Installation and Users Instructions
MORSØ
4500 Series
4600 Series
5000 Series
6000 Series
MORSØ JERNSTØBERI A/S - DK-7900 NYKØBING MORS
E-mail: stoves@morsoe.com - Website: www.morsoe.com
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We congratulate your choice of a morsø stove. Morsø has been producing some of the
world's best stoves since 1853. If you follow
this installation- and operating instruction
carefully, we can guarantee you many years
of warmth and pleasure.
Optional accessories
Morsø can offer you a wide range of stoves, and various accessories are available such as boilers,
coal shovels, and coal inserts. Contact your Morsø dealer for more information on this compre­
hensive range of accessories.
CONTENTS:
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1.0
Installation of Morsø stove
1.1
Installation of your Morsø stove
1.2
Building regulations
1.3
The chimney sweep
1.4
Positioning the stove/distance regulations
1.5
The chimney
1.6
Flue connection
1.7
Connection to brick chimney
1.8
Connection to steel chimney
Page
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3
3
3
4
4
4
4
2.0
Loading Procedure
2.1
Heating with wood
2.2
Lighting and intervals
2.3
Other fuels
2.4
Draught conditions
6
7
8
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3.0
Maintaining stove, flue and chimney
3.1
Exterior maintenance
3.2
Internal maintenance
3.3
Cleaning the stove
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1.0 Installation of Morsø stove
1.1 Installation of your Morsø stove
The stove is removed from the wooden pallet and carefully placed centrally on the base. It is
recommended that two people do this job to prevent damaging the stove.
Assembling instructions are enclosed in the 4600 and 6000 stove series.
1.2 Building regulations
Particular attention should be paid to current building regulations regarding installation of stoves,
connection to a chimney and installation of chimneys. Ask your stove supplier or installer for
advice. You and he together are responsible for observing the relevant regulations. However, it is
you, your technical consultant or craftsman who are responsible for observing the rules.
The most important points relating to the installation of your Morsø stove are covered in the
following paragraphs.
1.3 The chimney sweep
It is sensible to locate a local chimney sweep, who will be able to advise on a cleaning regime
for your flue system. He will perhaps ask you some details of your installation, but should in any
case be made aware of the types of fuel you intend to burn. This will have some bearing on the
frequency of his visits.
1.4 Positioning the stove/distance regulations
Distance to wall
When the stove is positioned near combustible materials, observe all current national and local
building regulations with regard to distancing.
To facilitate heat circulation and external cleaning, a minimum distance of 10-15 cm is recom­
mended, even from non-combustible materials such as masonry. Wall paper on a masonry wall
may possibly discolour or scorch at this minimum distance, so be prepared to leave a larger gap.
On the floor
If the stove is placed on a combustible floor, a non-combustible layer should cover the floor bene­
ath the stove and in an area of at least 30 cm in front of the door and at least 15 cm on each side
of the opening. Naturally, you must ensure that the floor in this base area can carry the weight of
the stove at least. NOTE that the main body of the flue system must be independently secured
and must not rely on the stove itself for support.
Distance to furniture
The recommended distance to furniture is 80 cm, however, it should be considered whether
furniture or other things will dry out standing so close to the stove.
Required distance to combustible materials in front of the stove is 80 cm.
1.5 The Chimney
The stove MUST NOT be connected to a flueway that is shared with any other appliance. (Several
flueways may run up a single chimney stack; use one flueway per appliance).
The internal dimension of the flueway must not be less than 150mm diameter (or equivalent
cross-section), and for preference, should not be much larger than this. Too large a section will
tend to allow the flue gasses to chill too much, cause sluggishness or unpredictability in the
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stove's performance. If the existing flueway is large in section, fit an insulated liner. The result is
a better draft and better economy.
As a general rule, we recommend a minimum of four metres of flue above the stove in any case.
