m~h© Zviv, wek¦f v i iv k f v cÖv K v Y A Rxe‡bi Drme This art work is done with gel pen on black paper. It's a visualization of how thoughts pops in our head. This type of art is referred as 2 dimensional design it gives artist liberty to express their creativity following the rules of designing. Lyra Mukherjee, IL, USA pÇf¡ce¡ l¢”a¡ Q­–¡f¡dÉ¡u fËbj pwMÉ¡, ®®p­ÃVðl p­ÃVðl 2015 h¡a¡ue fËbj pwMÉ¡, ®p­ÃVðl 2015 pÇf¡ce¡ l¢”a¡ Q­–¡f¡dÉ¡u, IL, USA f˵Rc¢nÒf£ Ga¥fZÑ¡ QÉ¡V¡SÑ£, IL, USA A¿¹Ñf˵Rc m¡ul¡ j¤MÉ¡SÑ£, IL, USA hÉhÙÛ¡fe¡ ¢hnÄ¢Sv j¢am¡m, Kolkata, India AmwLlZ L¡Sm J p¤¤hËa, Kolkata, India ®g¡­V¡NË¡g¡l a£bшl hÉ¡e¡SÑ£, Perth, Australia fËL¡nL Neo Spectrum C-®jm : a_banerjee@iinet.net.au l©f¡ue Ae¤nË£ hÉ¡e¡‹Ñ£, Perth, Australia h¡a¡ue f¢œL¡ h¡a¡ue L¢j¢V à¡l¡ fËL¡¢na J phÑpšÄ pwl¢ra z h¡a¡ue L¢j¢Vl ¢m¢Ma Ae¤j¢a R¡s¡, HC f¢œL¡u fËL¡¢na ®k ®L¡e Aw­nl f¤ejѤâZ h¡ ®k ®L¡e i¡­h hÉhq¡l ¢e¢oÜ z lQe¡u fËL¡¢na ja¡ja pÇf§ZÑ i¡­h lQ¢ua¡u p£j¡hÜ z Published by the BATAYAN of Neo Spectrum, Perth, Australia. No part of the articles in this issue can be re-printed without the prior approval of the publisher. The editor is not responsible for the contents of the articles in this issue. The opinions expressed in these articles are solely those of the contributors and are not representative of the Batayan Committee. p§Q£fœ Rxe‡bi Drme ®Yy¢L ü­NÑ ®N­mJ 2 p¤¤Su cš ®q¡¢m 8 d£j¡e Qœ²haÑ£ nah­oÑl B­m¡­L — L¢mL¡a¡l I¢aqÉh¡q£ ®Q¡lh¡N¡e Q­–¡f¡dÉ¡u f¢lh¡­ll SNÜ¡œ£ f§S¡ N¡­el ®jm¡ - fË¡­Zl ®jm¡ 9 11 yEvf­m¾c¤ ®Q±d¤l£ Celebration of Indianness in Minnesota 12 Debarshi Roy `~‡i †Kv_vI 13 Oregon Travel Experience Saumen Chattopadhyay fv‡jvjvMv eB "¢el¦­Ÿn pÇf­LÑ ®O¡oZ¡' — A¢e¾cÉ Q­–¡f¡dÉ¡u 15 je¡j£ ®N¡ü¡j£ Rvbvjv w`‡q ®jjp¡­q­hl ¢ce 16 ®ch£¢fËu¡ l¡u Bj¡­cl hC f¡­W 19 h¡p¿¹£ h­¾cÉ¡f¡dÉ¡u Øjª¢aQ¡lZ¡ — Bj¡l ®cM¡ lj¡ c¡n…ç¡ 22 Su¿¹£ Ll”u ¢m­j¢lL 24 öï cš A Game of Marbles 25 Bakul Banerjee 25 Pens, Pencils and Binder Clips Bakul Banerjee 26 Chicago Poem Binita Gupta 27 Blue Moon Bani Bhattacharyya FLASH OF THOUGHT 28 Calcutta Cuisine Balarka Banerjee †fvR Kq hvnv‡i Recipe Annyasha Mukherjee Roy 33 Acknowledgement: On behalf of Batayan magazine I want to thank all the contributors to our first issue. Thank you very much for being with us and trusting us. Thanks to everyone who provided us moral support. It is because of all our friends that the long cherished dream became a reality. We could not have done it without your support. 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†PŠayix, Kolkata, India 11 Rxe‡bi Drme Celebration of Indianness in Minnesota Debarshi Roy, MN, USA concluded with an Indian DJ night which was enjoyed by a huge crowd. A small town named Rochester (not to be confused with Rochester, NY), which is only 70 miles away from the twin city area has a significant number of Indian population due to the presence of Minnesota's biggest employer, Mayo Clinic. Most of the Indians moved to this small town for their relationship to Mayo. The narrator himself is one of them who moved from Texas. The Indian population in Rochester also celebrated the Indianness just like India fest. Here the celebration occurred after a week, on August 22nd. It was the first of its kind organized in this little town, so the excitement was much more. This event was named as Rochester India Day conducted by the cultural association of bengalees of Rochester or CABERI. It was advertised in the local TV stations and newspapers to attract the local crowd. This show was 4 hour long; many participants from Rochester and the surroundings joined this event. Alike India fest, several music and dance performances were done in India day by the local talents. Additionally, there was a fancy dress show for the kids which made excitement among the kids. Few vendors also joined this show selling handcrafted jewelry, Indian snacks, and henna design. This show has been appreciated and cherished by the locals. Minnesota is home to approximately 30-35K Indians. Most of this growing population in this state is residing around the Minneapolis-St. Paul twin city area and in its nearby neighborhoods. With this growing population there is a significant rise in the number of Indian restaurants, grocery stores etc. in this area. We Indians love to preserve and nurture our culture in this foreign land. Minnesota is no exception; every year various cultural and social events are been organized by different Indian associations across the twin city. Among these different events, the biggest one is “India Fest”; which is organized by the Indian Association of Minnesota (IAM) to celebrate the Indian Independence Day. This year this event occurred on 15th August in St Paul Capitol Grounds. This event has been organized by IAM for last 30 years, and in addition this year the Minnesota State Governor has announced that from now on every 15th August will be designated as India Day in the State of Minnesota. The daylong event attracted approximately 10,000 people. There were different vendors selling delicious Indian food, jewelry, dress materials, home décor items etc. Apart from that there were booths hosted by various non-profit organizations displaying the culture and heritage of India. Long lists of cultural events were conducted throughout this day in a nicely decorated open stage. The