
Rather
stone with good holds.
DIRECTIONS:
Exit.
Turn right
after
the
Take 79 to Bridgeville
exit,
then turn left
onto Washington
Avenue.
Look
for the building
there
(within
two blocks
on the
right).
EQUIPMENT:
Not needed
SET UP:
Not necessary
INSPIRATION:
His wrath
are broken
been designed
but narrow.
is poured
out like
up by Him.
Nahum 1:6
66
only
fire,
and
by Frank
Common cut
the
rocks
DESCRIPTION:
Climbers
who find it hard to get away from the ones
at home please
take notice;
Urban Blight
may have
a solution.
Nestled
within
the wilds
of the South
Hills
is the Galleria
where you can drop off your
advantage
of some
"born
to shop 11 mate and take
unique
climbing
opportunities.
The Galleria
features
thousands
of exquisite
pieces
of rock all
arranged
in
eye
pleasing
and
finger
busting
patterns.
The selections
will
challenge
you while
your partner
enjoys
the great
indoors.
Finish
your
day's
enjoyment
with margaritas
at Chi Chi's
just
up the road.
DIRECTIONS:
towards
South Hills
Village.
Take Route 19 south
At the bottom
of the hill
look to the right
and
turn right
after
the Amoco Station.
Make the first
right
turn entering
the shopping
center.
EQUIPMENT:
*Climbing
SET UP:
Not required.
Shoes
All
67
of the
climbs
are
boulderable.
CHRIST METHODIST CHURCH
(SOUTH HILLS)
GALLERIA (cont . )
TIPS:
The Galleria
is composed
of cut stone
- most of
which
is
placed
horizontally.
The hand
and
footholds
are as solid
as Sears
(oops,
sorry)
and
for the most part
are free
from smearing
and crack
problems.
This
is an excellent
area
to practice
your edging
skills.
HAZARDS:
My first
time out on the Galleria
brought
me to the
attention
of the security
department.
Instead
of
chasing
me off , the gentleman
officer
just
watched,
most likely
because
I was the first
person
to ever
try such a stunt.
Be aware that you could be fined
for trespassing
if you don 't obtain
permission
from
the management
first.
Tell
them your climbing
is
good publicity
for the store.
NAMES:
The climb
featured
in the photo
is "Five
Finger
Discount."
The rest
of the
climbing
area
is
unnamed and as far as I know, unclimbed.
INSPIRATION:
I
have
with
I still
climbed
the highest
mountain,
you . . .
haven't
found what I'm looking
U2 The Joshua Tree
68
only
to
[Climb
only
from owners.
after
J
be
for.
DESCRIPTION:
Do you believe
in a higher
being?
Many did when
they saw my students
and I assau~ting
~he ~ast ~ace
of Christ
Methodist
Church.
This climb
is unique
by the pattern
o.f the
concrete
and the
risk
of
climbing
on God's property.
Not an area for an all
day workout,
but well worth a stopover.
Come on,
go meet your maker.
DIRECTIONS:
Take
west
Liberty
Avenue
to
the
south
Hills
Village.
Before
the Village,
turn
left
at the
light
as if going
to Village
Square
Mall.
Stay
left
and continue
a short
way.
The church
will be
on the right.
EQUIPMENT:
Not needed
SET UP:
Not necessary
HAZARDS:
Climb
locals
NAMES:
"Stairway
before
the Sunday church
goers
and the other
who run rather
conservative
in these
parts.
to Heaven"
69
- pictured
CHRIST METHODIST CHURCH (cont.)
INSPIRATION:
GINNY LOU
(SOUTH HILLS)
And it is written
See , I lay in Zion a stone that
causes
men
to stumble
and a rock that makes them fall
and the one who trusts
in him will
never b e
put to shame.
Romans 9:33
LET'S
GO! I ' VE GOT A
SIXTY FOOT CRACK FOR
YOU TO WOR
K ON. FOR
STARTERS IT HAS A ROOF
WITH A BIG CRANK.
[Climb
only
after
gaining
permission
from
owners.)
~
---
GREAT!
DESCRIPTION:
Ginny who?
Ginny Lou, of course,
is the matron
of
urban
climbers
worldwide.
Gin's
spot
has 25'
of
cut stone
on its
four sides.
With open books and
impossible
roofs
for the more daring.
No longer
serving
dinner
or anything
else
for that
matter,
they
closed
after
a diner
spotted
a rathead
climber)
emerging
from the kitchen.
DIRECTIONS:
Take Route 51 south
on the
left
after
right.
EQUIPMENT:
Not needed
SET UP:
None
HAZARDS:
Stay
NAMES:
"No Win situation"
INSPIRATION:
You
can
Restaurant.
DAG NABBIT
GET OFF MY ROOF!
clear
of any electrical
get
anything
71
tubes.
Pizza.
Gin's
Park
will
be
on the
wires.
