Tannin
Grease
Dye
Protein
Mud
Alcohol
Rust
Coffee, tea, cola, fruit juice, washable ink
Cooking fats, salad oils, cream, butter, vitamin drops, lubricating oils and greases
Mercurochrome, Merthiolate, grass, permanent ink
Meat, egg, blood
Beer, whiskey, wine
Iodine
Colored pigment in waxy or plastic carrier Lipstick
Wash immediately. If the stain has aged, pour boiling water on it first from a height. Wash in synthetic detergent. Do not use soap. Bleach with sodium perborate or chlorine bleach, if necessary.
Pretreat with liquid detergent. Wash in hot detergent water . Add ammonia for heavy stains. On fabrics containing nylon or polyester, use a grease solventbased spray. Then wash in hot water and detergent.
Use bleach. A color-removing bleach is sometimes best for white fabrics .
Wash in lukewarm (not hot) water and synthetic detergent . If the stain has set treat it with enzymes .
Wash with perborate bleach .
Wash immediately in hot water and detergent.
Pretreat with lemon juice or commercial rust remover in a glass or plastic bowl. Use commercial removers carefully. Do not use chlorine bleach. Then wash.
Moisten and place over boiling water. Then wash .
Chewing gum
Candle wax, crayon
Fingernail polish
Ball point pen ink
Oil-based paint
Latex-based paint
Spray with solvent-based stain remover. Then wash .
Bleach any remaining stain.
Scrape off excess wax. Spray with solvent-based stain remover. Wash in hot water to which ammonia has been added. Bleach any remaining stain.
On fabrics made from acetate , triacetate, or modacrylic fibers, dissolve the plastic film in banana oil. Bleach any residual stain. On other fabrics, use fingernail polish remover.
Spray with hair spray and wash . Bleach if necessary.
Soak in turpentine or gasoline. Then wash .
Wash immediately in hot, detergent water .
Chill in freezer until gum is hard . Crack gum off fabric. Use grease solvent to remove remaining traces.
•rhis chart was developed by Dr . Ruth Galbraith former Dean of the School of Home Economics, Auburn University.
The information given is for education purposes only . Reference to commercial products or trade names is made with t he understanding that no discrim i nation is i ntended and no endorsement by the Alabama Cooperative Extension System is implied.
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Exteni1on
CIRCULAR HE-509
Many pieces of good clothing have been discarded because of spots and stains or the damaged fabric caused by improper removal techniques. But, stain removal doesn't have to be complicated . Just observe the following guide.
Know as much about the stain and fabric as possible. Read labels carefully .
Treat stains as quickly as possible.
If the garment is worth saving, it is worth the extra time and effort.
You may need to repeat a procedure several times to remove a difficult stain.
Test your procedure on a hidden area to check color change or fabric damage .
Because today's dyes, fabrics, fibers , and finishes are complex, it may be impossible to remove a stain without damaging the fabric. When in doubt, let your dry cleaner do the work.
Because the removal of many stains depends on prompt treatment, it is wise to keep supplies on hand. Stain removal kits sell for up to $14. But, stain removal products aren't expensive; you can put together your own kit for less . You can buy the supplies in supermarkets, drug stores, and hardware centers. In fact, you may already have many of the needed products on hand.
Begin by making this stain removal fact sheet part of your kit. Use it to help you choose the correct stain removal methods.
Then include absorbent materials, solvents, dry and liquid laundry detergents, exzyme products, prewash spot and stain removers, and bleaches (both chlorine and oxygen).
Store your supplies in a box or container well out of reach of children but close to your washer. Follow the instructions on the product labels when selecting the best place for storage .
Before using a product, always read the label precautions related to personal and fabric safety.
is applied directly to certain stains to absorb the staining material from the fabric.
You need a good supply of clean, absorbent cotton, white paper towels, white facial tissues, or soft white cloths. Clean sponges may be used, but test the stain remover to be sure the sponges will not be damaged. Cornmeal, cornstarch, and talcum powder can also act as absorbents.
are used to dissolve the stain and float it out of the fabric. If the staining material is held together with an oil or grease base, use a grease solvent. If materials are water or alcohol soluble, then use water or alcohol to dissolve the stain.
Effective solvents are dry cleaning compounds, such as petroleum solvent, petroleum hydrocarbon, petroleum distillate, perchloroethylene, or trichloroethane; water ; alcohol (70- to 90-percent concentration with no color or fragrance added); and fingernail polish remover.
Using the correct solvent is essential. No amount of physical action will remove a stain if you use the wrong solvent.
contain drycleaning solvents and detergents and come in aerosol, liquid, or pump forms. They are effective for oily stains on permanent press and synthetic fabrics such as nylon and polyester. Generally, you apply them directly to dry fabric and then launder.
