How To Use Common Sewing Machine Attachments
Sewing machines supplied by Tools for Self Reliance are fitted with a standard straight-stitch presser foot.
However, certain sewing tasks are best carried out using a specialist attachment in place of the standard foot. This
document describes the use of some of the most common attachments.
The information specifically covers the use of side-clamped attachments manufactured by Singer when fitted to a
manual sewing machine. The information may also be relevant to attachments and sewing machines, both
manual and electric, from other manufacturers but this is outside the scope of these notes.
Some attachments are more difficult to master than others. It is recommended to practice by creating test samples
before attempting to use an attachment with expensive fabrics or trimming materials.
The set of attachments that Tools for Self Reliance provide with a sewing machine may not include all the items
mentioned here.
Disclaimer: The information presented in this document is provided in good faith but Tools for Self Reliance takes
no responsibility for any consequence of its use.
Adjustable Hemmer - p3
Gathering Foot - p13
Tucker - p20
Binder - p5
Edge Stitcher - p8
Quilting Foot - p14
Ruffler - p15
Underbraider - p23
Foot Hemmer - p11
Seam Guide - p19
Zipper Foot - p25
Preparation
The following instructions describe how to fit the attachment in place of the standard presser foot. They apply to all
the attachments described in this document other than the Seam Guide and the Underbraider.
1. First remove the standard presser foot. Raise the needle and the pressure bar to their highest points and
loosen the thumbscrew that holds the foot in position.
2. Replace the foot with the attachment, noting any special instructions for that particular attachment. Tighten the
thumbscrew and ensure the attachment is securely fastened.
3. Slowly turn the hand wheel towards you and make sure the needle passes cleanly through the needle hole on
the attachment before starting to sew. It may be necessary to alter the needle position on machines that have a
left / middle / right adjustment option.
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Page 1 of 26
V1.1
4. Ensure the upper thread passes through the needle hole on the attachment from top to bottom before starting to
sew.
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V1.1
Contents
1
Adjustable Hemmer ....................................... 4
7
Ruffler ...........................................................16
1.1
Narrow hems ................................................... 4
7.1
Components ..................................................16
1.2
Wide hems ....................................................... 5
7.2
Variants ..........................................................17
7.3
Plain gathering ...............................................17
2
Binder ............................................................. 6
7.4
Adding a ruffle................................................17
2.1
Adjusting the position of the stitching .............. 6
7.5
Inserting a ruffle .............................................18
2.2
Using pre-folded bindings and braids .............. 6
7.6
Applying rows of ruffles .................................18
2.3
Using unfolded or raw-edged bias bindings .... 7
7.7
Plaiting ...........................................................19
2.4
Binding curved edges ...................................... 7
7.8
Group plaiting and gathering .........................19
2.5
Applying a French fold ..................................... 8
2.6
Binding a square corner .................................. 8
8
Seam Guide ..................................................20
2.7
Binding plackets .............................................. 8
9
Tucker ...........................................................21
3
Edge Stitcher ................................................. 9
9.1
Components ..................................................21
3.1
Hemming, facing and seam edges .................. 9
9.2
Settings ..........................................................21
3.2
French seams .................................................. 9
9.3
Creating a set of tucks ...................................22
3.3
Sewing together any two pieces .................... 10
9.4
Using silk and chiffon .....................................22
3.4
Setting-in trims ............................................... 10
9.5
Fine tucks and cross tucking .........................22
3.5
Attaching piping ............................................. 10
3.6
Attaching folded bias tape and braid ............. 10
10
Underbraider ................................................23
3.7
Tucking .......................................................... 11
10.1 Setting up .......................................................23
10.2 Braiding ..........................................................23
4
Foot Hemmer ............................................... 12
10.3 Copying braiding designs ..............................24
4.1
Hemming ....................................................... 12
10.4 Braiding on net and fine materials .................24
4.2
Hemmed seams ............................................ 12
4.3
Attaching trimmings while forming a hem ...... 13
11
4.4
Attaching trimmings under a rolled hem ........ 13
11.1 Attaching a zipper ..........................................25
Zipper Foot ...................................................25
11.2 Corded welting ...............................................26
5
Gathering Foot ............................................. 14
6
Quilting Foot ................................................ 15
6.1
Quilting........................................................... 15
Using Sewing Machine Attachments
11.3 Corded seams ...............................................26
Page 3 / 26
V1.1
1
Adjustable Hemmer
The Adjustable Hemmer aids the stitching of single and double-folded
hems. It helps guide the fabric to ensure the hem is a consistent width
and the stitching is close to the folded edge of the fabric.
There are two ways of using most Adjustable Hemmers, closed or open, depending on the width of the hem
required. Note that some Adjustable Hemmers cannot be opened and so are only capable of helping to produce
narrow hems.
The hem is formed to the right of the needle. To ensure good results, it is important to start the hem at the very
edge of the fabric and to prevent it from forming on the bias. It may be found useful to practise with a striped
material. A piece of paper or interfacing placed under the attachment and next to the feed dog can prevent the
material from stretching when hemming very soft material.
1.1
Narrow hems
The Adjustable Hemmer is used in its closed mode for narrow hems up to 25mm (1”) wide.
1. To operate the attachment in its closed mode, loosen the
Thumbscrew and swing the numbered Scale and the Slider
round to the right as far as it will go, Fig. 1.
2. The hem will be formed under the Scale to the right of the
Thumbscrew. Adjust the position of the Scale to set the
width of the hem then tighten the Thumbscrew. The
markings on the Scale are in steps of approximately
3mm (1/8”).
3. Pass the upper thread through the needle hole in the
attachment from top to bottom.
4. If producing a double hem, define the position and width of
the first fold and pin or iron to hold in place.
5. With the right side of the fabric facing down and the raw
edge (single hem) or the folded edge (double hem) on the
right, lay the fabric under the foot with approximately
25mm (1”) of the hem beyond the needle towards the back
of the machine.
6. Bring the edge of the fabric up between the Scale and the
Slider. Draw the fabric backwards and forwards while pulling
the edge across to the left until the guide is full and the hem
is formed correctly, Fig. 2. It may be found easier to align
the edge of the fabric on the diagonal at right-angles to the
Scale when starting the process and straightening up once
the hem has been formed.
