Textile Science
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Fiber:
The basic beginning structure of a textile.
A fiber is an individual, fine, hair-like structure.
Fibers are usually twisted together to make
yarns, which are then woven to create a textile.
Fiber is classified into two categories
Natural or Synthetic
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Natural Fiber
Natural fibers come from
plants or animals.
•Plant fibers can come from
stems, leaves, or even seeds of
plants.
•Animal fiber is produced from
the fur of animals.
•And even though silk comes
from the cocoon of a silk
worm it is still consdiered an
animal fiber
In this class we will focus on four
natural fibers.
Cotton, Wool, Linen, and Silk
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Cotton
Advantages
•Low cost
•Cool (Absorbs moisture)
•Machine Washable
•Soft
Characteristics
•Made from the cotton plant.
•Least expensive of all natural
fibers.
•Absorbs moisture.
(hydrophilic)
•One of the most popular
natural fibers because of its
comfort level
•Accepts dyes easily
Disadvantages
•Shrinkage
•Little resiliency (ability of
fabric to spring back into
shape
Lots of lint because of short
fibers
When creating clothing cotton is often mixed with
another fiber to create a blend, why would this be?
Proper Care
•Press with Moisture
•Wash on cooler
temperatures to prevent
shrinking
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Cotton Fabrics
•Canvas
•Corduroy
•Denim (Jeans)
•Flannel
•Knits
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Proper Care
•Care varies from washable to dry
clean only
• See the care label for specific
care techniques
Advantages
•Keeps warm because of crimp and
slow absorbing water vapor
•Very high crimp
•Durable
•Repels outside moisture
Keeps shape well
Characteristics
•Comes from animals (sheep, rabbits,
goats)
•Natural fire-retardant characteristics.
•Absorbs moisture (Hydrophilic).
•It is often used for coats, outer clothing,
quality suits, etc.
•Temperature Regulation
Wool
Disadvantages
•Loses strength when wet
•Wash with care
•Expensive (Generally because of a
•limited quantity)
•Shrinks and mats
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.
Linen/Flax
Proper Care
• Varies from washable to dry
cleanable only, dependent upon
the quality
• See the care label.
• Press at highest temperatures.
•Hydrophilic
Advantages
•Strong
Looks Expensive
Characteristics
• Made from the flax plant.
• Similar Characteristics of cotton Stronger
than cotton.
• Dyes easily.
• Intricate weaving process
• It is commonly used for spring/summer
wear and fine suits
Disadvantages
•Wrinkles very easily
•Expensive
Sheer
How can we tell that
linen is a natural fiber?
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Characteristics
• Fiber is made by a silk worm
• Luxury fabric.
•Very hydrophobic
Silk
Proper Care
• Varies from washable to dry cleanable only,
dependent upon the quality.
• See the care label.
• Do not iron using moisture—water spots will not
go away.
Advantages
•Natural luster!
•Thinnest of all natural
fibers
•Dyes well
•Excellent Drape
Disadvantages
•Degrades over time.
•Extreme care in cleaning
Sensitive to sunlight = fiber damage &
Yellowing
Based on what we know
about silk, what will it do
when put next to a
flame?
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How is
Silk made?
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A few questions about
natural fibers!
1. What are two advantages of natural fibers?
They are breathable, they feel good on your skin, they tend
to be of a higher quality, and better for the environment in
production than synthetic fibers.
2. What are the benefits of using blended fibers in fabrics?
It helps provide beneficial qualities where natural fibers may lack them. For
example when we mix cotton with polyester (cotton/poly blend) the garment will
be much less likely to stretch and will have a higher resiliency. Blended fibers are
also a cheaper option because synthetic fibers easier to produce. You will see
mostly blends in clothing at department stores.
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The Burn Test
Tests such as a burn test help to
identify different types of fiber.
When burning fabric you can
tell the difference between
cellulose based, protein based,
and synthetic based groups by
looking at the ash, residue,
smoke color, and odor that the
fiber produced when lit.
Cellulose fibers (Natural Plant based fibers)
Cotton
Linen
*produces fine gray ash, burns only, wispy smoke*
Protein fibers (Natural animal based fibers)
Wool
Silk
*produces very strong odor, ashes in beads that can be
crushed to form a black powder*
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Synthetic Fibers
Synthetic fibers are manufactured through the use of
chemicals. They are Man Made Fibers.
Synthetic fibers are made from
chemical solutions that are forced
through tiny holes, similar to water
passing through a shower head.
The device that allows this process
to happen and allows the chemicals
to become a filament strand is
called a spinerette.
In this class we will learn about 6 of these synthetic
fibers
Nylon
Acetate
Rayon
Acrylic
Polyester
Spandex
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Nylon
Characteristics
•Strongest synthetic fiber
•Very light weight
•Tears easily
•The first chemically man-made fiber, invented
to be used in parachutes during the war.
•After the war it created a nylon craze
Proper Care
Advantages
•When pressing, use very low temperature to
prevent melting
•Need to be kept clean for best performance
•Can be machine washed in warm water
•Tends to attract static, in order to prevent this
add a fabric softener sheet during the drying
cycle
•Excellent strength
•Lightweight
•Excellent abrasion resistance
•Washable
Disadvantages
•Doesn’t absorb moisture (hydro phobic)
•Melts instead of burning
•Static and pilling problems
Poor resistance to prolonged and continuous
sunlight
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How nylon fiber is made:
Nylon is made when molten nylon is forced through very small holes in a device
called a spinneret. The streams of nylon harden once they come in contact with air.
They are then wound onto bobbins, and sewn to create fabric.
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Acrylic
How acrylic fiber is made:
Acrylic fabric is made of manmade acrylic fibers. Acrylic fibers
are made of synthetic polymers
which essentially are a soft fibrous
plastic. Acrylic fiber was invented
in the 1940’s and is mainly
manufactured in Asia. Acrylic
fabric can be made by wet or dry
spinning methods.
Disadvantages
•Usually dry cleaned
•Never use a hot iron
•Fair strength,
Characteristics
•weak when wet
Created to be similar to wool
•hydrophobic
•Less expensive
Advantages •static and pilling problems
•Washable
•Light weight, but warm
•Washable
Proper Care
•Soft
•Never Iron acrylic fabric
•Machine washable
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Acetate
Advantages
•Looks like silk
•Drapes well
•Inexpensive
•No pilling, little static
•Rarely wrinkles
Disadvantages
•Poor strength
•May fade
•May wrinkle
•Poor abrasion resistance
•Laundering (weak when wet)
Characteristics
•Man made silk alternative
•Soft
Great drape
•Resistant to shrinking
•As a chemical, acetate is found in nail polish and
nail polish remover.
•From cellulose of deconstructing wood or cotton
•Found in formal wear and clothing lining
Proper Care
•Usually dry clean only
•Never treat with acetone
How acetate fiber is made:
Acetate is made from filaments of wood shavings that are extruded as liquid and set
to form a fiber. The fibers are woven together to create a fabric that is similar to silk
in texture and appearance. Since acetate is derived for wood, which is a natural
occurring substance it is the most ecological friendly synthetic fabric.
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Characteristics