audience experienced several great performances by the local talents throughout the day. There were classical music performances, bollywood dances, folk dance forms, classical Indian instrumentals, band performance etc. The two most noted Indian dance groups from Minneapolis area, Katha (North Indian Classical Dance Group specialized in Kathak) and Ragamala (South Indian Dance Group specialized in Bharatanatyam) gave a memorable performance which was highly appreciated by the huge crowd. The narrator was fortunate to perform music in this show as well with his musical team. The event was 12 `~‡i †Kv_vI Oregon Travel Experience Saumen Chattopadhyay, IL, USA It was on October 18th last year. The morning of a rainy Saturday. I looked through the window of my hotel room at Cascade Locks, Oregon. Layers of cloud sheltered on the sky the nature was in rainy mood. A glimpse of “The Bridge of the Gods” through dense fog looked mysterious. I didn't want to stay in the cozy hotel room; my mind was treading on the mountains of Oregon. Well, let me get out, I said to myself but no camera, OK? I just remembered I forgot the rain jacket for my camera let alone mine. I stepped out. The Pacific Crest trail was just on the other side, nestled inside a park. With dripping rainwater from my hat and wet jacket I hiked on. It was a steep rocky trail enveloped in mossy and tall pine trees. My footstep seemed to be the only noise breaking the still silence of the forest as it was waking up in twilight. I paid attention to my footstep on the slippery trail with uneven rocks while my senses immersed with the enigma of Pacific Crest trail that spiraled up in the mountain. I heard swift movements of deer and other animals disturbed by the presence of a stranger in their habitat. As the trail twisted at every turn the forest became more dense and impenetrable. Bewildered by the wilderness I started feeling the presence of an intangible being silently watching my movement in his kingdom. It was an uncanny atmosphere where nothingness surrounded all living being the flora and fauna of the forest. I was completely drenched but continued on my voyage with a keen desire to see the unseen. on with my curious mind having no fear of moving into unknowns. The trail became more treacherous with steeper slope. I forgot how long I hiked nor I had any desire to check the time on my cellphone. The notion of time appeared to fade away in my mind with a feeling that the “clearest way into the Universe is through forest wilderness”. I didn't want to remember I belong to a civilized world! I lost my soul inside the soul of the forest. And then a sudden noise of footsteps altered my hearing sense. It was an offbeat sound beyond the realm of my expectation. Who could it be? The noise got more Then appeared a valley at the end of the forest. I noticed the sign of “Dry Creek Falls” with an arrow pointing toward the beginning of another forest. I remembered the saying “you can't stay one corner of the Forest waiting for others to come to you. You have to go to them sometimes”. I marched 13 prominent and I was awe-stuck with the sudden appearance of an unearthly masculine figure with bald head running down the trail. I somehow held myself back in the corner to let him pass. He was running at a lightening speed and when I looked back, he disappeared. I tried to hear his fading footsteps, but no vein. When I gained my senses back I looked at the trail behind and it seemed humanly impossible to decent while running without the risk of falling down on the forest floor. Who was he? I asked myself. mountain and it was an inexplicable experience. I was perplexed by the sight of the stranger not being able to grasp his supernatural, wind-like decent on a very steep slippery Pacific Crest trail. It baffled me so much. I asked the localites but no one could provide a plausible answer while one said “strange things happen in the deep forests of Oregon mountains”. The next day was sunny and I climbed up the same trail to take a few shots of Dry Creek Falls. I aspired to meet that “unknown” once again, but he was not present for an unknown reason. 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Bhª¢šl jd¤l p¤¤­lm¡ Lãül BSJ ®ke öe­a f¡C, L¡­e ®ke ¢lj ¢lj L­l h¡­S z ®k l¡SL£u pj¡­l¡­q a¡l A­¿¹É¢ø ¢œ²u¡ pÇfæ qm ®N¡V¡ i¡lahoÑ A¢ii¨a q­u ®cM­m¡ ®p cªnÉ z LS­el i¡­NÉ Hje f¢lZ¢a O­V L¢hl i¡o¡u "jlZ ®l a¥C jj nÉ¡j pj¡e' ay¡l Ahc¡e phÑL¡­m phÑS­el L¡­R ¢Ql¿¹e z ay¡­L Bj¡l nËÜ¡ J pÇj¡e S¡¢e­u BS­Ll j­a¡ C¢a V¡em¡j Bj¡l flj hå¥, c¡nÑ¢eL Hhw fb fËc¢nÑL¡ nË£ja£ p¤¤¢Qœ¡ ®p­el hýj§M£ fË¢ai¡ju S£he cnÑ­el z 1947 p¡­m ®cn ü¡d£e qm, Bjl¡ LmL¡a¡u Q­m Hm¡j z aMe B¢j Aøj ®nËZ£l R¡œ£, H­p L¡¢mO¡V ®cnhå¥ ú¥­m c¤ hRl f­s ®n­o jÉ¡¢VÊL¥­mpe fl£r¡ ¢c­u f¡n Llm¡j z Bö­a¡o L­m­S i¢šÑ qm¡j, C¾V¡l ¢j¢X­uV ®no Ll¡l Rj¡­pl j­dÉ ¢h­u ¢WL L­l j¡ ¢h­u 23 Rvbvjv w`‡q ¢m­j¢lL öï cš, Washington, USA pª¢øl ®b­L H fË¡ZfËh¡q e¡l£l L¡­RC GZ£ j¡-®h¡e-hå¥-¢fËu¡-¢Qlp¡b£ e¡e¡l©­f a¡­L ¢Q¢e S£he ec£l ®pË¡­a fË¢a hy¡­L p¡qQ­kÑl q¡a a¡l b¡­L e¡l£¢chp ®a¡ HL¢ce eu, ®p ®a¡ fË­aÉL ¢ceC z ************* ¢Rm A¢i­ea¡, q­u ®Nm ®ea¡, H ®a¡ fË¡uC ®c¢M p­h ®ea¡ ®b­L qm A¢i­ea¡, ®Le Hje O­V e¡ a­h ? h¡f¤ ®q, ®a¡j¡l h¡¢L hý ®nM¡ pj¡S J l¡Se£¢a l©f­lM¡; ®ea¡, Bp­m ®a¡ ®p A¢i­ea¡C; ea¥e L­l ¢L q­h ? ************* c¤C fË¢a­hn£ ®c­n ®ào¡­à¢o, ®lo¡­l¢o Q­m ®M¡m¡M¤¢m i¨¢j p£j¡­¿¹ f¡q¡sfË¡­¿¹ A¢hla Q­m ®N¡m¡…¢m c¤C ®cnh¡p£, p¤¤c§l ¢h­c­n Ah¡L L¡ä, a¡l¡ ®q­p ®q­p ®R­s ®ào¡­à¢o L­l ®jn¡­j¢n, ®lo¡­l¢o i¥­m ®L¡m¡L¥¢m z 24 Rvbvjv w`‡q A Game of Marbles Pens, Pencils and Binder Clips Bakul Banerjee, IL, USA Bakul Banerjee, IL, USA On the tall solid bookshelf the rusty old can of marbles sat behind crumbling books holding nuggets of nostalgia “Haunted Halloween Happenings” is written on the orange cup. Once it held candies, now pencils, but it is the howl unbroken from my child's throat that I remember the most. Flicking figures we drove marbles into holes in dirt bartering away the uglies chipped, dented and dull It's hard to build the courage for my mission of rejecting memories and discard the tankard with a baseball logo the child has forgotten. It is full of paintbrushes that meetst her standard. We played for wins or losses saving clean, shiny glass ones with fancy names - cat's eye turtles, pearls and oxbloods To complete this chore I need permission from my aching heart who has to decide if this dried up silver marker or that broken pen with the familiar college name must go. Wins or losses, the can grew heavy and heavier, rattling, collecting scratches as we took turns shaking it through our lives. “The Greatest Mom” is the honored definition that was bestowed on me as stamped on a mug, now missing a handle. By my true admission, how can I get rid of this precious diploma? Later, bearing stones and steelies we agree - life is rather heavy Papers and paper binders present a condition of grave dilemma as I peer into old certificates, reports and ramblings that I kept, but forgotten or neglected by my children for the time being. 25 Rvbvjv w`‡q Chicago Poem Binita Gupta, IL, USA I heard rumors about her “Her breath reeks of cigarette smoke” “Unpredictable and violent” “She's just like every other girl I've ever met, don't waste your time!” All of these words leaked around thick cigars Stuffed between the yellowing teeth of some men I met at a sports bar But I decided to meet her anyway, in the middle of the night. She was still awake, the stars in her eyes far from diminished And while I didn't believe in love at first sight before In that moment, I did. She smelled like sunlight and whispered like the wind, And she was unprecedented, mysterious, and devastatingly brilliant. I planned to stay for just a night, so the next morning I slipped on my coat and told her it was lovely getting to know her. Hearing this, she laughed with her shoulders. (I remember someone telling me she had hefty shoulders like a man, But her shoulders looked rather dainty, Yet somehow I had no doubt they could carry the weight of the world.) She then simply blew some cigarette smoke out between her red lips, Leaned in and whispered into my ear, “Do you really think you know me?” So I paused and asked how long it would take to fully know her And she laughed again, That confusing, poetic laugh that sounded like fountains trickling, Bicycle horns, and feet slamming on pavement, all at once, And responded coyly “You'll have to stay with me forever then!” And so without a second thought I did. Binita Gupta is 17 years old and is a twelfth-grader at the Illinois Math and Science Academy in Aurora, Illinois. She intends on majoring in Computer Science in college, and she wants to become a graphic designer, app developer, or web designer one day. Her favorite books are The Help by Kathryn Stockett, The Bell Jar by Sylvia Plath, and Amadeus by Peter Shaffer. In her free time, she likes to paint, bake cakes, play piano and violin, tutor, and read. Her other writings include fictional short stories and other poems. She is currently working on a series of poems about her travel experiences. At school, she is a Community Developer, a Lead Math tutor, a Writing Center tutor, and a facilitator for the school's Ethics program. 26 Rvbvjv w`‡q Blue Moon Bani Bhattacharyya, IL, USA a month in America when I was very busy working, taking care of my children and husband. I asked her at the airport before she left us, "Dear Mom, how did you like America?" 7/30/2015 Hearing the sound of the ringing telephone, I hurriedly answered. It was 10:00 p.m. "Mom, please watch the moon at 5:00 a.m. tomorrow morning. The blue moon will be closest to the earth at that time," my older son reminded me, calling from Boston. That was in 1989. She replied, "Everything is nice here and why shouldn't it be? After all, this is a rich country. But, I enjoyed the nice blue sky here the best, and the green grasses." 