Beyond that, the flue termination point should be around one meter above the ridge of the roof
(or any other structure or tree) within a 7 metre radius. This will allow the flue gases to escape
without hindrance from wind patterns - caused by such obstacles - that may cause downdrafts. If
you suffer occasional puffs of smoke from your stove, be prepared to add extra length to the flue.
There must be cleaning access to all parts of the flueway. This may involve the installation of a
cleaning door for the main sections of chimney.
1.6 Flue connection
The stove is supplied from the factory with a flue collar mounted at the rear and a round blanking
plate in the top plate of the stove.
If you wish to use the top smoke outlet, the round steel piece in the top casing is knocked out with
small, sharp taps with a hammer and chisel (or screwdriver) held across the »bridges« holding it
in position. On the arched model, hammer from the inside.
The baffle plate can be removed from the stove by lowering the side bricks to the floor of the
firebox or removing them from the stove. The blanking plate fitted to the top plate is screwed off
and reattached to the back plate of the stove. The flue collar is centred and screwed onto the
stove top plate. Finally, the closure lid (200mm dia.) is fastened to the back of the box with two
self-tapping screws, and the stove is positioned and connected to the chimney.
1.7 Connection to a brick chimney
Unlined brick chimneys are likely to perform badly and collect dirt easily. Ask your supplier about
various lining options and their insulation quality.
Where the fluepipe off the stove meets the base of the (lined) brick chimney, it is important to
keep the flue gases moving smoothly in the right direction. Do not vent into a large void at this
location; rather form one continuous section all the way up. Use mild bends rather than sharp
angles where a change of directions is required.
1.8 Connection to steel chimney
If the chimney is led directly up through the ceiling, the chimney may be non-insulated up to 300
mm from a combustible ceiling. The chimney is sealed at the flue collar with the ceramic rope
supplied with the stove. It is important that the chimney is fitted with roof support so that it is not
the stove which carries the chimney. A heavy weight on the stove top plate can lead to cracks.
See instructions from the chimney manufacturer.
Note!
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Cleaning possibilities. Consult the chimney sweep.
If there is too much draught in the chimney, a damper can be fitted in the smoke outlet. It
must not be possible to close the damper completely and the smallest area of free flow
of the flue gas must not be less than 20 cm2 of the cross sectional area of the flue. The
damper must be easy to operate and its position easily recognisable. If there is too little
draught in the chimney, it is a good idea to install the stove with top smoke outlet thus
reducing smoke in the combustion chamber.
Any unnecessary bends should be avoided and the length of the flue should be limited
in order to avoid draught reduction.
There are special rules regarding distance for chimneys on thatched roofs.
To protect the surface, the stove should be covered in case of acid-washing of the sur­
rounding masonry.
Fresh air supply
A woodburning stove requires large quantities of air for combustion. Thus, a woodburning
stove helps to create a healthy indoor climate in a house. If the house is very tight, and
especially if there is a range hood or a ventilation system in the house, it may be neces­
sary to fit a fresh air valve in the room where the stove is installed. If not, the chimney
draught will be too poor and thus the stove will not function properly and smoke may
come out when the door is opened.
•Make sure the whole flueway can be swept (consult your stove supplier or chimney
sweep).
• Where the draft to the stove may be limited, use the top flue outlet.
• Unnecessary and sharp bends should be avoided.
•Super-long flues - more than two floors and an attic - may perform weekly at slower
running rates. Check with your supplier.
• Thatched roofs require special flue features. Consult your supplier.
• If acid-washing masonry around the stove, protect its surface with an acid-proof cover.
•A dedicated fresh air inlet may be required where the room is particularly well sealed,
or where an extractor hood or ventilation system disturbs the natural air pressure (in
such cases, opening a window or turning on the extractor may be seen to affect the
state of the fire). Such an inlet should not be on a wall that is usually subject to negative
pressure from normal wind patterns. Avoid placing the inlet directly across the room
from the stove, thus causing a cold air draft.
2.0 Methods of stoking/using your stove
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In your stove, air is led through the two valves in the door round the combustion chamber and is
added as secondary pre-heated air at the top of the flames. In principle, both valves must therefo­
re be open to the same position depending on draught conditions, fuel and heating requirement.
