FABRICATION
and
INSTALLATION
GUIDE
Forward
CENTURA® has prepared this fabrication and
installation manual for use by persons having
professional skills.
CENTURA® intends for it to be used by
fabricators and installers of their product.
Techniques utilized are based on the latest
technology of tools and with consultation of
professionals in the solid surface industry. Our
hope is these techniques will improve your
efficiency in fabricating CENTURA® and its
related products.
The procedures described and shown are
appropriate for the applications described,
however, no warranty, expressed or implied, is
intended or given. Use of tools and products,
outside CENTURA’s, should be done so by
adhering to guidelines established by those
manufacturers.
It is the users responsibility to handle all
product, tools and related materials in a safe
manner. In addition, the user is urged to
become familiar with all Local, State and
Federal health and safety regulations.
Table of Contents
PRODUCT INFORMATION
SAFETY
FABRICATION TOOLS
SHOP FABRICATION
B.
Introducing CENTURA® Solid
Surface
Technical Data
C.
Competitive Differences
A.
B.
Safety Equipment
Material Handling
C.
Material Safety Data Sheets
A.
Saws and Blades
B.
Routers and Bits
C.
Sanders and Abrasives
D.
Clamps and Hand Tools
A.
Planning
B.
Selecting Materials
C.
Square Sheet
D.
Seaming and Bowl Setting
E.
Edge Build-up
F.
Profiling Edges
G.
Cutouts
H.
Finishing
A.
Table of Contents
INSTALLATION
A.
B.
C.
D.
E.
F.
Cabinet Preparation
Final Fitting
Cutout Preparation
Field Seams
Splashes
Inspection
ADVANCED
A.
B.
C.
D.
F.
G.
Liquid Repairs
Liquid Inlays
Coved Backslashes
CENTURA® Flex
Accent Trims
Shower Pans
Company History
CENTURA® Solid Surface is produced of the highest quality materials consisting of
polyester resin, aluminum trihydrate (ATH) and other specially formulated compounds.
The specific formulation provides CENTURA® with unique properties, such as a Class
“A” fire rating, chemical resistance, stain resistance, durable hardness and ease of
machining.
The CENTURA® product was originally introduced in 1988 after a great deal of
consultation with chemists and fabricators. This process ensured that the product
performed to the strictest standards and guidelines. A goal was set to provide the
most fabricator friendly solid surface available. This rigorous undertaking resulted in
the efficient and workable product you will be using from this day forward.
CENTURA® provides sheet materials in 31 standard colors, 100’s of custom and
rendered colors, the highest sheet efficiency possible to minimize off-fall and backs its
product by a twelve year warranty. Sheet material is only the beginning to a full line of
extraordinary products. CENTURA® offers: liquid inlay kits, liquid repair kits, liquid cove
kits, a full line of bowls, accent trims, tubs, showers and ITB’s (Integral tops with
bowls).
No matter what your needs or applications, CENTURA® has the right product at the
right price!
CENTURA® ’s ability to offer a twelve year warranty, the best warranty in the business,
is due in part to the rigorous testing the product undergoes. Couple that with the best
fabricators in the business, the combination is unbeatable.
Technical Data
Test
Test Value
Test Method
Colorfastness
Pass
ANSI Z124.3-1986
Wearability
Pass
ANSI Z124.3-1986
Cleanability
Pass
ANSI Z124.3-1986
Cigarette Burn Resistance
Pass
ANSI Z124.3-1986
Chemical Resistance
Pass
ANSI Z124.3-1986
Stain Resistance
Barcol Hardness
Flexural Strength, PSI
Flexural Modulus,PSI x 10
Dart Impact, 2lb. Dart
Fire Rating
24
60-62
8250
1.41
No Fracture
Class A, Class 1
ANSI 5.2.1
Barcol Impresser
ASTM D-790
ASTM D-790
30” Drop
ASTM E-84
The samples showed no significant
change in color after 200 hours
of exposure.
After completion of 10,000
scrub cycles, no wear-through
was observed.
The average absolute loss of white
light reflectance after application
and removal of standard dirt with liquid
detergent was 0.0%. No additional
cleaning was necessary.
Upon application of a lighted cigarette
to the sample surface, no significant
surface distortion was observed.
The average thickness of surface
removed to eliminate the stain was
0.001”.
Competitive Differences
CENTURA® has some very specific competitive differences that will provide an
advantage in most marketplaces. The specific differences and the list of those
differences are as follows:
Feature
Competitive Advantage
Sheet Size
CENTURA® offers more sheet sizes
than any other manufacturer. Sheets
come in 32” and 36” wide in lengths of
48”, 60”, 72”, 96”, 120”, and 144”; and
thickness' of 1/4”, 3/8”, 1/2” and 3/4”.
Custom Sheet Colors and Sizes
CENTURA® provides 31 standard
colors, but offers custom and rendered
colors for a two sheet minimum. No
other manufacturer custom colors
sheets without a major investment.
CENTURA® , also, offers custom sheet
sizes to enhance the extensive sizes
already offered.
Repairability
Most solid surfaces can be repaired,
but none do it so easy. CENTURA®
offers a liquid repair kit lot matched to
the sheets they produce. This repair
method ensures that repairs go
unnoticed.
Competitive Differences
Feature
Competitive Advantage
Liquid Inlays
Inlays via other manufacturers are
cumbersome, time consuming and
inflexible. CENTURA® ’s resin based
liquid inlays puts the creative back into
countertops. No matter what the
design or the color Centura is the
simplest inlay ever.
Liquid Coving
CENTURA® .
Liquid coving is offered by
The kit is a caulk consistency liquid, a
coved seam can be produced either
vertical or horizontal. Just tool it into
place, let it cure and finish to match the
top. Can it get any easier than that?
CENTURA® Flex
CENTURA® has the only sheet that
can conform to any radius surface
without ovens. A flexible solid surface
formulation gives the material enough
flexibility to bend radii to 6” without
fracture.
Read about CENTURA® ’s other extraordinary products in the product binder.
Safety Equipment
Safety is an important issue and concern for CENTURA® . We want each fabricator
to have the best experience possible working with our product and being injury free
is our highest priority. Having the following equipment along with an OSHA
approved first aid kit, is the first step to a successful shop.
