Proceedings of 8th Annual London Business Research Conference Imperial College, London, UK, 8 - 9 July, 2013, ISBN: 978-1-922069-28-3 Staff Only: A Study of Organisational Voice in the Kitchen Ricky, Yuk-kwan Ng* This paper attempts to give attention to the concepts of the on stage front/back stage languages and applied them to the context of organisational studies. It has considered how the voices of organisations can contribute to an understanding of the team dynamic in the kitchen. This study reveals long working hours, low paid and the lack of personal life are the perpetual truth of working in the kitchen while the implementation of a hierarchy solely depends on the restaurant‟s management. Kitchens are gradually opened up as a “glass palace” for the customers as showcases to cope with their business strategies. The code of practice of working in an open kitchen indicates that the voices being showed to the customers and in actual uses are always segregated; it is schizophrenic and chaotic. This study also finds that the voice of authority hinders communication; it is regarded as orders instead of two-way communications and will create uncertainty. Last but not least, it is also realised that the self-regulated magic system to generate team dynamic is of significance because most of the outsiders strongly believe that chefs are team players. 1. Introduction Day in and day out, while we are enjoying our „bon appetite‟ meals in the restaurants, rarely that we will pay attention to what is happening inside the kitchens. In many work organisations, the familiar distinction between front and back stage (Goffman, 1959) is readily apparent and yet it is often the case that access to the workplace is only gained via visual or textual media, that is, access to actual locations is frequently prohibited (Kociatkiewicz and Kostera, 1999; Slemmons, 2005). Although we may have seen the real life kitchen from various documentary or drama television programmes such as Kitchen from Hell or Jamie Oliver‟s Television Series on BBC, these kinds of performed realities and „déjà vu‟ are considered as clichés and may not able to unveil the behind the scene realities. To many people, the concept of working in a kitchen may associate with the underpaid job in the sweat shop, the relentless regimentation of the factory, or the rigid bureaucratic organisational life. Most of the people regard the work conditions and activities in the kitchen as the dark side of restaurants. Indeed in some restaurants, the details of the activities in the kitchen are intended to be hidden from the customers. Chances for a glimpse of what is going in the kitchen are slim. The saying of no matter how nice a restaurant is, do not ever look into the kitchen seems to be a perpetual truth. Like many other servicing industries, restaurants are operating both at the stage front (the dining area) and back stage (the kitchen). So, they project organisational images, at the stage-front, the best services are given to the customers while the work environments and activities that make up the backstage reality are deliberately segregated and are normally visible only to the employees. ________________________________________ * Dr. Ricky, Yuk-kwan Ng, Centre for Learning and Teaching, Vocational Training Council, Hong Kong. Email:rickyng@vtc.edu.hk Proceedings of 8th Annual London Business Research Conference Imperial College, London, UK, 8 - 9 July, 2013, ISBN: 978-1-922069-28-3 2. Literature Review Staff Only Interestingly, the „staff only‟ sign on the kitchen door indicates that it is not just the recipes are the best-kept secret but the work activities are also strictly confidential to outsiders. In addition, the kitchen in a restaurant is notoriously known as a male dominated arena filled with rough behaviours and coarse languages. Anthony Bourdain, one of the most famous chefs in the world, describes the kitchen as a “mad house” with distinctive subculture of “centuries-old militaristic hierarchy” and garnished with “a mix of unwavering orders and nerve-shattering chaos” (Bourdain, 2001, p.3). Bourdain‟s assertions may be overly exaggerated, but reviews from literature suggest that the notorious tradition and the mechanism of kitchen still lingers. Arbend‟s ethnographic study on el Bulli, the world‟s best restaurant in Spain, reveals that its maverick chef, Ferran Adria, manages his kitchen in a rigorous and highly disciplined army type of operation. Despite the fact that Ferran has a subliminal goal to revolutionize the restaurant business, he operates his kitchen as if it was a machine, with everybody and everything in the right places all working towards a common goal to achieve his so called „mise-en-place‟ concept. It should be an amazing show to the customers because el Bulli adopts an open kitchen plan and the work activities of his employees are presented behind the glass wall. Tour to the kitchen is also available. El Bulli‟s kitchen best demonstrates Gabriel‟s concept of the „glass cage‟ and „glass palace‟: Employees are exposed to their customers, their work colleagues and the mangers for multi-dimensional surveillance (Gabriel, 2005). Employees now working in kitchens are permit to be seen through the glass wall, their activities at work are all unveiled while working