KNITS FABRIC DESIGN
AND ANALYSIS
Prepared by: R. RAMESH – TTS
November 2019,
Addis Ababa,
Ethiopia
Acknowledgement
As in the making of any formalized document several contributors are involved, this
manual would not have been possible without the invaluable contributions of ETIDI
experts and observations & feedback of ETIDI’ respective directorate directors.
We would like to express special thanks to the Honorable Mr. Sileshi Lemma, ETIDI
Director General, and respected Eanawgaw Nigussie Director, weaving and knitting
Directorate. Some experts necessitate special mention due to their untiring support
especially Mr.___________and Mr.____________. Last but not the least, we wish
to thank all the management and technical personnel who extended backing for the
successful completion of the manual.
TTS Team
Contents
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
1 of 141
1 Introduction
Textile Designing is the process of creating designs for Knits Garment industry. This Manual is
useful for designing various fabrics used in the industry. A basic fabric structure like Jersey, Jersey
derivatives, Rib derivatives, Auto stripers, Mini Jacquard & Full Jacquard Knitting is explained in
Details. It explains various Cam and Needle selection mechanisms and its limitations for making
variety of Knits fabrics. Also, it helps for the freshers to know about the basic terms associated
with Knits fabric manufacturing. Construction of fabric designs are explained with fabric
parameters used in the industry.
2 Objective of the manual
The objective is to know about various options in Cam and needle selection mechanisms used for
making variety of Knits fabrics.
3. Circular Knitting Machines and Technology.
For producing Knits fabrics, one should have thorough knowledge about Yarn unravelling and
drafting the Needle and cam set outs of Knitting machine and its capacity to produce the required
fabric. Knitting Machines can be classified based on the Loop formation technology and Needle
selection mechanism.
Knitting Machines can be classified based on a number of parameters, as follows:
Diameter
Gauge
No. of. feeders.
Loop formation technology.
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
Page
1
2 of 141
On the basis of this Weft Knitting Machines can be classified as:
(1) Circular Weft Knitting Machine.
(2) Flat Knitting Machine.
Knitting done with the help of Single set cams in a Carriage Moving In traverse direction. They
are mainly used for Collar, Cuff, waist-band. Less productive and limited in no. of. colors, mini
motifs, mini jacquards and full jacquards with unlimited course wise repeat size. Limitations: 4 to
6 color feeders.
Comparison between Circular weft Knitting and Flat weft Knitting Machine.
CIRCULAR KNITTING
FLAT KNITTING
Yarn feeding by positive drive.
Yarn feed no drive-by dragging from cones.
Cylinder & Dial bed with needles, rotated by
drive mechanism.
Front &Back Bed are fixed. Only needles
moved up & down by carriage-cam drive
mechanism.
Cam boxes are fixed.
Cam box on carriage is movable between the
working width of the needle bed.
Fabric Stitch length adjusted mechanically
with yarn feed drive, individual Cam box,
centralized stitch adjustment.
Fabric Stitch length adjusted digitally on
Microprocessor Programmed control.
Fabric courses repeat is limited with No. of.
Feeders on a machine.
Fabric courses repeat is un-limited as the
Yarn carrier traverse movement is digitally
programmable on a machine.
Yarn Carriers are fixed on a ring.
Yarn carriers are movable with Cam &
Carriage.
Fabric width limited on a machine, based on
Total needles on cylinder.
Fabric working width can be changed as per
requirement, within the working area of
needles on needle bed, as the Needles
required to work is also digitally
Programmed.
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
No. of. Yarn Feeding Colors are between 2 to
10.12… etc., and maximum to the number of
Yarn carriers.
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
3 of 141
No. of. Yarn Feeding Colors are between 1 to
4 equals to the number of Yarn carriers.
(1.A) Jersey Machines.
Knitting Loop formation is done with Needles, Sinkers.
Basic Single jersey Fabric, every Course have one type of Yarn knitted with Needles and Sinkers.
Fabric Structure and Stripe repeat size is limited with the number of Feeders available on the
Knitting Machine. There are 3 to 4 feeders per inch(diameter) machine available in the Market.
Dobby looms- shedding done by dobby mechanism. Design repeat size increases along with
productivity, but it is complicated and costlier that cam looms and hand looms. Max diameter
available is 60 inches.
The Single jersey Fabric is used as inner wear, outer wear, swim wear, shoe in lay and lining cloths.
(1.B) Fleece Knitting Machines.
He technical face have ground thread needle loop like jersey fabric and the technical back with
laid in thread with courser Yarn count as float stitch.
Every Course of a Three Thread fleece Fabric, have a set of three yarns Knitted as ground, binding
and laid in yarn.
Usually the laid in yarn is a courser yarn compared to the Ground and binding Yarn.
This Fleece structure has got the stripe repeat based only on the number of Ground thread Yarn
feeders. The number of colors also limited to the number of Ground thread Yarn feeders.
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
4 of 141
These fabrics are used as winter wear Jackets.
(1.C) Terry Machines.
Loop formation is formed between a needle and a Sinker with two throats, one for holding the
ground thread and the another for plaited yarn.
Every course has got two type of yarn. One as the Ground thread and the another for the
plaited loops.
Option 1. Both the Ground and the Plaited Yarn are of 100% Cotton.
