Biotechnology and Beauty
Prof Madya Dr Fadzilah Adibah Hj Abdul Majid
Jabatan Kejuruteraan Bioproses, FKKKSA, UTM
FAAM copyright 2007
What make us beautiful?
• Beautiful features/
appearance (face,
physique)
• Healthy
• Wealthy
• Beautiful inner soul
• Live in clean/safe
environment
• Financially free
• No envy, no enemy
FAAM copyright 2007
Faktor yang Menyumbang kepada
Kecantikan Seseorang
• Bahan kosmetik
– Penceriaan kulit
wajah
– Penjagaan kulit
• Makanan
– Makanan jasad
– Makanan roh
• Cara hidup
FAAM copyright 2007
Fungsi Bahan Kosmetik
FAAM copyright 2007
Make Up Products
(Tujuan: lebih ceria, cantik, segar, imej …)
• Eye liner, eye shadow, lipsticks,
lip gloss, foundation, compact
powder etc
FAAM copyright 2007
KANDUNGAN KOSMETIK
• Bahan aktif
– Antibiotik, antifungi, pemutih, antioksidan,
vitamin
• Bahan asas/pembawa (base/vehicle)
– Asas lemak, air, larutan akuas, serbuk tepung
(kanji)
• Bahan tambahan
– Pewangi, pewarna, pengawet
FAAM copyright 2007
Sumber Bahan ASAS Kosmetik
• Haiwan (halal atau haram)
– Linolin, wool alcohols, spermaceti
• Tumbuhan (dijamin halal)
– Minyak tumbuhan (kelapa, coco butter,
minyak zaitun, jagung, soya dll)
• Minyak mentah (halal, baik atau tidak
kepada kulit?)
– Liquid paraffin, petroleum jelly, petrolatum,
wax, mineral oil
FAAM copyright 2007
Sumber Bahan AKTIF Kosmetik
• Bahan berasaskan haiwan
– Protein, asid amino, nukleik acid,
hyaluronic acid, ekstrak uri, cecair
amniotik, ceramid
• Bahan berasaskan tumbuhan
– Minyak aroma, polysterols, gamma linoleik,
– AHA
• Vitamin
– Vitamin C, vitamin E, beta kerotene
• Bahan makanan
– Susu, telur, madu dll
FAAM copyright 2007
Bahan TAMBAHAN dalam
kosmetik
• Pengawet
– Benzoic acid, benzyl alcohol
– Formaldehyde, imidazolidinyl urea,
parabens, quaternium 15
• Wangian
– Essential oil, aromatic oil (natural or
synthetic)
• Pewarna
– Natural or synthetic
FAAM copyright 2007
Ingredients in make ups
Base/basic
Active
FAAM copyright 2007
Additional
Skincare (facial) Products
•
•
•
•
•
Cleanser wash/lotion
scrub
Toner
Serum
Moisturiser
– Day cream
– Night cream
FAAM copyright 2007
Ingredients for Skincare Products
Base/basic
Active
FAAM copyright 2007
Additional
Skincare (body) products
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Body shampoo
Soap
Body lotion
Hair shampoo/conditioner
Hair cream/gel
Mousse
etc
FAAM copyright 2007
Ingredients for Skincare (body)
Products
Base/basic
Active
FAAM copyright 2007
Additional
Cosmeceuticals
•
•
•
Cosmeceuticals (or alternatively, cosmaceuticals) are topical
cosmetic-pharmaceutical hybrids intended to enhance the
health and beauty of skin.
Cosmeceutical agents are:
–
Retinoic acid
–
Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA)
–
Beta-hydroxy acids (BHA)
–
Hydroquinone
–
Vitamin E
–
Vitamin C
–
Kinetin (hormone growth factor)
–
Grape seed extract
–
Coenzyme Q10
Many Malaysian herbs have cosmeceutical value/effects
FAAM copyright 2007
Products from Biotechnology for
beauty industry (skincares range)
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Lactic Acids
Fruit acids (AHA and BHA)
Kojic acids
Glycolic acids
Ceramides
Sphingolipids
Lyposomes
FAAM copyright 2007
HYDROXY ACIDS
(Fruit acids loosen the "glue" between dead
skin cells, and the cells fall away, leaving your
face very smooth and soft)
• Malic acid
– (apples, vinegar, applesauce, cider)
• lactic acid
– (buttermilk, yogurt, powdered skim milk, sour cream,
blackberries, tomatoes);
• tartaric acid
– (grapes, grape juice, wine, cream of tartar);
• citric acid
– (citrus fruits such as lemons, limes, grapefruit, and
orange);
• glycolic acid
– (sugar cane).