- pictured
Arlo
70
past the
Danny's
Guthrie
you
want
at
Alice's
J.C . PENNEY
(CENTURY III MALL)
[Climb
only
after
gaining
permission
THE DANGERSOF FOOLISHNESS
A CLIMBING I NTERLUDE
from owners.]
LEMMINGUSHUMANAACTIVA
DESCRIPTION:
J.C.
Pe nn ey is a monstrous
wall of decent
height.
Climbing
is made poss i ble by the protruding
bricks
which follow a pattern
thruout
the wall . Large and
risky
are two words that
describe
J .c. Penney ' s
best
(see HAZARDS).
DIRECTIONS:
J.C . Penney is located
at Century
III Mall.
If you
don ' t know how to get there,
take
Route 51 South
past the tubes
for about 15 minutes.
SET UP:
Not necessary
TIPS:
Try the
HAZARDS:
Don't
you'll
exits
HISTORY:
Built
when the mall was constructed,
the future
of
prosperity
lies
in recognizing
the
J. c. Penney's
potential
of its walls
for commercial
use to urban
climbers .
INSPIRATION:
Doubt
bookends
and roofs
.
climb higher
than you're
also have to climb back
from the top of the roof.
when you will,
but
Boree
never
accustomed
to since
down.
There are no
yourself.
LEMMINGUSHUMANAMORBIDA
72
73
VALUE CITY
(NORTH HILLS)
[ Climb
only
after
gaining
permission
DESCRIPTION:
A large
wall consisting
height
of 15'.
DIRECTIONS:
Located
Road.
EQUIPMENT:
Not needed
SET UP:
Not necessary
NAMES:
Make up your
INSPIRATION:
Fools
at
rush
the
end
MITCHELL'S BAR/LOUNGE
(NORTH HILLS)
of
of
[ Climb
cut
Northway
stone
to
Mall
own.
in where angels
Pape
74
fear
to tread.
on
a maximum
only
after
gaining
permission
from owners .)
DESCRIPTION:
Before stopping
in for that cold one, try a workout
on this
20' wall . Made from cut stone,
the surface
vrovides
small holds that
can be a challenge.
Try
a traverse
if you really
want a workout.
DIRECTIONS:
Take McKnight Road to Pittsburgh.
As you descend
the
hill
from
the
Westview
Exit,
Mitchell's
Bar/Lounge
will
be on the right,
just
before
Old
Brother
Dan's Revival
Center.
EQUIPMENT:
Not needed
SET UP:
Not necessary
TIPS:
Stay
sober
until
temptation
is right
HISTORY:
Changes
names
restaurant/bar.
INSPIRATION:
Everybody
McKnight
must
75
finished
in your
constantly,
get stoned.
Bob Dylan
with
face.
climbing.
but
remains
The
a
ROHRICH CADILLAC
(NORTH HILLS}
TRINITY CATHEDRAL
(DOWNTOWN,PITTSBURGH}
( Climb
[Climb
DESCRIPTION:
only
after
gaining
permission
Trinity
cathedral
is
of rough cut stone
to
30'
to
60'
(towers).
usually
becomes
dead
good place
to climb
Also recommended
as a
from
owners.
Not necessary
TIPS:
Some holds
are
buckets.
Select
NAMES:
Make up your
HISTORY:
Goes way back
INSPIRATION:
And as He went out of the temple
One of His disciples
saith
unto Him,
Master,
see what manner of stones
And what buildings
are here.
Mark 13:1
thin
while
others
offer
as your abilities
allow.
76
the
plaque
on the
gaining
permission
from owners.
)
bomber
DESCRIPTION:
Part
of the
structure
of a cadillac
dealership
consisting
of semi-smooth
stone
that
is placed
in
an irregular
pattern,
thus
allowing
some small
edges for climbing.
Don't let the dealers
talk you
into anything.
DIRECTIONS :
Take
right
EQUIPMENT:
None needed
SET UP:
Not necessary
HAZARDS:
Dealers
with
INSPIRATION:
Nothing
is
own.
- read
after
)
a large
building
constructed
a height
that
varies
between
As downtown
Pittsburgh
on the weekends,
this
is a
if you want to avoid
crowds.
lunch hour diversion.
SET UP:
only
wall.
Route 19 West to Wexford.
Rohrich
across
from the post office.
fancy
to
suits
be feared
Bacon
77
and pinky
but
fear .
rings.
Cadillac
is
[Climb
only
RESTAURANT
(SHARPSBURG)
gaining
permission
after
from owners.)
DESCRIPTION:
A large
wall of small pieces
of cut stone.
Larger
than it is high,
it can be scaled
to a height
of
about
20'.
Good Italian
food inside
in case you
work up an appetite.
DIRECTIONS:
Take
exit
SET UP:
Not necessary
NAMES:
Pictured
INSPIRATION:
Stolen
Route 28 North to
and take Main Street
Sharpsburg.
Get off
to the 1800 block.
the
"Toe Jam"
sweets
are best.
