Textiles 8/20 • We can learn about a population from what they wore just as we learn from the tools and other gear they used on a regular basis • In many cultures the clothing worn was indicative of the social status achieved by various members of their society. • People represent themselves through textiles – clothing, for example, says something about someone's personality. Ancient Egyptian clothingLinen Fiber 8/21 • The smallest strand that can be unraveled or untwisted from a textile • Raw material, either natural or synthetic • A fine, hair-like strand • Basic building block of fabric • Each fiber has its own advantages and disadvantages • No perfect fiber that will adequately serve every general design purpose exists. Abaca known globally as Hemp (natural) Polyester -Synthetic Natural fibers 8/22 • Found in nature and require little or no processing • plants -cotton, linen, ramie • Animals – silk, wool 8/23 cellulosic Plant fibers include stems, leaves, and seed hairs found in plants Cotton Flax -Linen Jute Ramie flax Jute Natural Animal Fibers 8/24 SILK • Natural protein fiber from the silkworm • Sericulture or silk production • For more than 2,000 years the Chinese kept the secret of silk to themselves, it was the most guarded secret in history • When silk was first discovered, it was reserved exclusively for the use of the ruler WOOL • Natural protein fiber-possibly the first animal fiber to be made into cloth • Made primarily from the fleece (hair) of sheep and lambs • Crude wool fabrics have been found in the ruins of the Stone Age • Years ago people knew that the fleece of sheep was softer and warmer then the skins of other animals Mineral Fiber 8/27 • Asbestos • Comes from deep in the earth’s crust • Found in veins or cracks of solid rock • Fibers are resistant to fire, heat, and acid • Nonconductor of electricity –was used in insulation • Is now banned in US because it was found to cause cancer-banned in 1989 Selvage 8/28 • Selvage- the woven edge of fabric, running parallel to the warp. The selvage keeps the textile from fraying. It is often used to identify the manufacturer or provide a color check. Selvage Grain in Fabric 8/29 • effects the way fabric will hang and drape • refers to the way threads are arranged in a piece of fabric • Lengthwise grain runs parallel to the selvage-strongest and most stable • Crosswise grain runs perpendicular to the selvage of the fabric or the cut edge of the fabric as it comes off the bolt. • Bias grain runs on a 45 degree angle to the selvage Warp 8/30 • Warp- in weaving, the yarns placed on the loom first. They run lengthwise on the fabric. • Weft or filling yarns are woven over and under the warp yarns. WEFT 8/31 • Weft- The crosswise filling yarns that are interwoven with the lengthwise warp yarns to make a fabric. Yarn 9/4 • Fibers that are twisted or assembled together to form a continuous strand that can be made into a textile fabric. • are made by spinning various lengths of fibers into strands • 3 common methods of making fabric from yarn are weaving, knitting, and bonding/felting PLAIN WEAVE 9/5 • Plain Weave- The most used basic weave. Each filling yarn alternates crossing over and under each warp yarn. Like a window screen or a tennis racket. Basket Weave 9/6 • Similar to Plain Weave, but 2 weft threads are interlaced with two warp threads. TWILL WEAVE 9/7 • Twill Weave- One of three basic weaves. Recognized by the diagonal “twill line” or “rib” visible in the finished fabric. • Denim is an example of a twill weave SATIN WEAVE • The distance the yarn covers is called a “float.” Because of these long “floats” the satin weave is flat, smooth, and lustrous. • Usually made of silk or manmade fibers that give a lustrous, shiny appearance. • Because of the floats, the fabric often snags 9/10 Un-Cut Pile Weave 9/11 • Produced by additional threads in the weft and warp that form loops or tufts of yarn that stand out form the surface of the fabric. Terry cloth Cut-Pile Weave 9/12 • 3 dimensional structure made by weaving an extra set of warp or filling yarns with the ground yarns so that cut yarn loops create a pile Velvet Leno Weave • a locking type weave in which two or more warp yarns cross over