Option 2. The Ground yarn is Cotton and the Plaited Yarn is Polyester.
Here mostly the Fabric GSM is varied by adjusting the Loop length of the Ground thread. Keeping
the loop length of the plaited Yarn unchanged, if the loop length of the ground thread is increased,
Fabric GSM gets reduced and vice versa. If the plaited yarn loop is increased, Fabric GSM is
increased. Mostly the plaited yarn loop is increased, whenever the plaited loop of the fabric is
determined for shearing process after Knitting from this Terry Machine.
Beyond certain range of the GSM adjustment possibility on the knitting machine with Q.A.P drive
and the individual stitch cams, if further lower or higher gsm is required , there is option for
changing the Sinker with different hook height, to get smaller or longer plaited loops for lower or
high pile shearing heights on the technical back of the terry Fabric.
(1.D) Single jersey Auto striper Machine.
In this Machine, the main advantage is the unlimited stripe repeat of the Courses with different
Colour Yarn between 4 to 6 colours.
This has production limits between 150 to 250 kgs per day with maximum speed limit of 25 rpm.
The disadvantage is there is no Positive storage feeder as this technology if of feeding the dyed
yarn as and when required after the colour changeover.
(1.E) Single jersey Mini Jacquard.
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
5 of 141
In this machine, there is possibility of producing Jersey derivatives, with needle selection repeat
of 36 stitches across the wales. In this machine there is no necessity of exchange cams during
pattern changeover. As the needles are selected by Jack selector mechanism, the Cam box is
designed in such a way that the needles selected by the Jack get moved across the Knit or tuck or
Miss stitch track of the Cam profile. Here also there is no positive storage feeder as the needle
selection is not consistent enough to receive the constant yarn feed from the positive storage feeder.
(1 F) Single jersey Full Jacquard.
Here the needle selection across the Knit or Tuck or Miss tracks of the Needle cam box is made
by Electromagnetic action of the Jacks. The design or pattern size is unlimited for the course wise
and the wales wise limit, is up to the maximum of total number of needles in the cylinder. Yarn
feeding is done through individual motor driven mechanism, as the Yarn stitch formation is
inconsistent based on the pattern for knit or tuck or miss stitch. The pattern is prepared on a graph
chart in computer and then transferred to the Knitting Machine through pen drive. The course wise
stitch assignment and colour yarn placement on the creel is assigned in the Designed software and
the Yarn is practically creeled as per the Pattern software.
(1 G) Rib Machine.
Here the loop formation is formed as two layers interconnected as cylinder loop and dial needle
loops with two set of needles.
Here the machine gauge is mostly limited up to 18 gauge. Still finer gauge is practically not viable
as the needle hook space during loop formation cycle between cylinder needle and dial needle is
very less and more prone to touching each other. Also, as the fabric density will be more because
of finer gauge than 18, there is practical constraint in the needle movement at the Loop formation
cycle. Here the cylinder needles and dial needles are position at offsetting as they cannot touch
each across the needle hook. Every single cam box, feeder form a Single course.
Based on the number of needle tracks and number of butt positions, there is various possibility of
Rib Fabric derivatives. Most common are double face, flat back rib, ottoman, mesh, birds eye and
waffle varieties, herring bone.
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
6 of 141
With the provision of Cam timings like delayed timing and synchronized timings, drop needle
structures and self- designs with different needle and Cam arrangement can be produced. Here
mostly the feeders are two per machine diametrical inch. For example for 24 inch diameter rib
machine 48 feeders are there.
(1 H) Interlock Knitting Machine.
Here two set of needles on both dial and cylinder are required to form Interlock fabric. Needles
are placed exactly opposite to each other. But they cannot touch each other as the Cam arrangement
make the needle selection as off set during loop formation.
Based on the number of needle tracks, different interlock structures can be produced. Drop needle
designs can also be produced. Mostly nowadays Interlock machines are in 24 and 28gg only with
3-3.2 feeders per inch of machine diameter.
(1 J) Auto striper Machines in Rib & Interlock options.
Similar to Jersey Auto striper, Rib and Interlock Auto stripers are limited with Yarn feeders with
2 feeder per inch and unlimited striped course repeat.
(1 K) Rib Mini Jacquard.
In this machine, there is possibility of producing Rib derivatives, with needle selection repeat of
36 stitches across the wales. In this machine there is no necessity of exchange cams during pattern
changeover. As the needles are selected by Jack selector mechanism, the Cam box is designed in
such a way that the needles selected by the Jack get moved across the Knit or tuck or Miss stitch
track of the Cam profile. Here also there is no positive storage feeder as the needle selection is not
consistent enough to receive the constant yarn feed from the positive storage feeder.
(1 L) Rib Full Jacquard.
Here the needle selection across the Knit or Tuck or Miss tracks of the Needle cam box is made
by Electromagnetic action of the Jacks in the Cylinder. The design or pattern size is unlimited for
the course wise and the wales wise limit, is up to the maximum of total number of needles in the
cylinder. Yarn feeding is done through individual motor driven mechanism, as the Yarn stitch
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
7 of 141
formation is inconsistent based on the pattern for knit or tuck or miss stitch. The pattern is prepared
on a graph chart in computer and then transferred to the Knitting Machine through pen drive. The
course wise stitch assignment and colour yarn placement on the creel is assigned in the Designed
software and the Yarn is practically creeled as per the Pattern software. More commonly 30-34inch
dia with 18-20gauge machines are in the market.