Colley
78
Cibber
79
DICKSON QUARRY
(SEWICKLEY)
DESCRIPTION:
(!_
_, __
One of my favorite
places.
eye view of the area.
'2.
_ __.--'----
-------~
4
3
DICKSON QUARRY (cont.)
Here
is
a rough
1)
This is a short
climb with a big roof.
A great
place
to build
your upper
body strength
and
practice
general
overhang
techniques.
Also a
great
shelter
from sudden spring
showers.
2)
The first
face seen as you make your approach.
It's
the best and cleanest
face.
There is 25'
of good sandstone
topped by 5' of flakier
rock.
It's
approximately
40'
wide.
One
of
Pittsburgh's
most challenging
climbs.
80
Approximately
outcrop
with
35'
high.
A great
beginners'
many small overhangs
and cracks.
4)
A nice
5)
A bouldering
6)
A 100'
long
traversing
face,
with
15'
high
of shaky flake.
solid
sandstone
topped
by 20'
There is a tough boulder
and an overhang
on the
right.
boulder
to
scale
face
or traverse.
approximately
50'
long .
DIRECTIONS:
Take I-79 North to the Sewickley
Exit.
Take Ohio
River Blvd. towards
Sewickley
(West).
Make a right
before
the Sewickley
County
Inn .
Turn
left
on
Beaver.
Go approximately
two blocks
and make a
right
onto
Nevin.
When Nevin
forks,
take
the
middle
road up the hill.
Go past
Farren
Street.
Park at the U turn .
Take the path
up the hill
thru the woods.
EQUIPMENT:
*Standard
top
*Chalk
*Chest harness
roping
SET UP:
Use trees
top
TIPS:
'i'he farther
rock gets.
to
HAZARDS:
Poison
climbs.
and
NAMES:
Talk
INSPIRATION:
Nothing
is impossible;
there
are ways which
lead to everything;
and if we had sufficient
will we should
always
have sufficient
means.
La Rochefoucauld
birds-
s
3)
for
for
ivy
to the
old
81
items
practicing
roping
the
right
loose
overhangs
anchors.
you
rock
go,
at
the
the
dirtier
top
of
timers.
the
some
BOULDERPARK
(SEWICKLEY)
BOULDER-PARK (cont.)
DESCRIPTION:
A great
place
to boulder
with
problems
to work on.
There
climbs which can be top roped.
DIRECTIONS:
Take North
65 into
Sewickley.
Turn right
onto
Boundary
Street,
just
before
the Sewickley
County
Inn.
Turn left
on Beaver Street,
then right
at the
traffic
light
on Broad Street.
At the end of Broad
Street,
turn right
on Hopskin.
Take the first
left
(sharp)
into the cemetery.
Take the next left
and
park at the turn-around
circle.
Proceed
over the
hill
on foot.
The ridge
of stone
is on the other
side of the valley.
EQUIPMENT:
*Top roping
:.<Chalk
*Helmet
SET UP:
Anchor
off
items
are
all
are
kinds
also
HAZARDS:
If you wander too far along the ridge,
some watchdogs
guarding
their
owner's
is plenty
of loose rock.
NAMES:
Talk
INSPIRATION:
Above all,
young traveller,
take
my advice,
and
never,
never,
be such
a fool
as to go up a
mountain,
a tower,
or a steeple.
I have tried
it.
Men still
ascend
eminences,
even to this
day, and
descending,
say they have been delighted.
But it
is a lie.
They have been miserable
the whole day.
Keep you down; and have breakfast
while the asinine
hunters
after
the picturesque
go braying
up the
hill.
William Makepiece
Thackeray
with
the
old
of short
some 20'
optional
trees
82
83
you may find
house . There
timers.
NICEVIEW BALL FIELD
(NORTH SIDE)
NICEVIEW BALL FIELD (cont.)
HAZARDS:
Loose
rock;
glass
NAMES:
Pictured
Inspiration:
Listen
to me, you who pursue
righteousness
Who seek the Lord
Look to the Rock from which you were hewn
And to the quarry
from which you were dug.
Isaiah
51:l
"No Joy
on lower
levels
in Mudville"
THE JOE ROI DER HOl'IE
STUDY COURSE
LESSON FIVE
CLIMBING
KNOWS NO
SOCIO-€CONOMIC
BOUNDARIES. (l'IY RELATI VES. IN POLAND,
GLUE STICKY RUBBER ONTO THEIR TENNIS
50 HERE·s A FEW TIPS ON HOW
SHOES.)
TO TURN YOUR RUSTY OLD OIL BURNERS
INTO HOMEMADECLil'1BING GEAR.
REl'IEJ1B€R OUR MOTTO;
CLIMBS AR€ MADE, NOT BOUGHT.
-JOE-
/
((
DESCRIPTION:
If you're
as good at softball
or hardball
as some
of my students
are,
you'll
want to bring
climbing
shoes here.
After
striking
out at the plate
or in
the bleachers,
try some climbs
in right
field.
