Chiang Mai Destination Guide Contents Contents Quick Facts About Chiang Mai Events & Nightlife Top Destinations Tours & Activities Food & Dining Out Shopping Best Time To Visit Travel Tips 2 3 4 5 10 13 15 18 19 20 Quick Facts Flying Time: 11 hours 30 minutes Currency: Thai Baht Language: Thai - English quite widely spoken Time Zone: GMT+7 Visit For: Safari & Wildlife, Culture, Architecture, Shopping, Trekking, Spa 3 About Chiang Mai Rightfully trumpeted as Thailand's 'Rose of the North', Chiang Mai is an alluring city brimming with glittering temples, enticing jungle, mouth-watering street food and the bustle of lively markets. As the gateway to the Thai hills, Chiang Mai has grown far beyond the medieval city walls that once marked it as the original capital of the northern Lanna Kingdom. Still, its temple-lined backstreets conjure up the glory of the great Thai dynasties and it remains a city steeped in culture and tradition. Today, ancient shrines and traditional wooden houses jostle for space with boutique hotels, stylish restaurants and trendy bars as Thailand's second city begins to attract a heady mixture of creative college students, high-spirited expats and wide-eyed travellers with its welcoming customs and laidback pace of life. Where else in Thailand can you watch the sun rise from a jungle hilltop, indulge in a world-class massage, sip handcrafted cappuccinos and chat meditation with Buddhist monks before ending the night by dancing to live music by the river? It doesn't matter if you're haggling handmade souvenirs at daily markets, learning to cook at a countryside retreat or exploring Chiang Mai's verdant forests, visiting the city will hardly trouble the bank. With so much to keep visitors amused, it's tempting to just stay in the city but seasoned travellers will want to get out of urban hubbub and experience the region's exotic scenery, traditional Thai handicrafts and abundance of adrenaline activities. Trekking to the villages of Thailand's hill tribes has become one of the quintessential travel experiences from Chiang Mai. Other thrills include elephant rides, mountain biking, white-water rafting, rock climbing expeditions and zip-wiring through the rainforest canopy. So whether you're looking for a relaxing getaway, some much-needed cultural immersion, an exciting adventure or a little of all three, Chiang Mai is a city that's sure to bewitch. 4 Events & Nightlife See the list of exciting Events taking place in Chiang Mai, as well as the varied Nightlife on offer Events Chiang Mai New Year Countdown From: 31-12-2014 To: 01-01-2015 Free. The largest New Year celebration in Northern Thailand, Chiang Mai's New Year Countdown revolves around good food with a large food festival with culinary representatives from all over the world. The streets are lined with numerous food vendors leaving revellers with no chance of having to party on an empty stomach. Visitors can enjoy a range of musical performances before the climactic fireworks show on the stroke of midnight. Venue Name: Various venues in Chiang Mai Chiang Mai Flower Festival From: 05-02-2015 To: 08-02-2015 A three-day carnival celebrating the vibrant blooms cultivated in the hills around Chiang Mai, centred on a grand parade of flower-adorned floats. Venue Name: Various locations. Chiang Mai Arts and Culture Festival From: 01-04-2015 To: 09-04-2015 Free. Over a period of nine days, visitors are invited to get better acquainted with the region's burgeoning arts scene through a packed programme of events and entertainments. The activities range from traditional music and dance performances to more contemporary art installations and exhibitions. Other attractions and events include food exhibitions, children's puppet shows, handicraft exhibitions and workshops. The event was first held in 1996 to celebrate Her Royal Highness Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn's birthday which coincides with the Thai Cultural Heritage Preservation Day. The event has grown in popularity every year since to become one of the region's leading arts and culture events. Venue Name: Throughout Chiang Mai City and Chiang Mai province Poy Sang Long From: 04-04-2015 To: 06-04-2015 Young Shan men are paraded through Chiang Mai dressed in flamboyant robes, before being ordained as Buddhist monks. Venue Name: Through the city. 5 Inthakin From: 10-05-2015 To: 17-05-2015 To ensure the arrival of the monsoon, the Buddha statue from Wat Chedi Luang is paraded through the streets and showered with scented water by enthusiastic crowds. Venue Name: Throughout the city. Loi Krathong / Yi Peng From: 06-11-2015 To: 06-11-2015 On the evening of the full moon, fireworks light up the banks of the River Ping, while candles are floated