I am fine with my report being published online: YES ANR:297133 Name: Doreen Verbakel E-mail: d.w.m.verbakel@tilburguniversity.edu Exchange semester: Fall 2015 Academic year: 3 Host University: University of the Free State Country: South Africa C’est L’Afrique I GENERAL INFORMATION ABOUT THE SCHOOL I have studied in Bloemfontein, the judicial capital of South Africa. It sounded like a big place, but there was literally nothing. It was not a very lively city, but it sure was interesting, and looking back it added an extra value to my exchange. Furthermore, it is located in the centre of the country which gives you a better possibility to travel to different parts of the country without losing days of traveling. There is not really a specific city centre, but the university was close to all the big shopping smalls. The campus was big enough, so that you had to drive a car, or walk 20 minutes from one side to another. The campus had beautiful spots with fountains and gardens, but you could notice it was built a long time ago, as you could see the colonial influences in the architecture. There was a big area at the campus where you could get food and drinks, although the food was mostly fastfood or not really healthy. In the shopping malls there were many restaurants and ordering a venison steak is a must! Going out was all right. There is no such thing as a street where all the bars are, they are spread all over town. It sometimes feels as if you are living in the 80’s, but I did have the best time of my life. This was mainly because of the friends I made there, who were the best part of my exchange! They have taken me to places where I would have never been without South African friends. At the campus there was a gym and a swimming pool. The latter I used a lot, but the first was a bit aged and more for bulky rugby guys instead of tiny girls like me. The thing that differed most from Tilburg was the fact that you had to go everywhere by cab or car. Mainly, because of safety issues and the distances you have to travel to things. During the day it is safe to walk, but at night I would highly recommend to take a taxi if you do not want to get robbed. There are many different students differing from Phd, to bachelor students. The studies also differ from medicine to agricultural studies, the same goes for the level of difficulty of courses. One moment it is really hard but without any homework, and the next it is like high school with a lot of tiny assignments that keep you occupied forever. This depends fully on your professor and the course you choose. There weren’t many exchange students and most of them were dutch or from Belgium. A few from France and Italy, but this was not a shame as we had a lot of South African friends. I do have the feeling I got engaged in the culture, both black and white. (Do notice racism there is still a thing). The campus is mixed, but you will never see a white person talk to a black person. I apologise for this division I make, but I am using the words the people there used for each other to clarify what the relations were like during my time there. II PRACTICAL INFORMATION I have received the pre-arrrival information from the host university, very late, if not at all. First of all the contract between the universities was expired and needed to be renewed, which caused a lot of troubles for me, one was that it made me miss my flight to South Africa. The pre-arrival information was basically an email that said I would get a pick up at the bus station. Nothing so far on my courses or housing, that would be arranged there. There were many difficulties with the international office from the UFS, which even led to the exchange coordinator of the UFS being fired. The 80 euro student visa took ages to arrange, and I would highly recommend to start on time. The embassy in The Hague is very unreasonable and unorganized. If you hand in all the required documents you will mostly likely be send back because you are missing a stamp or a signature somewhere, where it was not asked for. Basically be prepared to cry. I had to go back myself 4 times, what even led to me missing my flight. Other exchange students experienced similar chaotic events. My arrival in South Africa was horrible. I would recommend booking a straight flight to Bloemfontein instead of to Johannesburg and then taking a bus. Save yourself the stress. My pick up at the busstation never happened. The exchange coordinator mailed me a phone number that I should call if I would arrive at the busstation so that I would get a pick up. Unfortunately he forgot a number, so I had to take a taxi to the university. This was amazingly scary as I had been travelling for 2 days, I was tired, it was at night, and there were only creepy people around the busstation, and I also did not know if I could trust the taxi’s there. So on a lucky guess, I did arrive at the university. There the security had no idea I was coming, and there was no message what so ever in my inbox that said what to do next. So the security brought me to the campus hotel where I stayed in the weekend. Only Monday I got a reply from the exchange coordinator that he arranged a for me, but by that time I took my own initiative and found accommodation outside campus. That Monday I had a meeting with the exchange coordinator, who said that he was very disappointed in me for not calling, which ofcourse was impossible with the wrong number. When I told him this he would not believe me, and he told other students that I was lying. This is one of the many reasons why he also got fired afterwards, because this was obviously very unprofessional. Besides that there was nothing much arranged. When I asked him when I could pick my courses, he fetched a student from outside and told him that he should show me how to register etc. This boy also didn’t seem to enthusiastic. That Saturday we did get a city trip which was nice to help me meet other exchange students, and to help me find accommodation outside campus. This was the point where I made my first friends and I am still happy I joined this, even though I was not allowed to go in the first place, because of my late