(1 M) Rib Transfer Jacquard.
In this machine also, the needle selection across the Knit or Tuck or Miss tracks of the Needle cam
box is made by Electromagnetic action of the Jacks in the Cylinder. The design or pattern size is
unlimited for the course wise and the wales wise limit, is up to the maximum of total number of
needles in the cylinder. Yarn feeding is done through individual motor driven mechanism, as the
Yarn stitch formation is inconsistent based on the pattern for knit or tuck or miss stitch. The pattern
is prepared on a graph chart in computer and then transferred to the Knitting Machine through pen
drive. The course wise stitch assignment and colour yarn placement on the creel is assigned in the
Designed software and the Yarn is practically creeled as per the Pattern software. More commonly
30-34inch dia with 18-20gauge machines are in the market.
The main difference is the cylinder needles are with loop Transfer design. And compared to the
normal Rib Jacquard the productivity is 1/3rd less, as1/3rd of the Yarn feeders are used for the
transfer stitch design. More commonly 30-34inch dia with 18-20gauge machines are in the market.
One should know the following fabric parameters associated with cloth analysis.
Fabric Density
The Knits fabric density is defined as grams per square meter.
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
8 of 141
Wales per inch (WPI)
This is defined as the number of wales in one inch of the fabric. To get the required
Wales density, Cylinder and dial bed of different gauge are used.
Knitting Machine Gauge
The gauge is defined as number of needles for one inch measured on the Circumferential surface
of Cylinder. For example, if you are using a Machine Gauge of 24, it means there are 24 needles
in one inch.
Generally Finer Yarn counts are used on Machine Gauge on 24 and above 24 gauge making finer
and Medium to Low gsm, where the Fabric hand feel is very soft fabric.
Machine Gauge lower than 20, will be used for Coarser Yarn counts for high GSM fabric with
more thickness.
Course per inch
This is defined as the number of Courses in one inch of the Knitted fabric. The density of Course
can be varied by changing the rate of Yarn feed and finally the loop length. If the yarn feed is high,
then long loop length and so Course per inch is less. This is so because as the Yarn delivered at
the greater speed, becomes slack and to balance this slackness, the length of the loop is increased
by adjusting the central stitch adjustment mechanism and the individual stitch adjusting knob on
the cam box .Similarly when the Yarn feeding delivery is less speed, the yarn becomes tight
between the storage feeder and the needles. To balance this the loop length is reduced by adjusting
the central stitch adjustment mechanism and the individual stitch adjusting knob on the cam box.
So, the course per inch becomes more.
Knits Design Fundamentals
2.1 Classification of Knitted Fabrics
The nature in which interlacement of Loops occur between One weft Yarn and another weft is
referred to as the Knitting of the fabric. Based on the different types of
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
Page
1
9 of 141
Knitting that are possible, Knits fabrics can be broadly classified into the following categories:
The Structures are classified as Plain Jersey Knits, Rib Knits and Interlock Knits. All these are
knitted on Basic Knitting Machines, only the restrictions being the number of Needle & Cam tracks
available on Knitting Machine and the Course repeat is restricted to Number of Feeders.
2.2 Classification of Knitted Structure
Knitted Structures are classified into the following categories:
(i)
Simple Knit Structures
Examples: Jersey, Rib, Interlock.
(ii)
Compound structures
Terry Knit fabrics, Two different Yarn feeding with Different Loop length on Same Yarn Carrier,
in a Single fabric (Ground Yarn, Pile Yarn) In case of simple structures, there is only one Type of
weft yarn. These Yarn interlace with one another parallelly. In case of compound structures, there
may be more than one series threads, of which one set forms the body or ground and the other
forms the figuring or ornamentation and, in some cases, sandwiched between the two layers.
Single Jersey Fabric.
For Knitting Single jersey Fabric, a set of Single knit cam, Single needle track and Sinker is
required.
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
PIQUE Knits.
Polo Pique Knits.
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
10 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Double Pique Knits
Double LOCASTE
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
11 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
12 of 141
Knit Denim
YARN FEEDING
B W B WB W B W
In this structure, as shown above loop notation, on the Yarn no.1,3,5,7, the Yarn count will be finer
than the Yarn feed on No.2,4,6,8.
So, the Yarn feed speed should be controlled separately. Usually the Loop yarn , courser Yarn
Count will between 10s to20s and the loop length will be between 1.2 mm to 1.6 mm per needle.
The Ground Yarn ie., technical face will be with Finer Yarn count between 24s to 30s with loop
length between 2.85 to 3.0 mm per needle.
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
13 of 141
Tuck Denim.
In this structure, as shown above loop notation, on the Yarn no.1,3,5,7, the Yarn count will be finer
than the Yarn feed on No.2,4,6,8.
So, the Yarn feed speed should be controlled separately. Usually the Loop yarn , courser Yarn
Count will between 10s to20s and the loop length will be between 1.2 mm to 1.6 mm per needle.