FAAM copyright 2007
Lactic Acid Peel
Pure Ingredients: Deionized Water, Lactic Acid (FCC/USP),
Glycerin, Witch Hazel, Sodium Hydroxide, Hydroxyethyl Cellulose,
Sodium Citrate.
• Lactic Acid is derived from sour milk
• Witch Hazel extract is derived from natural
sources.
• Witch Hazel is an astringent with the
following properties:
• Reduces the Skin's Pore Size
• Prevents Irritation and Inflammation
• Soothes and Calms the skin
FAAM copyright 2007
DuPont™ Glycolic Acid
•
Glycolic Acid (hydroxyacetic acid) is
the first member of the series of alphahydroxy carboxylic acids, which means
it is one of the smallest organic
molecules with both acid and alcohol
functionality. Although Glycolic
Acid occurs naturally as a
trace component in sugarcane,
beets, grapes and fruits, DuPont
synthesizes the product through
a purpose built manufacturing process
in Belle, West Virginia. DuPont has
been the leading supplier of Glycolic
Acid to customers and distributors
worldwide for more than 50 years.
FAAM copyright 2007
DuPont™ Glycolic Acid is among the most popular
actives in anti-aging formulations. Clinical data
supports effectiveness in cell exfoliation products,
skin peeling products, anti-aging creams, wrinkle
reduction creams, moisturizing skin creams and
lotions, acne treatments, skin lighteners, and
combinations with sunscreens.
Products formulated with DuPont™ Glypure® L
improve the appearance of sun damaged skin and
fight skin aging. They improve elasticity and
firmness, increase the production of dermal
matrix compounds and collagen synthesis, and
reduce the appearance of lines and wrinkles. The
result is improved skin texture: smoother,
brighter, more supple, with less pigmentation and
fewer irregularities.
Only Glypure® L permits the use of anti-aging
claims when formulating with Glycolic
Acid. Licensing agreements with NeoStrata
permit DuPont customers to make claims
consistent with NeoStrata patents.
FAAM copyright 2007
The Natural Power of Vitamin C
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Benefits using Vitamin C Serum
Minimizes fine lines and wrinkles
Helps reverse the signs of aging
Repairs and Protects your skin from Free Radicals
Increases Skin Elasticity
Helps Skin Clarity [acne and age spots]
Evens skin tone and texture
Prevents Scarring
Perfect for mature skin, as well as all skin types
FAAM copyright 2007
Vitamin C Serum (25%)
Natural Ingredients:
• Food Grade Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic
Acid): a powerful antioxidant that
helps skin repair damage from the
elements.
• Aloe Vera: Soothes, heals, softens
and hydrates the skin.
• Witch Hazel: Gentle astringent, and
pore minimizer.
• Urea: Disinfects and hydrates.
• Sodium Sulfite: Protects the Food
Grade Vitamin C.
FAAM copyright 2007
Skin Peelings Pyramid
Fast, Strongerdamage skin
Lactic acid
Glycolic acid
TCA
(tricloroacetic acid)
Jessner Peel
(lactic acid, salicylic acid, alcohol, resorcinol
+hydroquinone or kojic acid)
Obagi (blue) Peel
(TCA+blue colour)
Phenol Peel
(chemical-carbolic acid)
FAAM copyright 2007
Ceramides
•
•
•
Ceramides From Sheeps Wool Similar To Those Of The Human
Skin
Science Daily — The high concentration of ceramides extracted by
means of supercritical fluid technology has provoked great interest in
the pharmaceutical and cosmetics industries. Due to their composition,
these ceramides increase the hydration of the skin and accelerate the
repair of damaged skin tissue.