Or
better
yet,
get up there
and steal
a home run from
someone.
The center
and left
fields
are too flaky
high
to be much fun.
There
are
8 o' of 15'
climbable
face in right
field.
Most are beginner's
climbs,
but some challenging
moves can be found.
PARKING BRAKE CABLE - CAN BE USED TO WIRE HARDWARE. SUCH AS
WHEEL CHOCKS. AND TUBES CUT FROM PIPES.
SNOWBRUSH - FOR CLEANING THE CLIMBING SURFACE.
RABBIT JACK - FRIEND.
DIRECTIONS:
EQUIPMENT:
Take Federal
(which
runs
across
Bridge to Allegheny
Center Mall and
West North Avenue and up the hill)
blocks
from
North
Avenue
make
the
Henderson.
Go 1/4 mile until
Apt." sign on your left.
Turn left
the end.
Turn left
downhill
to ball
*Bouldering
*Top roping
*Bats,
balls
SET UP:
Top roping
TIPS:
Climbing
and traversing
available
and gloves
off
is
the
6th
Street
continue
across
.
A couple
of
a right
onto
"Castle
Luxury
there
and go to
field.
SEAT BELTS - 2 INCH WEBBING.
TIRES - USE FOR FIXED PROTECTION AND COVERING SHARP ROCKS AT
THE BASE OF THE CLIMB.
SEAT BELT ENO PLATE - BELAY PLATE.
BATTERY CABLES - FUSED WIRE NUTS.
mostly
GENERAL NUTS AND BOLTS - GENERAL NUTS AND BOLTS.
trees
possible
even
during
weekend
games.
[The above
84
not
intended
85
for
actual
use]
JIM'S
JIM'S QUARRY
(NORTH SIDE)
DESCRIPTION:
QUARRY (cont.)
DIRECTIONS:
Exit Beaver Aven ue in the North side up the ramp to
Rt . 19.
Bear right
onto the ramp which is 19 North
(toward
Wexford) .
Contin ue straight
between
two
cemeteries
.
Af t er a couple
of blocks,
turn
right
onto Oanberry
as 19 turns
left.
Make a left
onto
Crispen.
The climbs
are on the way down the hill
on the left .
EQUIPMENT:
*Standard
top
*Chalk
*Hand Broom
SET UP:
Top roping
off
HAZARDS:
Loose
and broken
NAMES:
"Carol's
INSPIRATION :
I waited patiently
for the Lord;
And He brought
me up out of the pit of
destruction;
Out of the miry clay;
And He set my feet upon a rock making my
footsteps
firm.
Psalm 40:2
rock
roping
tree s
Crossing
Jim B. saw me sneaking
into
an abandoned
building
at work.
Thinking
he ' d find me sleeping,
he went
in later
and fou nd me doing
pull
ups on an old
pipe.
We got into a discussion
on climbing,
and he
said he climbed
a t an old quarry
when he was a kid.
This piqued my interest
and he showed me directions
in the dirt
atop an old chemical
waste
drum.
The
directions
were good and so are the climbs .
The
ones
that
come
into
immediate
view
appear
promising,
but prove
to be flaky
disappointments.
Around the bend are a couple
of 15' pieces
that
provided
a good workout.
Across the ball
field
is
another
set
of climbs
with
varying
degrees
of
difficulty.
My favorite
is on the other
side
of
the
building.
This
one has
a nice
crack
and
overhang
that
are real
fun to work on (overhangs
being a rarity
in urban climbing).
86
items
87
glass
" - behind
bleachers
SLAB
(NORTH SIDE)
SLAB (cont . )
NAMES:
"Magic
Puppet"
- direct
INSPIRATION:
were I to await
be finished.
route
perfection,
my book would
Tai T'ung
13th Century
ne v er
China
TODAY' S SHOW 15 BEING BROADCAS
T LIVE FROM THE TOP OF
BRADDOCKQUARRY. STOMPING GROUNDS OF MR. JOSEPH ROIDER. I
ASKED MR. ROIDER TO APPEAR ON MY SHOW ALONG WITH OTHER NECNAZI HATE GROUPS. BUT HE REPL IE D THAT HE HAD BETTER THINGS
TO DO THAN GAB WI TH WIMPY TALK SHOW HOSTS WHO THINK A
CARABINER I S SOMETHING YOU HUNT IN CANADA. SO WE CAME TO
~
IM.
~
'
...- ~
~~
MR. ROIDER.
ISN'T IT TRUE THAT
YOUR CLIMBING SCHOOL IS A FRONT
FOR A HATE MONGERING ANTI-ETHNIC
ORGANIZATION?
I JUST STARTED TEACHING THESE NEW GUYS TO
RAPPEL . I HAD NO IDEA THEY WERE INVOLVED
IN SUCH THINGS AND I THANK YOU FOR BRINGIN E
IT TO MY ATTENTION.
DESCRIPTION:
Protruding
from the most unlikely
location
atop the
great
North
Side
is an outcropping
of natural
stone;
approximately
30' high.