The Ground Yarn ie., technical face will be with Finer Yarn count between 24s to 30s with loop
length between 2.85 to 3.0 mm per needle.
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Jersey Derivative. Bubble design.
Technical Face
POPCORN KNIT.
Technical Back.
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
14 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Needle
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
15 of 141
123 4
In this above design the tuck stitches shown as five tucks hold by one needle on subsequent
courses. This is the maximum safer limit. More tuck stitch than this will lead to needle breakages.
HERRING BONE KNITS
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
NEEDLE TRACK 1
K
M
K
NEEDLE TRACK 2
M
K
K
NEEDLE TRACK 3
K
K
M
CAM BOX NO.
1
2
3
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
16 of 141
The above design can also be tried with tuck stitch instead of Miss stitch also. Usually alternate
Yarn feeding with dark and contrast colours will give the prominent effect of the Herring bone
design. The more the needle set out repeat, the wider the herringbone design effect and vice
versa.
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
HONEYCOMB STRIPES
Technical Face
Technical Back
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
17 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
18 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
19 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Jersey Derivative Structure I
Technical Face
Technical Back
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
20 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Jersey Derivative structure II.
TECHNICAL FACE
TECHNICAL BACK
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
21 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
22 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
SINGLE JERSY DERIVATIVE III
TECHNICAL FACE
TECHNICAL BACK
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
23 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
1
TWO THREAD FLEECE STRIPES.
Needle track 1
Needle track 2
Needle track 3
Needle track 4
Feeder No.
Colour
8
K
K
K
K
T
M
M
M
TECHNICAL BACK
M
M
T
M
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
Fabric Design and Analysis
TECHNICAL FACE
Doc No.:
K
K
K
K
1,11,21 2,,6,10,14,…86 4,8,12,16,20,….88 23,25,27,29,…...87
Black
White
White
Blue
Page
24 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
HERRING BONE-FLEECE STRUCTURE.
Technical Face
Technical Back
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
25 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Jersey Derivative-Honeycomb.
Technical Face
Technical Back.
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
26 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Jersey Derivative.
Technical Face
Technical Back.
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
27 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
JERSEY DERIVATIVE.
TECHNICAL FACE
TECHNICAL BACK
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
28 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
29 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Single Jersey Derivative
Technical Face
Technical Back
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
30 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Two thread Fleece with Lycra.
Technical Face
Technical Back
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
31 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
PIQUE STRIPES
Technical Face
Technical Back
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
32 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Special Pique.
Technical Face
Technical Back
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
33 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
PIN STRIPE &DESIGN.
Technical Face
Technical Back
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
34 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
35 of 141
SINGLE JERSEY-MINI JACQUARD
FEEDER NO.S
TECHNICAL FACE
72
71
70
69
68
67
66
65
64
63
62
61
60
59
58
57
56 48 40 32
55 47 39 31
54 46 38 30
53 45 37 29
52 44 36 28
51 43 35 27
50 42 34 26
49 41 33 25
NEEDLE -JACK
24
23
22
21
20
19
18
17
16
15
14
13
12
11
10
9
TECHNICAL BACK
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
K
K
T
K
K
K
K
M
1
Y-C=YARN COLOUR
N=NAVY
W=WHITE
K
K
M
K
K
K
M
K
2
K
K
M
K
K
K
M
K
3
K
K
K
M
K
K
T
K
4
K
K
M
K
K
K
M
K
5
K
K
M
K
K
K
M
K
6
K
K
T
K
K
K
K
M
7
K
K
M
K
K
K
M
K
8
K
K
M
K
K
K
M
K
9
K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K N
K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K N
K M M T M M K M M T M M K M M T M M K M M T M M K M M W
M K K K K K M K K K K K M K K K K K M K K K K K M K K N
K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K N
K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K K N
T M M K M M T M M K M M T M M K M M T M M K M M T M M W
K K K M K K K K K M K K K K K M K K K K K M K K K K K N
10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 Y-C
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
SINGLE JERSEY MINI JACQUARD-DENIM
TECHNICAL FACE
TECHNICAL BACK
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
36 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Single Jersey Feeder Stripes
Technical Face
Technical Back
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
37 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Single jersey -white dot stripes.
Technical Face
Technical Back
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
38 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
SINGLE JERSEY-DERIVATIVE-DENIM.
TECHNICAL FACE
TECHNICAL BACK
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
39 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Single jersey Derivative-Popcorn.
Technical Face
Technical Back
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
40 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
POPCORN-Single Jersey Derivative.
Technical Face
Technical Back
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
41 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
PIN STRIPE-FLEECE.