Ceramides that repair skin tissue
The ceramides present in wool, however, are very similar in
composition to those found on the corneal layer of human skin tissue.
This, fundamentally proteinaceous, natural fibre has an external lipid
content – known as lanolin - already used in cosmetics – and an internal
lipid content of great value due to its high concentration of ceramides.
FAAM copyright 2007
•
•
•
•
also called, Adeps Lanae, wool wax, wool fat,
or wool grease, a greasy yellow substance
from wool-bearing animals, acts as a skin
ointment, water-proofing wax, and raw
material (such as in shoe polish).
Medical grade lanolin is used as a cream to
soothe skin. Lansinoh cream, a product that
some breastfeeding mothers use on sore and
cracked nipples, is pure, hypoallergenic,
bacteriostatic medical grade lanolin. This grade
of lanolin can also be used to treat chapped
lips, diaper rash, dry skin, itchy skin, rough
feet, minor cuts, minor burns and skin
abrasions. As an ointment basis, it readily
absorbs through skin, facilitating absorption of
the medicinal chemicals it carries.
Lanolin is often used as a raw material for
producing vitamin D3.
The name Lanolin comes from a trademark
that became known as the generic term for a
preparation of sheep fat and water. Jaffe v.
Evans & Sons, Ltd., Supreme Court, Appellate
Division, First Department, New York (March
FAAM copyright 2007
21, 1902).
Lanolin
White Musk
FAAM copyright 2007
Glycerin
•Glycerin is used in many consumer
products such as personal care
preparations, cosmetics,
pharmaceuticals and foods because of its
contribution to product properties, stability
and compatibility with a wide variety of
chemicals, and relative non-toxicity.
A water clear, odorless, viscous liquid with a sweet taste, glycerin is
derived from both natural and petrochemical feedstocks.
•
•
It occurs in combined form (triglycerides) in all animal fats and vegetable oils and
constitutes, on average, about 10 percent of these materials. Glycerin is obtained
from fats and oils during soap and fatty acid production and by transesterification
(an interchange of fatty acid groups with another alcohol).
Most of the glycerin marketed today is manufactured to meet the stringent
requirements of the United States Pharmacopeia (USP) and the Food Chemicals
Codex (FCC). However, technical grades of glycerin that are not certified as USP
FAAM copyright 2007
or FCC are available.
Lactic Acid
makingHistory of
Biotechnology
FAAM copyright 2007
Kojic AcidHistory of
Biotechnology
FAAM copyright 2007
What we have in our…
Traditionally made Bedak Sejuk?
Traditional scrub of kulit rambai?
Beluru?
FAAM copyright 2007
Physical Sun Shades
• Staying out of the sun
• Use sunscreen " physical" sunscreen that blocks in the
sun’s ray
– eyewear (both regular glasses and sunglasses) be coated to
screen for UV.
• Chemical Sunscreens are "zinc oxide" or "titanium
dioxide"
• Use a sun protection factor (SPF) of 15 or higher, and
one which blocks both UVA and UVB rays - a broad
spectrum sunscreen.
• THE FORMULATION OF COSMECEUTICALS MUST
BE BASED ON COMBINATION OF SAFE CHEMICALS
AND ACTIVE INGREDIENTS TO ENSURE THE TOTAL
HEALTH OF THE SKIN AND BODY.
FAAM copyright 2007
Fungsi Makanan
• Tumbesaran
• Kesihatan
– Penjagaan kecantikan
dari dalam
• Kecerdasan mental
• Kekuatan fizikal
FAAM copyright 2007
Enam Organ yang Menjaga
Kulit Supaya Sentiasa Sihat
• Hati
• Ginjal
• Kelenjar adrenal
• Kelenjar tirod
• Usus kecil
• Usus besar
Kita dipertanggungjawabkan untuk menjaga dan membersihkan
organ ini supaya sentiasa bersih dan berfungsi dengan baik.
Kulit akan menjadi sihat dan cantik jika organ-organ ini dijaga
dengan rapi sepanjang masa.