long hours under intensive labour and surveillance pressure. In a similar way to theatre of alienation makes transparent the fact that the audiences are spectators of the work of actors, so work in restaurants‟ open kitchens are moving in a similar direction to impress customers. However, there are consequences to such acts. Atmosphere is tense; exchanges of causal talks are forbidden in the kitchen; the only communications are the hierarchical orders given by the chefs and the responses must be heard from their subordinates. The calls and responses are short and direct, loud and rapid with no extra room and time to contemplate. The Spanish words “Quemo” with its literally meaning „I burn‟ (but can be applied to a variety of situations in the kitchen) and “Oido” („heard it‟, „got it‟) are the most frequent exchanged codes and utterances. According to Arbend, those are the sounds of a well-run kitchen, the hums of a machine as called by el Bulli‟s chef Eduard (Arben, 2011). Unlike stressing the use of various approaches to convey clear messages to employees to reduce uncertainty and equivocation through the use of rich, intermediate and lean media for communication in most organisations (Daft and Lengel, 1986), the direct calls and responses in el Bulli‟s kitchen make a perfect opposite example. In this case, the most-simple approach is adopted: the military style short and direct commands to avoid miscommunications. Organisational Voices It is not surprisingly to see different styles of languages are being used in restaurants. Language in the dining room is rhetoric, polite and answers are in Proceedings of 8th Annual London Business Research Conference Imperial College, London, UK, 8 - 9 July, 2013, ISBN: 978-1-922069-28-3 discreet details. On the contrary, language inside the kitchen is blunt, harsh and coarse. Second opinions during work are not acceptable and very often, there is only one man commanding. Addressing the voices of organisations, Everett contends that the hierarchy voice is “the voice of authority” and it will jeopardize work relationships (Everett, 2011). Interestingly, the voice of authority finds its appropriateness in the kitchen comfortably. Resemblance to the strict hierarchy structure of an army, the executive chef, like an experienced general, commands, choreographs and synchronizes his chef de cuisine, sous-chefs and their subordinates to finish the cooking tasks. Afifi and Weiner contend that interpersonal communications depending on a range of psychological factors (Afifi and Weiner, 2004). In the kitchen, the commands and orders act as a significant factor of organisational culture for employees to share common values and goals. It is the short, direct and rapid words that energizes the employees and keeps the kitchen boiling. Coarse languages are always heard in the kitchen, even in a Michelin Star restaurant such as el Bulli, for example, “[we] need more ears. That is a sea cucumber? That is a fucking zucchini” (Arbend, 2011, p.11). It is astonishing to know that most employees regard the occasional “F” words (but as told by a chef working in a fine-dining restaurant, it is the most frequent word in a lot of kitchens) as pushers that draws individual attention and motivates the team rather than verbal insults and abuses. What fascinate me are the everyday languages being used in restaurants, in particular, the schizophrenic of voices in the stage front (the dining area) and the back stage (in the kitchen). Is the voice of authority a necessary in the kitchen? How does it feel to work in an environment being constantly harassed and abused by coarse language or rather it is this specific language that drives and generates the team dynamics in the kitchen? Steaming, Cooking and Working Apparently, kitchen is a kind of organisational life that remains mysterious to a lot of people. The late Jazz musician Miles Davis once used the concepts of “steaming”, “cooking” and “working” to name his albums to highlight the spontaneous and harmonious improvisations of his quintet during their gags. In the same vein, it is presumably that there is a magic system, mechanism and voice that keep the kitchen boiling. It is of this curiosity that triggers the thoughts to take a close look into the back stages of restaurants for a better understanding of the kitchen confidential. In sum, this short paper has attempts to give attention to the concepts of the on stage front/back stage languages and applied them to the context of organisational studies. It has considered how the voices of organisations can contribute to an understanding of the team dynamic in the kitchen. The following empirical work which accompanies this paper gives attention to how such language can be used to reveal the work culture in the kitchen. 