TECHNICAL FACE
TECHNICAL BACK
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
42 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
43 of 141
Doc No.:
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
WKD/OM/EX/01
Document Title:
Page
Issue
No.:
Fabric Design and Analysis
44 of 141
1
SINGLE JERSEY MINI JACQUARD
FEEDER NO.S
TECHNICAL FACE
72 60 48 36
71 59 47 35
70 58 46 34
69 57 45 33
68 56 44 32
67 55 43 31
66 54 42 30
65 53 41 29
64 52 40 28
63 51 39 27
62 50 38 26
61 49 37 25
NEEDLE -JACK
24
23
22
21
20
19
18
17
16
15
14
13
12
11
10
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
M
1
Y-C=YARN COLOUR
N=NAVY
W=WHITE
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
2
TECHNICAL BACK
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
3
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
K
K
K
4
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
5
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
6
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
M
7
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
8
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
9
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
K
K
K
10
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
11
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
12
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
M
13
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
14
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
15
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
K
K
K
16
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
17
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
18
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
M
19
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
20
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
21
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
K
K
K
22
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
23
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
24
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
M
25
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
26
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
27
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
K
K
K
28
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
29
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
30
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
M
31
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
32
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
33
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
K
K
K
34
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
35
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
36
N
W
N
W
N
W
N
W
N
W
N
W
Y-C
Doc No.:
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
WKD/OM/EX/01
Document Title:
Issue
No.:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Page
45 of 141
1
SINGLE JERSEY MINI JACQUARD
FEEDER NO.s
TECHNICAL FACE
64
62
60
58
56
54
52
50
63 48 47 32
61 46 45 30
59 44 43 28
57 42 41 26
55 40 39 24
53 38 37 22
51 36 35 20
49 34 33 18
NEEDLE -JACK
31
29
27
25
23
21
19
17
16
14
12
10
8
6
4
2
15
13
11
9
7
5
3
1
TECHNICAL BACK
M
M
K
K
M
M
M
M
1
M
M
K
K
M
M
M
M
2
K
K
M
M
K
K
M
M
3
M
M
M
M
M
M
K
K
4
M
M
M
M
M
M
K
K
5
K
K
M
M
K
K
M
M
6
M
M
K
K
M
M
M
M
7
M
M
K
K
M
M
M
M
8
K
K
M
M
K
K
M
M
9
M
M
M
M
M
M
K
K
10
K
M K
M K
M M
M M
M K
M K
K M
K M
11 12
KNIT
M
M
K
K
M
M
M
M
13
M
M
K
K
M
M
M
M
14
K
K
M
M
K
K
M
M
15
T
M M
M M
M M
M M
M M
M M
K K
K K
16 17
TUCK
K
K
M
M
K
K
M
M
18
M
M
K
K
M
M
M
M
19
M
M
K
K
M
M
M
M
20
K
K
M
M
K
K
M
M
21
M
M M
M M
M M
M M
M M
M M
K K
K K
22 23
MISS
K
K
M
M
K
K
M
M
24
M
M
K
K
M
M
M
M
25
M
M
K
K
M
M
M
M
26
FEEDER NO. 1,3,5,7..GREEN COLOUR
Feeder No.2,4,6…Navy colour
Jack selector Opposite between Knit & Miss for Feeders 1,2 and vice versa
Wherever Knit For Feeder No.1, The same jack selction will be Miss for Feeder No.2 and like wise for the subsequent courses
K
K
M
M
K
K
M
M
27
M
M
M
M
M
M
K
K
28
M
M
M
M
M
M
K
K
29
K
K
M
M
K
K
M
M
30
M
M
K
K
M
M
M
M
31
M
M
K
K
M
M
M
M
32
K
K
M
M
K
K
M
M
33
M
M
M
M
M
M
K
K
34
M
M
M
M
M
M
K
K
35
K
K
M
M
K
K
M
M
36
Doc No.:
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
WKD/OM/EX/01
Document Title:
Issue
No.:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Page
46 of 141
1
SINGLE JERSEY MINI JACQUARD
FEEDER NO
TECHNICAL FACE
TECHNICAL BACK
71
70
69
68
67
66
65
64
63
62
47
46
45
44
43
42
41
40
39
38
23
22
21
20
19
18
17
16
15
14
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
D.O.
D.O.
D.O.
D.O.
D.O.
D.O.
D.O.
D.O.
D.O.
D.O.
61
60
59
58
57
56
55
54
53
52
51
50
37
36
35
34
33
32
31
30
29
28
27
26
13
12
11
10
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
K
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
K
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
K
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
K
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
K
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
K
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
D.O.
D.O.
D.O.
D.O.
D.O.
D.O.
D.O.
D.O.
D.O.
D.O.
D.O.
L
49 25 1 T M M K M M T M M K M M T M M K M M T M M K M M T M M K M M T M M K M M L
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 Y-C.
K KNIT
T TUCK
M MISS
FEEDER NO. 1,,13 LUREX- YARN
Feeder No.2 TO 12,14 TO 24 Dark Orange colour
NEEDLE -JACK
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
47 of 141
Doc No.:
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
WKD/OM/EX/01
Document Title:
Issue
No.:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Page
48 of 141
1
Single Jersey Mini Jacquard.
FEEDER NO.s
Technical Face
NEEDLE -JACK
72
71
70
69
68
67
66
65
64
63
62
61
60
59
58
57
56
55
54
53
52
51
50
49
Technical Back.