7. Insert a pin horizontally across the very top of the hem as
close to the edge as possible to stop the top piece of fabric
from moving as sewing starts.
8. Position the start of the hem under the needle and lower the
presser bar. Taking care to avoid the pin, make the first
stitch and check that it is correctly positioned at the very start
of the hem.
9. Pull both threads slightly towards the back of the machine
and sew gently, guiding the fabric so that the hemmer just
remains full.
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Fig. 1: Adjustable Hemmer Closed mode
Fig. 2: Adjustable Hemmer Narrow hems
V1.1
1.2
Wide hems
To create a hem greater than 25mm wide (1˝), the Adjustable Hemmer is used in its open mode as shown in Fig. 3.
Note that the attachment does not control the width of the hem in this mode and that not all Adjustable Hemmers
can be opened.
1. To operate the foot in its open mode, loosen the Thumbscrew and
move the Slider all the way to the right. Swing the end around to the
left as far as it will go to reveal the Folder and tighten the Thumbscrew.
2. Pass the upper thread through the needle hole in the attachment from
top to bottom.
3. If producing a double hem, define the position and width of the first fold
and pin or iron to hold in place.
4. Form the final hem and insert a pin horizontally across the very top of
the hem as close to the edge as possible to stop the top piece of fabric
from moving as sewing starts.
5. A wide hem can be stitched from the right or the wrong side of the
fabric. Lay the fabric under the Wing with the edge to be hemmed on
the left. Insert the edge into the Folder, positioning it fully against the
left-hand side.
6. Lower the presser bar and sew gently ensuring the edge of the fabric
remains against the left-hand edge of the Folder. The Adjustable
Hemmer will turn the edge and stitch it flat but the material must be
guided carefully to ensure the width of the hem remains even.
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Fig. 3: Adjustable Hemmer Open mode for wide hems
V1.1
2
Binder
The Binder is a versatile attachment for adding bias bindings and braids
to the edge of a piece of fabric. The attachment folds the binding
around the fabric ready for stitching.
Bias bindings and braids make for a practical finish for seam edges that ravel and for bound seams. The Binder
helps to attach the material without the need for basting. The binding is fed through the foot and as it emerges it is
folded around the fabric ready for stitching. It can be used with both pre-folded and raw-edged binding strips and
for binding inside and outside curves.
2.1
Adjusting the position of the stitching
The position of the stitching relative to the edge of the binding can be
adjusted to suit the materials in use and the desired effect. A wider
setting is usually required when binding a curve than when binding a
straight edge.
The parts of the Binder are identified in Fig. 5. Loosen the Adjusting
Screw and move the Scroll to the right to bring the stitching closer to
the edge of the binding or to the left to make it further away. Ensure
that the Adjusting Screw is fully tightened before starting to sew.
2.2
Fig. 5: Parts of the Binder
Using pre-folded bindings and braids
Pre-folded bindings, braids and ribbons with finished edges are
inserted in the Binder Slot. A 12mm (1/2˝) wide strip will result in a
6mm (1/4˝) binding on either side of the fabric.
1. Cut the binding to a point to make it easier to feed into the
Binder Slot, Fig. 6.
2. Feed the pointed end of the binding into the Binder Slot and
pull it through until the full width emerges from the narrow
end of the Scroll and can be positioned under the needle,
Fig. 7. A pin might be found useful to catch the end and help
it through. Alternatively, it may be found easier to do this
before attaching the Binder to the sewing machine.
3. Check that the binding is forming a U-shape to wrap around
the edge of the fabric.
4. Feed the fabric to be bound into the Centre Slot from the lefthand side. Pull the fabric towards the needle to fill the
Scroll. Ensure the fabric is as far to the right in the Centre
Slot as it will go, Fig. 8.
5. Check that the stitching will be positioned correctly and alter
if necessary using the Adjusting Screw.
6. Lower the foot and sew as normal, ensuring that the fabric
and the binding are fed in evenly.
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Fig. 6: Preparing pre-folded bindings
Fig. 7: Binder - Inserting
pre-folded bindings
Fig. 8: Binder - Using
pre-folded bindings
V1.1
2.3
Using unfolded or raw-edged bias bindings
Unfolded, raw-edged binding strips are inserted in the Scroll. The raw edges are turned in as the strip passes
through the foot and the binding is wrapped around the edge of the fabric. A 24mm (1˝) wide strip will result in a
6mm (1/4˝) binding on either side of the fabric.
1. Fold the binding strip down the centre and then cut it to a point.
2. Feed the point of the binding into the right-hand side of the Scroll, Fig. 9.
3. Pull the binding through the Scroll until the full width emerges and can
be positioned under the needle. A pin might be useful to catch the end
and help it through. Manipulate the binding into position so that it runs
round against the inner wall of the Scroll leaving the Centre Slot clear.
4. Check that the raw edges have been turned in and that the binding is
forming a U-shape to wrap around the edge of the fabric.
5. Feed the fabric to be bound into the Centre Slot from the left-hand side.
Pull the fabric towards the needle to fill the scroll. Ensure the fabric is as
far to the right in the Centre Slot as it will go.
6. Check that the stitching will be positioned correctly and alter if necessary
using the Adjusting Screw.
7. Lower the foot and sew as normal, ensuring that the fabric and the
binding are fed in evenly. Do not pull the binding as it feeds through the
Scroll. Ensure the fabric to be bound remains as far to the right as it will
go in the Centre Slot.
2.4
Fig. 9: Binder - Using
unfolded bindings
Binding curved edges
Curved edges can be bound as easily as straight edges using either prepared or raw-edge bindings as described
above. However, the fabric must be handled slightly differently in order to carry out the task properly.
Outside Curves
Pay attention to the following points when binding outside curves, Fig. 10:
•
•
•
•
•
•
The edge of the fabric to be bound must be held well within the
Scroll to ensure a full seam width is achieved at the needle point
as there will be a tendency for it to pull away as the curved fabric
is fed through.
Guide and turn the fabric only as fast as the machine sews. It is
not possible to hold the fabric in the full length of the Scroll when a
binding a sharp curve.
Do not push the fabric into the Scroll too quickly as there is a risk
the edge will become puckered.
Do not stretch the fabric otherwise the curve will not be the proper
shape when finished.
