2015
Basic Climbing Course
Student Manual
Climb!
Olympia
Mountaineers
www.olympiamountaineers.org
Table of Contents
Key Dates
2
Introduction
3
Basic Field Trips Requirements
7
Lecture Supplements
The Club Standards
8
The Climbing Code
8
Helmets
9
Other Safety Considerations
9
Equipment
10
The Ten Essentials
10
Equipment Checklist
11
Critical Skills
12
Mountaineering Knots and Slings
15
Intro to Climbing Section
Basic Skills
16
Belay Practice
19
Snow Travel and Self Arrest
22
Glacier Section
Snow Camp
23
Glacier Travel
32
Rock Section
Rock Fundamentals
28
Rock I
29
Rock II
31
Glossary
34
Application for Graduation
37
Application for Extension
39
Stewardship Form
41
Cover photo: Sulfide Glacier Mt. Shuksin, photo by Andrew Monk
1
Key Dates
General Notes: Lectures start promptly at 6:30 PM unless otherwise specified
th
(Chapters referenced are from the text Freedom of the Hills 8 Edition)
INTRODUCTION TO CLIMBING SECTION
Section Leaders: TBD
Lecture Schedule
Date
Subject
Study Chapters
Feb. 17
Equipment, Knots, Belay and Rappel
5, 9, 10, 11
March 3
Belay Practice, Hands on
5, 9, 10, 11
March 17
Snow Travel
16, 17,
Field Trip Schedule
Date
Alt. Date
Field Trip
Location
Leader
Feb. 21
Basic Skills
TBD
TBA
March 8 (Sunday)
Belay Practice
Priest Point Park
TBA
Mt. Rainier NP
TBA
March 21 March 22 Snow Travel
Phone
GLACIER CLIMBING SECTION
Section Leader: TBD
Lecture Schedule
Date
Subject
Study Chapters
April 7
Introduction, glacier travel and hazards
16, 17, 22, 26, 27
June 2
Z-Pulley Workshop
17
Field Trip Schedule
Date
Alt. Date
Field Trip
Location
April 12-13
April 11-12
Snow Weekend
Mt. Rainier NP
Glacier Travel
Mt. Rainier NP
June 6
ROCK CLIMBING SECTION
Section Leader: TBD
Lecture Schedule
Date
Subject
Study Chapters
April 21
Introduction, climbing techniques and anchors
11, 12, 13, App. A
Field Trip
Location
Climbing Gym
Warehouse Rock Gym
Field Trip Schedule
Date
Alt. Date
April 27
May 2
May 9
Rock Fundamentals
Spire Rock- Spanaway
May 16-17
May 23-24
Rock I &II – Rock Weekend
McCleary Cliffs at Lake Cushman
June 9th
Final Test
Basic Course Chair:
Bob Keranen
360-340-1882
2
keranen@hcc.net
Introduction
Welcome to the Olympia Mountaineers Basic Climbing Course. Taking this course is a great way to learn
solid climbing fundamentals, meet new climbing partners, and find opportunities to climb some of the
area's most spectacular peaks. Students with some prior climbing experience typically learn new skills,
improve their prior skills, and become better rounded climbers.
The course is broken down into four sections. The first of the four sections is Wilderness Skills, which is
a prerequisite for the climbing and scrambling courses. It is expected that students entering Introduction
to Climbing would be recent graduates of Wilderness Skills or actively using the skills taught in that
course. The second section is Introduction to Climbing and is prerequisite for the final two sections, Rock
and Glacier climbing. Students are allowed two years to complete the course, although the course is
designed to be finished in one year. Application deadlines for graduation or extension into a second year
are due on October 1st. Graduation requirements include completing all field trips, lectures, experience
climbs, Mountaineering Oriented First Aid (MOFA), a conservation project, a final exam, and approval
from the Climbing Committee.
Upon completion of a section a student can participate in the following climb types:
Introduction to Climbing: Completion of this section allows students to participate on Conditioners
and Alpine climbs. Leader permission is required for Alpine Climbs. More, information about the types
of climbs is given below.
Basic Rock Section: Completion of this section allows students to participate on Conditioners, Alpine,
and Rock climbs.
Basic Glacier Completion of this section allows students to participate on Conditioners, Alpine, and
Glacier climbs.
Experience Climbs
To graduate from the Basic Climbing Course students must successfully complete at least four basic
experience climbs, including one Conditioner, one Glacier, one Rock, and the fourth climb could be an
Alpine, Rock or Glacier climb. The Conditioner must be done before any other climbs. More about the
types of climbs is given below.
About the Climbs
All of the Mountaineer Basic Experience Climbs are done "Alpine Style", which means carrying
everything you need to climb a peak. Alpine style climbers must share the work of carrying all the group
gear and carry their own personal gear. Some climbs have approaches that take one hour, and others
approaches might take all day or multiple days to travel into remote wilderness areas.
Students are required to complete a minimum of four Mountaineer's basic experience climbs to qualify for
graduation. Feel free to participate on more than the minimum number of climbs you are qualified to do.
Basic Experience Climbs are divided into four categories, which broadly describe the nature of the
technical challenges. The four categories include: Conditioner, Alpine, Rock, and Glacier.
3
Climb Categories
Conditioner (C)
Conditioners are typically non-technical routes that are climbed for fun, exercise, testing equipment, and
as training for more technically challenging routes. All students are required to do at least one
conditioner before any of the other climbs. Again, feel free to do more than one, since there are several
excellent mountains to climb that are rated as Conditioners.
Basic Alpine (A)
Alpine climbs are a mixed bag with a lot of variety. Alpine climbs sometimes offer a short section of
roped glacier or roped rock climbing, but not enough to qualify as a glacier or rock climb. Usually Alpine
climbs consist of long sections of steep snow and sections of 3rd class unroped scrambling. Do not assume
that alpine climbs are easier or safer than basic rock or glacier climbs. Many Alpine climbs rival the
longer glacier climbs for strenuousness, and unroped scrambling can present risks not found on many
roped rock climbs.
NOTE: Students should request leader permission to participate on Alpine climbs if they have not
completed the entire basic climbing course. Students should discuss the climb with the leader to make
certain their skills and their level of conditioning match the climb leader's expectations. For example, a
climb leader might expect traveling light and fast over exposed rock while unroped. Other alpine climbs
might require rappelling that is taught in the Rock Section or glacier travel and camping on snow that is
taught in the Glacier Section.
Basic Rock Climbs (R)
Basic Rock Climbs typically have between two to six pitches of roped rock climbing at a relatively low
technical level, from exposed 4th class to class 5.5. The most common and generally most serious hazard
on Basic Rock climbs is rock fall. It should be taken seriously at all times. Due diligence and caution by
all party members should reduce rock fall potential to a reasonable level of risk.
Glacier Climbs (G)
Glacier climbs are long, strenuous climbs on the higher glaciated peaks in the Northwest. They are
typically overnight or multi-day trips, may include camping on snow, and often require a pre-dawn start
from a high camp followed by several hours of glacier travel.
Management of physical requirements such as food, clothing, and water tend to be most problematic on
glacier climbs. After unfavorable weather conditions, the most common causes for aborting a glacier
climb are party members who fail to carry or drink enough water and become dehydrated; or become
severely sunburned or snow-blinded; or succumb to altitude sickness.
The risk of a serious crevasse accident is minimal if the party is well equipped, well trained, and attentive.
How-ever, the complacency that often sets in after hours of slogging up a glacier can increase danger.
Party members should keep ropes extended and hold their ice axes ready for arrest.
Rating Systems
Learning and understanding the various rating systems allows the climber to match their skills and desired
level of challenge against the relative difficulty of a climb.
4
Climb Categories
S/S: Seriousness and Strenuousness
Some of the Mountaineer climb listings may present a rating that looks like a fraction, for example: 2/3.
The scale is from 1 to 5, with 1being easiest and 5 being the hardest. The first number, seriousness, refers
to the technical difficulty, exposure, and commitment of a climb. The second number, strenuousness,
refers to the physical demands and level of conditioning required.
Grades I - V
In this rating system the overall difficulty of a route is represented by a Roman numeral from I through V,
with Grade I being easiest and Grade V being most difficult. This rating takes many factors into account
including: length in both time and distance, average difficulty of individual pitches, expected hazards,
level of commitment and the ability to escape.
Classes 1 - 5
Never applied to the entire climb, this rating, known as the "Class;' indicates the severity of the most
difficult pitch on the route. These numbers are loosely defined as follows:
Walking
Easy scrambling, some use of hands may be required
Scrambling, usually unroped and potentially exposed
Difficult scrambling, exposure may require roped climbing for safety
Technical climbing requiring placement of protection for safety
Class 5 rock climbing is further divided into decimals to better define the difficulty of the pitch, ranging
from to 5.10, and up to 5.13 for more extreme climbing. Most basic rock climbs range from Class 5.0 to
5.5.
Safety
We climb because we enjoy the sport and intend to have fun during our trips into the mountains. But,
never forget that climbing is a dangerous sport with serious risks. So please, no goofing around with
safety. Unsafe behavior cannot be tolerated in a class of this nature. So just as a solid belay anchor
includes backups and redundancy, the theme of safety will be reemphasized often throughout this course.
5
Summary of Sections and Skills Learned
Introduction to Climbing Section
Mountaineers membership required
Prerequisites:
Wilderness Skills Course; OR Scrambling Graduate and be an active participant in alpine scrambling in
good standing with the club.
Attendance at all lectures and field trips is required. The first two field trips must be taken with the
Olympia Branch. Snow 1 field trip, or equivalent, may be made up with another club branch if permission
from that branch is obtained and the dates fit the Olympia Basic Course schedule
This section will teach:
Climbing equipment, including: harness, rope, belay devices, and ice axe.
