BATTLEFIELD TOURS: FIELD NOTES
Compiled by Don Bogle, Brightspark, Revised, February, 2011
Table of Contents………………………………………………………………page 1
Introduction & Rationale ……………………………………………………..…… 2
Canada and the Wars ………………………………………………….. …….… 2-3
Commonwealth War Graves Commission, Victoria Cross …………………… 3-4
Battle of the Somme, 1916 ……………………………………………... ….……4-5
Beaumont Hamel ……………………………………………………………..….. 5-6
Thiepval ………………………………………………………………………….… 6-7
Peronne & Artois Battlefields ………………………………………………….… .. 7
Belgium: Brussels & Waterloo ………………………………………………….…8-9
Ieper (Ypres) ……………………………………………………………….………9-10
Flanders Fields Museum & Essex Farm Cemetery …………………….…….10-11
Langemark German Cemetery & St. Julien Memorial ………………….……11-12
Tyne Cot British Cemetery, Passchendaele, & Sanctuary Wood …………. 12-13
Menin Gate, Hooge Crater & St. Symphorien Cemeteries ..…………………13-14
Battle of Vimy Ridge ……………………………………………………………. 14-19
Canadian Vimy Memorial ………………………………………………………. 19-21
Cabaret Rouge, Neuville St. Vaast, and French National Cemeteries ……. ….21
Raid on Dieppe, Canadian Cemetery & Normandy ..…………………….… 21-24
Bayeux, Juno Beach & Juno Beach Centre …………………………….……. 24-28
Beny-sur-Mer Canadian Cemetery & Pegasus Bridge ……………………… 28-29
Caen ……………………………………………………….………………………29-30
Falaise ………………………………………………………………………….… 30-33
Bretteville Canadian Cemetery & Abbaye D’Ardenne………………..……... 33-34
Le Mesnil Patry, Arromanches & Longues sur Mer ………………………..... 34-35
Omaha Beach & Pointe du Hoc ………………………………………..…… .. 35-37
La Cambe German Cemetery & Wimereux Communal Cemetery ………...37-38.
Holland: Arnhem & Groesbeek Canadian Cemeteries ………………..…. 38-39
France & Paris Attractions ………………………………………………………40-45
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BATTLEFIELD TOUR: FIELD NOTES
Compiled by Don Bogle, Brightspark,
A TUI Travel Company
Revised, September, 2010
INTRODUCTION & RATIONALE
Iain Munro, Canada and the World Wars (Wiley, 1979): ―In the 1960’s, the lyrics of
a popular folk song said, ―I ain’t gonna study war no more.‖ Since the beginning of
recorded time, human beings have desired and sought after peace. And yet when
peace has been achieved, it has seldom lasted for very long. Since 3600 B.C., the
world has known only about 300 years of peace. During this period, historians have
recorded 14,531 wars, both large and small. These wars have killed countless
millions of people. As our civilizations have ―progressed,‖ people have killed one
another with increasing speed and efficiency.‖
One of the significant developments in Canada’s history has been our increased
involvement in world affairs, and our subsequent maturation to autonomy and
nationhood. This growth to nationhood during the twentieth century was spurred
largely by active participation in World Wars I & II.
This specialized tour is an opportunity to go beyond the pages of Canadian
history textbooks and the classroom to see first-hand some of the places associated
with the two global conflicts of the twentieth century. These pages are intended to be
an introduction for the European tour.
CANADA AND THE WARS
Canadian infantrymen were on the Western Front in January, 1915, and in April,
the 1st Canadian Division fought in the Second Battle of Ypres, where they were
subjected to the Germans’ first use of gas. When the 2 nd Division arrived in France, the
Canadian Corps was formed, later expanded by the addition of the 3 rd Division.
From April to August, 1916 the corps fought in the defence of Ypres, until it
moved to fight in the Battle of the Somme. On April 9, 1917, it captured Vimy Ridge which
had withstood all attacks for two years. Though this victory cost the Canadian Corps
10,000 casualties, it was certainly a great military success, and ensured that Vimy Ridge
would later be chosen as the site of Canada’s National Memorial.
Canadian soldiers met with success in August 1917, taking Hill 70, north of Arras.
After being transferred to the Ypres front, the Canadians took the previously impregnable
objective of Passchendaele on November 6, 1917, suffering 15,000 casualties in the
process. In March 1918, cavalry and motorized machine-gun units of the Canadian Corps
helped hold the line at Amiens when the Germans launched their last big offensive.
On September 2, 1918, seven Canadians earned the Victoria Cross in
exceptionally fierce fighting. The corps forced the Germans back to the Hindenburg Line
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which was broken on September 27. On October 9, they took Cambrai, and were in the
area of Mons at the time of the Armistice, November 11, 1918.
Canadians also excelled in aerial combat. In providing many members of the
Royal Flying Corps, the Royal Naval Air Service, and later the Royal Air Force, Canada
made a great contribution in this field. More than 23,000 airmen served with British forces
and over 1,500 died. The Commonwealth’s highest scoring airman was a Canadian – Lt.
Col. W. A. (―Billy‖) Bishop, VC, with 72 victories.
Canadian naval participation was limited in World War I, as its newly formed navy
possessed only two cruisers. However, many thousands went to serve with the Royal
Navy. Fleets of Canadian trawlers and small craft carried out mine-sweeping and antisubmarine operations in coastal waters.
In the initial stages of World War II, Canada’s role was primarily one of defence
for the British Isles. On August 19, 1942, troops of the Canadian 2 nd Division formed the
bulk of the Dieppe Raid. In addition to the casualties there, 500 Canadians lost their lives
when they landed in Sicily as part of the Eighth Army on July 10, 1943.
On September 3, 1943, a combined Canadian, American, and British force made
the first full-scale invasion of mainland Europe, attacking the ―toe‖ of Italy and reaching
Naples on October 1. The battle northwards through Italy continued to the war’s end and
ultimately cost the lives of nearly 6,000 Canadians.
Landing in Normandy on June 6, 1944 as part of the Allied invasion force, the
Canadians played an important part in the battle to take Caen. They then advanced along
the French seacoast to the Pas-de-Calais and took Dieppe on September 1. Thereafter,
some Canadian units played a prominent part in the liberation of the Netherlands, while
others went on to participate in the Battle of Germany. From D-Day to V-E Day, 12,500
Canadians died.
During the Second World War, the Royal Canadian Navy grew to a strength of
nearly 100,000 personnel and nearly 400 vessels. Their main duty was to act as convoy
escorts across the Atlantic and in the Mediterranean. They also supported amphibious
landings in Sicily, Italy, and Normandy. In all, the RCN lost nearly 2,000 sailors.
Although a major task of the Royal Canadian Air Force based at home was the
hunting of U-boats in the North Atlantic, its most important area of operations was
Europe, where 48 Canadian squadrons served. About 17,000 Canadian airmen died, the
great majority while serving Bomber Command.
About 111,000 Canadians died in World Wars I and II (66,000 and 45,000
respectively); some were interred in Canada, but the vast majority lie buried abroad.
The Commonwealth War Graves Commission
Throughout the world there are 2,500 cemeteries and almost 200 war memorials
built and maintained by The Commonwealth War Graves Commission to honour more
than 1,700,000 Commonwealth citizens who lost their lives during World Wars I and II.
There are over 600 war graves cemeteries in Belgium, many of them in or near
the Ypres Salient. Unlike the American policy where 60% of dead American soldiers were
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returned to the United States for burial, almost all Commonwealth armed forces’ deaths
resulted in burial near the place where they died.
Most CWGC cemeteries have three distinctive features: (a) ―Cross of Sacrifice‖
with its inset bronze-coloured sword; (b) ―Stone of Remembrance‖ with the inscription –
―Their Name Liveth for Ever More.‖; (c) uniform-sized headstones which bear, if possible,
the rank, name, regimental number, regimental crest, unit, age, date of death and
religious emblem. Victoria Cross recipients have the V.C. engraved as well. Nearly
100,000 names of soldiers with no known graves are recorded on places such as: The
Menin Gate, Tyne Cot Cemetery, Vimy Memorial, and Beaumont Hamel Memorial.
http://www.cwgc.org/default.asp
THE VICTORIA CROSS & OTHER MILITARY HONOURS
Canada and other Commonwealth nations have a series of military awards
bestowed on military personnel for actions of bravery, heroism, or service in particular
campaigns. Among these are: The Victoria Cross, Distinguished Service Order,
Distinguished Service Cross, Distinguished Flying Cross, Distinguished Conduct Medal,
and the Military Medal, in addition to specific campaigns or theatres of war medals.
The most prestigious of all such awards is The Victoria Cross,
instituted during the reign of Queen Victoria (1837-1901). It is awarded:
―For most conspicuous bravery or some daring or pre-eminent act of
valour or self-sacrifice or extreme devotion to duty in the presence of
the enemy.‖ Since its inception, it has been awarded only 1,352 times
(three recipients have won the Victoria Cross twice) – with 94 V. C.’s
being awarded to Canadians. (70 in World War I & 16 in World War II).
The last living Canadian VC recipient was Ernest ―Smokey‖ Smith who
died in 2005.
http://members.shaw.ca/kcic1/vcwinners.html
THE BATTLE OF THE SOMME, 1916
The Battle of the Somme – a name forever etched into history as the site of one of
the bloodiest battle campaigns of World War I – raged south of Arras, near Albert, from
July through November, 1916, leaving a million dead. During those five futile months, the
Allied advance was only 8 kms.
The 1916 Allied offensive on the Western Front was planned as an equal
Commonwealth-French effort, to take place on the Somme – until then a relatively quiet
sector – where the two armies joined. But, with the French distracted by a major German
attack on Verdun to the south, a greater share of the burden fell to the Commonwealth
force than was originally intended.
Fourteen divisions, entirely British, with the exception of the Newfoundland
Regiment, were to launch he offensive on a 23 kms. front; the French would go forward
on a 13 kms. front to the south. With superiority over the Germans an estimated seven to
one, the Allies were supremely confident. The effort was to be enormous in scale, and, if
all went as planned, the initial strike would be decisive and the breakthrough immediate.
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But July 1, 1916, the first day of the Battle of the Somme,
was to prove the most catastrophic day’s fighting in the history of
the British army. Losses were appalling: of the 120,000 British
soldiers who fought that day, almost half became casualties, over
19,000 of them dead. Sixty percent of the officers involved were
killed. The Newfoundlanders suffered 70% casualties in just thirty minutes. This was a
shockingly high price to pay for the modest gains made at the southern end of the British
front. In most places the attack faltered and failed altogether.
With no breakthrough, the Battle of the Somme quickly spiraled into the grim,
protracted struggle that typified so much of the fighting on the Western Front. When the
fighting was finally called to a halt in mid-November after a last effort that finally took
Beaumont Hamel (a July 1 objective), the Commonwealth had suffered almost 420,000
casualties, 125,000 of them dead. The French to the south had lost more than 200,000.
The Germans lost about 600,000. In places the line had been pushed forward 11-13 kms;
elsewhere it had not moved at all.
The Commonwealth War Graves Commission has its greatest commitment in
France and concentrated into the area covered by the Somme battlefields alone some
150,000 Commonwealth servicemen (50,000 of them unidentified) lie buried in 250
military and 150 civilian cemeteries. Six memorials to the missing commemorate by name
more than 100,000 whose graves are not known.
http://www.firstworldwar.com/battles/somme.htm
BEAUMONT HAMEL NEWFOUNDLAND MEMORIAL PARK
Located about 140 kms. north of Paris’ Charles de Gaulle airport, (nine kilometres
north of the town of Albert) this park covers 84 acres and was purchased by the then
Government of Newfoundland as a memorial to the soldiers and sailors of Newfoundland.
There are a number of memorials and cemeteries in the park, as well as preserved
trench lines which have been maintained in their original shape.
The Beaumont-Hamel Newfoundland Memorial was dedicated to the
memory of those Newfoundlanders who served during the First World War
and specifically commemorates those who died and who have no known
grave. The noble bronze caribou is the emblem of the Royal Newfoundland
Regiment, and stands on a mound, surrounded by rock and shrubs native to
Newfoundland, proudly facing in the direction of the former foe, and
overlooking the trenches and ground across which the battalion advanced on
July 1, 1916.
Inscribed on three bronze tablets located at the base of the monument are the
814 names of those members of the Royal Newfoundland Regiment, the Newfoundland
Royal Naval Reserve and the Mercantile Marine who died during the First World War and
who have no known grave.
On July 1, 1916, 798 all ranks deployed into the trenches (excluding 33 others
detached to Mortar and Machine Gun Companies) and 22 officers and about 758 other
ranks were sent forward against the enemy. Of these, all the officers and slightly under
658 other ranks became casualties. Only around 110 remained unscathed. The following
5
day, only 68 soldiers were able to answer the roll call. The Battalion's War Diary on July
7, 1916, states that on July 1, the overall casualties for the Battalion were 310 all ranks
killed, died of wounds or missing believed killed, and that 374 all ranks were wounded, a
total of 684. Some of the wounded subsequently died. Afterward, the Divisional
Commander was to write of the Newfoundlanders effort: "It was a magnificent display of
trained and disciplined valour, and its assault failed of success because dead men can
advance no further."
On site there is a Visitors' Centre which explains the historical and social
circumstances of Newfoundland at the beginning of the 20th century, traces the history of
the Royal Newfoundland Regiment and some of its personalities. A Memorial room within
the Centre houses a copy of the Newfoundland Book of Remembrance, along with a
bronze plaque listing the Battle Honours won by the Royal Newfoundland Regiment and
paying tribute to its fallen.
The site contains three cemeteries maintained by the Commonwealth War Graves
Commission; that of Y Ravine, Hawthorn Ridge No. 2 and the unusual mass burial site of
Hunter's Cemetery. Near the entrance is situated a Memorial to the 29th British Division.
Of particular note, overlooking Y Ravine, is the Memorial to the 51st (Highland) Scottish
Division. Many of the Newfoundlanders who died on July 1, 1916, are buried in one of
these cemeteries.
http://www.vac-acc.gc.ca/remembers
OCEAN VILLAS TEA ROOMS
As you enter the village of Auchonvillers, there is a welcoming guest house and
tea room where modest lunches can be purchased. However, the
main attractions here are: (1) an original World War I trench at the
rear; (2) a well-preserved cellar that was used as dressing station,
with many names from 1916 scratched on the walls; (3) many
interesting personal items and artifacts that have been collected by
the owner, Avril Williams.
http://www.oceanvillas-tearooms.com/
THIEPVAL MEMORIAL
Opened on 31 July 1932 by the Prince of Wales, the
Thiepval memorial was and remains the largest British war
memorial in the world. The memorial contains the names of 73,357
British and South African men who have no known grave and who
fell on the Somme between July 1916 and 20 March 1918. The
memorial stands 50 metres high and dominates the surrounding
area, The building of the memorial created a degree of controversy at the time among
former soldiers for its cost and scale, being commonly perceived as a waste of money
better spent on the veterans themselves.