each other and interlace with one or more filling yarns. • used primarily to prevent shifting of yarns in open fabrics. • Sheers, semi sheers, and casements (coarsely woven sheers 9/13 Jacquard Weave 9/14 • Large-figured designs that require more than 25 different arrangements of the warp yarns to complete one repeat design • Woven on Jacquard loom • Fabrics include: brocade, damask, tapestry • Invented in 1801 by Joseph Marie Jacquard who was a silk weaver Antique silk damask Antique guiled French chair with silk brocade Jacquard Loom 9/14 • First machine to use Wooden Punch cards which Controlled the weaving in a continuous strip . Cotton 9/17 • Scientists have found fiber and boll fragments from the Tehuacán Valley of Mexico from about 7000 years ago • has been grown and used in India for at least 5000 years and probably for much longer • Used in early Rome • one of the earliest crops grown by European settlers, having been planted at the Jamestown colony in 1607 • Most plentiful of natural fibers • Plays a major role in everyday life Cotton boll seeds COTTON FACTS-from South Carolina cotton Museum 9/18 • US paper currency is a blend of 75% cotton lint and 25% linen. A 480 pound bale of cotton can be made into 313,600 $100.00 bills! • Sheer cotton muslin, woven in ancient India, was so fine that 73 yards of it weighed one pound! • In ancient Egypt, only the High Priest was allowed to wear a cotton garment • Mills in Lancashire, England exported 7,000,000,000 yards of cotton fabric in 1913. That's an amazing 221.97 yards per second! • To grow the fiber for one cotton diaper requires 105.3 gallons of water • one T-shirt needs 256.6 gallons of water • one bath towel needs 401.4 gallons of water • a man's dress shirt requires 414.5 gallons of water • and 987 gallons of water are required for one pair of jeans. Cotton Gin 9/19 • designed and constructed by Eli Whitney (Yale) in 1793 • machine that automated the separation of cottonseed from the short-staple cotton fiber (50 lbs. daily) • Gin is short for engine Cotton 9/20 Advantages Disadvantages • Takes and holds color well • Washes easily, easy care, comfortable • Can be woven into sheer or heavy weight fabric • Flexibility • Not damaged by sunlight and most chemicals • Not as durable as other fibers • Wrinkles easily • Can mildew and fade • Absorbs moisture easily • Cost varies according to quality of fiber, weave, ad finish Quality of Cotton Fiber 9/21 • Determined by 3 factors • Color of ginned cotton (cotton fibers separated from cottonseed 1. Color ranges from white to yellow white 2. White, Light Spotted, Spotted Tinged, Yellow Stained • Purity(absence of foreign matter) and quality of ginning process • Length of fibers (inherited genetic characteristic of the seed variety) weather ,nutrient deficiencies and excessive cleaning may affect fiber length • USDA rates cotton O Organic Cotton 9/24 • grown using methods and • materials that have a low impact on the environment • • Produced following state-fibercertification standards where organic farming practices have been used for at least 3 years • No synthetic commercial pesticides or fertilizers are used • Twice as expensive as conventional cotton Additional costs related to lower fiber yield per acre, requirements for processing in facilities free of harmful chemicals and smaller quantities of fibers processed represents 0.76 percent of global cotton production. (2009) ORGANIC COTTONSEED 9/25 • used for animal feed • Organic cottonseed oil is used in a variety of food products, including cookies and chips. EGYPTAIN COTTON 9/26 • comes ONLY from Egypt where the humid conditions and rich soil along the Nile River Valley create the perfect conditions to grow long cotton fibers • falls under the classification of an ELS (extra-long staple) cotton • Fiber staples can range from 1 1/2 inches to 2 1/4 inches. (about twice the size of other cotton fibers which allows fibers to be spun into very fine yarns • Highest quality is a fabric count of 1000 to 1200 • Softer and more durable than other cotton • American version of Egyptian cotton is known as Pima cotton. (Pima Indian Reservation in Arizona in early 1900’s to meet demand for quality long staple cotton