Knots
Belay Techniques, including: sitting hip belay, belaying with a device and Munter hitch, standing
carabiner and boot axe belays, communication and voice commands.
Rope management and coiling.
Traveling along a fixed line
Rappelling is introduced in this Section, but taught with more emphasis in the Rock Section.
Because many alpine style climbs require a snow approach this Section includes snow travel, ice axe
use, self-arrests, self belay, glissade, and snow anchors.
Rock Section
Prerequisites: Introduction to Climbing Section
Attendance at all lectures and field trips is required. The first field trip in the Warehouse Rock Gym must
be taken with the Olympia Branch, but the other field trips may be made up with other club branches. *
This section will teach:
Rock climbing techniques and moving safely on rock.
Rappelling with device and carabineer brake
Knots, anchors, and more practice belaying
Glacier Section
Prerequisites: Introduction to Climbing Section
Attendance at all lectures and field trips is required. Field trips may be made up with other club branches. *
This section will teach:
More practice with self-arrests and snow belays.
Camping on snow
High altitude climbing
Glacier travel and recognizing glacier hazards
Crevasse rescue and Z pulley setup
* If permission from that branch is obtained and the dates fit the Olympia Basic Course schedule. Make up
field trips may not be possible.
6
Basic Field Trips Requirements
The field trips are conducted to give you the opportunity
to practice techniques you've learned from the lectures
and the text. These are accepted mountaineering
techniques and will be used on any climb scheduled by
the Mountaineers.
Be on time. Have yourself and your gear ready at the
designated time. Students arriving late may not be
allowed to participate.
Please be cautious. There is always a certain degree of
risk in any mountaineering practice or climb. Pay
attention and follow your instructor's advice. Your safety
and enjoyment depend on your cooperation.
Do not litter any of the practice or climbing areas. Carry
out everything you carry in.
Follow the instructions given. The techniques and
information taught on these field trips are accepted
mountaineering techniques. There maybe more than one
way to do some things, but the techniques you will learn
has been standardized for consistent instruction and
safety.
Be courteous. The instructors on these field trips are
fellow Mountaineers who are volunteering their time to
teach during these practices. Listen to their advice.
Bring the equipment required for each practice. The
needed equipment for each field trip is listed on page 7
in this manual. Club ropes will be used on all field trips.
Mark all your equipment with name or initials that will
stand up to abrasion and moisture.
Wool clothing, pile, or polypropylene must be worn or
carried in the pack for Belay Practice and Rock field
trips. Wool clothing, pile, or polypropylene must be
worn at Snow Travel & Self Arrest, Snow Camp and
Glacier Travel field trips. It is also mandatory for all
Basic snow climbs and for all glacier travel.
Follow the club standards.
No one should leave the practice site for home until
dismissed by the leader.
Each student must have his or her own individual
equipment and lunch. Relatives and close friends will
be separated on practices.
Attendance and participation in the field trips are
mandatory. The field trips are scheduled in a sequence
that will prepare you for field trips and climbs. The
sequence is planned to provide you with the knowledge
of necessary climbing techniques prior to the time the
techniques are actually needed. This is intended to
provide all participants with a margin of safety in all
practice and climbing situations.
You must complete the Basic Techniques and Belay
Practice field trips with the Olympia Branch. No
Exceptions.
You must also:
Complete the Basic Techniques field trip prior
the Belay Practice field trip.
Complete the Belay Practice field trip prior to
Snow Travel & Self Arrest and Rock
Fundamentals field trips.
Complete Snow Travel & Self Arrest prior to
Snow camp field trip.
Complete Rock Fundamentals prior to Rock 1
field trip.
Complete Rock 1 field trip prior to Rock 2 field
trip.
Complete Snow Travel &Self Arrest and Snow
Camp prior to Glacier Travel field trip.
Prior to participating in a field trip students must
attend the lecture(s) relevant to that field trip.
You must sign up for the field trips at the lecture which
immediately precedes any trip.
Basic Experience Climbs Requirements
To Get Basic Experience Climbs Credit
Basic students must complete all lectures through rock
climbing and all field trips through Rock2 prior to
participating in rock climbs.
Only those Basic Experience climbs approved by the
Climbing Committee and those Basic Experience climbs
listed in The "Go Guide" by other Mountaineer basic
climbing courses may be used for Basic Experience climb
Basic students must complete all lectures through Snow and credit.
Glacier Travel and all field trips through Glacier Travel
prior to participating in glacier climbs.
The summit must be reached on basic alpine, rock and
glacier climbs by the individual climber and the entire climb
must be completed in a safe and competent manner to
receive credit.
7
The Club Standards
All members of the Mountaineers, in order to attain the
Club purposes, "To explore and study the mountains,
forests and water courses of the Northwest and beyond"
in a spirit of good fellowship, shall subscribe to the
following standards:
To exercise personal responsibility and to
conduct themselves on Club activities and
premises in a manner that will not impair the
safety of the party, or prevent the collective
participation and enjoyment of others.
To respect private property.
To enter the "outdoors" as a visitor, leaving
behind no debris, environmental scars, or other
indications of their visit which would reduce the
enjoyment of those who follow.
To minimize the environmental impact on the
outdoors by using campfires only in properly
designated areas and extinguishing completely
after use; conducting human sanitation and
washing away from watercourses; and carrying
out all solid waste brought into the out-doors.
To abstain from using alcohol and other drugs
or medications on Club activities and premises
in which such use would affect the safety of
the party or impair the collective participation
and enjoyment of others.
Do not bring pets, firearms, or any other
item(s) that will impair the safety or
enjoyment of others on Mountaineer premises
or on Club activities.
To obey all applicable specific regulations of
governmental agencies which affect
Mountaineer activities and property.
To obey those specific regulations imposed by
the Board of Trustees, Branches and Divisions
of The Mountaineers, which are necessary to
implement the above.
Those Mountaineers who deviate from this philosophy
and from the specific Club regulations may be subject
to the disciplinary procedures of the Club, including
expulsion.
The Climbing Code
A climbing party of three is the minimum,
unless adequate prearranged support is
available. On glaciers a minimum of two rope
teams is recommended.
Leave the trip schedule with a responsible person.
Carry at all times the clothing, food and
equipment necessary.
Keep the party together and obey the leader or
majority rule.
Rope up on all exposed places and for all
glacier travel. Anchor all belays.
Never climb beyond your ability and
knowledge.
Never let judgment be overruled by desire
when choosing the route or turning back.
Follow the precepts of sound mountaineering
as set forth in textbooks of recognized merit.
Behave at all times in a manner that will
reflect favorably upon mountaineering, with
minimum impact to the environment.
The Climbing Code is a standard of judgment based on
many years of mountaineering experience. In risky or
doubtful situations it increases the margin for safety
and success. It is a guide for both veteran and novice
alike; the key to safe and sane climbing.
Follow it religiously until its precepts become second
nature.
8
Helmets
Mountain climbing is an inherently dangerous activity,
you must be aware of that. Some of the hazards are
beyond your control, like naturally falling ice or rock.
You and your climbing partners can reduce other
hazards.
One of the greatest risks as a climber is suffering a
serious or fatal head injury from falling rock, ice or other
objects or from striking your head while falling yourself.
A quality safety helmet may well save your life, but only
if it is worn.
While participating in this course you will be required to
wear a UIAA approved helmet. But anytime you climb,
you should personally consider wearing a helmet if you
would be exposed to head injury. Don't be swayed by
careless decisions of others: It's your head!
Conditioning
Students will benefit themselves and their classmates by
starting or continuing a conditioning program. If you are
not in condition, you will fatigue easily after a short
period of exercise, and you will be susceptible to muscle
cramps, stiffness and soreness in following days. As you
reach the point of exhaustion, you can become too tired
to concentrate on route finding and technical skills. In
short, a supposedly enjoyable outing becomes a painful
ordeal with increasing risks to both you and other party
members.
Aerobic power is what is needed to maintain the level of
energy needed for mountaineering. Only if one regularly
participates in a strenuous physical activity such as jogging,
swimming, bicycling or hiking, can your aerobic power be
increased. The activity should be prolonged enough to
produce a sweat and induce mild breathlessness for at least
30 minutes at a time.
Many of the other risks associated with climbing can also
be minimized by your personal choices and actions. The
primary responsibility for your safety is always your
own.
Other Safety Considerations
The popularity of hiking, backpacking, backcountry skiing, and climbing grows each year. Competition
for space and solitude increases. Soil, plant, water, wildlife, and scenery bear the brunt of the seasonal
onslaught of backcountry users. Litter, pollution, erosion, and noise increasingly scar the wilderness we
seek to enjoy.
When we step from the car and onto the trail, the protective asphalt is left behind us. Our attitude and
actions must change to conform to the fragile surroundings. We are obligated, as users, to help sustain the
illusion of solitude and the illusion of being first.
Most of us are sensitive to the obvious-no littering, no polluting, no tree or trail cutting. The land,
however, demands more of us. We must learn how to minimize our impacts even more. We might have to
work at it a bit, but only until it becomes second nature, just like taking the right equipment.
Learn, practice, and teach the following principles:
Plan ahead and prepare
Camp and travel on durable surfaces
Pack it in, pack it out
Properly dispose of what you can't pack out
Leave what you find
Minimize use and impact of fires
For rock climbing: minimize climbing impacts, too.
9
Equipment
The cost of equipping yourself depends on how much
gear you have accumulated in prior outdoors activities
(climbing, backpacking, hiking, and skiing), your
abilities in crafting, improvising or bargain hunting,
and your tastes. Some items can be rented or borrowed
until your interest is certain and your funds are
available. However many items will need to be bought
eventually, and these will be the major expense of this
class for most students.
