Home Economics Fashion and Textile Technology Consumer Studies [HIGHER] Ruth Ross abc Acknowledgement Learning and Teaching Scotland gratefully acknowledge this contribution to the National Qualifications support programme for Home Economics. First published 2005 © Learning and Teaching Scotland 2005 This publication may be reproduced in whole or in part for educational purposes by educational establishments in Scotland provided that no profit accrues at any stage. ISBN 1 84399 093 8 © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland CONTENTS 5 Section 1: Choice of clothing to meet needs Section 2: Influence of cultural, traditional and religious factors on choice of clothing and textile items 11 Section 3: Factors which influence consumer choice of clothing and textile items 13 Section 4: Social trends relating to the purchasing of clothing and textile items 21 Section 5: Labelling Statutory safety labelling requirements Voluntary safety labelling requirements 31 34 Section 6: The law and acts of parliament The difference between civil and criminal law The Trade Descriptions Act 1968 The Consumer Protection Act 1987 The Sale and Supply of Goods Act 1994 The Sale and Supply of Goods to Consumers Regulations 2002 39 41 42 44 46 Section 7: Government agencies and public bodies Roles and responsibilities of the Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) Roles and responsibilies of the British Standards Institution (BSI) Roles and responsibilities of the Citizens’ Advice Bureau (CAB) Roles and responsibilities of the Office of Fair Trading (OFT) An awareness of the purpose of trade associations and codes of practice Roles and responsibilities of the Trading Standards and Consumer Protection Department (TSD) 61 References 63 FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland 49 52 54 56 58 3 4 FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland CHOICE OF CLOTHING TO MEET NEEDS SECTION 1 Choice of clothing to meet needs Elaboration Individual needs relating to: • infants • young children • teenagers • adults • elderly • disabled • leisure/work • pregnancy • special occasions Infants Infants spend a lot of time sleeping and depend on others to clothe them. Playtime can be on the floor and hence dirty, so clothes will require plenty of washing. • Clothing should be easy to care for. Much laundering is required to cope with messy feeding times and accidents with nappies, etc. Clothing needs to require little or no ironing. Also desired will be clothing that can be tumble dried. Carers will have very little time for anything other than looking after the infant. • Clothing needs to be easy to put on and take off. This is often to be done by an adult. Independence in dressing should be encouraged. • Clothing needs to be safe, with no loose ribbons or ties that may cause choking. There should be no fabric with an unstable surface that can be chewed/sucked by the infant. • Clothing should be comfortable, made with soft fabrics. There should be no bulky or thick seams. All fastenings should be firmly attached and there should be no sharp edges on them. • Clothing should be able to regulate body temperature. Sleepwear should allow the baby to move. The infant should always be able to ‘shake off’ clothing when s/he is too warm in bed. • Clothing will require to be replaced often as the infant is growing very FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland 5 CHOICE OF CLOTHING TO MEET NEEDS fast. Care should be taken not to squeeze an infant into clothes that are too small. Inexpensive clothing should be considered. • Garments should be aesthetically pleasing for adults as well as for the infant, as it is usually the adult that will make the choices. • Clothing is often made from stretch fabrics so as not to restrict body movement and to allow for growth spurts. • Clothing needs to be flame resistant. Young children At this stage of development it is more important that clothing allows for independent dressing and that it encourages toilet training. • Clothes now should appeal to the young child, since many children by this stage have developed likes and dislikes and will want to make choices. • Elasticated waists make nappy changing and undressing for the toilet easy, particularly during toilet training, as accidents often happen. They are also easy for the young child to do themselves; encouraging independence. • Fastenings such as zips and buttons should be chunky to allow small hands to manipulate them. Also velcro fastenings are often used as an easy way to fasten shoes, jackets, etc. • Young children have no waist to ‘hold up’ clothes’, so they often are suspended from the shoulders, e.g. pinafores and dungarees. They also have extendable straps to allow for growth. • Fabrics should be durable as playtimes can be rough outside. Children fall over a lot, often outside. • They need to be easy to care for as with clothing for infants. Clothes get dirty very quickly. There will be little time for ironing and clothes that can be tumble dried will help. • Young children move about and grow rapidly so clothing should be comfortable. • Reasonably priced clothing needs to be considered as the young child is growing rapidly. • Garments should be aesthetically pleasing to both adult and to child. Teenagers • Most teenagers are fashion conscious, so clothing has to be up to date. • Peer pressure will often dictate what a teenager will or will not wear. The parent by this time has little or no influence. • Teenagers want to be fashionable to express their identity as separate from their parents. 6 FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland CHOICE OF CLOTHING TO MEET NEEDS • Teenagers have a limited budget, but will want frequent changes in style. • Some companies target this age group, producing cheaper ranges to suit teenagers’ budget. • Teenage clothing generally does not take durability into account, as they will have no desire to wear the clothes for more than one season. • Teenagers like to stand out from the crowd. • Some individuals like to make a statement about not conforming. • Strong group identities will be reflected in dress. Current examples of these include ‘moshers’ and ‘goths’. • Teenagers’ clothes often reflect their lifestyle. Many teenagers are involved in sports or uniformed organisations and special clothing for these activities may be required. • Currently the ‘label’ is very important for teenage clothes, from jackets, to T-shirts to trainers. • Teenagers are often the victims of ‘fad’ fashions. Adults • Adults, particularly those with no dependent children, have more disposable income to spend on clothes, and clothing often reflects their income and status. Many adults use clothing to make a statement about who they are, how much they earn etc. • Many adults are also influenced by fashion houses and labels. This is also seen as a status symbol. • More male adults are fashion conscious and there are more retailers marketing to the male customer. There is now a greater variety of clothing available for men. • Many adults ‘go to the gym’ or take up some sporting activity, and clothing will be required for these activities. • Many occupations require adults to have a uniform. This can mean that more money can be spent on clothes other than for work. • Adults will have clothes for work and clothes for leisure. • Adults tend to keep clothes a little longer than teenagers, and so are more willing to buy from expensive shops. Elderly Being elderly is often not dependent on age, but more on state of mind. There are men and women in their eighties who would not consider themselves elderly. Yet there are many much younger people who would. There are many reasons for this. FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland 7 CHOICE OF CLOTHING TO MEET NEEDS • Many elderly people have less money, and they may be living on a state pension only so have less to spend on clothing. Clothing will have to last for a long time, therefore. • Because of limited income many do not heat their home adequately, so extra clothing will be required. • Older people often find it difficult to generate their own inner heat, and so use clothing to keep them warm. • If the elderly person is immobile for much of the time, they will need clothing that will help to keep them warm. They are advised to wear ‘many layers’ rather than one thick layer of clothing in colder weather. • Warm clothing is required for going out in colder weather, e.g. wool. Hats, gloves and warm footwear should be worn, as poor circulation can make them cold. • Fabric should be easy to care for as elderly do not want to spend a lot of time washing. If they have poor movement in their hands they may find washing/ironing difficult. • Clothing should be comfortable. Many items have elasticated waists to allow extra comfort. • Many elderly people have difficulty in dressing because of medical conditions. This can be made easier with the use of elasticated waists, chunky buttons and zips, velcro fastenings and the avoidance of fastenings down the back of a garment. Many elderly people rely on clothing made from stretchy fabrics that allow for easy dressing. Disabled Disabled people need to maintain their dignity, and so have to have access to clothing that is fashionable and aesthetically appealing. This is often difficult for them to find. • Clothing has to match their disability. For example, if a person is visually impaired then clothing needs to be simple to fasten and put on and take off. • Clothing has to encourage independence to allow disabled people to dress themselves as much as possible. • Clothing needs to flatter their shape and figure to enable them to be stylish and have self-confidence in what they are wearing. • Fabrics used should be easy to care for, and as far as possible require little ironing; they should also be crease resistant and machine washable as far as possible. • Wheelchair users perspire a lot, and so have to have clothing that will be comfortable next to the skin. • People who have limited movement or who can’t move for themselves have to have clothes that will not chaff or irritate the skin. 8 FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland CHOICE OF CLOTHING TO MEET NEEDS Leisure/work • Leisure is different for many people. Many leisure pursuits require different types of clothing. These are required over and above clothes that are used for work. • Sport is a huge industry, particularly in clothing. Comfort for movement and stretch is important to consider. • For many, sportswear is casual wear, even though they are not involved in sport activities. • Many sports require performance fabrics, such as fabrics that ‘wick’ and keep the wearer dry during high levels of activity. Fabrics are worn that reduce ‘drag’ for speed sports and swimmers. • Much of the ‘cutting-edge’ technological developments in fabrics happen for outdoor activities. Examples of these are microfibres, to prevent absorption, breathable membranes, fleece fabrics. These all allow for comfort and safety in extreme conditions. • Technological advances mean that much of this type of clothing is expensive. This must be taken into consideration when contemplating pursuing a particular sport or interest. • Workwear clothes often identify an occupation, e.g. a doctor will wear a white coat; uniforms are worn by police, nurses, pilots, etc. • Many of these have been developed for protection, e.g. fire fighters outfit, chef’s outfit. • The health and safety of the workforce is very important to all industries, and safety clothing is often required by law. In the construction industry, hard hats, visibility clothing and steel-toe boots or shoes have to be worn. Many other industries are the same – fire fighters, outdoor occupations, dentists with their vinyl gloves and masks, etc. • Clothes worn in the presence of bacteria and where hygiene is paramount – in hospitals or food preparation areas – require to be disposable or washed at high temperatures to ensure bacteria are killed. Pregnancy Women become larger during pregnancy, and in the later stages mobility may also be reduced. • Elasticated waists are worn to allow for comfort and expansion. • Most women still want to dress fashionably, and so need to have upto-date styles and colours available in shapes that can be worn when pregnant. FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland 9 CHOICE OF CLOTHING TO MEET NEEDS • If fastenings are adjustable then clothing can be worn for an extended period during pregnancy. As the clothes are only required for nine months this will cut down costs. • Pregnant woman will tire easily, so clothing needs to be easy to care for and require little ironing. • Pregnant women tend to get hot, so clothing needs to allow them to remain cool and comfortable. • Clothing must not restrict movement, causing distress to the wearer. • Soft, stretchy fabrics will also allow for comfort and expansion. Special occasions These clothes tend to be worn infrequently, e.g. weddings, christenings, balls, parties, etc. • They are often made from specialist fabrics and can be highly decorated, such as sequins, glitter, embroidery. This is indicative of a special occasion. • They tend to be more costly, due to the extra trimmings and work involved in manufacture. • Exclusive designs are often required for special occasions, so many of these garments are not produced in the same volume as other clothing. This also makes them more expensive. • Most are not easy to care for, requiring the use of dry cleaners. Although expensive, this is not seen as a problem as the garment is only worn occasionally. • People are willing to pay higher prices for these goods as they are seen as a ‘one-off’ purchase. • Tradition and culture often dictates the type and style of clothing worn, e.g. wedding dress. 