If the stitching is not catching the edge of the binding correctly
when sewing the curve, slacken the Adjusting Screw, move the
position of the Scroll slightly to the left and re-tighten the screw.
Never pull on the binding material as it is feeds into the Binder as
binding materials often stretch very easily. The binding will then be
too narrow when it reaches the needle and the edges will not be
turned correctly.
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Fig. 10: Binder - Binding an
outside curve
V1.1
Inside Curves
Inside curves are found on nearly all garments that can be finished
with a bound edge, Fig. 11. Pay attention to the following points
when binding inside curves:
•
•
2.5
Straighten out the edge of the fabric as it is fed into the Binder,
taking care not to stretch the edge of the material.
Before applying a binding to a very soft fabric, first reinforce the
edge of fabric by adding a single row of machine stitching
following the line of the curve.
Fig. 11: Binder - Binding an
inside curve
Applying a French fold
A French fold is applied to a curve by placing the material under the
attachment and stitching the binding in position as shown in Fig. 12.
A line made by basting or with chalk or pencil may be used as a
guide in applying rows where wanted.
2.6
Binding a square corner
1. Apply the binding along the first side to within 3mm (1/8”) of the
first corner. Stop the sewing when the needle is at its highest
point.
2. Draw the fabric back away from the needle far enough to pull
50mm (2”) of the binding through the Binder.
3. Fold and crease the binding to form a square mitred corner.
4. Turn the fabric and draw it back into the Binder.
5. Bring the needle down through the binding close to the corner,
Fig. 13.
6. Draw the slack thread back through the needle and hold it under
tension.
7. Check that the new edge of the fabric is properly located in the
Scroll of the Binder and begin stitching slowly until the fabric
feeds through correctly.
8. Complete the stitching of the side and repeat for the other two
edges. The loop of thread formed on the underside of a corner
may be tied or cut off without problem as the stitch is locked.
2.7
Fig. 12: Binder - Applying
French folds to a curve
Fig. 13: Binder - Turning a
square corner
Binding plackets
1. Fold the fabric in a straight line, placing the fullness in a flat fold
on the underside of the fabric, Fig. 14.
2. Insert the edge of the placket into the Centre Slot of the Binder
and attach the binding as normal. As the point of the placket is
reached, sew slowly and take care that the Binder is not overfilled.
3. Fold the material to the other side of the slit and bind to the end.
A finished placket is shown in Fig. 15.
Fig. 14: Binder - Binding a placket
Fig. 15: Binder - A bound placket
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V1.1
3
Edge Stitcher
The Edge Stitcher enables accurate stitching very close to the edge of
the fabric. Its use ensures a straight line of stitches when forming hems,
joining fabrics and attaching trims such as lace, braids and piping.
The Edge Stitcher has five slots that guide the edge of the fabric during different sewing operations. Using the Lug,
marked A in Fig. 16, the front part can be moved slightly from left to right to adjust the distance between the line of
stitching and the edge of the fabric. If the front part is difficult to slide, apply one drop of oil under the blue steel
spring then wipe away the excess oil to avoid soiling the work piece.
3.1
Hemming, facing and seam edges
1. Fold the fabric to form the hem or define the position of the seam.
Pin or iron in place.
2. For hems and seams up to 2.5mm (1/8”) wide, position the folded
edge of the fabric in Slot 1, with the fabric underneath the foot at the
back and on top of the foot at the front. Similarly, use Slot 5 for
hems and seams between 2.5mm (1/8”) and 5 mm (1/4”) wide,
Fig. 17.
3. Move Lug A to the left or right to adjust where the line of stitches will
go relative to the folded edge of the fabric.
4. Lower the foot and sew, ensuring the folded edge of the fabric runs
against the end of the slot.
3.2
Fig. 16: Parts of the Edge Stitcher
French seams
The Edge Stitcher enables very fine French seams to be created and so
sheer fabrics can be used where the raw seam edges must be
concealed.
1. Prepare 5mm (1/4”) seam allowances on each piece of fabric.
Arrange the two pieces together with the wrong sides touching each
other and the seam edges aligned.
2. Slide the fabrics into Slot 1, with the fabrics underneath the foot at
the back and on top of the foot at the front.
3. Adjust Lug A so that the stitching is approximately 2.5mm (1/8”) from
the edge of the fabrics.
4. Sew the seam.
5. Fold the right side of the fabrics together and insert the back of the
seam into Slot 1.
6. Adjust Lug A so that the stitching is positioned with just enough
margin to conceal the raw edges.
7. Sew the seam.
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Fig. 17: Edge Stitcher Hems and seam edges
V1.1
3.3
Sewing together any two pieces
The Edge Stitcher makes it easy to sew any two pieces of material
together, for example to attach lace trim to the edge of a piece of fabric,
Fig. 18. Slot 1 and Slot 4 are used and, since Slot 1 overlaps with
Slot 4, the edge inserted in Slot 1 will be the top-stitched edge. If a fine
material is being used, e.g. lace, the tension should be loose to avoid
puckering.
1. Place the edge of the lower piece of material in Slot 4, with the
material underneath the foot at the back and on top of the foot at the
front, Fig. 18.
2. Similarly, place the edge of the upper piece of material in Slot 1.
3. Adjust Lug A so that the stitching is correctly positioned to catch both
pieces of material.
4. Sew gently using a short stitch length. It will be found easier to keep
the edges of the materials against the ends of the slots if the two
pieces are overlapped slightly while guiding them.
3.4
Fig. 18: Edge Stitcher Sewing two pieces together
Setting-in trims
Trims such as lace and ribbons can be set-in using Slot 1 and Slot 4 in a
similar manner as when joining two pieces of material. The material
may be folded over before being placed in the slot so that a double
thickness is stitched and will not pull out. The surplus material is
trimmed away close to the stitching as shown in Fig. 19.
3.5
Fig. 19: Edge Stitcher Setting-in trims
Attaching piping
It is recommended to cut the piping on the bias and to twice the width of
the slot.
1. Fold the piping in half before inserting it into Slot 3. Feed the piping
from the top side with its finished edge to the left.
2. If attaching the piping to a single piece of fabric, place the edge of
the fabric in Slot 4, Fig. 20. If the piping is to be sandwiched
between two pieces of fabric, place the edges of the fabrics in
Slots 1 and 5.
3. Adjust Lug A so that stitching is correctly positioned.
4. Sew gently using a short stitch length.
3.6
Attaching folded bias tape and braid
1. Place the fabric under the Edge Stitcher in the same way as when
using a regular presser foot.
2. Place the tape or braid in Slot 1 or Slot 4, Fig. 21.
3. Sew gently using a short stitch length.
4. To make a square corner, sew until the turning point is reached then
remove the tape from Slot 3. Form the corner by hand then replace
the tape in Slot 3 and continue sewing.
Fig. 20: Edge Stitcher Attaching piping
Fig. 21: Edge Stitcher - Bias folds
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V1.1
3.7
Tucking
Narrow tucks up to 2.5mm (1/8”) can be produced by inserting creased folds in Slot 1 or 5 and adjusting Lug A for
the required width of tuck. It is recommended to use a light tension, a short stitch length and a fine thread and
needle. Tucks are usually made on the straight grain of the fabric.
1. Crease the first fold in the fabric.
2. To make very narrow “pin tucks”, insert the fabric into Slot 1
and adjust Lug A to position the stitches a pin’s width from the
fold. For wider tucks up to 2.5mm (1/8”), insert the tuck fold in
Slot 5 and move Lug A to its extreme left position, Fig. 22.
3. Sew gently to complete the first tuck.
4. Crease and press subsequent tucks at the required distance
from the previous tuck. Re-insert the fabric in the appropriate
slot and sew gently.
Fig. 22: Edge Stitcher Tucking
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V1.1
4
Foot Hemmer
The Foot Hemmer is used to make narrow rolled hems, hemmed seams
and to add trimming materials such as lace. The attachment turns the
edge of the fabric to create the hem.
The width of the hem is determined by the design of the attachment, in particular by the size of the Scroll. Different
sizes have been manufactured over the years. Note that this attachment is one of the most difficult to master.
The Foot Hemmer is best used with medium to lightweight fabrics although very thin fabrics may not feed through
properly. To overcome this problem, inset a strip of paper under the fabric and allow it to move through with the
fabric. Soft fabrics will enter the scroll best with the foot down, firm crisp fabrics with the foot raised.
4.1
Hemming
1. Define the position of the hem along the right-hand edge by double
folding the fabric. First fold over the edge of the fabric for 3mm (1/8˝).
Then fold it over again in the same way for a length of about
50mm (2˝) and pin or iron in place.
2. Place the fabric under the foot with the end of the hem directly below
the needle. Draw the needle and bobbin threads under the foot,
Fig. 23. Lower the foot and sew two or three stitches to secure the
start of the hem.
3. Raise the foot and the needle. Pull the fabric slightly away from you
while holding the threads and then guide the single fold into the Scroll
from underneath the foot. Pull the fabric towards you keeping the
edge securely in the Scroll until the tacked end is caught by the Foot
Hemmer.
4. Lower the foot and begin sewing gently, pulling the threads back while
sewing, Fig. 24. Guide the fabric so that the edge lies flat over the top
of the Foot Hemmer.
5. It is important to keep the mouth of the Scroll full of fabric at all times
in order to achieve an even hem. Should the edge of the fabric begin
to run out of the Scroll, move the fabric gently to the left. Should too
much fabric run in, move the fabric gently to the right.
4.2
Hemmed seams
1. When sewing hemmed seams (felling), first prepare and position
accurately the two pieces of fabric so that their right sides face each
other. The upper piece of fabric should be about 3mm (1/8˝) in from
the edge of the lower piece.
2. Stitch the two pieces together using the Foot Hemmer as a standard
presser foot. Use the internal and external edges of the “toe” on the
right side of the foot as a guide to maintain the position of the fabric
pieces.
3. Open and flatten out the fabric so that the right sides are facing down
and the edges are standing up.
4. Fold over the edges to the left and insert them into the Scroll of the
Foot Hemmer and sew as above, aligning the first row of stitches with
the internal edge of the “toe” of the Foot Hemmer, Fig. 25.
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Fig. 23:- Foot Hemmer Starting a hem at the edge
Fig. 24: Foot Hemmer –
Making a hem
Fig. 16
Fig. 25: Foot Hemmer Hemmed seams
V1.1
4.3
Attaching trimmings while forming a hem
1. Start the hem as described above when hemming and sew a few
stitches.
2. Raise the needle and the foot. Guide the lace into the needle slot
on the right-hand side of the foot, sliding the trimming material,
e.g. lace, under the back of the foot and bringing it out to the front
on top of the foot, Fig. 26.
3. Lower the foot and sew gently. Guide the fabric with the left-hand
and the trim with the right. Ensure the trim remains in position in
the slot and that it does not get stretched.
4.4
Fig. 26: Foot Hemmer Hemming and sewing on a trim
Attaching trimmings under a rolled hem
1. Prepare the fabric to be hemmed in the normal way but with the
right side uppermost.
2. Lay the trimming material on top of the fabric leaving about
3mm (1/8˝) of the fabric visible on the right-hand side.
3. Feed the fabric into the Scroll of the foot as normal, Fig. 27.
4. Start to sew gently. The hem will roll over the edge of the trim.
Both the hem and trim will be secured by the stitching.
Fig. 27: Foot Hemmer Attaching a trim under a rolled hem
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V1.1
5
Gathering Foot
The Gathering Foot is used to create gathering, shirring and smocking.
Material sewn using the this attachment will be slightly gathered. It is very convenient for applications where only a
slight fullness is required, such as at the top of a sleeve or around the neck of a garment. The use of the Ruffler
attachment should be considered if more precision is required.
Shirring is usually carried out on the crosswise grain of the fabric. Soft fabrics lend themselves better to shirring
than firm fabrics. Fine materials, such as batiste, silk or net, can look very attractive when shirred. Pleasing effects
can also be created by sewing with a thread of a contrasting colour to the fabric.
The fullness of the gather is controlled by adjusting the stitch length and/or the upper thread tension although
balanced tensions between top and bottom threads could be maintained. The longer the stitch the more gathered
the fabric will be. Likewise, heavier tensions produce more fullness in the gather. The material may be guided as
easily as when sewing with the standard presser foot.
1. If suitable for the application, start by pulling a single thread on the fabric’s
crosswise grain to create a straight stitching line.
