[[1]]
Darjeeling Sikim Himalayah
Aug 30 1848 *1
My dear Father
I wrote you by the last Marseilles mail, since which my time has been fully employed
as heretofore. The rain it raineth every day, & the whole country between the foot of
the hills & the Ganges is underwater as to this place, were it not 700 odd feet above
the plains it would soon be swamped too, for such lots of rain was never seen nearer
than the west of Scotland. Plants seem to enjoy it for they are coming out & flowering
faster than ever now the ground is strewed with Galium, Gnaphalium & your little
Hydrocotyle nepalensis in inconceivable profusion, the steep riverside banks
covered with three species of Cyrtandraceae, very handsome, a Torenia like Asiatica
but smaller flowered (same color) Polygona, Balsams, Hypericum, Epilobium,
Urticeae in scores, Hydrangea, Adamia, Cyanea,& a new Ophelia. The prevailing
trees are Laurineae chestnut Oaks, Alder or Birch, Bucklandia, Magnolia in great
proportion, Cherry & various Rosaceous trees. These are climbed by Araliaceae,
Hydrangea, a few Vitis, Polygona & a curious Amaranthaceous thing. of Grasses we
have absolutely none, Ranunculaceae perhaps a Clematis not in flower yet 0 -- Crucifera 1, a
Cardamine probably hirsuta. Umbeliferae several, including the largest extra African
Hydrocotyle I have ever seen. A Bignonia, like picta is abundant! so have one or two
other species been all the year -- a Mimulus is semperflorens & very pretty -- a very
fine new Magnolia has just come into flower, with very long narrow pubescent
leaves, I had the foliage from Tonglo some time since, & had marked the Tree, but
Campbell brought me an enormous load of it from 1000 ft or so below this, it smells
deliciously of liquorice.
My party returned from Tonglo the other day bringing as usual none of the things I
sent them for, but lots of others, perhaps as good, Meconopsis Nepalensis a superb
plant with really hundreds of flowers on each plant. Clematis acuminata, a handsome
Thalictrum, Aconitum palmatum, which they assure me is the Bik poison used in
Sikim [Sikkim] at any rate & a Compositae brought with it has the similar effects. Of
the poison I have procured a little more, but very
[[2]] little. There being no chiefs in this part of the country or any but miserably poor
natives who can command no supply. I have two attempting hats for you, used by
Lepchas, made neatly[?] of Bamboo platted over leaves, the brims are more than 4
feet across. I am also getting a Lepcha umbrella made which consists of similarly
constructed hood worn over the head thus [an illustration of a person wearing a
triangular hood over the upper body appears here].
My palms now number 9 species, Phoenix 4, Caryota 1. Caryota Calamus 5 & 2 other
genera I can't name by Kunth. I have museum specimens of all, but they are great
troubles. I have also two excellent specimens of the Cycas, one with roots but too
large I fear to live, I only got them this morning from a place about 10 miles off,
where I first found it & where only I have seen it: in a fearfully hot narrow valley
blocked up at both ends with mts: the Ficus elastic grows with it Pinus longifolia,
Shorea robusta, Careya arborea, long Sacchara, Arums, Pothos, & such like heat
loving plants. There are 8 Bamboos here, Campbell has got me specimens of all, & I
have dried the leaves & procured sticks for the museum, both long bits & short, the
latter you had better split to shew[sic] their thickness, placing the section beside the
stick: I have procured the leaves of all but they scarcely betray specific differences; I
can only get the flower of 4, which belong to two genera at least. Tabasheer is found
here, but I have not been able to get any yet. It is only today that I have found out
that there are two distinct Bananas here, one grows from 4 -- 6500ft; the other below
that limit: the male flowers are totally different & the seeds also: of wild cult[ivated].
var[ietie]s there are several hill var[ietie]s, but not of from the domesticated wild stock,
they all affirm[?], of which no use is made. The Rices are now in seed, I have got
little sheaves of 8 kinds for you, they are very pretty, as are some of the other
Cerealie; Panica -- Enormous Cucumbers are much eaten, but these I cannot do
more than sketch hurriedly, they are of the same species as in the plains I believe.