10 FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland CULTURAL, TRADITIONAL AND RELIGIOUS FACTORS SECTION 2 Influence of cultural, traditional and religious factors on choice of clothing and textile items Elaboration • Choice of clothing/textile items Cultural factors • Societies within each culture often encourage a certain dress code for individuals. Most people accept the cultural requirements and dress accordingly. • Business will also often have a ‘culture’ and will have an acceptable dress code that is usually adhered to by employees. For example, people working in large city companies often wear suits. Design companies tend to allow a more relaxed form of dress. • Teenagers are often the group within a culture that will want to move away from the recognised dress codes and rebel. • Culture is often dictated by climate. For example, in Scotland the kilt is made up with several layers of fabric overlapping. This keeps the wearer warm in the colder weather. In warmer climates, clothing is more flowing for men and women to allow the body to remain cool. • Many cultures are influenced by religious beliefs and so is clothing. • The patterns used on fabrics, types of fabrics and styles of garments are often linked to cultures, e.g. Scots and tartan, Japanese and kimonos, silks and Japan, Inuits and animal skins, Native Americans. • ‘Youth culture’ will dress the same as their peer group, e.g. ‘goths’. • Cultures tend to determine what is classed as men’s clothing and what is classed as women’s clothing. For women in the west, the ideas are vague, but men tend not to wear skirts. • Some cultures will not use wool or leather because of their respect for animals. • Festivals/celebrations have traditional garments worn on these occasions, e.g. in western culture, brides wear white. FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland 11 CULTURAL, TRADITIONAL AND RELIGIOUS FACTORS Traditional factors • Social customs will affect what we wear, not only in everyday garments but also in what is thought to be right or wrong on special occasions. • In western culture, women wear a white/or nearly white wedding dress, whereas in China the tradition is for the bridal dress to be red. • At funerals, we tend to wear black as a mark of respect. Men wear a black tie. • Formal clothing is worn to a formal occasion and for men this is often black, with a bow tie. There are only a few variations to this – a white tuxedo, or kilt. • Special occasions also mean the use of different textile items. Textiles are often specially used to decorate, e.g. tablecloths, napkins with Christmas or birthday scenes on them, white ribbons on a wedding car. • Many cultures have an annual festival day when many traditional clothes and textiles are used. Religious factors • It is important in many religions that the dress code of the men or women reflect the beliefs of the religion. • Islamic women are encouraged to cover as much of their body as possible with loose clothing to hide the shape of their body. • Muslim religion requires women to cover everything but their eyes, and in some extreme cases sheer cloth also covers the eyes • Leaders of each religion generally have particular clothing that indicates who they are. Special clothing is often used for special rites and occasions. • Many religious buildings do not allow entry unless the person has covered their top and their shoulders. In some, men are not allowed to wear short trousers. • Some people will be bound by religious beliefs and may want to rebel against the requirements of their religion’s dress code. 12 FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland CONSUMER CHOICE OF CLOTHING/TEXTILE ITEMS SECTION 3 Factors which influence consumer choice of clothing and textile items Elaboration • advertising/marketing/promotional influences • available income: wages/salaries/benefits/pensions • climatic conditions • cultural and religious influences • environmental issues: energy saving, eco-friendly products/ production methods to reduce pollution, cruelty-free products • geographical location/access to clothing/textile shops • health • likes/dislikes • peer pressure • priorities • technical innovations • shopping – online shopping Advertising • Advertising communicates instantaneous messages to large groups of potential customers. It stimulates customer interest and provides product or company information. Advertising has also been accused of creating desires and wants, by portraying attractive lifestyles for consumers to seek to attain. • It is a very powerful tool that companies use and they spend a lot of money getting the advert just right. Advertising uses psychologists to learn about human behaviour and match adverts to people’s thinking/ personality. • Advertising agencies are businesses that exist to create adverts. They plan, suggest, organise the production of and market other companies’ adverts. • As well as new products, advertising will also be used to ‘relaunch’ existing products. • Advertisers get their message across in a variety of ways. They can use: – catchy tunes, repeatedly throughout the advert – a catch phrase or jingle, particularly one that is easy to recognise FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland 13 CONSUMER CHOICE OF CLOTHING/TEXTILE ITEMS – an advert repeated several times over a short period of time; the same advert will be run several times during one programme on television – companies also sponsor some TV programmes and their products are advertised at commercial breaks, at the beginning and end of programmes. – advertisers will use humour and intellect to make their advert noticeable – adverts often appeal to a desire/weakness in a person, e.g. they show cute and cuddly animals or babies. – in many adverts, famous people are used to promote the products – some companies are allowed to have branded products on display during television programmes and in films • Many forms of media are used for advertising – mail shots through the door, newspapers, magazines, trade journals, directories – such as Yellow Pages, internet, e-mail, billboards, transport – buses and taxis, leaflets and posters at point of sale, carrier bags, hot-air balloons, radio, television, cinema and many others Marketing All textile goods that have been designed and produced have to be successfully sold in a market with similar products that similar companies have also produced and want to sell. Marketing is how a retailer or manufacturer promotes their own goods. Marketing starts with market research • Companies will ‘profile’ their customers for each range of products; they have such departments in their retail outlet. This is done through careful market research. • Information/data is also gathered at point of sale. The data will provide information on what is selling well and whether the purchase is made with a credit or debit card. An indication of who is making the purchase can also be gained. • Market research aims to establish what customers want and need. • Market research helps to prevent a failed product. Many products fail each year. Advertising is a major part of marketing • Once a company has a profile of who their target market is likely to be, they will then market their products to those people. They will aim their advertisements and all promotional materials at them. • Advertising is always an important part of marketing, as new customers are always needed as well as existing customers. 14 FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland CONSUMER CHOICE OF CLOTHING/TEXTILE ITEMS Packaging • How a product is packaged is an important part of the marketing process. Packaging serves many purposes: protection, promotion and providing information. • Colours used and themes portrayed have to reflect the product and relate to the target market. • For many textile goods, the packaging is done at point of sale and there are many stores/retailers whose carrier bags are very much sought after. This is generally because of the exclusiveness of the store. A current example would be Bloomingdale’s in New York and their ‘little brown bag’. Promotional influences Retailers use many means to promote their company, brand and goods. Good communication is key when promoting goods. It gets a company’s name and image known. • This can be done as displays at point of sale. Clothes are often displayed on mannequins, in window displays or in displays around the store. • Promotion is also done through advertising. • Much promotion within the textile industry, particularly fashion, is done during trade shows, shows of collections and fashion weeks, when there is much media and press coverage. • Magazines and journals run promotions for textile goods. Some may give free gifts to entice custom. • To help maintain existing customers, retailers use store cards, loyalty cards and bonus schemes to entice customers back to the store. They will give special offers to these customers. Available income Clothing choice is a lot to do with available income, particularly income that is left over when all the bills have been paid. This is often called ‘disposable income’. To get to one’s available income, you have to establish your total income first. For most people this comes in a salary. Salary is paid monthly and generally into a bank account. The amount of money a person earns is expressed as a total amount for a year. Wages is when a person is paid by an hourly rate or piece rate. The wages are also paid into the bank. They are usually paid monthly, but there are still some jobs that pay weekly. FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland 15 CONSUMER CHOICE OF CLOTHING/TEXTILE ITEMS Benefits are paid when a person is not earning any money as they are unable to work or are unemployed. Benefits can also be paid over and above a salary if there is a dependant in the household with a disability. Pensions are paid when a person is in retirement. This could be a pension paid by the state or a personal pension for which the person has made contributions during their working life. Benefits and pensions are fixed incomes; in other words, they are the same each month. Choice of clothing varies with disposable income. This is dependent on a person’s stage in life, how many people are in the family and what other demands are made on the money coming into the house. Climatic conditions • Clothing is known as the ‘second skin’, and a person should always be comfortable in whatever they are wearing. • The wearer must have an equal balance of heat and moisture in the ‘microclimate’ between their skin and their clothing. Ventilation might be required. • Many items of clothing and textile goods are used for protection. This can be from severe weather conditions; either very hot or very cold. • In the heat, sun-protecting clothing can be used which does not allow