Safety glasses are the most
important tool. Protect your
eyes at all times from chips and
flying fragments.
CENTURA® sheets are heavy
and awkward to handle. Safety
shoes are recommended.
Leather gloves can protect your
hands from cuts and provide
better gripping of CENTURA®
sheets.
Use ear protection, if noise
from routing, cutting and
sanding CENTURA® is beyond
recommended levels.
Nuisance dust is generated
during
fabrication
of
CENTURA® . Use ventilation
and dust collection methods.
Workers should use an
approved nuisance dust mask.
Material
Routers Handling
and Bits
Using routers with appropriate bits, guides and templates makes it one of the most
versatile tools in the shop. Routers produce smooth cuts requiring less finishing and
improves quality and productivity.
CENTURA® does its
ship product in a
best to produce and
manner easy to
CENTURA® sheet material
is delivered to the fabricator
on a skid accommodating
from one to ten sheets. The
material is banded to the
skid and can be handled by
forklift with extended forks. It
is recommended that forks
be at least ten feet long.
Use only routers for making cutouts.
MSDS ( Material
Safety Data Sheets)
are provided upon
®
To move CENTURA
by a
Professional
grade routers are
hand,for
grasp
the sheet
edges
must
fabrication.
The
router
and
carry
the
sheet
vertically
should be a minimum of 2 hp,
t o shank
p r e v eand
n t an
s a goperating
ging.
1/2”
®
CENTURA
sheets
weigh
speed
between
10,000
and
approximately
120
lb.
per
28,000 RPM.
1/2” x 32” x 120”, so take
care to prevent back injury.
Router bits are made for various
fabrication applications. Straight
cuts, edge treatments and bowl
tapers are all a function of the
right bit. Bits need to be carbide
tipped and must be kept sharp.
Sanders
Saws and Blades
Abrasives
A great CENTURA® top is one with a great finish. The customer judges both the
fabricator and CENTURA® on what they see and feel, so the finish is extremely
important. Accomplishing a great finish requires the proper sanding equipment and
abrasives, along with a technique that comes through experience.
CENTURA®
comes in
Belt sanders are the work sheet form and to make
horse of fabrication finishing. countertops the sheets
The belt sander is used
Stationary
table or
typically to saws,
removeeither
a lot of
vertical
a mustliquid
in the
materialpanel
for are
seams,
fabrication
process.
Stationary
inlays, liquid repairs or
saws
should be 5 hp or more,
scribing.
accommodate a 10” to 12”
Vibratingand
and have
randoma orbital
speed
will have to be cut. The bladed
sanders
are
used
in
the
fine
between
3000-4000
RPM.
saw and blade has a
finishing
process.
Electric
and
significant roll in the
air actuated both have their
applications.
orbital inhave
Circular
sawsMost
are useful
shop
an operating
speedThe
of 10,000
and
out of shop.
circular
OPM. should be 2 1/4 hp,
saw
accommodate a blade of 6 1/2”
to
7 1/4” and
speed of
Abrasives
are have
ever achanging
5000-6000
in the solidRPM.
surface industry.
Most fabricators use micron or
3M Trizact to obtain the best
finish. Consult with your
Blades
a
b r a s i should
v e s pbee ccarbide
i a l i s t tipped
to
of
triple
chip
grind
for
the
best
determine the best product for
performance.
The to
blade
should
the
finish you want
obtain.
have a positive rake 0 to 12
degrees,
a pitch ofby12
to 15orand
Abrasives are most commonly
determined
grade
mineral size and some, like
have
at
least
60
teeth
per
10”
3M Trizact, by even a different standard. The chart below gives some basic grit and
diameter. The key is to keep
micron comparisons.
your blades sharp to produce
the smoothest
Micron
U.S. Gritcut.
Micron
U.S. Grit
100.......................................................150 40 ........................................................ 280
80.........................................................180 30 ........................................................ 400
60.........................................................220 15 ........................................................ 600
Routers and Bits
Using routers with appropriate bits, guides and templates makes it one of the most
versatile tools in the shop. Routers produce smooth cuts requiring less finishing and
improves quality and productivity.
Use only routers for making cutouts.
Professional grade routers are a
must for fabrication. The router
should be a minimum of 2 hp,
1/2” shank and an operating
speed between 10,000 and
28,000 RPM.
Router bits are made for various
fabrication applications. Straight
cuts, edge treatments and bowl
tapers are all a function of the
right bit. Bits need to be carbide
tipped and must be kept sharp.
Sanders and Abrasives
A great CENTURA® top is one with a great finish. The customer judges both the
fabricator and CENTURA® on what they see and feel, so the finish is extremely
important. Accomplishing a great finish requires the proper sanding equipment and
abrasives, along with a technique that comes through experience.
Belt sanders are the work
horse of fabrication finishing.
The belt sander is used
typically to remove a lot of
material for seams, liquid
inlays, liquid repairs or
scribing.
Vibrating and random orbital
sanders are used in the fine
finishing process. Electric and
air actuated both have their
applications. Most orbital have
an operating speed of 10,000
OPM.
Abrasives are ever changing
in the solid surface industry.
Most fabricators use micron or
3M Trizact to obtain the best
finish. Consult with your
abrasive specialist to
determine the best product for
the finish you want to obtain.
Abrasives are most commonly determined by grade or mineral size and some, like
3M Trizact, by even a different standard. The chart below gives some basic grit and
micron comparisons.
Micron
U.S. Grit
100.......................................................150
80.........................................................180
60.........................................................220
Micron
U.S. Grit
40 ........................................................ 280
30 ........................................................ 400
15 ........................................................ 600
Clamps and Hand Tools
Clamps and hand tools play a vital part in the fabrication of CENTURA® . Clamps
are necessary in the seaming process to apply the right amount of pressure until the
bonding adhesive has time to cure and to maintain the parts in the proper position.
The various types of hand clamps along with other hand tools will be needed to
produce quality CENTURA® countertops.
Spring clamps are the
most used clamps for
edge build ups.
Clamps come in various sizes and styles.
Each clamp has its place in the fabrication
of solid surface. Be sure that you have
adequate supply of sizes and styles for the
many application that will be faced in the
fabricating of CENTURA® sheets.
Vacuum cups used in
the glazing industry
with
a
turnbuckle
attached is great for
field seams.
