GOODBYE WINTER – IT’S TIME TO SHINE!
INSPIRING PROJECTS
for Creative Crocheters
ISSUE 110
insidecrocheT.co.uk
TWO SKEIN
PROJECT
Spread a
little love!
19
MUST-MAKE
PATTERNS
SPRINGTIME SHAWL
Hand-dyed statement piece
Rainbow
Brights
DEDRI UYS
PATTERN
TAPESTRY CLUTCH
Bold peacock design
Happy makes to say
“hello” to spring!
SEA GLASS MITTS
CUTE
POPCORN
STITCHES
Quick to hook project
COLOUR &
TEXTURE
THE BUTTERFLY EFFECT
Join this pretty crochet journey
CORNER
TO CORNER
CROCHET
ROLL UP, ROLL UP!
Emma Varnam's circus throw
WRAPPED IN COLOUR!
Hook Laura Strutt’s
stunning circular blanket
TASSEL EARRINGS ❤ COASTER SET ❤ SUNSET CUSHION ❤ FOLKLORE CAL
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Contributors
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Fran Morgan, Irina Palczynski,
Helda Panagary, Emily Platt,
Alessandra Poggiagliolmi, Sue Rawlinson,
Sarah Shrimpton, Irene Strange, Laura Strutt,
Eleonora Tully, Dedri Uys, Emma Varnam,
Cassie Ward, Kath Webber
Models
Antonia Kozerovskaya, Yasmin Ryan
Photography
Leanne Jade Photography,
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Welcome
When I first learned to crochet almost ten years ago,
one of the first things I discovered was that a whole
world of colour had opened up to me. The day after
learning how to hook up a granny square my friend
took me to a yarn shop and I couldn’t wait to get
my hands on all the different shades – it was
overwhelming! I instead chose a palette of soft blues
and cream, unable to pick from the bright shades, but
my appetite for colour soon grew and once I discovered a certain blog written
from an attic in Yorkshire I was hooked (pardon the pun) on colour!
This issue celebrates colour in all its multi-hued glory, from neon pops to cut
through the winter gloom to soft vintage shades to adorn the cosiest bed or
armchair. A homage to the artist Josef Albers appears in the form of Helda
Panagary’s beautiful blanket, and a gloriously ’70s nod to colour is offset by
soft ecru in Fran Morgan’s stunning Canal Barge Jumper, while the warm
shades of Jane Czaja’s Sunset Sampler Cushion conjure up images of warmer
climes and sunny days. Or, if like me you love a classic granny square, then
the Kaleidoscope cardigan by Cassie Ward is a fabulous stashbuster project
framed by ever-chic black.
This fabulous colour issue is also the last chance to catch up with our brilliant
columnist Dedri Uys, whose explorations in colour and stitch have delighted
us for two years. For her final column she reflects on the crochet skills she
loves the best and tackles tapestry crochet with a beautifully bright project
that’s ideal for colourwork newbies. Next month we welcome a brand new
columnist in the shape of Matt Farci, aka A Boy & Bunting, and I’m sure you’ll
join me in wishing Dedri all the best in her future creative endeavours!
Now go forth and bust that stash – it’s time to celebrate COLOUR!
©Tailor Made Publishing Ltd 2019
All rights reserved. No part of this magazine, or digital versions of the
magazine, may be used, reproduced, copied or resold without written
permission of the publisher. All information and prices, as far as we
are aware, are correct at the time of going to press but are subject to
change. Tailor Made Publishing Ltd cannot accept any responsibility
for errors or inaccuracies in such information. Unsolicited artwork,
manuscripts or designs are accepted on the understanding that
Tailor Made Publishing Ltd incur no liability for their storage or return.
Free gifts are available only with print editions, not with digital editions
of the magazines. Tailor Made Publishing Ltd accepts no liability for
products and services offered by third parties.
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@insidecrochet
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 03
68
CONTENTS
ISSUE 110
Win VIP tickets to
the Spring Knitting
& Stitching Show
in London!
PAGE 6
62
Amanda Perkins
reveals the story
behind her fantastic
new book!
PAGE 98
PLUS
Stitch Dedri Uys’
beautiful tapestry
crochet clutch
See page 14
NEWS & REVIEWS
FEATURES
06 IN THE LOOP
14 HEARTH & HOME
Fun dates for your diary with the Spring
Knitting & Stitching Show and Edinburgh
Yarn Festival, plus cosy, colourful makes and
meet fab amigurumi designer Erinna Lee.
In her last column Dedri Uys encourages us
to keep learning and challenging ourselves,
as she does with her tapestry crochet clutch.
18 SPRING EDIT
11 OFF THE HOOK
Chase off any lingering winter blues with
notice-me brights and blissful shades.
Look forward to spring with our pick of
highstreet fashion reflecting the season’s key
trends. Find traditional crafts, feminine
detailing, neutrals and clashing colours!
12 BOOK REVIEWS
Immerse yourself into stunning corner to
corner crochet, create beautiful baby
blankets, plus hook up cosy sea life tail
blankets and fun crocheted cactuses!
72 THE BUTTERFLY EFFECT
We share part one of a stunningly detailed
blanket CAL by SistersInStitch, run in
collaboration with Yarn and Colors.
04 Inside Crochet
20 FOLKLORE BLANKET CAL
In the penultimate instalment of Sarah
Shrimpton’s gorgeous blanket CAL, we start
piecing together the colourful squares.
98 FINAL THOUGHT
We chat with Amanda Perkins about glorious
colour, her grandson Bert and her new book,
plus life on the Exmoor coast.
11
Introducing
The Butterfly Effect,
a delicate
square from
SistersInStitch.
PAGE 72
Make it
Patterns
in this
issue
40 Neon Pop
Chevron Top
44 Kaleidoscope 48 Canal Barge
Cardigan
Jumper
52 Iced Gem
Shawl
56 Square
Earrings
58 Rainbow
Mandala
62 Harlequin
Shawl
65 Circus
Blanket
68 Happy Heart
Garland Set
78 100s &
1000s Shawl
80 Sunset
Cushion
82 Josef
Blanket
86 Cafetière
Set
08
57 Sea Wrist
Warmers
07
09
86
REGULARS
54 SUBSCRIPTIONS
Save money every month and never
have to worry about missing an issue
of Inside Crochet again!
60 NEXT ISSUE
Get your hands on our gorgeous
textured makes next month.
84 BACK ISSUES
Pick up that must-hook pattern here.
SUBSCRIBE TODAY
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a friend – every issue of Inside
Crochet delivered direct to
your door!
Turn to page 54 for details
88 YARN MARKET
Looking for lovely new yarn and
crochet accessories? Check out our
great selection of independent shops.
89 HOW TO CROCHET
Don’t know where to start? Turn
here for our expert guide to crochet.
72
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 05
News
etc
IN THE LOOP
BLOGS | BOOKS | REVIEWS | EVENTS | INTERVIEWS
B LOS S OM B ON A N ZA
➻ Mindfully hook a handful of soft granny
squares in pretty colours and watch the pile
grow. Then transform them into a bright lap
blanket with this beautiful Yarn and Colors
Blossom Blanket kit. The fresh springtime
palette is just the thing for overcast evenings
– you’ll need 35 granny squares in Yarn
and Colors Epic cotton to make this lovely
throw. Use it to cheer up a sofa, or gift
to someone special to lift their spirits.
Approx £48, www.yarnandcolors.com
TURN TO PAGE 88
FOR MORE GREAT
INDEPENDENT
YARN SHOPS!
[C RA F TS S H OW ]
SPRING KNITTING
& STITCHING SHOW!
➻ Revel in a colourful world of crafts at the Spring Knitting and Stitching Show
at Olympia, London, from 28 February to 3 March. The show is jam-packed
with 200 exciting stalls to explore, so you can shop to your heart’s content and
boost your yarn stash. Or why not try a new craft at one of the 190 expert-led
textile workshops? Have fun with fabric lino printing and needle felting, or learn
new recycling life skills – crochet a bowl from old t-shirts, reuse fabric to make
a mini quilt or start dressmaking. Plus, enjoy textile exhibitions, drop-in crochet
and knitting lessons, a bag for life competition, the stunning Enchanted Wood
– a scene of knitted and crocheted magical creatures – plus a new Sip & Stitch
Bar to combine stitching with a glass of Prosecco!
www.theknittingandstitchingshow.com/spring
[ S H O P S W E LOV E ]
Avicraft Wool
➻ Sharon Newman opened Avicraft
Wool in Bromley, Kent, in 2005. She
stocks Sirdar, James Brett, Woolcraft,
Rico, Adriafil and King Cole. “Avicraft
Wool is a small family business and
people come to us for our friendliness
and ability to find a suitable yarn for
almost any pattern!” says Sharon.
Avicraft Wool runs two monthly social
clubs, plus classes in crochet, Tunisian
crochet and knitting. Find Sharon on
Facebook as avicraftwoolbromley.
www.avicraftwool.com
06 Inside Crochet
WIN!
The lovely folk behind the show are offering one lucky reader a pair of VIP
tickets, worth £30 each! You’ll get entry to the show on one day of your choice,
a free gift, seating in the VIP area, use of the VIP cloakroom, a show guide, £1 off
workshops, and discounts from selected exhibitors. Head to www.insidecrochet.
co.uk/competitions for your chance to win. Closing date 20 February 2019.
Readers are also offered a discount of £2 off advance adult tickets and £1 off
advance concessions. Tickets will be £12 instead of £14/£13, plus £1.75 fee
per transaction. Use discount code IC2019 when you book online or call
0844 581 1319. Offer expires 27 February 2019.
➻
IN THE LOOP
News etc
DIARY
✽ 22–24 FEBRUARY 2019
UNRAVEL
Don’t Miss!
Now in its 11th year, this exciting
knitting and crochet festival hosts a
marketplace with over 70 exhibitors
selling beautiful artisan yarn and musthave crochet, knitting and spinning
notions. Book onto a workshop and
catch talks and demonstrations. Friday
11am–5pm, Saturday 10am–5pm, Sunday
10am–4pm. £8 advance, £10 on the door.
http://craft.farnhammaltings.com
✽ 27–28 APRIL
WONDERWOOL WALES
[ YA R N F E S T I VA L ]
Edinburgh Yarn Festival
➻ Whether you live near Edinburgh or would simply love a holiday in this tremendous city,
why not time a trip for the Edinburgh Yarn Festival on 21–23 March? This exciting handknitting and yarn show takes place at Edinburgh’s Corn Exchange, where you’ll find around
100 fantastic exhibitors. With a firm focus on this being a social event (you are in Scotland
after all!), there will be lots of space to sit down and crochet, make new friends and catch up
with old ones, plus plenty to eat and drink. If you fancy a fun night out, don’t miss the party on
Friday night, plus there’s a Big Knit Night on Thursday, and a Sunday fringe event too.
www.edinyarnfest.com
See us
there!
A unmissable date for fibre fans,
craft-lovers and makers, this vibrant
show returns to the Royal Welsh
Showground, Builth Wells. Stock up
on irresistible wool and natural fibre
products from over 200 exhibitors plus
book hands-on workshops (including a
beaded crochet masterclass led by Jane
Crowfoot). 10am–5.30pm Saturday,
10am–4.30pm Sunday. Day tickets £10.
www.wonderwoolwales.co.uk
✽ 11–13 APRIL
CRAFT 4 CRAFTERS SHOW
Head to the Bath & West Showground
in Somerset for this fantastic crafting
show including textile displays,
demonstrations, lectures and heaps of
craft businesses selling crafting supplies.
Book a workshop and create bunting,
a covered notebook, a needlefelted bird
brooch and more. 10am–5pm.
www.craft4crafters.co.uk
W E LOVE …
✽ 1 JUNE
This whimsical wooden pin badge designed by
Sharon of My Crochet Makes, with an adorable
llama – perfect for any magical maker! Also find
cute badges for yarn addicts and stash queens.
This festival at the Leeds Industrial
Museum has a lively market offering
a range of goods from local
traders, workshops and activities,
demonstrations of special techniques,
tips from professional speakers and
children’s crafting activities.
www.facebook.com/armleymills
LEEDS WOOL FESTIVAL
£6.90, www.mycrochetmakes.etsy.com
WORKSHOPS
✽ SATURDAY 6 APRIL
[ N E W PAT T E R N ]
Sunshine stitches
➻ Put a rocket up a dreary day with Mrs Moon’s
cheerful Winter Sun scarf, shown here in Karen
and Susan’s new bright pink Bubblegum shade
mixed with zingy Lemon Curd. This scarf is
made from three skeins of luxurious snuggly
Plump Superchunky (in a soft superfine Merino
and baby alpaca mix), plus a skein of each colour
for those fab supersized multi-coloured pompoms. Great to entice a newbie into crocheting,
this scarf is also super fast to complete. Love
the Jumbo Hat too? It’s knitted in Podgy
Bubblegum and is a fun accompaniment.
Winter Sun pattern £3, Plump Superchunky
£16.75/100g, www.mrsmoon.co.uk
CROCHET TRIM WORKSHOP
Add a vintage feel to your home by
learning to make beautiful crochet trims
to edge towels and bedding. Sophia
Reed shows you how to prepare the
fabric and use a fine hook. Yarn, spotty
print tea towel, refreshments and buffet
lunch provided. £54.95, 10am–4pm.
www.blacksheepwools.com
✽ SATURDAY 5 OCTOBER
MENDING WORKSHOP
London-based artist Celia Pym explores
textile repair on wool and knitted
textiles, how you do it and why you do
it. It considers the tenderness and care
of mending. Bring any damaged wool
items that you would like to discuss repair
options for. Darning materials will be
provided. £95, 10.30am–4.30pm.
www.loopknittingshop.com
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 07
[CAREERS]
CROCH E T
EN TR EPR EN EU R S
Amigurumi designer Erinna Lee, aka Little
Aqua Girl, talks golf, ballet and cancer research.
@littleaquagirl
[ F R E E PAT T E R N ]
Woodland trio
➻ If, like us, you’ve got a jigsaw of to-do
lists, photos and receipts pinned to your
fridge, you’ll love these super-cute crochet
animal magnets from Pony McTate. The
patterns are free on her blog, along with
photo tutorials if you need a hand with
any techniques. The set comprises a rabbit
and mouse sporting jaunty scarves, and
a fox in a spotty bow tie. When you think
about it, your fridge is the perfect place
to display some woolly pieces! We reckon
they’d make a fun trophy collection for the
wall too, or how about sending one as a
sweet “hello you” gift to a friend?
www.ponymctate.com
ON E S CO OP OR T W O?
➻ Just the name makes our mouth water
– Silk Sorbet is an exquisite new lace
scarf designed by Valerie Bracegirdle,
hooked in beautifully soft and lustrous
Willow Knits 4ply silk yarns. If you love
working lace patterns or are keen to
start, Willow Knits owner Anne Scahill
assures us the kit “is an easy make that
looks complicated!” So, choose from
four scrumptious colourways: Charcoal
and Tea Rose, Charcoal and Silver, Duck
Egg and Peridot, or Claret and Caramel
(shown) – and you’ll soon have a special
new accessory to show off!
£12.16, www.willowknits.etsy.com
08 Inside Crochet
Erinna was born in Singapore and has
been living in Australia for the past 20
years. She is a real animal lover: “I used
to have three dogs when I was living in
Singapore. However, since coming to
Melbourne I haven’t kept any pets as I
find it really heartbreaking when I have
to travel and leave them behind.”
Erinna first learnt about amigurumi
on the golf course. “A playing partner
had an amigurumi giraffe golf club
headcover and from there, I slowly
learned about amigurumi. In mid 2014,
with the help of books, online videos
and blogs, I learned how to crochet.”
Crafting runs in the family, as Erinna’s
mum also crochets. “We both learned
amigurumi at the same time, although
mum has always been a wizard with
the sewing machine and knitting too.”
Erinna runs two Etsy shops with her
mum – The Little Hook Crochet, selling
her own amigurumi patterns, and
Bubbles And Bongo, selling her mum’s
cuddly crochet dolls.
When she’s not crocheting, Erinna
is a scientist focused on cancer
research and the development of new
drugs to combat the disease. “I have
been doing this for almost 15 years.
It is an extremely satisfying though
challenging career. I consider myself
very fortunate to have a job where
I make contributions to uncovering
the mysteries of life and in so doing,
potentially help people suffering from
cancer feel better.”
Before that, she trained as a ballet
dancer. “After finishing high school
in Singapore, I moved to London
to take a classical ballet course at
the Central School of Ballet. A year
later, I transferred to the Australian
Ballet School where I obtained my
qualifications to teach classical ballet.”
It was at this point that her interest
in science began. “I enrolled at the
University of Melbourne in a Bachelor
of Science. During my second year,
I encountered biochemistry and loved
learning about how life works. This led
me to complete a PhD and my current
path. Although I don’t dance today, I still
love watching ballet and enjoy listening
to ballet music while I crochet.”
Of her love for amigurumi, Erinna
explains: “I’ve always loved cartoons,
illustrations and animation but I am a
hopeless artist. Amigurumi provided
the perfect outlet for me to create
the characters I see in my head. I also
like using a somewhat mathematical
approach to creating the shapes.”
Erinna says she still feels nervous
when she makes her patterns available.
“I appreciate it so much when someone
leaves encouraging feedback. I do put a
lot of heart into creating each character
and I just hope that others will like the
end product when they make it!”
Erinna is inspired by so many fellow
crochet lovers, “especially through
Instagram which is the main social media
platform I use. Both mum and I have
➻
IN THE LOOP
[CHARITY PROJECT]
Crocheters unite
received wonderful support from many
amigurumists (including Stephanie of
@allaboutami, Funda of @kikalite, Alison
of @kornflake_stew amongst many
others). Their promotion of my designs
and their advice have been invaluable in
helping us build our profiles.”
Another of her main sources of
support is Joke Vermeiren and her
team at AmigurumiPatterns. “Joke
has been extremely supportive of my
design career and has given me many
opportunities to present my designs
through various publications.”
How does Erinna conjure up ideas
for her characters? “I draw inspiration
from nature, animals, everyday activities,
cartoons, people, my imagination! I am a
huge fan of children’s illustrations and I
love going onto Pinterest. I adore kawaii
culture and draw inspiration from cute
Japanese cartoon characters, as well as
their design aesthetic.” Some of Erinna’s
most popular designs vary from a
unicorn and Boston Terrier to a mouse
and flamingo! “I wish I knew the secret
recipe to what makes a design popular!”
Erinna adds that she finds juggling
her job as a scientist with crafting
challenging. “It sounds a cliché but I do
wish there were more hours in a day.
All of my crochet is done primarily at
night and on weekends. However, I am
not complaining. Crochet is relaxing
and creating new patterns always
excites me. So the rewards outweigh
the efforts. One of my biggest wishes
is that I had enough time to be more
proactive on social media and could
thank every person who likes, tags,
provides feedback or comments on my
Instagram/Etsy shop or who recreates
one of my patterns. Without them,
I wouldn’t be where I am today.”
What else does Erinna love about
running her own craft business? “There
is no word to describe the sense of
satisfaction one gets from seeing
another person not only want to make
your pattern but who finds great joy
in the finished product. The thrill I
get from this will never tire. I am also
grateful that I am able to pursue this
venture with my mum.”
So what’s in the pipeline for Erinna? “I
am currently working on a book of my
designs with AmigurumiPatterns, which
is due for release in late 2019. It has
always been a huge dream of mine to
publish a book and while nervous about
how the book will be received, I am so
excited. I am also exploring new craft
business ideas such as releasing pattern
kits, selling crochet supplies such as
yarn and hooks, and launching a blog.
Oh… and hoping to get a breakthrough
with finding new treatment options for
cancer patients.”
➻ Looking to put your humble hook to
another good cause this winter? Take a
look at Woolly Hugs – this brilliant charity
runs lots of projects, such as making bright
and cosy blankets (snugs) for looked-after
children and young people in the Midlands
region. Cute cuddly toys to comfort
children in Belarus are another need, plus
the charity works with the amazing Knit
for Peace to get warm gloves, hats and
blankets to refugees in Kurdistan and Syria.
To get involved, find details on the website.
www.woollyhugs.org
Congratulations to Susanne Terheggen who
made Emily Ashbourn of Make.E’s
wallhanging from issue 105.
Susanne wins a 12-month digital
subscription! To be in with a chance of
winning, share your recent makes from the
magazine on Instagram using the hashtag
#myinsidecrochet and tag us
@insidecrochet
@knotsosquare
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 09
YARN SHOP
Stockists of Scheepjes,
Stylecraft, WYS,
Cygnet Yarns, James C Brett,
Knit Pro, accessories
and more
10% off everything
use code IC110
www.artisanalleyuk.com
E: info@artisanalleyuk.com
T: 0333 050 1228
First Floor, Shaw House, Shawclough Road,
Rochdale OL12 6ND
➻
IN THE LOOP
Off the hook
We Love
Bowled over
You’re cherrific!
Wing it
£14
£70
£10
Today’s lunch: a creamy pasta dish
sprinkled with Parmesan, served in a
charming bowl handpainted in Portugal.
www.dassieartisan.com
Feel happy, be happy in this gorgeous pink
sweater with the cutest kawaii style cherry
design. Guaranteed to bring smiles!
www.cathkidston.com
We’re big fans of Matt Sewell’s cute
illustrations of our feathered friends – these
colourful coasters will pep up any table.
www.beaumonde.co.uk
COLOUR POP!
Let’s bring a splash of colour into our lives with these bright and cheerful ideas.
Tropical queen
Must dash
£60
£28
Shake it up with this stunning, fresh
’n’ fruity scarf – wear it or display it.
www.jacquelinecolley.co.uk
A fun dash print and fluffy pom
pom makes this beanie a winner!
www.misspompom.com
Inspired?
Joyful curation
From £39
Jazz up a corner of the room with an array
of pretty woven baskets filled with plants.
www.thebasketroom.com
Pastel rainbow
Hook Emily Platt’s
jumper in a colour
of your choice
from issue 109.
£5.50
To order
back issues
turn to
page 84
Fill these pretty little bamboo bowls with
anything: fruit, nibbles, drinks, trinkets.
www.lunaandcurious.com
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 11
BOOKS
W E ARE
A LS O R E A D I N G...
Crocheted Cactuses
WE REVIEW NEW AND EXCITING RELEASES
Sarah Abbondio • Search Press, £6.99
US and UK terminology
➻ Brighten your home
with the easiest of
easy-care plants –
these fun crocheted
cactuses! Each simple
design begins with a
crocheted “soil base”
that supports the cactus and fits inside
a plant pot, so they’re easy to finish and
display, and there’s a range of varieties to
choose from. Use different yarns to create
different effects, as well as techniques such
as raised stitches to make ridges, popcorns
for a textured finish, beads for spots, alpaca
yarns for fluffy sections and more.
Tails Of The Sea
Christine Naugle • Annie’s Crochet, £8.99
US terminology
Crochet
➻ Why have just a plain
blanket draped over your
legs when you can have
one of these amazing sea
life tail blankets?! Created
using rows of V-stitches,
4
these clever designs use
bright and variegated yarn to make fun
throws that will have the younger members
of your household clamouring for whose
turn it is to cuddle up underneath them!
The book contains four designs: a mermaid,
seahorse, shark and octopus, and the
colourwork is both written out and charted.
CROCHET
Tails OF THE
children’s
crochet
blankets
TM
TA I LS OF T H E SE A : CH I L DR E N ’S CROCH ET BL A N K ETS
CHRISTINE NAUGLE
Annie’s
Corner To Corner Crochet
Jess Coppom
SewandSo, £15.99 • UK terminology
➻ Corner to corner crochet has taken the yarn world by storm
over the last few years (turn to page 65 for Emma Varnam’s
stunning blanket) and whether you’re a beginner to the
technique or a seasoned corner crocheter, this book is sure to
have something for you. Corner to corner crochet is a
wonderful way to create pixel style designs in yarn, but like
any colourwork it comes with its own challenges, and Jess
tackles these from the beginning, giving advice on reading
charts and managing bobbins of yarn. There’s a thorough
introduction to the technique, and all patterns are categorised by difficulty level.