On 1 July 1916, supported by a French attack to the south, thirteen divisions of
Commonwealth forces launched an offensive on a line from north of Gommecourt to
Maricourt. Despite a preliminary bombardment lasting seven days, the German defences
were barely touched and the attack met unexpectedly fierce resistance. Losses were
6
catastrophic and with only minimal advances on the southern flank, the initial attack was
a failure. In the following weeks, huge resources of manpower and equipment were
deployed in an attempt to exploit the modest successes of the first day. However, the
German Army resisted tenaciously and repeated attacks and counter attacks meant a
major battle for every village, copse and farmhouse gained. At the end of September,
Thiepval was finally captured. The village had been an original objective of 1 July .
The accompanying cemetery at the rear of the memorial unusually contains both
British and French burials - 300 of each - to commemorate the joint Anglo-French
Somme action, French burials on the left and British on the right.
Until the opening of the Centre in 2004 there was nothing at Thiepval to tell
visitors, what had happened on the Somme in 1916. All that they would have seen was a
magnificent monument. As simply as possible in three languages, the Visitor Centre has
been designed to correct this, so that visitors may now leave with a greater
understanding of the events of 90 years ago and remember the sacrifice of their
Grandfathers and the historical context into which it fits. There has been no attempt at
"interpretation with hindsight". The context also includes the events of 1918 when a
fearful reverse was turned into the hundred days advance to the Armistice.
The Thiepval Memorial is not only a memorial to the UK and South African Missing, but
also an Anglo-French battle memorial to the 1916 battles of the Somme. Due regard has
been given to the activities of the gallant French allies on the southern part of the line.
As was the intention from the outset, the concept of the Visitor Centre was not to
add yet another memorial to this already much visited and hallowed site, but to provide a
discreet building where visitors could not only find historical information about Thiepval
and what it represents, but also rest, reflect and find refreshment and associated facilities
in a suitable setting.
http://www.thiepval.org.uk/news.htm
PERONNE
The town of Peronne, 23 kms. southeast of Albert, was almost entirely razed in
1916. It’s now home to an outstanding World War I museum, Historial de la Grande
Guerre. Integrated into a ruined brick castle, this spacious modern
museum has a thought-provoking variety of exhibits. The exhibition
halls chart the years before the war, the war years – and in
particular 1916 – and the post-war years, from the British, French,
and German points of view, both civilian and military. There are
many audio-visual presentations with some rare contemporary
footage.
http://www.historial.org/us/home_b.htm
THE ARTOIS BATTLEFIELDS
The most poignant memories of World War I are evoked in the war cemeteries in
the countryside between Lens and Arras, all of which are superbly cared for. Of
particular interest to Canadians is Vimy Ridge, about 8 kms. northeast of Arras. This was
the site of Canada’s greatest World War I victory in April, 1917, a decisive turning point in
the conflict. With its woods and lush grass, it has become a popular picnic spot – yet the
preserved trenches and rugged terrain are harsh reminders of this battle. The simple,
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soaring white-stone Canadian War Memorial, adorned with female figures in mournful
lament, is inscribed with the names of the 11,285 Canadians who fell here.
(NOTE: read The Stone Carvers by Jane Urquhart Victory at Vimy by Ted Barris or Vimy
by Pierre Berton).
http://battlefields1418.50megs.com/f2tourism.htm
BELGIUM
Belgium is a wonderful European country that is often overlooked by tourists.
There are just over 5 million Dutch-speaking Flemings and almost as many Frenchspeaking Walloons in a country about the same size as the state of Vermont. More
precisely, there are 10.3 million Belgian citizens (55% Flemish; 33% Walloons; 10%
foreign-born). The country is 75% Roman Catholic; a constitutional monarchy – King
Albert II.
http://www.visitbelgium.com/
During the Second World War, Belgium was the scene of major fighting by the First
Canadian Army from September to November 1944. The Canadians were given the
important tasks of clearing coastal areas in the north of France and capturing the
launching sites of German rockets to put an end to their attacks on southern England.
The First Canadian Army also played a leading role in opening the Scheldt estuary (tidal
river), gateway to the Belgian port of Antwerp. Access to this port was essential to
maintain supply lines to the Allied armies as they continued their push toward Germany
to defeat Adolf Hitler's forces and free Western Europe from four years of Nazi
occupation which had begun in April 1940.
Under the command of General Henry Duncan Graham (Harry) Crerar, the First
Canadian Army was international in character. It was comprised of two Corps – the 1st
British Corps and the 2nd Canadian Corps. The 2nd Canadian Corps included the 1st
Polish Armoured Division as well as three Canadian Divisions – the 2nd and 3rd
Canadian Infantry Divisions and the 4th Canadian Armoured Division. Belgian and Dutch
units also served in the First Canadian Army in the initial advance, but were transferred to
the Second British Army as it began operations in Belgium and moved on to the
Netherlands. The First Canadian Army in northwestern Europe during the final phases of
the war was a powerful force, the largest army that had ever been under the control of a
Canadian general. The strength of this army ranged from approximately 105,000 to
175,000 Canadian soldiers to anywhere from 200,000 to over 450,000 when including the
soldiers from other nations.
More than 800 Canadian soldiers died in battle in Belgium. Most died in
September and October of 1944 while liberating the region of Flanders, which included
the cities of Furnes, La Panne, Nieuport, Ostend, Knocke-Heist, Bruges, Eecloo, and the
northern suburbs of Antwerp. In addition, more than 7,600 Canadian soldiers died during
the Liberation of the Netherlands, many while helping free the Scheldt estuary and
opening up the port of Antwerp for shipping.
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YPRES (IEPER)
This is Ypres of World War I fame and shame – ―Wipers‖ to the Allies in the
trenches, Ieper to the people who live there. The city was literally wiped off the face of the
earth during the war. Today’s town, (population 35,000) 125 kms. west of Brussels, is a
painstaking reconstruction which was not completed until after World War II..
Since the first century B.C., when the Belgian people were conquered by the
Romans, the Flanders region has been invaded by successive armies and has suffered
from the ravages of war. In spite of this, Ypres managed to establish itself as a financially
and culturally rich city in the 12th century. By the 13th century Ypres had gained the
status of an independent city-state.
Being only 60 kms. inland from the Belgian coast, Ypres was the hub of many
important trade routes consisting of roads, rivers and canals leading to the Netherlands,
France and to the English Channel. Consequently it grew into an important market place
for the region. Easy access to the coast meant that the people of
the city established links with the wool trade in England. The city
became a very important centre for the cloth trade. Guilds and
master guilds were founded. The Lakenhalle (Cloth Hall) was
begun in the centre of Ypres in 1200. It took 100 years to
complete. In 1260 the population of the city had grown to 40,000.
Originally the town had been protected by earthworks. As
the town grew more wealthy the fortifications were modified to keep out prospective
invaders. The oldest part of the ramparts still surviving is near the Rijselpoort (Lille Gate)
which dates from 1385. Major work was carried out by Sebastien Le Prestre, Seigneur de
Vauban (1633-1707), the famous French military engineer, at the end of the 17th century .
From 1914-1918 the city became the focus of fighting between the Imperial
German Armies of Emperor Wilhelm II and the Allied Armies of Belgium, France and
Great Britain. The First Battle of Ypres began in mid October 1914. It was the first of
four long battles fighting over possession of this ancient city.
The first serious damage to the buildings occurred during
the First Battle of Ypres (19 October - 22 November 1914).
German artillery fired onto the city from its positions in the northeast, east and south-east. On 22 November 1914 the Cloth Hall
(Lakenhalle) was set on fire by an incendiary device.
A few months later, in the spring of 1915, an intensive
German bombardment was started up on the town. This was carried out by long range,
heavy German artillery, which included a huge 42cm howitzer. This gun was nicknamed
'Dicke Bertha' (big Bertha) by the German Army and consequently became known as 'Big
Bertha' to the British Army. This bombardment was the prelude to the launch of a
German gas attack on the Allied front line in the Ypres Salient on 22nd April 1915. It was
the beginning of the Second Battle of Ypres and the beginning of the total destruction of
a beautiful Flemish city.
9
The Third Battle of Ypres (often referred to simply as Passchendaele because
much of the fighting centred around this town north of Ypres) – July to Nov., 1917,
witnessed one of the bloodiest battles in world history (see following chart)
Casualties
British (inc. Can.)
French
German
Victoria Crosses
First Ypres
(Oct.- Nov. 1914)
58,000
50, 000
130,000
11
Second Ypres
(April - May, 1915)
60,000
10,000
35,000
14
Third Ypres
(July - Nov., 1917)
300,000
8,500
260,000
59
By the end of the war in 1918 there was no building left untouched. The city was
demolished. After the Armistice and the end of the fighting the local population began to
return to their homes and businesses from places of refuge in neighbouring parts of
Flanders or France. Every building the locals had known was shattered and in ruins;
houses, shops, municipal buildings, schools, the cathedral, churches, and the Lakenhalle
(Cloth Hall) were gone.
It was suggested that the city might be left in ruins as a memorial. A new city
could be built nearby. But there was a pressing need to accommodate the returning
inhabitants. From 1919 there was also an influx of visitors to Ypres, because the city
became the focus for many pilgrims. They were travelling to the battlefields of Flanders to
visit the graves of their loved ones lost in the fighting. Some believed they might even find
a relative or friend still alive who had been reported as 'missing in action'. Ex-soldiers
returned to the old Ypres Salient to see the ground they had fought over. Winston
Churchill commented: ―a place more sacred to the British race does not exist.‖ The town
was largely rebuilt and occupied once again by 1923, although it took about 20 years to
complete the Cloth Hall, now home of the In Flanders Fields Museum.
Some 44 million shells were fired over this stretch of the Western Front in the two
World Wars, and a fair number failed to explode. Flemish farmers still turn up bombs and
ordnance every month, and the bomb disposal experts have to be called in. The poison
gas canisters cause special concern. Human remains from World War I are still found on
a regular basis..
http://www.greatwar.co.uk/westfront/ypsalient/ypresindex.htm
.
IN FLANDERS FIELDS MUSEUM
Located inside the Cloth Hall, this outstanding museum
shows the slow death of the town during the war and its effects on
soldiers, citizens, and buildings. The bayonets, guns, uniforms,
helmets, medals and shells are all here, as well as maps of the
battlefields and cemeteries and photographs.
http://www.inflandersfields.be/default2.htm
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ESSEX FARM MILITARY CEMETERY (BELGIUM)
The cemetery is about 3 kms. north of Ieper. It is one of the most visited in the
Ypres Salient as it was where Lt. Col. John McCrae wrote ―In Flanders Fields‖, while
working as a doctor in an advanced dressing station. On May 2, 1915, one of McCrae’s
patients and a friend, Lt. Alexis Helmer, was virtually blown to pieces by a direct hit by a
German artillery shell. McCrae was touched by the last words in Helmer’s diary, ―It has
quieted a little and I shall try to get a good sleep.‖ The following day, McCrae was moved
to write his famous poem. Helmer’s grave was lost in the subsequent fighting over the
ground, and he is commemorated on the Menin Gate.
John McCrae was deeply affected by the fighting and losses in
France. He became bitter and disillusioned.
He felt he should have made greater sacrifices, and insisted on
living in a tent through the year, like his comrades at the front,
rather than in the officers' huts. When this affected his health in
mid-winter he had to be ordered into warmer surroundings. To
many he gave the impression that he felt he should still be with his old artillery brigade.
After the battle of Ypres he was never again the optimistic man with the infectious smile.
(Prescott. In Flanders Fields: The Story of John McCrae, p. 110)
During the summer of 1917, John McCrae was troubled by severe asthma attacks
and occasional bouts of bronchitis. He became very ill in January 1918 and diagnosed his
condition as pneumonia. He was moved to Number 14 British General Hospital for
Officers where he continued to grow weak.
On January 28, after an illness of five days, he died of pneumonia and meningitis.
The day he fell ill, he learned he had been appointed consulting physician to the First
British Army, the first Canadian so honoured.
John McCrae was buried with full military honours in Wimereux Cemetery, just
north of Boulogne, not far from the fields of Flanders. Bonfire led the procession,
McCrae's riding boots reversed in the stirrups. His death was met with great grief among
his friends and contemporaries
Essex Farm Cemetery has 1,199 graves or commemorations (9 Canadians),
including one of the youngest killed in the war – Valentine Joe Strudwick, age 15,(Plot I,
Row U, Grave 8) and a British Victoria Cross winner, Thomas Barratt, (I,Z,8). On 27
July 1917 north of Ypres, Belgium, Private Barratt, as a scout to patrol,
worked his way towards the enemy under continuous fire from hostile
snipers, which he stalked and killed. Later his patrol was similarly held
up and again he disposed of the snipers. When a party of the enemy
were endeavouring to outflank the patrol on their withdrawal, Private
Barratt volunteered to cover the withdrawal which he did, his accurate
shooting causing many casualties and preventing the enemy advance.
After safely regaining our lines this gallant soldier was killed by a shell.
http://www.webmatters.net/cwgc/essex_farm.htm
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LANGEMARK GERMAN CEMETERY (BELGIUM)
This cemetery is located 6 kms. north-east of Ypres, and is the only
German cemetery in the Salient. There are 44,292 German soldiers from
World War I buried here, of whom only 19,378 have been identified. There
is a mass grave of 25,000 soldiers surrounded by shrubbery. The small
stone crosses are symbolic and do not mark burials. Flat stones mark
graves of four, six, or eight soldiers. The Belgians were understandably
more grudging of their land for the burial of the enemy than they were for
the Allies.
http://www.greatwar.co.uk/westfront/ypsalient/cemeteries/langemark.htm
ST. JULIEN MEMORIAL
“The Brooding Soldier‖ is extremely moving and dramatic in its
simplicity. This 13 metres high statue of a Canadian soldier with bowed
head and hands resting on arms reversed was carved from a single
shaft of granite. A British journalist wrote the following in 1964 for The
Evening Standard: ―Surely the memorial for all soldiers of all wars? For
the bowed head and shoulders with reversed arms emerging from the
top of the tall stone column has the gravity and strength of grief coming
from the full knowledge of old wrongs done to men by men. It mourns;
but it mourns for all mankind …. The genius of Man rises out of the
stone, and once again our tears fall upon the battlefield.‖
The designer, Chapman Clemsha, was wounded during the war. The monument
commemorates the 18,000 Canadian soldiers who withstood the first German gas attacks
on April 22-24, 1915; 2,000 were killed. The cedars are trimmed to represent shells.
―Vancouver Corner‖ after the war was a ―featureless waste of dead men, mules, tanks,
and shell-holes linked together with five feet of water in each.‖
http://www.webmatters.net/belgium/ww1_stjuliaan_can.htm
TYNE COT CEMETERY (BELGIUM)
Located near Passchendaele, this cemetery with 11,908 graves, 70%
being identified, is the best known of more than 170 military cemeteries in
the area, and is the largest British military cemetery in the world. It is aweinspiring, more austere than many other British cemeteries that dot the
countryside. A memorial wall also lists 34,927 soldiers, killed from August,
1917 until November, 1918 with no known graves.