Rock of this
nature
is usually
rotten,
but somehow the slab has escaped
decay .
Better
hurry,
you may only have 500 years
or so before
it's
gone or less
if Penndot
decides
to expand the East Street
Expressway
again.
DIRECTIONS:
From North
Avenue
in the
North
Side,
go past
Allegheny
General
Hospital
(on the left).
Continue
straight,
cross
Madison
Avenue,
and
proceed
straight
on Spring
Garden Road . At the stop sign,
turn left.
Go up the hill
on Goerhing
Street.
The
slab is on the left
just
after
the stone wall.
EQUIPMENT:
*Standard
*Chalk
SET UP:
~nchor
top
off
roping
trees
88
at
LOOK WHO'S
HERE.
I
f
I WISH 1 HAD A
CHAIR TO HIT HIM
WITH.
/. ,
SINCE I ' M ON THE BOOB TUBE! !!
I ' D LIKE TO DECLARE PUBLICLY
THAT IF YOU ARE OF A DIFFERENT
ETHNIC BACKGROUNDTHAN ME•••.
items
top.
89
)
I LOVE YOU ! ! !
I
IRON CITY HANGOVER
(WEST END OVERLOOK)
IRON CITY HANGOVER(cont.)
TIPS :
Catch the fireworks
down - it's
a trip.
HAZARDS:
Glass
NAMES:
Pictured
INSPIRATION:
You can't
and loose
- "I.e.
keep
on the
4th
while
hanging
upside
rock
Pumper"
an Iron Man down!
Iron City Brewing
Co.
DEATH OF A TRADITIONALIST
-·l1~fili._
i
· V:::;:;
~
.::;~ =J
DESCRIPTION:
No lengthy
Pittsburgh
formations.
DIRECTIONS:
From the West End Circle
(from the river
side),
stay
right
thru
the underpass
and go up Steuben
Street.
At the
third
light,
turn
right
onto
Chartiers.
Continue
until
the next
intersection
and make a right
on Lorenz.
Continue
to the top of
the hill,
turn right
and bear left.
EQUIPMENT:
*Top roping and a long runner or hardware
*A shoulder
harness
is helpful
in keeping
your
out of the leaves
and glass.
*A broom or brush
is needed
to clean
glass
holds and webbing contact
areas.
SET UP:
Anchor
climbs,
but
to practice
The average
on railing
90
one of the few places
in
overhangs
on natural
rock
height
is 8'.
or place
protection
hair
from
in cracks.
91
e i>\RE.
STATE
8UiL.OiNe>
ROUTE 51 OUTCROPPING (cont.)
ROUTE 51 OUTCROPPING
(WEST END)
DESCRIPTION:
A sandstone
outcropping
about 40' high.
The face
is flaky
in some parts.
This climb
has several
nice cracks
and an overhang
to work on.
DIRECTIONS:
Exit
the
Parkway
West to Route
51 ( towards
Uniontown).
Make the first
right
at the Landmark
Sign Co.
Park in the dirt
lot on the right.
Walk
towards
the Parkway along the road.
After crossing
a short bridge,
go up thru the woods on the left
to
the railroad
tracks.
Go left
down the
tracks
approximately
35 yards.
The face
is 20' up the
hill
on your right.
EQUIPMENT:
*Top roping
*Helmets
SET UP:
Top rope from trees,
or place
below the shale layer.
TIPS:
Bring
a brush
HAZARDS:
Poison
ivy,
loose
NAMES:
"The Potato
Mantles"
CREDIT:
My friend
INSPIRATION:
On a day for living
a man will not die;
likewise
on a day for dying no head will
Gambian proverb
Rick
That
- let's
92
clean
this
dirty
near
the
Ate
speeding
Pittsburgh"
locomotives.
and
"Praying
F.
items
hardware
rocks,
top
rock.
93
escape.
COLLIER QUARRY (cont.)
COLLIER QUARRY
(COLLIER TOWNSHIP)
DESCRIPTION:
The quarry was discovered
by a friend
of mine while
his wife
and he walked
the railroad
tracks
from
Carnegie.
The bouldering
is great
and the faces to
either
side
of the main quarry
can be top roped.
These faces are 25' to 30' high and topped
by very
loose
shale.
When you continue
along
the
dirt
road,
you'll
find two pools of water.
Each pool is
backed by nice climbs.
The second pool is against
the stone
and barefoot
climbing
is possible.
If
you free
climb
you can pop off
into
the
pond.
Across the railroad
tracks
and up the road a little
bit is another
pond with some boulders
around it.
DIRECTIONS:
Take the Carnegie
Exit off I-79
and bear
towards
Oakdale.
Turn left
onto the dirt
road,
just
past
and across
from Collier
Stone Co.
94
EQUIPMENT:
•standard
items.