The stove features a detachable handle of stainless steel, a material that conducts heat very
poorly. When the handle has been removed, the stove is more childproof. At correct firing the
valves can be operated without use of gloves.
Before Firing:
The initial fires should be weak in order to cure the stove properly before starting a bigger
fire.
Setting of valves, lighting methods and intervals depend on chimney draught, wind and
weather conditions, heating requirement, fuel, etc. Thus, some time may pass before you
know the correct function of the stove under the given conditions.
Although you may use nearly all kinds of wood in your Morsø stove, you should not use
wet or unseasoned wood. Wood should be seasoned under roof for min. one year and
preferably two years with free access for wind. Wood should be split as soon as possible
after cutting if it is to dry quickly.
Never use driftwood as it is usually very saline and will thus reduce the life of stove and
chimney. Impregnated and painted wood and chip board emit toxic smoke and fumes
and should not be used either.
Logs of a diameter over 10 cm should always be split.
The logs must not be longer than they can form a plane surface over the embers with free
space at both ends. The best result is achieved with logs of approx. 25 cm and a weight
of approx. 0.5 kg positioned with the end towards the opening.
Max. log length longitudinally in the stove is 32-34 cm.
2.1 Heating with wood
Heating with wood is the cheapest method of stoking, also when you buy the wood in the forest.
You may save at least 50 per cent compared to oil heating in central heating systems, but com­
pared to electricity and gas heating it is also very economical to use wood. How much you can
save naturally depends on current prices, type of wood, etc.
Comparison between heating with wood and oil:
Type of wood (water content of 20%)
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Cubic metres per 1000 l oil
Oak7,0
Beech7,0
Ash7,2
Sycamore maple
7,5
Birch8,0
Elm8,9
Norway spruce
10,4
Silver fir
10,9
2.2 Lighting and intervals
To build up an insulating ash layer at the bottom of the stove, you should burn 1-2 kg dry kindling
wood at the first lighting.
Always leave 2-3 cm ashes at the bottom of the chamber.
1. The layer of embers will be created quickly by burning 5-10 pages of crumpled paper or two
spirit tablets under approx. 1-2 kg of fine, dry kindling wood.
2. Fully open the valves.
3. After lighting the paper/spirit tablets, the door is practically closed, but leave an opening of
about 2 cm to create a fine draft into the fire.
4. When you can see (after 5-10 min.) that the chimney is so hot that there is a fine draught
through it, the door is closed. If all pre-conditions have been met, a nice layer of embers will
have formed in the chamber after another 15-20 minutes.
5. Normal adding of logs should take place while there are still embers left. Spread the embers
at the bottom, but mainly at the front of the stove.
6. Place three logs of 0.55 kg and approx. 25 cm long over the embers in one layer with a di­
stance of approx. 1 cm between the logs.
7. When the valves are in the maximum position and the door is closed, the fresh wood will be
ignited within 2-3 min.
8. Then the valves are turned down to the desired position and optimum combustion will con­
tinue until there are only embers left.
9. New logs can be added in the same way as in 5 above.
If you wish reduced heat output, add less logs and supply less air, but remember that the most
important thing is to maintain the embers.
Reduced heat output is obtained when the logs have flared up meaning that there are no flames
from the logs because they have been transformed into glowing charcoal. Not until this moment
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can the air inlet be fully closed. If a fine layer of embers have formed over a sufficient layer of
ashes, then the stove can keep warm for a very long time.
When you want more heat, you gather the embers at the front of the stove and place kindling
wood over them, corresponding to the lighting procedure described above.
When burning wood, the shaking grate must be closed which means that the shaking
handle must be pushed in completely. In case of poor draught conditions, a little air through
the grate may ease lighting but note that this air supply may cause small soot deposits on
the bricks and the glass.