2. Adjust the stitch length and upper thread tension to give the required
effect.
3. Sew along the “pulled” line, Fig. 28.
4. If application requires rows that are about 5 mm (1/4”) apart, use the edge
of the foot as a guide to sew the next row.
Fig. 28: Gathering Foot
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V1.1
6
Quilting Foot
The Quilting Foot aids the sewing of accurate lines of stitching an
equal width apart.
The distance of the movable guide from the needle determines the width between the rows of stitching. The fabric
is moved while stitching so that the guide follows the previous row of stitching. The guide bar can be positioned to
the left or right of the needle as appropriate, or removed when sewing more flowing patterns.
The Quilting Foot is also used with the Underbraider attachment, see section 10.
6.1
Quilting
1. Adjust the position of the guide bar relative to the needle to set the distance
between the rows of stitching.
2. For the first row of stitching, move the fabric so that the guide follows the edge
of the material, a straight crease, or a line, as appropriate.
3. When sewing succeeding rows, control the fabric so that the guide follows the
previous row of stitching, Fig. 29.
Fig. 29: Quilting Foot
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V1.1
7
Ruffler
The Ruffler is used for gathering, creating ruffles, ruffling between
pieces of fabric and making pleats. It allows for more precision
than the Gathering Foot.
The Ruffler enables ruffles of any desired fullness to be made quickly. With a simple adjustment, the ruffles may
be changed to dainty pleats. Ruffles may be made separately or made and applied at the same time.
The Ruffler may look complicated at first sight but it is quite simple to use. In addition to mounting on the presser
bar, the Fork on the Ruffler Arm has to be attached to the needle clamp on the needle arm of the sewing machine
in order to operate the mechanism.
7.1
Components
The component parts of the Ruffler are shown in Fig. 30. The keys points to note are:
•
•
•
•
•
The Thumbscrew adjusts the fullness of
the gather. To increase the fullness, turn
it clockwise. To reduce the fullness, turn
it anti-clockwise.
The Adjusting Lever sets the Ruffler for
plain gathering or pleating.
The Separator Guide contains several
slots into which the fabric and any
trimmings are slipped according to the
operation being carried out.
The teeth at the end of the Upper Blue
Blade push the fabric in pleats up to the
needle.
The Lower Blue Blade prevents the teeth
on the Upper Blue Blade from coming
into contact with the teeth of the sewing
machine’s feed dog.
Fig. 30: Parts of the Ruffler
The Ruffler should never be operated without fabric between the Upper and
Lower Blue Blades otherwise there is a risk that the teeth of the Upper
Blade will scratch the protective coating on the Lower Blade.
The Ruffler should be lightly oiled occasionally to prevent its moving parts
from sticking. If the Ruffler is not working correctly, for example if the
pleats are uneven, oiling may remedy the problem. A drop of oil at the
points shown in Fig. 31 is sufficient. If possible, sew on a waste piece of
fabric immediately afterwards to avoid soiling the work piece.
Fig. 31: Ruffler - Oiling points
Using Sewing Machine Attachments
Page 16 / 26
V1.1
7.2
Variants
There are a number of different designs of the Ruffler available and the version supplied with a sewing machine
may not be exactly the same as that shown in Fig. 30, especially in the design of the Adjusting Lever and the
position of the Thumbscrew. However, they all operate in the same way. The two most common designs are
described here:
1. The version shown in Fig. 30 has an Adjusting Lever with four holes labelled 1, 6, 12 and , to select between
plain stitching, plain gathering and pleating:
: Plain stitching. This allows sequences of straight stitching to be inserted between gathers or pleats
without having to remove the attachment;
1: A gather is formed at every stitch;
6: Six stitches are inserted before each pleat;
12: Twelve stitches are inserted before each pleat.
2. Some Rufflers look similar to the one shown in Fig. 30 except that the Adjusting Lever has only two holes,
labelled 1 and 5, with a
symbol between them:
: On the underside of the Adjusting Lever beneath the
symbol there is a small depression. Plain
stitching, i.e. no gathering, will result if the Prong is located in this depression;
1: A gather is formed at every stitch;
5: Five stitches are inserted before each pleat.
7.3
Plain gathering
1. The edge of the fabric should be fully finished before starting to ruffle,
e.g. the edge should be hemmed and any trimmings applied.
2. Locate the Adjusting Lever in Position 1.
3. Feed the fabric over the U-bar, down into Slot A, under the Separator
Guide, up through Slot B, then between the Upper and Lower Blue
Blades until it is slightly past the needle, Fig. 31`.
4. A good starting point regarding the fullness of the gather is to fully
tighten the Thumbscrew and then undo it by two complete turns so that
two screw threads are showing at the top. It may be found helpful to
reduce the upper thread tension of the machine.
5. Lower the presser bar and start to sew.
6. To make a finer gather, shorten the stitch length and turn the
Thumbscrew anticlockwise to shorten the stroke of the ruffling blade. Or
to make a fuller gather, increase the stitch length and turn the
Thumbscrew clockwise.
7.4
Fig. 31: Ruffler Making a plain gather
Adding a ruffle
The following procedure describes how to create a ruffle on one piece of fabric and sew it to a second piece of
fabric in one operation.
1. Ensure the fabric to be ruffled is fully finished, e.g. the edges have
been hemmed and any trimmings have been applied.
2. It is recommended to first test and adjust the attachment so that it is
set up correctly to produce ruffles of the required fullness. Do this by
following the instructions above for making a plain gather using a
spare piece of the fully-finished fabric to be ruffled.
3. Locate the Adjusting Lever in Position 1.
4. Place the fabric to which the ruffle is to be attached over the U-bar,
down through Slot A, and underneath the Lower Blue Blade.
5. Feed the fabric to be ruffled over the U-bar, down through Slot A, up
through Slot B, then between the Upper and Lower Blue Blades until it
is slightly past the needle, Fig. 32.
6. Lower the presser bar and start to sew. Guide the fabrics gently so
that they stay in the correct position within the Ruffler.
Using Sewing Machine Attachments
Page 17 / 26
Fig. 32: Ruffler - Making a ruffle
and attaching it in one operation
V1.1
7.5
Inserting a ruffle
The following procedure describes how to create and insert a ruffle between two pieces of fabric. The top piece of
fabric might be a facing. The facing material may be straight or bias cut.
1. Ensure the fabric to be ruffled is fully finished before attaching it to the
work piece, e.g. the edges have been hemmed and any trimmings
have been applied.
2. It is recommended to first test and adjust the attachment so that it is
set up correctly to produce ruffles of the required fullness. Do this by
following the instructions above for making a plain gather using a
spare piece of the fully-finished fabric to be ruffled.
3. Locate the Adjusting Lever in Position 1.
4. Place the lower piece of fabric to which the ruffle is to be attached
over the U-bar, down through Slot A, and underneath the Lower Blue
Blade.
5. Feed the fabric to be ruffled over the U-bar, down through Slot A, up
through Slot B, then between the Upper and Lower Blue Blades until it
is slightly past the needle.
6. Position the upper piece of fabric over the top of the Upper Blue
Blade, under the arm containing Slot C and down under the rear part
of the foot, Fig. 33.
7. Lower the presser bar and start to sew. Guide the fabrics gently so
that they stay in the position within the Ruffler.
7.6
Fig. 33: Ruffler - Creating a ruffle
between two pieces of fabric
Applying rows of ruffles
Rows of ruffles on a separate piece of fabric can be stitched to the work piece as the ruffles are being made,
Fig. 34.
1. Ensure the fabric to be ruffled is fully finished before attaching it
to the work piece, e.g. the edges have been hemmed and any
trimmings have been applied.
2. It is recommended to first test and adjust the attachment so that
it is set up correctly to produce ruffles of the required fullness.
Do this by following the instructions above for making a plain
gather using a spare piece of the fully-finished fabric to be
ruffled.
3. Mark the position of the ruffles on the work piece using a basting
thread or a chalk mark.
4. Locate the Adjusting Lever in Position 1.
5. If the heading on the ruffle is less than 6mm wide (1/4"), feed the
fabric to be ruffled over the U-bar, down through Slot A, up
through Slot B, then between the Upper and Lower Blue Blades
until it is slightly past the needle.
Fig. 34: Ruffler Applying rows of ruffles
If the heading on the ruffle is to be between 6mm and 25mm
wide (1/4 - 1"), position the fabric to be ruffled over the U-bar
and the Separator Guide and between the Upper and Lower
Blue Blades. and to the desired distance to the right of the
needle. The finished edge of the fabric will extend to the right
into the Edge Guide of the ruffler.
6. Lower the presser bar and start to sew. Guide the fabrics gently
so that the ruffle fabric stays in the correct position.
Using Sewing Machine Attachments
Page 18 / 26
V1.1
7.7
Plaiting
Any slightly stiffened fabric can usually be plaited successfully using the Ruffler. Plaits formed in softer fabrics may
not lie flat unless they are very well pressed. Plaiting can be applied to a garment while it is being made following
the procedures above for “Making a ruffle on one piece of fabric and sewing it to a second” or “Creating a ruffle
between two pieces of fabric”. A facing may also be applied in the same way as shown in Fig. 33.
The Ruffler can be used to make plaits about 3mm wide (1/8"). The distance between each plait is controlled by
adjusting the sewing machine’s stitch length.
1. Locate the Adjusting Lever in Position 5 or 6 depending on the
actual design of the Ruffler.
2. Turn the Thumbscrew clockwise until it fully screwed in.
3. Feed the fabric over the U-bar, down into Slot A, up through Slot B,
then between the Upper and Lower Blue Blades until it is slightly
past the needle, Fig. 35.
4. Lower the presser bar and start to sew.
5. To make the plaits further apart, increase the stitch length. Reduce
the stitch length to bring them closer together.
Fig. 35: Ruffler - Plaiting
7.8
Group plaiting and gathering
It is not necessary to remove the Ruffler from the machine if the sewing requirement is for sections of plain stitching
between the plaits. The Ruffler will produce plain stitching when the Prong is aligned with the symbol on the
Adjusting Lever.
1. Follow one of the above methods as appropriate to the sewing task to
prepare the fabrics for sewing.
2. Assuming the stitching sequence starts with a section of gathers or
pleats, move the Prong to the appropriate position on the Adjusting
Lever (Position 1, 5, 6 or 12 depending on the type of Ruffler and the
intended design).
3. Run the machine slowly and sew the first group of gathers or pleats,
Fig. 36.
4. Move the Prong to the position and sew the first length of plain
stitches.
5. Move the Prong back to the appropriate gathering/plaiting position.
6. Repeat steps 3 to 5 as required.
Using Sewing Machine Attachments
Page 19 / 26
Fig. 36: Ruffler - Group
plaiting and gathering
V1.1
8
Seam Guide
The Seam Guide helps maintain the width of a seam when
sewing both straight and curved edges. The edge of the fabric is
positioned against the guide when sewing, keeping the needle a
constant distance from the edge.
Unlike most of the other attachments described in this document, the Seam Guide does not replace the standard
presser foot. Instead, it is secured to the base plate of the machine by a thumbscrew inserted into a threaded hole.
Fine adjustment is made by sliding the guide to the left or right. There may be more than one hole in the base
plate of the machine to allow a larger range of seam widths.
When sewing straight edges, align the Seam Guide with the presser foot and keep the right-hand edge of the fabric
against the Seam Guide, Fig. 37. For curved edges, set the Seam Guide at an angle and keep the right-hand edge
of the fabric against the corner of the Seam Guide closest to the needle, Fig. 38.
Fig. 38: Seam Guide Curved edges
Fig. 37: Seam Guide Straight edges
Using Sewing Machine Attachments
Page 20 / 26
V1.1
9
Tucker
The Tucker is used to create tucks up to 24mm (1˝) in width.
Tucking can be an appropriate trimming to apply to fine materials. The Tucker is used to create tucks, from fine pin
tucks to tucks up to 24mm (1˝) in width. There are separate adjustments for the width of each tuck and the
distance between tucks. As each tuck is sewed, the fabric is lightly creased at the position of the next tuck.
9.1
Components
The component parts of the Tucker are shown in Fig. 39:
•
•
•
•
•
9.2
The Tuck Guide is adjustable and sets the width of the tuck. The
Tuck Guide Adjusting Screw is slackened off to make the
adjustment and should be re-tightened before starting to sew.
The two-bladed Tuck Scale acts as a smoothing blade, keeping
the tucks a uniform width. The figures on the Tuck Scale
indicate the tuck width in steps of approximately 3mm (1/8˝).
The figures on top of the Space Scale indicate the width of the
spacing between each tuck in steps of approximately
6mm (1/4˝). The Space Scale Adjusting Screw is slackened off
to allow the spacing to be adjusted and should be re-tightened
before starting to sew.
The Grooved Blade, attached to the underside of the Space
Scale, and the Spur Blade immediately below it work together to
mark the fabric to show where the next tuck should be
positioned. The spur on the Spur Blade presses the fabric into
the narrow slot on the Grooved Blade.
The Marking Lever is pushed up and down by the action of the
needle, which in turn causes the fabric to be marked by the
Groove and Spur Blades.
Settings
The figures on the Tuck Scale indicate the width of
each tuck in steps of approximately 3mm (1/8˝) and the
marks between the figures represent steps of
approximately 1.5mm (1/16˝).
The figures on the Space Scale indicate the distance
between each tuck plus the width of two tucks in steps
of 6mm (1/4˝) and the marks between the figures
represent steps of approximately 3mm (1/8˝). If no
space is required between tucks, the same value
should be selected on both the Tuck Scale and the
Space Scale.
By way of example, if a 1.5mm tuck is required every
9mm, the Tuck Scale would be set to 0.5 (1.5 ÷ 3). The
distance between each tuck plus the width of two tucks
totals 12mm (9 + 2 x 1.5) and this corresponds to the
figure 2 (12 ÷ 6) on the Space Scale, Fig. 40.
The adjacent table summarises various settings.
Using Sewing Machine Attachments
Tuck Width
(mm)
1.5
1.5
1.5
3
3
3
6
6
6
9
9
9
9
12
12
12
12
12
15
15
15
15
15
15
18
18
18
18
18
21
21
21
24
Page 21 / 26
Fig. 39: Parts of the Tucker
Fig. 40: Tucker - Settings example
Tucks Spacing
(mm)
3
6
9
0
3
6
0
3
6
0
3
6
9
0
3
6
9
12
0
3
6
9
12
15
0
3
6
9
12
0
3
6
0
Tuck Guide
Setting
0.5
0.5
0.5
1
1
1
2
2
2
3
3
3
3
4
4
4
4
4
5
5
5
5
5
5
6
6
6
6
6
7
7
7
8
Space Scale
Setting
1
1.5
2
1
1.5
2
2
2.5
3
3
3.5
4
4.5
4
4.5
5
5.5
6
5
5.5
6
6.5
7
7.5
6
6.5
7
7.5
8
7
7.5
8
8
V1.1
9.3
Creating a set of tucks
1. First set the width of each tuck. Loosen the Tuck Guide Adjusting Screw
and slide the Tuck Guide until it is over the appropriate figure on the Tuck
Scale, then re-tighten the Tuck Guide Adjusting Screw.
2. To set the distance between each tuck, loosen the Space Scale Adjusting
Screw and move the Space Scale until the appropriate figure is aligned
with the Needle Hole, then re-tighten the Space Scale Adjusting Screw.
3. Fold and crease the first tuck by hand.
4. With the needle in the highest position, insert the fabric from the left
between the Spur and Grooved Blades, and between the two blades of
the Tuck Scale. Ensure that the fabric is positioned so that the right-hand
edge is against the Tuck Guide, then work the fabric forward so that the
front edge is directly under the needle, Fig. 41.
5. Ensure that the Marking Lever is positioned below the needle clamp so
that the sewing action will operate the Tucker’s mechanism. Lower the
presser foot and sew the first tuck, ensuring that the edge of the fabric
runs again the Tuck Guide. The Spur Blade marks the position of the next
tuck during the sewing process.
6. Raise the presser foot and form the next tuck at the marked position.
Repeat the previous step until the last tuck is about to be sewed.
7. Prior to sewing the last tuck, move the needle to its highest position
and swing the Marking Lever upwards until it clicks into an upright
position. The action of the needle clamp will now no longer operate
the Tucker’s mechanism and a crease mark will not be made. Sew
the tuck as described above.
9.4
Fig. 41: Tucker Creating a set of tucks
Using silk and chiffon
It is possible to tuck silks as easily as cotton fabric. Soft fabrics are harder to crease but may be tucked
successfully if a piece of paper is slipped under the Tucker.
It is also necessary to have the sewing machine’s upper and lower tensions adjusted correctly as too tight a tension
will cause the fabric to pucker. There is also the risk that the thread will break when the tuck is pressed.
9.5
Fine tucks and cross tucking
When making fine tucks it is necessary to use thread of the proper size to suit the fabric. The secrets of attractive
tucking are a fine needle, fine thread and a short stitch length.
It is recommended to carry out tests on a spare piece of the fabric to be tucked to ensure the tensions are set
correctly.
When making cross tucks, first decide on the combination of tuck
and space required and set the Tucker accordingly. Tuck the entire
piece of fabric lengthwise, then crosswise over the tucks, Fig. 42.
Care should be taken to see that the tucks lie in the proper direction
before starting the crosswise tucks. To prevent the fabric from
becoming bias as it is tucked, press the tucks with an iron before the
cross tucks are made.
Attractive cross tucking can also be achieved by first tucking the
fabric lengthwise and then bias across the tucks.
Using Sewing Machine Attachments
Page 22 / 26
Fig. 42: Tucker Fine tucks and cross tucking
V1.1
10 Underbraider
The Underbraider is used to create braided designs by applying
narrow braids and trims. The braid or trim is guided accurately so
that it is caught by the needle.
The Underbraider is a plate that fits to the base plate of the sewing machine with a thumbscrew. It is used in
conjunction with a Quilting Foot.
The braid passes through the two guide tubes on the blue steel spring of the Underbraider. Any braid or trim that
will fit in the tubes and can be stitched through the centre may be used.
10.1 Setting up
1. Open the slide plate and insert the Underbraider. Slide it to the right so that the two clips on the underside latch
onto the throat plate and the small peg fits in the hole in the throat plate to the right of the feed dog. Close the
slide plate.
2. Secure the plate with a thumbscrew inserted through the slot and screwed in the hole in the machine’s base
plate. Ensure the thumbscrew is fully tightened.