But always carefully follow the manufacturer's directions. Do not spill or spray them on table tops or appliances because they will damage some plastics.
are also effective on greasy stains. They were originally intended to remove grease from hands and household surfaces so they are safe for most fabrics. But always test them first. Such products usually contain petroleum distillates, so observe the precautions.
are available in liquid and powder forms. Liquid detergents are more convenient and

effective for pretreating spots and stains since the water-based solution penetrates the fabric more effectively. Any liquid laundry detergent can be used as a pre-spotter.
To pretreat spots and stains with liquid detergent, pour a small amount directly on the stain and rub and flex it briskly . Place the pretreated item in the washer with the rest of your clothes.
To pretreat with powdered detergent, mix a small amount with enough water to form a thick paste . Use it as you would a liquid detergent.
Enzymes are often used in the stain removal process after you have tried solvents and detergents.
They are generally used on blood or on food stains containing proteins. Enzymes convert insoluble substances into simpler compounds that are more soluble and readily removed from the fabric.
Enzymes work best in a 1 /2-hour warm water soak. Check your fabric's colorfastness first. Do not pour enzymes directly on damp fabrics. And do not use enzymes with chlorine bleach because the bleach stops the enzymes ' effectiveness .
Bleaches are one of the last processes to try in removing stains. Bleach takes out color by chemically changing the colored molecule and sometimes by changing it to a soluble form . There are two general types of bleach-chlorine and oxygen.
Chlorine is available as a liquid. Look for the word, hypochlorite, on the label. Chlorine bleach works faster and causes quick color change. It is also the most damaging to fabr i c . Do not use it on silk , wool, or spandex fibers or on some flame-retardant or resin-finished fabrics . Chlorine bleach also damages urethane fabrics and polyurethane foam.
Chlorine bleach can react with iron in hard water and produce rust stains. Test it by adding 1 tablespoon of bleach to 1 cup of hot water. If the water turns red or brown, it contains too much iron. Then you should use only oxygen bleaches.
Read your garment's care label to find if using bleach is safe. If in doubt about the fabric's colorfastness , test for color change by mixing 1 tablespoon of bleach in 1
/ 4 cup of water and applying it to a hidden area of the garment. Wait 3 minutes and rinse with water. If the color has changed, do not use chlorine bleach.
Chlorine bleach deteriorates over time and in light. This is why it is sold in either dark or opaque bottles. If you don't use too much bleach, it might be better to buy it in small rather than large quantities .
Oxygen bleach in liquid form is hydrogen peroxide . The dry form is sold in your supermarket with the detergents and liquid bleaches . Look for perborate or all-fabric on the label. Oxygen bleach is safe for all fabrics, but garments should be tested for colorfastness. It is also slower acting.
To test oxygen bleach , use 1 or 2 tablespoons to
2 cups of water . Apply it to a hidden area of your garment . If the color changes, do not use the dry oxygen bleach. Try a 3-percent solution of hydrogen peroxide which is sold as a mild antiseptic. Do not use the stronger solution sold for bleaching hair .
Hydrogen peroxide is safe for all fibers, but dyed fabrics should be tested for colorfastness . Rinse fabrics thoroughly to remove bleach from fabrics .
For successful stain removal, the correct technique is as important as the correct product. Use one of the following procedures.
Sponging with absorbent material, such as cotton, white paper towels, or clean white cloths, can transfer the stain from your garment into the sponging pad. Place the stain on absorbent material. Work from the underside of the stain to avoid driving it through the fabric . Sponge the stain with a light brushing motion , working from the edge to the center to prevent carrying the stain out into the fabric. Work carefully and patiently. Avoid circular motions because rings can develop. Brush irregularly around the edge . Move the absorbent material each time you apply the stain remover. Also, change the sponging pad and absorbent material often to prevent the chance of restaining your fabric .
Rubbing with a spoon will loosen stains on sturdy fabrics, but this method should not be used on delicate ones . Place the stained area directly on the work surface without absorbent material underneath . Add stain remover. Rub the stain with the bowl of a stainless steel or plastic spoon, using short, light strokes to avoid damaging the fabric.
Tamping with the bristles of a soft, clean brush works well on some sturdy fabrics. Work without absorbent material under the stain. Use the brush as if you were driving a tack with a small hammer. Raise the brush 2 or 3 inches and bring it down squarely on the stain , using a light action . Never use so much pressure that the bristles bend . Too much tamping can damage even sturdy fabrics. Never try it on delicate ones .