downstream and paper hot-air balloons fill the sky. Venue Name: River Ping. Nightlife Chiang Mai nightlife is focused on three main areas: travellers gathering at the bars around Thanon Moon Muang and Thanon Ratvithi in the old city; locals preferring the scene on Thanon Nimmanhemin; and everyone coming together at the music venues along the River Ping. Chiang Mai has live music everywhere, from restaurants and bars to clubs and hotels, while the city's gay scene is centred on the sois (side streets) off Thanon Chotana. Citylife heads up the free magazines with information on local events and culture in Chiang Mai. Most can be found in hotel lobbies as well as cafés and restaurants geared toward travellers. Useful websites include One Stop Chiang Mai and Chiang Mai Mail . Beer Republic In Thailand, visitors can end up drinking a lot of watery lager or local whiskey, but at Beer Republic, in the happening Nimmanhaemin area, they offer over 15 international beers on tap with an emphasis on Belgian and German brews. Food here is an eclectic mix of Thai dishes, pasta, salads and beer house staples like sausages and burgers. If you're staying in Chiang Mai for a while, look into becoming a member of their Chiang Mai Beer Club. Thanon Nimmamhaemin Soi 11 Chiang Mai 50200 +66 53 216 568. Sangdee Gallery This non-profit gallery highlights local and international talent in its rotating exhibitions while also hosting weekly live music, workshops, film events and more. The Thursday evening open mic night is popular with Chiang Mai's expat crowd and a good way to get off the beaten tourist track and enjoy a glass of wine with some tunes. The brave can take to the stage. Proceeds help to support the local arts community. 5 Sirimankalajarn Soi 5 Chiang Mai 50200 +66 53 894 955. JingJai Market 6 If you want a local experience, head to the area off the northeast side of the moat known as JJ Market. Here you won't find any other tourists, but a number of funky outdoor bars lined up one right after another filled with young Thais chatting over bottles of Chang and Sangsom. Most places have beer promotions, usually three bottles for a special price, and whiskey sets that come with your choice of tipple, a bucket of ice and mixers. Thanon Atsadathon Chiang Mai 50300 +66 53 231 5205. The Goodview Bar and Restaurant Home to a mainly Thai crowd (though the tourists are trickling in), The Good View Bar and Restaurant is a great spot to grab a drink and people watch for a while. Though it's a large space, it tends to fill up, with the riverside tables going first. Like The Riverside, an iconic restaurant down the street, there are Thai cover bands singing their heart out nightly. 9-11 Thanon Charoenrat Chiang Mai 50000 +66 5324 3239. Old Chiangmai Cultural Center Historically reserved as a special ceremony for honoured guests, Chiang Mai's traditional khantoke dinners are a social event where diners share a family-style sampling of Northern Thai dishes, whilst enjoying customary entertainment and dances. At the Old Chiangmai Cultural Center, visitors are introduced to Chiang Mai's history and culture by experiencing a full meal accompanied by elaborate Lanna and hill tribe shows. 185/3 Thanon Wualai Chiang Mai 50100 +66 53 202 9935. Warm Up Cafe One of Chiang Mai's most popular night-time haunts, there's always something going on at Warm Up Cafe. The venue is a bar, restaurant, club and live music spot with several different sections to choose from. So whether you want to dance inside to a DJ or watch a Thai ska band outdoors, travellers will mingle with college students and the wealthy and trendy of Chiang Mai. There's often the odd Thai celebrity up from Bangkok too. 40 Thanon Nimmanhaemin Chiang Mai 50200 +66 53 400 677. North Gate Jazz Co-Op Though there's live music each evening, the Tuesday night jam sessions at North Gate Jazz CoOp draw some of the biggest crowds with patrons spilling into the street trying to soak up the sounds. There's something about the live music here that brings all groups together and here you'll find travellers and expats mixing with locals of all ages – not something you see at other bars. The music usually starts between 2100-2200 but come earlier to snag a seat. Thanon Sriphum Chiang Mai 50200 THC Rooftop Bar A major backpacker hangout, THC Rooftop Bar is actually one of the only nosebleed drinking holes in Chiang Mai. Up a narrow set of steep stairs you'll find an alternate universe filled with black lights, Day-Glo murals, thumping music, buckets of booze and barefoot travellers sprawled across pillows on the floor. Located just across from Tha Pae Gate, and painted in red, yellow and green, you can't miss the bar's entrance and live DJ music blaring out onto the street. 