7/31/2015 I took her to see many malls, and many places, including Niagara Falls, while she was here. Surprised, I asked, "Why Mom? Every country shares the sky and the land of green grasses. What's different here?" If anything unusual, rather lucky or unlucky happens to me today, I can say that it happened "once in a blue moon." I woke up at 4:00 a.m. this morning. I went to the patio, looked at the beautiful full moon and the innumerable stars in the limitless grayish blue sky. I thanked God to be alive to enjoy the beauty of this vast universe. At my long lived age, and after so many years living here in the USA, I never before took the time to enjoy the beauty like I have today. I was always too busy keeping my mind occupied with worldly distractions. My adorable, petite beautiful seventy-twoyear old mother replied, "In India, fog and pollution stops me from seeing the beautiful sky reaching infinity or the limitless green grasses. In the crowded city of Calcutta, because of the population density, grasses don't grow. Due to fog and pollution, I never see the beautiful blue sky or the moon and stars." Since then, every time I see a clear starstudded sky and cool soft green grasses in my backyard, I think of her. Not even a high school graduate, my dear Mom was married at the age of fourteen, but how wise her words were about the world and human life! She truely enjoyed the beauty of nature, God's creation, instead of earthly treasures made and acquired by humans. This early morning is a very special today. It's the morning when I can see large beautiful blue moon appearing closer to the earth. According to NASA Science news, the term 'blue moon' is based on modern folklore, which signifies the second full moon in a calendar, a rare occurrence. Usually there is one full moon in a month. According to NASA the blue moon may not actually be blue; it originates from some particular kind of atmospheric dust. A blue moon occurred in the USA on August 2012, and it will not occur again until 2018. Now I think, I've been a fool. For such a long time, I haven't enjoyed that which I can get here for free, for my personal enjoyment and satisfaction. I was too busy with the materialistic world and looked for mental satisfaction in the wrong places. This morning I admired my Mom again and the true beauty in this world. Because of this beautiful phenomena, I thought of all the people I know and love. I remembered my mother's few words, which she uttered just before she left after visiting me once and she never returned. She stayed with me for just It reminds me of another saying, "Linger a while, so fair thou art.” 27 FLASH OF THOUGHT Calcutta Cuisine Balarka Banerjee, Sydney, Australia There has always been something a bit different in the air in Calcutta. And it's not just diesel fumes. It's something more internal, more in our blood. We Calcuttans have been exposed for a very long time to such diverse ethnic and period influences that we have evolved in a most intriguing fashion indeed. This makes us so frustratingly difficult to define, stereotype or type cast. Unleashed upon the rest of the country, and now the world, we tend to bewilder people by our contradictory, cross pollinated natures which shine through in everything we love and loath. While to us, the mutton loving Brahmin, the dhoti wearing Oxford accented gentleman, and rosogolla downing, pocket watch carrying communist seem like everyday characters they tend surprise people not entirely familiar with us. music and head towards dingy holes in the wall, stalls under blue tarp or familiarize one's self with the concept of sitting in a cabin (or to be more precise “kebin”). That is why, fine dining Calcutta style is more than just a meal. It's an expedition. An adventure. A search. And sometimes (not that often) a test of one's courage and gastric tenacity. If you ask a true Calcuttan where one can find the best rolls, or chilli chicken or kochuri they will invariably name same unusual unheard of place and give you a lengthy discourse on why that particular food from that particular place is inarguably the finest in the world. If you ask a second Calcuttan the same question he will give an entirely different answer and spend the next few hours arguing with the first chap. Therefore, it is impossible for my humble self to reach any sort of conclusion as to the “best in West Bengal”. It is equally infeasible for me to cover all of the mentioned culinary varieties that Calcutta has to offer. However, I will most certainly try to present some choice Calcutta cuisine that one might be somewhat less aware of. They say that the history of food is often the history of a people. Indeed, the eclectic mix of cultures (to be more precise “kalchars”) that is we Calcuttans, is reflected perfectly in the cuisine that we have so lovingly evolved over time. If we look closely, in Calcutta itself you can find culinary influences from Chinese, Tibetan, Thai, Afghan, British, Scottish, Irish, Armenian, Jewish, Burmese, Persian, Pakistani, Italian, French, Swiss and many other ethnicities. Add to this the varied national influences such as Punjabi, Sikkimese, Malayali, Goanese, Maharashtran, Hyderabadi, Gujarati and so on and you have an almost unending bouquet of variety. However, the best part about food in Calcutta is that that the best of it is often not found in the fancy restaurants, cafes or bistros that one would see and naturally be more familiar with. On the contrary, to truly experience the delights of Calcutta “cuisine” one would have to venture out of their comfort zones. Leave behind their air-conditoning, black tie waiters and ambient One of the great pillars of Calcutta snack food has to be the deceptively simple and absolutely mouth watering “roll”. Traditionally it consists of chicken or mutton kebab wrapped in paratha. On a hot tava, the paratha goes on first and bakes until it is crisp, golden and deliciously flaky. At this point a whipped