Clear colour photographs explain increasing, decreasing and colour changes.
Once you’re confident it’s time to start hooking, and the book contains 15
inventive and addictive designs. There’s a range of styles, from the geometric
Inverse Throw in bold black and white or Scandinavian Ski Lodge Pillow, to the
pixel pictures of the Midtown Stroll Baby Blanket (a dramatic city skyline in neutral
shades) or quirky Down Shift Bicycle Pillow – an ideal gift for any cycling fan in the
family! There’s a great combination of project types too, from traditional blankets
to hats and cowls, ponchos, a cosy scarf that uses colour-changing yarns to
maximum effect and a fun heart design washcloth. We can’t wait to get started!
12 Inside Crochet
fun blankets
made using worsted-weight yarn.
871735
Bert’s Crochet Baby Blankets
Amanda Perkins • KDP, £11.99
UK and US terminology
➻ We’re huge fans here of
Amanda’s stunning designs
and eye for colour, so a
new collection of blanket
patterns is a real treat!
This kaleidoscopic book
was inspired by Amanda’s
first grandchild, and is packed with cheery
designs to stimulate young minds. The
designs are motif based, and range from the
vibrant Pixie Dust (circles within squares)
to the more subtle Cornucopia. The fun
Lollipop Trees, made of circles combined
with stalks, is a real standout, while the
triangle motif ZigZag blanket is stunning.
Find an interview with Amanda on page 98.
HEARTH & HOME
In association with
Dedri Uys
EMBRACE THE NEW
In this, her last column, Dedri encourages us to keep learning and
challenging ourselves, as with her first tapestry crochet design.
It is a sad fact that the beginning of one adventure often
means the end of another. I have been writing this
column for two years now (where has the time gone?)
and I have enjoyed every single moment of it. There is
something extremely comforting about having a little
corner of the world dedicated solely to sentimental
ramblings about yarn and crochet.
I have loved the challenge of thinking up new and
colourful patterns each month, and I have found such
satisfaction in sharing my journey with you. A new
year, however, brings with it new things, so as I write
this last column for Inside Crochet, I thought we could
chat about embracing the unknown!
I would love to think that I know everything there
is to know about crochet, but that isn’t the case at all.
One of the reasons I love teaching workshops is that I
invariably end up learning something new. Sometimes
it is as simple as a trick for better beaded crochet.
Sometimes it is as complex as how to create the perfect
bullion stitch – I’m still not too sure about that one!
Of course, it is comfortable and safe to keep making
the same stitches and patterns we have always made,
and there is no shame in enjoying the mindfulness of
creating without the stress of learning.
But if we always do the things we have always done,
we miss out on so much! Two of my favourite stitches
are raised back stitches and the crab stitch (reverse dc).
When I first started using them, I hated making them. I
couldn’t imagine using them voluntarily. Now I include
them in almost everything I design and love both the
look of them and the making of them. What was once
“daunting” has become safe through familiarity.
When I was deciding what to design for this last
column, I sat down with a nice cup of tea and made a
list of all the techniques I have never used in designs
but have always wanted to. It wasn’t a very long list as
I tend to be quite adventurous. What remained was:
slip stitch crochet, third loop crochet, broomstick lace,
Irish lace, and tapestry crochet. I decided to tackle
tapestry crochet.
I have to say that it was a bit of a steep learning
curve! How do you minimise the inevitable and quite
steep right-ward creep of the design? Can you do it in
a spiral (I couldn’t figure out how)? How tight does the
resulting item need to be in order to be neat? Needless
to say, there was a lot of stopping and starting, with
endless referrals to tutorials along the way.
I am very happy with how my first attempt at a
tapestry crochet design turned out, and I am pleased
as punch that I could end this journey with you by
learning a new technique.
From next month, Matt from A Boy & Bunting
(w w w .boy andbunting.com ) will be taking my place.
He is engaging, funny, humble, and so talented. I
cannot wait to see what he shares with us.
May crochet always bring you joy and healing.
“When I first started working raised stitches and
crab stitch, I couldn't imagine using them voluntarily.
Now I include them in almost everything I design!”
Dedri Uys is a crochet designer and blogger. Find her online at
www.lookatwhatimade.net and on Instagram and Ravelry as BarbertonDaisy.
14 Inside Crochet
New Beginnings Clutch
MATERIALS
● Scheepjes Cahlista,
100% cotton,
15g/25.5m/28yds (available
in pack of 109 15g balls, or
alternatively as individual
50g balls)
Yarn A: Ruby 517 x 1 ball
Yarn B: Tulip 222 x 1 ball
Yarn C: Saffron 249 x 1 ball
Yarn D: Lemon 280 x 1 ball
Yarn E: Parrot Green 241
x 1 ball
Yarn F: Dark Teal 401 x 1 ball
Yarn G: Cyan 397 x 1 ball
Yarn H: Cornflower 511
x 1 ball
Yarn I: Delphinium 113 x 1 ball
Yarn J: Garden Rose 251
x 1 ball
● 4mm hook
● Zip, 20cm/8in long
● Needle
● Cotton thread
TENSION
Work 22dc blo and 16 rows to
measure 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in using
4mm hook, or size required to
obtain tension.
MEASUREMENTS
Finished purse is 18 x 15cm/
7 x 6in.
PATTERN NOTES
Change colour on the last yoh of
the last st before the colour
change.
Work over non-working yarn so
it is not visible from the reverse.
When colour is no longer
needed, cut the yarn and weave
in the ends.
along underside of ch in rem two
loops of each ch, 39dc, join to blo
of first dc with sl st – 80 dc.
Rnd 2: Changing colours as
indicated in chart, 1ch (does not
count as st throughout),
80dc blo, join to blo of first dc
with sl st – 80dc.
Rnds 3–23: As Rnd 2.
Rnd 24: As Rnd 2– 80dc.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
CLUTCH
With yarn A, make 41ch.
Rnd 1: Working in top
loop of ch only, 1dc in second ch
from hook, 1dc in each of next
38ch, 2dc in last ch, turn to work
START
ATTACH ZIP
Using sewing needle and
matching thread, sew zip
to inside of second to
last round of bag.
END
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 15
HEARTH & HOME
16 Inside Crochet
Row 1
4g lef t
5g lef t
11g lef t
10g lef t
9g lef t
7g lef t
23
22
21
20
19
18
17
16
15
14
13
12
11
10
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
517
222
249
280
241
401
Row
Row
Row
Row
Row
Row
Row
Row
Row
Row
Row
Row
Row
Row
Row
Row
Row
Row
Row
Row
Row
Row
Row 24
Key
Yarn A
Yarn B
Yarn C
Yarn D
Yarn E
Yarn F
NEW!
FURNACE
COWL
Designed by Am anda Beaumont
NEW! Furnace Cow l, featuring
Scheepjes Merino Soft yarn.
Available now as an After Par ty printed
pattern booklet or digital down load *.
*Printed booklets available from Scheepjes suppliers.
Digital versions are available to download via Ravelry. RRP €1/£1.
600
602
Malevich Raphaël
639
Monet
637
Seurat
619
Gaugin
620
Munch
627
Manet
631
Millais
606
Da Vinci
647
Titian
633
Bennett
632
Degas
635
Matisse
636
642
634
Carney Caravaggio Copley
621
Picasso
623
Rothko
608
Dali
622
Klee
648
De Goya
640
Warhol
646
Miró
628
625
624
Botticelli Kandinsky Renoir
641
607
629
Van Gogh Braque Constable
610
Turner
603
604
Michelangelo Lowry
614
Magritte
613
Giotto
630
Lautrec
612
638
643
Vermeer Hockney Ansingh
615
Soutine
605
Hogarth
644
Dürer
617
611
Cézanne Mondrian
645
Van Eyck
626
Kahlo
616
Klimt
618
609
601
Wood Rembrandt Pollock
Scheepjes Merino Soft: 50% Superwash Extra Fine Merino Wool,
25% Microibre, and 25% Acrylic; 50g/105m. Available in 49 beautiful
colours, each named after a famous artist. Needle/Hook size: 4mm
WWW.SCHEEPJES.COM
[ C RA F T WO R K ]
We Love
Rose lace top, £24,
Dorothy Perkins
White crochet midi dress,
Oasis, £60
Amal jute bag,
£39.95, White Stuff
Maria palm lace
midi dress,
£130, Monsoon
Leopard print dress,
£45 and crochet bag,
£28, both Miss Selfridge
MAKE IT
YOURSELF!
Hook Emily
Ashbourn’s stunning
Bardot Top from
issue 104
Titania statement earrings,
£22, Oliver Bonas
Mustard crochet block heels,
New Look, £25.99
Daisy lace white cardigan,
£26, M&Co
SPRING FASHION UPDATE
From crafts to feminine detailing, neutrals to colour clashes, you’ll find plenty
of affordable inspiration on the high street of this season’s key catwalk trends.
[ F R I L L S A N D B OWS ]
We Love
Fringed wrap,
Marks & Spencer
Penny lightweight poncho,
£49.95, White Stuff
Embroidered cherry dress,
£80, Cath Kidston
V by Very Denim
ruffle detail dress,
£40, Very
Polka dot ruffled
maxi dress,
£48, Dorothy Perkins
Polly tiered dress,
£329, and accessories,
all from Hobbs
Fringed red bag, £38,
Oliver Bonas
MAKE IT
YOURSELF!
Add some tassels
with Kath Webber’s
Lisbon Lux Bag,
issue 104
18 Inside Crochet
➻
IN THE LOOP
News etc
[ T H E C L AS H ! ]
We Love
Pleated skirt, £22,
F&F at Tesco
Macramé shopper, £29,
Monsoon
Striped pleated skirt,
£22; jumper £18,
both from
TU at Sainsbury’s
Striped dress, £18, Matalan
Bright check coat,
£80, Next
MAKE IT
YOURSELF!
Green animal print
blouse, £35, Wallis
Make clashing cool
with the Coachella
Cardi by Cassie
Ward from issue 80
Ditsy print top,
Marks & Spencer
Woven multi-coloured
mules, £25, Miss Selfridge
Blue woven earrings,
Accessorize
[ T H E N E W N E U T RA L ]
Pom-trimmed trilby,
£35, Dune London
Camel tailored dress,
£55, Oasis
Button utility skirt, £14,
George at Asda
Khaki trench,
£50, Next
Lace blouse, £24,
xxxxxxxx
Dorothy Perkins
MW by
Matthew Williamson
dress, £79,
Debenhams
MAKE IT
YOURSELF!
Crochet a stunning
cover-up with Hayley
Joanne Robinson’s
Falling Leaves Wrap
from issue 108
Straw hoop earrings,
£12.50,
White Stuff
We Love
Selma round
crochet bag,
£39, Monsoon
Striped tie shirt, £14;
striped trousers, £15
and mac, £30,
all from Matalan
All Right boots,
£90, Office
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 19
THE
FOLKLORE
BLANKET
WIN
For your chance to win all
the Stylecraft Special Aran
yarn you’ll need to make the
whole blanket, head to
www.insidecrochet.co.uk/
competitions
brought to y ou
in association w ith
PART
ELEVEN
JOIN TOGETHER
In the penultimate instalment of Sarah Shrimpton’s beautiful blanket,
we begin piecing together the colourful squares…
20 Inside Crochet
e can’t believe it’s been almost a year
since we embarked on this stunning
folklore inspired blan ket – and we hope
you’ve been enjoying it just as much as
we have! Over the past ten months we’ve carefully
hooked 29 colour ful squares, all worked in bright
shades against bold black, and now the time has come
to begin crocheting them all together. This issue,
Sarah takes us through the careful process of joining
the squares together into one large blan ket – ready for
next issue’s final part, the dramatic border!
W
Of course, if you’ve m issed any squares along the
way it’s still not too late to finish off your work – just
head to page 84 to order the back issue you need and
you’ll be caught up in no time! And we’re sure you’ll
have loved the soft, colour ful and easy-care yarn
Sarah chose, Stylecraft Special Aran, which is a great
value choice for a larger project such as this.
We can’t wait to see all your blan kets com ing
together, so please do share your photos with us on
Instagram, Facebook and Twitter – don’t forget to tag
us in, and use the hashtag # folkloreblanketcal.
“Over the past ten m onths w e’ve carefully hooked 29 colourful
squares, and now the tim e has com e to begin joining them ”
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 21
THE
FOLKLORE
BLANKET
FOLKLORE BLANKET
SARAH SHRIMPTON, DESIGNER
Sarah is a proud wife, mother, teacher,
blogger and freelance designer – and
one of Stylecraft’s extra-special
“Blogstars”! She’s also the author of two
fab crochet books, Beginner’s Guide To
Crochet and Supersize Crochet. Find
her online at www.annabooshouse.
blogspot.com, and view more of her
designs at www.ravelry.com/designers/
annaboos-house.
22 Inside Crochet
MATERIALS
● Stylecraft Special Aran,
100% acrylic,
100g/196m/214yds
Yarn A: Black 1002 x 7 balls
Yarn B: White 1001 x 1 ball
Yarn C: Pomegranate 1083
x 1 ball
Yarn D: Royal 1117 x 1 ball
Yarn E: Lipstick 1246 x 1 ball
Yarn F: Aspen 1422 x 1 ball
Yarn G: Gold 1709 x 1 ball
Yarn H: Empire 1829
x 1 ball
● 5mm hook
TENSION
Tension is not important to the
overall project.
JOINING
Using yarn A, join to any
st on Giant Granny
Square, 1ch (does not count as st),
*1dc in each st to 2ch-sp, (1dc,
2ch, 1dc) in 2ch-sp; rep from *
around, 1dc in each st to end.
Join with sl st to third ch.
Using photos as a guide, lay out
the blocks with the big granny
square at the centre.
START
Begin joining the squares around
the edge of the big square first
and then work backwards and
forwards around the squares.
To join the squares, hold with
wrong sides together and line up
the stitches. Work 1dc through the
stitches in blo of the square facing
you and the flo of the square facing
away, as shown above.
Work along the squares, making
1dc in each st and
END
ch-sp around.
Weave in all ends.
COLOUR
ME HAPPY!
Fill your wardrobe with a rainbow of
vibrant shades and stylish fashion.
PHOTOGRAPHS LEANNE JADE PHOTOGRAPHY & KIRSTEN MAVRIC
STYLING KATH WEBBER HAIR AND MAKE-UP NICKI HENBREY
➻
Canal Barge Jumper
by Fran Morgan
Using Patons Merino
Extrafine DK
Pattern page 48
Neon Pop Chevron Jumper
by Emily Platt
Using Caron Simply
Soft Aran
Pattern page 40
Harlequin Shawl
by Alessandra Poggiagliolmi
Using Sirdar No 1
Pattern page 62
Iced Gem Shawl
by Helda Panagary
Using Scheepjes Catona, River
Washed and Stone Washed
Pattern page 52
Kaleidoscope Cardigan
by Cassie Ward
Using Scheepjes Softfun
Pattern page 44
Hundreds & Thousands Shawl
by Sarah-Jane Hicks
Using Kate Selene
Squish Sock
Pattern page 78
3
WIDE RANGE OF:
Helen Jordan
• Crochet hooks - Knit Pro Symfonie, Clover Soft Touch, Crystalites
• Broomsticks (knitting needles from 9mm to 25mm)
• Tunisian crochet hooks; single ended, double ended, flexible,
interchangeable Knit Pro Symfonie
• Hairpin tools including a special 20cm wide frame
• Cottons from 10s to 100s weight
• Loads of patterns and booklets, including my stitch dictionary
ʻTextured Crochetʼ
• Workshops and talk on all aspects of crochet
• Technical Editing
• Knit Pro Symfonie interchangeable knitting needle tips and cables
from 40cm to 200cm
07702 392935
07702 392935
2 2
Online store specialising in alpaca and other
luxury yarns, haberdashery, patterns, kits and much more..
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Visit online www.thelittlewoolcompany.com
or call 01409 221699 for mail order
Coleshill Accessories
Flexible feeling in
your fingers
www.coleshillaccessories.co.uk
Sets of Knit-Pro
Interchangeable needles
Clover Soft Touch Crochet Set
£29.99
in strong, rainbow coloured birch. The
birch wood tips screw into the cables,
enabling you to change size quickly and
economically. You can knit straight or in
the round. Great for arthritic hands!
The needle point is
ideally shaped for easy
crocheting
Contains 8 hooks in sizes:- 2.0mm, 2.5mm,
3.0mm, 3.5mm, 4.0mm, 4.5mm, 5.5mm, &
6mm in compact smart case.
The handle is
light, easy to hold
and well balanced.
The material looks like
stylish tortoiseshell
Clover Soft Touch Crochet hooks
Customers’ favourite!
Symfonie De Luxe set £59.95
Has 8 pairs of needles sizes 3.5, 4.0, 4.5, 5.0,
5.5, 6.0, 7.0, 8.0mm and 4 cables to make
60, 80, 100 & 120 cm circular needles.
Remember to state size. Available singly in
sizes 2, 2.25, 2.5, 2.75, 3, 3.25, 3.5, 4, 4.5,
5, 5.5, 6mm
£3.25ea
For smaller than 2mm see our website or
ring us. See left for a set in a case.
Knitting Needle & Crochet Cases
Circular Needles case
Crochet hook case
Two rows of pockets for circular
Holds 8 hooks £7.95
needles, tips and cables £11.50
Knitting Needle Cases
Symfonie Starter set £21.50
Has 3 knitting tips sizes 4mm, 5mm,
6mm and 3 cables 60cm, 80cm and
100cm.
Store up to 7 pairs of needles in each with a
pocket for accessories. State size required.
A) For 9” needles B) For 14” needles
£11.50 each
Clover Row counter £6.95
Pendant style for using with circular
needles. Just click to change the
number. Lockable.
Handeze Gloves Relieve pain from arthritis, tendonitis, carpel tunnel
etc. while stitching or knitting. Available in beige or slate blue,
with or without the extra wrist strap, which
gives more support.
Tail Catcher £21.95
To measure for size place hand on piece of
Secures the end of your thread
paper. Mark the paper each side of the
when it is too short to use a
knuckles, at the base of the fingers. Measure
needle. Thread the loop through
the distance between the 2 marks and select
your stitching, hook the short
size.
thread into the loop & pull
Size 2
2 – 2½”
51 -– 64mm
through.
2½
–
3¼”
64
–
78mm
Size
3
Choose from Butterfly, Tortoise,
3¼
–
3¾”
Size
4
78
–
91mm
Celtic, Bee, Kingfisher
3¾ – 4½”
91 – 105mm
Size 5
Not suitable for wool.
Regular £19.95 Wrist Support £20.95
Postage & packing. Orders up to £12 – £2.95. Orders £12 to £25 – £3.95. Orders over £25 – £4.95
Order from Siesta Frames Ltd (Please make cheques payable to Siesta Frames Ltd)
Unit D. Longmeadow Ind.Est. Three Legged Cross, Wimborne. BH21 6RD
Telephone. 01202 829461 www.coleshillaccessories.co.uk
Other items available at www.siestaframes.com
RAINBOW
BRIGHTS
Circus Patchwork Blanket
by Emma Varnam
Using Stylecraft Life DK and Batik DK
Pattern page 65
Try new techniques in a spectrum
of shades with our colourful
accessories and homewares.
PHOTOGRAPHS LEANNE JADE PHOTOGRAPHY, KIRSTEN MAVRIC
AND EMMA MITCHELL STYLING KATH WEBBER
HAIR AND MAKE-UP NICKI HENBREY
➻
➻
RAINBOW BRIGHTS
ABOVE
Don’t Be A Square Earrings
by Sarah-Jane Hicks
Using Scheepjes Maxi Sweet Treat
Pattern page 56
ABOVE RIGHT
Cafetière Cover & Coasters
by Theodora Burrow
Using Paintbox Yarns Simply DK
Pattern page 86
34 Inside Crochet
BELOW
Sunset Sampler Cushion
by Jane Czaja
Using Stylecraft Special DK
Pattern page 80
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 35
➻
RAINBOW BRIGHTS
ABOVE
Rainbow Mandala
by Laura Strutt
Using Stylecraft Special DK
Pattern page 58
ABOVE RIGHT
Josef Blanket
by Helda Panagary
Using Scheepjes Stone Washed
and River Washed
Pattern page 82
36 Inside Crochet
BELOW
Happy Heart Garland Set
by Sue Rawlinson
Using DMC Natura XL
Pattern page 68
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 37
➻
RAINBOW BRIGHTS
Sea Glass Wrist Warmers
by Eleonora Tully
Using Cascade Yarns
Heritage Paints
Pattern page 57
38 Inside Crochet
YOUR PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS START HERE
BEGINNER
EASY
INTERMEDIATE
ADVANCED
Neon Pop
Chevron Jumper
Kaleidoscope
Cardigan
Canal Barge
Jumper
Iced Gem
Shawl
Don’t Be A Square
Earrings
Emily Platt
Cassie Ward
Fran Morgan
Helda Panagary
Sarah-Jane Hicks
Page 40
Page 44
Page 48
Page 52
Page 56
Sea Glass
Wrist Warmers
Rainbow
Mandala
Harlequin
Shawl
Circus Patchwork
Blanket
Happy Heart
Garland Set
Eleonora Tully
Laura Strutt
Alessandra Poggiagliolmi
Emma Varnam
Sue Rawlinson
Page 57
Page 58
Page 62
Page 65
Page 68
Hundreds &
Thousands Shawl
Sunset Sampler
Cushion
Josef
Blanket
Cafetière Cover
& Coasters
Sarah-Jane Hicks
Jane Czaja
Helda Panagary
Theodora Burrow
Page 78
Page 80
Page 82
Page 86
The big reveal
– the beautiful
Butterfly Effect by
Kela Ahnhem aka
Crochetingkay!
Page 72
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 39
➻
MAKE IT
Pattern instructions
MATERIALS
● Caron Simply Soft Aran,
100% acrylic,
170g/288m/315yds
Yarn A: Blue Mint 9608
x 1 (1, 1, 2, 2) ball(s)
Yarn B: Neon Coral 9772
x 1 (1, 1, 2, 2) ball(s)
Yarn C: Grape 9610
x 1 (1, 1, 1, 2) ball(s)
Yarn D: Neon Pink 9775
x 1 (1, 1, 1, 2) ball(s)
Yarn E: White 9701 x 1 ball
● 5mm hook
● Four stitch markers
● Yarn needle
YARN ALTERNATIVES
You can use any aran weight
acrylic yarn to achieve a
similar effect.
TENSION
Work 14 sts and 7 rows in
pattern to measure 10 x 10cm/
4 x 4in using 5mm hook, or size
required to obtain tension.
DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY
Emily Platt looks after her
Instagram page, @lostinknit and
has worked with brands including
Knitcraft by Hobbycraft, Rowan
and BettaKnit.
PATTERN NOTES
2ch at beg of row does not
count as a stitch.
On chart, each rectangle
equals 1tr.
Be sure to carry the unused
colour from start to finish on
each row to keep the look and
feel of the fabric the same
throughout.
Neon Pop
Chevron Jumper
BY EMILY PLATT
Add a pop of colour to your wardrobe with this
fun chevron jumper using tapestr y crochet.
ADD TO THE STASH
Buy this colourful yarn from
www.hobbycraft.co.uk
40 Inside Crochet
Try to keep tension as even as
possible. Make sure not to pucker
the fabric when joining in a new
colour or allow the carried yarn
to become too loose.
Change colour on last pull
through of last stitch so that new
colour is ready to use for next st.
If there is a colour change at
beginning of row be sure to
change colour on last stage of
stitch on row below.
After each colour section cut yarn
and rejoin when needed.
BODY
Make two
Using 5mm hook and
yarn A, 77 (81, 85, 89, 93)ch.
Set-up Row: (WS) 1dc in second
ch from hk, 1dc in each ch to end,
turn – 76 (80, 84, 88, 92) sts.
Row 1: (RS) 2ch (does not count
as st), start at bottom right-hand
corner of Chart A, work in tr
following Chart and working over
yarn B until colour change, turn
at end of row.
Cont to work in patt until 38 (39,
40, 41, 42) rows have been
worked in patt in total.
