Vol. 13, No.5
September/October 2009
University of Illinois Extension, Pike County Horticulture Newsletter
Pike County
1301 E. Washington St.
Pittsfield, IL 62363
Phone: (217) 285-5543
Fax: (217) 285-5735
If you need a reasonable accommodation to participate
in any program we offer, please contact University of
Illinois Extension, Pike County at 217-285-5543.
Watch future newsletters for details of horticulture
telenets coming up in 2010!
Articles in This Issue:
Please Send Email Addresses .............................. 1
Fall Garden Wrap-Up ......................................... 1
Ragweed and Allergies ........................................ 2
Harvesting Black Walnuts................................... 3
Leaves, Leaves, Everywhere ................................ 3
Plant Names Can Be Deceiving ......................... 4
Get Ready to Feed the Birds ................................ 5
Hedge Apples – Facts & Myths ........................... 6
Beetle Mania ........................................................ 6
There is a Fungus Amongus ............................... 7
Preserving Ornamental Gourds .......................... 8
Pumpkins & Squash are Ready for Eating ......... 9
Fall Recipes ........................................................ 9
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Ever since the latest postage increase, we have been
trying to cut down our mailing list. We hope you
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you with gardening and horticulture information
through this newsletter.
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We really appreciate your help!
Fall Garden Wrap-Up
Wrapping up the garden for the season is not the oneday project many people assume. This process is
usually done over the course of several weeks, since
houseplants summering outdoors may need to come
inside in September and some outdoor gardening
activities may extend into mid or late October.
Home gardeners might find it helpful to follow a "todo" list for fall.
First, bring in houseplants that have summered
outdoors. They should come in when night
temperatures consistently fall into the lower fifties-and this could be as early as September.
When moving the plants inside, try to avoid abrupt
changes in light and temperature. Also check for
insects. Cleaning the pot or repotting the plant may be
enough to control pests. Some plants that have
outgrown their pot may need to be repotted. Pruning
may be in order for plants that have grown vigorously
while outside.
Next, clean up vegetable gardens and annual flower
beds. First, harvest all usable vegetables and annual
flowers. Any leftover debris can be tilled into the soil
or placed into compost piles. Be sure to clean up
weeds as they can harbor diseases and insects.
Add compost and other organic material to enrich the
soil and mulch beds to prevent erosion during the
winter.
Pike County Down To Earth Newsletter
Third, perennial flower beds need to be cleaned up.
Remove weeds to eliminate overwintering sites for
insects and diseases. After a couple of frosts, mulch
the perennial bed with two to three inches of mulch.
The tops of the plants can be cut back now or in the
early spring, depending on when you have the time.
New perennials can be planted in September, and
established perennials can be divided.
The fourth 'to-do' task is tree and shrub maintenance.
Prune deciduous trees after they go dormant or in the
early spring. Prune late-summer and fall-flowering
shrubs after they go dormant. DO NOT prune springflowering shrubs in the fall as you will remove the
flower buds.
Trees and shrubs can be fertilized after they go
dormant. Continue regular watering as long as the
ground is not frozen. This is especially important for
evergreens.
Finally, there are a number of miscellaneous activities
in the garden that are appropriate in the fall season.
These include planting spring-flowering bulbs from
mid-September through mid-October, cleaning garden
tools so they will be ready next spring, seeing to the
proper storage of seeds, fertilizer, and garden
chemicals, and draining and storing water hoses.
Ragweed and Allergies
A snort, a sneeze, followed by two sniffles. Ahh it's
the call of the allergy sufferer. With the tell-tale
symptoms of sneezing, runny nose and itchy watery
eyes an estimated 50 million people suffer each year
from allergies. Although people can be allergic to
many different things (pet dander, work, mold, and
fragrances), pollen is a common allergen.
As fall approaches goldenrod
shows off its bright yellow
flowers so most people blame it
for their summer allergies. In
reality the disregarded ragweed
is the likely culprit. Goldenrod
pollen is not physically adapted
to be an allergen. It has showy
yellow flowers to attract its insect pollinators. Its
pollen is heavy and sticky so it will cling to the insects
for a ride to the next flower. Heavy sticky pollen does
not blow well in the wind or up your nose. However
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ragweed has homely tiny green flowers and relies on
wind pollination. Ragweed overwhelms the air with
lightweight pollen in the hopes it will land on another
ragweed flower. Each ragweed plant can produce an
estimated one billion pollen grains. Just a few plants
can create an invisible cloud of polluting pollen.