Some clothing items can be bought at the Good Will
and Salvation Army Thrift Stores with persistence and
luck. Army Surplus Stores also provide bargains at
times. For those willing to spend the bucks, there are
many outdoor recreation stores to cater to your
comfort and style and you will soon find that there is
no upper limit to what you can spend to equip
yourself.
Many items cannot be improvised. For example,
regular sunglasses are no substitute for glacier glasses
and ski pants are no substitute for wool or fleece pants.
An approved climbing helmet is required on all rock
climbs and many alpine and glacier climbs. Bicycle and
construction helmets are not acceptable. Your compass
must have these features: rotating bezel, parallel
straight edges, adjustable declination and a clear base.
Sunscreen should have a sun protection factor of at
least 8, and for those with sensitive skin or planning
climbs above 8000: a stronger lotion is desirable.
The equipment checklist tells what is needed for each
trip.
The Ten Essentials
1. Navigation
2. Sun Protection
3. Insulation (Extra Clothing)
4. Illumination
5. First Aid Supplies
6. Fire
7. Repair Kit and Tools
8. Nutrition (Extra Food)
9. Hydration (Extra Water)
10. Emergency Shelter
Sources of Climbing and Camping Equipment
Recreational Equipment Ine.
625 Black Lake Blvd SW, Suite 410
Olympia, WA 98502
360-786-1938
Marmot Mountain Works
827 Bellevue Way NE
Bellevue, WA 425-453-1515
Warehouse Rock Gym
315 Jefferson Street Northeast
Olympia, WA 98501
360-596-9255
North Face
1023 1st Avenue
Seattle, WA 206-622-4111
Big5 Sporting Goods
1001Cooper Point Rd.
Olympia, WA 360-786-6529
Patagonia Seattle
2100 First Avenue
Seattle, WA 206-622-9700
Wilderness Sports
14340 NE 20th
Bellevue, WA 425-746-0500
Mt. Constance Mtn. Shop
1500 NE Riddel Rd.
Bremerton, WA 360-377-0668
Feathered Friends
119 Yale Avenue N.
Seattle, WA 206-292-2210
Eddie Bauer, Ine.
5th & Union
Seattle, WA 206-622-2766
For additional sources, see yellow pages
under Camping Equipment, Skiing
Equipment, Mountain Climbing Equipment
and Sporting Goods.
10
All Washington topo maps are available
at Dept. of Natural Resources, Maps and
Surveys Office, 902-1234.
Many of the sources listed have some
rental equipment; however, in general,
the equipment is limited in quantity.
Rent early to be sure of getting what
you want. You may not be satisfied long
with renting, primarily because of the
inconvenience and/or unavailability of
rental equipment.
Rock I & II
Conditioner
Alpine
Glacier
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
R R
-
S
S
S
S
R
O
R
O
R
O
O
S
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
O
O
R
R**
R**
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
O
O
R
-
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
O
O
R
-
R
R
R
R
R
O
R
O
R
O
O
S
R
R
R
R
R
O
R
O
R
O
O
S
R
R
R
R
R
S
R
L
R
O
O
S
R
R
R
R
R
S
R
R
R
O
O
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
O
L
R
R
-
R
R
-
R
R
-
R
R
R
R
R
-
R
R
R
R
R
-
R
R
-
R
R
-
L
L
L
L
L
L
L
L
R R
L R
R R
R L
Rock
Rock Fund.
R
Climbs
Rock Gym
Rock Section
R
Glacier
Section
Z-Pulley
Glacier
Travel
Ten Essentials (every time, all the time)
Clothing
Fleece* Pants
Fleece* Sweaters or pile jackets (1 or 2)
Fleece* hat, ear covers
Fleece* socks (2 pair)
Gloves; preferably Fleece*
Cover mittens; waterproof/windproof
Climb boots – lug soles
Gaitors; extends to below the knee
Rain Gear; coat and pants
Wind parka
Heavy parka
Long underwear; synthetic or wool
Technical Gear
Carabiners; 6 standard, 3 locking (2 small)
Climbing Helmet, UIAA approved
Rescue Pulley
Crampons
Ice Axe
Leather Belay Gloves – rough cowhide
Climbing rope; 9 or 11 mm
Texas Prusiks (provided by the Olympia Branch)
Additional prusiks
Harness
Chest Sling
Additional slings
Belay / Rappel Device
Snow Wands (6)
Rock Shoes
Travel Gear
Snow Shoes (Rent or buy)
Ski or Trekking Poles
Overnight Gear
Sleeping Bag – Synthetic or down
Insulation Pad
Backpacking stove
Fuel Bottle
Cooking pot
Eating utensils
Tent or bivouac sack
Large pack – 40 pound capacity
Other Items
Day Pack – 15 pound capacity***
Water bottle; 1 quart (2 quarts in summer)
Sunscreen; SPF 10 or better
Food or snacks/meals (10 essentials)
Snow Shovel
Plastic Tarp
Snow Camp
Intro to
Climbing
Basic Skills
Belay
Practice
Snow Travel
EQUPMENT CHECK LIST
R
R
R
R
R
S
R
L
R
O
O
S
-
R
R
R
R
R
-
-
-
L
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
L
L
R R
L
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
O O
-
R
-
R
R
R
-
O O
-
L
R
R
R
-
S
R
R
-
R
R
O
S
R R
L
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
L
L
R R
R
R
R
R
R
R
-
R
R
L
L
R R
R
R
-
R
R
-
R
R
-
R
R
R
-
R
R
-
R
R
R
-
R
O
R
R
-
R
R
O
L
-
R
L
L
-
R R
L R
R - L
-
-
L
S
L
S
-
-
-
-
-
L
S
L
S
L
S
L
S
-
S
-
S
-
R
R
A
A
A
R
A
R
-
S
-
-
S
-
S
S
S
S
S
S
S
-
L
L
L
L
L
L
L
L
L
L
L
L
L
L
L
L
L
L
L
L
L
L
L
L
L
L
L
L
L
L
L
L
R
S
-
R
R
R
R
-
R
R
R
R
-
O
R
R
R
A
S
-
R
R
R
R
-
-
R
R
R
R
-
R
R
R
R
-
R
R
R
R
-
R
R
R
R
L
L
R
R
R
R
L
L
R
R
R
R
L
-
* Acceptable alternatives include pile or wool.
** 2 pair of fleece* pants and 2 fleece* shirts are required for Snow Camp field trip.
*** A large overnight pack can be substituted for a day pack.
R: Required; S: Suggested; 0: Optional; A: One for every other student; L: Leader may require on some climbs.
11
CRITICAL SKILLS
Mountaineering is a sport of controlled risk. As
mountaineers we face both objective dangers in the
mountain world and subjective factors that are
dependent on the climber. Although we can't change
objective hazards, such as bad weather, we have
considerable control over subjective factors:
A CLIMBER'S KNOWLEDGE, SKILL AND
JUDGMENT
As soon as you know you need help or extra practice,
contact your mentor. That's what mentors are for. They
expect to be called. Your mentor will work out an
arrangement with you to meet the requirements on the
attached Critical Skills chart.
Your mentor will then call the Critical Skills
Coordinator and "OK" you for the next field trip, climb
or other course related-activity. The Coordinator will
then note the "OK" in your field trip record book.
Without this "OK” you may not be able to continue to
the next field trip (see chart). It would also be a good
idea for you to contact the Critical Skills Coordinator
to make sure everything has been cleared for you to
continue.
This section focuses on the skill element. The climbing
committee has identified "Critical Skills" that are
extremely important to you and your climbing partner's
safety. If you're not proficient (able to perform the skill
properly without help from your instructor) at these
skills at a particular point in the course, we feel the
Example:
risk of serious injury or death is too great for you or
Let's say you are having a day when nothing is going
your climbing partners.
right. It's Snow Travel field trip, and your instructor
A critical skill has a "what" and a "when" component. feels you don't have the sitting hip belay down as well
We've identified 3 "what" areas:
as you should (and you even belayed perfectly on the
previous field trips). The chart says you must show
Belays
proficiency with your belay technique by the next field
trip and before a climb. Give your mentor a call to
Ice axe arrests
schedule time to get together.
Knots
We've also identified when you must show proficiency
of the skills. They are critical on all climbs. The field
trips at which you must show proficiency are listed on
the attached chart. They are also marked in your field
trip record books.
If you have a Mt. Snoqualmie climb scheduled, you
have to demonstrate proficiency before you can go on
the climb.
And remember, this is all about "critical skills': You
can also call your mentor or any member of the
climbing committee about anything. If you want help
So. . . . . . .what happens if your instructor is not
on something other than a critical skill, we're here for
comfortable with your skill level of a critical skill after that too.
a particular field trip or climb? Your instructor/leader
will make a note in your field trip record book or climb
report. You will see your record book after each field
trip.
IT'S YOUR RESPONSIBILITY FROM HERE.
A WORD ABOUT YOUR MENTOR....
We all need a little help once in a while, so all students are assigned a mentor. Mentors are volunteers who have
passed the course and give their time to help students work through areas of difficulty. Please call them if you need
help with any area of instruction or if you just want extra practice. In the event you and your mentor cannot
schedule a time to meet, or if you just can't "get it" the way s/he teaches it, call the mentor coordinator to make other
arrangements.
12
CRITICAL SKILLS
WHAT HAPPENS IF . . . . . .
Intro to Climbing
Field Trip
Belay Practice
Critical Skill
What To Do if Not Proficient:
(All skills must be demonstrated to the satisfaction of your mentor
and the Climbing Committee)
Knots
Must demonstrate proficiency before next field trip and before any climb.