Work should measure approx 54
(56, 57, 58, 60)cm/21¼ (22, 22½,
22¾, 23½)in from start of work.
Fasten off.
15cm/ 6in
15cm/ 6in
17 (18, 19, 20, 21)cm
6¾ (7, 7½, 8, 8¼)in
54 (56, 57, 58, 60)cm
21¼ (22, 22½, 22¾, 23¾)in
START
31 (34, 34, 34, 34)cm
12 (13½, 13½, 13½, 13½)in
109 (114, 119, 125, 130)cm
43 (45, 47, 49½, 51¼)in
SLEEVE CHART
Chart
B (Sleeve)
24
23
22
21
20
19
18
17
16
15
14
13
12
11
10
9
8
7
6
5
Yarn A
Yarn B
4
Yarn C
3
Yarn D
2
Yarn E
1
Size 16
Size 12 & 14
Size 8 & 10
Read RS (even) rows from R to L
Read WS (odd) rows from L to R
Size 16
Size 12 & 14
Size 8 & 10
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 41
42 Inside Crochet
2
Size 8
Size 10
Size 12
Size 14
Size 16
1
3
5
7
9
MAKE IT
4
6
8
10
Chart A (Body)
➻
Pattern instructions
BODY
SLEEVES
Make two
Using 5mm hook and yarn A,
33 (33, 35, 35, 37)ch.
Set-up Row: (WS) 1dc in
second ch from hook, 1dc in
each ch to end, turn – 32 (32,
34, 34, 36) sts.
Row 1: (RS) 2ch (does not count
as st), start at bottom right
corner of Chart B, work in tr
following Chart working over
yarn B until colour change, turn
at end of row.
Row 2: 2ch, 2tr in first tr, patt
to last st, 2tr into last tr, turn
– 34 (34, 36, 36, 38) sts.
Cont to work from Chart B,
increasing as set on each WS
row to 48 (50, 54, 56, 58) sts.
Cont to work in patt until
22 (24, 24, 24, 24) rows have
been worked in patt in total.
Work should measure approx
31 (34, 34, 34, 34)cm/12¼
(13½, 13½, 13½, 13½)in from
start of work. Fasten off.
NECK TRIM
Using a yarn that was worked in
last row of the body (yarn A or B
or yarn C or D), join with sl st to
either shoulder seam.
Row 1: 1ch, 1dc in each dc
around neck opening, sl st to beg
of round. Fasten off.
FINISHING
Pm on each side of Front and
Back 17 (18, 19, 20, 21)cm/
6¾ (7, 7½, 7¾, 8¼)in down
from shoulder seam.
With RS facing, pin centre of
sleeve head to shoulder seam
and join sleeve head to body,
between markers.
With RS facing, join underarm
and side seams.
END
Weave in all ends.
DRESS SIZE
8
10
12
14
16
TO FIT BUST
81
86
91
97
102
cm
32
34
36
38
40
in
109
114
119
125
130
cm
43
45
47
49½
51¼
in
31
34
34
34
34
cm
12
13½
13½
13½
13½
in
54
56
57
58
60
cm
21¼
22
22½
22¾
23¾
in
ACTUAL BUST
MAKING UP
Sew in all ends.
With right sides tog, measure
15cm/6in along top edge of
Body from shoulder towards
neck on each side and join for
shoulder seams.
SLEEVE SEAM
LENGTH
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 43
➻
MAKE IT
Pattern instructions
MATERIALS
● Scheepjes Softfun,
60% cotton/40% acrylic
50g/140m/153yds
Yarn A: Black 2408 x 6 (6,
7, 7) balls
Yarn B: Orange 2427 x 2 balls
Yarn C: Cerise 2495 x 2 balls
Yarn D: Dark Green 2517
x 1 (1, 2, 2) ball(s)
Yarn E: Dark Turquoise 2511
x 2 balls
Yarn F: Mustard 2610
x 1 (1, 2, 2) ball(s)
Yarn G: Coral 2607 x 1 (1,
2, 2) ball(s)
Yarn H: Dark Purple 2515
x 1 (1, 2, 2) ball(s)
Yarn I: Light Pink 2514
x 1 (1, 2, 2) ball(s)
Yarn J: Light Green 2516
x 2 balls
Yarn K: Light Yellow 2518
x 1 (1, 2, 2) ball(s)
Yarn L: Light Turquoise 2614
x 2 balls
Yarn M: Royal Blue 2512
x 1 (1, 2, 2) ball(s)
● 4.5mm (5mm, 5.5mm,
6mm) hook
YARN ALTERNATIVES
Any DK weight yarn would be
a suitable substitute for working
this design.
TENSION
Work Small Granny Square to
measure 9.5 (10, 10.5, 11) x 9.5
(10, 10.5, 11)cm/3¾ (4, 4¼, 4½)
x 3¾ (4, 4¼, 4½)in using 4.5mm
(5mm, 5.5mm, 6mm) hook.
Work Large Back Granny Square
to measure 57 (60, 63, 66) x
57 (60, 63, 66)cm/22½ (23¾,
24¾,26) x 22½ (23¾, 24¾,26)
in using 4.5mm (5mm, 5.5mm,
6mm) hook.
Kaleidoscope Cardigan
DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY
Cassie loves creating projects
with the beloved granny square –
they are so simple, bold and fun!
BY CASSIE WARD
Granny squares are used to create this lovely fun
cardigan, worked in a bright, uplifting palette.
ADD TO THE STASH
Buy this cotton blend yarn from
www.blacksheepwools.com
44 Inside Crochet
LARGE GRANNY
SQUARE
With yarn B and hook
for your size, 4ch, sl st to first ch
to form ring.
Rnd 1: (RS) 3ch (counts as 1tr
here and throughout), 2tr in ring,
2ch, (3tr, 2ch) three times in ring,
join with sl st to top of 3ch, turn.
Change to yarn C.
START
Rnd 2: (WS) 3ch, (2tr, 2ch, 3tr) in
same 2ch-sp, (3tr, 2ch, 3tr)
in each 2ch-sp, sl st to top of
3ch, turn.
Change to yarn D.
Rnd 3: 3ch, 2tr in sp between
3tr groups, (3tr, 2ch, 3tr) in
next 2ch-sp, *3tr in next sp,
(3tr, 2ch, 3tr) in next 2ch-sp;
rep from * twice more, sl st to
top of 3ch, turn.
Change to yarn E.
Rnd 4: 3ch, 2tr in sp between
3tr groups, (3tr, 2ch, 3tr) in next
2ch-sp, *3tr in each sp to next
corner 2ch-sp, (3tr, 2ch, 3tr) in
2ch-sp, rep; from * twice more, 3tr
in next sp, sl st to top of 3ch, turn.
Change to yarn A.
Rnd 5: 3ch, 2tr in same sp, (3tr,
2ch, 3tr) in next ch-sp, *3tr in
each sp to next corner 2ch-sp,
(3tr, 2ch, 3tr) in 2ch-sp; rep from
* twice more, 3tr in each sp to
end, sl st to top of 3ch, turn.
Change to yarn F.
Rnd 6: As Rnd 5.
Rnd 7: As Rnd 5 using yarn G.
Rnd 8: As Rnd 5 using yarn A.
Rnd 9: As Rnd 5 using yarn H.
Rnd 10: As Rnd 5 using yarn I.
Rnd 11: As Rnd 5 using yarn J.
Rnd 12: As Rnd 5 using yarn A.
Rnd 13: As Rnd 5 using yarn K.
Rnd 14: As Rnd 5 using yarn L.
Rnd 15: As Rnd 5 using yarn M.
Rnd 16: As Rnd 5 using yarn A.
Rnd 17: As Rnd 5 using yarn B.
Rnd 18: As Rnd 5 using yarn C.
Rnd 19: As Rnd 5 using yarn D.
Rnd 20: As Rnd 5 using yarn E.
Change to yarn A.
Rnds 21–24: As Rnd 5.
Fasten off.
SMALL GRANNY SQUARES
These can either be joined by
working in blo of each of sts or
use continual joining method
in Rnd 4. For the bottom three
rows of the Back section, see
schematic for layout of squares.
Follow patt for Rnds 1–4 of Large
Granny Square working following
number of squares in colour
combinations as given:
SQUARE 1
Make 13
Rnd 1: Yarn D.
Rnd 2: Yarn K.
Rnd 3: Yarn B.
Rnd 4: Yarn A.
SQUARE 2
Make 14
Rnd 1: Yarn H.
Rnd 2: Yarn I.
Rnd 3: Yarn L.
Rnd 4: Yarn A.
SQUARE 3
Make 13
Rnd 1: Yarn G.
Rnd 2: Yarn E.
Rnd 3: Yarn J.
Rnd 4: Yarn A.
SQUARE 4
Make 14
Rnd 1: Yarn F.
Rnd 2: Yarn M.
Rnd 3: Yarn C.
Rnd 4: Yarn A.
Join three rows of six squares
each to bottom of Large
Granny Square using schematic
as a guide.
BACK EDGING
With RS facing, rejoin yarn A
to top right corner of one long
side, 3ch (counts as 1tr), 1tr in
corner 2ch-sp, 3tr in each space
between 3tr groups to bottom
corner, 2tr in corner 2ch-sp.
Fasten off.
Rep for second long side.
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 45
MAKE IT
Pattern instructions
FRONT
Make two
Join two rows of nine squares
using schematic as a guide.
Join yarn A to top right corner
of Right Front (indicated by a red
cross on schematic), 3ch (counts
as 1tr), 1tr in corner 2ch-sp,
3tr in each space between 3tr
groups to end of long edge, 2tr
in bottom corner 2ch-sp.
Fasten off.
Rep on Left Front starting at
point indicated by blue cross.
17.5 (18, 18.5, 19)cm
6¾ (7, 7¼, 7½)in
57 (60, 63, 66)cm
22½ (23½, 24¾, 26)in
JOIN FRONTS TO BACK
Sew up Fronts to Back leaving
17.5 (18, 18.5, 19)cm/6¾ (7, 7 ¼,
7½)in for armhole.
70 (74, 78, 82)cm
27½ (29, 30¾, 32¾)in
➻
EDGING
Join yarn D join to left side
top corner (green cross on
schematic), 3ch, 1tr in corner
2ch-sp, work 3tr in space
between each 3tr group to
bottom of Left Front, (3tr, 2ch,
3tr) in corner 2ch-sp, work
around bottom edge in the same
way ending at neck edge of Right
Front ending with 2tr in last
corner 2ch-sp, turn.
Fasten off yarn D, join in yarn A.
BACK
RIGHT FRONT
BACK
LEFT FRONT
Front
Front
3
2
1
2
1
4
3
4
3
2
1
2
1
4
3
4
3
2
1
2
1
4
3
CENTRE
Centre FRONT
Front
4
4
2
1
3
4
2
4
3
2
1
1
3
4
2
1
3
2
1
4
3
4
2
1
3
4
2
4
3
2
1
46 Inside Crochet
½½sp ½½
Row 2: 3ch, 3tr in each
between 3tr groups around
working (3tr, 2ch, 3tr) in each
corner 2ch-sp, 1tr in top of last
tr, turn.
Cont in this way working four
more rows:
Row 3: Using yarn E as Row 1.
Row 4: Using yarn F as Row 2.
Row 5: Using yarn A as Row 1.
Row 6: Using yarn G as Row 2.
Using yarn A join Fronts to Back
at shoulders.
SLEEVES
Make two
Rnds 1–11: Work as for Large
Granny Square.
Rnds 12 & 13: Work as for
Large Granny Square using
yarn A only.
Work along one edge of square
as folls:
Row 1: Using yarn K, 3ch, 1tr in
2ch-sp, 3tr in each sp between
3tr groups to end, 2tr in corner
2ch-sp, turn.
¾¾
Row 2: Using yarn E, 3ch, in top
of last tr, 3tr in each sp between
3tr groups to end, 1tr in top of
last tr, turn.
1
2
5
3
4
Row 3: Using yarn M as Row 1.
Row 4: Using yarn A as Row 2.
Row 5: Using yarn B as Row 1.
Row 6: Using yarn C as Row 2.
Row 7: Using yarn D as Row 1.
Row 8: Using yarn A as Row 2.
Rows 9–11: 1ch, 1dc in each
to end.
Fasten off.
treble crochet (tr)
FINISHING
Sew Sleeve to armhole with dc
rows at bottom forming cuff.
With yarn A, work three rows
in dc around entire edge
END
of garment.
Weave in ends.
S
M
L
XL
114
120
126
132
cm
41¾
47
49½
52
in
SHOULDER TO
SHOULDER
57
60
63
66
cm
22½
23½
24¾
26
in
LENGTH TO UNDERARM
70
74
78
82
cm
27½
29
30¾
32¾
in
ACTUAL CHEST
chain stitch
slip stitch
Turn and work along opposite
side of square.
Rep Rows 1–4.
Fold square together
lengthways, sew along edge
to make Sleeve.
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 47
➻
MAKE IT
Pattern instructions
MATERIALS
● Patons Merino Extrafine DK,
100% wool, 50g/120m/131yds
Yarn A: Cream 102 x 9 (10,
10, 11) balls
Yarn B: Sundance 120 x 1 ball
Yarn C: Orange 125 x 2 balls
Yarn D: Iris 168 x 2 (2, 3,
3) balls
● 3.5mm hook
● Yarn needle
YARN ALTERNATIVES
You can use any DK weight yarn
to achieve a similar effect.
TENSION
Work 18 sts and 12 rows in
patt to measure 10 x 10cm/
4 x 4in using 3.5mm hook, or
size required to obtain tension.
Granny squares should measure
approximately 7cm/2¾in wide.
DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY
Fran has been crocheting since her
early teens. She started designing
and writing crochet patterns two
or three years ago. She tries to
make her garments wearable
and has designs for the beginner
and the more experienced
crocheter. Visit her website at
www.franmorgan.co.uk.
Canal Barge
Jumper
BY FRAN MORGAN
Inspired by ’70 s fashion and
colours, this vibrant top is
sure to make you smile!
PATTERN NOTES
The design is made by working
the sleeves first.
A strip of granny squares is joined
then rows of pattern are worked
either side to form sleeve.
The body is then worked down
from the sleeves and yoke.
The markers are placed on the
side seams of body and should
be moved up each round.
GRANNY SQUARES
Make seven (seven,
eight, eight) for
each sleeve and 15 (17, 18, 20)
for hem border
With yarn B, make an adjustable
ring.
Rnd 1: 3ch (counts as 1tr here
and throughout), 2tr, 3ch, [3tr,
3ch] three times in ring, sl st to
top of 3ch to join.
Break yarn.
Rnd 2: Join yarn C in any ch-sp,
3ch, (2tr, 3ch, 3tr) in same ch-sp,
[(3tr, 3ch, 3tr) in next ch-sp] three
times, sl st to top of 3ch.
Break yarn.
START
ADD TO THE STASH
Buy this pure wool yarn from
www.wisebadger.com
48 Inside Crochet
Rnd 3: Join yarn D in any corner
3ch-sp, 3ch, (2tr, 3ch, 3tr) in same
ch-sp, 3tr in space between next
3 tr group, *(3tr, 3ch, 3tr) in next
3ch-sp, 3tr in space between next
3 tr group; rep from * twice more,
sl st to top of 3ch.
On each subsequent Granny
Square Rnd 3 is used to join
squares as folls:
Rnd 3: Join yarn D in corner
3ch-sp, 3ch, (2tr, 3ch, 3tr)
in same ch-sp, 3tr in sp
between next 3tr group, 3tr
in next 3ch-sp, 1ch, sl st to
corresponding ch in corner
of first square, 1ch, return to
second square 3tr in same 3ch-sp
to complete corner, sl st in
corresponding sp in first square,
pull yarn through hook, 3tr in
space between next 3tr group on
second square, 3tr in next 3ch-sp,
1ch, sl st in corner ch-sp of first
square, 1ch, 3tr in same 3ch-sp
to complete corner. Complete
round as normal without joining.
HALF GRANNY SQUARE
Make two for sizes M & XL
With yarn B, make an
adjustable ring.
Rnd 1: 3ch, (1tr, 3ch, 3tr, 3ch,
2tr) in ring, sl st to 3ch to join.
Break yarn.
Rnd 2: Join yarn C to 3ch of first
rnd, 4ch, [(3tr, 2ch, 3tr) in corner
3ch-sp] twice, 1ch, 1tr in last tr.
Break yarn.
Rnd 3: Join yarn D to standing
ch of last round, 1tr in space
between standing ch and next tr,
(3tr, 3ch, 3tr) in corner 3ch-sp,
3tr in space between next 3 tr
group, (3tr, 3ch, 3tr) in corner
3ch-sp, 1tr in next sp, 1tr in
last st tr. Break yarn.
SLEEVES
Join together two strips of 7 (7½,
8, 8½) squares.
Join yarn A to right hand top
corner of joined strip.
Work one round of dc around
strip, working 3dc in each corner
ch-sp, 1dc in each st, and where
squares are joined, 1dc in corner
space, 1dc in space between
square and 1dc in corner space.
BACK
Join yarn A to corner space of
joined strip.
Row 1: 3ch (does not count as st
FRONT
Join yarn A to corner sp of
joined strip.
58 (59, 60, 61)cm
23 (23½, 24, 24½)in
here and throughout), 2tr in base
of ch, [miss 2 dc, 3tr in next dc]
to end, ending last rep 2tr in last
dc, turn – 85 (91, 97, 103) sts.
Row 2: 1ch, 1dc in each st to end.
These two rows form patt and
are repeated.
Rep last two rows four (five, six,
seven) times.
Set aside and work the same for
second sleeve.
Join yarn to last st of one sleeve,
47ch, sl st to join other sleeve, to
form yoke sts.
Work Row 2 across joined sleeve
sts, working in patt over ch sts
– 217 (229, 241, 253) sts.
Rep Rows 1 & 2 until work
measures approximately 18 (19,
20, 21)cm/7 (7½, 7¾, 8¼)in,
ending with Row 2.
Note: This is an approximate
measurement, don’t worry if you
have to work one more row.
92 (104, 112, 124)cm
36 (41, 44, 49)in
Row 1: 3ch (does not count as st
here and throughout), 2tr in base
of ch, [miss 2 dc, 3tr in next dc] to
end, ending last rep 2tr in last dc,
turn – 85 (91, 97, 103) sts.
Row 2: 1ch, 1dc in each st to end.
These two rows form pattern and
are repeated.
Rep last two rows six (seven,
eight, nine) times.
Set aside and work the same for
second sleeve.
46cm/ 18in
Join yarn A to last st of one
sleeve, 47ch, sl st to join other
sleeve, to form yoke sts.
Work Row 2 across joined
sleeves, working in patt over ch
sts – 217 (229, 241, 253) sts.
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 49
➻
MAKE IT
Pattern instructions
Rep Rows 1 & 2 until work
measures 18 (19, 20, 21)cm/7 (7½,
7¾, 8¼)in, ending with Row 2.
Note: This is an approximate
measurement, don’t worry if you
have to work one more row.
BODY
Fold each sleeve so long edges
meet. To mark bust width, pm
each side of sleeve for centre
27 (31, 33, 37) tr groups – 81 (93,
99, 111) sts.
Sew together each sleeve
between cuff and marker.
Body is worked in rnds with
marker points denoting side
seams (see Pattern Notes).
With RS facing, join yarn A to top
right edge of Front.
Rnd 1: Sl st in second dc, (this
should be centre dc above 3tr
group), 3ch, 2tr in base of ch,
miss 2 dc, [3tr in next dc, miss
2 dc] to marked point, ending
last rep with 3tr, cont across
Back until next marker, ending
last rep with 3tr, join with sl st
to standing ch, turn – 162 (186,
198, 222) sts.
Rnd 2: 1ch, 1dc in each st to end,
join with sl st to first st.
Rep Rnds 1 & 2, twice more.
SHAPE SIDES
Next Rnd: (Inc) 3ch, 2tr in base
of ch, miss next dc, [3tr in next
st, miss 2 dc] to marker, 3tr in
next dc, miss next dc, [3tr in next
dc, miss 2 dc] to marker, join with
sl st to complete rnd – 168 (192,
204, 228) sts. Move markers to
centre st of 3tr inc sts (so making
an inc of 3tr between two groups
of 3tr on either side of marker).
Next Rnd: 1ch, 1dc in each st to
end, join with sl st to first st.
Rep Rnds 1 & 2 four more times.
Next Rnd: (Inc) 3ch, 5tr in base
of ch, miss 2 dc, [3tr in next st,
miss 2 dc] to marker, 6tr in next
dc, miss 2 dc, [3tr in next dc, miss
2 dc] to marker, join with sl st to
complete rnd – 174 (198, 210,
234) sts.
Move markers to centre st of
each group of 6tr (so making an
inc of 3tr in centre of 3tr group
at marker).
Next Rnd: 1ch, 1dc in each st to
end, join with sl st to first st.
Rep Rnds 1 & 2 four more times.
Next Rnd: (Inc) 3ch, 2tr in base
50 Inside Crochet
of ch, miss next dc, [3tr in next
st, miss 2 dc] to marker, 3tr in
next dc, miss next dc, [3tr in next
dc, miss 2 dc] to marker, join with
sl st to complete rnd – 180 (204,
216, 240) sts.
Move markers to centre st of 3tr
inc sts (so making an inc of 3tr
between two groups of 3tr on
either side of marker).
Next Rnd: 1ch, 1dc in each st to
end, join with sl st to first st.
Rep Rnds 1 & 2 until work meas
38cm/15in from start of body.
Break yarn.
HEM BORDER
Join tog 15 (17, 18, 20) granny
squares in a strip and attach last
one to first to form a round.
Join yarn A to right hand top
corner of joined round.
Work one round in dc around
strip, working 3dc in each corner
and 1dc in each st, and where
squares are joined, 1dc in corner
sp, 1dc in sp between square and
dc in corner sp, join with sl st to
complete rnd.
Next Rnd: 1ch, 1dc in each st
to end.
Break yarn and fasten off.
Work the same for bottom of
Hem Border.
CUFFS
Using yarn D, work 1dc around
each tr post and 1dc in each dc
around cuff, join with sl st to
form a round.
Rnd 1: 1ch, 1dc in each st around.
Work one more round in yarn D.
Break yarn.
Join yarn C, work three rnds in dc.
Join yarn B, work three rnds in dc.
NECKBAND
Mark centre st of back yoke. Join
yarn D to marked st.
Rnd 1: 1ch, 1dc in each st
TO FIT BUST
ACTUAL BUST
SLEEVE SEAM
LENGTH
(bottom of ch) to corner, pm,
*2dc around each tr post and
1dc in row end of dc, 1dc in each
dc of granny stripe, 1dc in row
end of dc, 2dc around each tr
post to corner, pm, 1dc in each st
(bottom of ch) to corner, pm, 1dc
in each st to corner, pm; rep from
* ending with 1dc in each st to
end of rnd, join with sl st in first
st to complete rnd, do not turn.
Rnd 2: 1ch, *1dc in each st to 1 st
before marker, dc3tog; rep from *
ending with 1dc in each st to end
of rnd, join with st st to first st to
complete rnd, do not turn.
Work two more rnds in yarn D.
Break yarn.
Join yarn C, work three rnds.
Break yarn.
Join yarn B, work three rnds.
Break yarn.
MAKING UP
Sew hem to main body.
Weave in ends.
END
S
M
L
XL
82–87
92–97
102–107
112–117
cm
32–34
36–38
40–42
44–46
in
92
104
112
124
cm
36
41
44
49
in
46
46
46
46
cm
18
18
18
18
in
58
59
60
61
cm
23
23½
24
24½
in
*Covermount gifts not available with digital versions
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Kaleidoscope Cardigan
by Cassie Ward
Using Scheepjes Softfun
Pattern page 44
Digital subscriptions start from as
little as £19.99 for six months
➻
MAKE IT
Pattern instructions
MATERIALS
● Scheepjes Catona,
100% cotton,
50g/125m/137yds
Yarn A: English Tea 404
x 2 balls
● Scheepjes Stone Washed/
River Washed Colour Pack,
78%cotton/22% acrylic,
10g/26m/28yds
50 x 10g balls in different
shades
● 4mm hook
TENSION
Exact tension is not required for
this design.