the wild species are numerous & generally poisonous of course & a vegetable must
be very bad to be acknowledged poisonous by these people who may come under
Sambos definition of the genus Homo, "a omnivorous tripod who requires[?] all he
can get" Fern tops (not roots or pith) Solanum leaves, vitis &c. Urticae (not that they
raise the spring kail under glass, or make soup of the nettles) Bolete &
[[3]] [large, rough illustrations appear here, they show a dissected fruit of the
Cucurbitaceae described below (Hodgsonia heteroclita), annotations read "Roots
always double a little one on one side", "embryo young flat"]
[[4]] Polypore that would give Klotzsch or Berkely [Berkeley] the stomach ache (& on
which in truth they do often poison themselves,) especially scitamineae buds & roots
of some species. The number of berries eaten is very great vitis, Antidesma (the
Myrica I can't get or hear of). But the most curious eatable fruit is of a magnificent
plant that has puzzled me beyond any--thing -- Evidently a Cucurbitaceae (not
Nhandirobaea) a very large climber I procured in the hot valleys, the fruit is as large
as a human head many lobed & covered with a rich brown short pubescence
contains several nuts not ripe yet each with an albuminous (apparently) seed. The
Se tendrils are axillary. Flower white with rich brown solid veins[?] & white fimbriated
border as in Trichosanthes. The nuts imbedded in a half fleshy & half corky pulp I
have a good drawing of all but the ♀ flower which I have not seen. I found it
scrambling over Markea & other beeches in the hot valleys 5000 ft below this,
appended is a sketch: Epiphytial Orchideae are quite off flowering & terrestrial going
out. Scitmanineae still are numerous 2000ft below this, & two very handsome
Epiphytic species up here, one 4 feet high. All the trees, especially old Chestnuts &
Oaks, are copiously garnished with [one word struck through] epiphytes, especially
Begonia, Cyrtandeae, Ferns, Urticeae, Orchideae, Scitamineae. Streptolirion is in full
flower & so pretty that I sent a box of roots to Calcutta *2. One, yellow, has solitary
flowers enclosed in 2 spathed bractea, the other has raceme of orange red flowers, I
can find neither described, but I want the seed vessels to determine. Araliaceae are
a much larger family here than even in Nepaul [Nepal]. I refer Helwingia to this order
with very little hesitation. There is a sad want of naked rock here & consequently of
alpine plants, both in Bhotan [Bhutan] & in the N[orth]. W[est]. the alpine plants
descend much lower than they do here. At this house (7400 ft) I am exactly at the
upper limit of Figs & Pepper & at the lower of Rhododendron. I think I told you that
Epiphyt[ic]. orchid ascend to 10,000, which is the lower limit here of Thalictrum,
Delphinium, Meconopsis, Rosa, Ranunculus, Primula & Taxus, all of which descend
considerably lower W[est]. of this, & East too. It is curious that plants should ascend
higher so near the highest mt in the glo whole range.
My men in the Terai send plants up daily by post to Campbell who sends them on to
me, occasionally a very good thing comes, but the plants are very much those of all
hot jungles, more Silhet [Sylhet] species though than anywhere further W[est]. I sent
3 men to Thibet [Tibet] on the last day I wrote to you[,] they have not returned yet & I
fear their collections will be spoiled. The men from Sikkim brought some very good
things but nothing alpine except some Rhododendrons (none new) in fruit, an Iris, &
Cotoneaster?
Nothing can exceed Campbell's attentions to me, now, I expect that Colvile has told
him how savage I was on my arrival, he was mentally out of order on my
[[5]] [a rough illustration of a leaf and fruit of the Cucurbitaceae described above
[Hodgsonia heteroclita] covers this whole page, annotations read "fruit 10 inch diam"
"Foliage & stem glabrous"]
[[6]] first coming up, & is I believe really [part of mss missing] ly anxious to get me to
the snow & I have drawn up anoth<er>[part of mss missing] I have written further a
pathetic appeal to Lord D[alhousie]. [part of mss missing] is not I fear getting on well
at Calcutta being determined to try & do every--thing himself, is working himself to
death & giving some umbrage but all this entre nous of course. He has behaved with
remarkable kindness to Campbell here whose treasury was through some fault of his
(in part) robbed of £1000 & culpable for the whole which Lord D[alhousie] remitted to
£200. I have got a route to the snow in 5 1/2 days journey from this on the flanks of
Kinchin [Kanchenjunga] & shall attempt it with or without permission; in the latter
case with very small hope of success, but every mile is botanizing ground & one
direction is as good as another. Should I be allowed to visit the snow I shall start as
soon as the weather allows (October) & to a village about 12000 or 14000 ft up the
shoulder of Kinchin & shall hope to be a month away & if at all successful return & go
again next may: for I am sure it will be better to work one part of the Himal. well from
the Terai up to the snow, than to go N[orth]. W[est]. to the passes W[est]. of Nepaul
now so much better known. This too is the middle of the range, contains the highest
mountain & so evidently differs in the geographical distribution of its vegetation from
what lies E[ast]& W[est], that it presents the best point for research. The field is quite
untrodden & I hope to have 2000 species before I leave this year. I doubt not you will
approve me making the snow of this longitude my first aim, & failing that I seek it in
upper Assam where alone it is accessible E[ast]. of this & that only by arriving at
Sudya in October, which is improbable this year. I am still in the dark you see as to
the future, but that you may know all I can fore--dream[.] I may say that it is possible
I will go from here in Nov[embe]r to Gowahatty & then up to the Tea districts or
across the Cossya to Churra & thence to Munneypore supposing me thereabouts
next March: if I can visit the snow of Kinchin in March May next year I will return here
& do so go to snow, if not go on to Sudya to try for Dupha--Bom. I am anxious to look out
for a station fit for Gutta Percha in Assam
I have only seen the sun 3 times this month, so as to get observations. The time
here was 3/4 hour out, & my watch which you gave me before I went with Ross the
only good time keeper here, so that all sorts of people send to me for the time. I
spent one day polishing up my surveying lore, so as to be ready for the Terra
incognitae, but I am wretchedly off for instruments. Capt[ain] Thuillier the Ass[istan]t.
Surveyor General has been most kind in lending me instruments of his own; & I am
very much indebted to him.
I am rejoiced that your arm gets better. I shall send my collections home in the cold
weather: they are very bulky now.
Best love to all yr most affect[ionate] son | Jos D Hooker [signature]
I send Thomson[']s last letter for the Journal. -- Do not allude to Cunningham.
[[7]] [this whole page is covered with a rough illustration of the male flower of the
Cucurbitaceae described on page 4 (Hodgsonia heteroclita). Annotations label the
glands, Calyx 5 cleft, tails, colum[sic] and ♂ flower nat[ural] size]
ENDNOTES
1. An annotation written in another hand records that the letter was received Oct 31 st.
2. The current name of the city formerly called Calcutta is Kolkata.
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