Among the graves (LVIII – D – 26) is James P. Robertson, a
Canadian, who won the Victoria Cross for gallantry in Nov., 1917. Citation: An
extract from "The London Gazette" No. 30471, dated 8th Jan., 1918, records the
following:-"For most conspicuous bravery and outstanding devotion to duty in attack.
When his platoon was held up by uncut wire and a machine gun causing many
casualties, Pte. Robertson dashed to an opening on the flank, rushed the machine gun
and, after a desperate struggle with the crew, killed four and then turned the gun on the
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remainder, who, overcome by the fierceness of his onslaught, were
running towards their own lines. His gallant work enabled the platoon to
advance. He inflicted many more casualties among the enemy, and then
carrying the captured machine gun, he led his platoon to the final
objective. He there selected an excellent position and got the gun into
action, firing on the retreating enemy who by this time were quite
demoralised by the fire brought to bear on them. During the consolidation,
Pte. Robertson's most determined use of the machine gun kept down the
fire of the enemy snipers; his courage and his coolness cheered his
comrades and inspired them to the finest efforts. Later, when two of our
snipers were badly wounded in front of our trench, he went out and
carried one of them in under very severe fire. He was killed just as he
returned with the second man.
http://www.webmatters.net/cwgc/tyne_cot.htm
PASSCHENDAELE NEW BRITISH CEMETERY (BELGIUM)
The village of Passchendaele is about twelve kilometres north-east of Ypres and
the cemetery is one kilometre to the north-west of the village. The immediate area was,
from October, 1914 to the end of 1918, one of the most fought over in the war. Almost all
in the cemetery died in the autumn of 1917. There are 1,000 British and 650 Canadians,
among others
http://www.kingandempire.com/pdale_overview.html
SANCTUARY WOOD MUSEUM & HILL 62
After World War I, the Schier family who owned the woods,
had the foresight to understand that their battered piece of
ground would one day be of historical interest. They enclosed the
trench lines and dugouts, the splintered trees and the debris of
war with a fence, and added a small museum with items
salvaged from the battlefields. The nearby cemetery contains 102
British soldiers and 41 Canadians..
http://www.ww1battlefields.co.uk/flanders/sanctuary_wood.html
MENIN GATE
Just before 8:00 p.m. each night the police halt the traffic through the Menin Gate.
The buglers then march into the middle of the road under the great arch, facing he spires
of the Cloth hall, and play ―The Last Post.‖ In its very simplicity, this is one of the most
moving experiences imaginable. It has been going on every night since 1929, with the
exception of the four year Nazi occupation during World War II.
This monument is intended as a fitting memorial to those
soldiers without a grave – ―He is not missing – He is here.‖ The
massive vaulted gate is made of French limestone, weights
20,000 tons, and is 135 ft. long, 104 ft. wide, and 80 ft. high. On
its many panels are inscribed the 54,900 names of those who
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were killed between the outbreak of war on Aug. 4, 1914 and Aug. 15, 1917. The
remaining 34,888 names are inscribed at Tyne Cot Cemetery.
http://www.greatwar.co.uk/westfront/ypsalient/meningate/meningate.htm
BRUGES
Bruges is often called ―The Venice of the North‖ as this splendid city is one of Belgium’s
crown jewels. In no other European city is there more of a feeling and look of medieval times as in
this city close to the North Sea.
Today's Bruges has a population of about 45.000 people (the old center) or 120.000
people (center together with the suburbs). These numbers clearly show that Bruges is not a tiny
miniature city. It ranks, even today, among the important cities of
Belgium. It is also the capital of the Belgian province of West-Flanders.
A lot of people take day-trips from Brussels to Bruges, but there is to
much to see here to fill only 1 day. The best way to visit Bruges is to
spend at least one night in one of the many beautiful and cozy hotels.
Later in the evening, when all the tourists have gone, Bruges finds back
its charm and quiet of old times. When one is lucky with the weather, a
stroll through the tiny medieval streets can be an enchanting experience. Bruges is always
beautiful, in the summertime as well as in the wintertime. Lucky visitors will never forget the city
after they have seen it on a snowy December or January day.
Bruges is unique, in the sense that here the town authorities have done the utmost to
preserve the medieval-looking image of the city. Of course, not every stone in Bruges has come to
us straight from the Middle Ages. The 19th century neo-gothic style is more present than one
should think. Because of these 19th century renovations, some critics have put Bruges down as a
'fake' medieval city. Nevertheless, the combination of old, not so old and new fascinates everyone
who first sets foot in Bruges.
CHURCH OF OUR LADY
It took 2 centuries (from the 13th to the 15th) to build this church, whose soaring 118m
(387-ft.) spire can be seen from miles around Bruges. Among the many art treasures here is a
beautiful Carrara marble sculpture of the Madonna and Child by Michelangelo. This
statue, made in 1504, was the only one of Michelangelo's works to leave Italy in his
lifetime and is today one of the few that can be seen outside Italy. It was bought by
a Bruges merchant, Jan van Mouskroen, and donated to the church in 1506.
The church also holds a painting of the Crucifixion by Anthony Van Dyck,
and the impressive side-by-side bronze tomb sculptures of the duke of Burgundy,
Charles the Bold, who died in 1477, and his daughter, Mary of Burgundy, who died
at age 25 after falling from her horse in 1482. A windowpane under the tombs allows
you to view the 13th- and 14th-century graves of priests.
GROENINGE MUSEUM
The Groeninge ranks among Belgium's leading traditional museums of fine arts, with a
collection that covers paintings in the Low Countries from the 15th to the 20th centuries. The
Gallery of Flemish Primitives holds some 30 works -- many of which are far from primitive -- by
painters such as Jan van Eyck (there's a portrait of his wife, Margerita van Eyck), Rogier van der
Weyden, Hieronymus Bosch (The Last Judgment), and Hans Memling. Works by Magritte and
Delvaux are also on display
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GHENT
Ghent is the fourth largest city of Belgium with about 250.000 inhabitants. It is not as big
as Antwerp but bigger than Bruges. It is also less famous among tourists than the often praised
Bruges.
However, for some people Ghent is the real diamond of Flanders and
Belgium. In a unique way, Ghent has managed to preserve its
medieval power while keeping up with the times. The city center alone
is a showcase of medieval Flemish wealth and commercial success.
Modern Ghent certainly cannot be overlooked in Belgium. The city has
an important harbor, thanks to the canal Ghent-Terneuzen which
allows sea-going vessels to bring their products to the city and its
industrial hinterland. Because of the central location in the country, the 'Flanders Technology' fair
can regularly be organized. The Belgian State University (RUG = Rijksuniversiteit Gent) continues
to grow in importance. The presence of so many young people and students has turned Ghent
into an important Flemish cultural center.
Ghent is also the flower city of Belgium. Flower growers from the region around Ghent sell their
beautiful begonia's and azalea's all over the world. Every 5 years the successful 'Gentse Floraliën"
( Ghent Flower Show) attracts thousands to the city.The tourist will not have eyes enough to
admire the awesome architectural wealth , which offers a splendid combination of impressiveness
and idyllic charm of the proud and (in former times) often rebellious city of Ghent.
Lace: There are two kinds of Belgian lace: exquisite handmade pieces and machine-made stuff.
Machine-made lace is not necessarily bad -- indeed some of it is very good -- but this is the form
used to mass produce pieces of indifferent quality to meet the demand for souvenirs. The highestquality lace is handmade. Brussels, Bruges, and Ghent are the main, but far from the only, points
of sale.
Pralines: The Swiss might argue the point, but the plain truth is that Belgian handmade
chocolates, filled with various fresh-cream flavors, are the finest in the universe. Those devilish
little creations -- handmade Belgian pralines -- are so addictive they should be sold with a
government health warning attached. You can't go wrong if you buy chocolates made by Wittamer,
Nihoul, Leonidas, or Neuhaus, available from specialist stores around Belgium.
ADEGEM CANADIAN WAR CEMETERY
In the last week of September 1944, the Allies held the city of
Antwerp, but the Germans held both shores of the Scheldt estuary, so
that the port of Antwerp could not be used. The task of clearing the
southern shore of the estuary was allotted to the 3rd Canadian Division,
aided by the 4th Canadian Armoured Division and the 52nd Division.
Their operations lasted from October until the beginning of November
1944; by 3 November the Germans had been cleared from the northwest corner of Belgium and the south shore of the Scheldt was free. There had been fierce
fighting for two weeks for the crossing of the Leopold Canal.
The majority of the men buried at Adegem died during the operations for the
clearance of the south bank of the Scheldt, but many Canadians who lost their lives
elsewhere in Belgium were also brought here for burial. A number of isolated graves from
various communal cemeteries and churchyards in Belgium have also been brought into
this cemetery since the end of the war. The cemetery now contains 1,119
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Commonwealth burials of the Second World War and one unidentified burial of the First
World War. There are also 33 Polish and two French burials.
More than 42,000 Canadians gave their lives in the war. Canada and the world recognize
the sacrifices and achievements of all Canadians, like those who fought in the Battle of the
Scheldt, who accomplished so much and left a lasting legacy of peace. Most of the Canadians
who died in the Battle of the Scheldt are buried at two Commonwealth War Cemeteries in the
region. Adegem Canadian War Cemetery is in the northwest corner of Belgium, not far from the
Dutch frontier. It contains the graves of 848 Canadians, most of whom lost their lives during the
bitter struggle to clear the Breskens pocket on the south bank of the Scheldt.
Bergen-op-Zoom Canadian War Cemetery is located in southwest Holland. It contains the
graves of 968 Canadians, most of whom fell fighting to open the sea approaches to Antwerp and
make that port available to Allied shipping.
The Canada War Museum
The museum shows us World War II, the way people lived it in Flanders. It takes you back to
the heart of that time through the many realistic scenes. You can experience the period of
mobilisation, occupation and liberation. That liberation of Flanders by the Canadian troops is
represented in a most expressive way: a monumental panorama of the Battle from the Leopold
Canal and various dioramas who reconstruct the military actions. Most of the collection objects are
loaned out by local collectors. This exceptional museum, unique in Europe, was founded in honour
to all those who were affected by this terrible wrinkle in history.
The advance of the Canadians towards the Ostend-Bruges-Ghent line had coincided with
the Gestapo recognition of Maurice Van Landschoot as a Resistance leader and he disappeared
into the underground systems he had used for allied aircrews and other escapees, emerging only
after the Canadians had cleared the area. He had been, he considered, very lucky, and this luck,
he felt, was owed entirely to the Canadians, especially to those who had died liberating his
country. Accordingly, on his deathbed in 1987, concerned that there was still too little tribute paid
by the Flemish to their liberators, he asked his son, Gilbert, to do something to commemorate the
sacrifice of the Canadians that would help educate future generations about the terror and misery
of the Nazi occupation.
To honour his promise to his father, Gilbert Van Landschoot built the Canada Museum in
the gardens of his house at Adegem, and on the land around he created three new gardens in
traditional English, French and Japanese styles. In the Museum stained glass windows record the
arms of the Belgian and Canadian provinces together with arms of all the Belgian and Dutch
towns freed by the Canadians. Other stained glass windows feature the badges and formation
patches of all the Canadian, British and Polish units attached to the 1st Canadian Corps.
The exhibits in the Museum include everything a researcher might seek, from armoured
vehicles down to matchboxes, from uniforms to machineguns, from radios to daggers. Some of
these have been donated, but most are on loan, for as the Museum is not state-funded it is not
easy to buy desirable items.
The Battle of the Scheldt – October-November, 1944
The failure to take the bridge at Arnhem in September 1944 lost
an opportunity to shorten the war and made the capture of the port at
Antwerp essential for logistics, but before this could be used the enemy
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dug in on both sides of the Schelde had to be removed. This task was given to the 1st Canadian
Corps. Their four divisions on the left wing of the allied army swept across the flat Flanders plain,
traversed the canals against fierce opposition, crossed into Dutch territory, cleared the southern
bank of the Schelde, and then invaded the flooded peninsular on the northern side. The task of
liberating the Scheldt was entrusted to the First Canadian Army, under the command of
Lieutenant-General Guy Simonds (in place of General Crerar, who had returned to England
because of severe illness).
The unique geography of the area made the First Canadian Army's challenge even more
daunting. North of the estuary lay South Beveland. Beyond South Beveland lay the island of
Walcheren, which had been fortified into a powerful German stronghold. The south bank of the
estuary was flat floodlands enclosed by dykes, known as "polder country". It was below sea level
and well-suited to defence.
The plan for opening the estuary involved four main operations. The first was to clear the
area north of Antwerp and secure access to South Beveland. The second was to clear the
Breskens "pocket" behind the Leopold Canal, and the third was the capture of South Beveland.
The final phase would be the capture of Walcheren Island. On October 2, the 2nd Canadian
Infantry Division began its advance north of Antwerp, while the 3rd Canadian Infantry Division,
supported by the 4th Canadian Armoured Division, began the assault over the Leopold Canal. In
both areas the fighting was fierce. The well-entrenched German forces made it difficult for the
Allied forces to advance.
The 2nd Canadian Infantry Division, advancing north to close the eastern end of South
Beveland, made good progress against the enemy paratroopers who were barring the way.
Casualties were heavy as Canadian troops attacked over open flooded ground, but by October 16
they had seized the town of Woensdrecht at the entrance to South Beveland.
At this point, the challenge and opportunity was clear to all and Field-Marshal Bernard
Montgomery, overall commander of the First Canadian Army and Second British Army, issued a
directive making the opening of the Scheldt estuary the top priority. To the east, the British Second
Army attacked westwards to clear the Netherlands south of the Maas River. This helped secure
the Scheldt region from an outside counter-attack.
Meanwhile, Lieutenant-General Simonds concentrated on the area north of South
Beveland. The 4th Canadian Armoured Division, which had been engaged at the Leopold Canal,
moved north of the Scheldt and drove hard for the town of Bergen-op-Zoom. By October 24, the
entrance to South Beveland was breached and secured and the 2nd Canadian Division began the
advance into South Beveland, assisted by an amphibious landing by the 52nd British Division. By
October 31, the area was secured by the Allies.
Fighting along the Scheldt's southern shore was equally fierce. Here, the 3rd Canadian
Infantry Division encountered tenacious German opposition as it fought to cross the Leopold
Canal and clear the Breskens pocket behind the canal. The attack began on October 6 against
fierce opposition, and for three days a slender bridgehead was in constant danger of elimination.
Finally, on October 9, an amphibious assault broke the enemy's hold on the canal, and the
bridgehead was deepened. Troops and tanks crossed the canal and the Germans withdrew into
concrete bunkers along the coast. More fighting followed, but by November 3 the south shore of
the Scheldt was secured.
On October 24, the third phase of the battle to free the Scheldt began with the 2nd
Canadian Infantry Division moving against South Beveland. The Canadians hoped to advance
rapidly, by-passing opposition and seizing bridgeheads over the Beveland Canal, but they too
were slowed by mines, mud and strong enemy defences.
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An amphibious attack was made across the West Scheldt by the 52nd (Lowland) Division
to get in behind the German's Beveland Canal defensive positions. Thus this formidable defence
was outflanked and the 6th Canadian Infantry Brigade began a frontal attack in assault boats. The
engineers were able to bridge the canal on the main road. With the canal line gone, the German
defence crumbled and South Beveland was cleared.