Egyptian cotton logo was trademark ed in 2001 LINEN 9/27 • Made from flax fibers (found in the stem of the flax plant) • oldest of all fabric • evidence has been found in Swiss lake dwellings dating from 8000 B.C. • ancient Greece-evidence of a linen industry is shown on 4,000 year-old tablets • Bast fiber – from the stem of the plant • lightweight and breathable fabric • More expensive than cotton • since 1970, linen fabric production for apparel has increased from 5% to 70%. • Today, Western Europe, Ireland in particular, dominates flax and linen production in both quantity and quality. LINEN 9/28 Advantages • Strong, especially when wet • Comfortable, pliable, lustrous • Not damaged by sunlight and chemicals • Washable • Takes and holds color • Absorbent Disadvantages • Wrinkles easily if not chemically treated • Fades • stiff • Difficult to clean • Absorbs moisture easily Staple Fiber 9/27 • Any natural or manufactured fiber produced in or cut to a short length measured in inches or centimeters cut crimped Filament 9/28 • Refers to fibers that are extremely long • Made from long, continuous strands of fiber • Made from manufactured fibers • Only natural filament is silk Filament and Staple 10/1 RAMIE 10/2 • Also known as rhea, grasscloth, and China grass • Been used for several thousand years in China • A tall perennial plant that requires a hot, humid climate • Fast growing and can be harvested every 60 days • Has to be cut, not pulled • Has been grown in the Everglades and Gulf Coast regions of US, but not currently • Produced in China, Philippines and Brazil Ramie 10/2 • bast fiber – part of a plant stem • one of oldest textile fibers – used in mummy cloths in ancient Egypt during the period 5000-3000B.C. • Very durable • long, fine fibers are naturally white and lustrous with an almost silky appearance. • requires chemical processing to de-gum the fiber. • Blends are more common than pure ramie - most typical is 55 %ramie/45 % cotton • Blends - available in woven and sweater knit form. (Cotton and wool) RAMIE 10/3 Advantages • High absorbency • Greater strength when wet • holds shape well , • Introduces a silky luster to the fabric appearance Disadvantages • possesses little elasticity and is somewhat brittle and stiff which causes fiber breakage where creased or folded repeatedly • Wrinkles easily • Will not dye as well as cotton 10/4 VELCRO® • brand name of fabric hookand-loop fasteners which have been used for 50 years • consists of two layers: a "hook" side, which is a piece of fabric covered with tiny hooks, and a "loop" side, which is covered with even smaller and "hairier" loops. X 20 magnification Terry cloth 10/5 • A slack-tension, warpyarn pile fabric with loops on one of both sides of the fabric. Two sets of warps and one set of filling yarns are used. It may have a jacquard pattern. JUTE 10/5 • Used in Biblical times • 61% cellulose • One of cheapest fibers • Grown throughout Asia-chiefly India and Bangladesh • Primary fibers are short and brittle • One of weakest of the cellulosic fibers • Creamy white to brown in color • Used to produce coffee bags carpet backing, rope and twine 10/8 Microban® • antimicrobial protection (microbes can double in number every 20 minutes) • built-in to products during the manufacturing process to provide continuous antimicrobial protection • fights the growth of odor causing bacteria, mold and mildew to keep fabrics cleaner and fresher for the useful life of the fabric Manufactured/ Synthetic Fibers 10/9 • Originally designed to improve the quality, durability, and ease of care of fibers • Designed to resist soil, mildew, and insects • Made from substances such as wood pulp, petroleum, and coal • Produced in labs through chemical processes • Mimic natural fibers because they look, feel, and act like them • Have many desirable characteristics: generally strong, have ability to spring back to their original shape, don’t wrinkle and are easy to care for Manufactured/Synthetic Fibers 10/10 • During the past 5 decades, production and consumption has steadily increased • Today over 80% of fibers used • Comprise 75% of U.S. textile market • Used for: Apparel • Furnishings • Medical applications • Construction • Transportation • Aerospace applications • Environmental applications Synthetic Fiber Production 10/11 • Made from chemicals synthesized from petroleum by-products and other chemicals • Chemists discovered that when a glass rod was pulled away from a chemical compound, it formed a fine filament that was strong, elastic, and flexible • Are produced in similar way • Thick syrupy liquid is forced through tiny holes in a spinneret • Each tiny hole produces a fiber • A spinneret can produce a few dozen fibers or as many as several thousands at a time Manufactured Re-generated Fibers 10/12 • Produced from natural materials such as wood pulp and other plants and require some chemical processing • Rayon, Acetate and Lyocell, are the most common First known as “Artificial Silk” Manufactured regenerated fibers 10/15 • Produced from naturally occurring polymers (very large molecule made by connecting many small molecules) • Polymers do not occur naturally as fibers and processing is needed to convert them into fiber form • Starting material is cellulose and protein • 3 regenerated cellulosic fibers : rayon, lyocell and acetate Rayon 10/16 • First commercially successful manufactured regenerated fiber • Cellulose fiber regenerated from wood pulp • Production began around the beginning of 20th Century • 1910 • Referred to as “Artificial Silk” • Name RAYON was not officially adopted until 1924 • Called VISCOSE IN Europe • Used in apparel- from lingerie to suits, dresses, and sportswear • Often blended with polyester Acetate 10/17 • Originated in Europe • Dreyfus brothers experimented with acetate in Switzerland • Brothers moved to England during WWI –acetate was used as a coating for the fabric wings of WWI airplanes • After war-they perfected the process of making acetate fibers • 1924 became the 2nd manufactured derivative cellulose fiber in U.S. • Dry spun methodpolymers are dissolved in a solvent of acetate to be formed into fibers • First thermoplastic (heatsensitive fiber) • Fabric melts under a hot iron Lyocell 10/18 • Developed by Courtlands, a European fiber manufacturer • Introduced in early 1990’s as a type of Rayon-1992 • Development was prompted by a concern about Rayon’s negative impact on the environment • First produced under brand name Tencel • Solvent spinning – cellulosic starting material (wood pulp) is directly dissolved in an organic solvent- fiber is regenerated from that solvent • Produced in both Europe and U.S. • Properties are more like cotton than any other regenerated fiber POLYESTER 10/19 • English researchers experimented and manufactured polyester fibers called Terylene • Introduced to U.S. in 1951 under name of Dacron • Dupont bought the English patent and started manufactured polyester in March 1953 • Often referred to as the workhorse fiber of the industry • most widely used synthetic fiber in U.S. • Used alone or blended with other fibers • Used for apparel and furnishings • First use of polyester filament fibers was in knit shirts for men and boluses for women ACRYLIC 10/22 • Synthetic fiber • Developed in the 1940’s • Both dry and wet spinning methods are used • Have been called the “warmth without weight” • Wet spun fibers can have crosssections varying from round to bean shape • Dry spun methods have a dogbone shape • Fibers are soft, warm, lightweight and resilient • Fabricated into woven and knitted fabric construction • Often blended with other fibers especially wool • Good fiber for sweaters, suits, coats, and socks • Superior to wool in their easycare properties and are nonallergenic • Declined from 15% to 5% of world fiber production • Manufacturing has moved from U.S and Europe to China, Taiwan, and India ACRYLIC 10/23 Advantages Disadvantages • Resists wrinkling during use and care • Mildew, microorganisms, and moths will not harm acrylic • Lower cost competitor for wool • Resistant to sunlight – superior to polyester and nylon • Shrink when exposed to high temperatures • Will “pill” • Low moisture absorbency • Generate static electricity Nylon • First synthetic fiber and first fiber developed in U.S. • Inventor was Wallace Carothers – chemist working for Dupont Company in 1928 (research program) • Generic name