MEASUREMENTS
Shawl is 150cm/59in across and
75cm/29½in to its point.
DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY
Helda is hopelessly devoted to
yarn, and is constantly working
to transform it to modern
crochet. She can be found at
www.heldasland.blogspot.co.uk.
SPECIAL STITCHES
Picot: 3ch, insert hook in third ch
from hook, yrh, pull through all
loops – picot made.
Tr3tog: (Yarn round hook, insert
hook in stitch, yrh and draw
through stitch, yrh and draw
through 2 loops) three times, yrh,
draw through 4 loops on hook.
CL1: Tr2tog, 3ch, tr2tog.
CL2: Tr3tog, picot, tr3tog, yoh
and draw stitch loops on the
hook, yoh and pull through the
first two loops only.
Iced Gem Shawl
BY HELDA PANAGARY
All the different colour motifs remind us of the
colourful swirls of icing on Iced Gem biscuits!
ADD TO THE STASH
Buy these colourful yarns from
www.woolwarehouse.co.uk
52 Inside Crochet
PATTERN NOTES
Each corner consists of three
clusters of tr3tog.
Select colours randomly without
using black.
Joining Motifs: Having made
first square, all subsequent
squares are joined on the third
round to previous square(s) at
both corner picots and again with
“1dc between tr3tog”.
Join 12 squares on Row 1 and
11 squares on the next,
decreasing one square for the
next row and so on.
Where one square is decreased,
add the half triangle motif, this
will create the longest edge of
the shawl and form a triangle.
SQUARES
Make 78
With yarn A, make an
adjustable ring.
Rnd 1: 1ch, [3dc, 3ch] in ring four
times, join with sl st to first dc.
Close the circle.
3ch-sp, 1dc in between next 2
tr3tog, 3dc in next 3ch-sp] three
times, join with sl st in third of
6ch at start.
START
Rnd 2: Join next selected colour
in any 3ch-sp, (3ch (acts as first
tr), tr2tog, 3ch, tr3tog (see
Special Stitches), 3ch, tr3tog)
in same 3ch-sp, *(tr3tog, 3ch,
tr3tog, 3ch, tr3tog) in next
3ch-sp; rep from * twice more,
join with sl st to top of 3ch.
Rnd 3: Join next selected colour
to centre tr3tog of any corner,
6ch, sl st in third ch from hook
(picot), 1tr in same place as 6ch,
3dc in next 3ch-sp, miss next
tr3tog, 1dc in between next 2
tr3tog, 3dc in next 3ch-sp, [(1tr,
picot (see Special Stitches), 1tr)
in top of next tr3tog, 3dc in next
HALF MOTIF
Make 13
Choose colours randomly
throughout from the 10g balls,
working Rnds 1 & 2 in the same
colour.
Rnd 1: Make an adjustable ring,
4ch (acts as 1tr plus 1ch), (3tr,
3ch, 3tr, 1ch, 1tr) in ring, turn.
Rnd 2: 4ch (acts as 1tr plus 1ch),
3tr in 1ch-sp, miss 3tr, (3tr, 3ch,
3tr) in 3ch-sp, miss 3tr, 3tr in
4ch-sp, 1ch, 1tr in last third of
4ch, turn.
Change to next shade of yarn.
Rnd 3: All triangles are joined to
a square on this round. 3ch (acts
as first tr), pull this through the
picot part of square motif, 1ch,
3tr in first 1ch-sp of previous
row, join to a dc on square, miss
3tr on triangle, 3tr in sp, join
to a dc on square, miss 3tr, 3tr
in 3ch-sp, 3ch, join to picot of
square, 3tr in same 3ch-sp, join
to a dc on square, miss 3tr on
triangle, 3tr in sp, join to a dc on
square, miss 3tr on triangle, 3tr,
1ch, join to picot of square, 1tr in
third of 4ch.
Cut yarn and weave in end.
BORDER
Border is worked along on two
edges only, not the edge with
triangle motifs.
Row 1: Using 4mm hook and
yarn A, 1ch, 2dc in same place,
1dc in every dc across first side,
(2dc, 3ch, 2dc) in 3ch-sp of last
square, 1dc in every dc across
second side, 2dc in 1ch-sp at
end, turn.
Row 2: 1ch, 3dc in between the
first and second dc of previous
row, 1dc in every dc across,
(2dc, 3ch, 2dc) in corner 3ch-sp,
1dc in every dc across, 2dc in
last st.
Rows 3 & 4: As Row 2.
Row 5: 3ch (acts as first tr
throughout), 2tr in first dc, 1ch,
(miss 1dc, 1tr in next st, 1ch)
across first side, ((1tr, 1ch, 1tr),
place SM in tr just made, (1ch,
1tr, 1ch)) in corner 3ch-sp, 1tr,
(1ch, miss 1dc, 1tr) across second
side, 3tr in last st
Row 6: 3ch, 2tr in between first
and second tr of previous row,
1ch, miss 2tr, CL1 (see Special
Stitches) in 1ch-sp, miss (1tr, 1ch,
1tr), *CL1 in next 1ch-sp, miss
(1tr, 1ch, 1tr); rep from * until
tr marked by SM, (tr2tog, 1ch,
tr2tog, place SM in last tr2tog
made, 1ch, tr2tog) in this marked
tr, *1ch, miss (1tr, 1ch, 1tr), CL1 in
next 1ch-sp; rep from * to last st,
3tr in last st, turn.
Row 7: 3ch, 2tr in same st, miss
2tr, CL2 (see Special Stitches) in
each 2ch-sp of CL1 across until
SM, (tr3tog, 2ch, tr3tog, picot,
2ch, tr3tog) in marked tr2tog,
CL2 in each 2ch-sp of CL1 across,
3tr in the last st.
Fasten off and weave
END
in ends.
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 53
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IC#110
➻
MAKE IT
Pattern instructions
MATERIALS
● Scheepjes Maxi Sweet Treat,
100% cotton, 25g/140m/153yds
Yarn A: Yellow Gold 208 x 1 ball
Yarn B: Electric Blue 201 x 1 ball
Yarn C: Hot Red 115 x 1 ball
Yarn D: Royal Orange 189
x 1 ball
Yarn E: Grass Green 606
x 1 ball
Yarn F: Ultra Violet 282 x 1 ball
● 1.5mm hook
● Fish hook earring wires
in gold and silver
Rnd 2: Sl st in first ch of ch-sp,
3ch, 1tr in 1ch-sp, 1tr in each of
next three sts, (2tr, 2ch, 2tr) in
ch-sp, 1tr in each of next 3 sts, 2tr
in ch-sp, 2ch (change to yarn A/D
when making second ch), 2tr in
ch-sp, 1tr in each of next three sts,
(2tr, 2ch, 2tr) in ch-sp, 1tr in each
of next 3 sts, 2tr in ch-sp, 2ch,
work second ch through loop of
fish hook earring wire to join, then
join with sl st to top of first 3ch
– 28tr, 4ch-sps.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
YARN ALTERNATIVES
You can use any laceweight yarn
to achieve a similar effect.
TASSEL
Cut 20 10cm/4in lengths of yarn
C/F thread through bottom corner
of granny square and fold in half.
Wrap a length of yarn three times
around to form top of tassel and
tie securely at the back.
Measure down 4cm/1½in from top
of tassel and trim ends to length.
TENSION
Exact tension is not critical for
this project.
MEASUREMENTS
Length: 7cm/2¾in.
Width: 4cm/1½in.
DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY
Sarah-Jane loves being inventive
with crochet and likes her designs
to be simple, fun and quirky and
most of all make people smile. Find
her on Instagram @flo_and_dot.
Don’t Be A
Square Earrings
BY SARAH-JANE HICKS
Granny squares and tassels make
a perfect combination for these
bright and bold earrings.
ADD TO THE STASH
Buy this pure cotton yarn from
www.deramores.com
56 Inside Crochet
GRANNY SQUARE
Using yarn A/D and
1.5mm hook, 4ch.
Rnd 1: 3ch (counts as first tr), (2tr,
2ch, 3tr, 2ch) in fourth ch from
hook, (change to yarn B/E when
making second ch, do not cut
yarn A/D), (3tr, 2ch, 3tr, 2ch) in
same ch, join with sl st to top of
first 3ch, turn – 12tr, 4ch-sps.
FINISHING
Block earrings
as required.
END
chain stitch
slip stitch
treble crochet (tr)
START
2
1
MATERIALS
● Cascade Yarns Heritage
Paints, 75% wool/25% nylon,
100g/400m/437yds
Shade: Teal Mix 9809
x 1 skein
● 3.5mm hook
● Yarn needle
● Stitch marker
● Scissors
YARN ALTERNATIVES
You can use any 4ply weight yarn
to achieve a similar effect.
TENSION
Work 14 sts and 14 rows in dc
rib st to measure 4 x 4cm/1½ x
1½in using 3.5mm hook, or size
required to obtain tension.
MEASUREMENTS
Finished wrist warmer measures
11cm/4¼in across at the
widest point and 15cm/6in
in height.
Sea Glass
Wrist Warmers
BY ELEONORA TULLY
Inspired by sea glass, these wrist
warmers use popcorns and
raised trebles to keep your hands
warm whilst fingers are left free!
ADD TO THE STASH
Buy this pure cotton yarn from
www.deramores.com
DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY
Eleonora is passionate about
crochet. She lives near the sea
and is constantly inspired by
her coastal surroundings.
She shares crochet inspiration
and designs on her blog
www.coastalcrochet.com and
Instagram @coastalcrochet.
SPECIAL STITCHES
Popcorn (pc): 5tr in next st,
drop loop from hook, insert hook
through top of first st from front
to back, pick up dropped loop
and pull through first st.
PATTERN NOTES
Each wrist warmer is made in
one piece.
The cuff is made first in rows of
double crochet rib, joined and
turned 90° to work in
continuous rounds.
Row 2: (RS) 1ch (does not count
as st throughout), 1dc blo across,
turn – 14dc blo.
Rows 3–39: As Row 2.
Row 40: (RS) With WS tog, make
cuff by folding work in half,
and joining first and last rows
with sl st through blo of each
st and each remaining loop of
foundation ch to the end. Take
care to crochet into the first st of
each row.
The cuff is now complete.
Do not cut the yarn.
Turn and work hand section in
continuous rounds.
Rnd 1: (RS) 3ch (counts as first tr
throughout), 1tr in next and each
row end around picking up two
strands for each st, sl st to top of
3ch to join – 40tr.
Do not turn.
Rnd 2: 3ch, *1pc (see Special
Stitches) in next st, 1rtrf around
next st; rep from * to last st, 1pc
in last st, sl st to top of 3ch to
join – 20 pcs.
Rnd 3: 3ch, *1tr in next st, 1rtrf
around next st; rep from * to last
st, 1tr in last st, sl st to top of 3ch
to join – 40tr.
Rnds 4–15: Rep Rnds 2 & 3 six
times more.
THUMB HOLE
Rnd 16: 3ch, [1pc, 1rtrf] six
times, 1pc in next st, miss 12 sts,
1rtrf around next st, [1pc, 1rtrf]
six times, 1pc in last st, sl st to
top of 3ch to join – 14 pcs.
Rnd 17: As Rnd 3 – 28tr.
Rnds 18–21: Rep Rnds 2
& 3 twice.
END
Fasten off and
weave in ends.
Use stitch marker to mark top of
3ch at start of each round of the
hand section to see where to slip
stitch at the end of each round.
WRIST WARMERS
Make two
Using 3.5mm
hook, 15ch.
Row 1: 1dc in second ch from
hook going under blo of ch,
1dc blo of each ch to end, turn
– 14dc blo.
START
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 57
➻
MAKE IT
Pattern instructions
Rainbow Mandala
BY LAURA STRUTT
This large lap blanket is a colourful take on a traditional granny
design. Worked to create a giant circle, the vibrant pattern
repeats play up the boho style.
ADD TO THE STASH
Buy this great value yarn from
www.lovecrochet.com
58 Inside Crochet
MATERIALS
● Stylecraft Special DK, 100%
acrylic, 100g/ 295m/322yds
Yarn A: Silver 1203 x 1 ball
Yarn B: Pomegranate 1083
x 1 ball
Yarn C: Spice 1711 x 1 ball
Yarn D: Saffron 1081 x 1 ball
Yarn E: Lime 1712 x 1 ball
Yarn F: Aster 1003 x 1 ball
Yarn G: Magenta 1084 x 1 ball
Yarn H: Violet 1277 x 1 ball
Yarn I: Cream 1005 x 1 ball
● 4mm hook
● Yarn needle
TENSION
Work first three rounds to
measure 9cm/3½in in diameter
using 4mm hook, or size required
to obtain tension.
MEASUREMENTS
Finished blanket is 145cm/57in
in diameter.
DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY
Laura is a craft editor and
designer who has written several
books of sewing, knitting and
crochet. Visit her website at
www.madepeachy.com.
PATTERN NOTES
This blanket is made with
a rainbow-striped design;
alternatively, you can work in
colour blocks, but be sure to
adjust yarn amounts accordingly.
The increases are worked every
fifth round, and 12 groups will be
added on each increase round.
Keep track of the row count
so as to not lose your place in
the pattern.
ch-sp, 3ch, 2tr in same sp, *1ch,
3tr in next ch-sp; rep from * to
end of round, 1ch, join with a
sl st in third of 3ch.
Rnd 7: Join in yarn G, 4ch, 3tr
in next ch-sp, *1ch, 3tr in next
ch-sp; rep from * to last ch-sp,
2tr in last ch-sp, join with a sl st
in third of 4ch.
Rnd 8: Join in yarn H, sl st in
ch-sp, 3ch, 2tr in same sp, *1ch,
3tr in next ch-sp; rep from * to
end of round, 1ch, join with a
sl st in third of 3ch.
Rnd 9: Join in yarn I, 4ch, 3tr
in next ch-sp, *1ch, 3tr in next
ch-sp; rep from * to last ch-sp,
2tr in last ch-sp, join with a sl st
in third of 4ch.
Rnd 10: (Inc) Change to yarn A,
sl st in ch-sp, 3ch, 2tr in same sp,
*1ch, (3tr, 1ch, 3tr) in next ch-sp,
1ch, 3tr in next sp; rep from * to
last ch-sp, 1ch (3tr, 1ch, 3tr) in
last ch-sp, 1ch, join with a sl st in
third of 3ch – 36 x 3tr groups.
Rnd 11: Change to yarn B, 4ch,
3tr in next ch-sp, *1ch, 3tr in
next ch-sp; rep from * to last
ch sp, 2tr in last ch-sp, join with
a sl st in third of 4ch.
Rnd 12: Change to yarn C, sl st in
ch-sp, 3ch, 2tr in same sp, *1ch,
3tr in next ch-sp; rep from * to
end of round, 1ch, join with a
sl st in third of 3ch.
Cont in patt as set, rep colour
block patt of yarns A–I until
six full colour reps have been
worked in total and at the same
time working inc round every
fifth round [working one more
3tr group between (3tr, 1ch, 3tr)
increases on every inc round]
– 132 x 3tr groups.
Change to yarn A, work one
more inc round as set – 144 x
3tr groups.
Change to yarn I, work two
rounds in patt as set.
BORDER
Rnd 1: Using a 4mm hook and
yarn A, 1dc in each tr and ch-sp
to end, join with a sl st in first
dc – 576dc.
Rnd 2: 1ch (does not count as st),
1dc in each dc to end, join with a
sl st in first dc. Fasten off.
FINISHING
Weave in all ends
and block as desired
to neaten.
END
This colourful pattern is taken
from Modern Crocheted
Blankets, Throw s & Cushion s
by Laura Strutt (CICO Books,
£ 12.99). Photography by
Em ma Mitchell © CICO Books.
BLANKET
Using a 4mm hook
and yarn A, make an
adjustable ring.
Rnd 1: 3ch (counts as 1tr
throughout), 1tr into ring, [1ch,
2tr into the ring] five times, 1ch,
join with a sl st in third of 3ch
– 6 x 2tr groups.
Rnd 2: Sl st in next st, join in yarn
B, sl st in ch-sp, 3ch, (1tr, 1ch, 2tr)
in same sp, *1ch, (2tr, 1ch, 2tr)
in next ch-sp; rep from * to end
of round, 1ch, join with a sl st in
third of 3ch – 12 x 2tr groups.
Rnd 3: Sl st in next st, join in
yarn C, sl st in ch-sp, 4ch (counts
as 1tr, 1ch throughout), 3tr in
next ch-sp, *1ch, 3tr in next
ch-sp; rep from * to end of
round, 1ch, 2tr in same ch-sp as
first sl st, join with a sl st in third
of 4ch – 12 x 3tr groups.
Rnd 4: Join in yarn D, sl st in
ch-sp, 3ch, 2tr in same sp, *1ch,
3tr in next ch-sp; rep from * to
end of round, 1ch, join with a
sl st in third of 3ch.
Rnd 5: (Inc) Join in yarn E, 4ch,
*(3tr, 1ch, 3tr) in next ch-sp, 1ch;
rep from * to last ch-sp, (3tr, 1ch,
2tr) in last ch-sp, join with a sl st
in third of 4ch – 24 x 3tr groups.
Rnd 6: Join in yarn F, sl st in
START
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 59
issue 111
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➻
MAKE IT
Pattern instructions
Harlequin Shawl
BY ALESSANDRA POGGIAGLIOLMI
Harlequin is the best-known
character from the “Commedia
dell’arte”, and is characterised
by his chequered costume!
ADD TO THE STASH
Buy this super-soft yarn from
www.wisebadger.com
MATERIALS
● Sirdar No 1,
50% acrylic/50% nylon,
100g/230m/251yds
Yarn A: Haymeadow 222
x 1 ball
Yarn B: Plum 216 x 1 ball
Yarn C: Glow 204 x 1 ball
Yarn D: Palm 219 x 1 ball
Yarn E: Fog 213 x 1 ball
Yarn F: Watermelon 218
x 1 ball
Yarn G: Luna 201 x 1 ball
Yarn H: Pure Scarlet 214
x 1 ball
Yarn I: Rosebud 206 x 1 ball
● 4mm hook
● Stitch marker
● Blocking board or foam tiles
DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY
Alessandra shares patterns and
photo tutorials on her blog www.
homemadeatmyplace.blogspot.
com and posts frequently on
Instagram @homemadeatmyplace.
YARN ALTERNATIVES
You can use any DK weight yarn
blend to achieve a similar effect.
Strips are joined with a sl st. Both
the first and last ten rows of
each strip (on its left side) are not
joined to the previous strip, but
left free.
Tip: When joining one strip to
another, remember to pull the
working yarn properly, to avoid
gaps in the fabric.
TENSION
Exact tension is not required for
this piece.
MEASUREMENTS
After blocking, shawl measures
approximately 250cm/98½in
wide and 48cm/19in high.
62 Inside Crochet
PATTERN NOTES
Increases and decreases are
worked at the end of each row,
but not at the same time.
Shawl is worked from bottom
to top, joining, one after the
other, vertical strips of diamond
motifs. These strips increase by
one diamond each strip and are
joined together as you work, no
sewing is involved.
Turning ch does not count
as a stitch.
SHAWL
FIRST DIAMOND
MOTIF/STRIP (D1)
With 4mm hook and yarn A, 3ch.
Row 1: (RS) 2tr in first ch, 2ch,
turn – 2tr.
Row 2: (WS) 1tr, 2tr in last st,
2ch, turn – 3tr.
Row 3: 2tr, 2tr in last st, 2ch,
turn – 4tr.
Row 4: 3tr, 2tr in last st, 2ch,
turn – 5tr.
Row 5: 4tr, 2tr in last st, 2ch,
turn – 6tr.
Row 6: 5tr, 2tr in last st, 2ch,
turn – 7tr.
Row 7: 6tr, 2tr in last st, 2ch,
turn – 8tr.
Row 8: 7tr, 2tr in last st, 2ch,
turn – 9tr.
Row 9: 8tr, 2tr in last st, 2ch,
turn – 10tr.
Row 10: 9tr, 2tr in last st, 2ch,
turn – 11tr (last inc).
Row 11: (RS) 9tr, tr2tog, 2ch,
turn – 10tr (first dec).
Row 12: (WS) 8tr, tr2tog, 2ch,
START
turn – 9tr.
Row 13: 7tr, tr2tog, 2ch, turn
– 8tr.
Row 14: 6tr, tr2tog, 2ch, turn
– 7tr.
Row 15: 5tr, tr2tog, 2ch, turn
– 6tr.
Row 16: 4tr, tr2tog, 2ch, turn
– 5tr.
Row 17: 3tr, tr2tog, 2ch, turn
– 4tr.
Row 18: 2tr, tr2tog, 2ch, turn
– 3tr.
Row 19: 1tr, tr2tog, 2ch, turn
– 2tr.
Row 20: Tr2tog – 1tr (last dec).
Fasten off.
PM on RS of this Diamond Motif.
SECOND DIAMOND STRIP
(2 DIAMONDS, D2)
With yarn B, 3ch.
Rows 1–10: Work as for Rows
1–10 of D1.
With RS of D1 facing, join as folls:
Row 11: (RS) 9tr, tr2tog (with
joining) as folls: work first part of
tr as usual, then yrh, insert hook
in last st, yrh, pull through (4
lps on hook), sl st in base of D1
(ie same ch in which first 2tr of
Row 1 of D1 is worked) pull yarn
to front and through first lp (4 lps
250cm/ 98½in
48cm/ 19in
When joining diamonds together,
diamond numbers and rows are
referred to thus:
D1/R1 = Row 1 of Diamond 1.
D1/R2 = Row 2 of Diamond 1.
And so on.
on hook), yrh, pull through next
2 lps, yrh, pull through last 3 lps
(tr2tog is complete), sl st in first
tr of D1/R1 (see Pattern Notes),
2ch, sl st in first tr of D1/R2, turn
– 10tr.
Row 12: (WS) 8tr, tr2tog, 2ch,
turn – 9tr.
Row 13: 7tr, tr2tog, sl st in first
tr of D1/R3, 2ch, sl st in first tr of
D1/R4, turn – 8tr.
Row 14: 6tr, tr2tog, 2ch, turn
– 7tr.
Row 15: 5tr, tr2tog, sl st in first
tr of D1/R5, 2ch, sl st in first tr of
D1/R6, turn – 6tr.
Row 16: 4tr, tr2tog, 2ch, turn – 5tr.
Row 17: 3tr, tr2tog, sl st in first
tr of D1/R7, 2ch, sl st in first tr of
D1/R8, turn – 4tr.
Row 18: 2tr, tr2tog, 2ch, turn – 3tr.
Row 19: 1tr, tr2tog, sl st in first
tr of D1/R9, 2ch, sl st in first tr of
D1/R10, turn – 2tr.
Row 20: Tr2tog, 2ch, turn – 1tr.
Row 21: (RS) 2tr in same st, sl st
in first tr of D1/R11, 2ch, sl st in
first tr of D1/R12, turn – 2tr.
Row 22: (WS) 1tr, 2tr in last st,
2ch, turn – 3tr.
Row 23: 2tr, 2tr in last st, sl st in
first tr of D1/R13, 2ch, sl st in first
tr of D1/R14, turn – 4tr.
Row 24: 3tr, 2tr in last st, 2ch,
turn – 5tr.
Row 25: 4tr, 2tr in last st, sl st in
first tr of D1/R15, 2ch, sl st in first
tr of D1/R16, turn – 6tr.
Row 26: 5tr, 2tr in last st, 2ch,
turn – 7tr.
Row 27: 6tr, 2tr in last st, sl st in
first tr of D1/R17, 2ch, sl st in first
tr of D1/R18, turn – 8tr.
Row 28: 7tr, 2tr in last st, 2ch,
turn – 9tr.
Row 29: 8tr, 2tr in last st, sl st in
first tr of D1/R19, 2ch, sl st in first
tr of D1/R20, turn – 10tr.
Row 30: 9tr, 2tr in last st, 2ch, turn
– 11tr – last inc and last joining.
Rows 31–40: Follow patt as
in D1 from Row 11 to Row 20
inclusive.