the sun’s rays to get to a person’s skin. • In the cold, much use is made of breathable fabrics to allow a person to keep warm, but still allow perspiration to escape. Clothing is also required to keep out wind and rain. • It is for severe weather conditions that many new technological developments have been made in fabrics and textiles. • The climate a person finds themselves in for either work or leisure pursuits will determine what clothing/ textile goods are purchased. Cultural and religious influences As has been discussed previously (on pages 11–12), these factors have a definite effect on a person’s choice of clothing and textiles used. An individual’s personal beliefs are also important. • Vegetarians may not wear any products made from animal skins. They will wear footwear made from textiles other than leather. • Many people are against animal skins being worn and will not wear/ purchase fur. 16 FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland CONSUMER CHOICE OF CLOTHING/TEXTILE ITEMS • Many people will wear only natural coloured products or buy products that have been dyed using natural dyes. These products will be considered more environmentally friendly. Environmental issues Energy saving • Many textile products are made to save energy during laundering. Fabrics can be washed at low temperatures, saving energy for heating water. • Many are made non-iron. This saves fossil fuel energy as well as people energy. • Many washing machines are made to have fuzzy logic. This weighs the wash load and will use just enough water and washing powder for the size of the load. • This is also true of tumble dryers. Eco-friendly products/production methods to reduce pollution/ cruelty-free products • The textile industry contributes greatly to pollution. This can be in fabric production, dyeing and transportation. Manufacturers are aware of this and try to reduce harmful pollution. • All products also have to be disposed of at the end of their useful life and this also puts a strain on the environment. • To make products more eco-friendly manufacturers are working on and making new developments all the time. One example of this is Llyocell which was studied in Resource Management. • Half of all modern fibres are synthetic, made from oil which is a nonrenewable resource. During the burning of oil to produce the fibres, large quantities of carbon dioxide and other by-products are given off. These are all harmful to the environment. • Consumers are much more aware of environmental issues and now seek alternatives. • Natural dyes are being used more. Natural/organic methods of growing and breeding are also sought after. • Many consumers are recycling clothes more. Many are buying from second-hand shops. ‘Vintage’ clothing is a current trend in fashion clothing. • There are available ‘textile’ collection banks in many towns and cities for recycling fabrics. • To ensure a textile, fabric finish or dyestuff is suitable to be used next to a person’s skin, it has in the past often been tested on animals. Consumers no longer find this acceptable and manufacturers have to look for other methods of product testing. FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland 17 CONSUMER CHOICE OF CLOTHING/TEXTILE ITEMS • Eco-labelling is a symbol found on many textile goods which assures the consumer that the product meets certain standards, either during production, in use or after disposal. Geographical location/access to clothing/textile shops • Consumers living within travelling distance of town/ city centres will have a large range of shops/clothing/textile choice. • Consumers with access to cars can visit large superstores situated on peripheral sites of town. These stores pay less rent/rates, and therefore may be able to offer cheaper clothing/textile goods. • They will also be able to offer more choice because of their size. • Consumers living in isolated locations may purchase clothes by mail order or online. Because of the internet, where a person lives no longer prohibits them buying trendy/fashionable goods as most high street shops and designer shops trade over the internet. • People living in rural areas have different clothing needs to those in towns or cities. Health • A person may require ‘easy-care’ textile goods as their health prohibits them from washing and ironing. • If a person is immobile with their health, they will require clothing that is stretchy for comfort in movement. • Clothing will also have to ‘wick’ to allow perspiration to escape. • A person’s health may make shopping for clothes/textile goods problematic and they may have to use other methods, such as the internet and mail order. • They may require specialist clothing which could have cost implications. Likes/dislikes • Shops sell garments that reflect current fashions, trends, etc. Depending on a person’s likes/dislikes, choice would be increased or decreased. • Colours – garments may only be available in current fashion colours so may not suit consumers. • Many people want to impress and be liked and they will buy clothes to ‘stand out’. • Market research will be carefully carried out to match target markets’ likes and dislikes. • Fashion has to follow current consumer thinking or trends will be unsuccessful. • Consumers may have prejudices against a particular store or brand. Likes and dislikes may be driven by the ‘label’ on a product. 18 FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland CONSUMER CHOICE OF CLOTHING/TEXTILE ITEMS Peer pressure • Clothing is used to express a ‘belonging’ to a certain group. Members of the group will want to dress in similar style to others in the group. • Peer pressure in the workplace requires a person to conform to a certain standard/code of dress. • Teenagers, in particular are aware of peer pressure and want to ‘fit in’ with what their particular group finds to be acceptable clothing. • Peer pressure can be a problem if a person in the group does not have the income to ‘keep up’ with the rest of the group. Priorities • Amount available to spend on clothing has to be assessed after the essential expenditure for the household is made. • To do this a person has to prioritise their spending. • Some spending on textile goods will be seen as essential – to keep a person and their home warm. To keep them decent. To protect them. • After these basic needs are met, ‘extra’ clothing/textile goods can be purchased according to the disposable income. Technological innovations Online shopping A wide range of goods can now be purchased over the internet so it is possible to access goods from all over the world regardless of where you live. Benefits for the consumer: • The consumer can easily ‘window shop’ – research/compare brands and prices. • The consumer can easily shop at any time of the day or night and from the comfort of home. • Goods are delivered straight to the door. • Delivery times can be selected which are convenient to the shopper. • No crowds or queues to contend with. • Can be cheaper as sometimes special internet discounts available. • Many consumers now use this facility to do food shopping which saves the consumer time during a busy week. • Secure payments can be made using credit/debit cards, which means as soon as the order is processed goods can be dispatched to the consumer. In some instances this can be as soon as 24 hours later. FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland 19 CONSUMER CHOICE OF CLOTHING/TEXTILE ITEMS • It is a very useful method of shopping for people who are housebound or disabled. Some consumers are, however, reluctant to purchase on the internet because: • In some instances delivery charges substantially increase the cost of the goods. • They do not like being unable to actually see/touch the goods, with the computer screen perhaps not showing the colour/style exactly. • The hassle involved in returning goods if unsuitable can be offputting. • They may be hesitant to use credit/debit card as a form of payment on the website for fear of fraud, especially on unsecure websites. • Some consumers prefer to speak to someone dealing with their order and don’t like the anonymity of the process. 20 FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland SOCIAL TRENDS SECTION 4 Social trends relating to the purchasing of clothing and textile items Elaboration Mass manufacture and bespoke tailoring Mass manufacture • The clothing industry ranges from small – many items hand-made (bespoke) – operations up to large industrial garment/textile goods manufacturing companies. • Mass manufacture is the term used to describe the production of garments for the ‘ready-to-wear’ market by mass production means. • The rise of mass manufacture came from the acceptance of standard sizing. Clothes/items are sold in specific sizes and are not made to measure. • All cutting and making procedures are standardised, meaning that all items have the same shape and allowances for uncommon shapes and sizes cannot be made. • The development of the sewing machine in the mid-nineteenth century, the adaptation of the band-saw to speed up the cutting process and the development of pressing equipment all helped to revolutionise clothing and textile-goods production. • Because production is on such a large scale many thousands of items are produced in a fraction of the time it takes for bespoke garments to be designed and made. • Because of the scale of manufacture and time to produce, items are relatively cheap for the consumer. • Technological developments in the textile industry have given everyone the opportunity to buy fashionable clothes and goods at affordable prices. Each year with every new technological step more costs can be cut and the production and transportation of goods becomes more cost effective. • Mass production has led to more frequent style changes, increased consumer demand for goods and a relative decrease in the price of goods. FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland 21 SOCIAL TRENDS • The consumer has a wide choice of goods available but has no influence over any of their design or cut. • Retail stores have developed alongside mass-production methods, and a move away from specialist shops to large chain stores has occurred. • Mass production is divided into target groupings: women’s, men’s, and children’s wear. • Technology has had a major impact on mass production, most recently in the use of computers in design, manufacture and in data management. Bespoke tailoring • Traditionally, all clothes were made by hand for individual customers before there was mass production. • Today, men’s suits are the most common garment that can still be made this way. • This production is done on behalf of a client and to their specific needs – size and requirements. Unusual body shapes can be taken into account when designing and cutting a garment. • Because only one item is in production at any one time, items are generally very expensive and it is an exclusive market that has enough money to afford garments/textile goods made in this way. • The client chooses the designs and selects the materials used for the garment in discussion with the designer/manufacturer. • Because of the higher costs involved, more specialist fabrics and trimmings can be used and are often desired by the client. • It takes much more time to manufacture a bespoke garment; many of the operations are hand done. It is a highly skilled industry with little of it automated. Hence, too, the increase in costs for the customer. • A client may be paying a lot more money, but in return they have a product that no one else will ever have, and so have exclusivity. 