NYLON was proposed in 1938 by Dupont • First nylon product a nylon bristle toothbrush which went on sale on Feb. 24, 1938 • Women’s stockings went on sale on May 15, 1940 10/24 • became unavailable to civilian consumers, because nylon was used extensively during WW II (1939-1945) • During WW II Nylon replaced Asian silk in parachutes • Also used to make tires, tents, ropes, ponchos and other military supplies • Could be heat-set and permanent pleats became a reality NYLON 10/25 ADVANTAGES • • • • • Strong and Elastic Easy to launder Dries quickly Retains its shape Resilient and responsive to heat setting • Resistant to damage from oils DISADVANTAGES • Extensive washing and drying in a dryer can lead to piling • White Nylon should be washed separately to avoid it turning gray • Has a tendency to “Scavenge” colors picking up surface color easily from other fabrics POLYESTER 10/29 Advantages • • • • Good strength Wrinkle resistant Mildew resistant Retains heat-set pleats and crease • Resistant to stretching and shrinking • Easily washed –quick drying • Polyester is extensively recycledproducts made from recycled polyester include apparel and carpeting Disadvantages • Lack absorption • Consumers like recycled polyester, but the cost is usually higher SPANDEX 10/30 • First manufactured elastic fiber was introduced in 1958 and called Lycra • Known as elastane in many other parts of the world • Superior to rubber in strength and durability • Name was coined by shifting the syllables of the word expands SPANDEX 10/31 Advantages Disadvantages • Spandex is resistant to the body oils, perspiration, lotions and cosmetics that degrade rubber. • Has a good shelf life and does not deteriorate with age as quickly as rubber • Extended exposure to light may cause discoloration of some types of white spandex but does not deteriorate the fiber seriously • Should not be subjected to very hot water or excessive heat from ironing Uses of Spandex 10/31 • used to support, shape, or mold the body or to keep textiles from stretching out of shape during use • Used primarily in knit foundation garments, action wear, intimate apparel, shape wear, hosiery, furnishings and narrow fabrics • Medical uses-surgical and support hose, bandages, and surgical wraps • Blends of 2% to 40% spandex with other fibers are common • Spandex yarns are woven or knitted Olefin Nov. 1 • In the 1920’s attempts were made to polymerize ethylene, a byproduct of the natural gas industry • WW II ethylene was polymerized and used as a plastic-filaments made from it could not be used in textile fibers • 1954 in Germany, Karl Ziegler developed a process that raised the melting point- but it still did not work • Giulio Natta (Italy) successfully developed the process suitable for most textile applications • By 1957 Italy produced olefin fibers • US produced olefin fibers in the 1960 OLEFIN 11/2 • AUTOMOTIVE Interior fabrics-used in or on kick panel seat construction, truck liners OLEFIN 11/2 • INDUSTRIAL Carpets, disposable lab coats, durable nonwoven fabrics; ropes, Olefin Fiber Uses 11/5 • APPAREL activewear and sportswear socks, thermal underwear, lining fabrics OLEFIN 11/5 • Home Furnishings Indoor/outdoor carpet; carpet backing, upholstery and wall coverings, furniture and bedding construction fabrics Glass Fiber • Incombustible textile fiber-it does not burn • Used in draperies for public buildings where there is a danger of fire • Disadvantage: skin irritation from tiny broken glass fibers • It is thought that the Phoenicians first produced glass fiber • First commercial use-1920 • Materials to make glass: sand, silica and limestone combined with additives of feldspar and boric acid 11/6 • Heated to 2400 degrees • Commonly used for insulation • Flame-resistant glass mattress covers are produced for hotels, dormitories and hospitals • Found in ironing board covers and space suits • Owens corning is currently researching glass yarns for apparel Microfibers 11/7 • Superfine manufactured/synthetic fibers • Fibers are 4X finer than a spider’s web • Fibers are finer than Silk • Developed in Japan –first marketed to U S in the 1970’s • More expensive than regular size fibers of the same type • Dupont was the first