Fasten off without working
last 2ch.
THIRD DIAMOND STRIP
(3 DIAMONDS, D3)
With yarn C, 3ch.
Work patt as given for D2, from
Rows 1–30, substituting D1
with D2.
Row 31: (RS) 9tr, tr2tog, sl st in
first tr of D2/R21, 2ch, sl st in top
of first tr of D2/R22, turn – 10tr.
Row 32: (WS) 8tr, tr2tog, 2ch,
turn – 9tr.
Row 33: 7tr, tr2tog, sl st in first tr
of D2/R23, 2ch, sl st in first tr of
D2/R24, turn – 8tr.
Row 34: 6tr, tr2tog, 2ch, turn
– 7tr.
Row 35: 5tr, tr2tog, sl st in first tr
of D2/R25, 2ch, sl st in first tr of
D2/R26, turn – 6tr.
Row 36: 4tr, tr2tog, 2ch, turn
– 5tr.
Row 37: 3tr, tr2tog, sl st in first tr
of D2/R27, 2ch, sl st in first tr of
D2/R28, turn – 4tr.
Row 38: 2tr, tr2tog, 2ch, turn
– 3tr.
Row 39: 1tr, tr2tog, sl st in first tr
of D2/R29, 2ch, sl st in first tr of
D2/R30, turn – 2tr.
Row 40: Tr2tog, 2ch, turn – 1tr.
Row 41: (RS) 2tr in same st, sl st
in first tr of D2/R31, 2ch, sl st in
first tr of D2/R32, turn – 2tr.
Row 42: (WS) 1tr, 2tr in last st,
2ch, turn – 3tr.
Row 43: 2tr, 2tr in last st, sl st in
first tr of D2/R33, 2ch, sl st in first
tr of D2/R34, turn – 4tr.
Row 44: 3tr, 2tr in last st, 2ch,
turn – 5tr.
Row 45: 4tr, 2tr in last st, sl st in
first tr of D2/R35, 2ch, sl st in first
tr of D2/R36, turn – 6tr.
Row 46: 5tr, 2tr in last st, 2ch,
turn – 7tr.
Row 47: 6tr, 2tr in last st, sl st in
first tr of D2/R37, 2ch, sl st in first
tr of D2/R38, turn – 8tr.
Row 48: 7tr, 2tr in last st, 2ch,
turn – 9tr.
Row 49: 8tr, 2tr in last st, sl st in
first tr of D2/R39, 2ch, sl st in first
tr of D2/R40, turn – 10tr.
Row 50: 9tr, 2tr in last st, 2ch, turn
– 11tr, last inc and last joining.
Rows 51–60: Foll patt as in D1
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 63
➻
MAKE IT
Pattern instructions
from Row 11 to Row 20 inclusive.
Fasten off without working
last 2ch.
Cont as set for foll strips:
Fourth Diamond Strip
(4 diamonds, D4): Work a total
of 80 rows with yarn D; 60 rows
joined to D3.
Fifth Diamond Strip
(5 diamonds, D5): Work a total
of 100 rows with yarn E; 80 rows
joined to D4.
Sixth Diamond Strip
(6 diamonds, D6): Work a total
of 120 rows with yarn F; 100
rows joined to D5.
Seventh Diamond Strip
(7 diamonds, D7): Work a total
of 140 rows with yarn A; 120
rows joined to D6.
Eighth Diamond Strip
(8 diamonds, D8): Work a total
of 160 rows with yarn B; 140
rows joined to D7.
Ninth Diamond Strip
(9 diamonds, D9): Work a total
of 180 rows with yarn C; 160
rows joined to D8.
Tenth Diamond Strip
(10 diamonds, D10): Work a
total of 200 rows with yarn D;
180 rows joined to D9.
Eleventh Diamond Strip
(11 diamonds, D11): Work a
total of 220 rows with yarn G;
200 rows joined to D10.
Twelfth Half Diamond Strip
(12 half diamonds, D12):
Both incs and decs are worked
only on RS.
With yarn H, 3ch.
Row 1: (RS) 2tr in first ch, 2ch,
turn – 2tr.
Row 2: (WS) 2tr, 2ch, turn.
Row 3: 1tr, 2tr in last st, 2ch,
turn – 3tr.
Row 4: 3tr, 2ch, turn.
Row 5: 2tr, 2tr in last st, 2ch,
turn – 4tr.
Row 6: 4tr, 2ch, turn.
Row 7: 3tr, 2tr in last st, 2ch,
turn – 5tr.
Row 8: 5tr, 2ch, turn.
Row 9: 4tr, 2tr in last st, 2ch,
turn – 6tr.
Row 10: 6tr, 2ch, turn.
*Row 11: (RS) 4tr, tr2tog (with
joining) as folls: work first part
of tr as usual, yrh, insert hook in
last st, yrh, pull through (4 lps on
hook), sl st in base of D1 in same
ch of first 2tr of D11/R1) pulling
yarn to front and through first lp
64 Inside Crochet
(4 lps on hook), yrh, pull through
next 2 lps, yrh, pull through last
3 lps (tr2tog complete), sl st in top
of first tr of D11/R1, 2ch, sl st in
top of first tr of D11/R2, turn – 5tr.
Row 12: (WS) 5tr, 2ch, turn.
Row 13: 3tr, tr2tog, sl st in first
tr of D11/R3 2ch, sl st in first tr of
D11/R4 turn – 4tr.
Row 14: 4tr, 2ch, turn.
Row 15: 2tr, tr2tog, sl st in first
tr of D11/R5 2ch, sl st in first tr of
D11/R6 turn – 3tr.
Row 16: 3tr, 2ch, turn.
Row 17: 1tr, tr2tog, sl st in first
tr of D11/R7 2ch, sl st in first tr of
D11/R8 turn – 2tr.
Row 18: 2tr, 2ch, turn.
Row 19: tr2tog, sl st in first tr of
D11/R9 2ch, sl st in first tr of D11/
R10 turn – 1tr.
Row 20: 1tr, 2ch, turn.
Row 21: (RS) 2tr in same st, sl st
in first tr of D11/R11 2ch, sl st in
first tr of D11/R12 turn – 2tr.
Row 22: (WS) 2tr, 2ch, turn.
Row 23: 1tr, 2tr in last st, sl st in
first tr of D11/R13 2ch, sl st in first
tr of D11/R14 turn – 3tr.
Row 24: 3tr, 2ch, turn.
Row 25: 2tr, 2tr in last st, sl st in
first tr of D11/R15 2ch, sl st in first
tr of D11/R16 turn – 4tr.
Row 26: 4tr, 2ch, turn.
Row 27: 3tr, 2tr in last st, sl st in
first tr of D11/R17 2ch, sl st in first
tr of D11/R18 turn – 5tr.
Row 28: 5tr, 2ch, turn.
Row 29: 4tr, 2tr in last st, sl st in
first tr of D11/R19 2ch, sl st in first
tr of D11/R20 turn – 6tr.
Row 30: 6tr, 2ch, turn.
Row 31: 4tr, tr2tog, sl st in first tr
of D11/R21 2ch, sl st in first tr of
D11/R22 turn – 5tr.
Rep from * to end of Row 30 ten
more times, paying attention not
to rep Row 11 as worked the first
time, but foll Row 31 instead (as
above). Joining is complete at end
of Row 230.
Row 231: (RS) 4tr, tr2tog, 2ch,
turn – 5tr.
Row 232: (WS) 5tr, 2ch, turn.
Row 233: 3tr, tr2tog, 2ch, turn
– 4tr.
Row 234: 4tr, 2ch, turn.
Row 235: 2tr, tr2tog, 2ch, turn
– 3tr.
Row 236: 3tr, 2ch, turn.
Row 237: 1tr, tr2tog, 2ch, turn
– 2tr.
Row 238: 2tr, 2ch, turn.
Row 239: tr2tog, 2ch, turn – 1tr.
Row 240: 1tr, do not fasten off,
turn to RS.
EDGING
Rnd 1: Cont with same yarn,
1ch, work along side A working
2dc around each tr post (240dc
worked by bottom point of
shawl), 3ch, work 240dc along
side B, 3ch, sl st in in first sp of
first post of side C (shawl top),
1ch, 1dc in same sp, work 2dc
along each tr post along side
(total 480dc). When last dc is
completed, 3ch, sl st in first dc,
pulling to the front yarn I. Break
off yarn H.
Rnd 2: 1ch, 1dc in same st,
1dc in each dc and 3dc in each
3ch-sp, sl st in top of first dc to
join, change to yarn C, break
off yarn I.
Rnd 3: 1ch, [(1dc, 3ch, 1dc) in
same st, miss 1 st] to end, sl st in
top of first dc.
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
BLOCKING
Pin shawl on a blocking board
or foam tiles. Try to stretch the
diamonds in neat horizontal
stripes.
Spray with water and leave to
dry properly.
TASSELS
Make three
Wrap all yarn shades around a
book, approximately 21cm/8¼in
(height) x 2cm/¾in (depth)] six
times.
Cut yarns at bottom of book.
Choose a main colour (yarn B
in sample), cut three pieces of
30cm/12in each to knot on top of
tassel and to form two necks and
so two bobbles (the tassel has
two “heads” instead of just one).
Trim tassel to desired length and
knot one at bottom of
END
shawl and one in
each corner.
MATERIALS
● Stylecraft Life DK,
75% acrylic/25% wool,
100g/298m/326yds
Yarn A: Cream 2305 x 3 balls
● Stylecraft Batik DK,
80% acrylic/20% wool,
50g/138m/151yds
Yarn B: Old Gold 1902 x 1 ball
Yarn C: Coral 1903 x 1 ball
Yarn D: Cherry 1904 x 1 ball
Yarn E: Raspberry 1905 x 1 ball
Yarn F: Heather 1906 x 1 ball
Yarn G: Sage 1908 x 1 ball
Yarn H: Violet 1912 x 1 ball
Yarn I: Indigo 1914 x 1 ball
Yarn J: Rose 1916 x 1 ball
Yarn K: Mint 1918 x 1 ball
Yarn L: Lupin 1919 x 1 ball
● 3.5mm hook
● Yarn needle
block and place hook in next
3ch-sp. Pick up new colour, pull
through the ch-sp to complete
sl st and cont.
Colour changes, especially at the
beginning of rows, tail across
the block of the work. Don’t
worry about these tails – you can
crochet over them.
Rearrange the balls/bobbins
of yarn after each row. Leave
balls/bobbins attached until the
section is finished.
Alternatively, if all the changes
are too challenging, work pattern
as 80 individual 8 x 8 blocks,
each made up of two colours.
1 block = 3ch and 3tr.
YARN ALTERNATIVES
You can use any DK weight yarn
to achieve a similar effect.
TENSION
Work an 8 block square to
measure 13 x 13 cm/5¼ x 5¼in
using 3.5mm hook, or size
required to obtain tension.
MEASUREMENTS
Length: 142cm/56in.
Width: 106cm/42in.
Circus
Patchwork
Blanket
BY EMMA VARNAM
This graphic pattern has all the
vintage feel of a classic patchwork
quilt, but is made using the
corner-to-corner technique.
ADD TO THE STASH
Buy these colourful yarns from
www.woolwarehouse.co.uk
DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY
Emma has been designing
stylish knitting and crochet
patterns for over a decade.
Her blog www.emmavarnam.
co.uk features many of her free
patterns and the inspiration
behind them. Find her on Twitter
and Instagram @EmmaVarnamUK
and on Facebook as Emma
Varnam Designs.
PATTERN NOTES
This pattern can be worked in
two ways:
You can work the whole blanket
in one piece as shown using the
chart overleaf.
In some places the same colour
of yarn is used multiple times
per row. For coloured triangles
prepare 10g small balls/bobbins
of yarn in advance. Use one of
yarn A for each section.
Work the colour chart from the
bottom right corner.
When changing colour finish one
BLANKET
With 3.5mm hook and
yarn D, 6ch.
Row 1: 1tr in fourth ch from
hook, 1tr in each of next 2ch,
turn – 1 Block.
Row 2: Join yarn A, 6ch, 1tr in
fourth ch from hook, 1tr in each
of next 2ch, change to yarn D,
(sl st, 3ch, 3tr) in next 3ch-sp of
previous row, turn – 2 Blocks.
Row 3: 6ch, 1tr in fourth ch from
hook, 1tr in each of next 2ch,
(sl st, 3ch, 3tr) in next 3ch-sp of
previous row, change to yarn A,
(sl st, 3ch, 3tr) in next 3ch-sp of
previous row, turn – 3 Blocks.
START
Row 3 forms pattern row,
increasing by one Block each
row. Working colour changes
as indicated on the chart, repeat
Row 3 61 times more.
Row 65: As Row 3, ending with
sl st in last 3ch-sp (do not make
last block), turn.
Row 66: (Dec) Sl st along next
3 sts and in first 3ch-sp, patt to
end of row making blocks as
Row 3 in each 3ch-sp to end, turn.
Row 67: As Row 65.
Row 68: As Row 66.
Rep last two rows six times more.
Row 81–143: (Dec) Sl st along
next 3 sts and in first 3ch-sp, patt
to end of row, ending with sl st in
last 3ch-sp to end, turn.
Last Row: Sl st across last 3 sts
and in the corner.
Fasten off and sew in ends.
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 65
➻
MAKE IT
Pattern instructions
ALTERNATIVE PATTERN
If you are finding working the full
width of the blanket difficult you
can alternatively make 80 separate
squares, each worked half in
yarn A and half in another colour.
Using the chart as your guide you
can then arrange your blocks in
the zig-zag pattern and whipstitch the squares together.
making blocks as Row 3 in each
3ch-sp to end, turn.
Row 10: Sl st along next 3 sts
and in first 3ch-sp, patt to end of
row, ending with sl st in last 3chsp to end, turn.
Rep Row 10 five times more.
Last Row: Sl st across last 3 sts
and into the corner.
Fasten off and sew in ends.
With 3.5mm hook and yarn D, 6ch.
Row 1: 1tr in fourth ch from
hook, 1tr in each of next 2ch,
turn – 1 Block.
Row 2: 6ch, 1tr in fourth ch from
hook, 1tr in each of next 2ch,
(sl st, 3ch, 3tr) in next 3ch-sp of
previous row, turn – 2 blocks.
Row 3: 6ch, 1tr in fourth ch from
hook, 1tr in each of next 2ch,
*(sl st, 3ch, 3tr) in next 3ch-sp of
previous row; rep from * across,
turn – 3 blocks.
Using the chart as a guide
arrange blocks of colour in
zig-zag patchwork pattern and
whip-stitch squares tog.
Row 3 forms pattern row,
increasing by one Block each row.
Working colour change as
indicated, rep Row 3 five times
more. Fasten off yarn D.
Row 9: (Dec) Join yarn A in
first 3ch-sp, patt to end of row
In order to make the patchwork
pattern, make the following
number of blocks using yarn A
and the following
contrasting colour:
Yarn B: Gold x 11.
Yarn C: Coral x 8.
Yarn D: Cherry x 7.
Yarn E: Raspberry x 6.
Yarn F: Heather x 5.
Yarn G: Sage x 6.
Yarn H: Violet x 8.
Yarn I: Indigo x 6.
Yarn J: Rose x 7.
Yarn K: Mint x 8.
Yarn L: Lupin x 8.
END
CORNER TO CORNER
The corner to corner technique can
seem a bit daunting. But there are just
a few things you need to remember.
Generally you work from the
bottom right corner of the diagram
and work in diagonal rows of blocks.
Each block is made up of 3 chains
and three trebles. The blocks attach
by slip stitching to the 3ch of blocks
from the previous row.
You can increase by adding a new
block at the beginning of each row.
66 Inside Crochet
To begin your C2C crochet, work
6ch, work 1tr in the fourth chain from
the hook and then work 1tr in each
of the next two stitches. One block
is made.
Turn the block and work 6ch again.
Two blocks are needed in Row 2, one
is the increase and the other will be
made in the 3ch-sp of the block from
Row 1. You simply increase the rows
one block at a time until you get the
size you need.
143 142 141 140 139 138 137 136 135 134 133 132 131 130 129 128 127 126 125 124 123 122 121 120 119 118 117 116 115 114 113 112 111 110 109 108 107 106 105 104 103 102 101 100 99 98 97 96 95 94 93 92 91 90 89 88 87 86 85 84 83 82 81 80
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136
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135
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127
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113
50
112
49
111
48
110
47
109
46
108
45
107
44
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42
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41
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40
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39
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38
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66
3
65
2
64
1
64 63 62 61 60 59 58 57 56 55 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21
Cherry
Coral
Violet
Raspberry
Life Cream
Gold
Lupin
Indigo
20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
Mint
Rose
Heather
Sage
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 67
➻
MAKE IT
Pattern instructions
Happy Heart Garland Set
BY SUE RAWLINSON
A simple garland that can be made in an evening,
perfect for brightening up any wall, hanging over
your bed, or turning into pretty accessories.
ADD TO THE STASH
Buy this pure cotton yarn from
www.woolwarehouse.co.uk
MATERIALS
● DMC Natura XL, 100% cotton,
100g/75m/82yds
Yarn A: Ecru 03 x 1 ball
Yarn B: Mer de Sud 87 x 1 ball
Yarn C: Bonbon 40 x 1 ball
Yarn D: Fuchsia 43 x 1 ball
Yarn E: Chartreuse Green 80
x 1 ball
Yarn F: Purple 6 x 1 ball
● 6mm hook
● Yarn needle
● Jewellery findings as desired
– earring hoops, keyrings etc.
YARN ALTERNATIVES
Use any other super chunky
cotton yarn, or for smaller
hearts any other cotton yarn
– remembering to go down in
hook size as on yarn band.
TENSION
Exact tension is not essential for
this project.
MEASUREMENTS
Heart width: 0.5cm/¼in.
Length of garland: 4m/4½yds.
DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY
Sue lives in the North West
of England. You can follow
her journey on Instagram
@sweetpeafamilycrochet and
at www.sweetpeafamilyblog.
wordpress.com.
68 Inside Crochet
PATTERN NOTES
Shorter garlands can be made
by reducing the number of heart
motifs; garlands can be made
using 15 hearts to measure
approximately 1.9m/2yds or
with 20 hearts to measure
approximately 2.4m/2.6yds.
The heart motif can be used to
make other projects – for example,
add a brooch back to made a little
brooch, add earring wires to make
a pair of heart earrings and sew
three together to make a keyring.
HEART MOTIF
Make 36, six in
each shade
With 6mm hook, make an
START
Always work 10ch interval
between each heart.
adjustable ring.
Rnd 1: (3ch, 5tr, 1dtr, 5tr, 3ch,
sl st) in ring.
Cut yarn and fasten off.
Pull starting tail tightly to close
ring and form heart shape. Darn
in yarn tails to neaten.
GARLAND
With 6mm hook and yarn A,
30ch, insert hook in centre of
one heart from front to back
and join with 1dc, 10ch, [attach
a different coloured heart with
1dc, 10ch] rep until one of each
different coloured heart has been
attached.
Cont as set working this colour
repetition until all 36 hearts have
been joined, 30ch, cut
yarn and fasten
END
off neatly.
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 69
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Brought to y ou in association w ith
INTRODUCING
TH E B UT TER FLY EFFEC T
This beautiful, intricate square is sure to keep you on your toes. Just like the life
of a butterfly it changes and evolves. This is the Butterfly Effect…
Pattern by KELA AHNHEM AKA CROCHETINGKAY
W
e are so pleased
to be introducing
you to the first
part of the first ever CAL by
SistersInStitch – and are
delighted that they have
agreed to share part one
of this stunningly detailed
blanket with Inside Crochet
readers. This exclusive first
look at Kela Ahnhem’s new
pattern is also the perfect way to explore the myriad
shades of Yarn and Colors Must Have and Epic yarns.
With beautiful colours and a delicate, intricate and
ever-changing pattern, Swedish designer Kela Ahnhem’s
new blanket crochet-along, The Butterfly Effect,
introduces new stitches for experienced crocheters and
presents an exciting challenge for the novice hooker.
This ten-part CAL was first conceived in the spring of last
year, and along with Kela’s design partner Therese, the
pair – as SistersInStitch – have produced a pretty blanket
that explores colour and texture.
72 Inside Crochet
THE DESIGN TEAM
Kela Ahnhem is the designer behind The Butterfly Effect,
and lives in Sweden. Also known as crochetingkay, she
is originally a songwriter, and creativity and pushing
boundaries is part of Kela’s daily life. Even though she
has not been crocheting for very long – or designing
for that matter! – Kela loves crochet so much that she
recently went into business with another designer,
Therese Eghult, and created SistersInStitch.
Therese Eghult is also a crochet designer based
in Sweden. For The Butterfly Effect, Therese (better
known as crochetedbytess) has created the BE Future
colourway. While Kela has been designing, Therese has
been busy behind the scenes, testing the pattern and
more. “There is so much more than just designing when
it comes to a CAL, this has truly been a team effort.”
SistersInStitch host live videos and debates on
Instagram (Sip Stitch Live), and document their
crocheting, creativity, motherhood and business with The
Sip Stitch Podcast. The Butterfly Effect is their first CAL
and they are hoping to take people on an unforgettable
journey. With a forum on their homepage, video tutorials
W IN !
ur pa ck
a B E Pre se nt col o
We ’re giv ing aw ay
ya rn
ave
H
ust
M
s
lor
of Ya rn a nd Co
.
n B ut te r fly Ef fe c t
to cre ate yo ur ow
eti tio ns
mp
/co
.uk
o
t.c
che
Vis it w w w.i nsi de cro
To follow the SistersInStitch
CAL and grow your square
into a full blanket, follow
their online journey at
www.sistersinstitch.com/cal
B U Y YAR N PAC KS H ER E:
shop. siste rsinstitch .com
ya rna ndcolors .com
PART ONE BEGINS THE STORY… “FROM DEEP WITHIN THE SOUL AND SOMEWHERE
IN THE HEART, THERE WAS THE TINIEST OF RUMBLES AND A MILLION TINY
SPARKS. TURNING NOTHING INTO SOMETHING. THIS WAS JUST THE START, AND
WHEN IT ALL WAS FINISHED IT SPLIT UP INTO TEN DIFFERENT PARTS.”
and step-by-step pictures, along with full charts for every
step of the CAL, they encourage anyone to join in the fun.
THE CREATIVE JOURNEY
“When I started creating the Butterfly Effect, I didn’t know
what I was doing. I had no plan, no real idea except for
the fact that I wanted to prove to myself that I too could
make a beautiful contemporary granny square,” says
Kela. “This motivation had all grown out of the fact that
I had not been completely happy with the squares that I
had entered in a granny square contest.” Our editor Claire
Montgomerie saw the first nine or so rounds of Kela’s
design and fell in love with it, and over the coming months
Kela would contact Yarn and Colors to devise a plan for a
CAL. “Never in a million years did I expect that this design
would end up where it is now, as a CAL or even that I would
turn it into a whole blanket,” Kela adds. “The blanket is
like a fairy tale and it takes you on a journey; I let the yarn
guide me and simply let my imagination run wild.” A trip
to Amsterdam to meet with Yarn and Colors and hours of
work led to the final pattern, which is shared in ten parts
over the duration of the CAL. “Getting the opportunity to
share this pattern and this whole experience with the rest
of the crocheting community is just beyond amazing and
hopefully it won’t disappoint.”
Three yarn packs by Yarn and Colors have been
produced to create different colourways: BE Past, BE
Present and BE Future, and depending on the yarn you
select (Must Have or Epic), there are two sizes. What
appeals to a lot of crocheters is the mindful way the stitches
are placed, and our exclusive chart will be there to support
anybody attempting a more challenging pattern for the first
time. And although the yarn packs are both cotton yarn,
there’s no reason not to explore other natural fibres from
the Yarn and Colors range.
For extra help with the pattern, SistersInStitch will be
sharing videos on their homepage and YouTube channel.
We’d love to see your progress on the blanket, so don’t
forget to tag us in your makes and add # m y insidecrochet
and #thebutterflyeffectCAL2019 to your posts.