Unidentifiable stains on a washable fabric should be laundered first. Then if any stain remains, try the following suggestions, in order, until the stain disappears. Test each cleaning agent on your fabric first for color change .
1 . Sponge the area with a nonflammable drycleaning solvent to remove any possible oil. Then air-dry the fabric.
2. Apply a paste made from waterless hand cleaner and gently rub . Let it stand awhile and repeat . Rinse well with water .
3. Soak it in cold water for at least 1/ 2 hour.
4 . Apply a liquid detergent solution (1 table spoon in 1 /2 cup of water) and a few drops of vinegar. Rinse thoroughly .
5. Apply a liquid detergent solution with a few drops of ammonia~ Rinse .
6. Sponge with alcohol and pat with a pad of absorbent material dampened with alcohol. Allow the fabric to air-dry.
7 . Soak the garment in an enzyme presoak .
Check the package for soaking time.
8. Launder, using bleach if it is safe for the fabric . (Check the garment label.) Air-dry until you are sure the stain is out.
If the garment is expensive, it would be wise to take it to a dry cleaner for professional help rather than trying these steps.
Invisible stains may seem strange, but if the staining material is not washed out, it can show up later . Many fruit juices and drinks disappear into the fabric, leaving no visible stain . However, sugars are deposited in the fabric. If the fabric is then drycleaned, the heat will turn the sugar brown (caramelize). Dry-cleaning fluid doesn't dissolve these sugars . After the stain becomes visible, it can't be removed. So if you spill juice or a soft drink on a fabric that must be dry cleaned, flush it out with water promptly-even if the stain is invisible .
References
Feather, Betty. Stop , Li s t e n and L e arn : Stain Removal fr o m
Washable Fabrics. tens io n.
University of M i ssour i -Lincoln University E x -
Howe, Jeraldine R. Spot and Stain Removal for Washabl e
Fabrics . Cooperative Extension Serv i ce , Kansas State University.
Galbraith , Ruth Legg . Better Washdays: Detergents and
Laund e ring Procedures . Extension Service , University of Il linois .
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Exteni1on
Approved for Extension use in Alabama by Carol Centrallo, Extension
Apparel and Textile Management Specialist, Assistant Professor,
Consumer Affairs, Auburn University. Originally prepared by Evelyn L.
Brannon, former Clothing Specialist .
For more information, call your county Extension office . Look in your telephone directory under your county ' s name to find the number .
Issued in fu1therance of Cooperative Extension work in agriculture and home economics, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, and other related acts, in cooperation with the U .
S . Department of Agriculture . The Alabama Cooperative
Extension System (Alabama A&M University and Auburn University) offers educational programs, materials, and equal opportunity employment to all people without regard to race, color, national origin, religion, sex, age, veteran status, or disability . UPS, 15M07, Rep. 2:97 HE-509
The following precautions must be followed when using hazardous cleaning agents such as chlorine bleach , rubbing alcohol, ammonia, and dry-cleaning solvent.
Solvents
•Many dry-cleaning solvents, alcohol, and nail polish removers are flammable . Buy products labeled "fire proof ," if possible. Do not use them while smoking or near an open flame such as a pilot light. Do not work near electrical equipment such as a refrigerator, fan , or vacuum cleaner because of the danger of sparks.
•Do not breathe solvent vapors. Always work in a well-ventilated room or out-of-doors .
Use only a small amount at a time. Keep the bottle capped when not in use . Do not pour solvent into a small dish to work from.
•If you spill solvent on your skin, wipe it off with a paper towel and then wash it immediately . Wear rubber gloves to protect your hands .
•If you spill solvent on your clothes , change them at once and hang them outside until the odor is gone .
•Do not use dry-cleaning solvent in a washing machine. Let the solvent in a garment evaporate before putting it in the washer. Do not put a garment wet with solvent into a clothes dryer .
•Test all solvents on an inside seam to be sure they do not harm the fabric or color.
•When using two solvents, always treat the stain with a dry solvent before using a wet one .
Chlorine Bleach
•Do not use chlorine bleach with ammonia. Mixing them can produce a poisonous gas .
•Do not use chlorine bleach in combination with vinegar . This mixture speeds up the bleaching action but may damage your fabric .
•Do not use chlorine bleach on fabrics made of silk, wool, or spandex fibers; on some fabrics with special fire-retardant or creaseresistant finishes (check the label); or on urethane fabrics or polyurethane foam.
•Do not use chlorine bleach if the care label says , Do Not Bleach .
General
Protect work surfaces by covering with aluminum foil. Or use a heavy glass pie plate or casserole as a stain removal work surface.