FAAM copyright 2007
Organ Penting dalam
Penjagaan Kulit
HATI
USUS KECIL
USUS BESAR
FAAM copyright 2007
Ginjal/Buah Pinggang
Ginjal/
Buah Pinggang
FAAM copyright 2007
KELENJAR TIROID
KELENJAR ADRENAL
FAAM copyright 2007
Hati dan Ginjal
• Organ penapis-menjalankan servis
penapisan/pembersihan berterusan (24 jam)
• Toksik dalam badan menyebabkan organ ini
bekerja lebih masa dengan ganjaran tak
setimpal
• Lindungi organ ini dan berilah bayaran
secukupnya (kurangkan pengambilan bahan
toksik)
• JIKA ORGAN INI SIHAT-Æ KULIT AKAN
CANTIK
FAAM copyright 2007
Kelenjar Adrenal
• Kilang penghasilan hormon-hormon
(pregnelone, DHEA, estrogen,
progesterone dan testosterone)
• Hormon yang banyak dan sihat adalah
bahan asas untuk menjadikan kulit
cantik dan bertenaga
FAAM copyright 2007
Kelenjar Tiroid
• Kelenjar pengeluar hormon dan
penghasilan tenaga.
• Berfungsi dengan cemerlang dalam
keadaan bersih dan sihat
• Kulit kering, bersisik dan kurang
bermaya menandakan KelenjarTiroid
lemah dan tidak berfungsi dengan baik.
FAAM copyright 2007
Usus Besar dan Usus Kecil
• Mencorak kesihatan organ hati, ginjal,
kelenjar tiroid dan adrenal dan lain-lain organ
• Pembekal bahan makanan dan menyahkan
bahan kumuh dari badan
• Jika bahan kumuh tersekat dalam saluran ini
kulit akan menebal, berminyak dan berjeragat
• Jika usus bersih dan sihat kulit akan sihat
dan bercahaya, tanpa bintik hitam.
FAAM copyright 2007
Bahan Perosak Kecantikan
Kulit
• Dadah, ubatan sintetik, arak, bahan kimia,
logam berat (raksa, plumbum).
• Kerosakan hati disebabkan oleh:
– Minyak bersari mengandungi trans-fatty acids
– Garam tanpa kandungan mineral
• Kerosakan ginjal:
– Susu pasteur dan dihomogen, boleh
menyebabkan ginjal tersumbat
Elakkan makanan sebegini dan perlu menambah
makanan yang dapat mengelokkan enam organ
penting ini untuk kulit yang cantik dan berseri.
FAAM copyright 2007
Fikirkan Hijau
• Sayuran hijau sangat baik untuk
membersihkan dan membaiki kerosakan hati.
• Sayuran hijau berupaya menyahkan bahan
toksik dalam badan
• Clorella, bayam, brokoli dan lain-lain
• Penyediaan makanan: mentah dan masak,
jus dan peram.
FAAM copyright 2007
Makanan Pemberi Khasiat kepada
Kesihatan Badan dan Kecantikan Kulit
• Pilih makanan hijau disediakan secara
organik/probiotik
• Pilih Minuman bermineral dan nyah kuman
• Pilih makanan yang diformulasi untuk
menjaga kesihatan usus (probiotik)
• Makanan hijau organik sesuai diambil waktu
pagi bagi mengalkalikan darah dan memberi
bekalan protein, mineral dan lemak kepada
badan.
FAAM copyright 2007
Makanan Untuk Kesihatan Kulit
• Amalan pemakanan wajib setiap hari untuk
menjaga kesihatan dan kecantikan kulit:
– Minyak dan lemak mentah (raw) dan dara (virgin)
– Minyak kelapa dara sangat baik untuk kelenjar
tiroid
– Tumbuhan bermineral tinggi (tumbuhan dan
hidupan dari laut)
– Tumbuhan hijau dan makanan berantioksida
tinggi
(ULAM-ULAMAN SPT PEGAGA, SELOM, ULAM
RAJA, PUCUK GAJUS, PETAI, TENGGEK
BURUNG DLL)
FAAM copyright 2007
Khasiat
Sayur-Sayuran
Sayur-sayuran dan ulam-ulaman mengandungi banyak serat
(fiber) dan kurang kalori. Ia adalah kaya dengan sumber utama
vitamin C, vitamin A, asid folix dan zat galian yang sangat
diperlukan untuk pertumbuhan dan penjagaan tubuh badan
serta minda yang sihat. Khasiat yang terdapat dalam sayursayuran dan ulam-ulaman ini dapat menyelenggara tisu-tisu
kulit, mata, tulang dan otak.