7 Thanon Kotchasarn Anantara Chiang Mai Bar & Cigar Lounge If you're feeling classy, head to the gorgeous Anantara Chiang Mai hotel (formerly known at the Chedi) for tapas and an early evening drink or a late night sip and cigar at the hotel's Bar & Cigar Lounge. The saloon is set near the river in a colonial-style house that was originally the first British Consulate in Chiang Mai. While prices are what you'd expect from a 5-star hotel, the sophisticated atmosphere and excellent drinks are well worth it for a special occasion. 123-123/1 Thanon Charoen Prathet Road Chiagn Mai 50100 +66 53 253 333. The U.N. Irish Bar A favourite among older expats and travellers, The U.N. Irish Pub offers standard Western pub fare and, naturally, Guinness on tap. The comfortable two-story bar also has a small outdoor beer garden and is mad about sports - you'll always find a sign out front listing what games will be shown. Come for a homemade burger or pie or stop by on Thursday evenings to participate in the popular, and surprisingly challenging, quiz night upstairs. 24-24/1 Thanon Ratvithi Chiang Mai 50200 +66 53 214 554. Freedom Bar Connected to Giant Guest House 2 in the old city, Freedom Bar is a small, low-key reggae bar that's great for relaxing and chatting with friends. Ask to see if the upstairs deck is open and climb up to sit on pillows outside above the streets. Drinks are moderately priced, and average quality, so stick with beer or whiskey and slowly sip the night away whilst listening to the easy going chatter of other guests and Bob Marley singing in the background. Thanon Rachapakhinai Chiang Mai 50200 +66 53 227 338. Documentary Arts Asia A non-profit organization supporting photography and film that tell the stories of Asia, Documentary Arts Asia runs a number of workshops, training program and exhibitions. Locals, artists and expats gather at the centre every Thursday for free documentary screenings and on Monday for special cinema nights, both starting around 1900. The laidback atmosphere is always inviting as people mingle, grab and drink and settle down to enjoy the show. 12/7 Wualai Road Soi 3 Chiang Mai 50100 +66 88 138 7470. Zoe in Yellow Though Zoe in Yellow is a specific bar, it's also the name often used for the busy corner of drinking holes at Thanon Ratvithi and Thanon Rachapakhinai. Located close to the city's cheapest guesthouses and hostels, the area is party central for young expats and locals as well as the backpacker bunch. While there's often live music earlier in the evening, especially at the nearby reggae bars, by the end of the night it's one big dance party with DJs and thumping bass. Thanon Rativithi Chiang Mai 50100 +66 84 222 9388. Infinity 8 Chiang Mai's trendiest club, Infinity, is located off Thanon Nimmanhaemin and is a hit with the young Thai crowd. There are a few indoor and outdoor areas, including a stage and large dancefloor, with DJs and live music (mainly Thai bands) providing the entertainment. Probably the closest thing you'll find to a Western-style club in Chiang Mai, if you want to dance, this is one of the best places to do it, although the Thais are likely to simply stand around and look cool. Thanon Nimmanhaemin Soi 6 Chiang Mai Ansuarn Market Ladyboy Show Head to Ansuarn Market at the Night Bazaar on Thanon Chang Khlan for a clever cabaret performed by lady boys. Thailand's version of a drag show, the cabaret is filled with glittery sets, bright lights, sparkling costumes, fake eyelashes, questionable lip syncing and sexual innuendoes. The show, set in a bar at the back of the market, usually starts around 2200, but if you're there earlier you'll see the performers already dressed up at the market entrance enticing visitors to watch. Thanon Chang Khlan Chiang Mai 50100 9 Top Destinations Nimmanhaemin Neighborhood Want to know where all the cool kids are? Look no further than the area surrounding Nimmanhaemin Road. Thanks to its close proximity to Chiang Mai University and its popularity among expats and 'digital nomads', Nimmanheamin is the place to see and be seen. With its growing collection of trendy bars, artisan coffee shops and quirky boutiques, the neighbourhood has become an attraction in itself. Wander the little sois (streets) off the main drag for plenty of photo opportunities (a giant Godzilla here, a funny store facade there) as you never know what you'll come across. Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: Yes Address: Thanon Nimmanhaemin Chiang Mai 50200 Wat Sri Suphan If you're starting to think that all of Thailand's temples look the same, hold off until you've seen Wat Sri Suphan. Located just off Thanon Wualai, this holy spot sits around the historical home of the city's silver craftsmen. In an attempt to keep the tradition alive, Wat Sri Suphan is set to be the world's first all silver shrine. Skilfully hammered, intricate metalwork designs can be seen to the right of the main building, while over the over side of the complex is an onsite workshop where artists are working away. Opening Times: Daily 0600-2200. Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: Yes Address: Thanon Wualai Chiang Mai 50100 Telephone: +66 53 200 332. Website: https://watsrisuphan.com Chiang Mai City Arts & Cultural Centre More than 700 years ago, Chiang Mai was the capital of the north. While much has changed, the city's importance and influence has continued through the years. For anyone interested in better understanding the region and its history, the Chiang Mai City Arts & Cultural Centre (located behind the Three Kings statue) is the place to start. Situated in an attractive building, smack-dab in the centre of the Old City, the museum was built in 1924 and offers visitors a look into the city's past, as well as explanations and demonstrations about northern Thailand's Lanna culture. Opening Times: Tue-Sun 0830-1700. Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes Address: Thanon Phra Pokkloa Chiang Mai 50200 Telephone: +66 53 217 793. Website: https://www.cmocity.com/indexEng.html Huay Kaew Waterfall 10 There are several waterfalls in the area, but the most accessible is Huay Kaew Waterfall at the foot of Suthep Mountain. It's also one of the only waterfalls with free access. Not as stunning as some other locations around, it's still an enjoyable spot to wander around and get a little off the beaten path. Spend a day walking by the waterfall and taking a dip in the stream with locals. There is also a restaurant near the entrance that serves basic Thai food. Opening Times: Tue-Sun 0800-1700. Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: No Address: Thanon Huay Kaew (at the base of the mountain) Chiang Mai 50200 Telephone: +66 53 210 244. Wat Chedi Luang This central temple boasts a giant, partially-ruined chedi (stupa), which was reduced from 90m (295ft) tall to just 60m (197ft) by an earthquake in 1545. Formerly covered in bronze plates and gold leaf, it was home to the famous Emerald Buddha for 80 years before the statue was transferred to Bangkok. Parts of the chedi were restored in the early 1990s, but the new additions are easy to spot amongst the original stuccowork. The temple is one of the most important in Chiang Mai, housing the venerated city pillar, and home to several local festivals and Buddhist celebrations throughout the year. Opening Times: Daily 0500-2230. Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: Yes Address: 103 Thanon King Prajadhipok Chiang Mai 50200 Telephone: +66 53 276 140. Wat Phra Singh The defining example of traditional Lanna architecture in Chiang Mai, Wat Phra Singh takes its name from the revered 'Lion Buddha' statue enshrined inside the viharn (prayer hall) at the back of the monastery compound that is said to have come to Thailand from Sri Lanka. The walls of Wat Phra Singh are lavishly decorated with stucco angels, intricate glass mosaics, gold stencil-work and murals of Thai legends, and the compound also contains an elegant raised library and an imposing chedi (stupa) which was constructed in 1345. Wat Phra Singh is one of the most respected temples in Chiang Mai and the temple grounds house many buildings, shrines and meditation gardens. Opening Times: Daily 0600-2230. Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes Address: Intersection of Thanon Ratchadamnoen at Thanon Samlan Chiang Mai 50200 Wat Phra That Doi Suthep No trip to Chiang Mai would be complete without a visit to Wat Phra Thai Doi Suthep, a temple on Suthep Mountain with a glittering, golden chedi (stupa). Legend has it that in 1371, an elephant had been carrying an important relic (believed to be Buddha's shoulder bone) up the mountain for three days before it collapsed. Its exhausted body marked the spot where this Buddhist temple would be built. In its glory, it is one of the most ornate and impressive religious shrines in Thailand and offers views overlooking the city and surrounding hills. 11 Opening Times: Daily 0530-2000. Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes Address: Thanon Sriwichai, Doi Suthep-Pui National Park Chiang Mai 50000 Telephone: +66 53 295 012. Huay Tung Tao A manmade reservoir at the base of Suthep Mountain, Huay Tung Tao is the ideal getaway from the buzz of the city. Surrounded by green hills and misty clouds, you'd never know you're less than 30 minutes from Chiang Mai's centre. Here you can wander the walking and biking trails, lounge in a lakeside bungalow or simply soak up the scenery. Huay Tung Tao is a local favourite, especially on the weekends, so visit during the week if you like your breathing space. The reservoir is a little too far to reach by tuk-tuk but you should be able to take a songthaew (shared taxi) here. Opening Times: Daily 0730-1800. Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes Address: 107 Canal Road Mae Rim 50180 Telephone: +66 53 121 119. Talat Ton Lamyai Facing the Mae Ping River on the east side of town, Talat Ton Lamyai is Chiang Mai's open air flower market. Certainly worth a morning or evening stroll, you can even go in the middle of the night to see sellers unloading freshly cut flowers from trucks and making the elaborate floral wreaths you see decorating temples and spirit houses. There are a few floral shops specialising in arrangements, but for the most part visitors simply gawk at the never-ending bunches of roses, marigolds, orchids and jasmine blossoms sitting by the side of the street. Opening Times: Daily 24 hours Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: Yes Address: Thanon Praisanee (starting at the corner with Thanon Chiang Moi) Chiang Mai 50300 Chiang Mai Zoo A children crowd pleaser, this impressive gathering of thousands of different birds and animals set in pleasant grounds at the foot of Suthep Mountain began as a small collection of missionary family pets. Today you can see elephants, lions, giraffes and tigers as well as pandas from China, just by walking through the park or making use of the tram and monorail system. There is also an aquarium housing nearly 2,000 species of marine animals and a snow dome that creates a winter wonderland in the midst of Thailand's tropical heat. Entrance fees apply to the aquarium and different section of the zoo. Opening Times: Daily 0800-1700. Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: No Address: 100 Thanon Huay Kaew Chiang Mai 50200 Telephone: +66 53 210 374. 12 Tours & Activities The Mae Sa and Mae Tang Valleys Deeper into the hills north of Chiang Mai, the Mae Sa and Mae Taeng valleys are famous for their elephant camps, hill tribe villages, scenic waterfalls and plantations of exotic flowers. Many people visit on organised tours, but it’s easy to explore the area with a rented car or motorcycle. Wat Phra That Doi Suthep The most popular excursion around Chiang Mai is the ascent of Doi Suthep Mountain, 16km (10 miles) northwest of the city, which is cloaked in jungle foliage and crowned by the most sacred temple in northern Thailand. Reached via a 306-step, naga-lined staircase, or an easy tram ride, Wat Phra That Doi Suthep was founded in 1383, and its courtyard is dominated by a famous gold-plated chedi. There are fabulous views across the hills and the city on clear days. For a quieter alternative, head 5km (3 miles) southeast of the city to the ruins of Wiang Kum Kam, the original settlement at Chiang Mai, which was abandoned in the 16th century and still sees relatively few visitors today. Trekking tours Travel agencies in Chiang Mai run adventure tours across northern Thailand, from mountain biking trips to cultural treks through hill tribe villages. Reliable agencies include Trekking Collective and Contact Travel. Telephone: (053) 208 340 ; (053) 204 664. Bicycle tours Click & Travel runs half-day cycle tours of Chiang Mai, while Chiang Mai Mountain Biking operates more rugged mountain-biking trips. Telephone: (053) 281 553 ; 0810 247 046. Adventure tours Chiang Mai Rock Climbing Adventures organises thrilling caving and climbing trips around the limestone cliffs east of Chiang Mai. Other adventure tour options include white-water rafting trips with Siam River Adventures. These include jungle homestay, hill tribe trekking excursions, elephant treks, canyoning, full moon rafting and multi-sport trips. Telephone: (053) 207 102 ; 0895 151 917. Rainforest tours Enjoy an exhilarating rainforest canopy tour run by Flight of the Gibbon. Telephone: 0899 705 511. Chat with local monks Learn more about Thai Buddhism, culture and meditation while helping monks improve their English by dropping into the free 'Monk Chat' sessions at Wat Suan Dok (tel: +66 53 278 967; Wat Chedi Luang or Wat Sri Suphan. You may be surprised by what you end up talking about. Whip up some phad thai at a Thai cookery class 13 Learn more about Thai food by taking a cookery class. Pupils pick ingredients from a market, learn how to plate up everything from appetizers to desserts, then get to eat it all. Most schools offer similar programs, though Chiang Mai Thai Cookery School (tel: +66 53 206 388; and Thai Farm Cooking School (tel: +66 81 288 5989; are among the best. Indulge in a massage - or 10 From cheap massage shops on every corner to luxurious 5-star spas, you can't visit Chiang Mai without a little pampering. Try