48
47
46
45
44
43
42
41
40
39
38
37
36
35
34
33
32
31
30
29
28
27
26
25
24
23
22
21
20
19
18
17
16
15
14
13
12
11
10
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
1
K
K
T
K
K
T
K
K
T
K
K
T
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
2
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
3
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
4
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
5
K
K
T
K
K
T
K
K
T
K
K
T
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
6
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
7
YARN COLOUR W=WHITE, R=RED
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
8
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
9
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
10
K
K K
K K
M K
K K
K K
M K
K K
K K
M K
K K
K K
M K
K K
K K
T M
K K
K K
T M
K K
K K
T M
K K
K K
T M
11 12
KNIT
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
13
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
14
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
T
K
K
T
K
K
T
K
K
T
15
T
K K
K K
K M
K K
K K
K M
K K
K K
K M
K K
K K
K M
K K
K K
M M
K K
K K
M M
K K
K K
M M
K K
K K
M M
16 17
TUCK
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
18
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
19
K
K
T
K
K
T
K
K
T
K
K
T
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
20
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
21
M
K K
K K
M M
K K
K K
M M
K K
K K
M M
K K
K K
M M
K K
K K
M K
K K
K K
M K
K K
K K
M K
K K
K K
M K
22 23
MISS
K
K
T
K
K
T
K
K
T
K
K
T
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
24
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
25
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
26
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
27
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
28
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
T
K
K
T
K
K
T
K
K
T
29
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
30
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
31
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
32
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
T
K
K
T
K
K
T
K
K
T
33
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
34
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
35
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
K
K
M
36
R
R
W
R
R
W
R
R
W
R
R
W
R
R
W
R
R
W
R
R
W
R
R
W
YC
Doc No.:
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
WKD/OM/EX/01
Document Title:
Page
Issue
No.:
Fabric Design and Analysis
49 of 141
1
Single Jersey Mini Jacquard.
FEEDER NO
Technical Face
64
48
63
47
62 61 46 45
60 59 44 43
58 57 42 41
56
40
55
39
54 53 38 37
52 51 36 35
50 49 34 33
NEEDLE -JACK
Technical Back.
30
28
26
22
20
18
32
31
29
27
25
24
23
21
19
17
14
12
10
6
4
2
16
15
13
11
9
8
7
5
3
1
K
K
M
M
M
K
K
K
M
K
1
K
K
M
K
M
K
K
M
K
M
2
K
K
M
M
M
K
K
K
M
K
3
K
K
M
M
M
K
K
M
M
M
4
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
M
M
M
5
K
K
M
K
M
K
K
M
K
M
6
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
M
M
M
7
K
K
M
M
M
K
K
M
M
M
8
K
K
M
M
M
K
K
K
M
K
9
K
K
M
K
M
K
K
M
K
M
10
K
K K
K K
M M
M M
M M
K K
K K
K M
M M
K M
11 12
KNIT
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
M
M
M
13
K
K
M
K
M
K
K
M
K
M
14
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
M
M
M
15
T
K K
K K
M M
M M
M M
K K
K K
M K
M M
M K
16 17
TUCK
K
K
M
K
M
K
K
M
K
M
18
K
K
M
M
M
K
K
K
M
K
19
K
K
M
M
M
K
K
M
M
M
20
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
M
M
M
21
M
K K
K K
M K
K M
M K
K K
K K
M M
K M
M M
22 23
MISS
FEEDER NO. 1,3,5,9,11,13 WHITE COLOUR YARN
Feeder No.2,4,6,7,7,10,12,14,15,16 Navy colour
Jack selector Opposite between Knit & Miss for Feeders 1,2 and vice versa
Wherever Knit For Feeder No.1, The same jack selction will be Miss for Feeder No.2 and like
wise for the subsequent courses
Doc No.:
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
WKD/OM/EX/01
Document Title:
Page
Issue
No.:
Fabric Design and Analysis
50 of 141
1
SINGLE JERSEY-MINI JACQUARD.
TECHNICAL FACE
FEEDER NO.S
72
71
70
69
68
67
66
65
64
63
62
61
60
59
58
57
56
55
NEEDLE -JACK
54
53
52
51
50
49
48
47
46
45
44
43
42
41
40
39
38
37
36
35
34
33
32
31
30
29
28
27
26
25
24
23
22
21
20
19
18
17
16
15
14
13
12
11
10
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
K K K K K K
K K K K K K
K K K K K K
K K K K K K
K K K K K K
M M K M M T
K K M K K K
K K M K K K
K K M K K K
K K K K K K
K K K K K K
K K K K K K
K K K K K K
K K K K K K
M M T M M K
K K K K K M
K K K K K M
K K K K K M
1 2 3 4 5 6
Y-C=YARN COLOUR
C=COTTON-GREIGE
P=POLYESTER-BLACK
TECHNICAL BACK
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
7
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
8
K
K
K
K
K
K
M
M
M
K
K
K
K
K
T
K
K
K
9
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
10
K
T
M
K K
K K
K K
K K
K K
M T
K K
K K
K K
K K
K K
K K
K K
K K
M K
K M
K M
K M
11 12
KNIT
TUCK
MISS
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
13
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
14
K
K
K
K
K
K
M
M
M
K
K
K
K
K
T
K
K
K
15
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
16
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
17
K
K
K
K
K
T
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
M
M
M
18
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
19
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
20
K
K
K
K
K
K
M
M
M
K
K
K
K
K
T
K
K
K
21
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
22
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
23
K
K
K
K
K
T
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
M
M
M
24
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
25
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
26
K
K
K
K
K
K
M
M
M
K
K
K
K
K
T
K
K
K
27
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
28
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
29
K
K
K
K
K
T
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
M
M
M
30
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
31
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
32
K
K
K
K
K
K
M
M
M
K
K
K
K
K
T
K
K
K
33
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
34
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
M
K
K
K
35
K
K
K
K
K
T
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
K
M
M
M
36
C
C
C
C
C
P
C
C
C
C
C
C
C
C
P
C
C
C
Y-C
Doc No.:
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
WKD/OM/EX/01
Document Title:
Page
Issue
No.:
Fabric Design and Analysis