Belaying, all aspects
(Device and Munter
hitch)
Must show proficiency before next field trip. Must show proficiency before
Rock Fundamentals field trip and before any Alpine, Rock or Glacier climb.
Arrests
Must demonstrate proficiency before any climb on snow (must see mentor
if scheduled for a climb on snow prior to Snow Camp; otherwise can
demonstrate proficiency with instructor at Snow Camp).
Snow Travel & Self
Sitting Hip Belay
Arrest
Knots
Must show proficiency before next field trip. Must show proficiency before
Rock Fundamentals field trip and before any Alpine, Rock or Glacier climb.
Must demonstrate proficiency before next field trip and before any climb.
Arrests and Team Arrests Must demonstrate proficiency before Glacier Travel field trip and before any
climb.
Glacier Section
Snow Camp
Must demonstrate proficiency before next field trip and before any climb.
Standing Carabiner-Ice Must demonstrate proficiency before Glacier Travel field trip and before any
Axe and Boot Axe Belay climb.
Glacier Travel
Rock Fund
Rock Section
Knots
Rock I
Rock II
Any Climb
Sitting Hip Belay
Must demonstrate proficiency before Rock Fundamentals field trip and
before any climb.
Knots
Must
demonstrate proficiency before any climb.
any
climb
Belays
Must show proficiency before any climb. Cannot participate in any climb
without safe belaying skills.
Arrests
Must demonstrate proficiency before any climb.
Knots
Must demonstrate proficiency before next field trip and before any climb.
Belaying
Must show proficiency before next field trip. Cannot participate in Rock I
field trip or any climb without safe belaying skills.
Knots
Must demonstrate proficiency before next field trip and before any climb.
Belaying
Must show proficiency before next field trip. Cannot participate in Rock II
field trip or any climb without safe belaying skills.
Knots
Must demonstrate proficiency before next field trip and before any climb.
Belaying
Must show proficiency before next field trip. Cannot participate in
field trip or any climb without safe belaying skills.
Knots, Belays and
Arrests
Must demonstrate proficiency before next field trip and before next climb.
13
CRITICAL SKILLS
Critical Skills Problem on
Climb
Critical Skills Problem on
Field Trip
Leader Confers with
student
Field Trip
Leader/Instructor confers
with student
Leader Contacts Critical
Skills Coordinator
Student Contacts
Mentor
Leader/Instructor contacts
Critical Skills Coordinator
More Practice/Help
Student Demonstrates
Critical Skills
Continued Problem with
Critical Skills
Mentor Contacts Critical
Skills Coordinator
Student is Unable to Perform
Critical Skill Satisfactorily
Critical Skills Coordinator “OKs”
next Field Trip or climb
Critical Skills Coordinator: Richard Irwin
Student is Dropped from
course.
360-580-8694
14
rirwin@mybivey.com
MOUNTAINEERING KNOTS AND SLINGS
Knot craft is the first critical skill you will be learning, and it's a skill you must begin learning
immediately. Knots are the technical climber's safety net-our critical backup. There are 12 knots used to
fulfill a variety of purposes, which you must become absolutely confident with:
1. Single bowline (for anchors)
2. Double bowline (use as a center-person knot)
3. Water knot (for permanent knot in slings or runners)
4. Figure eight loop (clip into carabiners)
5. Figure eight rewoven (for direct tie into your harness)
6. Grapevine or double fisherman (tying two ropes together)
7. Bachman (for Z-pulley in crevasse rescue)
8. Prusik (for ascending rope or rappel backup)
9. Munter hitch (emergency belay or rappel)
10. Girth hitch (tying into anchor)
11. Clove hitch (tying into anchor)
12. Mule knot (used in leader tie off)
In addition to learning how to tie these knots, gain an understanding of the circumstances under which
each knot is used. Practice tying the knots every day with a piece of six foot rope or perlon. You will be
expected to tie them under the close scrutiny of your instructor or mentor. Do them over and over againeven try tying them with your eyes closed. Review each knot prior to every field trip so time isn't wasted
relearning a technique and potentially delaying your progress or your field trip group.
Runners or slings are loops made from 5 to 6 feet of one inch tubular nylon webbing using a water knot.
They are used extensively in anchoring belays. Be sure to set the water knot joining the webbing together
before you have to trust it.
Most knots used in mountaineering tend to loosen under normal use. Therefore, you should leave
sufficient tail-about two inches or more, so that you can tie off loose ends with an overhand knot. Two
habits to get into:
Conduct a safety check-once knots are tied, check each others' knots before moving.
Get in the practice of rechecking your knots frequently-and your partner's.
The knot must also be "dressed" correctly; that is, the rope or webbing used is correctly positioned so the
knot material lies cleanly and in correct position in relation to the other strands in the knot. This is
extremely important for the Prusik and water knot.
Freedom of the Hills covers all of these knots.
15
Notes
16
Basic Skills
(Intro to Climbing)
DATE:
See field trip schedule
TIME:
To be announced (TBA)
DURATION:
Approximately 7 hours
PLACE:
TBA
EQUIPMENT REQUIRED:
See Equipment Checklist plus: USGS Mount Rainier National Park (MRNP) map,
1” webbing and 5-6mm perlon on Equipment list Handout, Prusik material for Texas
Prusiks will be provided; Lunch and liquid
REVIEW:
Chapters 1, 2, 4, 5, 9 and 10
This is the first of several field trips in which you will put into
practice what you have learned from the text and course lectures.
Here you will demonstrate your ability to tie knots and be taught
fundamental sling and rope handling techniques, belaying
principles, and map and compass use.
Know your knots before this field trip.
Climber:
Belayer:
Climber:
Climber:
Climber:
Climber:
This is an indoor practice so dress accordingly. Lunch will be
taken at a time convenient, there is no general break.
Climber:
Field trip stations will include:
Climber:
1. Knot Demonstration
"Climbing" Can he climb?
"Climb" Acknowledges climber; yes, he can.
"Up Rope" Belayer takes up extra slack.
"That's Me" Belayer stops taking up slack.
"Falling!" Belayer instantly goes into arrest.
"Slack" Belayer doles out about 6 inches. If climber
needs more, he repeats the command.
"Tension" Belayer takes up as much slack as he can
and then goes into arrest.
"Off Belay" Spoken only after climber has clipped
into an anchor or is in a secure position.
"Belay Off" Spoken~ after climber has been
securely anchored or is in a secure position.
You will demonstrate your ability to tie the following:
Belayer:
1. single bowline
2. double bowline
3. Mule (leader tie off)
4. Bachman
5. clove hitch
6. Munter hitch
The use of names with climbing signals is a useful practice when
climbing in a crowded area.
7. Prusik
8. figure eight rewoven
9. figure eight loop
10. water knot
11. grapevine (dbl. fisherman)
12. girth hitch
2. Harnesses
a. Approval of commercial harness
b. Emergency alternative (refer to Chapter 9 page 149)
c. Chest harness
3. Prusik
Use of the Prusik knot and Prusik slings will be demonstrated by
an instructor. (Chapter 17 p379-380)
4. Belaying and Roping up
The rope is your safety line. You will learn the proper use and
care of it. The standard climbing signals will be introduced; these
will be used throughout this course and your climbing days:
Study the signals plus what they mean and where they're used
(Chapter 110 page 183).
Climber: "On Belay" Signifies he's ready to climb – i.e., tied in
and at the start of the pitch.
Belayer: "Belay On" Signifies he's ready to belay – i.e.,gloves
on, 'biners in place, anchor secure, in belay stance.
Climber: "Test Belay"
Belayer: "Test Belay"
Much time is wasted on climbs by those who cannot tie in
quickly and correctly. You must have your knots and roping up
techniques mastered by the next field trip.
What is a belay? How do you set it up? How is it done? All will
be taught at the belay station. You will get more out of this
station if you review Chapter 10 before the field trip.
5. Rope Coiling
Learn mountaineer coil and butterfly coil as shown in
Freedom of the Hills.
6. Map and Compass
The first steps in becoming comfortable with your compass and
topographical map will be taken here, under direction of the field
trip leader and instructors. Study your notes taken during the
navigation lecture and your text.
7. Ten Essentials
The ten essentials are essential to assuring an adequate margin of
safety. Each year climbers experience or encounter delays or
mishaps that require equipment or provisions beyond the normal
requirements of the climb. Your ten essentials will be criticized
by an experienced mountaineer. Consider his or her advice carefully; your life may some day depend on it.
17
BELAYING WITH BELAY DEVICES
The belayer should connect to the main
anchor with the climbing rope by taking a
length of rope directly from their harness and
making a clove hitch and clipping it into the
main anchor with a locking carabiner.
When sitting and facing the direction of fall,
take the climbing rope closest to the climber
and make a bight in the rope and insert it
thru the aperture in the metal plate, and clip
it into the locking carabiner on the front of
your harness. If the belay device has a safety
loop attached, clip the carabiner to it too.
BELAY DEVICE SETUP
When using a figure 8, it is recommended that you clip two carabiners to the large loop to prevent the device from
sliding away. Some figure 8s are not designed to be used as belay devices. The only ones recommended by the
manufacturers for belaying are: SMC Straight 8, Wild Country Super 8, CLOG Cosmic Arrester. When used as a
belay device, the anchor tie-in should be on the side of your braking hand. This will reduce the twisting motion
when holding a fall.
When arresting, the brake hand moves away from the device, towards the hip on the same side as the braking hand.
(See Chapter 10 p159-163) Belay devices must be attached to the belayer and not directly to the anchor. Be certain
there is minimal slack between your anchor and your belay position, otherwise unwanted movement may occur
when holding a fall.