FAAM copyright 2007
Ulam-Ulaman
Ulam merupakan gelaran
kepada tumbuhan yang
dimakan secara mentah atau
sekadar dicelur (direndam
sekejap dalam air panas)
sebelum dimakan bersama
nasi. Ulam juga biasanya
dimakan bersama dengan
perasa seperti budu, cencaluk,
atau sambal belacan, sebelum
dimakan bersama nasi.
FAAM copyright 2007
Promosi Makanan Fermentasi
untuk Kulit Yang Cantik
• Artikel dalam Natural Health Magazine
(April 2004, p.35)
• Yogurt, keju, Tempeh,
• Budu?, Belacan?, Ikan jeruk?,
• Cuka asli (organik)
FAAM copyright 2007
Apa ada dalam Budu?
•vitamin yang terdapat pada budu:
–vitamin larut air (vitamin B kompleks vitamin B1 (thiamin), vitamin B2 (riboflavin),
asid pantotenat, asid niasin, vitamin B6 dan
vitamin B12 (sianokobalamin). ) dan vitamin
larut lemak (vitamin A, D, E dan K).
•protein yang tinggi
•
•
•
mineral makro dan mikro
– Jumlah mineral zat besi, kalsium dan magnesium adalah sebanyak 9, 39,
2, 87 dan 8.05 mg bagi setiap 100 gram budu.
– antioksidan - isoflavon.
isoflavon juga merupakan antioksidan yang sangat diperlukan oleh tubuh
untuk menghentikan reaksi pembentukan radikal bebas.
antioksidan faktor 11 (6, 7, 4 trihidroksi isoflavon) yang mempunyai sifat
antioksidan paling kuat dibandingkan isoflavon dalam ikan-ikan lain.
FAAM copyright 2007
Fungsi Rempah Ratus/Herba
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Aroma
Perisa
Antioksidan
Antimikrobil
Antiviral
Antifungus
Melancarkan
perjalanan darah
• dll
FAAM copyright 2007
PLANTS EXHIBIT ANTIDIABETIC
ACTIVITY
World ethno botanical information reports almost
800 plants used in diabetes mellitus
The most widely used of plants:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Banaba (Lagerstroemia speciosa)
Bitter melon (Momordica charantia)
Chinese ginseng (Panax ginseng)
Cashew leaves (Anacardium
occidentale)
Cinnamon (Cinnamomum sp)
Cloves (Syzygium aromaticum)
Fenugreek (Trigonella foenumgraecum)
Gymnema (Gymnema sylvestre)
Guduchi (Tinospora cordifolia)
Pomegranate (Punica granatum
FAAM copyright 2007
CINNAMOMUM ZEYLANICUM
FAAM copyright 2007
T-unit
5
OH
8
7
1
8a
A
6
5
B
O
• C45H36O18
• mp. 206-207 oC
OH
3
C
4a
OH
4
6
OH
2
2
O
3
5
H
OH
4
OH
3
7
2
OH
8
D
HO
2
5
O
2
OH
8
E
7
OH
OH
4
G
B-unit
5
OH
OH
5
3
I
F
4
3
M-unit
2
O
OH
6
Structure of bioactive compound (Cinnamtannin B1)
FAAM copyright 2007
Untreated (preadipocytes)
Control: Ins/IBMX/Dex
No Lipid accumulation
Lipid accumulation
CB1/IBMX/Dex
Water extract/IBMX/Dex
Lipid accumulation
Oil red O staining for mature
13 days after inducing
FAAM adipocytes,
copyright 2007
Proper Nutrition is Essential
• Proper nutrition is essential for healthy,
youthful skin.
