MCKENZIE BLAZER page 1 of 4 EASY FRONT MEDIUM CHALLENGING OPTIONAL PATCH POCKET EXPERIENCED SEWER BACK 93.0 101.0 37.4 73.2 60.7 35.9 Waist Hip Shoulder Breadth Centre Back Length Sleeve Length Sleeve Girth 36 5/8 39 3/4 14 3/4 28 7/8 23 7/8 14 1/8 Waist Hip Shoulder Breadth Centre Back Length Sleeve Length Sleeve Girth 80 cm / 32 in 90 cm / 36” 16 1/2 25 1/8 30 17 1/8 49 5/8 46 1/2 47 1/4 14 41.9 63.7 76.2 43.4 126.0 118.0 120.0 14 17 18 25 3/4 30 3/4 18 1/4 55 7/8 52 3/4 53 1/2 20 45.8 65.5 78.0 46.4 142.0 134.0 136.0 20 Sizes 12 – 20 17 1/2 25 1/2 30 1/2 18 53 1/2 50 3/8 51 1/8 18 44.3 64.9 77.4 45.8 136.0 128.0 130.0 18 1.4 m / 1.5 yds Sizes 12 – 20 2.5 m / 2.75 yds 25 3/8 30 1/4 17 1/2 51 5/8 48 3/8 49 1/4 16 43.1 64.3 76.8 44.6 131.0 123.0 125.0 16 18 5/8 26 31 18 1/2 58 1/4 55 1/8 55 7/8 22 47.3 66.1 78.6 47.0 148.0 140.0 142.0 22 19 1/4 26 1/4 31 1/8 18 3/4 60 5/8 57 1/2 58 1/4 24 48.8 66.7 79.2 47.6 154.0 146.0 148.0 24 20 3/8 26 3/4 31 5/8 19 1/4 65 3/8 62 1/4 63 28 51.8 67.9 80.4 48.8 166.0 158.0 160.0 28 1.8 m / 2 yds Sizes 22 – 30 2.8 m / 3 yds Sizes 22 – 30 19 3/4 26 1/2 31 3/8 19 63 59 7/8 60 5/8 26 50.3 67.3 79.8 48.2 160.0 152.0 154.0 26 21 27 31 7/8 19 1/2 67 3/4 64 5/8 65 3/8 30 53.3 68.5 81.0 49.4 172.0 164.0 166.0 30 Helpful Hints x Cut out the pattern taking note of the grains and instructions written on the pattern pieces as this will assist in the construction of your blazer. x Seam allowances are 1cm (3/8”) and 6mm (1/4") internal seams (e.g. neck & collar). All seam allowances are marked on the pattern with a dashed line. x This pattern has optional full lining pieces and two types of pockets – 1). Jetted pocket with a pocket flap and 2). Patch pocket with lining. Decide which you prefer before cutting. x If using the jetted pocket, fuse a piece of stabilizer to the back of the pocket markings which are marked on the pattern; approximately 5cm (2”) wide. x If you choose fully lined option we suggest that you fully fuse the front panels of the jacket. x Pin the pattern to the fabric, mark with chalk and cut out the blazer. x Fuse the noted pieces. Block fusing is recommended, this is done by fusing the fabric before cutting. x Shoulder pads are optional. Construction FOR THE UNLINED BLAZER COLLAR. 1. With right sides facing sew the centre back seam of the under collar together, press the seam open. Lay the top collar on top of the under collar with right sides together, sew the outer edges and the All Sizes Fabric width Fuse Sizes 4 – 10 1.2 m / 1.3 yds 148 cm / 58” 16 24 7/8 29 3/4 16 5/8 47 5/8 44 1/2 45 1/4 12 40.7 63.1 75.6 42.2 121.0 113.0 Fabric width Lining Estimate 12 115.0 2 m / 2.2 yds 15 1/2 24 5/8 29 1/2 16 1/8 45 5/8 42 1/2 43 1/4 10 39.5 62.5 75.0 41.0 116.0 108.0 110.0 148 cm / 58” 15 1/8 24 3/8 29 1/4 15 5/8 43 3/4 40 1/2 41 3/8 8 38.3 61.9 74.4 39.8 111.0 103.0 105.0 Sizes 4 – 10 14 5/8 24 1/8 29 15 1/4 41 3/4 38 5/8 39 3/8 6 37.1 61.3 73.8 38.6 106.0 98.0 100.0 10 Fabric width Fabric Estimate 37 3/8 Bust Finished Measurements (inches): Size 4 95.0 Bust 8 Trims 6 Fabric Suggestion Finished Measurements (cm): Size 4 Linen, w ool, crepe. 7 x Buttons 25 mm (40 Line) 6 x Sleeve buttons 17mm (26 Line) - OPTIONAL 1 pair of soft wadding shoulder pads - OPTIONAL McKenzie Blazer page 2 of 4 When it comes to tailoring the silhouette is all about the slouch- bringing a bohemian feel to even the smartest of suiting’s. This longline blazer has a full lining pattern but is designed so it can be made without a lining if you choose. There is also the choice of either a lined patch pocket or a double jetted pocket with a pocket flap. This blazer is so versatile and suitable for all occasions, wear it with your favourite