RAPPEL DEVICES SETUPS
The setup and rope handling with the
tuber is the same as the belaying
technique. With the figure 8, a bight
of rope is brought thru the large hole
and placed around the backside of the
small hole. The locking carabiner
keeps the rope from slipping off.
Rappelling with a stitch plate or other
like device is not recommended.
18
Texas Prusik System
Prusik slings are to be carried on all glacier climbs. They allow you
to rescue yourself should you fall into a crevasse. It consists of two
parts:
1.
2.
A sling made of 45 to 55 inches of 6mm cord. This
sling attaches to the climbing rope with a Prusik knot.
The other end is clipped into the locking carabiner on
the seat harness.
Cord, 130"to 140" long, with loops for the feet at each
end. The middle of this strand is tied with a figure
eight, with a bight 6" inches long. This 6" bight will
attach to the climbing rope with a Prusik knot between
the Prusik of the short sling and the locking carabiner.
The foot loops are tied with an overhand knot on a
bight. To make a cinching loop, just feed the main cord
through the loop making a girth hitch. (The cord
lengths are approximate, the slings will be tailored to
your height; however, after using, you may wish to
make further adjustments.) For added stability while
using the slings, they may be wrapped around your leg
before slipping them over your boot.
(Ref. Ch 17 p379-381)
The foot ends are generally carried in the climber's pocket
until they are needed.
Chest Harness
A chest harness (or sling) is also part of your crevasse
rescue gear. It is used to hold the climber upright while
ascending the rope. Chest harnesses made from webbing are
the most comfortable. The webbing should fit tightly over
your normal outer climbing clothes.
The carabiner connecting the harness together in front
should be positioned with the gate facing out. In use (while
prusiking), the long Prusik sling and the climbing rope are
clipped into this carabiner. This allows the climber to have
both hands free to work the Prusik knots.
Emergency Seat Harness
The Climbing Committee recommends that you use an appropriate commercial seat harness on all field trips and experience
climbs. However, a situation may arise where a person needs a harness to climb or rappel but has no commercial harness with
them. In this case, a diaper sling may be rigged using a double-length runner or two single runners tied together with water
knots. One such harness is illustrated below.
Starting with the loop behind the back, one end is pulled to the front from each side and a third end from between the legs. The
three loops are clipped together in front with a locking carabiner or two opposing regular carabiners. The harness can be
snugged up by adjusting a water knot.
Some safety considerations when using an emergency seat
harness:
Never rappel or climb using a simple waist-loop as a
harness. Hanging by a waist loop will result in
constriction of the diaphragm, an inability to breathe, and
unconsciousness.
Make sure the water knots are tied correctly with enough
tail to prevent untying under the stress of a fall or rappel.
Make sure that all three loops are clipped together by the
carabiner(s).
19
Belay Practice
DATE:
TIME:
DURATION:
PLACE:
EQUIPMENT REQUIRED:
REVIEW:
(Intro to Climbing)
See field trip schedule
TBA
All day - Approximately 10hours
Priest Point Park, Olympia
See Equipment Checklist
Lunch and liquid
Chapters 2, 5, 9, 10, 11, Ch 16 (p349-351), Ch 17 (p379-381, p394-396)
Be sure your slings are tied and ready before the practice begins to avoid unnecessary delays for you and other students.
Throughout the day, you will use the knots and techniques taught on your first field trip.
Practice at home.
Know your knots!
Critical Skills for Field Trips are Boxed
Following check-in you will be grouped into teams and
assigned to a group leader. The group leader will stay with
each team throughout the day for assistance. You must
complete all stations to receive credit for the field trip.
1. Knots
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Single bowline
Double bowline
Mule (Leader Tie Off)
Bachman
Clove hitch
6. Girth hitch
8. Standing Carabiner-Ice Axe and Boot-Axe
Will be demonstrated and used.
9. Navigation
You will apply fundamentals learned at the lecture and first
field trip.
10. Ten Essentials
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
Prusik
Figure eight rewoven
Figure eight loop
Water
Grapevine
12. Munter hitch
Your ten essentials will be checked. If your instructor has
comments on your minimum items, consider his or her
advice carefully; your life may some day depend on it.
***********************************************
2. Weight Drop
Special Notes:
Follow the advice and directions of the instructor. Lack of
attention may cause injury.
You will be required to tie onto the climbing rope at the
appropriate stations; do not clip onto rope with a carabiner.
There will be no specific lunch break. Eat as your individual
You will be introduced to one of the fundamental techniques schedule permits.
of "climbing up a rope" here. You will be on your own on
You will stay with your assigned group and leader unless
this one, except for your station leader who will check to
changes are made by the field trip leader.
make sure you are hooked up correctly and safely.
3. Prusik Station
4. Sitting Hip Belay Station
Sitting Hip will be demonstrated and practiced. Review
and practice belay signals learned at the first field trip.
Leader tie-off will be demonstrated.
Do not invite your children, pets, friends, or
relatives to this field trip. This field trip is for
students only.
5. Fixed Line & Leader Tie Off Station
Do not litter the park and please pick up any litter you see.
Will be demonstrated and used.
Ask questions: You're here to learn.
6. Mechanical Belay Devices & Munter Hitch
Will be demonstrated and used.
7. Rappel Setup and Backup
Will be demonstrated and explained.
20
THE SITTING HIP BELAY
The belayer should connect to the
main anchor with the climbing rope
by taking a length of rope directly
from his/her harness and tying a
clove hitch into the locking carabiner
clipped into the main anchor.
The clove hitch allows the quick removal
of any slack between the climber and
the anchor and is therefore preferred by
the Olympia Branch.
It is imperative that the
belayer's braking hand
always be opposite
to the side on the main
anchor when using a sitting
hip belay.
This will reduce the twisting
motion when holding a fall.
A guide carabiner is placed on
the harness (gate down and out),
to help maintain rope. The
climbing rope is then clipped
thru it. Be certain there is
minimal slack between your
anchor and your belay position,
otherwise, unwanted movement
may occur when holding a fall.
When sitting, face the direction of
fall. Take the climbing
rope coming from the climber
and pass it under your seat.
21
Two good anchors
should always be used.
One anchor should
be used only if it is
absolutely bombproof
(e.g. a large tree).
22
Snow Travel and Self Arrest
DATE:
TIME:
DURATION:
PLACE:
EQUIPMENT REQUIRED:
(Intro to Climbing)
REVIEW:
IMPORTANT:
See field trip schedule
TBA
1 day
Mt. Rainier
See Equipment Checklist plus:
USGS Mt. Rainier East map
Hero loop for S.C.I.A. Belay
Chapters 5, 6, 7, 9, 10, and 16
All cars must carry chains and a shovel.
Practice and Objectives



Learn individual and team ice axe arrests
Practice snow belay and anchor techniques
Practice snow travel
Critical Skills for Field Trips are Boxed
1. Snow Travel
a. rest step
b. step kicking
c. ice axe carry
3. Sitting Hip Belay
d. roped travel on snow
e. switchbacking
Your instructor will explain and demonstrate a proper
belay stance for the sitting hip belay. Review Freedom of
the Hills for the sitting hip belay.
2. Self Arrest Practice
4. Snow Belays
Your instructor will fully explain and demonstrate all ice
axe arrest positions. Each of you must successfully perform
an arrest in each position to receive student credit. Your
instructor will demonstrate and then you will practice arrest
positions in the following sequence:
Your instructor will explain and demonstrate how to prepare
a proper belay stance for the boot-axe and standing
carabiner-ice axe belays. These belays are illustrated on
page 22.
a. feet first, face down
b. feet first, face up
Your instructor or the field trip leader will demonstrate
the use of snow flukes, pickets, the dead man, bollards and
your ice axe as snow anchors. You will practice climbing on
a fixed line using the prusik.
c. head first, face down
d. head first, face up
Proficiency All Knots
We will begin each new position at slow speed; don't be
afraid to ask your instructor to hold you on the slope at the
start if this seems to help. Ask your instructor to show you
again before you try a position you're not sure about. If you
have difficulty with a certain position, be sure to let your
instructor know.
5. Snow Anchors and Fixed Line
6. Descending
a. Glissades (standing/sitting)
b. Descending downhill in the uphill tracks
c. Descending downhill using plunge step
Directions to Paradise, Mt. Rainier National
Park
From Olympia, drive through Yelm to McKenna. Turn
right (Highway702) and drive about 9 miles to a stop sign
at Highway7. Turn right (toward La Grande) or go
straight (through Eatonville).The roads are well signed
from here. Pass through Elbe, Ashford, the park entrance,
Longmire, and up to Paradise.Allow2-1/2 hours from
Olympia. (Approximately 170 miles round trip from
Olympia.)
\
23
Snow Camp
(Glacier Section)
DATE:
TIME:
DURATION:
PLACE:
EQUIPMENTREQUIRED:
Optional
REVIEW:
IMPORTANT:
See field trip schedule
TBA
2 days, overnight
TBA
See Equipment Checklist plus: USGS Mt. Rainier East map & Compass
Extra candles and aluminum foil, Rubber gloves
Chapters 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 16,17, 26, and 27
All cars must carry chains and a shovel. All snow shelters will be broken
in prior to leaving
This 2-day field trip has
several objectives
1. Learn the basics of snow survival: manage as now camp, build a
snow shelter and spend the night in or on snow.
2. Learn to identify avalanche terrain & conditions.
3. Learn crevasse rescue techniques, practice ice axe arrest, snow
belays and anchor techniques.
4. Learn to prepare for glacier climb, rising before dawn, roping up,
roped travel with crampons.