*Chalk
•Helmets
top
roping
SET UP:
As stated
in the description,
the bouldering
is
great
but if you wish to top rope the higher
climbs
along
the ridge,
you can hang dog to place
the
anchor for the top rope below the fragile
shale.
HAZARDS:
Poison
NAMES:
My favorite
bouldering
name is painted
on) .
this
and a nice climb
HISTORY:
This piece
operations
INSPIRATION:
Self-conquest
ivy and loose
items
and/or
lead
climbing
stone
problem is called
"Son of Sam" is
as well.
"Sam"
adjacent
of land was abandoned
as a quarry
were moved across
the street.
is
95
the greatest
Plato
of victories.
(the
to
when
SANKEYQUARRY (cont.
SANKEYQUARRY
(SOUTH SIDE)
DESCRIPTION:
The outcropping
here is two tiered
with the upper
tier
having the better
climbs.
The faces are 20 to
25' high.
The lower
tier
is behind
the tennis
courts.
To get to the upper tier,
take the path
that
begins
in the far
left
corner
of the
left
court.
The climbs
here are dirty
and have loose
stone
on some faces,
but I had a lot of fun here
along with a good work out .
Several
proved harder
than they looked.
DIRECTIONS:
Take East Carson
to the South Side.
South
21s t Street.
Leave your car at
the end of the street.
The climbs
behind and above the tennis
courts.
EQUIPMENT:
*Standard
*Chalk
SET UP:
We top
top
roped
roping
off
96
the
stone,
dirt,
of the faces
HAZARDS:
Loose
couple
here.
NAMES:
Pictured
Alkers"
(not
the
and poison
but there's
INSPIRATION:
At the sound of the horseman and bowman every
flees;
They go into the thickets
and climb among the
rocks.
Jeremiah
4:29
"Three
Dollars
on its left.
Turn onto
the park at
are
located
items
trees
)
best).
97
a
ivy.
still
Head"
I cleaned
a
cherry
stone
and
"st.
Bon
city
WESTINGHOUSEBRIDGE CRAGS
(BRADDOCK)
QUARRYPARK
(BRADDOCK/EASTPITTSBURGH)
DESCRIPTION:
I spotted
this
outcropping
from
Westinghouse
Bridge.
Upon investigation,
it
seemed
to be
climbable
by lead
climbing
techniques
or by
hang dogging
and placing
protection
to top rope
from.
When I came back some months later
with the
proper equipment
and some students,
we were stopped
by a railroad
employee.
I explained
that
all we
needed to do was cross
his bridge
to get to the
base
of the
hill
from
which
the
outcropping
projected.
He told
us it was okay to climb the
rock, but we couldn't
cross his bridge.
He went on
to tell
us of a great place to climb down the road.
Following
his directions
we came to a very crumbly
shale
outcropping,
which you won't
find
in this
book.
DIRECTIONS:
Follow
directions
to Quarry
Park
(Braddock)
then
continue
down into
the valley
to the
railroad
tracks.
Where the
railroad
bridges
cross
the
river,
you can see the outcropping
halfway
up the
hill
to the left.
EQUIPMENT:
*Standard
top
*Lead climbing
*Chalk
roping
gear
SET UP:
See DESCRIPTION
TIPS :
'I'ry accessing
INSPIRATION:
One never rises
so high as when one does
know where one is going.
Cromwell
the
area
items
DESCRIPTION:
A good place
to warm up for the larger
Braddock
Quarry
mostly
short
climbs,
which
can
be
bouldered
or top roped.
The faces
are 25' high,
but several
are pretty
dirty
and grown over.
We
cleared
a couple
places
to climb and if everyone
cleans
it up a bit,
each successive
assault
will
yield more climbs .
DIRECTIONS:
Take 376 East (Parkway East) to exit
10 onto Route
30 East.
Stay on 30 East for about
four miles,
until
reaching
the
Westinghouse
Bridge.
Just
before
the bridge,
turn
right
at the A-Plus
Mini
Market.
Make the first
left
onto Grandview,
then
the first
right
onto Bessemer.
From Bessemer make
a left
onto south Main Street.
The Park is on your
left
as you go down the hill.
EQUIPMENT:
*Standard
*Chalk
SET UP:
Trees
HAZARDS:
Foul
NAMES:
Pictured
INSPIRATION:
It's
and
from above.
not
roping
provide
balls
items
anchors
into
the
along
left
the
field
top.
stands
- "Crackerjack"
all
it,
98
top
it
just mind over
don't matter.
ozz
99
matter,
if
you mind
BRADDOCKQUARRY
(EAST PITTSBURGH)
DESCRIPTION:
This
area
offers
some of the
best
variety
of
climbable
rock formations
in the city.
The climbs
here have a wide variety
of mantles,
ceilings
and
degrees
of inclination
.
The quarry
has 50' high
sandstone,
with a shale
layer
on top.
The shale
ranges
from l' to 20' in thickness.
Lead climbing
is the best approach
here,
as it removes the hazard
of contacting
loose shale.
Top roping
is possible
in the sections
where the
shale is thin.
In most of these places
the absence
of a bombproof anchor near the edge can be overcome
by running
an extra
rope (or two for added safety)
from the nearest
trees.
In other
places
there
are
cracks
in the solid
stone,
where protection
can be
placed.
Never place
protection
in the
fragile
shale
or in stone
that
sounds
hollow
when rapped
upon .
Hang dogging
is another
way to set up for
top roping.
A climber
can rap down from the top
100
BRADDOCKQUARRY (cont.)
DESCRIPTION:
(cont . )
and place bolts
below the
access
to the top is the
the face.
A denser
path
right.
DIRECTIONS:
Take 376 East
(Parkway
East)
to Exit
10 onto 30
4 miles,
until
you reach
East all
the way, about
the
Westinghouse
Bridge.
Just
before
the
Westinghouse
Bridge,
turn right
at the A-Plus Mini
Market.
Make the first
left
onto Grandview,
then
the first
right
onto Bessemer.
Continue
straight
thru the traffic
light.
Make a right
at the dead
end.
Turn left
at the end of this
short
street.
Go across
the bridge.
The rocks
will
be on your
immediate
right.
EQUIPMENT:
*Standard
*Or lead
*Helmets
*Chalk
SET UP:
See DESCRIPTION
TIPS:
?he use of lead
number of climbs
HAZARDS:
Mutant Poison Ivy!
This place
is a sanctuary
for
the noxious
stuff.
I recommend climbing
in the
late
winter
and fall.
Even in its
dormant
state,
the ivy is potent .
shale layer.
The easiest
path to the left
side of
is also
found to the far
top roping
items
climbing
equipment
climbing
available.
equipment
maximizes
the
Loose
rock.
In addition
to
the
shale,
the
sandstone
contains
plenty
of virgin
stone,
which
threatens
the climber's
and belayer's
life
and
limb.
Helmets
and common rock
sense
are highly
recommended .
NAMES:
Pictured
HISTORY:
By all appearances
this
area was once
later
became a coal and cinder
storage
l>oro.
CREDIT:
Special
thanks
from Beaverton,
our attention.
"Montezuma's
Revenge"
a quarry
bin for
to Tom M. - wrote to me all
Oregon to bring
this
great
101
and
the
the way
area to
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
BRADDOCK
QUARRY(cont.)
INSPIRATION:
Well I'm hangin'
on to a solid rock
Made before the foundation
of the world
And I won't let go and I can't go,
Won't let go and I can't
let go,
Won't let go and I can't
let go, no more!
Bob Dylan, "So lid Rock"
LITTLE IS KNOWNABOUT THE LIFE OF DR. JOSEPH
ROIDER. LEGENDS SAY HE WAS BORN IN 1946 JUST
AFTER AMERICA' S VICTORY IN WORLDWAR II ANO
THE BEGINNING OF THE NUCLEAR AGE. ACADEMIC
RECORDS INDICATE THAT HE HOLDS DEGREES FROM
THE UNIVERSITY OF PITTSBURGH.
ST . VINCENT
COLLEGE, AND THE SCHOOL OF HARDKNOX. OTHER
SOURCES HAVE INDICATED BRIEF TENURES AS A
' STRENGTH COACH, FOOTBALL PLAYER, AND BODY
BUILDER.
AFTER A PURELY POLITICAL SCANDAL
----=--INVOLVING
DRUG TESTING IN WHICH HE WAS
DISMISSED FROM ANY FURTHER INVOLVEMENT WITH
' THOSE DAMN BUREAUCRATS' , JOE WENT ON TD
FIND THE ' ROIDER SCHOOL OF URBAN ADVENTURE:
A SELF AVOWEDRECLUSE. JOE PREFERS TO SPEAK
THROUGH HIS CLIMBING AND THIS BOOK WHICH
HARKS HIS FIRST EFFORT IN WRITING.
I
f
1..
102
I
.I i
,~
INDEX AND RATINGS
BLIGHT - Something
that
impairs
climbers
on the law of gravity.
BOMBER - Grand,
big,
absolute
.
BUILDERING - A specialized
climbing
man-made structures.
or destroys.
As in
As in
Bucket . "
branch
"Bomber
of
climbing
the
that
effect
of
focuses
on
ALL RATINGS IN THIS BOOK ARE BASED ON MY EXPERIENCES AND ANY
DISPUTES SHOULD BE BROUGHT TO MY ATTENTION.
EACH CLIMB IS RATED
ACCORDING TO THE BEST ROUTE AS IT APPEARS ON SITE, REGARDLESS OF
THE INDIVIDUAL CLIMBS ARE
WHETHER IT I S A CLIMB OR TRAVERSE.
RATED ACCORDING TO THEIR DIFFICULTY
AND OVERALL APPEAL AS
FOLLOWS:
DIFFICULTY
1-EASY
2-LESS EASY
3-MODERATELY DIFFICULT
4-DIFFICULT
5-VERY DIFFICULT
CHIPPING - Creating
a hold by chipping
away at the rock.