• fruits and vegetables should be consumed as
often as possible - at least five servings per day
• body requires essential fatty acids and fatsoluble vitamins for proper nutrition and
functioning.
• Skin problems are often a sign of vitamin
deficiency
FAAM copyright 2007
Buah-buahan dan sayuran
FAAM copyright 2007
Neutraceuticals
• Many neutraceuticals are available as food
supplements.
• These products are recommended to people
with unbalance nutritions due to many factors
such as lifestyle, no appetite to certain type of
foods etc
• Formulated using fresh fruits, vegetables, fruit
enzymes, minerals, plant fibres, herbs etc
FAAM copyright 2007
Pineapple enzyme: Bromelain
Pineapple core
Blend
Homogenization
(3x100 bar)
Centrifugation
(10000 g, 5 min)
Ultrafiltration
Precipitation
(60 % ammonium
sulfate) (overnight)
Dissolved in 0.02 M
acetate buffer
Freeze
Dried
Cosmeceuticals/
Nutraceuticals/
Food products
Drink Plenty of Water
• Water is required by the body to hydrate and
replenish cells.
• The body's water component is approximately 6070%.
• It uses water to transport nutrients around the body
and for dissolving and eliminating toxins.
• Aim to consume 1-2 litres of either bottled or
filtered water per day,
• to assist in achieving a smooth glowing
appearance.
FAAM copyright 2007
Today’s Food Products
•
•
•
•
•
Confectionaries
Pastries
Fast foods
Cakes
Junk foods
FAAM copyright 2007
Ingredients in Modern Foods
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Gelatine
Emulsifiers
Non dairy creamers
Additives
Preservatives
Flavours
Flavour enhancers
Colourings
Enzymes
FAAM copyright 2007
Gelatin (E-441)
[ JEHL-uh-tihn ]
• An odorless, tasteless and colorless thickening agent, which
when dissolved in hot water and then cooled, forms a jelly. It's
useful for many purposes such as jelling molded desserts and
salads, thickening cold soups and glazing CHAUD-FROID
preparations. Gelatin is pure protein derived from beef and veal
bones, cartilage, tendons and other tissue. Much of the
commercial gelatin today is a by-product of pig skin.
• Their only alternative was to use either the hard-to-obtain
ISINGLASS (gelatin from fish air bladders) or carrageen (see
carrageen; carragheen ). (a dried seaweed product).
FAAM copyright 2007
emulsifier
[ eh-MUHL-suh-fi-er ]
• Generally, any ingredient used to BIND together normally
noncombinative substances, such as oil and water.
– Lecithin
- natural emulsifier in egg yolks (E-322)
- Phospholipid in oil
– Xanthan gum
• from bacteria; Xanthomonas cempestris
• EU number (E-415)
– Guar gum
• (gummy substance from legume-plant)
• EU number (E-412)
– Arabic gum
• (clearless, odourless, tasteless additive from acacia tree)
• E-number (E-414)FAAM copyright 2007
Xanthan Gum
• is a natural gum polysaccharide used as a food
additive and rheology modifier. It is produced by a
biotechnological process involving fermentation
of glucose or sucrose by the Xanthomonas
campestris bacterium. It was discovered by an
extensive research effort by the United States
Department of Agriculture, which involved the
screening of a large number of biopolymers for
their potential uses.
FAAM copyright 2007
agar; agar-agar
[ AH-gahr; AYgahr ]
• Also called kanten and Japanese gelatin, this tasteless
dried seaweed acts as a setting agent and is widely
used in Asia. It is marketed in the form of blocks,
powder or strands and is available at Asian markets
and health-food stores. Agar can be substituted for
gelatin but has stronger setting properties so less of it
is required.
FAAM copyright 2007
What is in your milk?
A selected list of hormones, growth
factors and other substances found
in an 8-ounce glass of milk.
Calcium
-300 Milligrams
IGF-1
-18 micrograms
Testosterone
-6 nanograms
Estradiol
- 330 picograms
The hypothesis:
Hormones and
growth factors in
dairy increase
cancer risk.
By Ivan Oransky
FAAM copyright 2007
FAAM copyright 2007