Snow Survival
Your instructor will check your equipment, accompany
you to the practice area and supervise you throughout
the weekend. You will need a change of warm and dry
clothes to put on after digging your snow shelter and
after snow practice both of which are very wet work.
You will not be allowed to return to your cars Saturday,
so plan on packing all your gear with you to camp. Any
student not completely and properly equipped will not
be permitted to participate.
Questions? Call the leader.
Remember, sunburn and snow blindness can occur
even if the sky is cloudy. So be safe and apply
sunscreen.
Water supply will consist of melted snow and what each
of you carries. Following instruction at the camp area,
you will construct your snow shelter. A shovel suitable
for digging a snow shelter, a piece of plastic for snow
removal, rubber gloves and a waterproof rain suit will
make digging the shelter a pleasurable experience
rather than an ordeal. Your shelter is where you will be
sleeping. Your instructor will be close at hand to assist
in your shelter making, explain construction methods,
and answer any questions you may have. Two types of
snow shelters - a snow cave and a ranger trench - are
illustrated on the following pages.
The first person starts by digging a rectangular entrance
measuring about 18 inches wide by 5 feet (chest) high,
See Freedom 8 p44-55
extending about 3 feet into the bank (figure 1). At that
For many years, the "standard" snow cave has been
described in detail, accompanied by phrases like "allow point, a waist-high platform is dug, about 4 feet wide
and centered on the entrance. This is developed into an
at least 3 hours for construction," "prepare to become
18-inch high, 4-foot wide opening extending into the
soaked, it's a wet job, "and "it's hardly an emergency
shelter, rather a major snow excavation job!" It does not bank. It is through this rectangular opening that snow
from the enlargement process will pass, eliminating the
have to be this way. Described below is a quicker
alternative. In selecting the construction site, it is
Building a Snow Cave
preferable to find a steep
bank, the steeper the bank,
the easier the construction.
(On flat terrain or
extremely hard snow, as
on a glacier, alternate
methods are better.) The
cave is begun part way up
the bank so snow can be
removed downhill.
Generally, construction is
easier with two people.
need for a second person
to haul snow. The second
person can be cutting or
forming blocks or balls of
snow to later seal the front
portion of the opening.
Continue to dig, expanding
the room in all directions
except down (figure 2).
Remove the snow through
the rectangle.
24
The waist high platform becomes the floor of the cave.
After excavating everything within easy reach, extend the
entrance about 2 feet into the floor area and about 1 foot
down (figure 3). Enter the partially constructed shelter, being
able to almost stand. Continue to excavate, expanding the
cave moderately in all directions so that the overall inside
dimensions are about 7 feet long, 5 feet wide, and 3-1/2 feet
high or more.
Once inside, the fun of adapting the shelter begins. A
waterproof ground sheet and an ensolite pad, placed in a
slightly depressed flat area, will prevent slipping while
sleeping. A small candle provides a warm glow. Small
alcoves can be dug in the walls for storing odds and ends
like pack, boots, digging utensils, and stove. Sticks poked
into the walls are good coat hangers. Refinements in
cooking, sleeping and entrance areas complete the steps in
preparing a comfortable shelter.
When the interior nears completion, one person fills in the
horizontal slot with snow blocks previously constructed or
cut from the interior (figure 4). One large block or two
smaller ones leaning against each other are generally
sufficient to close the upper half of the entrance tunnel. After
caulking any remaining holes, the shelter is done (figure 5).
It is recommended that those wanting to try this technique
follow the dimensions very closely the first time. It is best not
to dig the entrance too far into the bank, but only far enough
to be able to enter into a solidly roofed room. However, the
depth of the snow, the slope and various terrain features
may dictate modifications and necessary adaptations. Snow
caves can provide comfortable and practical winter shelters,
eliminating the need for a tent. They are not complicated to
construct and allow the builders an opportunity to improvise
while developing their burrowing skills.
If time permits, dig the entrance down to facilitate easy
access. However, the sleeping platform should be above the
top of the entrance to trap warm air.
With the floor higher than entrance level, warm air can be
trapped within the cave, heating to 35 ½ F or more from
body heat with an assist from a small candle. The roof
structure is important: the dome shape gives greater
strength and when smoothed carefully, melting water will
flow down the walls, instead of dripping on the occupants.
Once the cave is dug, a ventilation hole must be poked
through the outside for cooking fume exhaust. The waisthigh platform becomes the floor of the cave.
1
25
Ranger Trench
The ranger trench is a glorified version of a classic snow shelter which has been described as a "coffin,"
"grave" and probably a half dozen other names.
One of the main advantages of the trench is its simplicity. The normal tools for snow shelter construction a few shovels and a couple of saws - are all that is needed for construction.
A ranger trench is simply a deep ditch with an A-frame roof and triangular-shaped cross section, wide
end down. It starts 3 to 4 feet across and widens as it goes down. The roof blocks are shaped from the
snow removed to make the trench.
26
Snow Camp (continued)
(Glacier Section)
Avalanche Awareness
Practice and Objectives
Learn to identify avalanche terrain and conditions.
Dig a snow pit
See Chapter 16 Freedom 8 p356-365
Avalanches are a danger to anyone traveling in the backcountry. At this field trip you will learn to
recognize the snow and weather conditions that precede avalanches, the kinds of terrain where they occur,
and the signs of past avalanche activity. You will learn which areas provide the most safety and which
must be avoided. You will learn techniques for crossing a questionable slope and what to do if you're
caught. You will have the opportunity to examine a snow pit.
The knowledge and experience gained at this field trip will help you to avoid being caught in a slide, and
to exercise certain precautions in order that you will be able to continue your outdoor activities safely.
27
Snow Camp (continued)
(Glacier Section)
Critical Skills are Boxed
Snow Skills
Snow and Roped Travel
Practice and Objectives
Practice and objectives
Practice snow travel while roped
Practice team ice axe arrest
Practice individual ice axe arrests
Practice snow belay and anchor techniques
Observe pulley system setup for Crevasse Rescue
Snow Travel
Carrying ice axe
Rest step
Plunge step
Switchback
Walking with crampons
We hope you will find these exercises enjoyable and
valuable in building confidence and practicing a variety
of techniques for use on snow climbs.
1. Self Arrest Practice
Roped Travel
This will be a review of ice axe practice, concentrating
on:
Self arrests (at least two successful in each position)
Feet first, face up
Feet first, face down
Head first, face down Head first, face up
With pack on
Simulate arrest with crampons
Pre-dawn with crampons
Team ice axe arrest
Team arrests
Your instructor will demonstrate the various techniques
and then will ask that you work energetically to get the
most benefit and enjoyment as possible.
Be sure to take sharp and breakable items out of packs
since you will be arresting with, as well as without,
packs.
2. Knots
Tie &know how they are used.
3. Belays
Sitting hip
Boot axe
Standing carabiner ice axe
Belay device
4. Anchors
Several
28
Rock Fundamentals
DATE:
TIME:
DURATION:
PLACE:
EQUIPMENT REQUIRED:
REVIEW:
(Rock Section)
See field trip schedule
TBA
1 day
TBA
See Equipment Checklist plus:
Lunch and liquid
Mountaineering boots, no rock shoes
Chapter 9, 10, 11, and 13
KNOTS AND BELAYS ARE CRITICAL SKILLS AND WILL BE EVALUATED THROUGHOUT THE DAY
Practice and Objectives
Learn and practice basic rock climbing skills
including friction, crack, face and traverse moves
Learn and practice mechanical rappel techniques
Practice belay techniques and rope handling
Practice navigation skills
General Instructions
You will work in pairs assigned by the field trip leader,
rotating at your own speed. Take your pack and
equipment with you at all times. There is no scheduled
Rappel Station
At this field trip, you will rappel using the carabiner
brake method. This is illustrated below. A variety of
mechanical devices for belays and rappels will also be
demonstrated. Review "Rappelling" in Freedom of the
Hills and your notes from the lecture. Rappelling
precautions are also outlined in this section.
Directions
To be provided
lunch break, eat lunch and snacks as time allows Climbers
and belayers will wear helmets. All belays will be anchored
and belayers will use leather gloves. Use correct signals
including names. Climbers should tie into harness with a
figure eight. Make sure that instructors fill out your field trip
book after you complete each station. Turn in the field trip
book and check out with field trip leader at the end of the
field trip. Do not leave until you have been dismissed.
29
Rock I
(Rock Section)
DATE:
TIME:
DURATION:
PLACE:
MAP:
EQUIPMENT REQUIRED:
See field trip schedule
TBA
Approximately 8 hours
McCleary Cliffs, near Lake Cushman
Lake Cushman Custom Correct
See Equipment Checklist plus:
Lunch and liquid, Overnight gear & food if you plan to stay overnight
REVIEW:
Chapter 5,6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 25, and appendix A
KNOTS AND BELAYS ARE CRITICAL SKILLS AND WILL BE EVALUATED THROUGHOUT THE DAY
Practice and Objectives:
Practice basic rock climbing skills
Work on anchor and belay techniques and rope
handling
Practice rappel techniques with friction devices
4. Belaying (including stance and proper aim of belay)
a. proper signals (use partner's name)
b. rope handling
c. anchor placement and setup
1. Climbing Techniques (learn to trust your boots)
a. climb with your eyes
b. 3-point suspension- practice keeping hands
below eye level
c. weight over your feet
d. rhythm, climb smoothly
2. Rappelling(with top-rope belay)
a. anchor setup
c. perpendicular to rock face
b. carabiner brake
d. "face" and "open-book"
setup
rappels
5. Rock Climbing
a. slab
b. face
c. crack
3. Rappel Backup
a. pulling on rope
b. top belay
7. Knots
All of them
c. prusik
d. autoblock
6. Climbing Holds
a. friction
b. jam
c. undercling
d. layback
d. layback
e. chimney
e. down pressure
f. other counter pressure
g. testing holds
h. use of small holds
From Olympia, take Highway 101 north past Shelton to Hoodsport and turn left on the Lake Cushman Road.