Deep Relax (tel: +66 82 682 1599; for a traditional Thai massage, or splurge at Oasis Spa (tel: +66 53 920 111; for an indulgent experience you'll never forget. Zoom down a zip line Enjoy some fresh air and panoramic views by flying through the jungle on one of the city's adrenalineinducing zip lines. Jungle Flight (tel: +66 53 208 666; and Flight of the Gibbon (tel: +66 53 010 660; will have you soaring through air, scuttling across sky bridges and abseiling in next to no time. Get a traditional yantra tattoo Why not take home the ultimate souvenir? Traditional yantra tattoos (tapped tattoos) are unique as the ink is tapped into the body using a bamboo stick sharpened to a point. New shops seem to pop up everyday but CM Classictattoo (tel: +66 81 791 0857; and Best Sure Tattoo (tel: +66 86 776 833; are reliable choices. Watch some Muay Thai (Thai kick-boxing) Grab a drink, sit back and get ready for some intense sparring matches at an authentic traditional Muay Thai (Thai kick-boxing) fight. Watch muscled arms and legs fly at Tha Pae Stadium or get in the ring yourself by training at Lanna Muay Thai (tel: 053 892 102;. Empty your mind with a yoga and meditation session Chiang Mai welcomes beginner and advanced yoga and meditation students with open arms. Bend into shape at Namo (tel: +66 53 326 648; off of Thanon Moon Muang, with daily yoga sessions or visit Wat Umong (tel: +66 85 107 6045, a special Vipassana meditation retreat to the west of the city. Muck in at an elephant sanctuary Get up close and personal with these incredible giants by spending a day at Elephant Nature Park (tel: +66 53 272 855; an elephant rescue and rehabilitation centre just outside of Chiang Mai. If you have more time and want to help, consider becoming a volunteer for a more fulfilling experience. Discover a hidden hill tribe during a jungle trek Discover Chiang Mai's surrounding hills by trekking through the jungle and visiting hidden hill tribe villages. Treks vary widely, so be sure to check out what's on offer, but Pooh Eco-Trekking (tel: +66 53 208 538;lead environmentally responsible visits to see mountains, rivers, tribes and animals. Stay for a national holiday Though there are small holidays throughout the year, Chiang Mai is arguably the best place to experience the country's two most prominent festivals: Loi Krathong and Songkran. Loi Krathong, which usually takes place in November, is a spectacle of fireworks and floating lanterns, while Songkran, the Thai New Year in April, is essentially a country-wide water fight. 14 Food & Dining Out Restaurants: Chiang Mai is all about the food, especially when it comes to fresh, cheap street eats. The street food in Chiang Mai is plentiful and accessible with numerous stalls set up across the city. The restaurant scene isn’t shabby either. Along with incredible Thai food, you can also find decent Japanese, Indian, Italian and other Western fare. Meal times are pretty flexible, with stalls and restaurants open almost all the time, and snacking comes highly encouraged. The restaurants below have been handpicked by our guide author and are grouped into three different pricing categories: Expensive (over THB 200) Moderate (THB 60 to THB 200) Cheap (up to THB 60) The prices above are for a single meal without drinks. A service charge isn’t usually included in the bill, except at higher-end restaurants. Rounding up a bill at a cheaper restaurant or leaving around 10% for good service is polite. Tsunami Sushi Bar Category: Moderate Good food and great prices mean this sushi bar is always buzzing. While the restaurant serves other Japanese dishes such as chicken katsu (breaded chicken) and bowls of udon (Japanese noodles), it's better to stick with the fresh sashimi and delicious handmade rolls. Traditional salmon and tuna sashimi are always favourites here, but if you're in the mood for something different, order the 'Golden Roll' with its secret ingredient – cheese. Snag a seat out front so you can watch the master chefs at work. Telephone: +66 87 189 338. Address: 8/19 Thanon Huay Kaew Chiang Mai 50300 Good Morning Chiang Mai Category: Cheap There aren't many places in town that do a decent Western-style breakfast, but luckily Good Morning Chiang Mai does. A favourite among expats, the funky restaurant serves basic Thai dishes like fried and phad thai, along with excellent breakfasts (including omelettes, pancakes, fruit salad and French toast), sandwiches and burgers. A great place for groups, diners can enjoy a range of coffee, tea and fruit shakes, while sitting in the comfortable garden or inside the quirky wooden house. Telephone: +66 53 278 607. Address: 29/5 Rachamanka Soi 6 Chiang Mai 50200 Beccofino Trattoria Category: Expensive 15 If you need a break