This left the island of Walcheren as the last obstacle to securing the port of Antwerp for
Allied use. However, the Germans had fortified their position on the island and the only land
approach was the long narrow causeway from South Beveland. To make matters worse, the flats
that surrounded this causeway were too saturated with sea water for movement on foot but with
too little water for an assault in storm boats.
The island was attacked from three directions: across the causeway from the east, across
the Scheldt from the south, and from the sea. To hamper German defence, the island's dykes
were breached by heavy Royal Air Force bombing, which flooded the central area and allowed the
use of amphibious vehicles.
The Canadians attacked the causeway on October 31 and, after a costly struggle,
established a foothold. Then, in conjunction with the waterborne attacks, the 52nd British Division
continued the advance. On November 6, the island's capital Middelburg was secured, and by
November 8 all enemy opposition ended.
Meanwhile, the 4th Canadian Armoured Division had pushed eastward past Bergen-opZoom to St. Philipsland where it sank several German vessels in Zijpe harbour.
Thus, with the approaches to Antwerp free and the country up to the Maas River cleared,
the Battle of the Scheldt was over and the crucial supply line, essential to fuel the allied advance
to liberate Europe, was secured. The channel was cleared of mines and, on November 28, the first
convoy entered the port of Antwerp, led by the Canadian-built freighter Fort Cataraqui.
The Battle of the Scheldt exacted a heavy toll on the First Canadian Army. Between
October 1 and November 8, 1944, the First Canadian Army suffered 12,873 casualties (killed,
wounded, or missing), 6,367 of whom were Canadians.
HOOGE CRATER CEMETERY, ZILLEBEKE (BELGIUM)
The cemetery is on the road from Menin to Ypres, the road along which the
German Army made desperate attempts to advance in October and November, 1914 to
take Ypres. The cemetery’s name refers to a British mine exploded there, the crater of
which can still be seen symbolically by the paved, sunken area surrounding the Stone of
Remembrance. The area was the scene of the first use of liquid fire by the Germans on
July 30, 1915, and pyrotechnic smoke or gas was seen issuing from the ground in the
late 1970’s. The cemetery contains over 5,000 British, as well as 100 Canadian.
http://www.webmatters.net/cwgc/hooge_crater.htm
ST. SYMPHORIEN MILITARY CEMETERY (BELGIUM)
The village of St. Symphorien is about five kilometres south-east of Mons. The
cemetery is about one kilometre south of the village. The cemetery contains the grave of
probably the first Commonwealth soldier to die in battle on the Western Front – Private J.
Parr, who died August 21, 1914, and Private G. L. Price, from Saskatchewan, who was
likely the last to die in World War I. He was killed at 10:58 a.m. on November 11, 1918,
just 2 minutes before the armistice
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http://ww1cemeteries.com/ww1cemeteries/stymphorienmilitarycemetery.htm
THE BATTLE OF VIMY RIDGE, APRIL, 1917
Always seeking the elusive breakthrough, the Allies planned to launch another
massive offensive, which would take place early in 1917. A sweeping French attack
would be launched in the south between Reims and Soissons, matched by an assault by
the British First and Third Armies around Arras. While the Third Army advanced eastward
along the Scarpe River, the Canadian Corps—with all four of its divisions together for the
first time, and assisted by units of the First Army— would simultaneously deliver an
attack against Vimy Ridge.
Vimy Ridge was a key to the German defence system. Rising 6l metres above the
Douai Plain, it protected an area of occupied France in which mines and factories were in
full production for Germany. It was a linchpin covering the junction of the main
Hindenburg Line and the defence systems running north to the coast of the English
Channel. Since capturing the Ridge in October 1914, the Germans had been building
fortifications to add to its natural strength and dominance.
The slopes of Vimy Ridge favoured the defenders. Because the incline on the
west was gradual, many of the Canadians would have to attack over open ground, where
they would be prime targets for artillery, machine-gun and rifle fire. They would face three
main defensive lines, consisting of a maze of trenches, concrete machine-gun strong
points that had hedges of barbed wire woven around them, and deep dug-outs, all linked
by communication trenches and connecting tunnels. As well, there were vast
underground chambers, some capable of sheltering entire German battalions from Allied
shells.
The Commander of the Canadian Corps, Lieutenant-General Sir Julian Byng,
planned an assault on a front of seven kilometres by all four of his divisions abreast. To
reach their final objectives on the far side of the Ridge, the Canadians would have to
capture the commanding heights of Hill 135 and Hill 145, which formed its crest.
The operation would be conducted in four stages, dictated by the German zones of
defence. At planned intervals, fresh troops from each division would take over the
advance. The assault on "the Pimple," a German stronghold at the northern tip of Vimy
Ridge, overlooking the Souchez valley, would begin 24 hours after the main attack.
No Allied operation on the Western Front was more thoroughly planned than this
deliberate frontal attack on what seemed to be virtually invincible positions. Vimy Ridge
was so well fortified that all previous attempts to capture it had failed. However, Canadian
commanders had learned bitter lessons from the cost of past frontal assaults made by
vulnerable infantry. This time their preparations were elaborate. As the Canadian
Commander of the 1st Division, Major-General Arthur Currie, said, "Take time to train
them." This is exactly what the Canadian Corps did, down to the smallest unit and the
individual soldier.
In the late autumn of 1916, the Canadians moved north, capping their ordeal on
the Somme, to relieve British troops opposite the western slopes of Vimy Ridge. They
spent the coldest winter of the war strengthening defences, carrying out increasingly
frequent raids on enemy trenches and gathering intelligence, in preparation for the spring
offensive. Continual raiding from mid-March on cost the Canadians 1,400 casualties.
19
However, the knowledge gained would later help the Canadians take their Vimy
objectives with lighter losses.
A full-scale replica of the battle area was laid out with reams of coloured tape and
flags behind the Canadian lines. Here Canadian units carried out repeated exercises,
rehearsing exactly what they would do throughout the day of the attack. Maps were given
out to guide the smallest units. The troops were fully informed about their objectives and
their routes.
Military mining had long been a feature of war on Vimy Ridge. German, French
and British engineers had dug many long tunnels under No Man's Land. They filled them
with explosive charges, which blew up enemy trenches, leaving huge craters as new
features of the landscape. Working at night, tunnelling companies used the existing
tunnels to build a new underground network for the Vimy assault. As
well, they dug 12 deep subways, totalling more than five kilometres in
length, through which assault troops could move to their jumping-off
points. The subways protected them from shelling and permitted the
wounded to be brought back from the battlefield. Some subways were
quite short, while one, the Goodman Subway, opposite La Folie Farm,
was 1.2 kilometres long. All had piped water and most were lit by
electricity provided by generators. They also housed telephone lines.
Into the walls of the subways were cut chambers for brigade and battalion
headquarters, ammunition stores, communications centres and dressing stations. The
largest of several deep caverns, the Zivy Cave could hold a whole battalion.
Smaller tunnels leading off the subways to the front line—saps they were called (the title,
sapper, meaning military engineer or engineer private, derives from this term)—were
sealed until Zero Hour and then blown out. At that point, the Canadians would push out to
attack, right onto the battlefield.
The maze of tunnels and caverns was one of the most remarkable engineering
feats of the war. The extensive underground network would reduce casualties amongst
the advancing infantry and returning wounded, and enable supplies to be brought up
under less hazardous conditions.
In addition to constructing this network, Canadian and British engineers repaired
40 kilometres of road in the Corps' forward area and added 4.8 kilometres of new plank
road. They also reconditioned 32 kilometres of tramways, over which light trains, hauled
by gasoline engines or mules, carried stores and ammunition.
The infantry assault was preceded by a massive artillery barrage, which began on March
20. This involved 245 heavy guns and howitzers, and more than 600 pieces of field
artillery. Supporting British artillery added 132 more heavy guns and 102 field pieces. All
this firepower amounted to one heavy gun for every 20 metres of frontage and one field
gun for every 10 metres.
On April 2, the bombardment was stepped up. By the time the infantry set out, a
million artillery shells had battered the Germans. One Canadian commented that shells
poured over his head onto enemy positions "like water from a hose". More than 80 per
cent of the German guns had been identified by aerial reconnaissance and by other
spotting methods which Canadians had perfected. Few survived intact. The Germans
20
called the period "the week of suffering." Trenches were shattered and a new artillery
shell-fuse demolished many barbed-wire entanglements, thereby easing the Canadians'
dangerous path to combat.
The impact of the air war was significant at Vimy. While aerial
reconnaissance yielded valuable intelligence about enemy positions and
artillery sites, fighter aircraft prevented the enemy from gaining a clear
idea of Allied intentions. German observation aircraft and balloons were
attacked and shot down. This work was important and dangerous—
balloons were defended by fighters and anti-aircraft guns. The soon-tobe-famous Canadian fighter pilot, Billy Bishop, won the Military Cross on
April 7 for shooting down a balloon near Vimy. He had begun his
remarkable career in March.
At 5.30 a.m., April 9, 1917, Easter Monday, the creeping artillery barrage began to
move steadily toward the Germans. Behind it advanced 20,000 soldiers of the first
attacking wave of the four Canadian divisions, a score of battalions in line abreast,
leading the assault in a driving north-west wind that swept the mangled countryside with
sleet and snow. Guided by paint-marked stakes, the leading infantry companies crossed
the devastation of No Man's Land, picking their way through shell-holes and shattered
trenches. They were heavily laden. Each soldier carried at least 32 kilograms of
equipment, plus, some say, a similar weight of the all-pervasive mud on uniform and
equipment. This burden made climbing in and out of the numerous trenches and craters
particularly difficult.
There was some hand-to-hand fighting, but the greatest resistance, and heavy
Canadian losses, came from the strongly-emplaced machine-guns in the German
intermediate line. Overcoming this resistance, three of the four divisions captured their
part of the Ridge by midday, right on schedule. In the final stage, the 2nd Canadian
Division was assisted by the British 13th Brigade, which fell under its command for the
operation.
The 4th Canadian Division's principal objective was Hill 145, the highest and most
important feature of the whole Ridge. Once taken, its summit would give the Canadians a
commanding view of German rearward defences in the Douai Plain as well as those
remaining on the Ridge itself.
Because of its importance, the Germans had fortified Hill 145 with well-wired
trenches and a series of deep dug-outs beneath its rear slope. The brigades of the 4th
Division were hampered by fire from the Pimple, the other prominent height, which
inflicted costly losses on the advancing waves of infantry. Renewed attacks were
mounted using troops that were originally scheduled to attack the Pimple. Finally, in the
afternoon of April 10, a fresh assault by a relieving brigade cleared the summit of Hill 145
and thus placed the whole of Vimy Ridge in Canadian hands. Two days later, units of the
10th Canadian Brigade successfully stormed the Pimple. By that time, the enemy had
accepted the loss of Vimy Ridge as permanent and had pulled back more than three
kilometres.
Vimy Ridge marked the only significant success of the Allied spring offensive of
1917. But though they had won a great tactical victory, the Canadians were unable to
exploit their success quickly with a breakthrough, mainly because their artillery had
21
bogged down and was unable to move up with them through the muddy, shell-torn
ground. Instead, some Canadian artillerymen took over captured German guns which
they had earlier been trained to fire.
The Canadian achievement in capturing Vimy Ridge owed its success to sound
and meticulous planning and thorough preparation, all of which was aimed at minimizing
casualties. But it was the splendid fighting qualities and devotion to duty of Canadian
officers and soldiers on the battlefield that were decisive. Most of them citizen-soldiers,
they performed like professionals.
The Capture of Vimy Ridge
At 5.30 a.m., April 9, 1917, Easter Monday, the creeping artillery barrage began to
move steadily toward the Germans. Behind it advanced 20,000 soldiers of the first
attacking wave of the four Canadian divisions, a score of battalions in line abreast,
leading the assault in a driving north-west wind that swept the mangled countryside with
sleet and snow. Guided by paint-marked stakes, the leading infantry companies crossed
the devastation of No Man's Land, picking their way through shell-holes and shattered
trenches. They were heavily laden. Each soldier carried at least 32 kilograms of
equipment, plus, some say, a similar weight of the all-pervasive mud on uniform and
equipment. This burden made climbing in and out of the numerous trenches and craters
particularly difficult.
There was some hand-to-hand fighting, but the greatest resistance, and heavy
Canadian losses, came from the strongly-emplaced machine-guns in the German
intermediate line. Overcoming this resistance, three of the four divisions captured their
part of the Ridge by midday, right on schedule. In the final stage, the 2nd Canadian
Division was assisted by the British 13th Brigade, which fell under its command for the
operation.
The 4th Canadian Division's principal objective was Hill 145, the highest and most
important feature of the whole Ridge. Once taken, its summit would give the Canadians a
commanding view of German rearward defences in the Douai Plain as well as those
remaining on the Ridge itself.
Because of its importance, the Germans had fortified Hill 145 with well-wired
trenches and a series of deep dug-outs beneath its rear slope. The brigades of the 4th
Division were hampered by fire from the Pimple, the other prominent height, which
inflicted costly losses on the advancing waves of infantry. Renewed attacks were
mounted using troops that were originally scheduled to attack the Pimple. Finally, in the
afternoon of April 10, a fresh assault by a relieving brigade cleared the summit of Hill 145
and thus placed the whole of Vimy Ridge in Canadian hands. Two days later, units of the
10th Canadian Brigade successfully stormed the Pimple. By that time, the enemy had
accepted the loss of Vimy Ridge as permanent and had pulled back more than three
kilometres.
Vimy Ridge marked the only significant success of the Allied spring offensive of
1917. But though they had won a great tactical victory, the Canadians were unable to
exploit their success quickly with a breakthrough, mainly because their artillery had
bogged down and was unable to move up with them through the muddy, shell-torn
22
ground. Instead, some Canadian artillerymen took over captured German guns which
they had earlier been trained to fire.
The Canadian achievement in capturing Vimy Ridge owed its success to sound
and meticulous planning and thorough preparation, all of which was aimed at minimizing
casualties. But it was the splendid fighting qualities and devotion to duty of Canadian
officers and soldiers on the battlefield that were decisive. Most of them citizen-soldiers,
they performed like professionals.
Canadians attacked German machine-guns, the greatest obstacles to their
advance, with great courage. They saved many comrades' lives as a result. Four won the
Victoria Cross for their bravery in such dangerous exploits. Of these, three were earned
on the opening day of the battle.
Private William Milne of the 16th Battalion won the VC when he crawled up to a
German machine-gun that had been firing on the advancing Canadians, bombed its crew
and captured the gun. Later, he stalked a second machine-gun, killing its crew and
capturing it, but was himself killed shortly thereafter. The whereabouts of Private Milne's
grave is unknown.
Lance-Sergeant Ellis Sifton of the 18th Battalion charged a machine-gun post
single-handed, leaping into the trench where it was concealed and killing its crew. Soon
after, he was met by a small party of Germans who were advancing through the trench.
He managed to hold them off until his comrades arrived, but then one of his victims,
gasping a last breath of life, fired upon him.