About 9.5 miles from Hoodsport, turn left toward the Stair-case area. Look for a parking area about 4 miles
past this junction. If you see the end of the lake, you have gone too far.
30
Welcome to McCleary Cliffs
This handout is a brief summary of the material to be
covered at Rock I and Rock II. At Rock I and II, you will
practice basic rock climbing techniques. You will apply
fundamentals learned at lectures, Basic Techniques, Belay
and Rock Fundamentals practices in actual rock climbing.
You have a good opportunity to test your climbing abilities to
their limits under controlled conditions. By the end of the
practice you will not only have acquired new skills, but, just
as important, you will have matured your climbing judgment
by learning more about your capabilities.
At this practice you will become acquainted with one of the
more serious hazards (objective hazards) of mountain
climbing: Rock Fall. As a safety measure, you will be
required to wear a helmet at all times at this practice.
Whether dislodged by yourself, a fellow climber, or by natural
forces, if you see or hear a falling rock, you should
immediately shout a loud warning, ROCK! Remember to
repeatedly shout a warning regardless of the possibility that
someone may be below you.
done with anchored overhead belays. Pay strict attention to
the climber, rope, and belaying responsibilities. Guard
against letting your mind wander when you are belaying.
Keep your braking hand in proper position at all times and
use gloves while belaying.
During roped climbing you and your rope partner will
alternate as climber and belayer. When you start climbing on
the rock, let your belayer know what you are up to using the
proper signals. Pitches should be climbed both up and down;
neglecting to learn to climb down will leave a serious gap in
your training. Start with easier pitches at first and, as your
ability and confidence grows, seek out your climbing limits by
moving onto the more difficult holds. Remember the
principles of balanced climbing outlined above.
Lunch will be taken at a time when most convenient,
probably when you are waiting for other climbers to finish
with a practice pitch so you may use it. Be sure to check
clothing and pack for ticks.
If a warning of "ROCK" is called from above, look up and All rappels will be done with overhead belays. Review
locate the rock. If necessary, you can dodge the rock or get rappelling in Freedom of the Hills and the following
behind any projection at hand, being sure to relay the rappelling precautions:
warning to other climbers. Remember: Although it may at
Make sure the anchor is sound.
first appear that the rock will miss hitting you, the rock may
When a good anchor cannot be found and you are forced
bounce and split into pieces which may abruptly change their
to
descend on a poor one, use a belay and move
direction of fall. If you should dislodge a rock, do not wait to
cautiously without jerking.
see whether it is going to roll far enough to hit someone.
Make sure there are no tangles in the rope length before
Shout "ROCK” immediately!
rappelling.
Tie a large knot in the end of the rappel rope or ropes to
The best solution to the rock fall problem is for each and
prevent rappelling off the end. More safety can be
every climber to practice an extreme form of self-discipline to
achieved by putting a carabiner through a figure eight
avoid dislodging rock. This discipline should be practiced 100
knot.
percent of the time, whether on the trail, rock climbing, or
Never let go of the rope with the braking hand, no matter
scrambling. The rewards in the sport of climbing are primarily
what happens.
of a personal nature for the greatest majority of climbers.
Make sure that your clothing (and long hair) is tucked in
One of these rewards should be the personal pride you take
to avoid jamming in the carabiner system. Carry a knife in
in your ability to climb through an area where loose rock is
an accessible place.
present without causing a rock fall, even though other
Look where you are going.
climbers may not be below you. You will find that you can
increase your rock climbing skills at a faster
Make sure your rappel line reaches the bottom of the
rate if you make up your mind early to avoid coming into
pitch, or that it stops at a spot (ledge, etc.) where you can
contact with loose rock. Avoiding loose rock most often
reset the rappel if necessary. Obviously, it is not good
forces the climber on to more challenging, but also more
practice to reach the end of your rappel rope and find,
rewarding, climbing routes and holds. A final, more sober
while you are hanging there, that there is no way to get
incentive to preventing rock fall is the thought that a rock you
onto the rock.
dislodge may cause a serious, possibly fatal, injury to a
Always be sure of how much rope you have left.
fellow climber.
Rappelling is a fast, safe method of descending pitches that
Each team and their instructor will proceed through the
otherwise would be difficult to climb down. Its safety depends
activities of the day as a group and will be checked out at the on your ability to set up a rappel properly and then execute
end of the day as a group, so stay together. Group leaders sound rappelling technique.
will direct teams to available and permissible pitches for
practice; your cooperation is requested.
There are many possible pitfalls in the rappel system .Learn
what they are and how to avoid them. Study what constitutes
Remember not to step on the climbing rope. It is your lifeline a sound anchor, and, on climbs, experiment setting up
and should be treated with respect.
different types of anchors by improvising with what nature
offers. Learn what knots mayor may not be used and
Your instructor will have you set up a belay position and practice them.
discuss proper belaying techniques. All climbing will be
31
Rock II
DATE:
TIME:
DURATION:
PLACE:
EQUIPMENT REQUIRED:
REVIEW:
(Rock Section)
See field trip schedule
TBA
All day. Approximately 8 hours
McCleary Cliffs, Lake Cushman
Same as Rock I
Same as Rock I
Today's practice is a continuation of Rock I. During the day, you will have the opportunity to refine
your climbing techniques and develop the habits of a safe and confident climber. You are encouraged
to try some of the more challenging routes at McCleary Cliffs.
Belaying and Knots are Critical Skills
32
Glacier Travel
DATE:
TIME:
DURATION:
PLACE:
EQUIPMENT REQUIRED:
REVIEW
(Glacier Section)
See field trip schedule
TBA
All day. Approximately 10 hours
Mt. Rainier (See Snow 1 for map)
See Equipment Checklist plus:
USGS Mt. Rainier East map
Chapters 9, 10, 16, 17, and 22
Belaying and Knots are Critical Skills
Practice and Objectives
Learn and practice glacier travel techniques
Learn and practice crevasse rescue methods
Practice snow belays
Practice snow anchors
Practice roped travel
Practice self arrest
Students will be formed into groups and assigned to an
instructor and an assistant instructor. Instructors will
check your equipment before starting out.
Before stepping onto the glacier, your instructors will
remind you about glacier travel, rope etiquette,
cramponing, ice axe handling (including crevasse
probing), and route finding. You will put on a seat
harness, chest harness, prusiks and crampons, and will
rope up.
Once each rope team has set up their crevasse rescue
practice area, each team must demonstrate their
ability with the z-pulley pulley rescue method. Each
student will be "rescued" and lead a rescue as time
permits.
"Victims" are cautioned to dress warmly no matter
what the surface temperature might be. Also,
remember that a certain amount of snow will
probably be showered down on you by the ropes.
Wear your hard hat!
You will also be traveling in rope teams to practice
the different climbing formations used for glacier
travel before returning to the parking lot.
Watch those crampons on the climbing rope!
The procedures for setting up the z-pulley and single
pulley systems for crevasse rescue are shown in
Chapter 17 Freedom of the Hills 8th edition.
33
Study Chapter 17 Freedom of the Hills 8th Edition for Crevasse Rescue
and Glacier Travel
34
GLOSSARY OF TECHNICAL MOUNTAINEERING TERMS
Most of the following definitions are from Fred Beckey's
Cascade Alpine Guide, Volume 1.
GROOVE: A very shallow inside corner, often smooth, generally
flared.
AID CLIMBING: Involves the use of any artificial means of
ascent, not relying totally on hands and feet. (This includes
any tension from such aids as knotted slings, a lasso, or a
shoulder stand.)
GULLY: A depression grooving a mountainside.
ARETE, NOSE, PILLAR, AND BUTTRESS: Often refer to
the same type of cornering formation on a mountain. Generally an
arete is a major edge, not necessarily steep in profile. A
nose is almost always quite steep. A pillar is usually rounded
and sharply defined, and is generally steep. A buttress is a
major formation on a peak, generally implied to be broader
than an arete.
BERGSCHRUND (schrund): A large crevasse formed by
tension where flowing ice of a glacier fractures away from a
nearly stagnant ice slope or headwall above.
BULGE: The smallest steepening of the angle of a face.
CHUTE: A depression steeper than a gully. See also couloir.
CIRQUE: A deep, steep-walled amphitheater-like recess in a
mountain; caused by glacial erosion.
COL: A steep high pass, smaller than a saddle; a saddle is a
more rounded ridge depression.
COULOIR: A deep chute. Likely to have some snow or ice.
Terms for depressions are used in this order of decreasing
size: canyon, gully, couloir, chute, chimney, crack.
DIHEDRAL: An inside corner, open book or diedre; a
depression generally 90 degrees or more on its facings, as a
junction of two rock planes. An angular slab lying against a
flat wall may form a left-facing or right-facing open book.
FACE: A steep mountainside, generally over 30 degrees if
mixed snow, ice, and rock; and over 45 degrees if rock.
FIRN: A consolidated granular transition of snow not yet
changed to glacier ice. The word "firn" refers only to the
substance of the material itself. It has survived at least one
season of ablation. Its density may require cramponing in
climbing situations.
FREE CLIMBING: Means that no direct support from piton,
stirrup, loop, rope, or carabiner is used; any such pieces of
equipment may be used for safety only. Free climbing may be
roped or unroped.