Straight edges, corner templates, scrapers
and chisels are also utilized in the
fabricating of solid surface. Straight edges
and templates are used for cutting sheets
and producing inside and outside corners.
The scrapers and chisels are used to
scrape excess adhesive from seamed
areas.
Planning
Planning can and will be the most important part of the fabrication process. It begins by
working from blue prints to develop an estimate for the the job. This estimate will take
into consideration material, fabrication and installation cost. This estimate will supply
the resource information needed to generate a proposal for the customer.
This estimate will be sufficient to calculate the order
quantities for sheets and seam kits. Keep in mind
CENTURA® delivers product within two weeks from
receipt of order, so you can use this estimate to place the
order prior to final measuring and templating.
The next step is to go to the job. It is recommended to
make allot of notes regarding the job. Take note to door
sizes, access to the site and will there be need to send
additional labor to get the countertop inside. The jobsite
visit should occur after the cabinets are installed. A
template can be made of the installed cabinets using 1 1/4”
strips of luan hot melt glued together. It is extremely
important to label the template for centerlines of bowls,
cooktop cutouts, finished edges and splashes. Mark your
template for any special instructions for the fabrication
process, i.e. overhangs, faucet drills or other considerations.
The jobsite notes along with the template are the most
important tools a fabricator has, so do not short yourself on
time or documentation.
Selecting Materials
CENTURA® produces a highly durable and machinable product. For the best
results, CENTURA® recommends the following procedure in storage and selection
of materials to save time, inconvenience and money.
CENTURA® should be stored in flat or vertical position. The recommended storage
temperature is 65°F. If material has been stored in a cooler area, let material
acclimate to the fabricating shop temperature before cutting.
The normal working range for the material is 70°F + 15°F.
CENTURA® offers sheets in 1/4”, 3/8”, 1/2”, and 3/4” thick
material by 32” wide by 48”, 60”, 72”, 96”, 120” and 144” in
length. A 36” wide sheet in the same thickness by 96”, 120”
and 144” in length, are also available. All materials are
produced to order, therefore, all sheets are lot matched.
Normal delivery time for CENTURA® is two weeks from
receipt of order.
CENTURA® Core-Lite offers only one sheet size. The composite sheet is 27” x
144”. Backsplash and edge build up material is order separately, either by the sheet
or by the strip. Backsplash strips come 3/8” x 4” x 144” and edge build up strips
come 1/2” x 1 1/4” x 144”.
Sheets are easily handled by two people or one person with
the aid of some type of transport device. CENTURA® has
formulated its solid surface not to be brittle and can be
machined and handled with ease.
Square Sheet
Once you select CENTURA® 1/2” sheet material or Core-Lite,
the next step is to square the sheet. This can be done by
setting your table saw or panel saw to make a horizontal cut the
full length of the material. The saw should be set to make a
minimal strip, but be sure it touches the sheet the full length.
The ends are cut using a panel saw or a router and straight
edge. When using a panel saw, flip the sheet over putting the
true side down and then cut the end. The saw will make a
square cut to the true edge. Make a pencil arrow toward the
true side designating the square side and end. If you use a
router, take a square, mark a pencil line, measure back the
proper distance from your line for the guide of your router,
clamp your straight edge in place and cut your sheet using a
double fluted router bit.
Note: A sharp router bit should always be used.
Next set your saw to cut edge build-up strips. These strips are typically 1 1/4” to 1
1/2” wide by the full length of the sheet and across the end. Two strips are necessary
to build an 1 1/2” edge or, if you choose to do a drop edge, one strip is all that's
needed. When cutting CENTURA® sheets use these basic rules:
1) Always use a sharp blade. A dull blade chips the material creating stress points.
2) Keep the blade at its lowest possible level.
3) Experiment with a scrap of material to determine the proper feed speed for the
material you are cutting.
Be sure to cut enough build-up strips for the job. Most fabricators rip the strips from
each sheet of material and not all from one sheet, since all sheets need to be
squared. Additional lengths can be used for build-up of inside and outside corners.
Seam Kits & Cartridges
CENTURA® seaming process is accomplished in two ways. CENTURA has always
promoted the use of its two part matching Seam 1 Kit as the best way to achieve an
inconspicuous seam. Seaming technology over the years have improved and
CENTURA® has added a Seam Cartridge to its seaming process. Not recognized for
its matching color, it does allow for increased speed of the seaming process over the
two part kit.
If a totally inconspicuous seam is wanted and needed, CENTURA recommends its
Seam 1 Kit as the only true alternative.
CENTURA® Seam 1 Kit comes with matching resin and
catalyst. The kit set time can be adjusted to temperature and
humidity by increasing or decreasing the the amount of catalyst.
It is recommended that a seam kit be tested at different mixtures
to get a feel for the setting time. Normal set time with for the kit
is 180 - 240 minutes and produces between 20 - 25 lineal feet of
seam. One hundred percent (100%) cure takes 24 hours.
The CENTURA® Seam Cartridge is the same as most solid
surface joint adhesive on the market today. Made from
methelacrylate, it is used for its speedy set time. The normal set
time is 30 minutes to handle and 60 minutes to start the
finishing process.
When using the cartridge it is imperative that one mixing tip of
material be squeezed off to make sure proper mixing of the
adhesive and catalyst occurs, and that the color is consistent.
The cartridge produces approximately 50 lineal feet of seam.
Note: Additional information for the seam kits are available in
the product literature or in the kit instructions.
After reading the instructions on the use of the seam kit
selected, take the build-up strips, bowl or sheet material and
clean them thoroughly with a clean white cloth and denatured
alcohol. Apply the adhesive to the material as directed. Set the
build-up strip, the bowl or position the sheets in place and clamp.
The following pages will address the procedures for each type of seam.
Edge Build Up
Seaming takes place in a number of fabrication steps; building up edges, seaming two
sheets together to make a countertop and seaming a bowl to the countertop. All three
of these applications will be discussed in this section
The edge build up strips are typically 1 1/4” to 1 1/2” wide. These
strips are seamed to the edge in one single drop or by stacking two
pieces together. Each edge type seams basically the same, except
the drop edge requires the seam material to be applied to the 1/2”
side of the material rather than the broad side of a stacked edge.
Core-Lite normally use a single drop edge and to do the edge build
up the core needs to be routed away prior to the fabrication steps
below.
When using Seam 1 Kit , clean the surfaces with a clean white cloth and denatured
alcohol, then the seam material is buttered onto the receiving sheet the same width as
the strip and applied to the strip. The first strip is put into place, adhesive to adhesive
then clamped every 3 - 4”. Be sure the build up strip extends past the edge of the
sheet slightly. It can be measured by taking the mixing stick (tongue
depressor) sliding it from the sheet edge to the strip. If the mixing
stick barely hangs up on the strip, it is correctly positioned. Once the
first strip has set for 10 - 30 minutes, the second edge can be
applied. This is done by removing the clamps laying them flat behind
the first build up strip. Place the second strip on the clamps. Butter
the strips with the Seam Kit 1, the second strip first, then the first.
Applying the kit in this sequence will keep you from getting seam
material on your clothes or your hands. Finish the build up by placing the second strip
on the first clamping every 3 - 4”. The second strip should be even with the first and
the first should be verified that it protrudes slightly from the sheet.
The seam cartridge is handled in much the same way. The strips or
the sheet receives the seam material from cartridge instead of being
hand applied. The strips, seam material and clamping occurs in the
same manner, however, your length of time between the application
of the first strip and the second is much shorter. As a matter of fact,
you can apply the second strip as soon as you have placed, clamped
and verified the first strip’s position. Start at the opposite end from
where you ended and repeat the strip, seam and clamping process. Be sure that you
apply an adequate amount of seam material to each piece.
Outside corners should be overlapped with a small triangular wedge behind the build
Edge Build Up Cont.
up. This small wedge provides additional support to the edge,
when a radius is applied. Inside corners should be done by
overlapping a 2” x 4” piece of solid surface, one each direction to
form an L. This type build up will allow for the 1 1/2” inside radius
necessary for a proper inside corner. Core-Lite inside and
outside corners should be fabricated in the exact same way as
Centura 1/2” material.
Core-Lite allows a single drop edge as part of its fabrication and
since a radius is required, you will need to stack 2 - 2” x 2” block
of material made of 1/2” or 3 pieces of 3/8” material. This build up
will give enough meat to rout the radius profile.
Once the seam material has jelled, take a sharp chisel and
scrape the excess seam material from the front and back edges
of the strips. This step will allow for a smooth operation of a
router clean up bit along the edge and provide adequate are for
your substrate strips. Before flipping the top, it is time to add the
substrate to the structure of the top. It is CENTURA®’s
recommendation to use a stable, moisture resistant material.
Substrate strips should be cut 1 1/2” wide and be adhered the length of the top. Be
sure to allow 1/8” between all substrate for expansion. Substrate strips should be
glued, using a construction grade adhesive (PL100/ Liquid Nails) or silicone. Substrate
strips should be set on all perimeter edges of the top and front to back next to heavy
items such as sinks and range cutouts. We have found that an additional substrate
strip should be added 12 - 13” from the front of the top running lengthwise as the
others. Overhangs more than 8” need to have additional support. If you are uncertain
about the type and style of the support, call CENTURA® for approval.
Note: CENTURA® does not allow the use of particle board as a substrate material.
Core-Lite is an exception to this rule due to the plastic core that is adhered to sheet.
This core acts as a buffer between the sheet and the substrate, therefore a lesser
grade of substrate can be used.
The clean up of seam adhesive is accomplished by using a 1 1/4” double fluted router
bit with a top bearing. The top bearing will ride on the edge of the sheet removing the
excess adhesive and uniform the edge in one pass. Once that is done the edge should
be sanded to the desire finish and a profile applied.
Seaming Sheets
Seaming sheets is the first step in building a countertop. Check your layout for the job,
select your sheet size based on the layout and check each sheet for color consistency,
visual defects and lot match. Lot match can be verified by locating the lot numbers on
each sheet, make sure the numbers correspond to each sheet that will be seamed
together.
The fabricator is responsible for visual inspection of the sheet and the lot number
verification.
Seaming the sheets together is not a complicated process, but does require patience
and desire to produce the best quality countertop. Your sheets do not come from the
factory with a square edge, therefore, check all sheets and perform the squaring
process as discussed previously. Your layout should help you determine your proper
positioning for seams. Never place seams within 3” of an inside corner or within 2” for
Core-Lite, a cutout for a bowl or range. Also, check to see if there
is a dishwasher within 6” of the seam and, if so, offset the seam
accordingly. The diagram shows you the placement of your seam
from an inside corner. Since you have determined your seam
location, mark your sheets and rough cut them to size with a
circular saw leaving them about a 1/4” oversized, because you
will finish cut the sheets with a router and the router will give you
a smooth seamable cut. If you are using a high quality panel saw,
you can cut the sheets to size, because they will provide a
smooth and accurate surface for seaming. Your countertop cutout should allow for an
inside radius of 1 1/2”. Once you have cutout your countertop then you are ready to
seam the sheet material together.
The next step is to position your sheets face up on a flat level table with the two edges
to be seamed together approximately 1/4” apart. Take your router with a 1/2” double
fluted bit and cut both sheets at same time. This is
known as mirror cutting. Clean the prepared mirror cut
with denatured alcohol or if a lot number is visible, sand
it off to remove it from the seam area. Dirty,
contaminated seams are visible seams. Once you have
prepared the seams, using the Seam 1 Kit or the
cartridge, put seam material on both edges, push the
two edges together forcing excess seam material ooze
out, clamp the seam together using the most
appropriate clamp for the job (see clamps in the tool
section). Be sure the two sheets are level with each
other by using a straight edge. Do not over tighten the
clamp, as it will force too much seam material from the
Seaming Sheets Cont.
starving it of adhesive. Allow adequate time for the sheets to bond together based on
the seaming system used.
When using the seam cartridges, CENTURA® requires a solid
surface seam support on the back of the seam. The support should
run from front to back approximately 3” wide and be beveled on
each side. When seaming Core-Lite or using a Seam 1 Kit, a seam
support is not required. The core along with the substrate on CoreLite provides the necessary support and when using the Seam 1 Kit,
the bonding process eliminates the need for a support. If you as the
fabricator choose to use a support for assurance, it does not affect
the seam adversely and is acceptable by Centura.
The final step in the seam process is removing the excess dried
seam material, then flip the sheet over to set the bowl and apply the
edge build up strips. This can be accomplished by a router on “skis”
or using a belt sander. Whichever system you choose, be sure not
to gouge or put excessive marks in the sheet that will make the final
finishing of the countertop harder. When flipping the sheet, be
careful in handling as it may be awkward and heavy.
Bowl Setting
CENTURA® provides all types of molded shape products to meet your customer’s
needs. The properly selected bowl, integrally mounted, will provide your customer with
years of useful life and beauty.
CENTURA®’s bowls are available in a wide array of sizes, shapes and colors. Choose
the best bowl for your project from our product binder under kitchen and lavatory
The bowl setting process over the years has changed dramatically. Some of the
changes has come from tooling technology and others have come from basic product
improvement. Whatever the reason, bowls are easy to install and should be installed in
every job.
Solid surface bowls are primarily the bowl of choice in the industry. CENTURA® has
chose to make the bowl setting process as simple as possible. The following steps will
walk you through the bowl setting process.
First refer to your job template and layout for all pertinent measurements and
positioning for the bowls. Layout the location on the reverse side of the sheet noting
the center line position for the bowl. Take the bowl from the carton. Verify the style and
color based on your order. Locate the centerline arrows or marks placed on the bowl.
Do not assume the bowl flanges are square and do not do your
layout from them. Place your bowl centerline marks on your
centerline as determined by your layout. Once you have positioned
the bowl, hot melt some positioning blocks around the flange of the
bowl. When preparing Core-Lite for a bowl, the core needs to be
routed from the flange area and should not be more than 1/8”
outside the bowl flange.Use 4 - 8 blocks based on your
assessment of the bowl size and shape. Core-Lite does not
require positioning blocks, as the core verifies the bowl position.
Remove the bowl and mark dimensions of the inside of the bowl
on the sheet. On Core-Lite, the inside bowl radius should be
marked prior to removing the core. Come inside those marks 1/2”
or use a bowl template, and remove the excess material with a
router. This will make the final router cutout easier. Clean all seam
areas, on the bowl and sheet, with denatured alcohol. Be sure all
pencil marks are removed. Place the seam adhesive within the
area of the inside bowl dimensions and the outside of the flange.
Put the adhesive on the sheet and the bowl. Reposition the bowl
inside the blocks or the core and place a weight of 10 lb. on the bowl. Do not bar clamp
the bowl, the weight is sufficient enough to create a proper seam. Core-Lite does not
need additional material support by adding a piece of 1/2” material under the bowl
flange. It does require that a bead of seam adhesive be squeezed into the gap of the
Bowl Setting Cont.
The final step is to turn the top over, but not until the edge build up and substrate is
complete, and then using a bowl router bit and the bowl as a guide, rout the excess
sheet material from the bowl opening. This will create a taper into the bowl and give it a
finished look.
There are other bowls used in solid surface countertops. They
mount differently and require different set ups from a solid surface
bowl. We will try to give you the fabrication techniques for drop-in
bowls and undermount bowls, not of solid surface.
Drop in bowls are simple to install and require the same
fabrication technique as any
type of cutout into solid surface. Instead of duplicating the
process, see the cutout section in this fabrication manual for the techniques used in
preparing cutout for drop in items.
Undermount bowls of various materials are sometimes used in solid surface
countertops. The following procedures, not that dissimilar to solid
surface bowls, will be discussed. These procedures are not the
final authority, but will give the basics for this type of installation.
The layout and positioning of the bowl would be similar to that of
solid surface. Most manufacturers can and do supply templates
showing the cutout area for the bowl to be mounted. It is our
opinion that any undermount bowl needs to be mounted at the
time of countertop installation. The countertop can be prepared to
receive the bowl, however, the cutout and weight of a bowl makes the top more
venerable to fracture. Your cutout should be located and routed using a template.
Once your countertop has been installed the final removal of the sheet material can be
done. Also, your clean up and sanding, if necessary, should be completed prior
mounting the bowl. Position the bowl by using a mechanical device. If you are
uncertain about the style and type of support bracket to use, contact CENTURA®for
approval. Once the bowl is positioned and before the brackets are tightened use a high
quality silicone adhesive to seal the bowl to the sheet. CENTURA® recommends an
industrial grade silicone, i.e. Axiom. Tool the silicone as needed to form an adequate
seal between the bowl and the sheet.
Fabrication Tip: Tip outs in the sink base require the bowl to be moved back 1/2”.
Profiling Edges
CENTURA® believes that the added value of having a solid surface countertop is the
ability for the countertop to be customized. The customization can occur in a number of
ways, from basic layout and design to unique details such as inlays and edge profiles.
This section deals with the developing and machining edge profiles for the
customization of CENTURA® countertops
Edge profiles are a unique way to customize a countertop. It can
be a design that identifies you as a unique and extraordinary
fabricator.
Edge profiles are as diverse as the tooling that is available. In
many cases, the fabricator takes the simple approach and in
others they develop special tooling and special names for the
designs they come up with.
You can tell from the commentary that edge profiles are
accomplished by a router bit. Most are done by hand and some
done by CNC. The key is for you as a fabricator to select the
styles that you want to offer as standard. Keep in mind, the more
detail you have the harder it is to finish.
Prior to profiling the countertop edge inside and outside corners
need to have a radius machined. The inside corners need a radius
no less than 1 1/2” and outside corners need a radius no less than
1”. It is recommended that you develop a set of templates with
different radii for different applications.
To machine an edge profile on a countertop requires a router, a
bit of choice, a straight edge and clamps. The straight edge is used as a guide to keep
the router at the proper distance from the edge. This straight edge is clamped to the
countertop and with the router in hand is guided in a smooth fashion to profile the
edge. Once the edge has been routed, then finishing can take place.
Edge details can also be added via accent trims (see product binder or the appropriate
section in this manual for details).
Bowl Setting Cont.
The final step is to turn the top over, but not until the edge build up and substrate is
complete, and then using a bowl router bit and the bowl as a guide, rout the excess
sheet material from the bowl opening. This will create a taper into the bowl and give it a
finished look.
There are other bowls used in solid surface countertops. They
mount differently and require different set ups from a solid surface
bowl. We will try to give you the fabrication techniques for drop-in
bowls and undermount bowls, not of solid surface.