In our area two ragweed species are the most
abundant: common ragweed (Ambrosia artemisiifolia)
and giant ragweed (Ambrosia trifida). Both are native
annuals that reproduce from seeds. Common ragweed
is indeed common along roadsides, cultivated fields,
vacant lots and pastures. It grows one to four feet tall
with densely hairy stems and deeply lobed (almost
ferny) leaves. Common ragweed grows well in
gravelly areas along roads where it thrives under
abuses that would knock out most plants.
Giant ragweed is a larger version at 13 to 15 feet tall.
Its coarse, rough stems hold large, slightly hairy
leaves that grow almost a foot long with three or
sometimes five pointed lobes. Giant ragweed can be
common in cultivated fields, fence rows, roadsides
and unmown construction sites. Some populations of
giant ragweed survive even after herbicide
applications.
Ragweeds are very competitive plants that succeed in
areas where few other plants will live. As first invader
plants they love disturbed soil. People are very adept
at disturbing the soil through tilling and construction.
Ragweed seeds can survive in the soil for over thirty
years, just waiting for proper conditions for
germination.
We are hard pressed to find a good use for ragweed;
however the fruits are a highly nutritional food for
songbirds and other wildlife. Prehistoric Native
Americans reportedly collected the fruits for food and
may have actually cultivated giant ragweed.
Since ragweeds are annuals their control hinges on
eliminating seed production. Plants are starting to
produce seed right now so hoeing and cultivating can
help to reduce their populations. Next season remove
plants in May before they flower.
Since ragweed pollen is a common allergen doing
your part to control them helps everyone. People's
sensitivity to certain plants can vary widely so always
discuss your allergies with your health care
professional. Plants shed pollen at different times of
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the year so a look at the calendar might help to narrow
down the culprit.
Gardening during allergy season can be a challenge.
Weather conditions can make a difference in the
pollen levels. The most favorable conditions for high
pollen are warm and dry while high humidity and
rainfall lessens pollen release. Also the time of day
can influence pollen levels. Pollen release is highest in
mid-morning after dew has dried.
If you do go outside during the worst times for pollen
levels, reduce your exposure by wearing gloves, a
long sleeved shirt, hat and sunglasses or goggles. A
pollen mask may be necessary. After working outside
take a shower and thoroughly wash hair and clothes.
Look forward to October. Ragweed allergy season
generally lasts through September.
Harvesting Black Walnuts
Now is a good time to begin harvesting
black walnuts. In general, the light
colored black walnut kernels will have a
milder flavor than the dark ones. If you
prefer light colored kernels, Hull the nuts
as soon as they drop from the tree.
Allowing the hulls to partially decompose
before hulling causes a discoloration of the
kernels.
When black walnuts are mature, their hulls will be
thick and fleshy. They can be mashed and removed by
hand, but using mechanical devices such as a corn
sheller will make the job a lot easier. After hulling,
wash the nuts thoroughly, and spread out away from
sunlight to dry for two to three weeks. Then store in a
cool, dry place.
Because the hard shell can make it difficult to remove
the black walnut kernel, "Temper" the kernels before
the shell is cracked. To "temper" the black walnuts,
plan to soak the nuts in water for one to two hours,
drain and then keep in a closed container for 10 to 12
hours. The kernels will absorb enough moisture to
become tough, yet will remain loose in the shell.
For individuals wanting more information about
growing your own nut trees, selecting appropriate nut
tree varieties, learning about their insect or disease
pests or harvesting nuts, a pamphlet entitled "Nut
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Growing in Illinois" is available online at this
University of Illinois Extension website:
www.aces.uiuc.edu/~vista/html_pubs/NUTGROW/nu
thome.html.
Leaves, Leaves—Everywhere!
As the old saying goes, “what goes up,
must come down,” and leaves are no
exception. With the advent of the much
cooler autumn temperatures, many
trees begin to display a magnificent
display of color. However, even the
prettiest colored leaves will eventually
fall to the ground. Although some trees,
such as the oaks, will wait until late winter for leaf drop
to occur. Leaf disposal should not present a serious
problem for the homeowner, because there are a variety
of uses for them.
How many leaves might a typical homeowner have to
rake this fall? An ordinary, mature tree may have as
many as a quarter of a million leaves on its branches.
So, if you live on a one-half acre lot and have 10 mature
trees…well, try not to think about it!
Leaves make an excellent mulch beneath trees, shrubs
and other landscape plantings. As compared to fresh
green grass clippings, tree leaves that drop in the fall are
relatively dry and can be used as mulch with little or no
odor problems. Leaves collected in the fall with a lawn
mower bagger will contain some grass clippings. This
mixture of leaves and grass can also be used as a mulch
without odor problems.
Leaves are also an excellent source material for
compost. The microorganisms found on leaves are
sufficient to start the composting process. When placed
in a compost pile in the presence of adequate
moisture, leaves will decompose into an excellent
organic soil amendment that can be used as a soil
conditioner.
According to research studies, leaves from different tree
species will decompose at different rates, but the
product is the same. Leathery leaves such as oak leaves
contain more lignin and other woody substances and
therefore take longer to decompose than fine-textured
leaves. Leaf decomposition can be accelerated by
increasing the surface area by mowing the leaves while
they are being collected or shredding them after
collection.
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Leaves collected in a lawn mower bag will contain
some grass clippings. Since they contain more nitrogen
than the leaves, they will help to increase the rate of
decomposition. Additional nitrogen will also speed the
rate of composting.
Dry leaves will require moisture for composting. In
early autumn, leaves will have a moisture content of 30
to 40 percent. Late season leaves will have less than 20
percent moisture. Leaf composting proceeds best with
40 to 60 percent moisture. It is a good idea to use a
garden hose to wet leaves that are to be composted.
Since fresh grass clippings contain 60 to 70 percent
moisture, they can be mixed with leaves to provide
moisture. If the compost pile begins to smell, it is an
indication that it is too wet.
Oxygen is needed for aerobic decomposition to occur. If
the oxygen supply is too low, anaerobic decomposition
will occur and the compost pile will begin to smell. This
problem can be corrected by turning the pile to add
more air.
As leaves decay, they produce heat. The heat of an
active compost pile will peak at 140 to 150 degrees
Fahrenheit. When the temperature of the compost pile
begins to decrease, it is time to turn the pile. Ideally, the
turning process should be repeated three to four times to
get finished compost. Once the leaves turn into leaf
compost, it can be used as a soil conditioner to improve
the tilth and fertility level of soils in the yard and
garden.
Plant Names Can Be Deceiving
"Grumpy", "Frumpy", "Stumpy"...People and plants
can suffer from nicknames. Botanic names are
assigned by certain agreed criteria. However common
names of plants are coined after people, places, past
lives and peculiar relatives. Just wander through a
garden center and a bewildering collection of plant
names vie for your attention. However some plants
suffer needless scorn due to their unfortunate common
names. No marketer would dream up a plant name
with "weed" in it, yet many quality plants are ignored
due to its inclusion.
For example few people would look twice at a gardenworthy plant named Sneezeweed. As a North
American native Sneezeweed, Helenium autumnale,
shows its daisy fall-colored flowers in late summer as
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most plants are winding down. The common name of
Sneezeweed refers to its unfortunate association with
ragweed which blooms at the same time. Sneezeweed
does not cause sneezing nor is it a weed. It is insect
pollinated so the pollen is sticky and does not blow in
the wind as ragweed.
Sneezeweed can
get up to 5 feet tall
so it's best in the
back of the border
or as a lovely late
summer addition
to a naturalized
area. Its long bloom period starts in late summer and
can continue for 8-10 weeks into fall. Some of the
taller cultivars need someone to lean on and are best
planted next to tall grasses such as Big bluestem.
Otherwise they may need staking or a heavy pruning
in June.
Sneezeweed is best as a perennial in a sunny moist
area. A few cultivars are smaller at 2-3 feet tall.
'Crimson Beauty' has mahogany brown flowers.
'Wyndley' bears larger flowers at 2-3 inches in
diameter of coppery brown colors. A new name for
sneezeweed? I'm thinking Cinderella's Coach or
Rodney Dangerfield's Darling.
Some common
names have a split
personality. For
instance, Butterfly
weed. The
"butterfly" part
sounds good but
there's that
disturbing "weed" name again. Butterfly weed,
Asclepias tuberosa, is named after its association with
monarch caterpillars and the milkweed family. As a
native perennial Butterfly weed has "knock your
socks off' Illini orange flowers in summer. Butterfly
weed's relative Common Milkweed, Asclepias
syriaca, can be quite the troublesome weed in fields.
The name milkweed was assigned to all the plants
with the same genus Asclepias. Milk in milkweed
refers to the milky sap exuded if the stems are broken.
We now understand the importance of milkweeds for
providing the required food for monarch caterpillars.
Pretty much all the milkweeds are adored by plant
sucking aphids but they are generally not a huge
problem. Just wait for a hungry ladybug aphid feast or
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a heavy stream of water will dislodge the plant
suckers; just don't drown the monarch caterpillars.
Butterfly weed is slow to establish and slow to emerge
in sprlng. Some of us think Butterfly Weed should be
called Monarch Magic.
to differences in body size, feet and bills, birds not only
prefer different seeds but also different foraging areas.
This does not mean that birds will never feed in a
different area, but you will increase your chances by
catering to their feeding preferences.
Swamp milkweed,
Asclepias incarnata, also
suffers from the same
undeserving shame by
association as Butterfly
weed. Monarch
caterpillars love this
milkweed and the rosy pink flowers on 3-4 foot tall
stems are perfect in the back of a flower garden.
Despite its name, swamp milkweed does well in moist
as well as well drained sites. Many different
butterflies enjoy the sweet nectar of all the milkweeds.
Birds such as juncos, sparrows, cardinals, blue jays and
mourning doves prefer to forage on the ground for
seeds. You will often observe these birds hopping
around the lower branches of shrubs and rustling
through leaf litter in search of seeds and berries. A small
brush pile, open lean-to or grassy patch provides cover
for ground-feeding birds while they eat.
Ironweed, Vernonia
fasciculata, and
rosinweed, Silphium
integrifolium, are
additional native plants
deserving more use in
gardens.
Don't let common names keep you from adding
fascinating plants to your garden. Do a little
homework.
Visit Wildflowers, a website to help gardeners
incorporate wildflowers in their gardens. The
wildflower directory features 144 different Illinois
native wildflowers. It is worth the visit!
http://urbanext.illinois.edu/wildflowers/intro.cfm
Get Ready to Feed the Birds
Fall is the best time to start your bird feeding
program. Birds, small mammals and other
wildlife are actively seeking food sources to
fatten up for migration or for winter
temperatures if they are year-round residents.
By having your feeders up early, there is a
better opportunity for birds to find the feeder
and become accustomed to using it before
winter arrives.
Since enjoying the birds is a major objective,
you will want to locate the feeder where it
can be conveniently viewed—and used. Due
A covered tray feeder raised off the ground on a fence
or pole is the most common feeder you see in people’s
yards. Tray feeders will accommodate most of the
ground feeders plus chickadees, nuthatches and finches.
While this type of feeder will attract the widest variety
of birds, the seeds are not protected from the weather
and can get wet and/or moldy. Squirrels and large
birds, such as grackles and blue jays may also invade a
tray feeder.
Hanging feeders may include hopper, silo and tube
feeders with perches. Hung from a branch, eaves, or a
clothesline, these feeders sway freely in the wind, which
does not bother birds such as finches, chickadees,
woodpeckers and nuthatches. However, some birds
such as sparrows, get a little “sea-sick” and prefer more
stability. Fill large hanging feeders with sunflower
seeds to attract cardinals and blue jays. Small feeders
should be geared more toward finches, chickadees,
nuthatches and tufted titmice. Niger seed is very
attractive to goldfinches and works well in small-hole
tube feeders, which avoid waste.
Woodpeckers and nuthatches are
primarily insect eaters. They prefer
foods high in protein and fat such as
suet and peanut butter that can be
dispersed in clinging feeders. Made of hardware cloth,
mesh bags, pine cones, coconuts or other “structures”
lacking perches, clinging feeders are excellent for
dispensing peanuts to smaller birds or suet to insecteaters.
Lastly, just like persnickety kids, birds have different
food preferences. Hands down, black-oil sunflower
seeds are the most popular food among a large variety
of birds. Juncos and sparrows go wild for white proso
millet. Goldfinches cannot resist niger seed. Chickadees
Pike County Down To Earth Newsletter
and titmice will delightfully indulge themselves with
peanuts. In a nutshell, the key to successfully attracting
wildlife to your backyard is to add variety.