51 of 141
1
SINGLE JERSEY -MINI JACQUARD -HERRING BONE
FEEDER NO.S
TECHNICAL FACE
NEEDLE -JACK
72
71
70
69
68
67
66
65
64
63
62
61
60
59
58
57
56
55
54
53
52
51
50
49
48
47
46
45
44
43
42
41
40
39
38
37
36
35
34
33
32
31
30
29
28
27
26
25
24
23
22
21
20
19
18
17
16
15
14
13
12
11
10
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
K K K K K
M M T M M
K K K K K
M M M T M
K K K K K
T M M M T
K K K K K
M T M M M
K K K K K
M M T M M
K K K K K
M M M T M
K K K K K
T M M M T
K K K K K
M T M M M
K K K K K
M M T M M
K K K K K
M T M M M
K K K K K
T M M M T
K K K K K
M M M T M
K K K K K
M M T M M
K K K K K
M T M M M
K K K K K
T M M M T
K K K K K
M M M T M
K K K K K
M M T M M
K K K K K
M T M M M
1 2 3 4 5
Y-C=YARN COLOUR
N=NAVY
W=WHITE
TECHNICAL BACK
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
6
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
7
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
8
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
9
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
10
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
11
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
12
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
13
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
14
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
15
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
16
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
17
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
18
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
19
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
20
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
21
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
22
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
23
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
24
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
25
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
26
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
27
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
28
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
29
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
30
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
31
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
32
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
33
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
T
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
T
34
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
35
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
K
M
K
T
K
M
K
M
36
N
W
N
W
N
W
N
W
N
W
N
W
N
W
N
W
N
W
N
W
N
W
N
W
N
W
N
W
N
W
N
W
N
W
N
W
Y-C
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
DOUBLE JERSY KNITS
RIB
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
52 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
1X1 RIB STRIPES.
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
53 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
54 of 141
DOUBLE FACE RIB KNITS—
RIB -Gating.
In this Double Face pattern, initially the machine should be ready with 1x1 rib fabric for atleast 1
meter below the Cylinder.
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
55 of 141
Then make the Yarn coils on the Positive storage feeder to Single coil only. Set the Q.A.P. Disc
to the Maximum level of the Diameter. Then Check the settings of Synchronise Cam Timing, Yarn
carrier, Dial Needle Latch closing, dial height, Yarn tension with Individual Stitch ca adjusting
Knobs on Cylinder and dial., Take down.
For this design cam set out exchange the Cams in the Cam box, for only one repeat and knit for
few revolutions without any fabric defects. Check yarn for slackness or tight between the Positive
storage feeder to the Yarn carrier. If found correct then proceed similarly for every repeat wise 12 revolutions .Because if holes, needle not catching the yarn loops ,Yarn carrier setting, any sort
of troubles can be set right initially within these earlier repeat of Cams, instead of getting into
trouble for full cams changed to design and then searching for on which Cam box, there is trouble.
Knit Few meters and set the required loop length and the Gsm.
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
RIB-BONDED JERSEY
TECHNICAL FACE
TECHNICAL BACK
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
56 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
57 of 141
Drop Needle Ribs
In preparing the needle arrangement , enough care should be taken while needle drop count,, failing
which lead to delay in the design start to finishing knitting.
2x1 Rib.
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
Page
1
58 of 141
Depending upon the sequence of the drop and the number of dropped needles per repeat, the needle
loop formation timing should be adjusted precisely by trial and error. Also the Yarn carrier should
be precisely set as there is more chances of needle latch rubbing on the Yarn carrier surface.
Insertion of elastomeric yarn will further give a rich outlook and stretch recovery when the fabric
is made as Garment. Drop Needle rib Knits.
5X2 DROP NEEDLE RIB
10x1 drop needle rib
TECHNICAL FACE
TECHNICAL BACK
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
BIRDS EYE.
TECHNICAL FACE & BACK.
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
59 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
60 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
61 of 141
Drop needle Rib Pattern no.2
In this drop needle pattern,initially the machine should be ready with 1x1 rib fabric for atleast 1
meter below the Cylinder.
Then make the Yarn coils on the Positive storage feeder to Single coil only. Set the Q.A.P. Disc
to the Maximum level of the Diameter.
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
62 of 141
Before drop needle work, knit few revolutions with single Yarn coil on Positive storage feeder.
Then start the Drop needle work. Initially on Cylinder. Check the sequence of drop as shown
above, for every few cam box areas. If any corrections do it correctly for the drop.
Then proceed dropping the needles and follow the checking procedure of drop for every few cam
boxes. After Completing the drop in needle knit few revolutions to check on the fabric also for
the drop .Then initiate for the dial -needle drop. Follow the check procedure sequence till
completion of the dial needle drop to full area of the dial.