egg might be poured onto the tava and carefully topped with the paratha. Once it cooks through the egg coated paratha is laid on its back and tender kebab pieces are laid in its bosom and wrapped up snuggly. The whole construction tastes delicious and is the perfect one handed snack. Never overstuffed and never under it goes down in minutes and leaves the taste buds begging for more. The history of the roll (or “kati roll”) is somewhat foggy and steeped in mythology. Its first 28 fantastic job indeed. Some choice ones are “Kusum”, “Hot Kati Rolls” (on Park Street, below the Asiatic Society building, you can't miss the aroma when you drive past), Campari, Beduin (Gariahat), Badshah (New Market) and Dhaba (Ballygunge Road). My personal favourite however is a little hole in the wall at the end of Theatre Road (Shakespeare Sarani), opposite the Sahara building. Their mutton rolls are simply addictive. appearances can be traced back to as early as 1932 in Calcutta. Nizam's is widely credited with the invention of the kati roll as we know it today. Legend has it that on a particularly busy night the restaurant was running out of plates as there was a long string of orders for paratha and kebab. Which is when somebody came up with the ingenious idea of wrapping the two together, thus eliminating the need of plates altogether. Nizam's has always prided itself on serving, the best, the most original and unadulterated rolls in town. In the golden years of 60's and 70's its fame was widespread and it was as much a landmark in central Calcutta as New Market or Globe cinema. A massively built Afghan man used to roam the streets around the cinemas in the evening particularly on the weekends. Known as “pehelwan” he would come up to people as they parked their cars for the evening show and took their orders for kati rolls. Sure enough, he would arrive with them, warm in his hands just before the show would start. “Pehelwan” is long gone now and so has a lot of the charm of Nizam's. Despite several other places where you can get a roll now there is still something special about a Nizam's roll. Sure they may have had to make concessions by selling paneer rolls and downsizing considerably, but the elderly lungi clad mullah who makes them still looks as gruff as ever. He gets snappy if you start asking too many questions about the spices and once snatched away a roll from a friend of mine who requested him for some chilli sauce. Old fashioned Mughlai food has been a mainstay of Calcutta for a fairly long time. When the Mughal kings ruled Bengal, the rich aromatic meat dominated cuisine was widely prevalent but perhaps not as popular among the locals. With the conquest of Bengal and the fall of Shiraj-ud-Dullah that type of cuisine diminished quite a bit and was restricted to certain pockets of society only. However, after the failed revolt of 1857 the last Mughal king in Delhi, Bahadur Shah Zafar, was chased out of the capital. He fled to Calcutta with the remnants of his family and staff and was ultimately exiled to Yangoon, where he died soon after. However, most of his staff, servants, and cooks stayed behind in Calcutta. By that time, the people of Calcutta itself had changed into a more versatile, cosmopolitan and open minded breed. It is believed that the highly trained cooks of the food loving Bahadur Shah revived the Mughlai cuisine in Calcutta in the late 19th Century. Many of the older Calcutta restaurants and eateries are said to have been started by them and has shaped Calcutta's love for its unique style of Mughlai cuisine. The roll itself has been corrupted gradually over repeated copying and modification. In some places, the filling is not kebabs anymore, and has been substituted by a spicy curry like mess. A number of condiments go in the rolls itself, such as cucumbers, capsicum, tomatoes, chilli sauce, ketchup, and chutneys. “Arsalan” in Park Circus even makes a roll with Cheddar cheese. Not that there is anything wrong with that. I personally adore the double egg chicken roll from Anamika (a road side stall in New Alipore) which is as corrupted as it gets but is the one of juiciest, tastiest rolls you will ever have. Nonetheless there are many of the traditionalists still left and they do a The mainstay of Mughlai cuisine is the Biryani. Biryani is fragrant long grained rice, slow cooked with goat meat, potatoes and the key ingredient, saffron among other spices in ghee. It is the very epitome of the sinful decadence of the Mughal empire. Unlike some of the more derivative versions, original Biryani is cooked with a surprisingly few number of ingredients and almost always with goat meat. The Calcutta biryani, is satisfyingly similar to its more authentic 29 is hard to find. One of the best kabiraji cutlets I have tasted comes from a restaurant on M.G. road called “Dilkhusha”. Last time I was there, they claimed to be the originator of the dish. Although details are specky they believe it was created for the British palate in the early 1900's. The name had always mystified me as “kabiraji” in Bengali refers to herbal medication. I could not make the connection between cutlet and herbal drugs except for the fact that overindulgence of the former would definitely require the latter. But I was told by the owner of Dilkhusha (mira-di, if I recall correctly) that the original name was coverage cutlet (referring to the egg white coating) which devolved into kabiraji in the local dialect. As a matter fact, it was called “fowl kabiraji cutlet” on their menu for many many years and that too was replaced by “chicken kabiraji”. Lucknow or Agra counterparts and is absolutely delicious. People have gone to war over which Biriyani in the city rules supreme so that is not a controversy I want to get into. However, it suffices to say that most of the best biriyani can be found at the crossing of Park Street and AJC bose road. Rahmania, Lucknow and Shiraz are located right there. As a matter of fact, that is the start to something a “biriyani strip” in the city which stretches up to Park Circus. Next time you are there, try it with some “chicken chaap” and definitely ask for some of the digesive yoghurt-mint drink to wash it down. On the subject of Mughlai, one must mention the Bengali equivalent of “comfort food”, Moglai paratha. The origins of this delicacy is quite vague but it sounds like another brilliant kati roll like deviation. This is basically minced meat and whipped egg stuffed into flaky white bread. Served with a salad of red onions. It is fairly tricky to make so a good moglai paratha is hard to come by, but one place that has mastered this delicacy is Anadi Cabin on Jawaharlal Nehru road (just two clicks from Esplanade). Their absolutely divine preparation ensures that you will almost never be able to find a seat there upon arrival. If you haven't eaten at Anadi Cabin you have missed out on a Calcutta institution no less significant than the Victoria Memorial. While there, try the pudding. Trust me, it's not what you would expect. As far as meat cutlets go, I must mention “afghani cutlet” at the college street coffee house. I will refrain from discussing the coffee house itself, because volumes can be written about its tradition, heritage and ambience. Little is usually discussed about its food or drink. Perhaps rightly so because I personally believe their coffee tastes like flavoured rain water. Nonetheless, the afghani cutlet must be mentioned. It's a mutton cutlet the size of one's palm but cooked with some unusual spice combination and most notable, raisins, currants and nuts. Overall it has a sweet and salty flavor, which is quite unique and is served with a slightly runny gravy which soaks up nicely in some bread. Let's move on to something a bit more international namely British. The “chop cutlet” culture of Calcutta is somewhat unique. Definitely a delicious Raj hangover. But don't expect the rather mild and insipid meat preparation of the UK. The chop cutlets of Calcutta have been changed so greatly that it has been completely emancipated from its heritage. With delectable results. These are rich, fiery, spicy and complicated affairs. Apart from the usual mutton, chicken and prawn you also get some unusual ones. Such as the kabiraji cutlet, a chicken cutlet with a whipped egg coating that gives it a furry golden look and a delicious crunchy texture. This too is a rare delicacy. There are several imposters and copy cats around, the genuine article If the presi/CU crowd claims dominion over the mutton afghani, the Jadavapur gang brandish their “dhoper chop” in reply. Milonda's canteen came up with the treat (whose name in colloquial Bengali translates to “rubbish”). It's half a boiled egg and half an ambiguous (but tasty) filling, coated in breadcrumbs and fried. May not sound like much but it does taste delectable. Instead of mutton and chicken if you prefer fish then you must try the fish fry and possibly the fish roll. The fish fry is traditionally seasoned bhetki coated in breadcrumbs and deepfried. The 30 is where you go for the real thing. There is a Chinese street market at Tiretta bazaar on Bentinck Street. It sets up at around 5:30 am and is sold out by seven. It is not strange or surprising for Calcuttans to stay up all night, clubbing, driving or simply sitting around indulging in adda. When the night seems to inexplicably disappear and your friends start feeling hungry, it's time to hit Tiretta Bazaar. Street vendors mostly sell homemade traditional Chinese food. There are light soothing broths with fish ball or chicken feet. There are heavier schezuan broths which can lift the top of your head right off but works great against a hangover. Then there are steamed buns, dumblings and spicy sausages. The smells and sounds are intoxicating and its seediness as its charm and somehow only in Calcutta does it not seem unusual to be starting a Sunday morning like this. fish roll is more creative. It's a bhetki fillet rolled around a stuffing made out of another pureed and seasoned fish flesh (usually carp). Also coated in breadcrumbs and deep fried. Both of these are hard to find in their nascent forms. Cheaper copies tend to be heavy on seasoning and lean on fish. The undoubted leader for both is “Bijoligrill”, originally located near Bijoli cinema in Bhowanipore. They are also a premium caterer for marriages and other social functions so next time you are in Calcutta try to get yourself invited to an upmarket wedding. Tibetan food has caught on off late in Calcutta and is the newest addition to the Calcutta snack cuisine smorgasboard. Momo's are Tibetan dumplings made off a garlicy meat stuffing, best enjoyed with a hot chilli sauce and a light springonion soup called thupka. A few Tibetan families had started the trend decades ago when they used to make these momo's in their own kitchen and sell packets of them well informed foodies out of their living room. One of the better known of these families lived on Elgin road. As the elderly family moved on, the place was converted into a restaurant which soon became a series of restaurants. The better known of these is Momo Plaza which is located of street now known as Suburban Hospital Road. The décor is shoddy (almost scary), the tables and chairs are weak but the food is to die for. They serve momo's and a lot of them. There is the classic steamed ones or the tastier fried ones and then a lot of evolved ones culminating in the “panfried chilli momo's” which is only for the brave of heart. For more authentic Chinese food one must always venture to Tangra. That is no secret at all. Although there are quite a few more mainstream restaurants there now, there are still a few old fashioned ones, which we always seek out. When you go to those, the cook-cum-waiter takes your order. He brings you some beers and you are expected to take your time with them as he goes around back to catch a chicken for your chilli chicken. It's plucked, skinned and cooked right in front of you. Just be careful when you order “one chilli chicken please” as it can actually be an entire chicken cooked for you. Like almost every type of food, Chinese in Calcutta has evolved and changed, adapting itself to the local palate and ingredients. Now, there is a Chinese restaurant on every corner and road side stalls will toss up chow-mein, chilli chicken and fried rice alongside egg-rolls. If you can put aside puritan tastes then you might just indulge in and enjoy some of the local Chinese. I for one love my “hakka chowmein” with its strong pepper seasoning. Chinese food in Calcutta has developed its own language. “Hakka chow” means dry noodles whereas “gravy chow” is cornflour thickened gravy poured over boiled noodles. “Chilli” refers to a dry dish with a thick soy based gravy with finely chopped green chillies. Chinese food in Calcutta has also been a long tradition. It is now so well assimilated into Bengali food habits now that it is sometimes impossible to think of it as foreign. As a matter of fact, Indian style Chinese food is now widely accepted as a style unique and singular like Singaporean or Malaysian Chinese. It all started, from a group of Chinese immigrants, predominantly from the Hakka and Cantonese provinces, who settled in a part of Calcutta known as Tiretta Bazaar. Even today that 31 ginger ale and lemonade punch, mango tea, grapefruit tea and even one with soda and a dollop of ice-cream. Nonetheless, one of the most refreshing and unique drinks I have ever tasted is “daaber shorbot” at “Paradise” behind college square. The place has been there forever and they make a number of soda or milk shake type drinks. “Daaber shorbot” is an unique blend though made from coconut water mixed with possibly some mint, dash of lime and other things which makes it one of the most refreshing drinks I have ever had. “Manchurian” usually refers to meat or veggies fried in a coating and dipped in a hot and sweet sauce. So next time you are in Kolkata, give the big boys like Mainland China, or Chinoiserie a pass and try out the Manchurian chicken and sweet corn soup at your dimly lit neighbourhood joint. You might just like it. The repressive humidity of Calcutta usually takes its toll on people and staying hydrated is very important indeed. Which brings us to beverages. These days with surfeit of Coffee houses it is difficult to see beyond the 50 rupee mochas, cocoas, lattes or the smoothies, slushies and crushies. I have never been a big fan of these establishments and despite their fancy décor the coffee usually still tastes like dishwater. The places are good for teenagers on first dates but if you want a real drink to pick you up, you should try the tea at Balwant's. This pre-independence dhaba on Harish Mukherjee Road (opposite the gurudwara) serves over a thousand portions of Punjabi milk tea a day. Their secret (although probably not the real one) is that they never expose the tea to direct heat. Leaves in a pouch are immersed in boiling water. Once infused, milk is added and the whole thing is placed in a water bath. Regardless of the procedure, the final product is pure elixir. However, if you fancy a more sophisticated tea drinking experience, you must try Dolly's tea house in Dakshinapan. Started by India's first woman tea taster this place has a relaxed, typically Calcutta feel. The tea itself is unique. Not only can you get some cup of the regular stuff you can experiment with fruit blends, So there we have it. A small sampling of the vast and complicated variety of flavours and aromas that is Calcutta cuisine. The list is by no means complete or comprehensive. I have made absolutely no mention of Putiram's telebhaja, Ujjala chanachur, the alurdom off Viviekananda park, the phuchkas at Maidan, kosha mangsho from Golbari, phulkopir singhara, mochar chop from Aponjon, dahi vada, mishti doi, rosogolla, or notun gurer shondesh. Alas, they must be saved for another time. However, the lesson here my friends is that the best food in Calcutta is never where you would expect to find it. Just as most things Bengali, nothing is as it seems. The dingiest, darkest, dirtiest corners of this mad city hide the most mind expanding food you will ever taste. Deep fried in tradition, seasoned with mythology and garnished by a dash of bewildering charm, the food of Calcutta is more than hunger quencher. It's an experience. 