Layout and Curating
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Design the show with the space in mind and with a unified idea. Spend time in the gallery beforehand to get a feeling for the space and project your work arrangement.
You may want to consider bringing in samples of your work during off hours to get a better sense of scale.
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Use the floor plan to pre-plan your exhibition design. Consult the Director if you plan to install work requiring special attention.
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Consult with as many trusted people as possible, especially advisor(s), peers, faculty and the Director to provide second opinions.
 Consider consulting the online Snelgrove “Archives” to see past show layouts for what has been done by other artists
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Give yourself plenty of time to curate the show before installing. Pre-plan and start early when it’s your turn in the Gallery. Before installing 2D work, set out the work against the walls of your area and take time to explore placement and arrangement options. Consider the horizontal space between the works.
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Edit pieces out of the show if it seems crowded. You want to put forward your best work and create a cohesive show, not show everything you have ever made.
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Consider how gallery-goers will move around the space and arrange works to correspond with this.
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The Snelgrove Gallery has a lot of architectural angles. Avoid hanging works too close to corners where there are strange shadows.
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If you plan on including new media elements, which require a darker setting, consider how that will affect the rest of your show.
Gallery Floor Plan
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http://www.usask.ca/snelgrove/forms/
General tips for installing
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
Gallery height is generally 56 inches. This ensures a consistent mid-point for wall work (see diagram).
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Ensure wall work is level, a uniform height, and position title cards at consistent locations.
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When painting walls: o Use only the provided “Gallery White” paint on the walls o If you opt to paint accent walls in colours other than “Gallery White,” you must provide your own primer when taking the down show. o Paint must be dry in time for the next group to setup at 2:00pm on the
Saturday after your show is finished.
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When using adhesives/tapes: o Avoid packing tape and duct tape. The adhesive is difficult to remove from the walls and floor. o 3M or Scotch double-sided tape tabs are very useful when hanging paper works to wall if you do not want to use pins, nails, or clips. Other double-sided tapes may be difficult to remove and may damage your work. o Do not hang works with painter’s tape. It is not sticky enough to keep work up. o If you choose to butt two moveable walls up against each other and want a
“seamless” wall look, using masking tape on the join between the two walls and painting overtop with “Gallery White” paint is a good solution. o If you elect to use Velcro to hang your work, attach the wall piece with staples rather than with the adhesive. Velcro strips are non-removable and this will save hours of repair work.
Installing 2D Works
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The tool cabinet is kept in the Gallery office. It can be wheeled out and used as a work surface in the Gallery. You will find a supply of nails and other hardware and some tools in the cabinet.
Hammers, levels, tape measures and other basics can be found on the pegboard in the office.
Please check in advance if you require hanging clips, fastening or power tools, which may be stored in various office drawers or cabinets.
Picture Hanging / Hardware Options
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A plus B minus C
For 2D wall pieces, measure height of work and apply the formula A + B - C. If hanging directly on metal frame, C = 0.
(see illustration on left).
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Measure vertically from floor along one side of frame to calculated height of fastener and mark with pencil. Then, using a level mark off the distance between the hangers, or if hanging directly on metal frame, somewhat less than the total width.
Hanging directly on frame …
Drive nails at a very slight downward angle and leave about 15 mm exposed. If picture does not hang perfectly level, adjustment can often be made by tapping one nail or the other very gently downward.
Hanging with wire …
Divide wire into approximate thirds and lift to taut position as shown. Measure from this point to top of frame to obtain C. Always hang on two nails to prevent picture from tilting. Distance between nails should be about one third the width of the picture.
Hanging with hinged hangers …
Install hangers near the top of the work (10cm) ….
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Applying formula (A + B - C), measure vertically along one side of frame to calculate height of fastener. Using a long level with measuring scale mark off the distance between the hangers.
Drive nails as described above, hang and level. Larger works may require two people to hang.
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J-hook Hardware
Note: The fastener height is where a nail is driven to support the hinged hanger (top of hinged loop) on either side of the work. If you are using picture hanger hardware (J-hook) the top of the loop will rest on the ‘J’, which is lower than the nail spot. You will drive a small nail to hold the hanger Jhook on the wall. Make sure the bottom of the ‘J’ ends up as your fastener height rather than the nail head.
Thanks to Kim Ennis who models in these demonstration photographs.
Installing New Media Works
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The Gallery Technician must be present when installing projectors o Note the angles of the walls when planning on using projected visuals. Some walls do not allow for a squared image. o Consider the lighting in the gallery. You may want to cover the windows on the gallery doors to obtain optimal light for your projection.
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Consider electrical cords.
Installing a Title Wall, Vinyl, and Didactics (labels)
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Ensure that title cards and didactics are at a consistent location and height in relation to the artwork.
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When writing or drawing on walls: o Be careful of the drawing medium you use. Some permanent markers and paint markers will show even after several coats of paint. Consider testing your medium first and painting over to see how the paint will cover.
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Vinyl: o Use masking tape to position your vinyl in the appropriate location. o Make sure vinyl is level using the black border printed around the text as a guide. o Keeping a strip of masking tape at the top of your vinyl to hold it in place on the wall, peel back part of the adhesive backing. o Using a credit card or spatula, apply pressure to the front of vinyl in a scraping/rubbing motion. Continue peeling away backing and working your way across vinyl.
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o When the backing is completely off and your vinyl is adhered to the wall, carefully peel away the front adhesive layer, making sure your lettering sticks to the wall. o Do not leave the border on the wall, it is merely a guide for application.
All exhibitors must sign the Exhibition Agreement” (provided by Director) and adhere to the cleanup schedule outlined below.
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The office and kitchen area must be clean and restored by 2:00pm the morning after the reception.
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The walls must be restored, gallery cleaned, and work removed so the gallery space can ready for the next exhibitor by 2:00 pm Saturday (paint must be dry at this time).
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Use the dry mop, broom, dustpan and wet mop available in the office to assist floor cleanup.
Use pliers to remove nails rather than a hammer. This causes less damage. Sand lightly over nail or screw holes to bring the edges flush to the wall surface. Stubborn pencil and other marks often can be removed by light sanding as well.
Erase all pencil marks made while hanging work. Some pencil marks are removed best by wiping with a damp cloth or scrubber. Wash the wall where work was hung if necessary (finger marks, etc.). Fill holes with filler using plastic (yellow) scraper. Do not use metal scrapers.
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Use the fill economically, leaving no excess around hole. Excess can be removed with scraper and the holes filled completely by scraping ninety degrees to initial fill stroke.
Spot touch-ups with paint may be all you need to do if wall damage is limited to nail holes. This can be done with a small sponge brush. Dab the paint to emulate roller ripple, rather than using brush strokes. The wet side of the paint-can lid makes a good palette. For more extensive paint touch-ups, a small roller can be used, either with a paint tray or by dipping in the paint and rolling excess on the paint can lid. For those big jobs (covering drawings done directly on the wall or temporary coloured sections) obviously a large roller and tray is best.
The plinths can be wiped down and touched up with paint as well.
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