arrival. So to summarize, the university was very unprepared, but 99% was because of a faulty staff member. After all the incidents he caused the university was very determined to find a new capable person for his function. I was supposed to be put in an all girls residence on campus, but as I mentioned before I found my own accommodation outside campus. This was the best descicion I have ever made. The residences where crappy buildings, with old furniture, and you had to share your room with someone else as well. The accommodation I came to stay at was a student house at Koos van der Walt Avenue and was simply amazing. The house might have been old and without heating (note most places in South Africa don’t have this) but I had my own big room, we had a swimming pool, I was surrounded by both exchange students and South African students, we had a cleaning lady, a living room and a big garden. I felt secure as there was a big automatic gate as well. I would recommend every student to go to one of the two Koos van der Walt houses, as you have a lot more freedom and you can stay comfortably. In the weekend we were able to have poolparties and go out, while the people who stayed at campus were restricted with a lot of things. Also at the end of the semester some of the people who stayed in the residences had to find a few weeks of extra accommodation as you could not stay on campus in the holidays. Koos van der Walt was a little bit more expensive but still very cheap in comparison with dutch rental costs. It was approximately 200-250 euros. The campus residences where 170-220 euros. But in my opinion the latter is not worth it. I financed my exchange with my study finance and a loan I could take from my grandpa. I also still worked as a student assistant at Tilburg University from a distance. The living expenses where cheaper than the Netherlands, especially going out for dinner. Sometimes I would even think that was cheaper than buying your stuff at the grocery shop, as vegetables and cheese are very expensive there. For a proper restaurant meal including drinks and a desert you will probably pay about 12-18 euros. And in a fast food restaurant not more than 4 euros for the biggest menu. Meat was very cheap in South Africa. For a 1kg impala or ostrich steak you would probably pay 5 euros. A simple pack of chicken filet would usually cost less than a euro, and the meat was also better than the meat in dutch butcheries. The braai’s (BBQ’s) where then also my favourite part of the weekend. Every weekend you could eat warthog, kudu, impala, ostrich, or venison for 3 euros. Going out as well was very cheap. The only big expenses where taxi rides, that where still cheap, but since we used them a lot I spend more on them than I calculated before, and the shopping in the supermarkets. But most money I spend on travelling, which is absolutely worth it. I have seen many parts of the country. The cheapest way to travel is to rent your own car and to travel with other students to split the cost. A short outline of what I probably spend: - Housing: 250 (including wifi) a month - Food + going out: 250 (I went out for dinner a lot) a month - Transport 150 (Taxi rides, plus travelling expenses) a month - Books: 120 in total - Leasure: I am not sure, but definitely over 2000 euros, but then again I travelled a lot and I have done expensive activities as skydiving, which immediately will cost you a lot of money. The semester started in July and ended the end of November, which left me a lot of room to travel afterwards. There was a short mid term break for one week in the middle. And the last weeks of the semester where seen as the examination period. The university does not host any social activities, but sometimes students organize some things. There is also no such thing a s a student association for international students. I did have a lot of contact with a lot local students, and many of them became great friends. We went to their rugby games, went to their families, to their farms, and travelled together. As there were not many exchange students we were in close contact with each other and saw each other almost every day. The places I travelled to are: - Douglas (farm trip, twice) - Johannesburg - Krugerpark - St. Lucia - Durban (twice) - Panorama route (many small villages) - Swaziland - Drakensbergen - St. Peter maritzburg - Cape town (4 times) - Garden route (many small villages in the south, a must see!) - Plettenberg - Port Elizabeth - Stormsriver - Oudtshoorn - And a few other villages, I can’t think of right now I wanted to go to Mozambique and Namibia, but unfortunately I ran out of money. I did not really experience culture shock as I was prepared on what it would be like. I have been to India a year before, and after that I am not quickly surprised anymore. Nonetheless, there were things that shocked me that I did not expect. My host culture is hard to describe as South Africa is a mixture of cultures. You have Afrikaans, Zulu, Xhosa, English, and about 8 other different cultures in one country. I spend most my time in Afrikaans culture, which reminded me of an American, Texas in the 80’s like culture. People were extremely friendly and loved spending time together especially with new people. They loved eating, drinking and just hanging out together. Being friends with someone implied seeing them at least 4 or 5 times a week. A big difference between Dutch culture and South African culture is efficiency. Whereas Dutch people are very punctiual and are expected to work hard and as fast as possible, South Africans are always late and very inefficient. When walking in the mall you could see 3 people trying to clean one square meter of floor. One person mopping it and two trying to dry it by waving ‘’watch out the floor is wet’’ signs. Another thing that I did not expect to be as bad is the racism. Ofcourse apartheid is not such a long time ago, so I expected resentment towards eachother, but I did not expect it to be this bad sometimes. You really could see different gradations of racism amongst people. The older and the closer to farmer communities, the more racist people were. This did taught