FRIABLE: Easily crumbled rock.
HEADWALL: Where the slope or face of a mountain, cirque,
or glacier steepens dramatically in angle; it is often concave
in shape.
ICEFALL: A steep reach of glacier with a chaotic crevassed
surface and rapid flow rate.
JAM CRACK: A crack varying from fingertip size to room for
a leg; it is usually climbed by wedging techniques.
LEDGE or RAMP: Generally runs some distance; a ramp is
an ascending ledge.
MOAT: The space between snow/ice and a rock wall. It can be
expected to widen as the summer progresses.
NEVE: A French word translated "consolidated, granular
snow in the state of transition to glacier ice:' Neve refers to
the area covered by perennial snow or firn, lying entirely
within a glacier's accumulation zone. The line (actually
neve-line-zone) which equates to the lower elevation limit
of the retained winter snowpack. At the end of the annual
melt season it separates the neve area from the bare ice area
of a glacier. In the accumulation area above, annual snowfall
exceeds annual melting.
NOTCH: Generally, a narrow col or sharp break in a ridge.
OUTSIDE CORNER: A minor edge on a rock face, usually
briefer and of less stature than a nose or rib.
OVERHANG: A section of wall above the angle of 90 degrees.
Termed ceiling or roof when nearly 180 degrees.
PITCH: A section of the climb between belays; length can
vary from a short distance to the full length of the rope; most
pitches vary from 80 to 130 feet. Sometimes called a lead.
PLATFORM: A level rock area, short in length.
SERAC: A block tower or pinnacle of ice or firn formed
by the intersection of crevasses, or found standing in ice
cascades.
SLOPE: A mountainside gender than a face.
SPIRE,TOWER,NEEDLE: In general, a spire is smaller
than a peak or mountain (exceptions: The Bugaboos, Twin
Spires), but larger than a tower. A needle is generally a
single thin block.
GLACIER ICE: Clear and relatively unaerated dense glacier ice
characterizes the basal parts of glaciers. Usually termed blue ice
when found of this density on alpine walls. Below the neve line the
main material of the glacier is bubbly glacier ice.
I
35
NOTES
36
2015 Basic Climbing Graduation Application
Olympia Mountaineers
When all requirements of the Basic Climbing Course have been completed, fill out and mail this form to the
Basic Records Course Chair:
Bob Kerenan
431 E. Eastlake
Shelton, WA 98584
keranen@hcc.net
This form must be received by October 1, 2015 if you would like to receive your certificate at the Annual
Olympia Mountaineers Banquet.
Name:______________________________________________________________________
(as you would like it to appear on the certificate
Address:____________________________________________________________________
I am applying to the Climbing Committee for graduation. I have met the following requirements:
3. Attended all lectures.
4. Passed the written examination.
5. Completed all field trips.
6. Completed the following experience climbs: (Give name of climb, type (C, A, R, or G), date, and leader's
name.)
____________________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________________
7. I hold a current Mountaineering Oriented First Aid (MOFA) card...
Check one of the following:
_____ I previously submitted a copy of the card to the Committee.
_____ I am attaching a copy of the card.
8. Proof of Stewardship Requirement.
_________________
(Date)
___________________________________________________
(Signature)
37
38
Application for 2015 Basic Climbing Course Extension
Although students have two years to complete course requirements, The Climbing Committee encourages students
to complete all lectures and field trips in the first year.
This extension form must be completed and sent to the Climbing Committee. The information on the form is to
make sure that the committee is current on what you need to complete the course and to make sure you are included
in announcements concerning next year’s class and climbs being offered.
Name: ______________________________________________
Date: __________________________
Street/Box: __________________________________________
Phone: _________________________
City/State/Zip: _______________________________________
E-mail: ________________________
Who is your mentor? ______________________________________________________________________
Describe the course requirement you missed: ___________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________________
Describe the reason for missing:______________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________________
What climbs, if any, have you done? Name the climbs completed, type of climb, date, route, and leader name.
________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________________
If an extension form is not received by the Climbing Committee you may not receive notification of time and
location of Lectures and Field Trips.
Return this form to:
Bob Keranen
431 E. Eastlake
Shelton, WA 98584
keranen@hcc.net
39
40
Important!
 Climbing
 Scrambling
Take this form to your Stewardship Project
Have the Project Leader/Contact sign the form
Keep the form and submit with your graduation application
Stewardship Project Report
Student Name
Date
Location
Agency/Facility
Hours of Service
 Trail Maintenance
 Habitat Restoration
 Park Cleanup
 Facility Repair
 Writing/Calling
 Info Display
 Teaching
 Learning
Type of Project Briefly describe
Project Authority
Project Leader/Contact
Name
Address
Phone
e-mail
Signature
Important
Contacts
Graduation Application or More Information
Climbing Student send to:
Return Completed
Report with
Graduation
Application to
Need more
information?
Scrambling Student send to:
Tom Eckhout
Bob Keranen
431 E. Eastlake
Shelton, WA 98584
keranen@hcc.net
Contact: Jim French
E-mail: jimfrenchwa@comcast.net
41
Phone: (360) 754-6551
Why do the Climbing and Scrambling Courses
include a Stewardship Requirement?
Our public lands need our support. The Mountaineers is
one of the nation’s oldest and most highly regarded
advocates for the preservation of our federal and state
lands for human powered travel. For nearly a century,
the Mountaineers have championed for protection and
recreation access to public lands, testified in support of
wilderness, parks and forests and taken tools in hand to
build trails and restore natural habitat. The founding
principles of the Mountaineers: Explore, Study, Preserve,
and Enjoy the Natural Beauty of the Outdoors
demonstrate the importance of balancing personal
enjoying of our beautiful Pacific Northwest with the
responsibility for preservation.
Trail maintenance at Tolmie State Park
Each year the Olympia Branch trains nearly 200 students in backcountry travel, requiring a minimum of 3
trips and often as many as 10 field trips to parks, forests and wilderness area. When class trips are
combined with the outings of over 700 members, the Olympia Branch accounts for hundreds of
hiking/climbing days on front country and backcountry trails. Public land managing agencies truly need
our help to protect and restoring our natural environment, the same outdoor environment that makes
courses and adventures possible. You may be surprised. Students find stewardship projects enjoyable.
What kinds of projects qualify for the Stewardship Requirement?
Stewardship is community service with a conservation orientation. These projects usually occur on
federal, state or local public lands to preserve or restore our natural resources such as trail maintenance
and habitat restoration. Other projects include; letter writing to support a natural resource campaign or to
inform legislators of conservation issues, staffing an environmental booth, conducting wildlife inventories
or salmon surveys, and cleaning up or restoring our parks. The time required for a project should be
equivalent to a day trip.
How do I find and
sign up for a
Stewardship Project that interests
me?
Habitat restoration at Nisqually
National Wildlife Refuge
The Olympia Branch’s Conservation Committee publishes a
list of local projects and will distribute the list during the
course lectures. The Mountaineers’ monthly Go Guide, and
the club web site at www.mountaineers.org publish local
and regional projects offered by all branches. Just contact
the project leader at least one week prior to the project.
The variety of projects requires different equipment, skills
and physical stamina. You’re sure to find a project that’s
educational, enjoyable and personally rewarding.
Must I participate in an Olympia Branch Project?
No. Any Stewardship Project sponsored by any organization will suffice. We encourage students to join
in or even organize projects that meet their individual interests.
42
Basic Climbing Course Equipment List
Technical Climbing Equipment Required for Course
Commercial seat harness
Leather Belay Gloves – rough cowhide
1” tubular nylon webbing (all lengths untied)
a) 8 ft. of one color for chest harness
b) 10 ft. of second color for double sling/runner
c) Two 6ft. pieces third color for slings
d) 4 ft. for Hero loop fourth color if possible
48” sewn nylon sling (For extended rappel*)
5 or 6mm Perlon
a) 8 ft. for Leader Tie Off
b) 4 ft. for Auto Block
Belay device ATC or similar
Carabiners:
a) 6 standard: (no Nano/Mini) the carabiner brake
works best with oval or “D” carabiners
b) 3 locking: one must be a pearabiner (large pear
shaped carabiner) for Münter hitch, the other
two should be small locking biners.
Climbing Helmet, UIAA approved
Ice Axe
Crampons
Rescue Pulley
Snow Wands
Needed By
Basic Skills FT1
Basic Skills FT 1
Basic Skills FT 1
"
"
Belay Practice FT 2
Belay Practice FT 2
Basic Skills FT 1
Belay Practice FT 2
Basic Skills FT 1
Basic Skills FT 1
Basic Skills FT 1
Belay Practice FT 2
Belay Practice FT 2
Snow Camp FT 4
"
Snow Camp FT 4
* Check Mountaineers Website at www.mountaineers.org/blog/extended-rappel-andupdated-belay-techniques for explanation and video of this technique.
Revised Jan. 20, 2015
Field Trip Signup Online:
Go to www.mountaineers.org and log on, your default login name is your Mountaineers id
number, which is about 6-digits long and should be in your new member packet. If for some
reason you don’t know your number let me know and I'll dig up your membership number. Your
default password is the first and last initials of your name plus your membership number.
Example: Bob Keranen with membership id of 123456 would be:
Login name: 123456
Password: bk123456
After logging on click on “Your Account” at the top of the page and verify your name, email
address, etc. for spelling errors. In addition to verifying your account info, I'd like you to
register for the Basic Skills Workshop on Feb. 16.
Search to it by using the menu strip, selecting Connect > Activities by Branch > Olympia.
Be sure to sign up for the Basic Climbing Course – Olympia/Basic Skills Workshop with a
type of Climb and my name as the leader.
Bob Keranen