During the fight for Hill 145, Captain Thain MacDowell of the 38th Battalion
entered an enemy dug-out, where he tricked 77 Prussian Guards into surrendering and
captured two machine-guns by pretending he had a large force behind him. His large
force consisted of two soldiers. MacDowell had earned the Distinguished Service Order
on the Somme.
On April 10, Private John Pattison of the 50th Battalion jumped from shell-hole
to shell-hole until, 30 metres from an enemy machine-gun, he was in range to bomb its
crew. He then rushed forward to bayonet the remaining five gunners. Pattison was killed
two months later.
Of the four Vimy VCs, only Captain MacDowell survived the War.
At Vimy, the Canadian Corps had captured more ground, more prisoners and
more guns than any previous British offensive in two-and-a-half years of war. It was one
of the most complete and decisive engagements of the Great War and the greatest Allied
victory up to that time. The Canadians had demonstrated they were one of the
outstanding formations on the Western Front and masters of offensive warfare.
Though the victory at Vimy came swiftly, it did not come without cost. There were
3,598 dead out of 10,602 Canadian casualties. Battalions in the first waves of the assault
suffered grievously. No level of casualties could ever be called acceptable, but those at
Vimy were lower than the terrible norm of many major assaults on the Western Front.
They were also far lighter than those of any previous offensive at the Ridge. Earlier
French, British and German struggles there had cost at least 200,000 casualties. Care in
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planning by the Corps Commander, Sir Julian Byng, and his right-hand man, Arthur
Currie, kept Canadian casualties down.
The Canadian success at Vimy marked a profound turning-point for the Allies. A
year-and-a-half later, the Great War was over. The Canadian record, crowned by the
achievements at Vimy, won for Canada a separate signature on the Versailles Peace
Treaty ending the war. Back home, the victory at Vimy, won by troops from every part of
the country, helped unite many Canadians in pride at the courage of their citizen-soldiers,
and established a feeling of real nationhood.
Brigadier-General Alexander Ross had commanded the 28th (North-West)
Battalion at Vimy. Later, as president of the Canadian Legion, he proposed the first
Veterans' post-war, pilgrimage to the new Vimy Memorial in 1936. He said of the battle:
"It was Canada from the Atlantic to the Pacific on parade. I thought then . . . that in those
few minutes I witnessed the birth of a nation."
http://www.civilization.ca/cwm/vimy/index_e.html
THE CANADIAN NATIONAL VIMY MEMORIAL
Canada's most impressive tribute overseas to those
Canadians who fought and gave their lives in the First World War
is the majestic and inspiring Canadian National Vimy Memorial
which overlooks the Douai Plain from the highest point of Vimy
Ridge, about eight kilometres northeast of Arras. The Memorial
does more than mark the site of the engagement that Canadians
were to remember with more pride than any other operation of
the First World War. It stands as a tribute to all who served their
country in battle in that four-year struggle and particularly to
those who gave their lives. At the base of the Memorial, these
words appear in French and in English:
To the valour of their
Countrymen in the Great War
And in memory of their sixty
Thousand dead this monument
Is raised by the people of Canada
Inscribed on the ramparts of the Memorial are the names of 11,285 Canadian
soldiers who were posted as "missing, presumed dead" in France. The land for the
battlefield park, 91.18 hectares (250 acres) in extent, was (as stated on a plaque at the
entrance to the Memorial) "the free gift in perpetuity of the French nation to the people of
Canada.
The monument was designed by Canadian architect and sculptor, the late Walter
Seymour Allward. His design was selected from 160 others submitted by Canadians who
participated in a competition held in the early 1920s. Construction of the massive work
began in 1925 and 11 years later, on July 26, 1936, King Edward VIII unveiled the
monument. On April 9, 2007, on the 90th anniversary of the battle, Queen Elizabeth II
rededicated the monument, after a two year restoration. The original monument cost $1.5
million; the restoration cost $20 million.!
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Built into the side of the hill at the highest point of the Ridge, the monument rests
on a bed of about 15,000 tons of concrete, reinforced with hundreds of tons of steel. The
excavation had to be done with great care as the ground was littered with live bombs and
shells. Many of these were unearthed as digging proceeded. The deepest part of the
foundation is under the monument's eastward facing front walls, where it goes down 13
metres.
The 20 sculptured figures which grace the monument were actually carved where
they now stand from huge blocks of this stone. The carvers used half-size plaster models
produced by Walter Allward and an instrument called a pantograph to reproduce the
huge figures to the proper scale. Finishing touches were then added by a master carver.
Allward once said that his inspiration for the monument came to him in a dream.
The two pylons represent Canada and France - two nations beset by war and united to
fight for a common goal - peace and freedom for the Allied nations. To some, the pylons
may seem like twin sentinels, silently guarding a peaceful world. Or they may be seen as
a gateway to a better world where peace prevails.
There is a wealth of symbolism in its sculptures which help the viewer in
contemplating the structure as a whole. One theme is that of the strength of the ideals
shared by Canada, France, and Britain which gives its true strength to the bulwark of
defence represented by the massive base of the Memorial. Another is the sorrow of a
young nation at the sacrifice of so much of her youth. Yet a third is a prayer for peace.
Some of the sculptures are mourners. As you approach the Memorial, you will have
passed by two such figures reclining on either side of the steps - a woman on the left, a
man on the right.
As you walk to the front of the monument, you will see one of its central figures - a
woman, cloaked and hooded, facing eastward toward the new day. Her eyes are cast
down and her chin is resting on her hand. Below her is a tomb, draped in laurel branches
and bearing a helmet. This saddened figure represents Canada - a young nation
mourning her fallen sons. This figure was carved from a single, 30-tonne block of stone the largest piece in the monument
Turning from this figure to look up at the pylons, you will see at the highest points,
Justice and Peace. Arranged below them are other figures representing Truth,
Knowledge, Gallantry and Sympathy. Around these figures are shields of Canada, Britain
and France. On the outside of the pylons is the Cross. In the centre, at the base, the
Spirit of Sacrifice throws the torch to his comrades.
Beside the steps leading down on each side of the front walls are two groups of
carved figures. These are the Defenders. Facing the Memorial, at the bottom of the stairs
on your left, is the Breaking of the Sword and, on your right, Sympathy for the Helpless.
Above each group are cannons, silent now and draped in laurel and olive branches symbols of Victory and Peace.
On the outside of the monument's enclosing walls you will find the names of
11,285 Canadians who were killed in France and whose final resting places are
unknown. The First World War battle honours of the regiments that fought at Vimy Ridge
and dedicatory inscriptions are carved on the face of the pylons.
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As you stand on the monument's wide stone terrace and look out over the broad
fields and rolling hills of France, you can see other places where Canadians fought and
died. More than 7,000 are buried in 30 war cemeteries. Within the grounds of the Vimy
Ridge Memorial are two cemeteries:
(a) Canadian Cemetery # 2 – contains 746 Canadian and British soldiers who died
during the April, 1917 battle.
(b) Givernchy Road Canadian Cemetery – contains 11 Canadian graves
http://www.vac-acc.gc.ca/general/sub.cfm?source=history/firstwar/vimy/vimy7
CABARET ROUGE BRITISH CEMETERY, SOUCHEZ (FRANCE)
The village of Souchez and the war cemetery lie seven miles north
of Arras, (about 10 kms. from Vimy Ridge) on the main road to Bethune.
The village was completely destroyed during World War I. The cemetery
has the third largest number of Commonwealth burials in France,
containing 6,800 British, 750 Canadian, and many from other countries as
well. Canada’s Unknown Soldier was repatriated from here – Plot 8,
Row E, Grave 7 in May, 2000, and now rests at the National War
Memorial in Ottawa.
http://www.webmatters.net/cwgc/cabaret_rouge.htm
NEUVILLE ST. VAAST GERMAN CEMETERY
This is on the site of the heavily defended German
position known as ―The Labyrinth‖ in World War I, about 10
kms. from Vimy Ridge. Today there are 37,000 German graves,
as well as over 8,000 in one mass grave. Of note, there are
over 100 Jewish German soldiers’ graves.
http://www.webmatters.net/france/ww1_friedhof_maisonblanche.htm
FRENCH NATIONAL CEMETERY, BASILICA, AND MUSEUM, NOTRE-DAME DE
LORETTE
This hill and Vimy Ridge, which is to the south-east and
separated from it by the motorway, are adjacent features. In
1915, there were two major actions around Notre-Dame de
Lorette. This French cemetery contains 19,000 identified burials
and six mass graves containing more than 16,000 soldiers, all
arranged around a clear central area in which is the tower and
basilica. In the crypt of the tower are the remains of several
unknown French soldiers from various wars and campaigns.
The nearby museum recreates the life of the soldier on the Artois front, with many
interesting dioramas with sound effects, and collections of artifacts. Behind the museum
is a recreated battlefield area.
http://www.webmatters.net/france/ww1_lorette.htm
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.THE RAID ON DIEPPE, AUGUST 19, 1942
This town (population 18,000 today) was the site for the ill-fated and highly
controversial ―Jubilee Raid, ― on August 19, 1942. This was intended to be a scouting raid
to test the German defences. Instead, of the 6,000 Allied forces (5,000 were Canadian),
more than 3,600 were killed, captured, or wounded, and naval losses were 550. This raid
forced the delay of the Normandy invasion by a full year.
http://www.historyguy.com/raid_at_dieppe_links.html
Dieppe, the beach closest to Paris, is the oldest French
seaside resort; the harbour is modern but many old corners and
alleys remain, making it one of the most unusual towns in Normandy.
The town’s past is evoked in its churches, castle, and museum.
Below the castle and west cliff in Square du Canada stands a
monument commemorating the men who explore Canada in the 16 th,
17th, and 18th centuries, a reminder of the 250 years of common history between the two
countries. A plaque recalls the Commando Raid in 1942.
The Raid on Dieppe, France, on August 19, 1942, was a pivotal moment in the
Second World War. With virtually all of continental Europe under German occupation, the
Allied forces faced a well-entrenched enemy. Some method had to be found to create a
foothold on the continent, and the Raid on Dieppe offered invaluable lessons for the
successful D-Day invasion in 1944, saving countless lives in that momentous offensive.
Canadians made up the great majority of the attackers in the raid. Nearly 5,000 of the
6,100 troops were Canadians. The remaining troops consisted of approximately 1,000
British Commandos and 50 American Rangers. The raid was supported by eight Allied
destroyers and 74 Allied air squadrons, eight belonging to the Royal Canadian Air Force
(RCAF). Major-General J.H. Roberts, Commander of the 2nd Canadian Division, was
Military Force Commander, with Captain J. Hughes-Hallett, Royal Navy (RN) as Naval
Force Commander and Air Vice-Marshal T.L. Leigh-Mallory as Air Force Commander.
Although extremely valuable lessons were learned in the Raid on Dieppe, a steep
price was paid. Of the 4,963 Canadians who embarked for the operation, only 2,210
returned to England, and many of these were wounded. There were 3,367 casualties,
including 1,946 prisoners of war; 913 Canadians lost their lives.
The plan involved landing at five different points on a front of roughly 16 kms.
Four simultaneous flank attacks were to go at dawn, followed by a frontal assault on
Dieppe itself. Canadians would form the main force for the frontal attack on Dieppe and
the flanking operations at Pourville to the west and Puy to the east. British Commandos
were given the task of destroying the coastal batteries of Varengeville and Berneval.
The element of surprise, so vital to the success of the plan, was lost when the
landing craft of f the eastern sector unexpectedly met with a German naval patrol and the
noise of the ensuing sea fight alerted the defenders. Most of the landing craft were
scattered and only a few of the Commandos were able to land. However, a brilliant
operation by only 19 men successfully prevented the coastal battery of Berneval, manned
by 200 soldiers, from firing on the ships transporting the allied troops to the landing
beaches. The Commando attack at Varengeville, on the other hand, was completely
successful and the batteries destroyed.
27
The troops landing at Puy and Pourville met with stiff opposition and were unable
to achieve their objective of neutralizing the formidable fire power on the eastern and
western cliffs dominating the main landing beach at Dieppe. The Royal Regiment of
Canada suffered particularly heavy casualties at Puy, losing 65% of its men in less than
two hours. As a result, when the main assault force of Canadians arrived, they were
pinned down on the beaches by murderous crossfire and only a few managed to
penetrate the town itself where they were either killed or taken prisoners. Evacuation
began at 11 a.m. and by 1 p.m. the fighting ceased.
By early afternoon, August 19, 1942, Operation Jubilee was over. Debate over the
merit of the raid continues to the present day. Some believe that it was a useless
slaughter, others maintain that is was necessary for the success of the invasion of the
continent two years later on D-Day. Without question, the Raid on Dieppe was studied
carefully in planning later attacks against the enemy-held coast of France. There were
improvements in the technique, fire support and tactics, which reduced D-Day casualties
to an unexpected minimum. The lessons learned at Dieppe were instrumental in saving
countless lives on June 6, 1944.
As a result of this military operation, two Canadians, Rev. John Foote and
Lieutenant- Colonel Cecil Merritt were both awarded the Victoria Cross for gallantry.
Rev. John Foote:
'At Dieppe on 19th August 1942, Honourary Captain Foote, Canadian Chaplain Services,
was Regimental Chaplain with the Royal Hamilton Light Infantry.
Upon landing on the beach under heavy fire he attached himself to the Regimental Aid
Post which had been set up in a slight depression on the beach, but which was only
sufficient to give cover to men lying down. During the subsequent period of approximately
eight hours, while the action continued, this officer not only assisted the Regimental
Medical Officer in ministering to the wounded in the Regimental Aid Post, but time and
again left this shelter to inject morphine, give first-aid and carry wounded personnel from
the open beach to the Regimental Aid Post. On these occasions, with utter disregard for
his personal safety, Honourary Captain Foote exposed himself to an inferno of fire and
saved many lives by his gallant efforts. During the action, as the tide went out, the
Regimental Aid Post was moved to the shelter of a stranded landing craft.
Honourary Captain Foote continued tirelessly and courageously to carry wounded
men from the exposed beach to the cover of the landing craft. He also removed wounded
from inside the landing craft when ammunition had been set on fire by enemy shells.
When landing craft appeared he carried wounded from the Regimental Aid Post to the
landing craft through heavy fire. On several occasions this officer had the opportunity to
embark but returned to the beach as his chief concern was the care and evacuation of
the wounded. He refused a final opportunity to leave the shore, choosing to suffer the
fate of the men he had ministered to for over three years.
Honourary Captain Foote personally saved many lives by his efforts and his
example inspired all around him. Those who observed him state that the calmness of this
heroic officer as he walked about, collecting the wounded on the fire-swept beach will
never be forgotten."
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Lieutenant- Colonel Cecil Merritt
Following the landing at Pourville, the South Saskatchewan Regiment made their way
toward the town of Dieppe. As they struggled to cross the bridge over the River Scie,
Lieutenant- Colonel Cecil Merritt came forward and took charge himself. A daring lead
was required; waving his helmet, Merritt rushed forward shouting, 'Come on over! There's
nothing to worry about here.'