Hedge Apples—Facts and Myths
At this time of the year,
many people who
frequent farmer’s markets,
garden centers and even
some supermarkets will
see a yellow-green
grapefruit-sized fruit that
is often called a hedge apple. Hedge apples are
produced by the Osage-orange tree (Maclura
pomifera), which is commonly grown throughout
Illinois. The Osage-orange is a member of the
Mulberry Family and is commonly called a hedge tree.
As early-American settlers began moving west during
the nineteenth century, many Midwest farmers found
the Osage-orange tree to have many admirable
qualities. It is a tough and durable tree; transplants
easily; tolerates poor soils, extreme heat and strong
winds; and has no serious insect or disease problems.
Consequently, it was planted widely as a living fence
because, when its thorny branches were pruned into a
hedge, it provided an impenetrable barrier to livestock.
The wood is extremely hard, heavy and durable, and it
shrinks or swells little compared to the wood of other
trees. Thus, the wood is typically used for fence posts,
treenails, furniture and archery bows. According to
University of Nebraska researchers, dried hedge is the
highest in BTU's of dried wood from native trees
when used as firewood. However, they caution that
burning hedge does result in considerable sparking, so
a protective screen or shield needs to be placed
between the fireplace and the room.
It is the fruit of the Osage-orange that most individuals
find intriguing. Although kids take enjoyment in
throwing them, they are usually considered a nuisance
in the home landscape.
Many people purchase hedge apples believing that
hedge apples can repel or control insects, spiders and
even mice in their homes, basements and garages. The
use of hedge apples as a pest solution is often
communicated as a folk tale complete with testimonials
about apparent success. Unfortunately, there is an
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absence of scientific research and, consequently, no
valid evidence to confirm the claim’s effectiveness. A
few years ago, toxicologists from Iowa State University
extracted compounds from hedge apples that were
found to repel insects when concentrated. However, the
scientists reported that natural concentrations of these
compounds in the hedge apples were too low to be an
effective repellent.
If you decide to pick hedge apples to check out their
ability to control pests or to use the fruit as a fall
decoration, It is important to wear gloves. The milky
juice present in the stems and fruit can cause irritation
to the skin.
Beetle Mania
They're back! Actually they
never really left. Asian lady
beetles have just been
preoccupied with eating soybean
aphids all summer. Just like the hound chasing the fox
the migration of the soybean aphids (you know those
recent pesky clouds of bugs) translates into the
migration of their predator. As their food source
declines in the fields, Asian lady beetles start
searching for a new fast food joint and a winter
retreat.
Lady beetles are considered good bugs. They eat lots
of pest species like aphids and scale. Both the young
larva and the adults feed on a wide range of insects.
Multicolored Asian ladybeetles are very good at
controlling aphids on trees and shrubs. They were first
imported into Georgia to control the pecan aphid.
Even though there are several species of beneficial
native lady beetles in Illinois, this exotic lady is
giving the rest a bad name.
The multicolored Asian lady beetles are one-fourth
inch long and are the VW bug dome shape. They
usually have orange wingcovers with 19 black spots.
No need to count. Their multicolored name comes
from the variety of color possibilities ranging from tan
to red and the spots may be very small to absent, to
large and obvious. As they are biting your arm, you
can also see four black spots behind the head that
forms a "W" when viewed from the front or an "M"
when viewed from behind.
Asian lady beetles like to taste things including us.
They can and do bite in order to discover our fitness
Pike County Down To Earth Newsletter
as a meal. Although they have no venom, the bite
hurts and can leave a red mark. They can also eat
divots out of apples, grapes and raspberries.
In their native areas in Asia these lady beetles spend
the winter in cracks and crevices of cliffs. Cliffs are
tough to find in central Illinois. What's the next best
upright thing around?…… Our buildings of course. In
the fall they start their migration flights. They are
particularly attracted to light colored structures with
sunny exposures. They congregate in large herds on
the sides of buildings. They wander around and enter
buildings through cracks between siding, around
windows, around roof flashing and overhangs. Or they
may fly through opened doors.
If buildings are unheated, the beetles just snuggle
together and wait for spring. In heated buildings
especially on bright sunny days they may start flying
around trying to escape. These eventually die on the
windowsill.