jeans and sand shoes or dress it up and head out to dinner. MCKENZIE BLAZER JETT POCKETS. Sew a large stitch as a guide between the jett pocket markings. This makes it easier to sew the jets evenly. See diagram A. With the right side together sew one edge of each jett to each side of the line stitched, cut through the centre to within 1cm/ 3/8” of each end then diagonally to the corners, press open the seams so as one seam goes into the jet and the other is pressed below the seam, pull both jets to the inside and sink stitch (stitch in the ditch) only the lower jett, and each end of both lower and upper jett. Stitch the pocket bag to the seam of the jett. See diagrams B and C. Insert the pocket flap between the two jetts and pin the pocket flap seam to upper jett seam. See diagram D. Pin the pocket bearer to the inside stitch across the top of the jett stitching the pocket flap and and pocket bearer in place. See diagram E. Pin the pocket bearer to the pocket bag and stitch around to create a pocket. See diagram e. PATCH POCKET With right sides together sew the top edge of pocket lining to the top edge of the pocket leaving an opening so as the pocket can be turned out. See markings on pattern. Fold the pocket top over at the notches and sew around the edges of the pocket. Clip the corners and turn out to the right side, press the pocket, pin to the front of the jacket, once in place stitch around the outer edges. BODY. With right sides together sew the centre back seam. Sew the front and back bodies together at the side seams followed by sewing the front and back shoulder seams together. Sew the collar to the neckline; be sure to follow the notches. With right sides together join the front and back shoulder seams and the side seams of the facings. With right sides together pin the facing to the body, sandwiching the collar in between the body and the facing, once in place stitch on. Sew a flat stitch close to the sea on the side of the facing. Start at the front hem and sew the flat stitch up to the break line, then reverse the side of the flat stitch as we don’t want a flat stitch showing on the revere. Sew a flat stitch around the back neck facing. With right sides together sew across the hem of the front body to the hem of the front facing, clip the corner and turn out to the right side. POCKET FLAPS. With right sides together sew main and lining pieces of the pocket flaps together leaving the top edge open, turn out to the right side and sew a stay-stitch to the top of the flap. Press and put aside. COMPLETION 15. Blind stitch the hem of the body and sleeves. 16. Use the markings on the pattern to button hole and button the front; note the two upper buttons are a feature only, they do not require buttonholes. There are two buttonholes on the right front and only one on the top edge of the left front, this is for the underneath jigger button - see pattern markings. 17. Sew the buttons top the sleeve seam as marked on the pattern. 18. Press your new Blazer. SLEEVE. 13. With right sides together sew the top sleeve to the under sleeve, then sew the under-sleeve seams together, run a large stitch around the head of the sleeve and slightly ease in, this makes it easier to set the sleeve into the armhole. Pin the sleeve into the armhole, once in place stitch the sleeves into the armholes, follow the notches. 14. Stitch the armhole facings to the armholes. (Unlined version only) If using shoulder pads hand stitch them in between the body and the facing in line with the shoulder seam with the thickest end of the shoulder pad placed at the armhole edge in line with the sleeve head seam. 12. 10. 11. 9. 8. 7. 6. 5. 4. 3. 