Walking calmly into the storm of fire on the bridge, he led party after party across
by the sheer force of his example. Other men forded or swam the river. In spite of their
valiant efforts, the advance was halted and they were forced to withdraw. Again, Lt.-Col.
Merritt displayed outstanding courage. Although twice wounded, he commanded a
vigorous rearguard action that permitted the majority of the units to successfully reembark. The rearguard itself could not be rescued, and Lt.-Col. Merritt and his men
became prisoners of war.
DIEPPE CANADIAN WAR CEMETERY (FRANCE)
The cemetery is in the Commune of Hautot-sur-Mer,
about 3 kilometres south of Dieppe. It will always be linked with
Canada, for in the Dieppe Raid that took place on August 19,
1942, nearly 5,000 Canadians took part (of a total of just over
6,000). More than 3,600 Allied troops were killed, wounded,
missing, or captured, while the naval losses were 550. The
cemetery has nearly 700 Canadian burials.
http://ww1cemeteries.com/othercemeteries/dieppecanadianwarcemetery.htm
NORMANDY
Say the name ―Normandy‖ and what images come to mind? Here are just a few:
Long ships heading to Hastings in 1066 with William the Conqueror sailing across the
English Channel to stake his claim to the English throne;
Joan of Arc burned at a stake in Rouen, in a turning point of the Hundred Years’ War;
The majestic spires of Mont St. Michel;
The Allied invasion of June 6, 1944 – D-Day – ―The first twenty-four hours of the
invasion will be decisive … the fate of Germany depends on the outcome … for the
Allies, as well as for Germany, it will be the longest day.‖ – Field Marshal Rommel
Our primary focus will be on ―the longest day,‖ a day that marked the turning point in
World War II. Listed below are some of the sites and attractions associated with this
climactic event, as well as some World War I & II locations in northern France.
http://www.normandy-tourism.org – an excellent source with many links to specific sites
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BAYEUX
Bayeux, (population 15,000) the first town to be liberated during the Battle
of Normandy, is steeped in history – home to a Norman-Gothic cathedral, a museum
dedicated to the Battle of Normandy, and the world’s most celebrated piece of
needlework: The Bayeux Tapestry. – memories of a battle fought long ago on British
soil.
Situated just outside the town of Bayeux and in sight of the famous Cathedral, is
the British War Cemetery and Memorial, where those who died during Operation
Overlord from 6th June 1944 (D-Day) are buried or commemorated.
Bayeux Military Cemetery is the largest British World War II Cemetery in
France. Row upon row of white gravestones, each with its small garden, stand in militarily
regimented lines among the manicured lawns and horse chestnut trees. The view from
the cemetery is dominated by the spires and copper dome of Bayeux Cathedral, and
within a short distance is the Bayeux Tapestry.
The cemetery is the last resting place of 4,648 soldiers, sailors and airmen from
all corners of the world. Here you will find Major Generals next to Privates, Catholics next
to Jews, Russians next to Canadians. Rank, creed and nationality have no meaning
anymore. Every gravestone represents someone’s son or daughter, husband or wife,
father or mother. Across the road nearest the town is the Bayeux Memorial. Here 2,808
men and women who have no known grave are commemorated.
Sidney Bates, V.C. - On 6 August 1944 near Sourdeval, France, when the enemy had
penetrated deeply in the area occupied by his section, Corporal Bates seized a light
machine-gun and charged, moving forward through a hail of bullets. Although wounded
twice he was undaunted and continued firing until the enemy started to withdraw before
him. At this moment he was wounded for a third time mortally. He still went on firing,
however, until his strength failed him, but by this time the enemy had withdrawn and the
situation had been restored. He died two days later, and was awarded the Victoria Cross
– ―For Valour.‖ (Grave Reference XX, E, 19).
The Battle of Normandy Museum has detailed exhibits
detailing the story of the struggle from June 7 to August 24, 1944.
This modern museum near the British War Cemetery, contains an
impressive array of wax paraphernalia, including uniforms,
weapons, equipment, 150 waxworks, and a film showing scenes
and tactics of the invasion.
http://www.normandiememoire.com/lieux_historiques/
Unlike nearby Caen which was largely destroyed during the Allied invasion and
the German retreat, Bayeux was essentially untouched by the war. It’s a wonderful town
in which to shop, walk, and enjoy eating in a wide range of restaurants. It’s also well
situated as a base from which to visit all five D-Day invasions beaches, from Sword in the
east to Utah in the west.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bayeux
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JUNO BEACH
On D-Day, June 6, 1944, ―Operation Overlord‖, the long-awaited invasion of Nazioccupied Europe, began with Allied armies from the U.S., Britain and Canada landing on
the coast of Normandy. On D-Day, the 3rd Canadian Infantry Division landed on Juno
Beach. The Canadian assault troops stormed ashore in the face of fierce opposition from
German strongholds and mined beach obstacles. The soldiers raced across the wideopen beaches swept with machine gun fire, and stormed the gun positions. In fierce
hand-to-hand fighting, they fought their way into the towns of Bernières, Courseulles and
St. Aubin and then advanced inland, securing a critical bridgehead for the allied invasion.
The victory was a turning point in World War II and led to the liberation of Europe and the
defeat of Nazi Germany.
14,000 young Canadians stormed Juno Beach on D-Day.
Their courage, determination and self-sacrifice were the immediate
reasons for the success in those critical hours. The fighting they
endured was fierce and frightening. The price they paid was high the battles for the beachhead cost 340 Canadian lives and another
574 wounded. John Keegan, eminent British historian who wrote
Six Armies in Normandy, stated the following concerning the Canadian 3rd Division on DDay: ―At the end of the day, its forward elements stood deeper into France than those of
any other division. The opposition the Canadians faced was stronger than that of any
other beach save Omaha. That was an accomplishment in which the whole nation could
take considerable pride.‖
Juno Beach was eight kilometres wide and stretched on either side of the small
fishing port of Courseulles-sur-Mer, France. Two smaller villages, Bernières and St.
Aubin, lay to the east of Courseulles. The coastline had been fortified by the occupying
Germans and bristled with guns, concrete emplacements, pillboxes, fields of barbed wire
and mines.
The 3rd Canadian Infantry Division reinforced by the 2nd Canadian Armoured Brigade
landed in two brigade groups:
- 7th Brigade consisting of the Royal Winnipeg Rifles, Regina Rifles, and Canadian
Scottish regiments
- 8th Brigade consisting of the North Shore Regiment, Queen's Own Rifles, and Le
Régiment de la Chaudière
Each Brigade group was comprised of 3 infantry battalions (regiments), and supported by
an armoured regiment, 2 artillery field regiments, combat engineer companies and extra
units such as Armoured Vehicles, Royal Engineers (AVRE's). The Fort Garry Horse tanks
(10th Armoured Regiment) supported the 7th brigade landing on the left and the1st
Hussars tanks (6th Armoured Regiment) supported the landing on the right.
The 9th Brigade consisting of the Highland Light Infantry, Stormont Dundas and
Glengarry Highlanders, and North Nova Scotia Highlanders regiments landed later in the
morning and advanced through the lead brigades. The Sherbrooke Fusiliers tanks (27th
Armoured Regiment) provided tank support.
Although a total of 14,000 Canadians stormed Juno Beach on D-Day, there were
not more than three thousand young Canadians in the first wave - all ranks. The initial
assault was the responsibility of four regiments with two additional companies supporting
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the flanks:
- North Shore Regiment on the left at St. Aubin (Nan Red beach)
- Queen's Own Rifles in the centre at Bernières (Nan White beach)
- Regina Rifles at Courseulles (Nan Green beach)
- Royal Winnipeg Rifles on the western edge of Courseulles (Mike Red and Mike Green
beaches)
- a company of the Canadian Scottish secured the right flank
- a company of British, Royal Marine Commandos secured the left flank
The first wave of Canadian infantry was brought into shore by LCA's landing at
7:55. When the ramps lowered the troops disembarked and waded ashore. The soldiers
hit the beaches and began the deadliest run of their lives. As they worked their way
through the obstacles and minefields they came into the killing zones of the German gun
positions. The assault troops raced across the beaches through the curtain of machine
gun fire, rushed the pillboxes and eliminated the German strong-points with Sten-guns,
small arms fire and grenades. The first wave took heavy casualties on the beaches. DD
tanks arrived on the beaches and fired on the pillboxes, decimating the remaining strongpoints. In bitter hand-to-hand fighting the Canadians cleared the enemy gun positions
and fought their way into the towns.
All morning long the battle raged along the precious strip of coast. The Regina
Rifles and Royal Winnipeg Rifles fought their way through Courseulles and Graye-surMer. The North Shore Regiment captured St.Aubin while the Queen's Own Rifles took the
town of Bernières. Tanks and infantry struck inland all that day and pressed on through
villages, fields and groves of trees defended by determined Germans.
Facing formidable gun emplacements, machine gun nests and snipers, the brave
Canadian soldiers did not hesitate in their advance. Determined officers led their well
trained platoons to take out the enemy strongholds. Countless times the soldiers showed
acts of valour by engaging the enemy in vicious close quarter fighting. Soldiers lost their
close friends in the fighting and somehow found the courage to keep going. Through the
terror of the battle the disciplined soldiers pushed on to overcome the enemy positions.
The fierce battles were won by the bravery of the individual Canadian soldiers and the
collective actions of their regimental units.
The Canadian achievements on D-Day were remarkable. By the end of the day
the 3rd Canadian Division was well established on its intermediate objectives, and had
progressed further inland than any of the Allies. Although short of the planned final D-day
objectives the Canadians had broken through the 'Atlantic Wall' and smashed the first
line of German defences.
The capture of Juno Beach on D-Day was accomplished by very ordinary young
Canadian boys. These young men had accomplished what many had thought was
impossible. Their courage and determination was the immediate reason for the success
in those critical hours. They had found the courage within themselves to endure the fierce
and frightening battle. Their determination had pushed them forward to beat the most
highly regarded military machine of the 20th century - the German Panzers. They had
fought beside their friends, people they had joined up with, trained with and lived with for
four years within their regiments. They had developed a bond and loyalty to each other
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and nobody was going to let the other guy down in battle. Many of these friends did not
return from Normandy.
14,000 Canadians landed in Normandy on D-Day and to ensure the victory 340
Canadians had given their lives. Another 574 had been wounded and 47 taken prisoner.
The casualties were less than expected, but heavy nonetheless. Ross Munro, a
Canadian journalist reported: "The German dead were littered over the dunes, by the gun
positions. By them, lay Canadians in blood stained battledress, in the sand and in the
grass, on the wire and by the concrete forts. I saw friends I had known, men who had
joined the army in the first months of the war - and now had died in their first action here
on the Norman beach. They had lived a few minutes of the victory they had made. That
was all."
D-Day was a magnificent accomplishment for the Allies. The progress on the
other beaches was similar to the Canadians at Juno. The British had come ashore at
Sword and Gold beaches, the 3rd British Division advancing to within three miles of Caen
and the 50th Division was only two miles from Bayeux. The Americans had established
beachheads at Omaha and Utah, despite meeting fierce resistance at Omaha beach. The
Allies were digging in and securing the bridgeheads to prevent the Germans from
pushing them back into the sea. Soon the Allied bridgeheads would be expanded and
joined to form a continuous front. The Allies had landed more than 150,000 troops in
France by sea and air. Thousands of vehicles, hundreds of guns and about 4,000 tons of
supplies had also been landed. More soldiers and supplies were pouring ashore to
continue the advance on D-Day-plus-one. The formidable Atlantic Wall had been
successfully breached.
http://members.shaw.ca/junobeach/index.htm
JUNO BEACH CENTRE
This is located in the town of Courseulles-sur-Mer,
(population 4,000) and was one of the key designated D-Day
invasion points for Canadian forces on D-Day.
The centre's website says: "The Juno Beach Centre at
Courseulles-sur-Mer in Normandy will provide recognition of
Canada's military and civilian contributions during the Second World War. It will preserve
for future generations the knowledge of the contributions of that generation of Canadians
and honour the gifts of valour and freedom that were given by all Canadians who
participated."
The opening of the museum on June 6, 2003, came after a seven-year effort to
establish the first permanent memorial to Canada's effort in the Second World War. More
than $8 million was raised to pay for the planning, construction and staffing. The federal
government put in over $3 million, and another $1 million came from each of Ontario,
B.C., and the government of France. Contributions also came from the governments of
Nova Scotia, Saskatchewan and New Brunswick, and Wal-Mart put in about $250,000.
D-Day veterans raised much of the rest. Garth Webb, D-Day veteran and current
president of the JBCA, and Lise Cooper, secretary-treasurer, played instrumental roles in
getting the museum built.
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A Canadian veteran, Jan Devries of Toronto, says, "I've been over to France on a
pilgrimage, two or three times as a matter of fact. And outside of the graveyards and a
little plaque here and there, there is nothing people could learn about what Canada did
during the war.‖ The completion of the Juno Beach Centre has changed this.
The museum at the Juno Beach Centre includes a simulated approach to the DDay beaches by landing craft, and displays on the theatres of operations and the events
of the Second World War in Canada and overseas. It also includes explanations of
military hardware and tactics such as how minesweeping works or how a convoy was
organized. A special section is a "children's circuit" aimed at those eight to 13 years old.
See the centre’s excellent website for more details.http://www.junobeach.org
BENY-SUR-MER CANADIAN WAR CEMETERY (FRANCE)
The village of Beny-sur-Mer lies about fourteen
kilometres north-west of Caen and two miles from the
beaches near Courseulles where the Canadian 3rd Division
landed on D-Day, June 6, 1944. On that day, over 300
soldiers of the division died. Most of them, and other
Canadians who died in later stages of the Battle of
Normandy, are buried in this war cemetery, which in fact is
near the village of Reviers, a mile from Beny. The
cemetery contains 2,044 Canadian burials. It contains nine pairs of brothers - Blais,
Boyd, Branton, Hadden, Hobbin, Mekin, Skwarchuk, Tadgell and White. The Westlake
family has three brothers buried here (III – D – 7 & 8 and VIII – F – 12). The British and
Commonwealth Forces did not at this stage have the same policy of trying to separate
close relations as did the Americans (giving rise to the story of ―Private Ryan.‖)
http://battlefieldsww2.50megs.com/beny_canadian_war_cem.htm
PEGASUS BRIDGE
This was the site of the first D-Day landings by paratroops of the British 6th
Airborne Division, under Major John Howard, shortly after midnight on June 6. It was vital
to secure bridges in this area.
Pegasus Bridge was the objective of 6th (Airborne) Division's
'coup de main' force on the night of 5th/6th June 1944. Three gliders
dropped within yards of the target, the road bridge across the Caen
canal. Inside were men from Oxs and Bucks Light Infantry Airborne,
under the command of Major John Howard. In what has been called
some of the best flying of the war, the three gliders came down close
to the bridge, and the advanced party under Lieutenant Den Brotheridge stormed the
defences. Brotheridge was killed on the other side of the bridge, just short of the nearby
Gondree Cafe. With this bridge, the bridge across the Orne secured by another party
from the Oxs and Bucks, Howard had achieved his objectives in ten minutes and sent the
radio message 'Ham and Jam' to indicate both positions had been taken intact.