The good news is ladybugs don't reproduce or feed
while they are indoors. Controlling these insects
indoors consists of vacuuming (be sure to empty the
bag afterwards) or your best scoop and toss outside
method. Forget foggers or aerosol sprays. Don't smash
them on furniture or drapes since they can leave a
stain. If crushed, the beetles emit a foul odor. Soon
they will all have gone outside one way or the other.
Insecticide sprays provide limited
help. You may get some satisfaction
out of spraying insecticidal soap
every couple days outdoors on
congregation walls and then
throwing the bottle at them. Outdoor
foundation sprays of residual
pyrethroid insecticides containing
active ingredients such as bifenthrin
or permethrin may be helpful if sprayed now before
beetles find a way indoors.
Preventing ladybeetles from entering buildings is the
best control measure. Caulking cracks and crevices
around windows, along the foundation and around
doors will help reduce the numbers wandering
indoors.
Commercially available indoor black light traps can
be useful in heated storage buildings or garages.
However the traps are effective only at night and best
used in rooms without other lights.
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Remember outdoors ladybugs are good bugs. Repeat
this over and over to yourself as you are scooping
them up from your windowsills. A useful UI fact
sheet
http://www.ipm.uiuc.edu/hyg/insects/asian_lady_beetl
e/index.html
There is a Fungus Amongus
There is a fungus amongus. After an autumn rain a
flush of mushrooms may appear overnight
in the wood mulch near you. Now
before you get concerned that you are
living the invasion of the body snatchers,
realize most of these are growing on
decomposing plant material. Organic mulch,
such as wood chips or shredded leaves, is naturally in
the process of decomposing. That's just what stuff that
"once was alive" does. Like a teenager with a cell
phone, they just go together.
Now let's drop down to the life of a fungus. When we
see a mushroom or toadstool we are seeing the
fruiting or reproductive structure of the actual fungus.
Just like an apple on a tree, the mushroom contains
the spores or fungus "seeds" to produce more fungus.
We do not see the majority of the underground fungus
in these cases. They are either living off the mulch
itself or in the case of slime molds are living off the
bacteria and other critters in the mulch. They may also
be growing off of old tree roots. The tree could have
been cut down years ago, but the roots are still
decomposing. Fungus can live in the soil for years and
only produce mushrooms when the environmental
conditions are right.
You may see what we typically call mushrooms. The
fruiting structure can also look quite weird. Ones that
you may see are stinkhorns, puffballs or
slime molds. With stinkhorns their
reproductive structure looks like a giant
slimy finger. The spores are on top in
goo that may stink and often attracts
flies.
Puff balls look like the name implies - a round ball.
Some can get as large as basketballs. As they ripen,
the ball gets a hole in the top and when the structure is
disturbed it sends out a puff of spores. These are fun
to play with.
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Slime molds are (to use the technical terminology)
just icky. They are not true fungus but will often
appear on the top of mulch. It looks like your dog got
sick, hence its other name "dog vomit fungus". Some
may be bright yellow, but can also be white, gray,
brown or red. They generally quickly turn brown then
kind of white and powdery until they are gone in a
week.
The key to keeping gourds is in harvesting. The first
fruit will mature in late summer. A shriveling and
browning of the stem is evidence that the gourd is
mature.
Ok, what's the bottom line on this landscape fungus?
There are certainly some fungus that cause plant
disease, but it's not these guys. These are not harmful
to landscape plants or people and pets unless they are
eaten. Some mushrooms are edible and some
poisonous. Even guidebooks do not give you the
necessary details to safely eat mushrooms. Question is
"Do you feel lucky, kid?" If you want to eat
mushrooms, go out hunting with an old mushroom
hunter. If they have made it past fifty with their liver
intact, then they are probably doing it right.
Use sharp shears or a knife when harvesting gourds
and leave a few inches of the stem attached to avoid
bruising fruit. This stem may drop off as the gourd
dries; but if it remains intact, it may enhance the
decorative effect.
So what can you do? Wait and the mushrooms will
dry up. However you will probably continue to see the
mushrooms periodically when conditions are right
often after a heavy rain. Eventually the food source
will be depleted. If you have small children or pets,
you should rake or mow off the mushrooms as they
appear. Just aerating the mulch will often help. With
slime molds a heavy stream of water will disperse the
mat. When you cut down a tree, try to remove as
much of the stump and roots as possible.
Dry the gourds in two steps. First, to remove surface
moisture, spread the gourds out on several layers of
newspapers in a warm, dry place. Space the gourds so
they don't touch. This allows air to circulate for faster
drying. Turn the fruits daily, and replace any
dampened newspaper with fresh, dry paper.
Decomposing fungus may be a nuisance but are
important in the nutrient cycle as they release plant
nutrients back into the soil. Plus they are a great
conversation piece.
Preserving Ornamental Gourds
Ornamental gourds add
color and interest to fall
arrangements and
decorations. Children as
well as adults take great
interest in these odd
plants. Gourds, members
of the Cucurbitaceae
family, come in bell, orange, egg, pear and apple
shapes. They may be smooth, warty, colored, plain
striped or ridged in pattern.
Do not test the shell with your fingernail. This will
dent or bruise the shell, making an excellent entry for
bacteria and insects, which can damage the fruit.
Wash the gourds in warm, soapy water, and rinse
them in a mixture of water and household disinfectant.
This removes any soil and soil-borne bacteria clinging
to the shell. Dry each gourd with a soft cloth or towel
to avoid bruising or scratching the skin.
It should take the gourds about one week to dry.
During the surface drying, the shell hardens and the
surface color sets. Discard any fruit that shrivels or
develops soft spots.
For the final drying, wipe the remaining gourds with
household disinfectant. Spread them out on
newspapers in a warm, dark, dry place for three to
four weeks. An attic, warm basement or closet is ideal
for this final drying period. Heat encourages drying
and helps prevent disease development. Darkness
prevents fading of the color.
You can display gourds in their natural state or use a
paste wax or shellac to give gourds a hard, glossy
finish.
Once gourds have been prepared, you can create
designs on the surface of the gourd. Faces, flowers or
other patterns can be penciled on to the surface of the
gourd. Then cut the design with a sharp carving tool,
or burn into the surface with an electric carver or
needle. When the design is complete, wax the cut
surfaces with transparent furniture wax. This helps to
Pike County Down To Earth Newsletter
preserve the gourd. Rewax the surface every few
months.
Fresh flowers, such as chrysanthemums, are also ideal
to use in small tubes of water that can be concealed
among the gourds to keep the flowers fresh.
Evergreens, ivy or autumn leaves can also be used in
the water tubes.
Bittersweet, dried berries, seed pods or fresh fruit also
are interesting when arranged with gourds.
Your display will be more stable if you attach the
gourds to the container, or to each other, with small
pieces of floral clay.
Your imagination is the limit when decorating your
home for fall.
Pumpkin and Squash are Ready for
Eating!
Right now the pumpkins and winter
squash are ripe and ready for eating.
Pumpkins and winter squash are a rich
source of Vitamin A as well as fiber.
Other nutrients you get from pumpkin include
potassium, folic acid, copper, iron and riboflavin. One
cup of cooked, solidly packed pumpkin/squash has
only about 80 calories.
While it is much easier to use canned pumpkin, you
may have a bit of trouble finding canned pumpkin in
your local stores. If pumpkin pie is a must for your
Thanksgiving or other holiday meals, you might need
to resort to buying the whole squash and making your
own pumpkin puree.
There are several varieties of winter
squash available including butternut,
Hubbard, turban, buttercup, acorn,
banana, mammoth, sweet dumpling
and the pumpkin. Choose pumpkin
or squash that has a bright colored skin, is firm and
heavy for the size and has no damaged areas. Smaller
pumpkins/squash may produce better products.
To use the pumpkin/squash, all you need to do is cut it
in half and scoop out the seeds. Place it cut-side down
in a baking dish, and bake in a moderate (350 degree
9
F) oven until the pulp is soft. Let it cool slightly, and
then scoop the flesh out of the shell. You can puree it
in a blender or food processor to make a smoother
product, and then it is ready for pies, pumpkin bread,
cookies or other product made with pumpkin puree.
If you are looking for ways to preserve pumpkin, the
prepared puree can be frozen. If canning pumpkin is
your method of choice, you must can the pumpkin in
chunks.
To can your own pumpkin, wash the pumpkin and
remove the seeds. Cut into 1-inch slices, and peel.
Then cut the flesh into 1-inch cubes. Add the cubes to
a saucepot of boiling water, and boil for 2 minutes—
do not mash or puree.
Pack the hot cubes into hot jars leaving 1-inch of
headspace. Fill the jar to within 1-inch of the top with
boiling hot cooking liquid. Remove air bubbles, wipe
the jar rims, adjust the lids and process in a pressure
canner at 10 pounds pressure—55 minutes for pints
and 90 minutes for quarts.
When you are ready to use the pumpkin, drain off
most of the liquid, mash or puree, and use as you
would commercially canned pumpkin.
Fall Recipes
Lighten Up Your Pumpkin Bread
Pumpkin bread is a fall favorite for many families.
A slice of traditional pumpkin bread can have more
calories and fat than you expect—for a recipe that
uses 1/2 cup of sugar and 1/2 cup of oil, you will
consume at least 155 calories and 9 grams of fat!
University of Illinois Extension has been promoting
altering your recipes to reduce fat and cholesterol for
years. Most baking recipes can be altered with the
end result being a product that is lower in fat and
calories but still tastes good.
Pumpkin bread is no exception—the following
pumpkin bread recipe is one for you to try with your
homemade pumpkin puree!
Low Fat Pumpkin Bread
1 cup pumpkin puree
1/2 cup sugar
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/2 cup plain low fat yogurt
Pike County Down To Earth Newsletter
10
3/4 cup all purpose flour
3/4 cup whole wheat flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup raisins
Fruit Crisp
In a large mixer bowl, beat together pumpkin, sugar,
oil and yogurt. In a medium bowl combine the flours,
baking powder, soda, cinnamon and salt; add to
pumpkin mixture, stirring just until moistened. Stir in
the raisins. Pour into a greased 9x5x3-inch loaf pan.
Bake in preheated 350 F oven for about 1 hour or until
a wooden toothpick inserted near the center comes out
clean. Cool on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Then
remove from pan, and cool completely.
3 Tablespoons rolled oats
2 Tablespoons packed brown sugar
1 Tablespoons all-purpose flour
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1-1/2 Tablespoons margarine or butter
Approximate nutritional value per slice: 105 calories, 2
grams fat, 0 mg cholesterol.
Apple-Acorn Squash
(2 servings)
Fall is a wonderful time of year to make a flavorful warm
fruit crisp. This is a recipe for a small crisp, big enough for
two servings. Two apples, peaches or pears, peeled and
sliced.
Place sliced fruit in a small baking dish. For topping
combine the oats, brown sugar, flour and cinnamon.
Cut in margarine or butter till mixture resembles
coarse crumbs. Sprinkle topping over fruit. Bake at
375°F for 30 minutes or until fruit is tender and
topping is golden.
Nutrition Information per serving - 210 calories, 6 g fat, o mg
cholesterol,75 mg sodium, 39 g carbohydrate, 4 g fiber.
(4 servings)
Ingredients:
2 acorn squash
1 apple, chopped
1/3 cup raisins
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/3 cup brown sugar, packed
2 Tablespoons soft margarine, melted
Instructions:
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
2. Wash squash. Cut squash in half lengthwise. scrape
out seeds.
3. Place squash halves cut side down on a cookie
sheet or in a baking pan. Bake for 25 minutes.
4. Mix the remaining ingredients.
5. Turn the squash cut side up. Fill squash with apple
mixture. Bake 20 minutes longer or until squash is
soft.
Nutrition Information per serving - Calories 260 ~ fat 6 g ~
calories from fat 50 ~ sodium 70 mg ~ total carbohydrate 55 g ~
fiber 5 g
Our office will be closed November
26 & 27 for the Thanksgiving Holiday.
Watch for Duane Lanchester’s “The Master
Gardener’s Plot” article in the next newsletter!
The articles in this newsletter have been
provided for you by University of Illinois
Extension, Pike County office.
The following have contributed articles to this
newsletter:
Martha Smith
David Robson
Sandra Mason
Bob Frazee
Shirley Camp
Horticulture Educator
Horticulture Educator
Horticulture Educator
Natural Resources Educator
Nutrition & Wellness Educator
Compiled and Designed by Cheryl Westfall, Secretary
If you have any questions or comments regarding the issue of
“Down To Earth”, please contact University of Illinois Extension,
Pike County, at (217) 285-5543.
Jennifer Mowen, County Extension Director
University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign College of
Agricultural, Consumer and Environmental Sciences
United States Department of Agriculture • Local Extension
Councils Cooperating University of Illinois Extension provides
equal opportunities in programs and employment.