American microfiber producer in 1990 – it introduced Micromattique RR Microfibers 11/8 • Fabric is extra smooth, soft, and silky • Filaments are packed so close together that they form an effective wind barrier which also prevents loss of body heat • Fabrics can breathe well • Chemical treatments and coatings are not needed to provide water resistance • Popular for raincoats and jackets –lighter and more comfortable than other fabrics • Yarns are made from nylon, polyester, acrylic and rayon Aramid 11/9 • Dupont chemist, Stephanie Kwolek developed a Nylon variant with exceptional heat and flame resistance • Introduced in 1963 under trade name NOMEX Nylon • Another variant was introduced in 1974 as Kevlar-trade name (term used to identify a company’s product) • Exceptional strength and fire resistance • 5X stronger than steel • Used primarily in reinforcements of radial tires Kevlar 11/12 Kevlar 29 • Found in protective apparel, cables, and cordage and as replacement for asbestos in brake linings and gaskets • Body armor under vests are relatively lightweight and bullet-and-knife resistant Kevlar 49 • Highest tenacity (strength of a fiber at which it breaks • Plastic-reinforcement fiber for boat hulls, aircraft, and aerospace uses Nomex -trade name for Aramid 11/13 • Used where resistance to heat and combustion with low smoke generation are required • Firefighter’s apparel • Race car drivers’ suits • Flame-retardant furnishings for aircraft Functional Finish 11/14 • Textile finish applied to fabric to enhance performance for a specific consumer need • Like make-up, functional finishes are made to enhance • Ex. Scotch-Guardstain repellant Logo Mechanical Finishes-Aesthetic 11/15 • Additive finish• Change the appearance and/or hand of fabrics • Applied design • Can be grouped by the change produced in the fabric: luster, drape, texture and hand. finishing chemical is added to the fabric to produce texture (body, stiffness, softness • Subtractive finishsomething is removed from the fabric during finishing- MECHANICAL FINISHES 11/16 Glazing Moire • Produces fabrics that have a highly glazed or polished surface • Fabric is saturated with starch (temporary) or resin (permanent), slightly dried, and fed into the machine in which a rapidly moving, heated roller polishes the surface • Chintz • Fashion side has a watered or clouded surface appearancesometimes called a “wood grain” pattern • Often applied to ribbed fabrics such as taffeta • Uses a roller with a moire pattern etched into its surface Tie Dying 11/26 • Parts of the fabric are tightly wound with yarns (rubber bands) or tied into knots in selected areas • Fabric is placed in dyebath, the knotted areas are protected from the dye Mordant 11/27 • Used to set dyes on fibers • A substance used in dyeing that reacts with both the dyestuff and the fiber to form an insoluble compound, thereby fixing the color within and on the fiber • Soda ash changes the pH of the fiberreactive dye and cellulose fiber so that the dye reacts with the fiber, making a permanent connection that holds the dye to the fiber. Textile Printing and Design 11/28 • Colored patterns may be applied to fabric by a variety of hand or machine processes • Printing is a cheaper way of creating designs on fabric than weaving or knitting with different colored yarns. Digital Printing 11/29 • One of the exciting developments in the textile industry which started in late 1980’s • Ink jet based method of printing colorants onto fabric • Direct to garment- used for t-shirts, dresses, and promotional wear advertisement • Visual Communication: corporate branding is printed onto polyester media. Flags, banners, signs, retail graphics. Yarns into Textile Fabrics 11/30 • Can be accomplished by an individual with a pair of knitting needles, a crochet hook, or a hand loom • Use of powerful machines that combine yarns by weaving, knitting, or stitch bonding FABRIC 11/30 • A flat 2-dimential flexible material made from fibers, yarns or other components. • Result of the weaving, knitting, twisting, felting, or lacing of fibers and yarns • Even when the same weave or knit construction is used, the end product will be distinctive if the fiber or yarn type is varied