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7th Para then arrived, and the crossroads in Benoueville were held for the rest of
the day, despite attacks from elements of 21st Panzer Division. Lord Lovat's commandos
arrived along the road from the direction of Ouistreham, and the link up was complete.
Also worth visiting here is the original Gondree Cafe on the
other side of the bridge. This is regarded by many historians as the first
home liberated by Allied forces during the Normandy invasion. Inside
the cafe are many pictures and memorabilia depicting the airborne
action. Arlette Gondree, 4 years old on June 6, 1944, still owns and
operates this unique café.
The Gondree Cafe had been used as an aid post, and the cafe
owner, Monsieur Gondree, dug up his supply of 99 bottles of French champagne from the
garden and gladly shared it with his liberators. Since the end of the war, survivors of this
campaign have returned on June 6 to re-celebrate this historic event. Today the cafe has
become an important stop for any visitor to this part of the battlefield; it is still owned by
the Gondree family, and still a cafe but inside is like a living museum.
The original Pegasus Bridge was replaced in the 1990’s, but
is now preserved in the grounds of the nearby excellent museum,
Pegasus Memorial which houses many displays of this battle, a
good orientation film, and a reconstructed Hosa glider. There are
plaques on the site of where the gliders came down and a
memorial to John Howard.
www.normandie1944.fr/
CAEN
Caen, the modern capital of lower Normandy,(population 200,000), is a lively city
with a distinctive identity. The bombs which fell here in 1944 could have left Caen lifeless
for all their violence. But the city proved to be resilient and was able to draw on the
strength of it history to rebuilt. Today, it is modern in spirit, benefits from the presence of
a university (founded in the 1600’s, it now has more than 30,000 students), and is also,
quite simply, a charming place to visit.
During the Normandy campaign in 1944, the battle of Caen lasted for over two
months. On June 6, there was a heavy bombing raid; fire raged for 11 days and the
central area was burned out. On July 9, the Canadians who had taken Carpiquet airfield,
entered Caen from the west, but the Germans, who had fallen back to the east bank of
the Orne in Vaucelles, began to shell the city. The official liberation ceremony took place
in Vaucelles on July 20, but another month went by before the last German shell was
fired.
Caen has a lot of interesting attractions, including fine shopping and eating
establishments, and a picturesque harbour. Among the historical attractions worth
visiting, the Abbeys are particularly notable – (Abbayes-aux-Hommes) St. Etienne
Church – belonging to the abbey founded by William the Conqueror, started in 1066 in
the Romanesque style and completed in the 13 th century in the Gothic style. William was
originally buried here. Although his tomb was sacked by Huguenots in the 16th century;
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all that remains is a femur interred beneath the stone. Also worth visiting are the adjacent
monastery buildings.
The Abbaye-aux-Dames, founded in 1062, is the sister house to its male
counterpart. Trinity Church is very impressive. The Chateau, the imposing citadel
dominating the mount was begun by William the Conqueror in 1060, and was constantly
enlarged during the 13th, 14th, and 15th centuries. It was severely damaged in 1944, but
has been well restored.
Caen has one of the best World War II museums in France. Officially named
“Memorial for Peace”, its intent is to put the Battle of Normandy in a broader context.
Your visit has four parts: the lead- up to World War II, the actual battle of Normandy, the
video presentations, and the ongoing fight for peace.
http://www.memorial.fr/indexgb.htm – site describes this museum
FALAISE
The small town (population 8,500) of Falaise is the proud birthplace of William the
Conqueror. Falaise suffered cruelly in August, 1944 during the fighting that took place in
the Falaise-Chambois pocket. Today, this friendly and lively centre is dominated by the
imposing medieval castle where William the Bastard, Duke of Normandy, was born in
1027
Caen had been an important accomplishment, but much work remained to be
done. On 18 July, the Canadian portion of Operation Goodwood, Operation Atlantic,
began. It was the first stage in the breakout from the Normandy beachhead area.
According to the plan, the 2nd Canadian Corps, with the British 7th British Armoured and
the Guards Armoured Divisions under command, was to take the suburbs southeast of
Caen. Once again, a strong German defence made this objective difficult to attain. The
Canadians suffered heavy losses.
The battle for Verrières Ridge provided a similar story. The Canadians,
participating in Operation Spring, were to attack Verrières, a tactically important high
point that controlled the road south of Caen. On 20 July, and again four days later,
Canadian and British forces failed to take the ridge. Although they accomplished one of
their goals-tying down German Panzer divisions and thus helping the Americans break
out from their positions farther west-Verrières was a killing ground. (1) The 24 July
engagement was particularly bloody. The North Nova Scotia Highlanders (3rd Division)
ended the engagement with some 100 survivors. The Black Watch regiment from
Montreal was decimated: only 15 survived. The Royal Hamilton Light Infantry lost 200
men.
On 23 July, as the battles of Operations Atlantic and Spring were winding down,
Headquarters 1st Canadian Army was activated. Initially, it took under command only the
2nd British Corps, which remained part of 1st Canadian Army until March 1945. At this
point, the "D-Day Dodgers," 1st Canadian Corps, transferred from Italy to northwest
Europe. The 4th Canadian Armoured Division, the last of Canada's invasion forces,
joined 2nd Canadian Corps in the last days of July, taking the place of the 3rd Canadian
Division, which had faced the Germans for 55 days straight. At the same time, 2nd
Canadian Corps and the 2nd Canadian Armoured Brigade came under 1st Canadian
Army. The 1st Canadian Army, commanded by General Harry Crerar, was a uniquely
36
international formation that variously included, in addition to Canadians, British, Polish,
Dutch, Belgian, and Czech formations.
The Nazis, wracked by rash military decision making at the highest level, now
attempted one last gambit; Hitler directed an offensive against the US 1st Army at
Mortain and Avranches. The attack was fraught with peril. If the German objectives were
not taken immediately, both flanks of the attacking force would become prone to
counterattack. The likely result would be encirclement. The offensive was, in fact,
doomed from the start. Thanks to Ultra, Britain's top secret decoding unit, the Allies had
broken the German codes and thus knew about the plan from the outset. For the Allies,
by contrast, the German offensive was a huge opportunity. Allied armies could spring a
trap at the rear of the advance and cut off a large segment of Germany's fighting force.
The enemy might be crippled, ending the war.
Battle hardened and increasingly weary, the Canadians next saw action during
the advance to Falaise and beyond. The fighting was savagely intense. The 1st Canadian
Army-which had also incorporated the 7th British Armoured Division and the 1st Polish
Armoured Division-came under the command of General H.D. Crerar. Its goal was to
reach Falaise and thereby help close a gap into which thousands of Germans were
retreating from the north.
On the night of 7 August, the new operation, Totalize, commenced. Although
some striking tactical innovations were introduced, they could not overcome the
inexperience of the Canadian and Polish armoured divisions fighting their first battles. ( 2)
While the Canadians achieved some of their tactical aims, by 9 August, they were still far
to the north of Falaise. On 14 August, Guy Simonds's 2nd Canadian Corps launched
Operation Tractable, another major offensive in an attempt to meet up with American
forces advancing from the south and close the Falaise Pocket. Initially repulsed, it
redoubled its efforts on 16 August, this time with 2nd Canadian Division also committed
to the attack.
The next day, Falaise finally fell. In coordination with the Americans, who began
to attack, belatedly, from Argentan in the south on the 18th, the 1st Canadian Army
proceeded to close the gap. When the troops of the Polish Armoured Division linked up
with the Americans at Chambois on late 20 August, the Allies finally shut the gate on the
Falaise Pocket. The next day, the gate was locked definitively when tanks of the
Canadian Grenadier Guards, 4th Canadian Armoured Division, linked up with the Poles
at Chambois. A measure of the ferocity of the fighting is that the forward elements of both
the Canadian and Polish armoured divisions were cut off for up to three days. One such
Canadian unit was The South Alberta Regiment. Major David Currie, commanding the
tanks of "C" Squadron and an all too small party of infantrymen of the Argyl and
Sutherland Highlanders, was awarded the Victoria Cross for his part in seizing and
holding St. Lambert, a key site in the line of the German retreat.
Throughout the intense struggle for control of the Falaise Pocket, the Allied air
forces were wreaking horrendous destruction on the Germans inside. While thousands of
Germans were able to slip out of the trap, almost no tanks or vehicles survived. The
Allies managed to capture almost one half of the Wehrmacht and its equipment then in
Normandy. Thus ended the battle for Normandy, the definitive battle of the Western
Front.
http://www.lermuseum.org/ler/mh/wwii/inland.html
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Major David Currie, V.C.
"In Normandy on the 18th of August 1944, Major Currie was in command of a
small mixed force of Canadian tanks, self-propelled anti-tank guns and infantry which
was ordered to cut one of the main escape routes from the Falaise pocket.
This force was held up by strong enemy resistance in the village of St. Lambertsur-Dives, and two tanks were knocked out by 88 mm. guns. Major Currie immediately
entered the village alone on foot at last light through the enemy outposts to reconnoiter
the German defences and extricate the crews of the disabled tanks, which he succeeded
in doing in spite of heavy mortar fire.
Early the following morning, without any previous artillery bombardment, Major
Currie personally led an attack on the village in the face of fierce opposition from enemy
tanks, guns and infantry, and by noon had succeeded in seizing and consolidating a
position half-way inside of the village.
During the next 36 hours the Germans hurled one counter-attack after another
against the Canadian force, but so skillfully had Major Currie organized his defensive
position that these attacks were repulsed with severe casualties to the enemy after heavy
fighting.
On one occasion, he personally directed the fire of his command tank on to a
Tiger tank which had been harassing his position and succeeded in knocking it out.
During another attack, while the guns of his command tank were taking on other targets
at longer ranges, he used a rifle from the turret to deal with individual snipers who had
infiltrated to within 50 yards of his headquarters. The only time reinforcements were able
to get through to his force, he himself led the 40 men forward to their positions and
explained the importance of their task as part of the defence.
When, during the next attack, these new reinforcements withdrew
under the intense fire brought down by the enemy, he personally
collected them and led them forward into position again, where,
inspired by his leadership, they held for the remainder of the battle.
His employment of the artillery support, which became available
after his original attack went in, was typical of his cool calculation
of the risks involved in every situation. At one time, despite the fact that short rounds
were falling within fifteen yards of his own tank, he ordered fire from medium artillery to
continue because of its devastating effect upon the attacking enemy in his immediate
area.
At dusk on the 20th August the Germans attempted to mount a final assault on the
Canadian positions, but the attacking force was routed before it could even be deployed.
Seven enemy tanks, 12 88 mm. guns and 40 vehicles were destroyed, 300 Germans
were killed, 500 wounded and 2,100 captured. Major Currie then promptly ordered an
attack and completed the capture of the village, thus denying the Chambois-Trun escape
route to the remnants of two German Armies cut off in the Falaise pocket.. Throughout
three days and nights of fierce fighting, Major Currie's gallant conduct and contempt for
danger set a magnificent example to all ranks of the force under his command
Throughout the operations the casualties to Major Currie's force were heavy.
However, he never considered the possibility of failure or allowed it to enter the minds of
38
his men. In the words of one of his non-commissioned officers, 'We knew at one stage
that it was going to be a fight to the finish but he was so cool about it, it was impossible
for us to get excited.' Since all the officers under his command were either killed or
wounded during the action, Major Currie virtually had no respite from his duties and in
fact obtained only one hour's sleep during the entire period. Nevertheless he did not
permit his fatigue to become apparent to his troops and throughout the action took every
opportunity to visit weapon pits and other defensive posts to talk to his men, to advise
them as to the best use of their weapons and to cheer them with words of
encouragement. When his force was finally relieved and he was satisfied that the
turnover was complete he fell asleep on his feet and collapsed.
There can be no doubt that the success of the attack on and stand against the
enemy at St. Lambert-sur-Dives can largely be attributed to this officer's coolness,
inspired leadership and skillful use of the limited weapons at his disposal. The courage
and devotion to duty shown by Major Currie during a prolonged period of heavy fighting
were outstanding and had a far-reaching effect on the successful outcome of the battle."
BRETTEVILLE-SUR-LAIZE CANADIAN WAR CEMETERY (FRANCE)
This cemetery holds 2,782 known Canadians who died in the last stages of the
Normandy campaign and the capture of Caen and Falaise. It is located on the west side
of the main road (N158) from Caen to Falaise, about 14 kms. south of Caen.
http://battlefieldsww2.50megs.com/bretteville_canadian_war_cemetery.htm
ABBAYE D’ARDENNE
As many as 156 Canadian prisoners of war are believed to have
been executed by the 12th SS Panzer Division (the Hitler Youth) in the
days and weeks following the D-Day landings. In scattered groups, in
various pockets of the Normandy countryside, they were taken aside
and shot.
A total of 20 Canadians were executed near Villons-les-Buissons
in the Abbaye d'Ardenne, a massive collection of mediaeval buildings -- including an
early Gothic church and several farm buildings -- encircled by walls and surrounded by
grainfields. This was where Kurt Meyer, Commander of the 25th Panzer Grenadier
Regiment (of the 12th Panzer Division), had established his headquarters.
On June 7, the Germans were counter-attacking the Allies in force. The North
Nova Scotia Highlanders, supported by tanks from the 27th Canadian Armoured
Regiment (CAR -- the Sherbrooke Fusiliers), were engaged in heavy fighting around
Authie. Several of the CAR tanks were disabled and the infantry was overwhelmed. (A
street corner in southern Authie was named Place des 37 Canadiens in honour of the 37
Canadians killed there that day.)
The abbey quickly filled with POWs captured during and after the fighting. Ten of
them were randomly picked and dispatched to the chateau adjacent to the abbey; the
rest were moved to Bretteville-sur-Odon. An 11th POW, Private Hollis McKeil of B
Company of the North Nova Scotia Highlanders, had been wounded in the fighting near
Buron and also remained behind. That evening, the 11 POWs were taken to the
chateau's garden and killed. Several months later, six of the bodies were discovered with
39
crushing blows to the head. Four more were also found afterwards; it was evident they
had been shot in the head. McKeil was also later found to have suffered the same fate.
http://www.valourandhorror.com/DB/ISSUE/Abbaye/
LE MESNIL PATRY
In and around this small Norman village, some of the
fiercest fighting took place during the first week following DDay. The village has an impressive monument to the
Canadians who fell here liberating the village.
http://warchronicle.com/canadian_third_div/historiantales_w
wii/victorycampaignmesnil.htm
ARROMANCHES-LES-BAINS
This small town, (population 500) 31 kms. northwest
of Caen, was the site for some ferocious fighting after D-Day.
In the bay, some elements of the floating harbour are still
visible. Eighteen old ships and 115 huge cement blocks were
towed across the Channel to create a seven mile long
breakwater and harbour for landing 54,000 vehicles and
500,000 troops in six days. The Musee du Debarquement,
on the seafront, has models, mock-ups, and photographs depicting Operation Overlord –
the codename for the Normandy invasion.