from red curry and mango salad, try the Italian restaurant, Beccofino Trattoria, in the trendy Nimmanhaemin neighbourhood. Dishes are certainly more expensive than what you would find at the street stalls, but rest assured that your meal won't be disappointing. With wood-fired pizzas, handmade pasta, grilled lamb chops and creamy risotto, the menu will have you thinking you're somewhere other than the northern Thai hills. Telephone: +66 53 226 5902 Address: 20/2 Thanon Nimmanhaemin Soi 7 Chiang Mai 50200 Free Bird Cafe Category: Moderate At Free Bird Café, on the north side of the moat, you can eat for a cause. Run by Thai Freedom House, all proceeds go toward a non-profit, non-government organisation which operates a community language and arts learning centre for Burmese refugees. The café serves a range of organic vegetarian food with a sweet spot for Burmese dishes, such as green tea leaf salad and yellow Shan noodles. It's also a great place for breakfast – don't miss the lavender latte. Telephone: +66 81 028 5383 Address: 116 Maneenoparat Road Chiang Mai 50300 Dash! Category: Moderate It may take you a couple tries to find this charming restaurant, tucked away in a mess of little sois (alleys) in Chiang Mai's old city, but it will be well worth it. Located in a traditional Thai two-story wooden house, Dash! offers standard Thai dishes, including green curry and spring rolls, along with some Western meals, in a beautiful and intimate atmosphere. Guests can dine in the house or sit outside in the garden. The restaurant also runs onsite cooking classes. Telephone: +66 85 347 7445 Address: 38/2 Thanon Moon Muang Chiang Mai 50200 Chiang Mai Gate food stalls Category: Cheap Every evening, starting around 1700, Chiang Mai Gate is taken over with street stalls, food carts and tantalising tastes. Here you'll find made-to-order stir fries and noodle soups, fresh fruit shakes, hot curries bagged up to go and whole grilled fish just waiting to be devoured. Most carts have tables set up for seating and don't mind if you buy and bring food from different stalls, just don't linger too long if there are other people waiting to sit down. Address: Thanon Bumrung Buri at Chiang Mai Gate Chiang Mai 50200 Heuan Soontaree Category: Expensive This riverside restaurant is owned by a famous northern Thai folk singer and hosts live shows every evening except Sundays. Appropriately, the menu includes plenty of northern Thai specialities including gang hung lay (a meaty curry made with pork belly), sai oua (spicy sausage) and various chilli dips served with steamed vegetables and pork crackling. It's a romantic spot (good for special occasions) that entices an even mix of locals and Westerners. Vegetarian dishes are also available. 16 Telephone: +66 53 972 707. Address: 208 Thanon Patan Chiang Mai 50300 Pun Pun at Wat Suan Dok Category: Cheap Chiang Mai is home to many vegetarian and vegan restaurants, but this inviting garden spot, located at the Wat Suan Dok temple complex, is one of the best. Dishes range from Thai curries and stir-fried dishes to inventive fresh salads and desserts. Ingredients for the meals are sourced from a local organic farm and sustainable living centre. Be sure to try one of their refreshing herbal teas or fortifying fruit shakes. Pun Pun also has two other restaurants and markets around town. Telephone: +66 84 365 6581. Address: Thanon Suthep at Wat Suan Dok Chiang Mai 50200 The Riverside Category: Expensive With two locations situated across the street from each other along the Mae Ping River, The Riverside is a long time favourite that's popular with locals, expats and tourists alike, thanks to its good food, decent drinks and jovial atmosphere. It's best to order several plates to share before sticking around to listen to the live cover bands that play every night. Reservations recommended. Telephone: +66 53 324 239. Address: 9-11 Thanon Charoenrat Chiang Mai 50000 17 Shopping Shopping in Chiang Mai is some of the best in the country thanks to the city's close proximity to traditional handicraft villages, several busy night markets and a slew of new shopping centres. Key Areas: Though you can find shops and markets spread throughout the city, some of the best shopping areas are found around Tha Pae Gate and along Thanon Tha Pae toward the river as well as Thanon Nimmanhaemin and Thanon Wualai. Markets: Chiang Mai’s Saturday and Sunday Walking Streets (on Thanon Wualai and Thanon Rachadamoen respectively) are must-sees popular with locals and tourists alike while the massive Night Bazaar, at the junction of Thanon Chang Klan and Thanon Loi Kroh, sells just about every souvenir and craft you can think of and cheap counterfeit designer goods. Also worth visiting is Wororot