me that the way someone is raised will determine your values in the future, as discussions regarding this subject were useless. At the same time people were very friendly and laid back even though they were sometimes poor, which made me realize how unnecessary stressful the Dutch culture is. Money does not make you happy, but friends do, is what the South African culture taught me. I learned a lot about the history of the country because of visiting many museums and historical areas, but I would love to back to dig a little deeper into this subject. Furthermore, I have travelled to many different places as mentioned before. All of the places felt like going to a different country. The language, culture, and food could differ a lot. Therefore, I would like to go back to visit more other villages, or to spend more time in these places to get to know the culture more intimately.As there were no language problems with the local people as almost everbody spoke English, and with a bit of practice I could understand Afrikaans, it made the country perfect to meet local people who could help you learn more about the different places. Personally, I learned a lot from my exchange. Not only academically, but mainly culturally. South Africa has such a rich history which helps you understand human interrelations on a different level. I learned to live more in the moment, and to enjoy the people around me more. The people showed me that realization of your happiness helps you to enjoy it more. This will also help me in the future as I believe you can work more productively if you are mentally healthy as well. And you can only be mentally healthy if you are happy and calm. The only thing that I would do differently on my exchange is being more active in chasing the documents I needed before my departure so that I would not have lost so much money on a missed flight, because I wished I could have used that money for more travelling. It is hard to establish what was my best and worst experience. The worst was maybe the loss of unnecessary money, but all the amazing experiences made up for it. Amongst my best expriences are first of all, the friends I made. They are truly the best part of my exchange and made it wonderful. Furthermore the travelling was amazing. I did sharkcage diving, skydiving, sandboarding, safaris, whale watching, penguin watching, dolphin watching, jumped of a stadion, went surfing, climbed a mountain, I did so many things that were out of my comfort zone. I will never forget the feeling of accomplishment I had after doing these things. And what made it extra special is that I could share it with life long friends. III ACADEMIC INFORMATION Classes are offered in both English and Afrikaans. I followed all my classes in English. I took all kinds of political and philosophical courses. Amongst them international law and organizations, political ideology, international economy, and African philosophy. I would recommend political ideology and African philosophy, they are very hard, but very much worth it. The teachers are inspiring and in the latter there is a lot of room for discussion. The level of academics differ per course as I mentioned before. Some are very hard and require a lot of insight and self study, others feel more like high school with a bunch of useless homework assignments. Make sure to take 3rd year courses if you want to have something challenging. Mostly the teaching is theoretical, and is given in lectures. The relation between students and teachers is quite formal, but as being from ‘’overseas’’as they called it, you get a little bit of extra attention by everyone. This also means that I was able to have quite informal relations with some interesting teachers, who would invite me for a chat in their office just because they were interested in my opinions. I am very happy with my academic achievements during the semester, although some courses were difficult I did manage to learn a lot there as all the courses taught me something new and valuable. The exams were not very lengthy, usually an hour or big exams 2 hours. Mostly questions were hard, vague and essay like, but some were very easy high school like. Sometimes you needed to now everything by heart instead of just understanding it. It was easy to access the library, it opened very early and closed relatively late. Unfortunately there weren’t many computers, but that was not a problem as I always brought my own laptop. Course Name and experience Prerequisites Exam Major at TiU BA Politicl Ideology, difficult BA International Law and organizations, easy BA Polticial economy, intermediate none Written Humanities Approved as (minor/ elective / extra) Elective none written Humanities elctive none written Humanities elective I would definitely recommend going on exchange to Bloemfontein. Mainly, because it will be an experience different than other exchanges. You will meet a lot of locals, travel a lot and have many moments that stay with you forever. The UFS is a nice university, but make sure to find an office campus residence. Make sure to start on time with your visa application as the office is horrible. When you get in South Africa forget everything you learned in the Netherlands, just enjoy, don’t stress, everything will always work out. This country is full of surprises and things you don’t expect. A friend from france always said: ‘’ Aaaaaa, c’est la vie, c’est l’Afrique’’. Simply, just enjoy the moment, if something goes wrong, it already went wrong, no need to stress about it. People are very eager to help you out with any problems you might experience. Do not only hang out with exchange students as the local people are the most interesting people you will meet there, and I promise you, you will make friends for life. I am determined to go back in the coming 5 years, as I haven’t grown tired of this country, and I wasn’t ready to go home yet. It simply was the best time of my life so far. Contact details: Can the International Relations Office share your e-mail address with prospective exchange students, so that other students could contact you for more information? YES Pictures say more than a thousand words: