INTRODUCTION
Needlework is a term that is used for the handicrafts of decorative sewing and textiles and art.
Anything that uses needle for construction can be called needlework.
Need work tools and equipment are an important aspect as they enable to achieve best results
in fabric construction and admirable appearance of an article. Needlework tools and equipments are
cardinal. To that effect, appropriate tools and equipments have to be selected and used correctly so
as to achieve the intended purpose.
Also having the correct equipments and tools makes the task easier so there is need for every
dresser maker to keep his or her sewing basket with appropriate tools. Therefore, it is important to
choose good quality equipments so that they will last for many years if looked after properly.
In line to that, this assignment is designed to discuss the needlework tools and equipments and
the following are some of the needwork tools and equipments
NEEDLEWORK TOOLS: These includes pin, cushions, needle, measuring card, tape measure, thimble,
seam pickers or seam rippers, tailors chalk, tracing wheel and carbon paper, scissors.
1. DRESSMAKERS PINS
Dressmaker’s pins should be fine and sharp so as not to leave marks on garments. The best pins are
those which are made of stainless steel and thus are rust-proof and of assorted lengths pins can be
stored in a small box, but it is more convenient if they are kept in a pin –cushion;
2. TAPE MEASURE
A tape measure should be chosen for taking body measurements and should be of good quality. It
should not be of a material that stretches. A good tape measure should have the following qualities;
 It should be fitted with metal protection at both ends to keep it flat when measuring and
prevent fraying.
 Should be plastic-coated to prevent fraying and stretching.
 The gradations should be clearly marked in both inches and centimetres or millimetres going
up to 60 inches and i50 cm.
 Should have good length and be kept rolled up in a clean, dry place when not in use.
3. MEASURING CARD
This is stiff card made of hard plastic or cardboard. It is very handy in measuring seam allowances
and hem depths or measuring short distances. One can be improvised from Manila paper.
Lengths on the cardboard should be marked clearly and notched at right angles for easy in marking
measurements.
4. SEAM RIPPER
An unpicker ( or seam picker) is useful for undoing machines stitches as its steel blade cuts through
them easily without damaging the fabric. It has a sharp point for picking out stitches. It can also be
used for cutting button- holes using its sharp edge.
The ripper should have a cover to protect the sharp edge when not in use.
5. TRACKING WHEEL
This is used together with tailor’s chalk, carbon paper in transferring pattern marking on to fabric
when using paper patterns. The wheels and handles should be firmly fixed.
6. TYPES OF NEEDLES.
A variety of needles should be kept in the sewing kit. There should always be a supply of the various
hand-sewing needles and machine needles in the sewing basket
Hand sewing needles are available in different sizes and are numbered according to their thickness.
A high number means a fine needle where as a low number means a coarse needle. The most useful
sizes are 6-9.
The following are needles that are commonly used in hand sewing.
SHARP NEEDLES:
They are of medium size length and have round eyes and are used for ordinary sewing. They can be
used on most fabrics.
BETWEEN NEEDLES
These are short needles and have round eyes but are generally shorter than sharps. Betweens are
mainly used for guilting but can also be used in the place of sharps when working with heavier
fabrics.
DARNING NEEDLES
These are long with large eyes for easy threading of wool. Have eyes and are sold in varieties of
sizes. Thin ones are used for coarse fabrics while fine ones are for finer material. When choosing
needles, one should consider the following ;
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The needle should be straight and firm.
Choose those with smooth and large enough eyes for easy threading.
They should be rust free
The size should correspond with the weight of fabrics so as not to leave marks.
CREWEL OR EMBROIDERY
These are embroidery needles with large eyes for easy threading of embroidery thread. They are of
the same length as sharp.
MACHINE NEEDLE
These are available in different sizes according to the fabrics to be stitched. These needles should be
stored in a small box or a needle case.
7. TYPES OF SCISSORS
The following pairs of scissors are necessary in garment making or construction
CUTING-OUT SCISSORS/SHEARS: should have long sharp blades (15-22 cm long) which cut smoothly
and evenly. They should be comfortable to hold for example those with plastics handles.
These should be used for cutting fabric only, and should be made of rust free material. The blade
should be at least 15 cm long. One blade should be narrow, to slip under the fabric and the other
heavier, to weigh down the fabric. The handles should have a smaller round hole for the thumb and
a large oval hole for the first three fingers. They should be sharp and firmly hinged.
The cutting-out scissors must not be used for other purposes, like cutting hair, and should not be
dropped. They should be oiled regularly on the hinges and always stored safely after use.
BUTTON HOLE SCISSORS: these should have small blades which are sharp and well pointed. These
should have small to cut even-sized button holes.
EMBROIDERY SCISSORS: These should have fine blades with sharp points for cutting off threads and
for close trimming work. They have pointed blades and an easy adjustable screw. They are useful for
fine embroidery work and cutting and are also used for snipping and cutting button holes.
Embroidery scissors should not be used for cutting hair or finger nails.
PINKING SHEARS: These are very heavy scissors with large blades that cut a serrated edge ( zigzag)
to neaten the raw edges of a fabric, especially if it frays easily.
Pinking shears have the same qualities as cutting out scissors. They are used for cutting and finishing
edges of fabrics.
NEEDLEWORK EQUIPMENT
IRONS
These are used in pressing and ironing work in process. Types of iron include charcoal, electric,
steam, gas and flat irons. The most commonly used are the electric and charcoal irons.
ELECTRIC IRONS
They are more convenient to use than flat irons. They only need to be plugged into an electric socket
in order for them to heat up, and the temperature is easily and accurately regulated. Thus they can
be used on all types of fabric without difficulties. However they are some electric irons which do not
have a temperature control knob and therefore need to be carefully as with flat irons. Always switch
off an electric iron after use. Do not allow the flex to trail.
Keep the flex in good repair never allow the inside wires to be exposed as this is very dangerous. Do
not wrap the flex around the iron while it is still hot. Allow iron to cool before storing it. Do not use a
knife to remove dirty from the ironing surface as this may damage the mental. To remove burn
starch, use brown paper sprinkled with salt or a moist cloth with whitening or vim. Polish the surface
with a soft cloth.
FLAT(OR SAD IRON) AND CHARCOAL IRONS: Are available in different sizes and are made of
polished iron. They can be used where there is no electricity as they are heated on a stove. However,
the temperature of these iron s cannot be regulated accurately and thus they are best used in fabrics
which are not easily damaged by heat (e.g. cotton) Also several flats will have to be in used at one
time as the iron will not cool when they stove. They iron must be picked up using an iron holder ( a
padded cloth) as the handle becomes hot. Avoid putting the iron directly on an open fire or gas
flames as these will cause the ironing surface to become dirty and roughened.
Before using the iron, rub it with fine sand or powdered bath brick, the wipe the surface with a rag
and then with another rag wrapped around some candle wax, this will make the iron glide easily
over starched items. Lastly, rub well with an old duster. For charcoal iron, ensure that screws are
firmly fixed.
ELECTRIC STEAM IRON: electric iron which contains water that is that is then heated to produce
steam. This steam comes out of holes in the base of iron and dampens the cloth to make ironing
easier. The water is poured into the iron through an opening in the tap of the iron. When a steam
iron is not in use, any remaining water should be poured out as it may cause the iron to rust on the
inside. Other than this, steam irons should be given the same care and cleaning as other electric
irons. An iron stand is also needed for putting an iron which is made of galvanised iron
AN IRONING BOARD
Should be adjusted height to avoid fatigue and poor posture when in use should be well padded and
a removovable cover for washing. Square asbestos should be attached for placing the hot iron. It is
used for ironing double garments and pleated garments. Bold up the ironing board after use. Keep
the cover in good condition and if it is removable, wash it when necessary.
Where possible it should have a sleeve board for pressing or ironing sleeves and for pressing small
seams and darts. When not in use, it should be folded and stored well.
TABLE AND CHAIR
These are used by the tailor during the sewing process. The table is used as ironing area or as well as
a surface for placing fabrics and drawing or cutting patterns. The chair is sat on by the tailor when
making garments.
STORAGE FACILITIES
These are important for storing garments that is unfinished articles and fabrics. Storage facilities
include needlework box drawers, cupboard or ward drops and a dressing mirror or dressing table.
These should be made available for storing needle work tools and garments
An adequate supply of hangers for both finished and partly finished garments should also be
provided. The storage facilities should be clean and the hangers should be rust free and with a
smooth surface.
THE SEWING MACHINE
TYPES OF SEWING MACHINES.
A sewing machine is equipment which is very indispensable in any sewing activity, whether it is to be
repairing, altering clothes or recycling articles, special care should be given and regular maintenance
is needed because it costs a lot when it breaks down. A lot of knowledge of its party and functions
will enable you to determine the cause of the trouble when breaks down.
There are a wide range of sewing machines available on the market. Sewing machines fall into three
categories, namely; hand machines, treadle machines and electric machines. There are those that
only make straight stitches while others can be adjusted to sewing their needle zigzagly. These are
known as swing needle machines.
Although straight stitches are easier for a beginner, swing needle machines have more advantages.
This is because they have attachments and built-in devices which help in providing several functions.
Such functions include making button holes, darning, edge , finishing, embroidery work, piping, blind
Heming etc
HAND SEWING MACHINE
This is portable and convenient when placed on a table. it is cheaper than treadle or electric
machines. However, sewing is slower as only one hand can be used to control the material. Also
labour is needed to turn the handle to put the machine into motion
TREADLE SEWING MACHINE
This is easy to use as both hands are free to control the material being sewn. Hover, it takes up space
and cannot be moved easily as it is usually heavy, it is more expensive than a hand sewing machine.
Also labour is needed to operate the foot pepal.
THE ELECTRIC SEWING MACHINE
The electric sewing machines have many advantages. The machine can be portable or fixed to a
stand. It leaves both hands of the user free to control the material. No labour is required as the
machine is run by electricity. It sews faster than the other two machines. Also, new machines can do
a variety of stitches and tasks for example sew on buttons and make button holes. However, it is the
most expensive type of sewing machine.
PARTS OF THE SEWING MACHINE.
It is important to understand the main parts of the sewing machine in order to be able to handle it
properly. Good care and maintenance brings about efficiency and long life to the machine. Although
there are various models and makes of sewing machines, the main parts and basic principles by
which they operate are the same.
1.TREADLE GUIDES
It is used to guide the thread from the spool pin through the take-up lever and then to the tention
disc and eventually to the needle, keeping the thread tight all the time.
2.TENSION DISC
They keep the thread tight stitched and control the feeding of the thread to the needle
3.SPOOL PIN
Holds the veal of the top thread.
4. BOBBIN CASE
Holds the bobbin and regulates the bobbin thread tension.
5. BOBBIN
Holds the botton thread
6.TAKE-UP LEAVE
Moves downwards to slacken the thread while the stitch is being formed and moves upwards to
tighten the thread when the stitches has been completed
7.NEEDLE BAR
The needle is clamped into the needle bar and moves downwards to make top thread through the
fabric with every stitch
8. PRESSER
Holds the fabric firmly in position during stitching
9.PRESSER FOOT LEVER
Raises and lowers the presser foot
9.FEED DOG
It is directly under the presser foot and feeds the fabric backwards after each stitch is made
10. THE PLATE
Fits around the feed dog and has a hole through which the thread needle passes to form stitches.
11.SLIDE PLATE
Covers the bobbin case it is slide open
12. BOBBIN WINDER OR SPINDLE
Used to wind the thread around the bobbin
13. STITCH LENGTH REGULATOR
Sets the length of the stitches and makes them even and equal in size
14.STITCH WIDTH REGULATOR
Sets the width of the zigzag stitch
15.HAND WHEEL AND HANDLE OR HAND
Controls the up and down movement of the needle and needle bar
16. HAND WHEEL SCREW (WHICH IS ON THE WHEEL)
It stops the needle from moving when loosened and starts it moving again when tightened
17. PRESSURE REGULATOR
Controls the pressure of the presser foot
CARE AND CLEANING OF THE SEWING MACHINE.
1. Place the machine securely on a table top which is positioned near a window or another
source of light if necessary, dust before use.
2. Clean the machine after use by removing any thread which has gathered on the bobbin case
holder and plate.
3. Clean the teeth on the gears using a tooth pick to remove or loosen any dirty.
4. Oil all movable parts regularly.
5. Cover the machine when it is not in use and put it in a safe, dry place.
6. The machine should be serviced at least once a year by a good mechanic