3. The Methodology and Model The qualitative approach, ethnography and interpretivism With an aim of exploring particular social and cultural phenomena in the restaurant, or more specifically the voices being used in the kitchen, this study adopts a qualitative approach and is set in the interpretive paradigm. The reason of using Proceedings of 8th Annual London Business Research Conference Imperial College, London, UK, 8 - 9 July, 2013, ISBN: 978-1-922069-28-3 qualitative approach for this study is because over the years, the use of qualitative research approach for exploration of social behaviours has been widely advocated and used in social science. It emphasises the importance of understanding the processes through which human beings concretise their relationship to their world (Morgan & Smircich, 1980). The use of a qualitative approach has been regarded as more appropriate for seeking an understanding of particular and specific phenomena (Casebeer and Verhoef, 1997). Using qualitative approach for this study, the researcher collects open-ended, emerging data with the intention of developing themes from the data, and makes knowledge claims based primarily on the multiple meanings of individual experiences. To explore the inside stories in the kitchens, it is important to discover and constitute meanings in the light of experiences of the chefs‟ individual engagements in everyday life and thus to interpret the individual truth and subjective opinions though the lens of his/her own experiences. The method is inductive; insights are generated from the interviews and the ethnographic studies. To enable a detailed look and first-hand experience of the activities in the kitchens, ethnography will be adopted in order to draw behavioural patterns and themes for analysis. Ethnography requires field participation and engagement, using observation, in-depth interviews, documentation by written logs as well as visual media such as photographs and films (with sound recordings) to observe social patterns (Gummensson, 1991), and “to collect and analyse data of a particular phenomenon with as little hypothesizing as possible” (Montiel, 1985, p.49). Ethnography enables the researcher to identify the “essence” of human experiences concerning a phenomenon in a study, and to understand the “lived experiences” by studying a small number of subjects through extensive and prolonged engagement to see patterns and relationships of meaning (Moustakas, 1994 as quoted in Creswell, 2003 p.15). It is hoping that the use of ethnographic studies would able to provide insights for a better understanding of the „staff only‟ activities and interactions in the kitchens. Interpretive research in management and organisation studies has traditionally been closely identified with the understanding of local meanings and the everyday world. Organisational voices and team dynamics in the kitchen are constructed by the employees in terms of their specific social-historical and cultural background and their experience of interactions in the work environment. Organisations and workspaces are well described as communities sharing common societal characteristics that facilitate the interactions of people. Interpretivism proposes that by engaging in the world and interacting with others and the environment, people interpret their individual experiences to construct meanings. It does so by analysing text, languages, common sense knowledge in different areas of daily life as well as the inner world of human consciousness, in order to reveal the reality (Burrell and Morgan, 1979). The goal of the researcher, therefore, is not to capture some preexisting or ready-made world presumed to be available „out there‟, but to understand the process of symbolic “world making” (Schwandt, 1994), through which the social world is on-goingly accomplished. Adopting qualitative and interpretative approach in this study allow an exploratory study by involving the perspectives from those who participate to discover insight and understanding. Proceedings of 8th Annual London Business Research Conference Imperial College, London, UK, 8 - 9 July, 2013, ISBN: 978-1-922069-28-3 The Empirical Work This empirical study adopts a combination of interview and ethnographic field study. Data will be collected from experts: the chefs by face-to-face interviews with a structured questionnaire. Each interview of the participated chef will be selected as an individual case study because of their job distinctiveness and work experiences in the catering industry. A total of four interviews will be conducted. Two chefs will be selected from a Michelin three-star Western cuisine restaurant and two chefs from a renowned Chinese cuisine restaurant in Hong Kong. They will be selected by the use of a number of pre-determined criteria as suggested by Dempster (2008). These include: 1) a number of years of direct work experience in the respective industries; 2) experience at a senior level of management; 3) experience in working as a member in the industry, and working alongside with other specialised workers in restaurant or kitchen; and 4) experience in managing the whole kitchen and the management of the catering production process. For analysis, data collected from the interviews will be transcribed from the audio recordings. They will be sorted then categorised for comparisons to generate themes. Additional ethnographic field studies will be carried out by the researcher in the kitchens of the two restaurants to understand the “lived experiences” through engagement to observe patterns and relationships of meaning. Because of the extended procedures required for special approvals to conduct the interviews and the ethnographic studies, at the time of writing this paper, the researcher was only able to conduct a pilot test in one of the restaurants. A 45minute interview was conducted with a junior chef of a Michelin three-star French restaurant followed by an ethnographic field study to observe the activities in the open kitchen. During the field study, the researcher adopted a naturalistic approach and was participated as a customer, sat in front of the open kitchen for a three-hour meal and took notes of the activities in a non-intervention manner. After the meal, a journal was written based on the notes to write reflections from the first hand field experience for analysis. Case One Junior chef (participant A) of a Michelin three-star French restaurant Participant A is a junior chef in a Michelin three-star French restaurant in Hong Kong; he has been working in this restaurant for a year. Before working in this restaurant, he was working in a few restaurants in Hong Kong‟s grand hotels. Although his experience of working in the industry is only little more than three years, his board experiences of working in different kinds of restaurants provides multiperspectives on the work life in the kitchen. A 45-minute interview was conducted with participant A to draw his views on the organisational voices, work life, work culture, common values and goals and team dynamic in the kitchen. The ethnographic study in the Michelin three-star French restaurant A field study was conducted in the restaurant a week before the interview with participant A, the reason of that was to avoid any bias and preconception that may result from the interview with participant A. This arrangement allowed the Proceedings of 8th Annual London Business Research Conference Imperial College, London, UK, 8 - 9 July, 2013, ISBN: 978-1-922069-28-3 researcher to enter the field with as little of pre-existing concepts as possible in order to observe the „world-making‟ process. The researcher was participated as a customer at a table in front of the open kitchen. The junior chef‟s colleagues were not notified to avoid the Hawthrone effect. The researcher used a naturalistic approach to observe the activities in the kitchen. Notes were taken and a reflective log was written after the field study to categorise the activities and patterns to draw insights. 4. The Findings Findings from the interview with participant A Flat versus bureaucratic management system The concept of working in a kitchen may associate with the underpaid job in the sweat shop, the relentless regimentation of the factory, or the rigid bureaucratic organisational life is partially truth. Participant A agreed that “working in kitchen is always a job with long working hours, low paid and has no personal life, no matter how big a restaurant you are in” but “it is not really factory alike”, because it all depends on what kind of restaurant you are working in. He expressed his view that in some big hotel‟s restaurants, there are strong hierarchies and bureaucracies while in some private restaurants, the rankings are not so obvious, for example, in the three-star French restaurant he is working has a flat hierarchy; the executive chef is the commander and the rest of the staff bear the same rank. He admitted that it is good because “we have chances to get our hands on different tasks and work on the whole food processing process and furthermore, we learn from each other”. He carried on and said “there is a high staff turnover rate because of the high demand resulted from the high standard and of course, the underpaid and long working hours are significant factors that drive people away”. The findings confirm that long working hours, low paid and the lack of personal life are the key factors of working in the kitchen while the rigid hierarchy depends on the restaurant‟s management. A flat management system is adopted in private restaurants and a rigid bureaucratic management system is being implemented in hotel‟s restaurants. Kitchens are showcases Participant A agreed with the saying of “no matter how nice a restaurant is, do not ever look into the kitchen” by saying that “nearly all kitchens are dirty except they are brand new: the floor is always wet, garbage and the leftover from food processing are scattered and there are always smell from food, grease and other leftover”. He also commented that nowadays restaurants are projecting an organisational image. At the stage front, the best services are given to the customers while the work environments and activities that make up the backstage reality are deliberately segregated and are normally visible only to the employees. He said “nowadays, restaurants are similar to show business. Customers always want to take a look into the kitchen to see the cooking process out of curiosity. Kitchens are gradually opened up to customers as showcases. To project a professional image to the customers, in the front, waiters always look smart, have nice glooming and in the kitchen, chefs always wear gloves, make sure that there are no water marks on plates and tableware and the chefs do not touch plates with bare hands, just to name a few”. The above reveals that restaurants and kitchens are being used as Proceedings of 8th Annual London Business Research Conference Imperial College, London, UK, 8 - 9 July, 2013, ISBN: 978-1-922069-28-3 showcases as part of the business strategies. Schizophrenic and segregated voices Participant A agreed that in some restaurants, there are psychological schizophrenic of voices in the stage front (the dining area) and the back stage (in the kitchen), saying that “it happens but not so obvious in the restaurant I am working in. Indeed, most of the kitchens are in stages of chaotic during work; you will hear swear words, yells, shouts and quarrels like communications. Arguments happened because of the individual working styles: Different people have their own work systems and their own work stations. The perceptions of the old and new staff also raise arguments and the heat in the kitchen”. This comment shows that no matter how eager restaurants trying to furnish themselves with a professional image, the voices that are being showed to the customers and in actual uses are always segregated, it is full of schizophrenic and chaotic voices. Code of practice to work in a „glass cage‟ Responding to the question whether the open kitchen is the „glass cage‟ and „glass palace‟ that employees are exposed to their customers, their work colleagues and the mangers for multi-dimensional surveillance, participant A assets that “An open kitchen generates more pressure. We have to beware of what we do, for example, to avoid inappropriate gestures and behaviours”. There is also a code of practice in an open kitchen, “we have to clean the drops of sauce using napkins instead of hands, even though it is better to do it using cleaned bare hands to show the customers that we are hygienic in handling food. Before we cook a new dish, we need to clean up our stations in the sake of showing to the customers even though it is not necessary. The concept of showing the customers a clean and tidy workplace is important, even only for one minute”. Interestingly, he said that working in an open kitchen, “stronger pressure is from the manager rather than the colleagues and there is not that much pressure from the customers but after all, working in an open kitchen needs a higher emotional quotient (EQ)”. The responses indicated that although working in the „glass cage‟ and „glass palace‟, work pressure is mainly from manager and the code of practice rather than the customers. Short commands and orders create uncertainty Regarding the gender issue, the rough behaviours and “the voice of authority” approaches to convey clear messages to employees to reduce uncertainty for communication. Participant A admits that nowadays, there are more women working in the kitchen but the gender issue still exists, especially in the Chinese culture. “Women usually have privileges, for example, they are exempted from lifting heavy stuff and they can leave earlier or have more tolerances from the chefs, so they do not have to suffer from the overly rough behaviours and languages from the male co-workers”. Of course, voices of authority and coarse language exist, “the orders and commands are essential in the kitchen culture. They generate passion, power and they are dynamic and also a means for ventilation of grieving”. He further says that “commands from the chefs are non-negotiable orders: Do it or you will die”, he continued “but somehow these simple commands are not really clear messages, instead they create uncertainty because people dare not to ask. They are fine for simple tasks but not for complicated tasks” and he believes that “it is better to give detailed orders, for example, one chef told my colleague to boil the lobster for three Proceedings of 8th Annual London Business Research Conference Imperial College, London, UK, 8 - 9 July, 2013, ISBN: 978-1-922069-28-3 minutes but didn‟t explain to him that he needs to think about the size and whether the water are boiled before putting in the lobster or the other way round. Very often, short and simple commands and orders are given because of the rush and time”. In participant A‟s view, he considers the voice of authority hinders communication; he considers them as orders instead of two-way communications. He cites an interesting example to illustrate one of the functions of this kind of order is to get the dish out timely, he says “do you know that we work faster than the MacDonald‟s? We have to get a dish out in one minute”. It seems the simple “do it or die” command in turn created uncertainty for communication and one should regard them as task-oriented orders to get the job done in a timely manner but as participant A comments “if the orders and commands go to an extreme, it will generate a negative effect that reduces confidence”. The magic system: self-regulating Asking whether there is a magic system that contributes to the team dynamic in the kitchen, astonishingly, participant A responds that “to outsiders, a kitchen seems to be working as a team but actually it is not because there are so many parties and people tend to work on their own task. The magic system should be the selfregulated system; one needs to be smart to work in the kitchen, to find out one‟s particular surviving mode”. He considers that the ideal magic system would be “a good management system that plans the work process well with the necessities such as staff familarisation and training; however, in most of the kitchens, it does not exist because chefs normally do not have management backgrounds. There are no briefing sessions before the day of work and as I said before, people go selfregulated, both physical and psychological”. He continues to say that “sadly, nowadays, the common goal and values are to maintain the stars of the restaurant. Team dynamic should come from the leadership of the executive chef and colleagues and instead of the salary and the fame of working in a Michelin Star restaurant”. To end the interview, he asks whether the researcher has ever heard that the phrase “„I love cooking‟ but it has become a self-sarcastic joke in kitchens because people only work for money and fame instead of having a passion to food”. Surprisingly, without saying that there is no team dynamic in the kitchen, the above reveals that there is not magic system that contributes to the team; people are selfregulated to search for their particular surviving modes. The ideal magic system to generate team dynamic in the kitchen would be “a good management system” instead of the endeavour to maintain the stars of the restaurant. Findings from the ethnographical study An ethnographic field study in the Michelin three-star French restaurant A few noteworthy points were observed during the field study and they are: Restaurant as show business It is observed that the restaurant tried very best to entertain the customers and give them an exception dining experience. The experience is both visual and taste: from the state-of-the-art interior design of the restaurant, to the deliberately placed dinning-tables facing the open kitchen and the too orderly set-up work stations and the showing of expansive equipment in the kitchen reveal that the open kitchen, Proceedings of 8th Annual London Business Research Conference Imperial College, London, UK, 8 - 9 July, 2013, ISBN: 978-1-922069-28-3 together with the fame of Michelin stars chef constitutes the concept of the restaurant as show business. The waiters in the restaurant, the chef and his subordinates in the kitchen are well-groomed and they reminded me of the overly beautified scenes in films. They were doing their jobs as if they were acting on film set. As seen, everything is choreographed and demonstrated to customers; a clean cut on the Kobe beef, an artistic drop of the sauce on the plate, a painstakingly shaped chocolate cake are just a few examples that observed. Without a doubt and triangulated with the responses from the interview, restaurants are now in show business and kitchens are being used as showcases as part of the business strategies. Code of practice and team dynamic in action During the meal, it is observed that that people working in an open kitchen acted polite and gentle; talks were sparse, and no rough behaviours and coarse languages were seen and heard. People in the kitchen were concentrated on their own tasks and there was a sense of team dynamic and people were working towards a common goal: to provide timely services without scarifying the quality and the elements to please the customers. This observation once again coincides with the findings from the interview that code of practice is in force in the open kitchen because of the „glass palace‟ effect. In contradict to participant A‟s responses, team dynamic did exist as observed. It was rather a subconscious work attitude than a deliberated act. 5. Summary and Conclusions Although limited by the samples of participants and the single field visit, this pilot study reveals the front stage and back stage organisational culture and behaviours in restaurants. Long working hours, low paid and the lack of personal life are the perpetual truth of working in the kitchen while the implementation of a hierarchy solely depends on the restaurant‟s management. Restaurants are trying to get away from the notorious notion of “no matter how nice a restaurant is, do not ever look into the kitchen”. Kitchens are gradually opened up as a “glass palace” for the customers as showcases to cope with their business strategies. However, the coarse languages, rough behaviours are unavoidable but they are tuned down to follow the code of practice of working in an open kitchen. It indicates that the voices being showed to the customers and in actual uses are always segregated; it is schizophrenic and chaotic. This study also finds that the voice of authority hinders communication; it is regarded as orders instead of two-way communications. The simple orders and commands will create uncertainty and generate negative effect that reduces confidence. It is also realised that the self-regulated magic system to generate team dynamic is of significance because most of the outsiders strongly believe that chefs are team players and there must be team dynamic in the kitchen. It is hoping that making references to the preliminary findings of the pilot study, the on-going in-depth study will enable a better understanding of the organisational voice and work culture in the kitchen. Proceedings of 8th Annual London Business Research Conference Imperial College, London, UK, 8 - 9 July, 2013, ISBN: 978-1-922069-28-3 References Afifi, Walid A. and Weiner, Judith L. 2004, „Toward a Theory of Motivated Information Management. Communication Theory, vol. 14, No. 2, May, 2004, pp.167-190. Anderson, Donald. 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