The rule for heating regulation is:
LITTLE HEAT - LITTLE WOOD - LITTLE AIR
MUCH HEAT - MUCH WOOD - MUCH AIR
When heating overnight you evade the heating rule by putting a large quantity of wood
in the stove and adding little air. In this period, the heating value of the wood is not fully
exploited, and all you do is pollute the environment. Instead you should use coke, coal
or briquettes.
When heating in the summer when consumption is low, combustion gets poor. The sto­
ve heats too much and there is a bigger risk of soot deposits in stove, flue and chimney.
If you use wet wood, a large part of the heat energy will be used to displace the water
without emitting any heat to the stove. This incomplete combustion leads to soot depo­
sits in stove, flue and chimney.
2.3 Other fuels
Your new Morsø stove is well-suited for heating with wood, but other fuels may naturally also be
used, depending on how and how much you intend to use the stove.
Brown coal and wood briquettes are suitable as supplementary fuels. They are easy to light
and ideal for overnight heating as they are long-glowing.
House Coal and Smokeless fuels are good for an extended burn.
Coal is an inherently dirty fuel and more effort will be needed to keep the stove, its door glass and
the flue system clean. It will overwhelm the cleanburning characteristics of any stove, particularly
when the fire is run at a slow rate. When added in small quantities to a bright fire of another fuel,
dirt may be kept to a minimum.
Smokeless fuels will give a good long burn and are lower in dirt content. For a good flame picture,
try fuels that are recommended for open fires. Avoid fuels with a high sulphur content.
We do not generally recommend the use of petroleum-based fuels. Their high burn temperature
may cause the premature failure of the riddling grate and other flame-path equipment.
Light solid fuel fire by adding small quantities to an established ember bed or fresh kindling fire.
Allow this first handful to catch well before adding further, modest quantities. Use plenty of air,
leaving the riddling grate open (lever pulled out) until the fire is established. Push the grate lever
partially back in once the fire is established and after a few more minutes, adjust the air valves
to suit.
Some shapes and sizes of solid fuels may benefit from the use of Morsø cast iron coal inserts,
which direct such fuels towards the grate. These pieces are available as an optional extra from
your stove supplier.
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Heating values
Fuel
Heating value
Gaseous
Non-gassing
Wood4500
*
Brown coal briquettes 5000
*
Wood briquettes
4700
*
Smokeless Fuel
7800
*
Coal7000
*
Coke 6800*
The figures mentioned are approximate figures.
2.4 Draught conditions
If smoke comes out of the stove when the door is opened, it is due to poor chimney draught.
For this type of stove, a chimney draught of min. 1.5 mm water columns is required to obtain
satisfactory combustion and prevent smoke leaks.
If in any doubt, let your stove supplier or chimney sweep check the draft in the chimney.
Draught Conditions
The chimney draught is created as a result of the difference between the high temperature
in the chimney and the more cold outside temperature. The length and insulation of the
chimney, wind and weather conditions are also crucial in order to obtain the right negative
pressure and thus the draught.
Reduced draught results when:
- The temperature difference is too small. For example, if the chimney is too poorly insulated. If the chimney is cold, it may help to set fire to a crumpled paper in the cleaning door of the chimney before lighting a fire in the stove.
- The outside temperature is too high. For example in the summer.
- It is calm.
If the chimney does not have the right height so it is sheltered by the roof and high
trees.
In these cases, the risk of down-draught is also bigger.
- False air gets into the chimney. For example through lacking joints or leaks by cleaning door or flue.
- Leaky, unused fireplaces are connected to the chimney.
- Flue and chimney are obstructed by soot due to lack of cleaning.
- The house is too airtight (see Fresh air supply)
A fine draught results when:
- There is a significant temperature difference between the chimney and the outside
air.
- When the weather is clear and windy.
- The chimney has the right height. Min. four metres above the stove and clear of ridge.
3.0 Maintaining stove, flue and chimney
3.1 Exterior maintenance
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The stove surface is painted with a heat-resistant Senotherm paint. It is best preserved if you just
vacuum it with a soft mouthpiece or wipe it with a dry, fluff-free cloth.