22 FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland SOCIAL TRENDS Major fashion influences Elaboration Major fashion influences: • fashion cycle • history of fashion • investigation of the work of three designers – Paul Smith, Vivienne Westwood and Louis Vuitton (these designers will change on a regular basis and SQA will inform centres about changes a year in advance) • designer labels • fashion houses • global fashion influences • interpretation of fashion trends by high-street retailers • role models Fashion cycle Most fashion garment styles will follow the fashion cycle below. Introduction of a style • This is often done by the trend-setters of the day, the fashion designers, when they show their work during fashion weeks. • Items at this stage are often quite extreme and unacceptable to many. • People who have a lot of money to spend on clothes and who are ‘fashion leaders’ will be the first to pick up on a style. • The style at this stage will be quite exclusive and prices are at their highest. The rise • Style leaders have worn the style and it is likely to have made fashion headlines in the media. • Prices are still high and some of the top-end retailers have begun to market the style. • Fashion followers will by this time have picked up the style in versions that are cheaper and a little less extreme. Maturity • The style is at its most popular at this stage with most high street stores selling the style. • There is now a lack of exclusivity. • The style will be in a modified form that has been accepted by most consumers. FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland 23 SOCIAL TRENDS • The fashion leaders will no longer be wearing the style. The decline • People are still wearing the style but it is less interesting due to overexposure. • Stores will have reduced the price and many goods will have been picked up by factory-outlet stores. • People with less money or who are less style conscious will pick up the style at this stage. Obsolescence • At this stage the style is often far removed from the original version. • The style is often vulgar, cheap and poorly made. History of fashion The fashion of clothing is about the way people dress. In the beginning, people only wore clothes for protection, not for adornment or to decorate themselves. As tastes became more sophisticated so did clothing, as it was used to disguise unwanted body shape and to emphasise desired shape. Styles change as do the current trends in any society and in allowance with their customs and culture. • Roman times. Clothing, as with every aspect of life, was very regulated. Men were allowed to wear two basic garments, a toga and a cloak. The toga was a symbol of status and Roman citizenship. Women wore a garment similar to the toga but it was usually fitted, not left loose. • Saxons and Normans. The standard garment was a belted tunic that was worn long or short. If you were a peasant your tunic was split up the sides. If you were a noblemen, your tunic was sown right the way up. The female equivalent was ankle length and tied at the waist. The colour of a woman’s garment was indicative of her financial status. • Late middle ages. During the thirteenth century, clothes began to take on a more elegant shape. This was particularly true for the wealthy. A wider variety of fabrics were being introduced. It was during the fourteenth century that styles for men and women began to differ from each other. • The Renaissance. It was during this time that the ‘middle classes’ were established – merchants and trades people. This group of people had money and began to imitate the aristocracy and this was evident in 24 FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland SOCIAL TRENDS • • • • • • • the fashions of the time. Clothing was extravagant, made from expensive fabrics such as velvets, silks and brocades. It was during the 1500s that the men’s shirt appeared for the first time. During the eighteenth century, men’s fashion was to wear wigs. Women wore very exaggerated shapes. Shapes relied on whalebone and large hoops. For women, hats were a must. The French Revolution caused fashion to become more simple and comfortable for men and women. The textile industry in Britain became a huge industry. People were able to go out to work and earn more money, giving them more money to spend on clothing. Fashion clothing became the right of everyone. Fashion styles were now established – gowns/dresses for women and jacket and trousers for men. The twentieth century began by making even lingerie a fashion item. During the 1920s and 1930s women’s fashion began to change as they became emancipated (had greater freedom). This led to short bobbed hair and a shortening of garment lengths. Sports clothes took on a significance and the start of the casual look emerged. The styles during the 1940s were restricted due to the war, lack of fabric and time to produce goods. Everything was for the war effort. In 1947, however, that changed with Dior’s introduction of the ‘new look’ for women: nipped-in waists with rounded busts and hips. It was also at this time that men’s fashion began to break from tradition. In the 1950s, the ‘teenager’ was born, and styles for young people began to be different to that of their parents. The 1960s saw a fashion revolution with the emergence of the miniskirt and daring fashions for both sexes. Mary Quant was a style leader in the 60s. Jeans and casual wear became ever more popular. By 1980s and 1990s, people had a better standard of living and more money to spend. Technological developments meant cheaper and more readily available clothing. A significant new fibre was lycra which has led to figure-hugging clothing. Men’s interest in fashion also began to grow. In the twenty-first century technology still has a major influence, with fabrics that have specific functions as well as high performance. Fashion today is big business and styles are changing faster than ever before as manufacturers are able to respond to consumer demands very quickly – within weeks as opposed to months during the twentieth century. Branding is very important. Paul Smith • Paul Smith began his fashion career as a junior in a clothing warehouse. In 1960 he opened a store in Nottingham selling designer FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland 25 SOCIAL TRENDS wear and a few of his own designs. • He studied fashion at evening classes and with the assistance of his wife, a graduate of the Royal College of Art, his business grew. • He showed his first collection in Paris in 1976. • He revived the use of ‘boxer shorts’. • His style is very British and mainly traditional. • He introduced bold colours and prints to menswear. • He opened his first shop in London in 1979, his first in New York in 1987 and Paris in 1993. He now has over 200 shops in Japan. • His range now includes womenswear, childrenswear and recently furniture. • In 1991 he won the prestigious Royal British Designer for Industry award, was made CBE in 1994 and knighted in 2001. • His multicoloured stripes are synonomous with the Paul Smith style and feature across all his clothing. His style has been much mimicked by high-street shops. Vivienne Westwood • She is said to be one of fashion’s most innovative designers and has created some of the most controversial collections of the twentieth century • She opened a shop with Malcolm McLaren in the early 1970s and was the designer with the most influence on Punk, creating the Sex Pistols’ punk ‘streetwear look’. • Her ‘Bondage Collection’ in 1976 was the turning-point of her career. The garments combined chains, safety pins and leather. • Tartan bondage suits were followed by kilts, bum flaps and the infamous ‘Anarchy’ T-shirt, showing the queen with a safety pin through her nose. • Westwood was prosecuted several times for her risky designs but this never dampened her creativity. • In 1981, she anticipated trends like neo-romanticism with her colourful ‘Pirates’ collection. 1n 1984 she moved towards deconstruction, showing clothes with exposed seams, torn fabric and jackets created in the reverse. • The year 1985 saw the unveiling of the ‘Minicrini’, a corset dress created using historic corset-making methods. • Among her most recognisable fabrics are tartan and tweeds. She continues to produce inspirational designs, showing collections twice yearly in Paris and London, and has been awarded an OBE for her contribution to the fashion industry. 26 FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland SOCIAL TRENDS Louis Vuitton • The year 1854 saw the creation of the Louis Vuitton firm and the beginning of the House of Louis Vuitton. They first began to design and manufacture luggage and travel goods. • In 1896, the now very famous ‘Monogram’ canvas was created. It is a lightweight supple, strong sturdy canvas which is completely waterproof. • The ‘steamer’ bag soon followed and became one of the Louis Vuitton ‘cult’ bags. It was originally made for laundry. • The year 1914 saw the first Louis Vuitton building on the Champs Elysees in Paris. It was the largest travel-items store in the world. • From 1978 stores were opened in Japan, then Korea, China, Africa and now Russia. • Marc Jacobs became creative director in 1997 and since then the company has been making its biggest changes in decades. • It was in 1998 that their first clothing and sportswear ready-to-wear range was launched. • The Monogram design begins to develop, first to ‘Graffiti’ then in 2002 to a very colourful style of the Monogram. • The collection today also includes watches and jewellery and the use of goatskin for goods. • The house also produces travel and city guidebooks and sponsors classic-car and yachting events. • The luggage and handbag ranges are much loved by celebrities and coveted by fashionistas (followers of fashion). Designer labels • These are clothes that have extra status by being associated with a particular designer’s name. The designer may not have been the actual designer of the product but someone from their design team. • The clothing generally tends to be more expensive, as you are paying for the name as well as the garment. • Peer pressure makes a lot of young people in particular conform to buying as much branded wear as possible. • Cheaper out-of-town designer outlet stores allow more people to access labelled goods at reasonable prices. These are often the previous season’s styles and colours. • Designer labels are often copied and sold for a fraction of the price. Trading Standards work hard to try to stop this ever-increasing business. • Second-hand stores selling designer label goods are also very popular. FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland 27 SOCIAL TRENDS Fashion houses • These are companies that are set up by famous fashion designers. • When a designer sets up their own house they are by this time very successful. • It is the fashion-house designers that are the cutting edge of fashion and are often the trend-setters. Extreme designs are developed, and the houses all show their collections twice a year during fashion week. • Many fashion-house designers are used to develop the lavish costumes for many films and stage productions. • They are also the main producers of bespoke garments. • Most have made ‘diffusion’ collections. These are cheaper collections made available on the high street, mainly in high fashion stores. • Examples of fashion houses are Christian Dior, Christian Lacroix, John Paul Gaultier, Karl Lagerfield, Louis Vuitton, Yves Saint-Laurent, Issey Miyake and Coco Chanel. Global fashion influences • Most fashions are similar now the world over. Many fashion trends occur because of issues that affect the whole world. • Films and cinema have a great influence on fashion. Styles have changes with the release of films such as Moulin Rouge and Pirates of the Caribbean. • TV productions also influence fashion, e.g. Sex in the City has made a huge impact on women’s shoe fashion. • Other global issues such as the Gulf war and 9–11 also impact on fashion and current trends. Political beliefs can be demonstrated in a particular style of dressing, e.g. universal dress in China during Mao Tse Tung’s era. • Environmental issues are also a factor, as more consumers are concerned about the damage to the environment caused by the textile industry. • Designers produce for a worldwide market. Most major cities of the world have in them stores for each of the major designers. Interpretation of fashion trends by high-street retailers • Style emerges at a leading fashion event, during fashion weeks. • Designers working for high-street stores will consider whether the style has appeal for their target market. • It may be too extreme, and a watered-down version may be developed to make it more suitable for their customers. 