While you’ll find part one of the crochet-along right here
in Inside Crochet, you can learn all about the following
parts of the CAL here: www.sistersinstitch.com/cal
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 73
16
17
14
13
15
12
11
10
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
MATERIALS
● Yarn and Colors Must-Have,
100% cotton, 50g/125m/137yds
Yarn A: Sunflower 014 x 1 ball
Yarn B: Cantaloupe 016
x 1 ball
Yarn C: Girly Pink 035 x 1 ball
Yarn D: White 001 x 1 ball
Yarn E: Blossom 045 x 1 ball
Yarn F: Eucalyptus 080 x 1 ball
Yarn G: Teak 008 x 1 ball
● 3.5mm hook
using Yarn and Colors Epic in
Shark Grey or Ice Blue.
TENSION
Work first 9 rounds to measure
10 x 10cm/4 x 4in using
3.5mm hook, or size required to
obtain tension.
SPECIAL STITCHES
3trCL: Tr3tog in same stitch.
2trCL: Tr2tog in same stitch.
MEASUREMENTS
Finished square is 20 x 20cm/
8 x 8in.
YARN ALTERNATIVES
DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY
This project also looks great
worked in a single colour – try
Kela Ahnhem is a crochet
designer based in Stockholm.
74 Inside Crochet
Stay in the loop and see what
she’s up to! Find her on Instagram
@crochetingkay or visit her
website with Therese Eghult at
www.sistersinstitch.com.
V2: (1tr, 2ch, 1tr) in same stitch.
Bpsl-st: Sl st worked as a raised
back stitch.
Popcorn: 5tr in same st, remove
hook, insert hook back in first of
5 tr and pick up working loop, pull
loop through and close with 1ch
(this 1ch does not count as a st).
Toffee Popcorn: Work as for
Popcorn but change to second
colour on last pull through of
second tr, change back to first
colour on last pull through of
third tr.
Picot A: Worked with sl st placed
in first ch of picot. Number
of chains are written like this:
picot1a, picot2a, picot3a etc.
Picot B: Worked with sl st placed
in st below, through both legs.
Number of chains written as
crochet (htr)
16
chain stitch
slip stitch
back loop/chain
14
15
13
double crochet (dc)
12
half treble crochet (htr)
11
treble crochet (tr)
10
rdcf
9
rdcb
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
rhtrf
rhtfb
rtrf
rtfb
Picot
2tr Cluster
long dc
Picot
2trCluster
3trCluster
Toffee Popcorn
above: picot1b, picot2b,
picot3b etc.
Long dc: Like a normal dc just
placed further down in the
pattern, creating a longer st.
yarn with a sl st and 1ch (here
called first), continue to next
st (here called second) – at end
of rnd make an invisible join in
second st, therefore turning first
st into a complete dc:
PATTERN NOTES
Unless otherwise stated in the
pattern, all raised sts are made
around the body of the stitch,
around the vertical post not just
around the top stitch.
All rounds are started so that they
can be finished with an invisible
join. For instance, where a round
starts with a dc, start by attaching
tch
h
crochet (dc)
le crochet (htr)
Starting with dc: Sl st, 1ch.
Starting with htr: Sl st, 1ch.
Starting with tr: Sl st, 2ch.
rhtrfAt start of each round work 1ch
for first dc, 2ch for first htr, 3ch
rhtfbfor first tr etc.
rtrf
rtfb
and continue to next round – be
sure to follow the stitch count.
If changing colours after each
round, fasten threads after each
round to avoid having to fasten
too many threads at the end.
However, as there are several
rounds involving back and front
post sts be sure not to fasten
threads so they interrupt the next
round. Instead, fasten them a
round or two later.
If making the pattern in just one
colour, sl st to finish each round
When working in blo, try to use
the third st in the back to make
work secure.
Block work to ensure the beauty
of it comes through. Block after
Rnd 17 as this round might feel
a bit crowded – don’t worry, this
will sort itself out!
SQUARE ONE
With yarn A make an
adjustable ring. 1ch,
8dc in ring, sl st in first dc – 8dc.
Rnd 1: 2ch (counts as first part
of 3trCl), 2trCl in same dc, 2ch,
(3trCl in next dc, 2ch) seven
times, sl st to join – 8 Clusters,
8 2ch-sps.
Rnd 2: With yarn B [rdcf around
START
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 75
8htr, 8rhtrf, 8rdcf, 4 2ch-sps,
60dc (per side: 4tr, 2rtrf, 2htr,
2rhtrf, 2rdcf, 15dc).
Rnd 9: With yarn E, start in any
corner 2ch-sp, *(1htr, 2ch, 1htr)
in corner 2ch-sp, 1rtrb in each
of next 4 sts, miss 1rhtrf, 1rtrb
in each of next 6 dc, miss rdcf,
1rtrb in next dc, 1tr in picot3
from Rnd 5, miss 1dc, 1rtrb in
next dc, miss rdcf, 1 rtrb in each
of next 6 dc, miss rhtrf, 1rtrb in
each of next 4 sts; rep from * to
end – 8htr, 4 2ch-sps, 4 tr, 88rtrb
(per side: 2htr, 2ch, 1tr, 22rtrb).
Rnd 10: With yarn D, start in any
corner 2ch-sp, *(1htr, 1tr, 2ch,
1tr, 1htr) in corner 2ch-sp, 1dc
in each of next 8 sts, 1htr, 1rdtrf
around rtrf from Rnd 7, miss 1tr,
1tr in next tr, 3tr in next rtrb,
(1tr, picot3a, 1tr) in next st, 3tr
in next rtrb, 1tr in next st, 1rdtrf
around rtrf from Rnd 7, miss 1tr,
1htr, 1dc in each of next 8 sts;
rep from * to end – 16htr, 48tr,
64dc, 4 2ch-sps, 4picot3a, 8rdtrf
(per side: 4htr, 12tr, 16dc, 2ch,
1picot3, 2rdtrf).
tr3tog cl, 2dc in next ch-sp] eight
times – 16dc, 8rdcf.
Rnd 3: With yarn C, start in any
rdcf, *1htr, 2tr in next dc, 2ch, 2tr
in next dc, 1htr, 1dc, 1ch, 1dc; rep
from * to end – 16tr, 8htr, 8dc,
4 2ch-sps, 4 1ch-sps.
Rnd 4: With yarn D, start in any
1ch-sp, *(1htr, 2tr, 2ch, 2tr, 1htr)
in next ch-sp, miss 1dc, 1rdcb in
each of next 3 sts, (1dc, 2ch, 1dc)
in 2ch-sp, 1rdcb in each of next
3 sts, miss 1dc; rep from * to
end – 16tr, 8htr, 8dc, 8 2ch-sps,
24rdcb.
Rnd 5: With yarn E, start in any
corner 2ch-sp (ie between 2dc),
76 Inside Crochet
*(1htr, 2tr, picot3a, 2tr, 1htr),
miss 1dc, 1rhtrb in each of next
4 sts, 1rdcb in each of next 2 sts,
(1dc, 2ch, 1dc) in 2ch-sp, 1rdcb
in each of next 2 sts, 1rhtrb in
each of next 4 sts, miss 1dc; rep
from * to end – 16tr, 8htr, 8dc,
16rdcb, 32rhtrb, 4 2ch-sps,
4 picot3a.
Rnd 6: With yarn D, start in
any 2ch-sp from Rnd 3 *1rtrf
around 2ch from Rnd 3, 4ch,
1rtrf around same 2ch, push
4 ch behind corner/picot3a
from Rnd 5, 4ch, (1tr, 2ch, 1tr)
in 2ch-sp from Rnd 5, 4ch;
rep from * to end – 8rtrf, 8tr,
12 4ch-sps, 4 2ch-sps.
Rnd 7: With yarn A, start in any
2ch-sp, *(2trCL, 1ch, 2trCL,
2ch, 2trCL, 1ch, 2trCL) in same
2ch-sp, 4ch, 1rdcf around rtrf
from Rnd 6, 3ch, 1rdcf around
next rtrf, (place 3 ch behind as
with 4 ch from Rnd 6), 4ch; rep
from * to end – 16 2trCL, 8 rdcf,
8 1ch-sps, 4 2ch-sps, 4 3ch-sps,
8 4ch-sps.
Rnd 8: With yarn C, start in any
corner 2ch-sp, *(2tr, 2ch, 2tr) in
next 2ch-sp, 1rtrf around 2trCL,
1htr in next ch-sp, 1rhtrf around
2trCL, 6dc in 4ch-sp, 1rdcf
around rdcf, 3dc in 3ch-sp, 1rdcf
around rdcf, 6dc in next 4ch-sp,
1rhtrf, 1htr, 1rtrf around 2trCL;
rep from * to end – 16tr, 8rtrf,
Rnd 11: With yarn B, start in any
corner 2ch-sp, *(2tr, 2ch, 2tr)
in corner 2ch-sp, 1rtrb, 1rhtrb,
1rdcb in each of next 8 sts, 1ch,
miss next htr and next rdtrf, 1rdcb
in next tr, 1rhtrb in next tr, 1rtrb
in each of next 6 tr, 1rhtrb in next
tr, 1rdcb in next tr, 1ch, miss 2 sts,
1rdcb in each of next 8 sts, 1rhtrb
in next htr, 1rtrb in next tr; rep
from * to end – 32rtrb, 16rhtrb,
72 rdcb, 8 1ch-sps, 2 2ch-sps,
16tr (per side: 8rtrb, 4rhtrb,
18rdcb, 2 1ch-sps, 2ch, 4tr).
Rnd 12: With yarn A, start in any
corner 2ch-sp (Note: In this rnd
work only in ch-sps and miss all
other sts): *(2trCL, 1ch, 2trCL,
2ch, 2trCL, 1ch, 2trCL) in corner
2ch-sp, 6ch, miss 11 sts, (2trCL,
1ch, 2trCL) in next 1ch-sp, 5ch,
(2trCL, 1ch, 2trCL) in next 1ch-sp,
6ch, miss 11 sts; rep from * to
end – 32 2trCL, 16 1ch-sps,
8 6ch-sps, 4 5ch-sps, 4 2ch-sps
(per side: 8 2trCL, 4 1ch-sps,
2 6ch-sps, 1 5ch-sp, 2ch).
Rnd 13: With yarn C, start in any
corner 2ch-sp, *(2tr, 1dtr, 2ch,
1dtr, 2tr) in 2ch-sp, 1rtrf around
next 2trCL, 1tr in 1ch-sp, 1rtrf
around next 2trCL, (4tr, 1dtr, 1ch,
1dtr, 4tr) in 6ch-sp, 1rtrf around
next 2trCL, 1tr in 1ch-sp, 1rtrf
around next 2trCL, now work
into sts in Rnd 11 behind 5ch of
Rnd 12, miss 2 sts from Rnd 11,
1rdcb in next rtrb, [1tr in 5ch-sp,
1rtrb in next rtrb from Rnd 11]
twice, (1dtr, picot3a, 1dtr) in
back of next ch, [1rtrb in next
rtrb from Rnd 11, 1tr in back
ch] twice, 1rdcb in Rnd 11, cont
working in sts in Rnd 12 working
1rtrf around next 2trCL, 1tr in
1ch-sp, 1rtrf around next 2trCL,
(4tr, 1dtr, 1ch, 1dtr, 4tr) in 6ch-sp,
1rtrf around next 2trCL, 1tr in
1ch-sp, 1rtrf around next 2trCL;
rep from * to end – 32rtrf, 112tr,
32dtr, 8rdcb, 16rtrb, 4picot3a, 8
1ch-sps, 4 2ch-sps (per side: 8rtrf,
28tr, 8dtr, 2rdcb, 4rtrb, 1picot3,
2 1ch-sps, 2ch).
Rnd 14: With yarn C, start in any
corner 2ch-sp (Note: This rnd
creates ch-sps on back of work
that will be worked in later), *(sl
st, 3ch, sl st) in corner 2ch-sp, 3ch,
miss 1 dtr, [bpsl-st in next tr, 2ch,
miss 2 sts] three times, bpsl-st in
next dtr, 2ch, miss 1ch-sp, bpsl-st
in next dtr, [2ch, miss 2 sts, bpsl-st
in next tr,] twice, 2ch, miss next
4 sts, bpsl-st in next tr, 3ch, miss
next 4 sts and picot3a, bpsl-st in
next tr, 2ch, miss 4 next sts, [bpslst in next tr, 2ch, miss 2 sts] twice,
bpsl-st in next dtr, 2ch, miss 1chsp, bpsl-st in next dtr, [2ch, miss 2
sts, bpsl-st in next tr] three times,
3ch, miss 1dtr; rep from * to end
– 64 bpsl-st, 56 2ch-sps, 8 3ch-sps
(per side: 16 bpsl-st, 14 2ch-sps, 2
3ch-sps, 2 sl sts).
Rnd 15: With yarn F, working in
ch-sp made from Rnd 14 only
(unless clearly stated in patt) start
in a 2ch-sp three ch-sps before a
corner 2ch-sp, attach yarn with
(sl st, 1ch, 1dc) in same 2ch-sp,
*(sl st, 2ch, 1tr, 1dtr) in next
2ch-sp, tr2tog working first tr in
same 2ch-sp and second in next
3ch-sp, (1htr, 1dc, 3htr) in same
3ch-sp, rdcf around sl st between
ch-sps, (3htr, 1tr, 3htr) in corner
3ch-sp, rdcf around sl st between
ch-sps, (3htr, 1dc, 1htr) in next
3ch-sp, tr2tog working first tr in
same 3ch-sp and second in next
2ch-sp, (1dtr, 1tr, 2ch, sl st) in
same 2ch-sp as tr2tog, [3dc in
next 2ch-sp] five times, (2tr, 1htr,
1dc) in next 2ch-sp, (1dc, 1htr,
1tr, 1ch, 1tr, 1htr, 1dc) in next
3ch-sp, (1dc, 1htr, 2tr) in next
2ch-sp, [3dc in next 2ch-sp] five
times; rep from * to end omitting
2dc on last side – per side: 2 sl sts,
2 2ch-sps, 9tr, 2dtr, 2tr2tog,
18htr, 36dc, 2rdcf, 1ch-sp.
Rnd 16: In this round some
bpsl-sts will be placed around
sl st from Rnd 14 and made
behind the work whilst working
on RS. Cut yarn A after each
toffee popcorn. With yarns E and
A, attach yarns from WS with
sl st around bpsl-st from Rnd 14
(where rdcf is worked in previous
round). Start with yarn E, 3ch,
toffee popcorn (working middle
st in yarn A), around the corner
ch from Rnd 13 in front of Rnd
15, 3ch, sl st from behind in sl st
from Rnd 14 on other side of
corner, 5ch, place this ch behind
work and sl st in first of 15 dc,
[picot3a, sl st in each of next two
sts] three times, picot6a, miss
1dc, [sl st in each of next two sts,
picot3a] three times, sl st in last
of 15 dc, 3ch, sl st behind work in
bpsl-st before 3ch-sp, 4ch, toffee
popcorn between rtrb 3 and 4
from Rnd 11, 4ch, sl st behind
work in bpsl-st after 3ch-sp, 3ch,
sl st in first of 15 dc, [picot3a,
sl st in each of next two sts] three
times, picot6a, miss 1dc, [sl st
in each of next two sts, picot3a]
three times, sl st, 5ch; rep from
* to end – per side: 4 3ch-sps,
2 5ch-sps, 12 picot3a, 2 picot6a,
2 toffee popcorn, 2 4ch-sps,
4 bpsl-sts, 28 sl sts.
Rnd 17: Using yarn F, this round
will be crocheted into Rnd 15,
missing all of the sts from Rnd 16
EXCEPT for ch connecting to
toffee popcorn from Rnd 16
where you will crochet around
both the ch AND the st from
Rnd 15.
Start by making a sl st in blo in
st before last picot3a before a
corner – this will be a st where
you did a sl st in Rnd 16, *(2htr,
tr, picot2b) in 2ch-sp, 1tr, 1htr,
long dc around tr2tog, 1htr
in each of next two sts, (1tr,
picot2b, 1tr) in next htr, 1htr,
1dc, miss 1 st (you should now be
right before the ch reaching from
the back down to the corner
toffee popcorn), crochet around
the ch and into st working 1sl st,
1htr, 1tr, (2tr, rtrf round toffee
popcorn, picot2b, 2tr), 1tr, 1htr,
1sl st (corner mid leaf), miss 1 st,
1dc, 1htr, (1tr, picot2b, 1tr), 1htr
in each of next two sts, long dc
around tr2tog, 1htr, 1tr, picot2b,
(1tr, 2htr) in 2ch-sp, sl st in blo
after first picot3a (whole corner
leaf bunch complete).
For the next part you will crochet
around the small picot row from
Rnd 16, creating green around
them and making them pop up
like buds. You will be crocheting
in front of them with tr2tog and
making small chains to go behind
them. Don’t worry if the buds
are not placed right when you do
this, when you have completed
the green you push them
through the little spaces created
in front of each. There should be
an attachment point where you
made the chains in Rnd 14 and
this is where you place the tr,
except for the mid picot6a where
you place them in ch-sp from
Rnd 13.
1ch, 1tr in front of first picot3a,
2ch, [tr2tog working in front of
same picot3a and in front of next
one, 2ch,] twice, tr2tog in front
of third picot3a and in ch-sp in
front of picot6a, 3ch, tr2tog in
same ch-sp and in front of fifth
picot3a, 2ch, [tr2tog, 2ch] twice,
1tr in front of sixth picot3a, 1ch,
sl st in blo to the right behind
last picot, 1ch. Push little buds
through the space in front of
so that 2ch and 3ch are behind
them – flower bud section to the
right complete.
(1dc, 2tr, picot2b, 1htr), 1htr in
each of next 2 sts, 1dc, (push
the ch to the right and miss it
so that is it still visible from RS),
1sl st, 2htr in each of next two
sts, (1tr, 2ch, 1tr) in 1ch-sp, 2htr
in each of next two sts, 1sl st,
(push the ch again to your right
and crochet over that), 1dc, 1htr
in each of next 2 sts, (1htr, 1tr,
picot2b, 1tr, 1dc), 1ch, 1sl st in
blo behind first picot3a on next
flower bud section, 1ch – middle
leaf bunch complete.
1tr in front of first picot3a, 2ch,
[tr2tog working in front of same
picot3a and in front of next
one, 2ch,] twice, tr2tog in front
of third picot3a and in ch-sp in
front of picot6a, 3ch, tr2tog in
same ch-sp and in front of fifth
picot3a, 2ch, [tr2tog, 2ch]
twice, 1tr in front of sixth
picot3a, 1ch, sl st in blo to right
behind last picot. Push little buds
through the space in front of
them so that 2ch and 3ch are
behind them – flower bud section
to the left done.
Rep from * till end – per side:
5 1ch-sps, 26htr, 21dc, 7 picot2b,
2 long dc, 6dc, 8 sl sts,
END
3 rtrf, 13 2ch-sps,
12 tr2tog, 2 3ch-sps.
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 77
➻
MAKE IT
Pattern instructions
MATERIALS
● Kate Selene Squish Sock,
75% Merino wool/25% nylon,
100g/425m/465yds
Yarn A: Mint 100s and 1000s
x 1 skein
Yarn B: Pink 100s and 1000s
x 1 skein
● 4mm hook
YARN ALTERNATIVES
You can use any 4ply sock yarn
to achieve a similar effect.
TENSION
Exact tension is not critical for
this design.
Work 5tr-cl and 4ch-sp and
8 rows in pattern, before
blocking, to measure 10 x 10cm/
4 x 4in using 4mm hook, or size
required to obtain tension.
MEASUREMENTS
Before blocking:
120cm/47in x 60cm/23½in.
After blocking:
128cm/50in x 64cm/25in.
DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY
Sarah-Jane enjoys designing in
her spare time. She loves being
inventive with crochet and
likes her designs to be simple,
fun and quirky and most of all
make people smile. Find her on
Instagram @flo_and_dot.
PATTERN NOTES
3ch counts as 1tr throughout.
Treble cluster (tr-cl) is made up of
3tr for main shawl, 2tr for edging
and is worked in ch-sp.
Ch-sp is made up of 2ch
between 2tr-cl.
Hundreds &
Thousands Shawl
BY SARAH-JANE HICKS
A sweet shawl in simple granny stitches, this is a
perfect design for your favourite hand-dyed yarn.
ADD TO THE STASH
Buy this hand-dyed yarn from
www.bykateselene.etsy.com
78 Inside Crochet
SHAWL
Using yarn A and 4mm
hook, 4ch, sl st in first
ch to form a ring.
Row 1: 3ch (counts as 1 st here
and throughout), in ring work
2tr, [2ch, 3tr] twice, turn
– 3tr-cl, 2ch-sp.
Row 2: 5ch (counts as 1tr, 2ch
here and throughout), [(3tr, 2ch,
3tr) in ch-sp, 2ch] twice, 1tr in top
of 3ch, turn – 4tr-cl, 5ch-sp, 2tr.
Row 3: 3ch, 2tr in ch-sp, [2ch,
3tr in ch-sp] to end, turn – 5tr-cl,
4ch-sp.
Row 4: 5ch, [(3tr, 2ch, 3tr) in
ch-sp, 2ch] four times, 1tr in top
of 3ch, turn – 8tr-cl, 9ch-sp, 2tr.
Row 5: Rep Row 3 – 9tr-cl, 8ch-sp.
START
64cm/ 25in
(after blocking)
128cm/50in
(after blocking)
Row 24: 5ch, [3tr in ch-sp, 2ch]
twice, [(3tr, 2ch, 3tr) in ch-sp,
2ch, (3tr in ch-sp, 2ch) twice]
ten times, 1tr in top of 3ch, turn
– 42tr-cl, 43ch-sp, 2tr.
Row 25: Rep Row 3 – 43tr-cl,
42ch-sp.
Row 26: Rep Row 6 – 42tr-cl,
43ch-sp, 2tr.
Rows 27–31: Rep Rows 3 & 6,
ending with Row 3 rep on
Row 31.
Row 6: 5ch, [3tr in ch-sp, 2ch]
to end, 1tr in top of 3ch, turn
– 8tr-cl, 9ch-sp, 2tr.
Row 7: Rep Row 3 – 9tr-cl,
8ch-sp.
Row 8: 5ch, [(3tr, 2ch, 3tr) in
ch-sp, 2ch] eight times, 1tr in top
of 3ch, turn – 16tr-cl, 17ch-sp, 2tr.
Row 9: Rep Row 3 – 17tr-cl,
16ch-sp.
Row 10: Rep Row 6 – 16tr-cl,
17ch-sp, 2tr.
Row 11: Rep Row 3 – 17tr-cl,
16ch-sp.
[(3tr, 2ch, 3tr) in ch-sp, 2ch, 3tr in
ch-sp, 2ch] five times, 1tr in top of
3ch, turn – 32tr-cl, 33ch-sp, 2tr.
Row 17: Rep Row 3 – 33tr-cl,
32ch-sp.
Row 18: Rep Row 6 – 32tr-cl,
33ch-sp, 2tr.
Rows 19–23: Rep Rows 3 & 6,
ending with Row 3 rep on
Row 23.
65ch-sp, 2tr.
EDGING
Row 43: 3ch, 1tr in ch-sp, 2ch,
2tr in same ch-sp, (2tr, 2ch,
2tr) in each ch-sp, to end, turn
– 130tr-cl, 65ch-sp.
Row 44: Sl st to first ch-sp, 3ch,
1tr in ch-sp, 2ch, 2tr in same
ch-sp, (2tr, 2ch, 2tr) in each
ch-sp to end, turn.
Rows 45–48: Rep Row 44.
Fasten off.
Row 32: 5ch, [(3tr, 2ch, 3tr) in
ch-sp, 2ch, 3tr in ch-sp, 2ch] ten
times, [(3tr, 2ch, 3tr) in ch-sp,
2ch] twice, [3tr in ch-sp, 2ch, (3tr,
2ch, 3tr) in ch-sp, 2ch] ten times,
1tr in top of 3ch, turn – 64tr-cl,
65ch-sp, 2tr.
Row 33: Rep Row 3 – 65tr-cl,
64ch-sp.