In time, in case of too heavy fires, the painted surface may become greyish, but the stove paint
can easily be touched up with a Morsø spray paint available from your local dealer.
3.2 Internal maintenance
Glass
At correct heating with wood there will be no, or only small, amounts of soot deposited on the
ceramic glass. If soot deposits have formed on the glass during lighting, the soot will burn off
when the fire settles down. If the glass is very sooty due to faulty operation, the soot can easily
be removed by using e.g. Morsø glass cleaner. The glass must be cold when you clean it. Avoid
using long logs pressing on the glass when the door is closed.
Reasons for sooty glass:
- Logs too wet
- Logs too big/unsplit
- Combustion temperature too low
- Too much air through grate
Internal cast-iron parts/wearing parts
Riddling grate (no. 2), baffle plate (no. 1) and coal insert (optional) are parts in direct contact
with fire and glowing fuel. Thus, they will be particularly exposed to burning through. When used
correctly, these parts will last for many years. Heavy fires will naturally accelerate the burning th­
rough. The parts mentioned are easily replaceable. The baffle plate in vermiculite can be removed
from the stove without removing the side bricks. If the baffle plate is damaged and not replaced
in time, the top plate will then be exposed to such a high temperature that it may be damaged.
Reasons for internal parts wearing too quickly
Too heavy fires: Too much air through grate
Use of too much dry wood (furniture scrapwood)
Too much soot on the baffle plate (see Cleaning)
Too many ashes in ash pan (see Ashes)
Refractory bricks
Vermiculite helps ensure a high combustion temperature and can easily stand the high temperatu­
res in the stove. It may break if it is hit vigorously with a log or similar things. Cracks in the plates
do not influence the function of the stove as long as the material remains in place.
Gaskets
In time, the gaskets in the door will wear and should be replaced when needed to avoid excessive
combustion. Use Morsø gaskets.
Note: Normal wearing parts are not covered by the Morsø guarantee. These parts include the flame-path equipment: Ash pan, riddling grate, glass, bricks, baffle and flue collar.
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The maintenance product range (spare parts, glass cleaning, paint, gaskets, etc.) is available
from your Morsø dealer.
3.3 Cleaning the stove
As a result of the chimney draught or after sweeping, an ash or soot layer will form, particularly
above the baffle plate. The ashes will have an insulating effect which may accelerate the burning
through of the baffle plate as it cannot get rid of the heat. Today, in addition to sweeping the
chimney and cleaning the flue, the chimney sweep must remove any soot from the stove.
The number of yearly sweepings/cleaning of stove and cleaning of the flue should be discussed
with the stove supplier or chimney sweep.
Ashes
With wood, maintain a 2-3 cm layer of ash on the floor of the firebox. (Riddling by pulling and
pushing the riddling lever only when you need to boost the fire).
Solid fuels work better with better with some air from beneath; the ash will therefore be riddling
through the grate on a more regular basis. There is no need to build up a layer af ash.
Empty the ash pan on a daily basis. Ash allowed to build up towards the underside of the grate
will trap heat and could cause premature failure of the grate.
Embers may stay alive in this ash for a long tme after the fire burns out. Always empty the ash
into a non-combustible container and make sure all embers are dead before further disposal.
Natural log ashes may be suitable for the garden. Ashes from processed wood may contain
chemicals that are not suitable for the garden. Solid fuel ashes should generally not be put on
the garden.
Leaving the stove for extended periods.
If the stove is to be left unused for an extended period, clean it out thoroughly and, for preference,
remove the bricks and baffle. Leave the door slightly open. Make sure that the flue does not allow
moisture to come near the stove.
All these measures should ensure that there is a slight movement of air and that the body of the
stove remains dry, right into the corners. Ash within an unfired stove can attract lingering moisture
like blotting paper. If moisture is allowed to settle within the stove, rust will form. Rust expands
as it takes a grip. This can lead to undue pressure being put on the stove joints and damage to
the stove.
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Morsø Jernstøberi A/S 723389
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