Arromanches 360 is a striking modern movie theatre with a 360 degree screen,
synchronized to show an 18 minute film entitled ―The Price of Freedom.‖ The small town
has lot of eating establishments along its one main street close to the harbour.
www.normandie1944.fr/
LONGUES SUR MER
Situated west of Arromanches-les-Bains in Normandy,
Longues-sur-Mer overlooked the ocean from the top of a 65
meters height cliff, a perfect position where the Germans had
installed a four 155 mm guns battery. On 6 June 1944, at 5:30
am several allied battle ships opened fire on the battery. When
the Allied Armada was on sight, the German heavy guns struck
back. The HMS Ajax concentrated its fire on the German battery at one kilometre range.
The battery stopped bombing a short time, but fire started again and the position shelled
the landing ships until 5 pm. The battery surrendered to the British troops the next day
with the 184 men garrison.
The battery is quite well preserved as a stark reminder of what happened here on
D-Day.
http://web.ukonline.co.uk/gaz/longues.html
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OMAHA BEACH
Located 16 kms. from Bayeux, this was one of the five beaches (Omaha, Utah,
Gold, Juno, Sword) that marked the focal points on June 6. The place chosen for the
amphibious assault was certainly not ideal for the purpose and presented many risks, but
it was the only possibility between Gold, the British sector to the east, and Utah, the other
American beach, further west on the Cotentin coast. Between Grandcamp and
Arromanches, the Bessin region is bordered by sheer limestone cliffs rising twenty or
thirty metres above the sea. In front of the villages of Vierville, Saint-Laurent and
Colleville, however, there is a six or seven-kilometre gap, where the cliffs give way to
bluffs intersected by gullies providing access to the beaches
Because of its topography the site was easy to defend. There were no fewer than
fourteen resistance nests located mainly at the entrance to the gullies leading from the
shore to the plateau, which were also blocked by antitank walls. The Germans had
covered the entire area with guns, machine-gun nests, mortars, minefields and barbed
wire.
In March 1944, the beach was given the codename Omaha, a city in the state of
Nebraska. Three months later, it went down in the history books as ―Bloody Omaha‖
because of the terrible losses suffered there by V US Corps, made up of the 1 st Infantry
Division under Major-General Huebner and the 29th Infantry Division under Major-General
Gerhardt.
Landing at 6.30 am, the first waves were greeted by heavy fire and pinned down
on the beach. The previous night’s aerial bombardments, like the firing by the naval
artillery immediately prior to the assault, turned out to have been extremely ineffectual.
The German defences had remained practically untouched and raked the beach with fire,
mowing down their attackers. To make matters worse, almost all the amphibious tanks
sank before reaching the beach, thereby depriving the infantry of vital covering fire. As
the hours went by, the situation inexorably deteriorated. As the tide rose, the beach
become increasingly crowded with bodies borne in by the waves, countless wounded and
the smoking carcasses of vehicles destroyed by shellfire. As the engineers responsible
for removing all the underwater obstacles had been decimated by enemy fire, many
incoming barges bringing reinforcements crashed into the poles and detonated the
mines.
After an ordeal lasting several hours, the American soldiers at long last gained the
upper hand. By the evening of D-Day, the Omaha bridgehead was scarcely two
kilometres deep. The operation which had begun so badly had ultimately been a success,
although a very heavy price had been paid. The losses totalled more than 3,000 men
(fifteen times more than on Utah Beach), including – officially – a thousand dead.
At the conclusion of the fighting in Normandy, there were more than ten American
cemeteries on the battlefield, with hundreds of small burial grounds and isolated graves.
The American Battle Monuments Commission (AMBC) repatriated at least 60% of these
burials back to the United States, and concentrated the remaining casualties into two
main cemeteries; one here in Normandy and another in Britanny.
41
To a size of 172.5 acres, the Normandy American Cemetery has 9,387 burials
of US service men and women. Of this number, some 307 are unknowns, three are
Medal of Honour winners including Brig. Gen. Theodore Roosevelt (Block D, Row 28,
Grave 45); four are women
. In addition there are 33 pairs of brothers buried side by side, including Robert
and Preston Niland (F, 15, 11 & 12) on whom ―Savings Private Ryan‖ was loosely based
It is the largest American Cemetery from WW2, but not the largest in Europe: that is the
Meuse-Argonne Cemetery from WW1 with more than 14,000 burials.
The main body of the cemetery is rectangular with the main paths laid out in the
pattern of a Latin cross. On entering the cemetery, visit first the Visitors Building where
veterans can sign the Veteran's Book, and all others the main Visitors Book. Here you
can also trace US servicemen and women who are in the care of AMBC either in
cemeteries or on memorials. You can also pick up a free leaflet about the cemetery.
Then proceed to the Memorial, the main feature of which is a 22 foot bronze
statue "The Sprit of American Youth Rising From The Waves". Either side of this are
huge wall maps showing the campaign in the European Theatre of Operations (ETO).
Behind the statue is the Garden of the Missing which commemorates a further 1,557
soldiers, sailors and airmen who fell in Normandy and have no known grave. Those who
remains have been found since the war are indicated with an asterisk. The servicemen
commemorated here represent all but one of the 50 States.
From here enter the main body of the cemetery and follow the path to The Chapel. This
is built from limestone and the main inscription inside reads "I Give Unto Them Eternal
Life and They Shall Never Perish".
The cemetery borders on the left flank of Omaha Beach and overlooks the sector
where the 1st Division landed on D Day. There is a Viewing Platform with a useful map,
and paths which take you down the slopes and onto the beach - although it is a long
walk.
http://battlefieldsww2.50megs.com/normandy_american_cemetery.htm
POINTE DU HOC
The World War II Pointe du Hoc Ranger Monument is located on a cliff eight miles
west of Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial, which overlooks Omaha Beach. It
was erected by the French to honor elements of the American Second Ranger Battalion
under the command of Lieutenant Colonel James E. Rudder. During the American
assault of Omaha Beach on June 6, 1944, these elements scaled the 100-foot cliff and
seized the German artillery pieces that could have fired on the American landing troops
at Omaha Beach. At a high cost of life, they successfully defended against determined
German counterattacks.
The monument consists of a simple granite pylon positioned atop a German concrete
bunker with tablets at its base inscribed in French and English. The monument was
formally transferred to the American Battle Monuments Commission for perpetual care
and maintenance on January 11, 1979. This battle-scarred area on the left flank of
Omaha Beach remains much as the Rangers left it.
42
It was a nearly 100-meter-high cliff, with perpendicular sides jutting out into the
Channel. It looked down on Utah Beach to the left and Omaha Beach to the right. There
were six 155mm cannon in heavily reinforced concrete bunkers that were capable of
hitting either beach with their big shells. On the outermost edge of the cliff, the Germans
had an elaborate, well-protected outpost, where the spotters had a perfect view and
could call back coordinates to the gunners at the 155s. Those guns had to be neutralized.
The Allied bombardment of Pointe-du-Hoc had begun weeks before D-Day. Heavy
bombers from the U.S. Eighth Air Force and British Bomber Command had repeatedly
plastered the area, with a climax coming before dawn on June 6. Then the battleship
Texas took up the action, sending dozens of 14-inch shells into the position. Altogether,
Pointe-du-Hoc got hit by more than ten kilotons of high explosives, the equivalent of the
explosive power of the atomic bomb used at Hiroshima. Texas lifted her fire at 0630, the
moment the rangers were scheduled to touch down.
Col. James Earl Rudder was in the lead boat. He was not supposed to be there.
Lt. Gen. Clarence Huebner, CO of the 1st Division and in overall command at Omaha
Beach, had forbidden Rudder to lead D, E, and F Companies of the 2nd Rangers into
Pointe-du-Hoc, saying, "We're not going to risk getting you knocked out in the first round."
"I'm sorry to have to disobey you, sir," Rudder had replied, "but if I don't take it, it may not
go."
At the end of the 2-day action, the landing force of 225 was reduced to about 90 men
who could still fight.
http://www.worldwar2history.info/D-Day/Pointe-Du-Hoc.html
LA CAMBE GERMAN CEMETERY (FRANCE)_
This cemetery, located near Omaha Beach, contains 21,160 German graves,
including 296 in a mass grave under the grassed mound in the centre of the cemetery..
The impression here is one of solemnity and of sadness, a typical reaction in the German
military cemeteries. Inside the cemetery are small groups of black stone crosses. These
are symbolic and do not mark graves. The graves are marked by flat stones engraved
with the names of those below – often four or more together. The most notable grave is
that of SS Obersturmfuhrer Michael Wittmann, (Block 47, Row 3, Grave 121) credited
with destroying more than 130 Allied tanks in World War II, before Canadian tanks put an
end to his career. Wittmann was the most highly decorated German tank commander in
World War Two. He was awarded the Oak Leaves and Swords to embellish his Knight’s
Cross, the highest order of the Iron Cross.
In the modern building of the exhibition, just outside the cemetery entrance, there
are many moving displays of photographs of soldiers (German and Allied) who died in
Normandy, with extracts from letters and other personal documents. Panels describe the
cemeteries in Normandy and there is a computer where visitors can freely look up the
burial site of all soldiers on both sides who are commemorated in Normandy.
http://battlefieldsww2.50megs.com/la_cambe_german_cemetery.htm
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WIMEREUX COMMUNAL CEMETERY (FRANCE)
Wimereux is a town in the Pas-de-Calais, on the coast about five kilometres north
of Boulogne. During World War I, this was an important hospital centre. The cemetery
has 200 Canadians, including Dr. John McCrae.
http://www.webmatters.net/cwgc/wimereux_com.htm
THE NETHERLANDS
The Liberation of the Netherlands, from September 1944 to April 1945, played a
key role in the culmination of the Second World War, as the Allied forces closed in on
Germany from all sides. The First Canadian Army played a major role in the liberation of
the Dutch people who had suffered terrible hunger and hardship under the increasingly
desperate German occupiers.
The flooded, muddy terrain and the tenacity of the well-fortified German defences
made the Battle of the Scheldt especially gruelling and bloody. Indeed, the battle is
considered by some historians to have been waged on the most difficult battlefield of the
Second World War. At the end of the five-week offensive, the victorious First Canadian
Army had taken 41,043 prisoners, but suffered 12,873 casualties (killed, wounded, or
missing), 6,367 of whom were Canadians .
Following the conclusion of the Battle of the Scheldt in November 1944, winter
brought a period of reduced fighting in anticipation of the push over the Rhine River in the
new year. When the new Allied offensives began in 1945, the First Canadian Army
helped liberate the northeastern and western Netherlands, until the German Army
officially surrendered in early May.
More than 7,600 Canadians died in the nine-month campaign to liberate the
Netherlands, a tremendous sacrifice in the cause of freedom .
ARNHEM (OOSTERBEEK) WAR CEMETERY (THE NETHERLANDS)
Arnhem is the capital of the Province of Gelderland; Oosterbeek is a village
suburb about seven kilometres from the city centre. It was in this area that the British 1 st
Airborne Division landed in September, 1944 in their vain attempt to capture and hold the
bridge over the Lower Rhine at Arnhem. The division made a stand within a gradually
shrinking perimeter at Oosterbeek, holding out until all hope of relief by troops advancing
from the south was abandoned and their supplies and ammunition were running out.
Many of those who died were buried at Oosterbeek in a cemetery with over 1,600 British,
and 33 Canadians. There is an excellent museum nearby depicting the fighting at
Arnhem.
http://battlefieldsww2.50megs.com/oosterbeek_war_cemetery.htm
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GROESBEEK CANADIAN WAR CEMETERY (THE NETHERLANDS)
Many of those buried here are Canadian who died in the
heavy fighting in the battle of the Rhineland in February-March,
1945. The cemetery is unusual in that many of the dead were
brought here from nearby Germany – one of the few cases where
bodies were moved across international frontiers. So far as can be
ascertained, all slain Canadian soldiers of the Rhineland battles,
who were buried in German battlefields, were reinterred here. General Crerar who
commanded Canadian forces in Europe, ordered that Canadian dead were not to be
buried in German soil.
The cemetery contains the largest number of Canadians, 2,350, interred in the
Netherlands and there are also 265 British burials. As it is the ―open‖ cemetery from the
Netherlands, these figures are slowly rising.
http://battlefieldsww2.50megs.com/groesbeek_war_cemetery.htm
Sergeant Aubrey Cosens was awarded the Victoria Cross (see following citation) and is
buried in VIII, H, 2:
―In Holland on the night of 25th-26th February 1945, the 1st
Battalion, The Queen's Own Rifles of Canada launched an attack on
the hamlet of Mooshof, to capture ground which was considered
essential for the development of future operations.
Sergeant Cosens' platoon, with two tanks in support, attacked
enemy strong points in three farm buildings, but were twice beaten
back by fanatical enemy resistance and then fiercely counter-attacked,
during which time the platoon suffered heavy casualties and the
platoon commander was killed.
Sergeant Cosens at once assumed command of the only other
four survivors of his platoon, whom he placed in a position to give him
covering fire, while he himself ran across open ground under heavy
mortar and shell fire to the one remaining tank, where, regardless of the danger, he took
up an exposed place in front of the turret and directed his fire.
After a further enemy counter-attack had been repulsed, Sergeant Cosens
ordered the tank to attack the farm buildings, while the four survivors of his platoon
followed in close support. After the tank had rammed the first building he entered it alone,
killing several of the defenders and taking the rest prisoner.
Single-handed he then entered the second and third buildings, and personally
killed or captured all the occupants, although under intense machine-gun and small arms
fire. Just after the successful reduction of these important enemy strong points, Sergeant
Cosens was shot through the head by an enemy sniper and died almost instantly.
The outstanding gallantry, initiative and determined leadership of this brave N.C.O., who
himself killed at least 20 of the enemy and took an equal number of prisoners, resulted in
the capture of a position which was vital to the success of the future operations of the
Brigade."
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Holten Canadian War Cemetery
Holten is the site of one of the three Canadian war
graves cemeteries in the Netherlands maintained by the
Commonwealth War Graves Commission. Holten
Canadian War Cemetery is northeast of Arnhem, the
site of a disastrous British paratroop attack.
Buried at Holten are those who died in the closing stages of the 11-month
campaign in northwest Europe. After the end of the hostilities, the remains of
those killed were brought together in this cemetery. Nearly every unit of the 1st
and 2nd Corps is represented in the cemetery. There are 1,355 Canadians buried
here (including one sailor and three airmen).
The ceremony at Holten Canadian War Cemetery is an annual tradition, which is
conducted by the Dutch and centres on local schoolchildren.
The Liberation of Holten
The attack for control of Holten began at 9:30 a.m., Sunday April 8, 1945. With a
German defence stronger than anticipated, the centre of Holten was not reached
as soon as expected. It was house-to-house combat for the Canadians: the
Calgary Highlanders, Le Regiment de Maisonneuve and the Black Watch of
Canada, with support from the Fort Garry Horse armoured regiment. The town
was clear by 8 p.m. that night, and the Canadians continued en route to
Groningen.
They shall grow not old, as we that are left grow old;
Age shall not weary them, nor the years condemn.
At the going down of the sun and in the morning
We will remember them.
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