Row 34: Rep Row 6 – 64tr-cl,
65ch-sp, 2tr.
Rows 35–40: Rep Rows 3 & 6.
TOP EDGING
Using matching yarn and 4mm
hook, work a combination of ch,
dc and picot sts across top of
shawl as folls:
Join yarn to end of Row 42, 1ch,
*(2dc, 3ch, sl st in first ch, 1dc) in
ch-sp, 3ch across to next ch-sp;
rep from * to end, leaving off
last 3ch.
Fasten off.
Join in yarn B.
Row 41: Rep Row 3 – 65tr-cl,
64ch-sp.
Row 42: Rep Row 6 – 64tr-cl,
FINISHING
Weave in ends and block
shawl to dimensions
above or as required.
END
chain stitch
slip stitch
treble crochet (tr)
Row 12: 5ch, [(3tr, 2ch, 3tr) in
ch-sp, 2ch, (3tr in ch-sp, 2ch)
twice] five times, (3tr, 2ch, 3tr) in
ch-sp, 2ch, 1tr in top of 3ch, turn
– 22tr-cl, 23ch-sp, 2tr.
Row 13: Rep Row 3 – 23tr-cl,
22ch-sp.
Row 14: Rep Row 6 – 22tr-cl,
23ch-sp, 2tr.
Row 15: Rep Row 3 – 23tr-cl,
22ch-sp.
Row 16: 5ch, [3tr in ch-sp, 2ch,
(3tr, 2ch, 3tr) in ch-sp, 2ch] five
times, [3tr in ch-sp, 2ch] twice,
1
6
4
2
3
5
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 79
➻
MAKE IT
Pattern instructions
Sunset Sampler
Cushion
BY JANE CZAJA
Tr y out a variety of fun stitches
– this striking cushion cover will
co-ordinate with the Sampler
Blanket from issue 102.
ADD TO THE STASH
range at
Choose from the complete colour
.com
ools
epw
kshe
.blac
www
MATERIALS
● Stylecraft Special DK,
100% acrylic,
100g/295m/437yds
Yarn A: Copper 1029 x 1 ball
Yarn B: Spice 1711 x 1 ball
Yarn C: Tomato 1723 x 2 balls
Yarn D: Mustard 1823 x 1 ball
Yarn E: Lime 1712 x 1 ball
● 5.5mm hook
● Stitch marker
● Cushion pad, 40 x 40cm/
16 x 16in
YARN ALTERNATIVES
You can use any aran weight
or two strands of any DK
weight acrylic yarn to achieve
a similar effect.
TENSION
Exact tension is not essential
for this pattern.
MEASUREMENTS
Finished cushion is approximately
40 x 40cm/16 x 16in.
DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY
Jane loves experimenting with
colour and stitches, and runs
workshops to inspire others with
her passion for crochet. Find
80 Inside Crochet
her on Instagram @janeccrochet
and visit her website
www.janescrochet.com.
SPECIAL STITCHES
Bobble: Yoh, insert hook in next
st, pull up lp, yoh, pull through 2
lps, *yoh, insert hook in same st,
pull up lp, yoh, pull through 2 lps;
rep from * once more, yoh, pull
yarn through all 4 lps on hook.
Double Criss-Cross (DCC):
Yoh, insert hook in first missed
st, loosely draw lp across front
of 2 tr just worked, yoh and
complete as normal tr, insert
hook in second missed st, loosely
draw lp across front of same 2 tr,
yoh and complete as normal tr.
Mini Bean (MB): Insert hook in
next st, yoh, pull through lp, yoh,
insert hook in same st, pull through
lp, yoh, pull through all 4 lps.
PATTERN NOTES
Change colour at end of row by
pulling new colour through final
two loops of last stitch worked.
2ch at start of row counts as 1tr
throughout. Mark the top of this
chain with a stitch marker so as
not to miss this last stitch
of each row.
SIDE ONE
With yarn A and
5.5mm hook, 51ch.
Row 1: (RS) 1dc in second ch
from hook, 1dc in each ch across,
turn – 50 sts.
Row 2: (WS) 1ch, 1dc, [Bobble
(see Special Stitches), 7dc] to last
st, 1dc, turn.
Row 3: 1ch (does not count as st
throughout), dc to end, turn.
Row 4: 1ch, 1dc, [4dc, Bobble,
3dc] to end, 1dc, turn.
Row 5: As Row 3.
Rows 6 & 7: As Rows 2 & 3,
change to yarn B on last pull
through of Row 7, turn.
START
DOUBLE CRISS-CROSS
Row 18: 1ch, dc to end, turn.
Row 19: 2ch, 2tr, [miss 2 sts, 2tr,
DCC (see Special Stitches)] to last
3 sts, 3tr, turn – 50 sts.
Rows 20 & 21: As Rows 18 & 19.
Row 22: 1ch, dc to end,
change to yarn E on last
pull through, turn.
BOBBLE BAND
Rows 23–25: As Rows 3–5.
Rows 26 & 27: As Rows 2 & 3,
change to yarn D on last pull
through of Row 27, turn.
BLOCK SHELLS
Row 8: 1ch, dc to end, turn.
Row 9: 2ch, 2tr, [miss 2 sts, 5tr
in next st, miss 2 sts, 3tr] to last
7 sts, miss 2 sts, 5tr in next st,
miss 2 sts, 2tr, turn – 50 sts.
Rows 10–12: Rep Rows 8 & 9
once and then Row 8 once more,
change to yarn C on last pull
through of Row 12, turn.
MINI BEAN
Row 28: 1ch, dc to end, turn
– 50 sts.
Row 29: *[1ch, miss 1 st, MB
(see Special Stitches) in next st];
to end, turn.
Row 30: 2ch, MB in space to left
hand side of next MB (do not
work in 1ch), [1ch, MB in space
to left of next MB] to end, turn.
Rows 31–33: As Row 30.
Row 34: 1ch, [1dc in space to left
of next MB, 1dc in ch] across, 1dc
in top of 2ch, change to yarn C on
last pull through, turn – 50 sts.
BOBBLE BAND
Rows 13–15: As Rows 3–5.
Rows 16 & 17: As Rows 2 & 3,
change to yarn D on last pull
through of Row 17, turn.
BOBBLE BAND
Rows 35–37: As Rows 3–5.
Rows 38 & 39: As Rows 2 & 3,
change to yarn B on last pull
through of Row 39, turn.
FAN TREBLES
Row 40: 1ch, dc to end, turn.
Row 41: 2ch, 2tr, [miss 3 sts, (3tr,
1ch, 1tr) in next st] to last 3 sts,
3tr, turn – 50 tr, 11 x 1ch-sps.
Row 42: 2ch, 2tr, [(3tr, 1ch, 1tr)
in 1ch-sp] to last 3 sts, 3tr, turn.
Row 43: 2ch, 2tr, 4tr in each
1ch-sp to last 3 tr, 3tr, turn
– 50 sts.
Row 44: 1ch, dc to end, change to
yarn A on last pull through, turn.
BOBBLE BAND
Rows 45–47: As Rows 3–5.
Rows 48–51: As Rows 2–5.
Fasten off.
SIDE TWO
With yarn B, 52ch.
Row 1: (RS) 1dc in second ch
from hook, 1dc in each ch across,
turn – 51 sts.
Rows 2–10: 1ch (does not count
as st throughout), dc to end,
change to yarn C on last pull
through of Row 10, turn.
Rows 11–20: 1ch, dc to end, turn.
Row 21: (RS) 1ch, 25dc, Bobble,
25dc, turn.
Row 22 and every foll WS
row: 1ch, dc to end, turn.
Row 23: 1ch, 23dc, Bobble, 3dc;
Bobble, 23dc, turn.
Row 25: 1ch, 21dc, [Bobble, 3dc]
twice, Bobble, 21dc, turn.
Row 27: 1ch, 19dc, [Bobble, 3dc]
three times, Bobble, 19dc, turn.
Row 29: 1ch, 17dc, [Bobble, 3dc]
four times, Bobble, 17dc, turn.
Row 31: 1ch, 15dc, [Bobble, 3dc]
five times, Bobble, 15dc, turn.
Row 33: 1ch, 13dc, [Bobble, 3dc]
six times, Bobble, 13dc, turn.
Row 35: As Row 31.
Row 37: As Row 29.
Row 39: As Row 27.
Row 41: As Row 25.
Row 43: As Row 23.
Row 45: As Row 21.
Rows 46–55: Rep Row 22,
changing to yarn B on last pull
through of Row 55, turn.
Rows 56–65: Rep Row 22.
Fasten off.
FINISHING
Place wrong sides of cushion
together.
Join yarn A to any corner with
sl st, 1ch, 3dc in same corner,
dc evenly around, working 3dc
in each corner and joining with
sl st in first dc. Insert pad before
joining fourth side.
Fasten off and sew in ends.
TASSELS
(OPTIONAL)
Cut 48 x 15cm/6in strands of yarn
to make four tassels, using 12 x
15cm/6in strands.
Attach one tassel to
END
each corner.
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 81
➻
MAKE IT
Pattern instructions
MATERIALS
● Scheepjes Stone Washed/
River Washed Colour Pack,
78%cotton/22% acrylic,
10g/26m/28yds
50 x 10g balls in different
shades
● Scheepjes Stone Washed,
78% cotton/22% acrylic,
50g/130m/142yds
Yarn A: Larimar 828 x 2 balls
● 3.5mm hook
● Pom-pom maker, 5cm/2in
● Stitch marker
TENSION
Work each square to measure
approximately 7 x 7cm/2¾ x
2¾in using 3.5mm hook, or size
required to obtain tension.
MEASUREMENTS
Finished blanket is 92.5 x
92.5cm/36½ x 36½in.
DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY
Helda is a passionate and creative
crochet designer who can be found
on Instagram at @heldap123.
SPECIAL STITCHES
CL: (1dc, 2ch, 1dc).
PM: Place marker.
PATTERN NOTES
This reversible blanket comprises
144 squares (12 across x 12
down), alternating solid squares
and two-colour squares to form
the pretty patchwork pattern,
Each square uses approximately
5g of yarn, making this an ideal
scrap-buster project.
Each square is made in a spiral
without joining at the end of
each round.
Adapt the pattern by making
larger squares or one big
granny square.
Josef Blanket
Keep moving SM every round to
denote start.
BY HELDA PANAGARY
Inspired by Josef Albers’ “Homage to the Square”
series of paintings, these neat little squares form
twelve rows of pure colour delight.
Squares are joined “on-the-go”
in Rnd 6. Alternatively, make
all squares before joining using
whatever method preferred.
PLAIN SQUARE
Make 72
With 3.5mm hook
and using any colour from pack,
make an adjustable ring.
START
ADD TO THE STASH
Buy these colourful yarns from
www.woolwarehouse.co.uk
82 Inside Crochet
Rnd 1: 1ch, [1dc, 2ch, 1dc
(corner made)] four times in ring.
Rnd 2: 1ch, PM in 1ch, miss
1dc, 1CL (see Special Stitches)
in 2ch-sp, [1ch, miss 2dc, 1CL in
2ch-sp] three times.
Rnd 3: 1ch, miss 1dc, 1dc in
1ch-sp marked with SM, 1ch,
PM in this 1ch, [1CL in 2ch-sp,
1ch, miss 1dc, 1dc in 1ch-sp,
1ch] four times.
Rnds 4–6: Miss 1dc, 1dc in
1ch-sp marked with SM, 1ch,
PM in this 1ch, *1CL in 2ch-sp,
(1ch, miss 1dc, 1dc) in each
1ch-sp along side of square,1ch;
rep from * three times more.
To close the square work a
couple of sl sts.
Weave in the ends.
TWO-COLOUR SQUARE
Make 72
Work Rnds 1–6 of Plain
Square, changing to new
colour on last pull through
of first dc of Rnd 4.
Leave a short yarn tail in the old
colour to sew in securely later.
JOIN ON THE GO
Join squares in Rnd 6.
Complete one square as above
and work next square up to start
of Rnd 6. Work one side as usual
up to first corner 2ch-sp, (1dc,
1ch) in this 2ch-sp, sl st in corner
2ch-sp of joining square (sl st
acts as second ch of corner), 1dc
in same place as first dc (corner
is now joined), sl st to opposite
1ch-sp of joining square, 1ch,
1dc back in 1ch-sp of Rnd 6.
the side to corner 2ch-sp, 1ch,
1CL in 2ch-sp, 1ch, miss 1dc, 1dc
in next 1ch-sp; rep from * three
times more to SM, do not join,
keep spiralling for eight rounds or
until yarn has run out.
Work a couple of sl sts to finish
and weave in the ends.
Make four pom-poms and
attach one to each of
the four corners.
END
Weave in all ends.
Cont joining sides and corners
in this way. Work any remaining
sides of Rnd 6 to finish square.
Alternatively, make all the
squares and sew them together.
BORDER
The border uses the same
techniques as the squares.
Start by placing SM in any
1ch-sp of previous round to
count the rounds more easily.
Using yarn A, make 1dc in same
place as SM, *(1ch, miss 1dc,
1dc in the next 1ch-sp) along
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 83
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MAKE IT
Pattern instructions
MATERIALS
● Paintbox Yarns Simply
DK, 100% acrylic,
100g/276m/301yds
Yarn A: White 100 x 1 ball
Yarn B: Lipstick Pink 151
x 1 ball
Yarn C: Bubblegum Pink 150
x 1 ball
Yarn D: Mustard Yellow 123
x 1 ball
Yarn E: Washed Teal 132
x 1 ball
Yarn F: Bright Peach 111
x 1 ball
Yarn G: Spearmint Green 125
x 1 ball
● 3.5mm hook
● Two buttons
● White sewing thread
and needle
YARN ALTERNATIVES
You can use any DK weight yarn
to achieve a similar effect.
TENSION
Work motif to measure
approximately 11 x 11cm/4¼ x
4¼in using 3.5mm hook, or size
required to obtain correct tension.
MEASUREMENTS
Cover measures:
31 x 11cm/12½ x 4¼in, to fit an
eight-cup cafetière.
Coaster for cafetière:
15cm/6in in diameter.
Coaster for mug:
12cm/4½in in diameter.
Cafetière Cover
& Coasters
BY THEODORA BURROW
Brighten up the dark mornings and sweep away the
winter blues with this stylish cafetière cover and
coasters in bright Scandi-inspired shades.
ADD TO THE STASH
Buy this great value yarn from
www.lovecrochet.com
86 Inside Crochet
DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY
Londoner Theodora Burrow is an
’80s kid with a love of vintage
patterns, vintage vinyl and vintage
clothes. Designer by day, DJ by
night, you can also find her on
Instagram @theodora_goes_wild.
SPECIAL STITCHES
Popcorn stitch (pc): 5tr in same
st, take hook out of working lp,
insert hook under/in top of first
tr, pick up working lp again and
draw through to close group
– 5tr popcorn made.
At start of round, 3ch counts as
first tr of 5tr pc.
PATTERN NOTES
For cafetière cover, motifs are
worked separately then joined.
A border is added to form
buttonholes.
CAFETIÈRE COVER
MOTIF
Make three
With 3.5mm hook and yarn F,
6ch, sl st in first ch to join.
Rnd 1: 3ch (counts as 1tr here and
throughout), 4tr, remove hook
from working lp, insert hook in top
of first tr, pick up working lp again
and draw through to close, 2ch,
[1pc (see Special Stitches), 2ch] five
times, sl st in top of 3ch – 6pc.
Fasten off yarn F, join in yarn E to
any 2ch-sp.
START
Rnd 2: 3ch, (1pc, 3ch, 1pc) in
same 2ch-sp, [(3ch, 1pc) twice in
next 2ch-sp] five times, 3ch, sl st
in top of 3ch – 12pc.
Fasten off yarn E, join in yarn A to
any ch-sp.
Rnd 3: 3ch, (2tr, 3ch, 3tr) in same
3ch-sp, *[3htr in next 3ch-sp]
twice, (3tr, 3ch, 3tr) in next 3chsp (corner); rep from * to last rep,
ending [3htr in next ch-sp] twice,
sl st in top of 3ch.
Rnd 4: Sl st to next 3ch-sp, 3ch
(2tr, 3ch, 3tr) in same 3ch-sp,
*miss next tr, 10tr, miss next tr,
10tr, (3tr, 3ch, 3tr) in 3ch-sp, rep
from * to last rep, ending with
last 2tr in first sl st, sl st in top of
3ch. Fasten off.
JOINING
Join two motifs with WS facing,
join yarn A in any 3ch-sp, 1ch, 2dc
in same sp, 1dc in top of each tr
working through both motifs, to
last 3ch-sp, 2dc in same sp.
Fasten off.
Rep to join second to third motif
in the same way.
BORDER
With RS facing join yarn A to
first tr of right-hand corner of
short edge, 1ch (does not count
as a st), 1dc in same st, 15dc,
(1dc, 2ch, 1dc) in 3ch-sp (corner),
16dc, *1dc in next ch-sp, 1dc
in “seam”, 1dc in next ch-sp,
16dc**; rep from * to ** once,
(1dc, 2ch, 1dc) in next 3ch-sp,
3dc, 3ch, miss 3tr, 4dc, 3ch, miss
3tr, 3dc, (1dc, 2ch, 1dc) in next
3ch-sp, 16dc; rep from * to **
twice, (1dc, 2ch, 1dc) in last chsp, sl st in first dc.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
FINISHING
Sew buttons to correspond with
buttonholes. To block,
END
turn to WS and
dampen. Leave to dry.
CAFETIÈRE
COASTER
Work in yarns B, C, D
and E, or colours of your choice.
START
Work as for Cover Motif to end
of Rnd 2 using yarns B and C.
Rnd 3: Join yarn E to any ch-sp,
3ch, 1pc, 3ch, 1pc, 3ch in same
sp, *(1pc, 3ch) in next ch-sp, (1pc,
3ch) twice in next ch-sp; rep from
* to last rep, (1pc, 3ch) in last chsp, sl st in top of 3ch – 18 pc.
Fasten off yarn E, join in yarn D to
any ch-sp.
Rnd 4: 3ch, 1pc in same sp, 3ch,
1pc, 3ch in next ch-sp, *(1pc, 3ch)
twice in next ch-sp, [1pc, 3ch, in
next ch-sp] twice; rep from * to
end, sl st in top of 3ch – 27pc.
Rnd 5: (Picot edging) Sl st to next
ch-sp, 1ch (does not count as st),
(1dc, 3ch, sl st in base of dc, 1dc)
in same sp, 1dc in top of next
pc, *(1dc, 3ch, sl st in base of dc,
1dc) in next ch-sp, 1dc in top of
next pc; rep from * to end, sl st
in 1ch to close.
Weave in all ends. To
END
block, turn to WS and
dampen. Leave to dry.
COASTER
Work as for Cafetière
Coaster to end of Rnd 3.
Picot edging is worked in same
way. To block, turn to
END
WS and dampen.
Leave to dry.
START
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 87
Yarn Market
KATH WEBBER, COMMISSIONING EDITOR, WRITES:
“I’m a big fan of independent yarn shops – whether it’s the
local yarn store in town where you can pop in for a browse
and some help with your latest project, or an online shop
with gorgeously curated wools and accessories, the care and
personal service you get is second-to-none. Our favourite
independent yarn shops – some local, some online - are all
packed with a great choice of yarns, hooks and extras
perfect for your next project. Yarn shops are also great places
to find fellow crocheters, whether it’s a ‘Crochet and Chatter’
social group or workshops from local designers, all brought
to you by staff with a real passion for yarn and love for our
craft. Check out these stores for some great yarn and service!”
Quilting fabric, sewing machines,
wool and haberdashery
1 Biddicks Court, Saint Austell,
Cornwall PL25 5EW Tel: 01726 75385
Email: sewandfabric@yahoo.co.uk
www.woolcabin.co.uk
‘An old fashioned wool shop
with a modern twist’
Tel: 01255 428352
Stockists of James C Brett, Stylecraft, Woolcraft
and Adriafil, Knitting needles, crochet hooks etc.
DMC embroidery silks
Haberdashery inc elastic, zips, buttons
Knitting Bags and gifts from Vanessa Bee Designs
sandra_woolcabin@hotmail.com
Come join our workshops and classes.
Stockists: King Cole, Stylecraft, Scheepjes, Grundl,
Erika Knight Yarns and more!
Come in for our weekly “Sit n Stitch” sessions!
11 Sandown Road Lake, Isle of Wight, PO36 9JL
01983 716890
www.facebook.com/knitknacksiow
Skeins & Bobbins
Curtains and soft furnishings
made to order.
Postal delivery service: 28 High Street,
Clacton-On-Sea, Essex, CO15 1UQ.
17 Knaresborough Road, Harrogate H62 7SR
Tel: 01423 885565 Email: yarnetc@mail.com
M O T H E R G O O S E
120 High Street, Kinross KY13 8DA
CRAFT SHOP
01577 208107
Independent craft shop in the
heart of the Cotswolds. King
Cole, WYS, Adriafil and more.
Knitting, Crochet, Felting,
Papercraft Tools, Kits and
Supplies.
Knitting classes for
all ages
Regular knitting
workshops
Crochet and other craft
classes also available
Skeins & Bobbins
Email:
skeinsandbobbins@outlook.com
Stockists of Sirdar, Stylecraft,
King Cole, Wendy, Rico and
James C. Brett.
A yarn lovers’ paradise in the
heart of Harrogate.
Bournemouth Crochet Retreat
11th - 13th January 2019
£280 fully inclusive dbb,
workshops & yarn
Contact Elizabeth Borg
Stockists of Jamieson & Smith, Schjeepies,
Homespun Wonders, Rico, Stylecraft,
West Yorkshire Spinners, Sirdar,
King Cole, Addi Needles and much more.
9a Milton Street, Saltburn By The Sea,
Cleveland TS12 1DH | 01287 623154
rippingyarns.co
10A Market Street, Nailsworth, Stroud, Gloucestershire, GL6 0BX
www.mothergooseonline.co.uk Tel: 01453 298725
Find us on Facebook at mothergooseonline
W 10%
A ITH O
DV T FF
ER HIS
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Heavenly Arts
& Craft Café
Tel 07771 99 28 95
Wools crafts & haberdashery
Great value, friendly service!
NEW Wednesday
WINTER workshops
OPEN HOURS
Loom knitting November/December
Mon Wed Thurs Fri Sat 9.30am to 3pm
Learn to CLOSED
knit January/February
TUES
See Crochet
facebooklessons
for more
details or call
Wednesday
askin!
Open Mon Tues
Weds
Sat10am—4pm
Claire
for Fri
details
New
late opening!
Thurs 1pm—6pm
Knitting
lessons Thursdays
ask
43 Melbourne Street
Stalybridge
Sandra
for details0161 465 6820
0161 465 6820
sewitall.sandra@outlook.com
43 Melbourne Street, Stalybridge SK15 2JJ
rippingyarnssaltburn
We Stock: Blue Sky
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and many others!
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Phone: 020 8940 0999
www.tribeyarns.com
• Wide range of kniing yarns, accessories, haberdashery
and paterns • Kniing and Crochet Workshops
• Helpful and friendly staff
We have had a change around in the shop to make more room for
browsing the all paterns we stock. Now stocking Rico and Wendy.
For more informaion please contact us on: 0208 6433211 or Angela@whichcratwools.co.uk
7 Staion Way, Cheam Village, Surrey SM3 8SD
www.whichcratwools.co.uk
➻
HOW TO CROCHET
Howto
Crochet
The May Bloom Wrap
by Carmen Heffernan
(issue 101) uses a
beautiful linen-blend
yarn for stunning
drape and texture.
I have always believed
that anyone can learn to
crochet, so long as you
follow one simple rule:
don’t try to run before you
can chain! The chain is the
most simple of stitches
and therefore ideal for
practising the all-important hold, which helps create
the perfect tension for forming all the following
stitches. When my mother taught me to crochet,
she followed her grandmother’s lead and helped
me to hook metre upon metre of chain before I
was shown any further stitches. It was a fantastic
foundation for learning the more difficult
techniques. Once your chains are looking even
and feel comfortable to create, then progressing
on to the stitches becomes much easier.
If at any point you feel as if you have lost your
hold, simply go back to those comforting lengths
of chain until your confidence returns. My biggest
tip is to remember that this wonderful craft is well
known for being relaxing and fun, so find a comfy
chair, some free time and just enjoy it!
Happy crocheting…
TEACH
YOURSELF
How to hold the work,
chains, double
& treble crochet,
slip stitch
TURN THE PAGE FOR ALL
YOU NEED TO GET STARTED
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 89
GETTING STARTED
THE BASICS
To crochet smoothly and efficiently, you must hold the hook
and yarn in a relaxed, comfortable and consistent fashion. This
will also ensure that your tension is even and accurate. There
are two main ways of holding the hook and two main ways
to tension the yarn. You can choose whichever combination
feels more natural for you, or a variation on these.
SLIPKNOT
CHAIN
A slipknot creates the first
loop on the hook.
Most crochet projects begin
with a length of chain. This is
the perfect stitch to practise
your hold and tension with.
HOLDING THE HOOK
KNIFE GRIP
PENCIL GRIP
Hold the hook in your
dominant hand as you
would a knife.
Hold the hook in your
dominant hand as you
would a pencil.
1 Make a loop in the yarn
around 10–20cm/4–8in from
the end. Insert hook through
loop, catch the back strand
of yarn and pull it through to
the front.
HOLDING THE YARN
FOREFINGER
METHOD
MIDDLE-FINGER
METHOD
Wrap the ball end of the yarn
around the little finger of
your opposite hand, under
the next two fingers and over
the forefinger. Hold the work
steady with your middle
finger and thumb, then
raise your forefinger when
working to create tension.
Wrap the ball end of the
yarn around the little finger
of your opposite hand and
over the other fingers. Hold
the work steady with your
forefinger and thumb, then
raise your middle finger
while you are crocheting to
create tension.
To croch e t le ft-h and ed,
simply do the opp osit e to
.
the righ t-h and ed hol ds
Hold a mirror up to any
to
p ic ture in this gu ide
see how to wor k.
90 Inside Crochet
It doesn’t ma t te r
if your
sti tch es te nd tow
ar ds
be in g sli gh tly tig
ht or
ev en a lit tle loose;
you ar e
ai mi ng for an ev
en te nsion
th roughout to ac
hi ev e a
pr of ession al fin ish
.
1 Holding just the hook with
point up in your dominant
hand, and the yarn in the
other, grip the slipknot
with the yarn holding hand.
Work a yarn round hook
(yrh or yoh) by passing the
hook in front of the yarn,
under and around it.
2 Pull the ends of the yarn to
secure the knot around the
hook, but not too tightly or
it will be hard to pull the first
loop of chain through.
2 Roll the hook round in
your fingers towards you
to catch the yarn and pull
through loop on hook.
One chain made.
The action of working
stitches causes a
constan t rolling of the
hook in your fingers;
hold the hook pointin g
up when performing
the yrh, then roll it
round towards you
to point down when
pulling through the
loops so that you
don’t catch the hook
in the stitches.
3 Ensuring the stitches
are even – not too loose
or tight – repeat to make
a length of chain.
➻
HOW TO CROCHET
THE MAIN STITCHES
SLIP STITCH
(sl st)
A slip stitch is usually used to
join one stitch to another, or to
join a stitch to another point.
It is generally made by picking
up two strands of a stitch but
when used all over, you usually
only pick up the back loop.
This adorable
Cupcake Ella
amigurumi by Lydia
Tresselt (issue 100)
uses simple dc
stitches for a
sweet finish!
Double crochet stitches
are perfect for m aking
am igurum i, w hile treble
crochets are used to
create the classic granny
square design
DOUBLE CROCHET (dc)
The smallest stitch, creating a dense fabric perfect for amigurumi.
1 Insert hook into st or chain
required. Yarn over hook, as
when you make a chain. Pull
a loop through all stitches/
loops/work on hook to finish
slip stitch.
1 Insert hook into
chain or stitch, front to
back. Yarn over hook
and draw through
stitch to front, leaving
you with two loops
on the hook. Yarn
round hook.
2 Draw through both
loops to finish the
stitch. Double
crochet completed.
COUNTING
A CHAIN
The right side of your chain is
the one that looks like a little
plait of “v” shapes. Each “v” is
a stitch and must be counted.
When you are working the
chain, you do not count the
slipknot, but begin to count
your chain when you pull
through the first loop. To count
the chain afterwards you
count the slipknot as the first
stitch, but not the loop on the
hook, or “working” loop.
HALF TREBLE CROCHET (htr)
Slightly taller than a double crochet stitch, with a softer drape to the resulting fabric.
1 Yarn over hook, insert
hook into st from front
to back and draw loop
through stitch only.
This gives you three
loops on the hook.
Yarn round hook.
2 Draw yarn through
three remaining loops
on the hook together
to complete half treble.
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 91
Top crochet websites
TREBLE CROCHET
(tr)
The tallest of the basic
stitches, great for using within
more complex patterns.
FASTEN OFF
Pull up final loop of last stitch to make it bigger
and cut the yarn, leaving enough of an end to
weave in. Pull end through loop, and pull up
tightly to secure.
www.thepetalshed.uk
➻ Hattie Risdale’s beautiful site is a riot
of gorgeous colour combinations, floral
mandalas and on-trend homewares.
Uplifting, inspiring and fun!
1 Yarn round hook, insert hook
into stitch from front to back
and draw loop through stitch
only. This gives you three loops
on the hook. Yarn round hook.
COUNTING STITCHES
Count the post or “stem” of each stitch from the
side of your work. Each post counts as one stitch.
Double crochet
www.lookatwhatimade.net
➻ Inside Crochet columnist Dedri Uys sets
out to inspire with her website of tutorials,
free patterns and CAL information.
2 Pull loop through two loops.
Two loops on hook. Yarn
round hook.
Treble crochet
www.haakmaarraak.nl
➻ Scheepjes blogger Kirsten Ballering’s
website offers lots of bright homewares
inspiration with plenty of free patterns.
www.lovecrochet.com
➻ Love Crochet isn’t just a great value shop
for yarn, hooks and patterns, it also has a
thriving Community section where you can
share projects and a blog full of tutorials.
www.ravelry.com
➻ A crochet and knitting community site
with almost seven million members, Ravelry
is your one-stop site for indie patterns, yarn
information, forums and project galleries.
92 Inside Crochet
3 Pull loop through the
remaining two loops to
complete treble, repeat to
end of row.
Try t o coun t your st it ches a t regu
lar
int erva ls, usua lly a t the end of
ever y,
or ever y othe r, row and esp ecia lly
a f t er an incr ea se or decr ea se row.
It is b est t o try t o ca t ch any mist
ake s
a s q uick ly a s p ossib le, a s this will
mak e them muc h ea sier t o rect i fy!
➻
HOW TO CROCHET
USING THE STITCHES
The Blossom & Blue
Skies Garland by
Hattie Risdale (issue
101) is largely made
of easy treble, double
and chain stitches.
WORKING
INTO A CHAIN
WORKING
STRAIGHT
When working into a chain, you need
to miss out the appropriate number
of chain stitches called for with your
particular stitch (see the information
on turning chains, to the right). Now
insert the hook from front to back into
the next chain, under the top loop of
the chain. Yarn over and draw a loop
through to the front of the chain.
When working straight, you need to
turn your work at the end of a row
and then work a turning chain (t-ch)
to the height of your intended stitch
so that you can continue working
along the next row. This chain often
counts as the first stitch of the
row and each type of stitch uses a
different number of chain stitches
for the turning chain.
WORKING INTO
WHICH LOOP?
Crochet stitches are always worked
through both loops of the next stitch
(this looks like a “v” on top of the stitch),
unless the pattern tells you otherwise.
With htr and taller stitches, you now
miss out the first stitch of the row,
then work into every following stitch.
This is because the turning chain is
tall enough to count as the first stitch
itself, so is counted as the first stitch of
the row. This also means that you must
remember to work the last stitch of a
row into the top of the previous row’s
turning chain.
Som etim es you are
asked to w ork into a
space or chain space.
To do this, sim ply
insert your hook into
the hole underneath
the chain and com plete
the stitch norm ally
KEEPING
STRAIGHT EDGES
Sometimes a pattern will ask you to work
only through one loop of the stitch. To
work through the front loop only (flo),
insert your hook under the front loop of
the next stitch, then bring it out at the
centre of the stitch, then complete. To
work through the back loop only (blo),
insert your hook through the centre of
the stitch, then under the back loop to
the back, then complete the stitch.
Sometimes you are even asked to work
in between the stitches. In this case,
ignore the top loops of the stitch and
insert your hook between the posts of
adjoining stitches.
WORKING
INTO A SPACE
Sometimes you are asked to work
into a space or a chain space. To
do this simply insert your hook into
the hole underneath the chain, then
complete your stitch normally.
This is similar to working into a ring,
as shown on page 94.
Knowing which stitch to work into when
working straight can be a problem for
beginners, because the turning chain
has such a role to play. If you don’t know
which stitch to work into after making
your turning chain, simply unravel back
to the last stitch from previous row and
insert a thread or stitch marker into that
stitch. Make your desired turning chain
then miss out the stitch with the thread
in (except with dc stitches), as your
turning chain now counts as the first
stitch of the row. Once you have worked
across all stitches in the row, you must
remember to put a stitch into the top of
the previous row’s turning chain, as this
also counts as a stitch.
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 93
Beginner
books we
recommend
WORKING IN THE ROUND
When working in the round, instead of working backwards and forwards along the work,
turning at the end of each round, you simply work with the right side facing you at all times
and you do not turn. When working in the round, you generally begin one of three ways:
WORKING
AROUND A RING
WORKING INTO
A SHORT CHAIN
ADJUSTABLE
RING
This method of working in
the round creates a large
hole at the centre of your
work. Its size is dependent
on the length of chain used.
You can create a smaller
hole in the centre of your
work by working into a
chain as short as 2ch long.
This method is also referred
to as the magic loop or ring,
as it creates a round with
no hole at the centre. Here
it is demonstrated with
double crochet.
CROCHET WORKSHOP
Erika Knight
(Quadrille, £14.99)
Perfect for the beginner,
Erika guides the reader
through 20 beautiful
projects that quickly increase
knowledge and skill level.
Make a length of chain as
required, then insert your
hook into the first chain stitch
you made. Yarn round hook.
For double crochets, as in this
example, work 2ch. For htr
you would work 3ch and for
trebles, 4ch.
Make a loop in your yarn, at
least 15cm/6in from the tail
end. Insert hook through the
loop from front to back.
Insert hook into the top loop
of the first chain as shown.
Yarn round hook.
BEETLES, BUGS AND
BUTTERFLIES
Lydia Tresselt
(SewandSo, £16.99)
A lovely introduction to
amigurumi crochet, Lydia
takes the crocheter into the
tiny world of insects all with
meticulous instructions.
Work a slip stitch to join,
creating a ring, and then
work your turning chain
dependent on which stitch
you will be working into the
ring. Insert hook into the
centre of the ring and work
the first stitch into this ring.
Complete the first stitch in the
chain as shown (illustrations
show dc, but can be any stitch).
Work required number of
stitches into the centre of the
ring and join round with a slip
stitch. Do not turn, but continue
the next row around the last.
Now work the required amount
of stitches into the same chain.
The sheer amount of stitches
worked into one place will
cause them to fan out into a
round. Now join this round
with a slip stitch and continue
with the pattern.
ROUND AND ROUND
THE CROCHET HOOK
Emily Littlefair
(Tuva, £14.95)
Emily from The Loopy Stitch
shares a whole host of
colourful in-the-round
projects, starting with
simple, beginner level ideas.
94 Inside Crochet
Pull yarn though to front of
loop and complete the stitch
around the loop and the tail
end of yarn held double.
Work all the following stitches
into the ring in the same way,
over the two strands of yarn
in the loop. Once all stitches
have been worked, pull the
loose tail end of the yarn to
close the ring and join the
round with a slip stitch.
➻
HOW TO CROCHET
SHAPING, COLOURWORK & TENSION
Once you’ve learned simple shaping stitches, you can create almost any garment – and add
in different colours as you go with our simple technique. Make sure to check your tension first
though, or your finished piece could be completely the wrong size!
INCREASING
JOINING IN
A NEW COLOUR
TENSION/GAUGE
To join in a new colour (or a new ball
of the same colour), you can simply
fasten off the old yarn and then attach
the new colour with a slip stitch into the
top of the last stitch made. However,
for a neater join, you can also work the
colour change as follows:
To work an extra stitch, you simply
need to work into the same stitch more
than once. Work one stitch as normal.
Insert hook into same stitch you’ve just
worked and complete another stitch.
One stitch increased.
Work the last stitch in the colour you
are using first, up to the final step, so
that the stitch is unfinished. Pull the
new colour through the loops on your
hook, completing the stitch and joining
the new colour at the same time.
DECREASING
To decrease a stitch, you need to work
into two stitches without finishing
them, then work them together.
For a double crochet (above), insert hook
into next st, yarn over hook and draw a
loop through the stitch, but do not finish
the double crochet stitch as usual. Insert
hook into following st, yarn over hook and
draw a loop through the next st, so there
are three loops on the hook in total. Yarn
over hook and draw the loop through
all loops on hook, drawing two stitches
together. One stitch decreased.
For a treble crochet, work a treble into the
next stitch until the last step of the stitch,
two loops on hook. Do the same into the
following stitch, three loops on hook. Draw
through all three loops on hook to draw the
two trebles together. One stitch decreased.
Working a new colour over
double crochet
Working a new colour over
treble crochet
Once you have joined in the new yarn,
you can weave in the ends of both
yarns as you go, by holding them on
top of your stitches and working round
them as you work into the following
stitches. Do this for at least 5cm/2in
then cut the remaining ends.
A tension swatch is used to
ensure that you are working
at the tension called for in the
pattern. It is essential to check this,
otherwise your finished garment
is likely to be the wrong size!
Crochet a small square of just over
10 x 10cm/4 x 4in in the main yarn
and stitch used in the pattern, then
count and calculate the average
amount of stitches per cm.
Chain a few more stitches and
work more rows than the tension
in the pattern suggests you’ll
need for this size. Once you have
completed the swatch, use a
measuring tape or ruler, place
some pins at 0 and 10 and take
some average measurements
– count how many stitches and
rows to 10cm at different points
over the swatch.
If you find you have more stitches
per cm than indicated in the
pattern, then your tension is too
tight and you need to work more
loosely. The best way to do this
is to increase the size of hook
you’re using by a quarter or half
millimetre until the tension is as
close as you can get it. If there are
fewer stitches than required, then
you are crocheting too loosely,
and you need to decrease the size
of hook used in the same way.
TURN THE PAGE FOR CLUSTER STITCHES, TIPS AND A FULL GLOSSARY
OF CROCHET ABBREVIATIONS, UK VS US TERMS AND HOOK SIZES
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 95
CLUSTERS
Clusters are groups of stitches worked into the same stitch, but rather than an increase,
they still only equate to one stitch overall. Clusters can be confusing to work, so here
are the details of some of the main cluster stitches.
BOBBLE
PUFFS
A bobble is a number of stitches
(generally trebles), half finished and
all worked into the same stitch.
Work each stitch until the last step,
omitting this final step. Once the desired
number of half finished trebles have
been completed, you will have one
more loop on your hook than you have
half finished trebles. Yarn round hook,
then pull through all loops on hook to
complete the bobble.
A puff is a number of elongated half
trebles worked into the same stitch
and then finished together, as follows:
POPCORNS
Popcorns are a number of complete
stitches worked into one stitch.
1 Yarn round hook, insert into next stitch,
pull a loop through the stitch and then
pull it up to the height of all other stitches
in the row.
TIPS ANDTRICKS
abcdgg
Working from
a pattern
➻ Once you have “cracked
the code” and understand
the stitches’ abbreviations,
a pattern becomes much
easier to read. Don’t read a
pattern fully before starting
it as it may make it seem
more complex, but do
take a brief look through
to check if there any
abbreviations you are
unfamiliar with. Consult
the abbreviations tables
opposite before beginning.
➻ Purchase yarn with the
same dye lot number on
the balls to avoid unwanted
colour changes and choose
light coloured yarn for
your first projects to make
sure that you can see your
stitches easily – this helps
prevent mistakes occurring.
1 Once the sts are completed, remove your
hook and insert back into the first stitch
worked, then through the final loop.
2 Yarn round hook and pull through
everything on the hook. Popcorn complete.
2 Yarn round hook, insert into same
stitch, pull a loop through stitch and pull
it up to the height of all other stitches
in the row. Repeat this step the desired
number of times.
3 Yarn round hook and pull through all
loops on hook. Puff made.
Choose light-coloured yarn for your first few projects
to m ake sure that you can see all of your stitches
easily – this helps prevent mistakes occurring
96 Inside Crochet
➻ If you are attempting
a project with multiple
size options, circle or
highlight the instructions
for the size you are making
throughout the pattern
to avoid confusion. The
smallest size is listed first,
then all following ones inside
brackets, increasing in size
and separated by commas.
➻ Where a pattern has an
accompanying chart, use this
for reference, as it shows the
formation of the stitches as
they will be worked and can
help with tricky instructions.
➻ Finally, and most
importantly, for projects
that need to have a good fit,
always check your tension by
swatching before you begin.
➻
HOW TO CROCHET
A note
on... Hook sizes
ABBREVIATIONS
Note: Inside Crochet uses UK terms throughout
alt · alternate
bef · before
beg · begin(s); beginning
bet · between
blo · back loop only
ch(s) · chain(s)
ch-sp(s) · chain space(s)
cl(s) · cluster(s)
cm · centimetre(s)
cont · continue(s);
continuing
dc · double crochet
dc2tog · work two dc
together
dec(s) · decrease(s);
decreasing; decreased
dtr · double treble crochet
dtr2tog · work two dtr
together
ea · each
ech · extended chain
edc · extended double
crochet
prev · previous
rem · remain(s); remaining
rep(s) · repeat(s)
rev dc · reverse double
crochet
rnd(s) · round(s)
RS · right side
rtrf · raised treble front
rtrb · raised treble back
sl · slip
sl st · slip stitch
sp(s) · space(es)
st(s) · stitch(es)
t-ch(s) · turning chain(s)
tog · together
tr · treble crochet
trtr · triple treble
tr2tog · work two trebles
together
WS · wrong side
yd(s) · yard(s)
yoh · yarn over hook
yrh · yarn round hook
etr · extended treble
est · established
fdc · foundation double
crochet
flo · front loop only
foll · follows; following
ftr · foundation treble
crochet
g · gram(s)
gp(s) · group(s)
hk · hook
htr · half treble crochet
htr2tog · work two htr
together
inc(s) · increase(s);
increasing; increased
in · inch(es)
lp(s) · loop(s)
m · stitch marker
mm · millimetre(s)
nc · not closed
patt · pattern
pm · place marker
BREAKING THE LANGUAGE BARRIER
UK and US terms have differing meanings which can create difficulty for the
crocheter. Here’s a handy reference guide to overcome any misunderstandings.
UK TERMS
US TERMS
Chain
Miss
Slip stitch
Double crochet
Half treble crochet
Treble crochet
Double treble crochet
Triple treble crochet
Raised treble back/front
Chain
Skip
Slip stitch
Single crochet
Half double crochet
Double crochet
Treble crochet
Double treble crochet
Back/front post dc
➻ Hook sizes and their designations vary
from country to country. When following
the recommendations in a pattern or on
a ball band, make sure to check which
size convention is being used.
CROCHET HOOK SIZES
Metric (mm)
UK
US
0.60
14
0.75
12
1
11
1.25
7
1.50
6
1.75
2
5
14
2.25
2.5
B/1
12
2.75
3
C/2
10
3.25
3.5
D/3
9
3.75
E/4
F/5
4
8
G/6
4.5
7
7
5
6
H/8
5.5
5
I/9
6
4
J/10
6.5
3
K-/101/2
7
2
8
0
L/11
9
00
M /13
10
000
N/15
11.5
O
12
P
15
Q
20
S
tr2tog
3-tr cl
tr3tog
popcorn
puff
linked tr
CHARTS KEY
adjustable ring
fl only
sl st
dc
ch
fdc
bl only
htr
tr
rtrf
dtr
rtrb
trtr
dc2tog
www.insidecrochet.co.uk 97
➻
FINAL THOUGHT
“I make collections of colours and
leave
them in piles in my wool (spare) room
for a few days, sometimes weeks,
until the right combination appears .”
Amanda Perkins
GLORIOUS COLOUR
We catch up with designer Amanda about babies,
blankets and her fabulous sense of colour…
Above: Amanda was
inspired to create her book
after watching her grandson
Bert trying to pick up some
shapes off a blanket design.
Below: Amanda conjures
up the most beautiful and
magical colour combos.
Tell us about yourself… I live in a tiny flat,
perched high on a hill, in a tiny town on the
Exm oor coast. I share m y life with m y husband Phil
and our two “40 -m iles-per-hour couch potato”
lurchers. We are lucky to live in the flat below our
daughter, son-in-law and Bert our grandson.
How did you get into crochet design?
I used to run a hand-dyed yarn com pany called The
Natural Dye Studio, and started designing crochet
scarves and shawls as pattern support for m y yarn.
Could you tell us about your new book?
My new book is called Bert’s Crochet Baby
Blankets, it contains eight m odern, vibrant crochet
blankets for babies, toddlers and your own inner
child. The blanket designs focus on colour and
shape rather than texture and technique. The book
contains illustrated step-by-step charts, plus
inform ation on techniques used, colour, sewing in
ends and m uch m ore. The blanket designs are
m ade using the basic stitches to create sim ple,
crochet motifs, that fit together like jigsaw pieces.
How would you describe your design style?
Artistic, vibrant and m odern, hopefully fun and
inspirational too.
How do you go about choosing colour
schemes for your designs? I like to use as
many different colours in the same place at the
sam e tim e as I can. I m ake collections of colours
and leave them in piles in m y wool (spare) room for
a few days, som etim es weeks, until the right
com bination appears.
You use a lot of different shades together
and yet make them work beautifully – how
do you put together a colour palette for a
design that works so well? My colour choices
are instinctive, I’m very obsessive about the colours
being right and quite often end up frogging m otifs
of wrong colours that don’t work if needed. I
understand that a lot of crocheters struggle
choosing colour, so I try to add swatches of the
colour palette to m y patterns – crocheters m ight
not be able to m atch the colour exactly but should
be able to choose som ething sim ilar. I hope that m y
98 Inside Crochet
blanket designs are personal to their creators, and
m aybe contain yarns and colours from their stash,
left over from other projects to give the blankets a
unique identity.
Do you have any favourite colour schemes
or combinations? I tend to use colour palettes
of a sim ilar depth of shade, for exam ple all the
blankets in this book use bright vibrant colours.
I also like a m uted tonal palette sim ilar to the
natural dye palette that I dyed for m y business.
What’s a typical day like for you? Most days
I wake up about 7.30 am , play com puter gam es in
bed on m y iPhone for an hour, get up, turn on m y
laptop by 9am. Then I work on my computer writing
books, designing blankets, social networking,
answering emails. I try to turn my laptop off by 1pm,
then I crochet until 5pm when I walk the dogs and
post orders, after which I allow myself an hour off to
play gam es on m y PS4, then I crochet till I go to
bed. On weekends and the days I babysit Bert I
replace the com puter part of m y day with taking
Bert to playgroup and long walks running the dogs
on the beach or up on the moors. But I always fit at
least four or five hours of crochet in every day.
What are your favourite yarns or fibres to
work with? Wool, silk and alpaca.
What are your plans for the future?
I’m working on a big 2019 motif project including
crochet-alongs, a club and ending in a m otif book
early next year. In the autum n I will be publishing
Moorland Crochet Blankets, inspired by the
landscape and place I live in. Finally I’m going to
start thinking about a second baby book, for Bert’s
baby sibling due to be born at the end of March
2019, which will probably mean more Bert sitting!
Visit Amanda’s website
at www.amandasperkins
crochetblankets.com.
Bert’s Crochet Baby
Blankets is out now – turn
to page 12 for further
details and our review.
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