32 †fvR Kq hvnv‡i l¡æ¡O­l ¢hnÄ¡ue — ®i¡S Lu k¡q¡­l l¡æ¡ Hhw M¡Ju¡ ®k ®L¡e pwú«¢al HL¢V ¢h­no Awn z M¡cÉl¢pL ¢q­p­h h¡P¡m£l MÉ¡¢a B­R z A¢ih¡p£ h¡P¡m£ ¢h­c­nl j¡¢V­aJ a¡l M¡cÉ¡iÉ¡p d­l ®l­M­R z ®cnL¡­ml ag¡­a l¡æ¡l fÜ¢a h¡ EfLl­Z pw­k¡¢Sa q­u­R ¢LR¥ ea¥e B¢‰L z ¢L¿¹¥ hS¡u B­R j§m ü¡c¢V z Bl ®pV¡C A¢ih¡p£­cl l¡æ¡O­ll °h¢nøÉ z j¡ W¡L¥j¡l j¤¢sO¾V, ®j¡Q¡l Qf h¡ g¥mL¢fl ¢pP¡s¡ BSJ °al£ q­µR A¢ih¡p£ h¡P¡m£l l¡æ¡O­l låefËZ¡m£ AÒfüÒf Acmhcm L­l z a­h "h¡wm¡ Bj¡l p­oÑ C¢mn ¢Qw¢s L¢Q m¡E' — h¡wm¡ Bl h¡P¡m£ l¡æ¡u ®k¡N ¢e¢hs z A¢ih¡p£ HL h¡P¡m£, A­eÄo¡l l¡æ¡Ol ®b­L ¢LR¥ ®l¢p¢f Hh¡l Bfe¡­cl L¡­R ¢e­u Hm¡j Bjl¡ z Bfe¡l¡J ¢e­u Bp¤¤e Bfe¡­cl fR­¾cl ®l¢p¢f — e¡e¡ ®c­nl, h¡ HLC ®c­nl e¡e¡ A’­ml, i¡N L­l ¢ee Bj¡­cl p­‰ z lpe¡l f¢la«¢ç e¡ q­m S£heV¡C ®ke ¢hü¡c q­u J­W z ¢WL ¢Le¡ ? Recipe Annyasha Mukherjee Roy, Minnesota, USA LAU CHAPRA GHONTO Ingredients: Grated Lau or green gourd-1pc, Methi (fenugreek) seeds, Kalonji or black cumin seeds, Red dry chillies-3, bay leaves, two handful of yellow split chanadaal soaked overnight until it get swollen, salt according to taste, baking powder (optional), turmeric powder, ginger paste, Asofoetida or hing, sugar, red chilli powder, mustard oil or canola oil, ghee. Procedure of Making Chanakabab: Drain the water from chanadaal and then paste the daal in grinder. Pour the daal paste in a vessel and then add a pinch of hing, turmeric powder, green chilli cut into pieces, baking powder, red chilli powder, salt and sugar according to taste, and lastly add Luke warm oil and then mix it well. Form a shape of flat kabab and then deep fry it. Procedure of Making Sabji: Add oil to a kadai and once the oil is heated , then add methi seeds, kalanji, red dry chilli, and bay leaves. The add grated lau in that, stir it well for 5 minutes and then cover it with lid. After 5 minutes take off the lid and add salt, sugar, red chilli powder and green chilli, stir for 7 minutes. Then put the lid on and cook for 15 minutes. Open the lid after 15 minutes and then smash the chanakababs with hand mix in the curry and cook another 2-3 minutes. Add ghee and ginger paste cook for another 2-3 minutes.To be served with rice. Total time required is 30 minutes. SOYA CROQUETTE Ingredients: Soya bean keema, bread, cheese slice, egg (optional), cornflour, bread crumbs, onion finely chopped, soyasauce, garlic chopped, ginger chopped and a bit of paste, bell pepper, red chilli powder, green chillies finely chopped, Maggie hot and sweet sauce, sriracha sauce, chilli sauce (optional), salt, white oil, ghee. Soya could be boiled and then make chunks by grinding it. Soya keema chilly: Add white oil in kadai, once the oil is heated add onion slices, chopped garlic, ginger and bell pepper. Fry until onion becomes slightly brown. Prepare a mixture of soya sauce, hot and sweet sauce, sriracha sauce, chilli sauce, salt, red chilli powder and water. Then add this mixture to the kadai and cook for 5 minutes. Then add the soya chunks, cook it and then keep it aside. Preparing the batter- take 2 eggs, cornflour according to the amount, and water and mix it. This is the batter for the croquette. Croquette- Breads are soaked a bit with water and then removed the brown part of it. Then roll the cooked soya chunks with bread and take a slice of cheese, roll it and deep it in batter and then cover with bread crumbs, and then deep fry in canola oil mixed with ghee. This is served hot with sauce. COCONUT PATTIES Ingredients: Grated coconut, onion finely chopped, white flour or maida, ghee, canola oil, luke arm water, salt. Preparation: To make the dough take maida, add a pinch of salt, ghee, a bit of oil and water and then make a dough. Then form the shape of poori or kachori using the dough and then add grated coconut, chopped onion and chopped chilly to cover all sides of the poori (like Mughlai paratha) and then deep fry in mixed oil and ghee. Serve hot with sauce. CHEESE PARATHA Ingredients: Grated cheese, chaat masala, sahmarich (white pepper), amchur powder (optional), maida, butter, luke warm water, salt, finely chopped onion and finely chopped green chillies. Preparation: At first, make a dough of maida with salt, butter, lukewarm water and then make a shape of a round ball from dough. Now mix chaat masala, grated cheese, amchur powder, sahmarich, chopped onion, chopped green chilli, and make a shape of paratha; add a bit of maida powder and then deep fry in oil. Serve hot with daam aloo. 33 “If you cry because the sun has gone out of your life, your tears will prevent you from seeing the stars.” – Rabindranath Tagore "" c§­ll hå¥ p¤¤­ll c§a£­l f¡W¡­m¡ ®a¡j¡l O­l ¢jmeh£Z¡ ®k q©c­ul j¡­T h¡­S ah A­N¡Q­l z j­el Lb¡¢V ®N¡f­e ®N¡f­e h¡a¡­p h¡a¡­p ®i­p B­p j­e, h­e Efh­e, hL¥mn¡M¡l Q’ma¡u jjÑ­l jjÑ­l z ''