Drop in bowls are simple to install and require the same
fabrication technique as any
type of cutout into solid surface. Instead of duplicating the
process, see the cutout section in this fabrication manual for the techniques used in
preparing cutout for drop in items.
Undermount bowls of various materials are sometimes used in solid surface
countertops. The following procedures, not that dissimilar to solid
surface bowls, will be discussed. These procedures are not the
final authority, but will give the basics for this type of installation.
The layout and positioning of the bowl would be similar to that of
solid surface. Most manufacturers can and do supply templates
showing the cutout area for the bowl to be mounted. It is our
opinion that any undermount bowl needs to be mounted at the
time of countertop installation. The countertop can be prepared to
receive the bowl, however, the cutout and weight of a bowl makes the top more
venerable to fracture. Your cutout should be located and routed using a template.
Once your countertop has been installed the final removal of the sheet material can be
done. Also, your clean up and sanding, if necessary, should be completed prior
mounting the bowl. Position the bowl by using a mechanical device. If you are
uncertain about the style and type of support bracket to use, contact CENTURA®for
approval. Once the bowl is positioned and before the brackets are tightened use a high
quality silicone adhesive to seal the bowl to the sheet. CENTURA® recommends an
industrial grade silicone, i.e. Axiom. Tool the silicone as needed to form an adequate
seal between the bowl and the sheet.
Fabrication Tip: Tip outs in the sink base require the bowl to be moved back 1/2”.
Profiling Edges
CENTURA® believes that the added value of having a solid surface countertop is the
ability for the countertop to be customized. The customization can occur in a number of
ways, from basic layout and design to unique details such as inlays and edge profiles.
This section deals with the developing and machining edge profiles for the
customization of CENTURA® countertops
Edge profiles are a unique way to customize a countertop. It can
be a design that identifies you as a unique and extraordinary
fabricator.
Edge profiles are as diverse as the tooling that is available. In
many cases, the fabricator takes the simple approach and in
others they develop special tooling and special names for the
designs they come up with.
You can tell from the commentary that edge profiles are
accomplished by a router bit. Most are done by hand and some
done by CNC. The key is for you as a fabricator to select the
styles that you want to offer as standard. Keep in mind, the more
detail you have the harder it is to finish.
Prior to profiling the countertop edge inside and outside corners
need to have a radius machined. The inside corners need a radius
no less than 1 1/2” and outside corners need a radius no less than
1”. It is recommended that you develop a set of templates with
different radii for different applications.
To machine an edge profile on a countertop requires a router, a
bit of choice, a straight edge and clamps. The straight edge is used as a guide to keep
the router at the proper distance from the edge. This straight edge is clamped to the
countertop and with the router in hand is guided in a smooth fashion to profile the
edge. Once the edge has been routed, then finishing can take place.
Edge details can also be added via accent trims (see product binder or the appropriate
section in this manual for details).
Installation Cont.
planer or router. The machined top should be again dry fit to make sure of a good true
set. CENTURA® suggests that you do not silicone the top until all cutouts are verified
for size. This will make it easier to machine , if adjustments need to be made.
Cutout Preparation:
Cutouts for drop-in bowls and cooktops are common. Installation is the
time that the cutouts are verified and prepared for the appliance. The
first step is to finish cutting the opening for such items. A
router is typically the tool of choice. Once the opening
has been made, CENTURA® recommends you dry fit all
appliances. Be sure that the cooktop cutout has
adequate spacing for the heat reflective tape. Machined and verified,
now silicone the top in place, install reflective tape and set all
appliances.
Field Seams:
Occasionally the size of the top dictates that a field seam is to
be made. As we previously stated, an installer my have to deal
with the same fabrication issues as the shop. This is one of
those cases.
Field seams are accomplished exactly as they would be in the
shop. A flat level surface is required, therefore, you must be
prepared. Follow the steps as stated in this manual for field
seams. CENTURA®recommends, when time is not a concern, to
use Seam 1 Kit. Seam 1 Kit is matched to the sheet material, which makes the
seaming process more forgiving. Either process can work, but be sure to follow each
step. Shortcuts mean call backs.
Splashes:
There are two types of splashes on a countertop. A backsplash,
which runs the length of the top, normally 4” high and a side
splash, which runs front to back on the top, normally 4” high.
These splashes are mounted using a quality industrial grade
silicone, i.e. Axiom. The silicone is used as an adhesive to glue
the splash to the wall and as a sealant between the top and the
splash. Axiom makes translucent tinted silicone to blend to
sheets.
Installation Cont.
Inspection:
The final step in the fabrication and installation phase is the inspection. It is important
to quality check your job before someone else does. This should include general
appearance of the installed top, conducting a general warranty inspection looking for
any places that could lead to a potential claim, prepare the warranty card that will be
mailed to CENTURA® and be sure to leave the premises as they were when you
arrived or better, if possible.
A good adage to live by is, “ It doesn’t take any longer to do a job right, than to do it
over.” Truer words were never spoken and can be a saving grace in the fabrication and
installation of CENTURA® countertops.
Advanced Fabrication
Advanced fabrication does not imply that the training and discussions that have
previously taken place are beginner, but this section deals with product and
applications that are an advancement over other solid surface companies. This section
will cover CENTURA®’s unique products such as: Liquid Repairs, Liquid Inlays, Vertical
Seam and Cove, CENTURA® Flex, Accent Trims and Shower Pans.
CENTURA® recommends that all of the unique liquid products that they sell be tried by
the fabricator, before selling to a customer. Therefore, CENTURA will be happy to send
a kit at no charge for you to test on your own, so a proficiency with the product can be
obtained.
Liquid Repair:
CENTURA® is the only solid surface company that offers a liquid
repair system. Each CENTURA®sheet is labeled many times
with the CENTURA® lot number and a liquid repair kit can be
produced to match that sheet. It doesn’t matter, if CENTURA®
produced one of its 31 standard colors or one of the hundreds of
custom or rendered colors they make, a repair kit can be
provided.
The fabrication process is very simple and the first step is to determine what has
created the crack or defect in the first place. Once the source of the stress has been
found, the crack is stopped by drilling a hole at its end. A dremmel, router or roto zip
tool is used to machine the crack. CENTURA® cautions you to be sure to follow the
crack completely, even if it angles or travels through the front edge or under the back
splash. In some cases the top or splash may need to be removed. An improperly
treated crack is one that will reoccur. Crack preparation is the most important task and
the most time consuming. Don’t try to shortcut the process. Dam the back side of the
crack to hold the repair material. If you cannot get to the back side, prepare the crack
into a V shape leaving a barely visible amount of sheet material to hold repair material.
The next step is to prepare the mixture. Please follow the directions completely. Once
the mixture is prepared, pour the material into the machined area, release surface air
bubbles by using a pointed tooth pick, allow to cure and machine as you would a
seam. Caution needs to be taken not to overheat the area in the sanding process. This
could cause the material to shrink creating a divot after the sanded area cools.
CENTURA® Liquid Repair is a one of a kind product, which reduces the time and cost
associated with making field repairs.
Advanced Fabrication Cont.
Liquid Inlays:
Liquid Inlays are very similar to doing a liquid repair. The difference is that a trough is
prepared in the sheet material approximately 1/8” deep. This trough can be in any
design or detail one can imagine. The inlay colors are vast and can be made with and
without particulate, just like a repair kit. Design away and make inlays part of your profit
center.
Liquid inlays make the fabrication easier than the traditional cut
and fit method. The preparation of the design can be done with
a hand router, CNC, sand blasting or laser etching. The
complexity of the design is entirely up to you and your
customer. CENTURA® recommends that a dam should be
created approximately 1/4” outside the design, to allow the
liquid inlay to overflow and overfill. This can be done using
masking tape or modeling clay. Once the design is prepared,
mix the liquid inlay per the instructions provided with the kit.
Pour the mixture into the design, help release surface air
bubbles by running a toothpick in the design, allow to cure and machine as you would
a seam. The same caution needs to be exercised in the machining process, as you
would do with a repair kit.
CENTURA® recommends that the liquid inlays be done the last thing of the day
allowing it to cure overnight and be machined the next morning. By doing this, it will put
inlay profits back into your shop without affecting production.
Coved Backsplashes:
Coved backsplashes are accomplished in two ways. The
traditional build up and rout method or using the Vertical Seam
and Cove Kit. The traditional method is taught as part of our
fabrication seminars, however, it requires a specially designed
router. CENTURA® produces a liquid seam product,of a caulk
consistency that can be done by a hand tool and sand method.
The Vertical Seam and Cove Kit is, for all practical purposes, a
thickened repair kit. This material comes to match the sheet
material and should be ordered when the sheet material is
ordered.
The fabrication of the splashes can be done at the shop or in the field, but keep in mind
Advanced Fabrication Cont.
it does require a lot of sanding. CENTURA® has found a very useful tool for the finish
process and it is called a cove scraper by Monument Tools. This scraper is the same
diameter as the cove being created. It has a cutting head and a long screw driver type
handle. This scraper smoothes the roughness from the tooled cove material and
makes the sanding process easier. If you do not use the scraper, happy sanding. Cove
sanders are also available from a number of manufacturers and can ease the sanding
process.
Follow the instructions sent with the kit and try it before you sell it.
CENTURA® Flex:
Fabrication sometimes requires products to be bent into a shape. Polyester resin is
not the most conducive to thermoforming, therefore, CENTURA® has produce a
flexible material. Most applications are for tops needing radii or vertical surfaces
needing to be clad with solid surface. The flexible material can bend to form radii by
applying minimal heat, such as a blow dryer or hot water.
The material machines like the regular sheet material and is very stable when applied
to a solid sheet or surface. This makes CENTURA® flex ideal for vertical radius
applications.
Accent Trims:
CENTURA® has produced a series of Accent Trims for counter
edges, backsplashes or shower wall applications. The trims
come in 6’ lengths, unless otherwise noted on the price sheet.
These trims can add a look of customization without the hassle
in fabrication.
Each trim is molded and has a repetitive pattern. This pattern makes it possible to cut
and seam it together. The trims can be hard seamed or siliconed to any surface. The
fabrication technique for the trim is cutting and seaming. The only challenge in
fabrication is clamping and with most of the trims they can be hot glued to the surface
until the adhesive dries.
Shower Pans:
CENTURA® shower pans come molded and prefabricated. Your product binder
discusses the necessary measurements for the order process. CENTURA® will provide
installation instructions with each pan. Please be sure to follow those instructions
Technical Bulletins
Technical Bulletins will be sent to you from time to time. These bulletins will be sent to
you on a yellow sheet to attract your attention.
The technical bulletins are changes in fabrication technique, which need to be
implemented immediately into day to day fabrication. These technical bulletins will be
dated and will supersede all previous fabrication guidelines or bulletins.
Note: Not implementing the new fabrication procedure will void all warranties on
counter tops fabricated after the issuance date of the technical bulletin!
Warranty Bulletins
Warranty Bulletins may be sent to you from time to time. These bulletins will be sent to
you on a orange sheet to attract your attention.
The warranty bulletins are an alert to the potential of warranty claims that could occur
due to new information received from other fabricators. These warranty bulletins will be
dated and will typically be accompanied by a technical bulletin.
As an example, a warranty bulletin may be issued to alert you to a recurring claim
status of an particular fabrication issue. A warranty may be accompanied by a course
of action that is separate from a technical bulletin. Also, a bulletin may establish a
procedure for handling a warranty claim issue and affix a reimbursable amount to that
procedure.
Core-Lite Fabrication Summary
Core-Lite has some specific fabrication steps that will be summarized for ease of
access, even though it is incorporated with the the total fabrication and installation
guide.
Storing Core-Lite
Core-Lite should be stored flat in the fabrication shop. Be sure that the sheets,
backsplash and build up strips have had time to acclimate to the fabrication
temperatures to eliminate fabrication problems. Care should be taken in
handling the Core-Lite sheets to avoid stress cracks. Sheets should be carried
on its side edge and if a fork lift is used, place a call sheet of plywood or other
solid material under the sheet for support.
Square Sheets
Manufacturing works diligently to manufacture square sheets, but as with all
companies it is good practice to square the sheets prior to fabrication. Take
note that the squaring process maintains adequate core over the entire sheet of
solid surface.
Seaming
The seaming process of Core-Lite is really no different than seaming 1/2” solid
surface.with the exception that the seam can be 2” out of any corner and CoreLite does not require a seam support behind the deck seam.
Mirror cutting is not required, when a high quality table saw or panel saw is
used with tolerances within thousands of an inch. This can be verified by dry
fitting the sheets to see if they marry together adequately. Otherwise, mirror
cutting is recommended to get tight seams. When mirror cutting is necessary,
please be sure that the two pieces marry together unobstructed. The core
sometimes interferes with the seam. It can be trimmed with a utility knife. It is
recommended to use a fluted up-spiral router bit (see figure B-1) to minimize
the fray from the core and to evacuate the core pieces out the top in the mirror
cutting process.
Once the deck seam has been prepared, clean with denatured alcohol and
place the pieces on a flat table approximately 1/8” apart. Use the seam
cartridge and squeeze an adequate amount of adhesive between the two
pieces allowing enough adhesive to drift down into the core area. Be sure to
squeeze one pull of seam adhesive into a container to insure the product is
properly mixed and the tinted color is consistant. It is extremely important that
enough adhesive gets into the core as this allows for the elimination of a seam
1/2 HP router or larger. It is also, recommended that an increased router sole
plate be created or purchased from the distributor. The sole plate is a necessary
safety requirement and it gives greater stability and smoother operation when
removing the core. The size of the sole plate needs to be a minimum of one
additional diameter of the router sole plate. For example, if a common sole plate
is 6”, the new sole plate needs to be a minimum of 12 “ offset to one side(See
Figure B-4).
B-1
Prepare and adhere the stacked edge as you
would a standard stacked edge inclusive of
inside and outside corner blocks.
Bowl Mounting
B-2
B-3
Bowls are quickly and easily mounted to CoreLite. Position the bowl by using the center line
marks on the bowl flange. Mark the exterior of the flange with a pencil and
remove the bowl. Using a router with a 1 1/4 - 1 1/2” double or triple flute bit, set
the router depth to remove the core and skim the solid surface sheet. Rout the
core prior to applying any edge build up to simplify the process. Use a scrap
piece of material to set the depth. If a template is being used, make the
appropriate adjustments for depth and collars. Remove the core by following the
template or line. Be sure enough core is removed to the interior of the bowl to
set the bowl in place. Inspect the core edge to make sure it will not interfere with
setting the bowl. Set the bowl dry to verify position and that there is no core
interference. Once that has been done, clean the bowl flange and sheet with
denatured alcohol, dispense the adhesive and set the bowl. With Core-Lite no
positioning blocks are necessary as the core keeps the bowl in position. After
the bowl has been set place a 10# weight on the bowl until dry. Also, run a bead
of adhesive between the bowl flange and the core for additional support (see
Figure C). Use a standard bowl routing bit from
the top side to finish the job.
Range and Bowl Cut-Outs
Range cut-outs are prepared the same way as
for 1/2” material. It does not require support
blocks, because of the core. It does require
three strips of heat resistant aluminum tape
hanging down at least 2” and feathered at the
bottom to dissipate heat. all cut areas should be
smooth and eased, as with 1/2” material. A piece of substrate on each side of
the range will provide the additional support for drop-in ranges. Slide-in ranges
with ovens need to be totally self supporting.
support. An inadequate amount of adhesive will make the seam susceptible to
fracture during handling or could create a failure after installation. Seams are
not a warranted function
and need to be
appropriately done to
eliminate potential
problems. Excess
adhesive can be
removed after it has
cured by using a sander
B-4
or a router on skis.
Caution should be taken
when using a belt
sander not to dish the
surface by over sanding.
Edge Build Up
Core-Lite has two edge build up options for fabrication. One is a drop edge of a
single piece of 1/2” x 1 1/4” piece adhered to the deck and two is a standard
stacked edge.
A drop edge is prepared first by removing the core from the counter top deck.
This process is done by working from a sheet face down position or core up.
When removing the core, use a 1/2” rabbeting bit (i.e. Velapec RT-88W, see
figure B-2) on a 2 1/2 HP router at a speed of 15-18,000 RPM. Be sure to set
the router depth to skim the solid surface sheet and enough depth to insure all
the core adhesive is removed. Use a scrap piece of material to set up your
router before proceeding to the countertop. If there are any frayed pieces of
core remaining use a utility knife to remove. Once the core has been removed,
prepare the edge strip and sheet by cleaning with denatured alcohol. The
rabbeting bit should allow enough clearance to seam the strip to the top. The
core will act as a positioning strip and make the clamping process easier.
Squeeze adhesive onto the counter top, position your strip and clamp it
together. Be sure to place clamps no more than 2” apart. Squeeze a bead of
adhesive, once the strip has been positioned, between the strip and the core
(See Figure B). This will give additional support to the strip for durability.
Inside and outside corners will require a corner block made of strip material for a
stacked edge. Make the block large enough to create a minimum 1” radius. A
drop edge can be a minimal 1/4” outside radius and a 1”inside radius.
Stacked edges are done in the same fashion as a drop edge or standard 1/2”
material stacked edge except a special designed one pass rabbet bit has been
designed to remove the core. The bit was developed by Velapec to our
specifications and are available through your distributor (see figure B-3). The bit
has an operating range of no more than 12,000 RPM and should be used on a 3
Bowl cut-outs do not require the heat resistant tape, but it does need to be
supported, smoothed and eased.
Finishing
Finishing the top is done identically to 1/2” material in every way. The finish
level is determined by you and your customer.
A matte finished can be achieved by sanding first with 100 micron paper,
stepping next to a 60 micron paper and finishing with a white or gray 3M
Scotch-Brite® pad. Higher levels can be achieved by adding additional steps of
sanding. Refer to the standard fabrication and installation guide for additional
finish choices.
Overhangs
Overhangs for peninsulas and islands can be done with a full piece of substrate.
This is made possible, because of the core providing a buffer between the wood
and the solid surface. Centura allows up to an 8” overhang without support of a
corbel even with a solid substrate. Anything over 8” requires support.
Installation
Installation of Core-Lite is conducted the same as for 1/2”. The benefit is that
the top is 1/2 the weight, which makes it possible to make larger sections of
tops in the shop, hopefully, eliminating the amount of field seams.