Market, Chiang Mai's oldest bazaar, along the river north of Thanon Tha Pae. The nightly student market, located on Thanon Huay Kaew near the back entrance of Chiang Mai University, is good for cheap clothing, accessories and snacks. For additional handicrafts, visit the nearby village of Ban Tawai, about 15km (9 miles) away, for wood carvings and furniture, or Bo Sang, about 9km (6 miles) away, for hand-painted souvenir umbrellas. Shopping Centres: The major shopping centres include CentralPlaza Chiangmai Airport at 2 Thanon Mahidol Road, Maya Lifestyle Shopping Center at 55 Moo 5, Thanon Huay Kaew Road and Central Festival at 99/3 Moo 4, off the Superhighway. All house international brands and stores. Times: Opening times vary, but most shops are open daily from 0900-2000. Morning markets start around 0600 and close in the late afternoon, while night markets tend to open by 1800 and close around 2300. Larger shopping malls are open daily beginning late morning until between 2100 and 2300. Souvenirs: Chiang Mai is an artist's town, so along with the typical elephant-print harem trousers, all of the best souvenirs are handmade. These include decorative umbrellas, celadon pottery and carved wooden furniture. You'll also find plenty of tribal textiles and silver jewellery unique to northern Thailand. Tax Info: Foreign tourists are eligible to receive a VAT refund on certain purchases as long as they leave via an international airport and take the goods out of Thailand within 60 days of buying them. You must produce the original receipts and fill in a VAT Refund Application Form (VAT Form 10) at the airport before checking in. Participating stores will display a 'VAT Refund For Tourists' sign. 18 Best Time To Visit The peak season for visiting Chiang Mai is December to January, the only time of year when daytime temperatures dip below 30°C (86°F). The cooler weather is a welcome change from the steamy monsoon months, and the lack of rain makes this the perfect time to venture out into the hills. However, many visitors plan their trip by the festival calendar. 19 Travel Tips Public transport The town centre is relatively flat and compact making it easy to walk or explore by bicycle. For local transportation, most visitors prefer to take a songthaew (shared taxi) or hire a tuk-tuk as there isn't a public transportation system. Renting a motorbike is also popular. Taxis: Metered taxis, generally painted yellow and blue, can be pre-booked by phone (tel: +66 53 262 878) or flagged down in the street. They're best used for journeys to and from Chiang Mai International Airport and for privately chartered day trips out of the city. For quick trips use tuk-tuks and songthaews (red pick-up trucks that act as shared taxis). When getting into a tuk-tuk, be sure to bargain and fix a fare before you set off. Songthaews usually charge a fixed price unless you're travelling to the edge of town. A handful of samlors (tricycle rickshaws) also operate in the city centre. Driving: Driving around Chiang Mai is not for the faint-hearted. Cars, motorbikes, bicycles, rickshaws, pedestrians, vendors and stray dogs all jostle for space on the road, while traffic signals and road lines are generally ignored. That said, renting your own set of wheels is one of the easiest and most cost effective ways to explore beyond the city centre. Car Hire: Cars can be hired at the airport or from agencies around Tha Phae Gate. There are several agencies on the east side of the old city that rent out motorbikes. They can also be hired from local shops, hotels and guesthouses. To hire a car or motorbike, foreigners are technically required to have an international driver's licence, although most rental car companies will accept national licences. Few motorbike rental shops will even ask for proof of a license. International agencies will accept credit card details as security, whilst small agencies often want a cash deposit or to hold on to your passport. Bike Hire: Bicycles are available from several agencies or at hotels and guesthouses. Chiang Mai Mountain Biking at 1 Thanon Samlan (tel: +66 81 024 7046; rents out mountain bikes and runs various cycling tours. Sightseeing: Passes: TAT Information Office Oddly, Chiang Mai's official Tourism of Thailand office is located away from the city centre. You will find it across the Mae Ping River in the Wat Ket neighbourhood. There's also a temporary office at 164/94-9 Thanon Chang Klan. For information on the city, a better bet is to scour the maps and brochures available at hotels and tour shops across town. 20 Address: 105/1 Thanon Chiang Mai-Lamphun Chiang Mai 50000 Telephone: +66 53 248 604 Opening Times: Daily 0830-1630. Dialing Code: (Thailand); 053 (Chiang Mai) Population: 250,000 21