2. short ends of the collars together, clip the corners and turn out to the right side, sew a flat stitch the outer edge of the collar on the side of the under collar. Press the collar and put aside. page 3 of 4 15 13 2 17 14 18 3 19 7 5 11 9 11. Top sleeve lining - cut 1 pair 12. Under sleeve lining - cut 1 pair 13. Pocket flap - cut 2 main & 2 fuse 14. Pocket flap lining - cut 2 lining 15. Pocket jets - cut 4 main & 4 fuse 16. Pocket bearer - cut 1 pair lining 17. Pocket bag - cut 1 pair lining 18. Optional patch pocket - cut 2 main 19. Optional patch pocket lining - cut 2 lining 4 6 Vist: www.youtube.com/c/StyleArcSewingPatterns ** For a tutorial on how the sew the pockets ** 1. Front facing - cut 1 pair main & 1 pair fuse 2. Front lining - cut 1 pair lining 3. Front - cut 1 pair main 4. Back - cut 1 pair main 5. Back lining - cut 1 pair lining 6. Back neck facing - cut 1 pair main & fuse 7. Under collar - cut 1 pair main & 1pair fuse 8. Top collar - cut 1 main & 1 fuse 9. Top sleeve - cut 1 pair main 10. Under sleeve - cut 1pair main 16 1 8 12 10 Construction FOR THE LINED BLAZER LINED JACKET; 19. Use the above construction with the exception of NO. 14 & 15. 20. With right sides together sew the centre back seam of the lining pieces, sew the side seams of the front and back lining pieces together and press. 21. With the right sides together sew the top sleeves to the under sleeves, leave a small opening in sleeve to enable the completed jacket to be turned out. Sew the sleeve into the armhole of the lining. 22. With right sides together pin the outer edges of the lining to the outer edges of the front and back facings, sew the hem of the jacket to the hem of the lining. From the inside sew the sleeve opening to the sleeve opening of the jacket; be careful not to twist the sleeve when sewing it to the sleeve opening. Use the small opening left unstitched in the sleeve lining to turn out the completed jacket. 23. Button hole and button as above - see NO. 16 & 17. MCKENZIE BLAZER POCKET BEARER C. SINK-STITCH THE LOWER JETT + BOTH ENDS OF LOWER AND UPPER JETTS, THEN SEW A POCKET BAG TO LOWER EDGE OF LOWER JETT FROM THE INSIDE. opening Pull Jetts through to right side A. SEW A STITCH LINE AS MARKED ON THE PATTERN. FUSE THE BACK ON THE STITCH LINE Stitch jett guideline Vist: www.youtube.com/c/StyleArcSewingPatterns WATCH STYLE ARC’S YOUTUBE VIDEO TUTORIAL ON HOW TO SEW JETT POCKETS WITH A FLAP. TO CREATE THE POCKET SEW THE POCKET BEARER TO THE POCKET BAG. E. FROM THE INSIDE SEW THE UPPER JETT SEAM TO THE POCKET FLAP AND POCKET BEARER. D. INSERT THE FINISHED MADE-UP FLAP BETWEENT THE TWO JETTS AND BASTE IT IN PLACE. Flap Jett Outer View B. SEW JETTS EITHER SIDE OF THE STITCH LINE. CUT THROUGH CENTRE & CLIP CORNERS. PRESS SEAMS OPEN. With right sides together sew lining tofacing one jigger button stitched to the inside wraps right over left FULLY LINED OPTION WITH PATCH POCKETS MCKENZIE BLAZER flat stitch lining tuck opening in sleeve lining to turn jacket out turn out with facing jigger button INSIDE RIGHT page 4 of 4 one jigger button stitched to the inside wraps right over left UNLINED OPTION WITH JETTED FLAP POCKETS flat stitch pocket bearer turn out with facing jigger button INSIDE RIGHT !"#$%"&!&'%()*&++(,$)+-*. ///012345678089:06; A A B 1 1 1 1 A 2 A B 2 !"#$"%&'()*%&"+$, !" #$%&'()&(*+''+$()$(,-(.%/+(010+$"(213+(.4$+(5)4( -$%&"(".+(/*012+&"(%&(#0"1#3(,%4+"(6)(&)'(.71*+( )$($+8.%/+(%'(%&(1&5(915(: %;(5)4(<)=('>+(01''+$&( 9%**(&)'(9)$3? @" A)4$(01''+$&(9%**(0$%&'()&(B4*'%0*+(01C+.=(9>%7>( 5)4(&++<(')(B1'7>(')C+'>+$=(D4.'(*%3+(1(D%C.19( 04//*+"(E(3&)9=(%'('13+.(1(FGHI('%B+=(J4'('>1'K.( 9>5(9+(.+**(>1$<7)05(01''+$&.? 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