3. Fit the Quilting Foot to the needle bar. The adjustable bar can either be removed or left in place to help as a
guide when braiding in parallel rows.
10.2 Braiding
1. Mark out the design to be braided on the wrong side of the fabric as
the trim is attached from underneath the fabric. Alternatively, use a
perforated paper pattern, see below. A braiding design should always
be started where it is convenient to pull the braid through to the
underside. A good starting point is often in the middle of the design or
at the end of a scroll.
2. Ensure the braid can be pulled freely from its roll. Pass the braid from
the left between the blue steel spring and the bottom plate until it
enters the front and back braid guide tubes. It may be found
necessary to force the braid into place by pulling it or lifting the blue
steel spring. The end of the braid should emerge from the guide tube
under the needle.
3. Place the fabric, with the wrong side uppermost, over the top of the
braid.
4. Select a medium stitch length for normal use. However, when
braiding tight curves, it is sometimes necessary to use a shorter stitch
length in order to reproduce the design accurately.
5. Lower the presser foot and stitch the design, Fig. 43. Sew slowly
enough in order to follow the design accurately. The braid should not
require guiding except to check that it does not turn over as it enters
the guide tube.
6. When the design includes very sharp changes of direction, for
example when braiding a square corner, stop sewing with the needle
in the fabric at the point where the direction changes. Raise the
presser bar, pivot the fabric about the needle and line up the design
for the next section. Lower the presser bar and continue to sew.
7. To finish off neatly, make a small hole at either end of design and pull
the ends of the braid through to the underside of the fabric. Fasten
the ends neatly with hand stitches.
Using Sewing Machine Attachments
Page 23 / 26
Fig. 43: Underbraider Braiding
V1.1
10.3 Copying braiding designs
A perforated paper pattern can be used as an alternative to tracing out the braiding design on the fabric. The
sewing machine is used to create the paper pattern, which is then pinned to the fabric and torn away when the
braiding is finished.
To create a perforated pattern:
1. Draw or transfer the braiding design onto a piece of paper.
2. If multiple copies of the pattern are required, place several sheets
of paper below the sheet with the design.
3. Attach the quilter foot and, without threading the machine, follow
the design on the top sheet of paper with the needle to create a
perforated pattern, Fig. 44.
10.4 Braiding on net and fine materials
To braid successfully on net or other fine material it is necessary to
have the design marked out on paper. If the material is difficult to
stitch then another sheet of paper placed under the Quilting Foot may
be found helpful.
Using Sewing Machine Attachments
Page 24 / 26
Fig. 44: Underbraider Creating a perforated pattern
V1.1
11 Zipper Foot
The narrow Zipper Foot makes it easy to sew close to a raised
edge. It rides easily over pins and multiple layers of fabric. It is
typically used for attaching zippers, corded welting and corded
seams.
The Zipper Foot is much narrower than other attachment allowing stitching to be place near to a raised edge. It
can be adjusted so that the needle passes to the left or the right of the toe of the foot. The hinged action ensures it
rides easily over pins, thick fabrics, multiple layers of fabric and cross seams. It is typically used for attaching
zippers and making corded welting and corded seams. There are different
styles of Zipper Foot but they all do the same thing.
11.1 Attaching a zipper
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
Before fitting the Zipper Foot, machine baste the placket opening on the
garment where the zipper is to go using the standard presser foot and
press the seam open.
Fit the Zipper Foot to the machine.
Position the foot to the right of the needle by loosening the screw at the
back of the Zipper Foot. Align the notch on the left side of the toe with the
needle hole in the throat plate. Ensure the needle passes cleanly through
the notch and then re-tighten the screw.
Open the zipper and place it face down on the seam allowance with the
edge of the teeth at the seam line.
Turn the back seam allowance away from the body of the garment.
Stitch the zipper tape to the seam allowance, Fig. 45.
Adjust the foot so that it is to the left of the needle.
Close the zipper and turn it face up.
Smooth back the seam allowance at the edge of the zipper.
Top stitch the seam allowance to the tape close to the folded edge,
Fig. 46.
Turn the garment to the right side.
Fold the zipper to the front of the garment.
Pin in place from the right side of the garment and baste in position.
Move the foot to the right side of the needle.
Stitch across the lower end of the zipper and up the side to the top,
Fig. 47, and remove the basting.
Fig. 45: Zipper Foot –
Attaching a zip - 1
Fig. 46: Zipper Foot Attaching a zip - 2
Fig. 47: Zipper Foot Attaching a zip - 3
Using Sewing Machine Attachments
Page 25 / 26
V1.1
11.2 Corded welting
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizes and when covered with a firmly woven
fabric makes a corded welting that is an excellent seam finish.
The welting is prepared in advance and then stitched into the seam. Cut a
true bias strip 30mm wide, plus three times the width of the cord. Sew strips
together on the longwise grain to obtain desired length, Fig. 48.
1.
2.
3.
4.
Position the Zipper Foot to the left-side of the needle.
Enclose the cord in the bias strip with the raw edges even.
Lower the presser bar.
Sew close to the cord, using a stitch length slightly longer than for plain
seaming of the same fabric, Fig. 49. Avoid stitching very close to the cord.
Fig. 48: Preparing welting
11.3 Corded seams
The corded seam is a typical treatment for slip covers, children’s clothes,
blouses and lingerie.
The method below produces evenly joined straight seam edges and tightly
set welting. Curved seams are corded as easily as straight seams except that
a shorter stitch should be used. Since the seam allowance of the welting is
bias, it is easy to shape it to the seam.
1. When cording a seam, the Zipper Foot is usually adjusted to the right of
the needle so that the bulk of the work will fall to the left.
2. Attach the corded welting to the right side of a single seam edge, using
the same length stitch as used for welting. Guide the edge of the foot next
to the cord, but do not get too close, Fig. 50.
3. Place the attached corded welting over the second seam edge and pin or
baste together.
4. Keep the first stitching uppermost as a guide and position the seam under
the needle.
5. Sew, this time keeping the foot as close as possible to the cord, Fig. 51.
Fig. 49: Zipper Foot Corded welting
Fig. 50: Zipper Foot Corded seams - 1
Fig. 51: Zipper Foot Corded seams - 2
Using Sewing Machine Attachments
Page 26 / 26
V1.1