28 FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland SOCIAL TRENDS • Soon after the event, leading stores will try out the styles. These will be in prime locations in cities and towns where consumers are fashion conscious. • The appeal of the new style will be monitored and analysed according to sales figures. • Information gathered may lead to a continuation or to modifications or to dropping the style altogether. • Sales continue to be monitored. • New trends are regularly introduced as the process is repeated. Role models • Famous people have influenced fashions for many decades. • Intense media coverage of their lifestyles leads to a keen interest in what clothes they are wearing. Many people want to follow the same fashion styles. • Media coverage influences consumer aspirations and desires to emulate their idols. • Recently, famous people have been used as models on catwalks, e.g. Victoria Beckham. • Many companies are using celebrities to endorse their products. Many celebrities receive free items of clothing, as that way a company will get free press coverage. • Role models are often accused of having a negative influence on society, for example with the use of very thin catwalk models and the (possibly linked?) increase of eating disorders. FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland 29 30 FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland LABELLING SECTION 5 Statutory safety labelling requirments Elaboration • fibre content labels • nightwear safety labels • flammability labels • The information given on labels helps consumers make informed choices by advising on the safety, quality, construction and aftercare of textile goods/products. • The reaction of textiles to fire (in other words, what happens to them when they are exposed to fire or a heat source) is governed by International, European and British legislation. This means there are laws written to protect consumers. • Nightwear, bed linen, contract curtains, protective clothing, furniture and upholstery fabrics should all meet agreed flammability standards. • Voluntary labelling (not required by law) relating to safety includes BSI Kitemark and British Lion Safety label for toys. Fibre content labels The law on textile composition labelling is called the Textile Products Indication of Fibre Contents Regulations 1986, 1988, 1994. It applies mainly to knitted and woven goods and includes carpets and upholstered furniture. Where a fibre comprises at least 85 per cent of a product: • The percentage of that fibre must be stated or • The label must say ‘85 per cent minimum’ or • The percentages of all fibres must be given in descending order. Where each fibre is less than 85 per cent of a product: • The fibres must be listed in ascending order and • The percentage of the two greatest fibres must be stated. FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland 31 LABELLING Exceptions • Where fibres separately amount to less than 10 per cent, they may be listed as ‘other fibres’ if their total percentage is given and • Where an identified fibre is less than 10 per cent, the name and percentage of every fibre must be given. These rules do not apply to products manufactured from one fibre only. Fabrics bought by the metre must also have their fibre content clearly shown at point of sale. Nightwear safety labels • Children’s nightwear and dressing gowns must by law be made from fabrics which comply with BS 5722 (specification for flammability performance of fabrics and fabric assemblies used in sleepwear and dressing gowns). • No labelling referring to flammability is required. • Adult nightwear made from fabric which does not comply with BS 5722 must be labelled to show that it does not meet the requirements. Nightwear (Safety Regulations) 1985 and Amendments 1987 Consumer Protection Act • Nightwear which does not meet the flammability performance requirements must carry a label with the words: ‘KEEP AWAY FROM FIRE’ (in red letters). • Nightwear which meets the flammability performance requirements must carry a label with one of the following forms of words: – ‘LOW FLAMMABILITY TO BS 5722’ (in black letters), or – ‘LOW FLAMMABILITY TO BS 5722’ (in black letters) and ‘KEEP AWAY FROM FIRE’ (in red letters), or – ‘KEEP AWAY FROM FIRE’ (in red letters). • Any nightwear which is treated with flame-retardant chemicals must carry a label with the words: ‘DO NOT WASH AT MORE THAN 50°C. CHECK SUITABILITY OF WASHING AGENT (in black letters). 32 FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland LABELLING Flammability labels A B For nightwear which does not meet flammability performance requirements, symbol A must be used. For nightwear that does meet the flammability performance requirements one or both of the symbols must be used. FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland 33 LABELLING Voluntary safety labelling requirements Elaboration • British Standards Institution (BSI) kitemark • European Union (EU) standard care labelling symbols • ‘CE’ mark • Country of origin • British Toy and Hobby Association’s ‘lion’ mark • BEAB label • organic label British Standards Institution (BSI) kitemark • The appearance of this kitemark means that products have been endorsed by the British Standards Institution (BSI), an independent organisation. (More on page 52.) • BSI sets standards, dimensions and specifications for manufactured goods • A ‘British Standard’ is a document which stipulates the specifications, requirements for testing or measuring, which a product must comply with to be suited to its intended purpose, and therefore work efficiently. • Products are tested to destruction to ensure certain safety standards are achieved. • Compliance with BSI is generally through choice and is not compulsory. • For some manufacturers ‘British Standards’ are compulsory, e.g. motorcycle crash helmet manufacturers and car seat-belt manufacturers, as failure to meet exacting standards could be potentially life threatening. • Producers who wish to comply can apply for certification for their product. This allows them to display the BSI kitemark on the product. This will attract custom, as the product is seen to have ‘added value’. • Subsequent inspections by BSI inspectors will take place to ensure they are maintaining the standards. • These standards state only minimum requirements; producers are free to set higher standards for themselves. 34 FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland LABELLING European Union (EU) standard care labelling symbols Care labels provide advice for consumers on looking after the product to ensure that it will last as long as is required by reasonable use of the product. These labels may inform of the best way to clean and maintain the product. Symbols are used so as to ensure understanding and are found on: • • • • Clothing Detergent packets Washing machines Irons The British Standards Institute in conjunction with the European committee for Standardisation (CEN) has produced a new textile care labelling scheme. • EN 23758: 1993 Textiles – Care Labelling Code, which is identical to • ISO 3758 1991 published by the International Organisation for Standardisation (ISO) The care symbols are shown on the next page and demonstrate how well thought out the graphics were. National text in English, French and German accompany the symbols at the moment, but it is hoped that the continued use of the symbols will preclude the need for text. FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland 35 LABELLING 36 FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland LABELLING European ‘CE’ mark The Toy Safety Directive requires that all toys meet exacting standards with regard to safety, whether produced, made in or imported into the European Union. • The European CE mark indicates that the toy has passed mechanical, physical, flammability and electrical tests. • Common items of clothing and textiles found within the EU can also display the mark. • All clothing that claims to protect the wearer must be CE marked; this applies to work and leisure clothing, e.g. work boots, hard-hats on construction sites. Country of origin • Where a product has been manufactured has to be shown on a label. • If the product is manufactured outside the EU then consumers will know that the product may not meet the standards expected in the EU or Britain. British Toy & Hobby Association (BTHA) ‘lion mark’ • Members must be licensed with BTHA before they are allowed to display the lion mark on their products. • Agreement on code of practice covers toy safety matters and advertising of toys. • Toys displaying the lion mark comply with BSEN 71 BS 5665 in relation to: – Mechanical safety – moving parts are not harmful, e.g. sharp points – Physical safety – no loose eyes or noses – Fire resistance – non-flammable materials are used in production. BEAB – British Electrotechnicals Approval Board • This is the new trade mark for the British Electrotechnical Approvals Board. It indicates that a sample of the product concerned has been tested and meets British safety standards. FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland 37 LABELLING Labelling of organic textiles Organic cotton Organic cotton is cotton that has been grown for at least three years without chemical pesticides, defoliants, or fertilisers. Fertilisers that are used include compost, manure, naturally derived mineral and plant fertilisers, and crop rotation. Insect controls involve the use of beneficial insects and natural pesticides certified for organic crops. Organic cotton is also processed without oils, chemicals and pesticides. Because of their rapidly developing bodies and immature immune systems, babies and children can benefit greatly from pure, organic cotton products. Organic cotton feels softer, smells cleaner, and is less likely to trigger allergies. The sustainable farming practices used to grow organic cotton do not pollute groundwater, surface water, soil, or air. In fact, soil quality is actually improved by the cultivation of organic cotton. Organic cotton is safer for farmers, for you, for your baby, for the environment, and for all the other creatures with whom we share this amazing planet. Green cotton Green cotton is conventionally grown cotton that has been processed without bleaches, dyes and other chemicals such as formaldehyde finishes. It is also known as untreated, unbleached cotton. The label below may appear on organic textiles. The Demeter organic certification symbol is used throughout the world to indicate that crops have been grown and processed according to widely respected biodynamic production and processing standards. Biodynamic agriculture is one of the more sustainable and ecological forms of organic agriculture in existence and is inspired by a deepened understanding of nature. 38 FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland THE LAW AND ACTS OF PARLIAMENT SECTION 6 The difference between civil and criminal law Elaboration • Civil law – concerned with the rights of individuals • Criminal law – concerned with protecting the community Civil law • The principle of civil law is to provide all citizens with an accessible and written collection of laws which apply to them, that judges must follow. (It covers subjects such as land disputes, divorce, contract breaches between buyers and sellers.) • It deals with the rights of one individual to another, such as consumer contracts. • An example is if a shop sells you faulty goods and refuses a refund. The matter can be dealt with under civil law. • Civil cases are heard in Scotland in the Sheriff Court under the Small Claims Procedure. The more serious matters are dealt with in the Court of Session. Criminal law • Criminal law deals with issues or conduct considered so harmful to society that they are prohibited by statute (the law), prosecuted and punished by the government. (Criminal law deals with murder, theft, fraud, road traffic offences.) • It is concerned with protecting the community as a whole. • An example might be a restaurant that is selling food which is unfit for human consumption. • In Scotland criminal prosecutions are made by the Procurator Fiscal. • Minor criminal cases are heard in Scotland by a Sheriff in a Sheriff Court or in a District Court. FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland 39 THE LAW AND ACTS OF PARLIAMENT Definitions Acts – Statutes passed by parliament, which can only be modified by parliament. It is against the law if you don’t comply with an Act of Parliament, e.g. the Sale and Supply of Goods Act 1994. Regulations – Regulations are made by an appropriate government minister empowered to do so under the terms of a specific act. They usually deal with specific areas in greater detail than the act, e.g. the Sale and Supply of Goods to Consumers Regulations 2002. 40 FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland THE LAW AND ACTS OF PARLIAMENT Trade Descriptions Act 1968 (criminal law) Elaboration It is a criminal offence to: • falsely describe goods • mislead consumers about services The act sets out to protect consumers from traders who either deliberately or accidentally mislead consumers. It is a criminal offence to: • falsely describe goods, e.g. a cashmere sweater must be made from cashmere wool • knowingly mislead consumers about services they provide, e.g. if a hotel is described as being 50 metres from the beach it should be. However, the 50 metres may be across a busy road! The act refers to: • written and spoken descriptions, e.g. if you are told the jumper is cashmere and it is not, you have right to complain. The act also states that: • goods that are offered ‘for sale’ must have been sold at a higher price for at least 28 days in the previous 6 months. FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland 41 THE LAW AND ACTS OF PARLIAMENT Consumer Protection Act 1987 (Part 1: civil law, parts 2 and 3: criminal law) Elaboration It is a criminal offence if: • traders who supply goods do not make sure they are safe • traders mislead customers about the true price of goods; for example, all prices charged to private customers must include value added tax (VAT) • This act prohibits the supply of goods that are not in accordance with general safety requirements or which are unsafe. • It provides for the safety and protection of consumers by enabling regulations or orders to be made controlling consumer goods. Traders who supply goods must make sure they are safe. The aim of the act is to prevent or reduce injury to consumers by dangerous or defective goods. • It provides for approved safety standards to enable compliance with general safety requirements. • It provides powers for seizing and forfeiture, and the powers to suspend the sale of suspected unsafe goods. Goods previously banned include small scented rubbers, expanding animals and stink bombs. • It contains provisions as to the requirement for persons to publish notices warning of unsafe goods previously supplied. • It provides for liability for damage caused by defective products. • It prohibits misleading price indications. It is an offence to give misleading prices for goods, e.g. VAT must be included when dealing with private customers. Any hidden extras, delivery, etc. must be shown. • The act also applies to special offers. • It covers both new and second-hand goods. • It does not cover car-boot sales, jumble sales or private sales, e.g. selling your car via an advert in a newspaper. There are many regulations concerned with safety within the act and they cover a wide range of goods. Some examples are: – Anoraks for children must not fasten at the neck with a drawstring to lessen risk of accidental strangulation. – Chemical products that are dangerous must be clearly labelled with warnings and safety precautions. 42 FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland THE LAW AND ACTS OF PARLIAMENT – Some chemicals must be packaged in child-resistant containers. – Nightwear for children must meet flame-proof tests. Nightwear for adults must be flame proof or carry warnings labels. – Use of poisonous substances is limited, e.g. lead (graphite) in pencils, paint or chalk. – Toys must be flame resistant, made without sharp edges, spikes or parts that can be easily pulled off (e.g. eyes, noses). – Plastic bags containing toys must have openings too small for a child’s head, to lessen the risk of suffocation. The act is enforced by Trading Standards and Consumer Protection Officers. FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland 43 THE LAW AND ACTS OF PARLIAMENT The Sale and Supply of Goods Act 1994 (criminal law) Elaboration • There is a contract between the seller and the buyer • Goods must be of satisfactory quality • Goods must fit the description given • Goods must be fit for their purpose as made known to the seller • Consumers have a reasonable period of time to accept the goods or reject them This act reinforces the 1979 act stating that goods must be fit for the purpose for which they are sold. • There is contract of sale between the buyer and the seller. It covers the sale of goods, hire purchase, transfer of goods and redemption of trading stamps for goods. • Goods must be of satisfactory quality. Goods are of satisfactory quality if they meet the standards that a reasonable person would regard as satisfactory. QUALITY: a definition The quality of goods includes their state and condition. In the appropriate cases, the following are, among others, aspects of the quality of goods: • Fitness for all the purposes for which goods of the kind in question are commonly supplied • Appearance or finish • Freedom from minor defects • Safety and durability. • The goods must fit the description given, e.g. a shirt described as blue with long sleeves must be exactly that. If it is green with short sleeves you are entitled to take the product back to the seller. The Trade Descriptions Act would also cover these items meaning the seller could be reported to the Consumer Protection or the Trading Standards Department. • Goods must be fit for the purpose as made known by the seller, e.g. if you purchase a waterproof jacket and it lets in the rain it is not fit for the purpose. You are entitled to return it to the shop. 44 FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland THE LAW AND ACTS OF PARLIAMENT • Consumers have a reasonable period of time to accept the goods or reject them. If you keep goods for a long time without informing the shop they are faulty, you will lose your right to reject them. Take faulty goods back immediately. Other points to remember • If you change your mind about a purchase you have made, you are not legally entitled to a refund. • Goods which are bought when you know there are minor defects such as a scratch on the door cannot then be returned for this reason. However, if another fault occurs you can still reject the goods. • The retailer is responsible for dealing with the complaint, not the manufacturer. • If you purchase a lawn mower in the January sales and don’t use it until April you are still entitled to return it, if faulty, even after this time, as it is not reasonable to expect you to use it in the winter. • Allowing repairs to be carried out does not mean you cannot reject goods at a later date if still faulty. • Other financial losses may be included in the claim such as postage costs or travel expenses. Or cost of replacement clothing, ruined due to dye running from a T-shirt described as being machine washable. • Often a trader will offer credit notes instead of a refund. This is only a piece of paper that promises to give goods in exchange for its value. • You do not have to accept a credit note for goods that are faulty, not fit for their purpose, or misdescribed. You are entitled to a full refund. Accept nothing less. • Proof of purchase doesn’t need to be a receipt, although this is often the simplest way of proving you bought the goods. Copies of a cheque, bank statement, Visa or Switch transaction are acceptable proof of purchase. • You are not entitled to replacement goods under the act, but you can accept a replacement if you wish. • If the seller is unwilling to exchange, replace or refund under the terms of the act, the consumer can take the case to the Trading Standards or Consumer Protection Department, and is therefore more likely to get satisfaction. FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland 45 THE LAW AND ACTS OF PARLIAMENT The Sale and Supply of Goods to Consumers Regulations 2002 (criminal law) Elaboration These regulations have enhanced consumer rights under the Sale and Supply of Goods Act 1994. Consumers have the legal right to choose repair, replacement, partial or full refund or compensation if a fault appears within 5 years. If consumers have a complaint: • Goods must be faulty at time of purchase • If the complaint is within 6 months, the onus is on the retailer to prove the goods were not faulty • If the complaint is after 6 months, the onus is on the consumer to prove the goods were faulty A minimum set of consumer rights on faulty goods in each EU country is provided for by Directive 1999/44/EC on the sale of consumer goods. One aim of the Directive is to encourage cross-border shopping, i.e. from one European country to another. The existing UK legislation, i.e. The Sale and Supply of Goods Act 1994, is retained but slightly amended. • Regulations apply to a range of transactions including sale and supply of goods, hire, and hire purchase. • Consumers are defined as people who are buying for purposes not related to their trade, business or profession. • The regulations do not apply to services in general. • They do not apply to second-hand goods bought at auction where the buyer was present. • Where goods are faulty the consumer can only obtain legal remedy against the retailer. • Consumers generally may not make a claim against the manufacturer. • Consumers may have additional rights under guarantees supplied with the goods or against credit card companies or finance houses if goods purchased by means of credit have a price over £100. A simple summary of the regulations • Consumers are entitled to goods of satisfactory quality, taking account of description, price and other relevant circumstances. • Consumers cannot expect a legal remedy in respect of: – fair wear and tear 46 FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland THE LAW AND ACTS OF PARLIAMENT – misuse or accidental damage – if they decide they no longer want the goods – if they are aware the goods have faults when they are bought or should have been evident on reasonable inspection. Remedies If a product was faulty at the time of sale and is returned to the retailer, the consumer is legally entitled to: • A full refund, if it is within reasonable time of sale (reasonable time is not defined in law but is often quite short). • A reasonable amount of compensation (or damages) for up to six years from the date of sale (five years after discovery of the problem in Scotland). • This does not mean goods must last six years. It is only the time limit for making a claim in respect of a fault that was present at the time of sale. Under new regulations consumers can choose to request instead: • A repair or replacement. • A partial or full refund (partial refund may be because the consumer has enjoyed some benefit from the goods before the problem appeared). • Generally the consumer has to prove the goods were faulty. This is the case if the consumer is requesting an immediate refund or compensation. Or if goods are returned more than six months after the date of sale. • If goods are returned in the first six months from date of sale and the consumer requests a repair, a replacement or thereafter a partial or full refund, it is assumed the goods are faulty and the consumer does not need to prove this. If the retailer does not agree, it is for him to prove the goods were satisfactory at time of sale. Other situations covered • Where installation by the retailer is not satisfactory, e.g. fitted kitchen wall units that fall off the wall. • Where installation instructions have serious shortcomings. • Generally where a good does not match public statements made about it by retailer, manufacturer, importer or producer. • Where commissioned goods have relevant failings, e.g. custom-made furniture that doesn’t fit. FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland 47 48 FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland GOVERNMENT AGENCIES AND PUBLIC BODIES SECTION 7 Roles and responsibilities of the Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) Elaboration An organisation set up by the advertising industry to monitor and control the content of advertisements in the press, on bill boards and in the cinema. It administers two codes: 1. The British Code of Advertising Practice 2. The British Code of Sales Promotion Practice The ASA