Then Check the settings of Synchronise Cam Timing, Yarn carrier, Dial Needle Latch closing, dial
height, Yarn tension with Individual Stitch ca adjusting Knobs on Cylinder and dial., Take down.
Set the Elastomeric Plaiting yarn feed guide wheel setting in such a way to catch the plaited yarn
only on Dial needles.
Knit Few meters and set the required loop length and the Gsm.
Drop Needle Rib Lycra
Technical Face
Technical Back
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
Fabric Design and Analysis
1
Rib Plaiting Reversible
Technical Face
Doc No.:
Technical Back.
Page
63 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
2x1 WAFFLE KNITS.
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
64 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
NEEDLE ARRANGEMENT.
Cam Box Number
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
DIAL
K
K
K
K
K
T
T
T
CYLINDER
K
T
T
T
K
K
K
K
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
Cam Box Number
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
65 of 141
2X1 WAFFLE KNITS.
Yarn Feeding speed should be controlled separately for Cam box No.1, 5.
Similarly, Separate control for Cam box no.2,3,4 &6,7, 8……
Compared to the Feeder No.1, 5… the loop length should be less by around 38-39%
To knit this design, initially the fabric inside the machine should be set for 1x1 rib. Then drop the
needles as required, i.e. For every 2 needle, 1 drop needle, like this follow for the full cylinder
and dial area.
After this drop work, set the machine timings, yarn feed speed to the required loop length and
knit down 1-2 metres without any defect.
After this Change the waffle design cam set set out for only one repeat and knit for few
revolutions without any fabric defects, yarn slackness or tight. If found correct then proceed
similarly for every repeat wise 1-2 revolutions .Because if holes, needle not catching the yarn
loops ,Yarn carrier setting, any sort of troubles can be set right initially within these earlier repeat
of Cams, instead of getting into trouble for full cams changed to design and then searching for on
which Cam box, there is trouble.
The above shown waffle design can also be knitted with Needle set out as follows.
Needle should be set as Interlock Gating. In this setting Courser yarn count, i.e. At least 15%
courser yarn can be used, as the spacing between the dropped needles for Yarn passage during
loop formation is little more than 2x1 drop needle waffle design.
These Designs or Waffle Knit Structure is used for outerwear as well as for bath towels, as the
moisture absorbency is good, because of the Tuck stitch and dropped needle.
Self-Design 1
.
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Doube Face Rib II.
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
1 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
2 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Interlock Ripple effect.
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
3 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
4 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Interlock Ottoman Structure.
Technical Face
Technical Back.
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
5 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
INTERLOCK-OTTOMAN STRIPES.
TECHNICAL FACE
TECHNICAL BACK
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
6 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
7 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
CRINKLE BONDED JERSEY.
TECHNICAL FACE
TECHNICAL BACK
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
8 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Pin stripe Interlock.
Technical Face & Back
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
9 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Rib-2 track Self Design III
TECHNICAL FACE-Cylinder side Fabric
TECHNICAL BACK- Dial side Fabric
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
10 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
11 of 141
Loop Unravel Notation for Coursewise.
From the Above Loop notation drawing, there are Four different type of courses. So, we need
four different Yarn feed speed control. Similarly, as indicated above, on the relevant Cam box
Numbers the individual stitch adjustment knob should be adjusted for proper tension to get
consistent Yarn loop formation and the defect free fabric.
Cam Box Arrangement with Yarn Placement detail.
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
Page
1
12 of 141
To knit this design, initially the fabric inside the machine should be set for 1x1 rib.
The cam box arrangement shown above, indicates this design is repeating in every Eight feeders
(Cam box). So, after setting the Exchange cams, for Eight cam boxes, set the Yarn in storage
feeder just for only one coil, from 1-8, with little free yarn feeding, without any high tension.
Then Check the Yarn carrier, timing setting, fabric take down setting, dial height setting for the
required level to knit these 8 courses perfectly without any fabric defects. Once few revolutions
are knitted with Jog mode, without any fabric defects, then proceed for subsequent eight feeders,
cam changes.
Once the fabric is knitted for 1-2 meters below the take down rollers, check the required loop
length and then fine tune the required loop length for every course per repeat.
Green Checked Rib Derivatives.
Technical face
Technical Back.
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
13 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
INTERLOCK PIQUE
TECHNICAL FACE
TECHNCIAL BACK
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
14 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
Page
1
Rib-Checked Design on Cylinder 4 track machine.
TECHNICAL FACE
TECHNICAL BACK
15 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
16 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
INTERLOCK AUTO STRIPES.
GATING-INTERLOCK
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
1
Page
17 of 141
Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title:
Fabric Design and Analysis
Doc No.:
WKD/OM/EX/01
Issue
No.:
Page
1
18 of 141
ISO 9001:2015 Certified
ISO/IEC/17025 Accredited
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development
TEXCOMS TEXTILE SOLUTIONS
Institute,
A business division of
P.O.Box: 5637,
AkakiKality Sub city,
Addis Ababa,
Eastern Ghats International Pte. Ltd.
203 Henderson Road #12-11 (Wing B)
Ethiopia
Tel: - +251 114 395 007
Henderson Industrial Park
Fax: +251 114 395 003
Singapore 159546
www.tidi.gov.et/