Frowned
upon by most climbers.
It is my opinion
that
chippers
should
be
buried
alive
beneath
six tons
of stone
with their
tools
and be
made to chip their
way to freedom.
DYNO(S) - The repetition
in an effort
to gain
dynamic movement.
FAIRY P~S
of climbing
strength
and
- Pittsburghese,
for
movements
proficiency.
Lycra
on the same route
Any extended,
a damp or oily
RATREAD - A climbing
ROTTEN - Climbing
PAGE
R.R. BRIDGE
AUTO BRIDGE
5-BEST
4-BETTER
2
4
ASPINWALL
R.R.
BRIDGE
3-GOOD
6
SHARPSBURG
RESTAURANT
2-GOOD
78
NORTH HILLS
NORTH PARK
VALUE CITY
MITCHELL'S
CADILLAC
2-GOOD
2-GOOD
2-GOOD
2-GOOD
8
74
75
77
SEWICKLEY
QUARRY
BOULDER PARK
5 -BEST
4-GOOD
80
82
NORTH SIDE
LONG WALL
R.R. BRIDGE
N.S. WALL
WEST PARK
NICEVIEW
QUARRY
SLAB
3-GOOD
3-BETTER
2-BETTER
3-GOOD
3-GOOD
4-GOOD
4-GOOD
10
12
14
15
84
freak.
surface
A hold
that
is
loose
or disintegrating.
which
offers
minimum
security
for
of leg
sewing
a
a
brief
TREMBLE POWDER - Chalk.
URBAN - Relating
BEST
HARMARVILLE
The
surfaces.
SEWING MACHINE LEG - The involuntary
muscular
response
muscles
causing
an up and down movement
similar
to
machine;
caused
by exhaustion
or nervous
tension
.
TIME BOMB moment.
BETTER
RATING
FRO~ DOOR - Occurs
when you lose
all
contact
with the climbing
surface
on one side
of your body, while maintaining
contact
with
the other
producing
the door swinging
effect.
Also referred
to
as the back door,
screen
door or barn door.
to
GOOD
NORTH
clothing.
FRAGGLE ROLE - Refers
to drainage
holes
in man-made walls.
use of fraggle
holes
is frowned upon by advanced
climbers.
GREASE - Refers
APPEAL
to,
characteristic
104
of,
or constituting
a city.
105
86
88
WEST
AREA
WEST END
MCKEES ROCKS
CORAOPOLIS
CRAFTON
NAME
EAST
RATING
PAGE
AREA
NAME
RATING
PAGE
SIGN THEM UP
BRIDGE
BEGINNER' S CIRCLE
IRON CITY
RT. 51
3 - BETTER
5 - BETTER
2 - GOOD
5 - BEST
5-BETTER
16
17
19
90
92
OAKLAND
WALL OF FAME
CMU BRIDGE
SCHENLEY BRIDGE
PANTHER BRIDGE
TROLL BRIDGE
2 - GOOD
4 - BETTER
5-BETTER
4 - BETTER
1- BETTER
N. 51 R . R. BRIDGE
45
47
49
51
52
3-BETTER
20
EAST LIBERTY
BLUE BRIDGE
1 - BETTER
22
R.R. BRIDGE
STATE POLICE
5 - BEST
5-BEST
53
55
RESERVOIR
4 - BEST
24
HIGHLAND PARK
PGH.
2 - GOOD
57
BRADDOCK
WESTINGHOUSE CRAGS
QUARRY PARK
QUARRY
UNRATED
3-GOOD
5 - BEST
98
99
100
HOMESTEAD
WALL
HIGH LEVEL BRIDGE
3 - BEST
4 - BETTER
58
60
4-BETTER
4-BETTER
4 - BETTER
5 - BETTER
2 - GOOD
76
37
40
41
43
zoo
SOUTH
I
AREA
CARNEGIE
HEIDELBERG
COLLIER
NAME
RATING
PAGE
BBQ
CRICKRAT
5 - GOOD
3- BETTER
62
26
R.R.
3 - GOOD
28
4-BETTER
94
BRIDGE
QUARRY
BRIDGEVILLE
RAMMMETALS
2 - GOOD
66
GREENTREE
THE ZOO
NURSEFINDERS
2 - GOOD
2 - GOOD
30
64
SELDOM SEEN
GALLERIA
CHURCH
GINNY LOU
J.C . PENNEY
3 - GOOD
2 - GOOD
1- BETTER
2 - GOOD
3 - BEST
35
67
69
71
72
WELSH WALL
LONG WALL
STATION SQUARE
SANKEY QUARRY
3- GOOD
2- GOOD
3 -GOOD
4 - GOOD
32
33
34
SOUTH HILLS
SOUTH SIDE
DOWNTOWN
DOWNTOWN
CATHEDRAL
PILLARS
3 BRIDGES
ARMSTRONG
EAST STREET
96
107