uses a set of codes to judge if advertisements are acceptable. There is a set for TV commercials, a set for radio commercials and another set for advertisements, sales promotions and direct marketing in all other media. • The ASA was the independent self-regulatory body for supervising the content of non-broadcasting advertisements in the UK. However, after forty years successfully regulating non-broadcast marketing communications, the ASA became a one-stop shop for advertising complaints on 1 November 2004 when Ofcom contracted out to the ASA the regulation of broadcast advertising. (Ofcom is short for the Office of Communication, the name of the UK’s communications regulator.) • It is estimated that there are some 25 million advertisements published annually in the UK. The ASA spot-checks thousands of them as part of a rigorous monitoring programme. • The ASA also advises thousands of advertisers, agencies and publishers on how to avoid using misleading or offensive advertisements that may lead to complaints being made. The aim is avoidance, since complaints are not only costly but may involve adverse publicity and criticism of the industry. • The ASA operates on a levy charged on all advertisements. This levy is collected on behalf of the ASA by the Advertisements Board of Finance. This separation helps to ensure that the ASA maintains its independence. • The ASA has the power to investigate any complaint and compare the advertisement to the Code of Advertising Practice. The ASA rarely FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland 49 GOVERNMENT AGENCIES AND PUBLIC BODIES • • • • • • tells the advertiser to stop the advertisement immediately, as advertisers are allowed time to tell their side of the story. If the advert is found to be unacceptable under the rules of the code, then the advertiser will be told to drop the advertisement or to amend it. Failure to do so will entail the advertiser being suspended; or suffering the withdrawal of privileges, with the publishers of magazines and newspapers advised not to take their advert. Further refusal may entail the advertiser being referred to the Office of Fair Trading for refusing to abide by the code. Under the Control of Misleading Advertisements Regulations 1988 the organisation can be restrained from using the advertisement ever again. The ASA covers all advertisements. Food Standards Agency, Trading Standards and Environmental Health Officers cover claims made on packets. Other rules cover ads aimed at children and ads for alcohol, health products, beauty products, financial services, employment and business opportunities, and gambling. There are also rules governing the types of ads that can be shown around certain programmes. Complaints must be made in writing to the ASA with as much detail about the advert as possible. This can be done online on their website. The ASA administers the following codes: 1. The British Code of Advertising Practice • All advertising must be legal, decent, honest and truthful. • All descriptions, claims and comparisons must be true and evidence must be available to prove this. This is covered by the Trade Descriptions Act. • The description must not be misleading. • The product must not unfairly attack or discredit other products. • Advertisers must not misuse scientific or medical terms or imply such things as success in competitive sports as a result of eating a particular brand of breakfast cereal. • If goods or samples are described as ‘free’, they must be supplied at no cost to the recipient. 2. The British Code of Sales Promotion Practice • This code includes rules relating to competitions, the use of children in promotions, and the quality, value and suitability of goods. 50 FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland GOVERNMENT AGENCIES AND PUBLIC BODIES As well as the content of advertisements, three other aspects of the work of the ASA are important: • The regulation of the collection of people’s personal data by marketers and its use for marketing purposes. The direct marketing rules require marketers to tell consumers when their details are being collected for marketing purposes and to ensure that those details are accurate and not used if people have asked not to be contacted. • The regulation of sales promotions, such as special offers and promotions with prizes. The sales-promotion rules ensure that consumers aren’t unduly disappointed or treated unfairly by these types of short-term offers. • Helping to obtain goods or refunds for consumers who have had trouble getting goods they have bought through a newspaper or magazine ad, brochure or TV shopping channel. FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland 51 GOVERNMENT AGENCIES AND PUBLIC BODIES Roles and responsibilities of the British Standards Institute (BSI) Elaboration • An independent institution • Setting technical standards for the UK • The kitemark • Mandatory and voluntary certification The British Standards Institute group is divided into four divisions: • BSI British Standards is the national standards body for the UK and develops standards and standardisation solutions to meet the needs of business and society. It works with government, businesses and consumers. • British Standards’ trading arm also focuses on providing standards information and dynamic services that add value to business standards, best practice and management systems. • BSI Management Systems operates worldwide to provide organisations with independent third-party certification of their management systems. In addition, BSI Management Systems also offers a range of training services around management systems. • BSI Product Services is best known for the kitemark, the UK’s first product quality mark. BSI Product Services exists to help industry develop new and better products and to make sure they meet current and future laws and regulations, from commercial construction to motorcycle helmets, from mobile phones to fire extinguishers, from car headlights to medical devices. • BSI Inspectorate is a global commodity inspection and analysis company, which inspects metals and minerals, oil and petrochemicals, agricultural commodities and food safety. The kitemark • BSI Product Services also provides third-party certification, specifically for CE marking – a legal requirement for certain categories of products to be sold within the EU. • The kitemark is the world’s premier symbol of trust, integrity and quality. Manufacturers having this associated with their product or service will reassure customers that it has satisfied the most rigorous of quality processes and as such will not only be safer to use but will also be fit for the purpose for which it was designed. 52 FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland GOVERNMENT AGENCIES AND PUBLIC BODIES • A kitemark scheme can be developed using a publicly available specification. This specification can either be a BS, EN, ISO or a Trade Association specification. • In competitive markets, the kitemark is often used as a point of differentiation, reassuring customers that the company in question has an ongoing commitment to quality and safety. • Recent opinion polls showed that over 60 per cent of consumers would choose a product affixed with the BSI kitemark over a similarly priced unmarked product. • The kitemark is not easy to attain because of the high standards manufacturers must achieve to be awarded this prestigious mark. • It sets standards which products should reach, as well as testing products to see that they conform to that standard, as a result of which the product may be given the BSI kitemark. Mandatory certification • Some certification schemes are mandatory, depending on the intended market for the product or service, and if not applied correctly are subject to enforcement by law. For example, CE marking is mandatory if a product falls within the scope of one or more of the New Approach Directives and the intended market is somewhere in the European Economic Area (EEA). Voluntary certification • Some certification schemes are voluntary and are undertaken by manufacturers to demonstrate a product or service and gain a market advantage. • Standards are designed for voluntary use and do not impose any regulations. However, laws and regulations may refer to certain standards, making compliance with them compulsory. FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland 53 GOVERNMENT AGENCIES AND PUBLIC BODIES Roles and responsibilities of the Citizens’ Advice Bureau (CAB) Elaboration • Free and confidential advice and information on any subject • Trained volunteers and paid staff who all use a national CAB information system • Practical help, for example with drafting letters • Advice on contracts and statutory rights for employers and employees • Preparation of cases for tribunals and court • The CAB may offer free sessions with local solicitors or accountants • Advice on a wide range of legal issues. The Citizens’ Advice Bureau is an independent, local charity that is a member of Citizens’ Advice Scotland Bureaux. It provides advice and information to people in need in over 200 locations. The Scottish CAB service is united by two aims: • to ensure that individuals do not suffer through lack of knowledge of their rights and responsibilities, or of the services available to them, or through an inability to express their need effectively • to exercise a responsible influence on the development of social policies and services, both locally and nationally. CAB works on the following principles: 1. 2. 3. 54 A free service – The CAB provides information, advice and assistance (including representation) free of charge. It does not withhold its services from any clients seeking help. The service is advertised to the public as being free of charge to ensure that members of the public are not discouraged from taking advantage of the service for fear of being charged. Confidentiality – The CAB provides confidentiality to clients. Nothing learned from clients, including the fact of their visits, will be passed on to anyone outside the CAB service without the express permission of the client. Impartiality – The service provided by CAB offices is open to all, and is regardless of any opinion as to whether or not the client is deserving. FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland GOVERNMENT AGENCIES AND PUBLIC BODIES 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. Independence – The service provided by CAB offices is completely independent. No other individual will influence the decisionmaking process of the CAB. Accessibility – The CAB aims to make its services accessible to all by using premises that are centrally located, easy to enter, welcoming in appearance and open at times. Each CAB will recruit volunteers from the local community who are capable of gaining the confidence of CAB clients. Effectiveness – The CAB measures the effectiveness of its activities by the extent to which clients are helped. Community accountability – The Citizens’ Advice Bureau branch offices are accountable to the communities they serve. Client’s right to decide – The service recognises that those who come to the CAB have a right to decide whether or not to accept the advice and assistance offered to them. A voluntary service – The service operates on the principle that first and foremost it is a voluntary service of advice. Empowerment – The CAB seeks to assist clients to help themselves. The CAB helps clients to understand their situation, to decide which course of action to adopt, and to take steps themselves to tackle their problems. Information retrieval – The CAB service will use the evidence collected through their enquiries to influence the development of social policies and services. The services offered by CAB: • It gives free and confidential advice and information on any subject • It has trained volunteers and paid staff who all use a national CAB information system. They use this for any information they require to give to help their clients. • It will also give practical help, for example with drafting letters, filling in application or benefit forms, etc. • It will give advice on contracts and statutory rights for employers and employees. Anyone who feels they are not being treated fairly at work can get advice. • It will also undertake to prepare people for cases for tribunals and court; some CAB advisers are trained to undertake representation on behalf of the client • It may offer free sessions with local solicitors or accountants • It gives advice on a wide range of legal issues, including: – going to court – claiming compensation – entitlement to legal aid – complaints against solicitors and the police. FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland 55 GOVERNMENT AGENCIES AND PUBLIC BODIES Roles and responsibilities of the Office of Fair Trading (OFT) Elaboration • Taking action against traders • Encouraging trade organisations to improve their standards • Publishing leaflets • Asking for new laws to be made • Keeping a check on people in the credit business. The Office of Fair Trading gives advice to many different sectors of society • It gives advice to consumers on all aspects of trading, whether buying from a store, from the internet or at the door. Its advice could also be about services – financial, credit. It is particularly interested to hear complaints about products, services or companies. • The OFT has legal powers and can take action against companies for a variety of issues. Some of the areas it covers are: – competition, making sure that many companies have equal access to the market – consumer credit – misleading advertising – courts and legal services – distance selling – estate agents – unfair terms in contracts – and many more. • It offers information for businesses relating to business and markets. It gives details of mergers, market studies, Competition Act decisions and much more. • It publishes a variety of information and indeed an OFT magazine. The range of subjects is vast. • It also offers information for those who advise other people on trading matters – what people are entitled to and their rights, what is expected of businesses, etc. The OFT helps consumers by: • taking action against traders who consistently break the law. • encouraging trade organisations to improve their standards to their customers by agreeing to voluntary codes of practice for fair dealing. 56 FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland GOVERNMENT AGENCIES AND PUBLIC BODIES • publishing leaflets to help people understand their rights and responsibilities when buying goods or services. • asking for new laws to be made. • keeping a check on people in the credit business. Almost everyone involved in lending money to consumers has to have a special credit licence issued by the Office of Fair Trading. FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland 57 GOVERNMENT AGENCIES AND PUBLIC BODIES An awareness of the purpose of trade associations and codes of practice Elaboration Identification of two trade associations and their roles: • Independent Footwear Retailers’ Association (IFRA) • Mail Order Traders’ Association (MOTA). (These trade associations will be varied on a regular basis and SQA will inform centres a year in advance of any changes.) Codes of practice • Codes of practice have been set up for almost every industry and service available. • They are the rules that have to be followed by the members of a particular trade association. • They are intended to protect consumers and to provide a better service for them. • Traders will display the code of practice that is relevant to them in their store or on some documentation depending on what suits their business. • A trader is expected to follow the code of practice exactly. This ensures that the consumer has good service. • Every trader is encouraged to deal with complaints and problems. Trades often require a ‘system’ in place which makes it easy for the consumer to complain about the goods or services provided. This has always to be done in a polite and prompt manner. • The codes of practice are different for each industry or service. This gives the consumer the best possible deal. Hairdressing would operate by a different code to car maintenance, for example. • The code of practice should allow for a way that consumer and trader can settle all disputes. • A code of practice covers many aspects, from pre-shopping advice to staff-training guidance. Independent Footwear Retailers’ Association (IFRA) • The association is aimed at helping members of the public throughout the United Kingdom and the Republic of Ireland to seek quality, responsible and reliable shoe shops. • Members of IFRA agree to abide by a code of conduct and therefore you should be able to purchase their footwear and other allied products with absolute confidence. 58 FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland GOVERNMENT AGENCIES AND PUBLIC BODIES • Their aim is to raise the standards of professionalism within the retail footwear industry and ensure the public receive a good deal; and they undertake to resolve – as far as is possible – any problems that may arise between a member retailer and their customer. • IFRA was founded in 1943 as the National Shoe Retailers’ Council (NSRC) and they now have over 280 member companies representing in excess of 1,500 retail shops. • These are situated throughout England, Scotland, Wales, Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland, and the objectives of the association are to help their members to provide a sound, efficient and quality service to their customers. • They also endeavour to help their members to maintain and expand their profitability and the ranges of footwear they stock. • Members of IFRA differentiate themselves from other footwear retailers in that they are all committed to abide by a code of professional conduct. • They have all actively invested in their own company and have an interest, indeed an earnest desire, that their customers should be totally satisfied with the service they receive and the quality of product they have purchased. Mail Order Traders’ Association (MOTA) • Many large companies which sell through catalogues belong to MOTA and its members have to comply with a code of practice. • MOTA also run an independent arbitration scheme, which you can use if you cannot resolve the problem directly with the trader. There is a small charge for using the scheme, although this would be refunded if the arbitration finds in your favour. When consumers have problems with purchases the consumer can contact MOTA for arbitration, without losing their existing legal rights. • The MOTA cover all disputes with mail order. • If a complaint is not resolved satisfactorily after reference to the member company, the matter may be referred for conciliation to the Secretary of the Mail Order Traders’ Association. • If this fails the customer may seek resolution of the complaint under special low-cost arbitration arrangements administered by the Institute of Arbitrators. • Members of MOTA subscribe to a code of practice and are expected to abide to the code both by the letter and in spirit. All members are obliged to state their membership of the association within their mailorder catalogues. • They must also provide clear instructions on the handling of disputes; they must examine problems speedily and sympathetically, and they must take decisive action whenever they can. FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland 59 GOVERNMENT AGENCIES AND PUBLIC BODIES • Where arbitration has been necessary, decisions by the arbitrator are legally binding and enforceable through the courts. • Traders using the MOTA symbol must meet dates for delivery, or give warning of delays to the consumer. • Members of MOTA who sell to consumers must provide accurate descriptions and comprehensive information on their products. • Refunds to consumers for faulty goods must be given promptly by members of MOTA. • Surcharges or restrictions on goods sold by MOTA members must be identified for consumers. 60 FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland GOVERNMENT AGENCIES AND PUBLIC BODIES Role and responsibilities of the Trading Standards/Consumer Protection Department (TSD) Elaboration • Enforcing the Weights and Measures Act 1963 • Enforcing the Trade Descriptions Act 1968 • Enforcing the Consumer Protection Act 1987 • Consumer Direct • TSD exists to promote and protect the wellbeing of a modern vibrant economy and to safeguard the health, safety and environment of citizens by informing consumers, encouraging honest business and targeting rogue traders. • TSD plays an important role representing Trading Standards professionals, arguing the case with government, trade and industry, for adopting measures and standards to ensure fair trading and protection for consumers and honest traders alike. • TSD cooperates willingly with other bodies whose interests include consumer protection. It meets other relevant organisations on a regular basis. • Active in Consumer Education and Advice, TSD informs and educates both current and future consumers through events such as National Consumer Week and the Young Consumers of the Year Competition. • TSD is able to deal with and provide advice on a wide range of consumer complaints. It can advise consumers on legal rights associated with the Trade Descriptions Act, the Consumer Credit Act and the Consumer Protection Act. • TSD provides a website that provides a wide range of advice online on a range of different topics. Local offices will provide a service of free and impartial advice. • The department looks after the interests of local consumers and traders by enforcing the fair trading laws and investigating consumer complaints. • Inspectors are employed to check factories and market stalls for inaccurate measurements; and to check factories and market stalls for fake textile items. • They will also check advertisements to make sure they are legal and to make sure they do not make untrue statements or claims. • Some trading standards departments run consumer advice centres so that the consumer can go in to ask questions or seek advice. FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland 61 GOVERNMENT AGENCIES AND PUBLIC BODIES Consumer Direct • Consumer Direct is a telephone and online consumer advice service, supported by the Department of Trade and Industry. • It provides clear, practical, impartial advice to help sort out problems and disagreements that may occur with suppliers of goods or services. From overcharging to faulty goods, from dodgy workmanship to reporting dishonest traders and scams, the advisers offer solutions for individual problems. • The advice and information Consumer Direct gives is free. People can call as many times as they need to. Telephone calls are charged for via the 0845 number. What does Consumer Direct do? Consumer Direct can: • Help sort out problems or disagreements with a trader. • Help people complain to a trader. • Help make complaints about traders that a person believes has done something wrong. • Tell people what their rights are as a consumer. • Provide pre-shopping advice before you buy goods or services. • Provide general advice on how to avoid unscrupulous traders or ‘cowboys’. • Explain consumer-related issues such as warranties, buying on credit, internet shopping, refunds and replacements, etc. • Provide advice on avoiding trading scams and rip-offs (people can also report any scams they have experienced). • Direct people to a regulator or other organisation if it is better suited to assist them. • Refer a person’s case to their local Trading Standards Authority or similar agency if they are better suited to assist. 62 FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland REFERENCES References Bartle, Alison and O’Connor, Bernie, Textiles Technology, Causeway Press Limited, 1998 Hannelore, Eberle et al., Clothing Technology, Verlag Europa-Lehrmittel, 1999 King, Hazel, Trends in Textile Technology: Fashion, Heinemann, 2001 King, Hazel, Trends in Textiles Technology: The Clothing Industry, Heinemann, 2001 Messenger, Julie and Wilson, Helen, Textiles Technology: Create, Heinemann, 2003 Websites www.vuitton.com www.asa.org.uk www.cap.org.uk www.aslins.com www.bsi-global.com www.bsonline.techindex.co.uk www.consumereducation.co.uk www.dti.gov.uk www.firesafe.org.uk www.oft.gov.uk www.tradingstandards.gov.uk www.euroconsumer.org.uk www.tsi.org.uk www.consumerdirect.gov.uk FASHION AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY: CONSUMER STUDIES (H) © Copyright Learning and Teaching Scotland 63