How rayon fiber is made:
Rayon is the oldest manufactured fiber. It is
Polyester alternative, and has similar qualities produced when the compound cellulose is
converted to a soluble compound. The liquid of
Made from wood pulp
this compound is passed through a spinneret to
form fiber filaments, Which are then spun into fabric
Many different types
by a wet or
Proper Care
•
Some fabrics are machine washable but
most are cry clean only
Advantages
•
•
Inexpensive
Absorbs moisture
Disadvantages

Weak when wet

Should be dry cleaned

Not very strong
Rayon
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Spandex
Characteristics

Can stretch at least 100%, but can
snap back into shape.

Often blended with rayon, wool or silk

Commonly used in active wear

Provides elasticity to clothing
Proper Care
•
When cleaning avoid
chlorine, drying, or a hot
iron.
Advantages
•
Excellent stretch
•
Great recovery
•
Washable
How spandex fiber is made:
Spandex is made of numerous
polymer strands. During
production the polymers are
stretched to their fullest capacity.
After the force is removed the
fibers return to its relaxed state.
By using the elastic properties of
the spandex fibers we can create
fabrics that can have stretching
capabilities.
Disadvantages

Not as strong when combined with
other fibers

Have to avoid high heat

Have to avoid chlorine bleach
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Polyester
Characteristics




Most used synthetic fiber in the US
Polymer created from coal, water, and
petroleum
Fine to heavy weight
Often mixed with other fibers to
create a blended fabric
Proper Care
•
•
Disadvantages
Advantages
Holds oily stains
Static and pilling problems
Hydrophobic
•
•
What do you predict will happen
when polyester is ignited? Why?
What would happen if it was mixed
with another fiber?
•
•
•
•
•
•
Washes easily on any temperature
The more often you wash polyester the
more likely piling is to occur
Best “wash and wear” fabric
Very good strength and abrasion
resistance
Will not shrink or stretch
Resists wrinkles
Washable
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• Pick a Partner and Pick any Fiber of your choice
• Pretend your Fiber is a person. Create a Dating
profile for you fiber. Include:
•
•
•
•
Likes(good characteristics about the fiber)
Dislikes (bad characteristics about the fiber)
A drawn picture of what that fiber would look if it were a
person (BE CREATIVE HERE)
What it is in search of (how we would care for that particular
fiber).
• Prepare a poster that would be similar to what a
dating profile page would look like.
• Promote your fabric, make it look good 
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How polyester fiber is made:
Polyester is made from petroleum byproducts creating a polymer. Fibers are
derived chemical reactions involving coal, petroleum, air, and water. When
making polyester fabric the polymers are extruded and heated to create long,
thin fibers. They are stretched when hot until they are five times their original
length making a strong fiber.
What is Pilling? Why does it happen?
Pilling is the formation of group of short or broken fibers on the
surface of a fabric. These broken fibers then tangle together to
form ball called a pill. Pills usually form after the garment has been
worn several times. Pilling occurs more likely on hydrophobic
fibers because they have greater electrical static attraction than
hydrophilic fibers do.
What natural fiber is polyester normally blended
with?
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Burn tests on synthetic
fibers
All synthetic fibers because of there chemical make up will melt
when contacted with heat. Most synthetic fibers, especially
polyester will also create a thick black smoke when ignited. When
the fiber is still hot, you will usually be able to pull long plastic
strands (filaments) out of the fabric.
Which type of fabric would you rather be wearing if caught in
a fire? Natural or synthetic?
What will nylon do will it’s exposed to flame? Let’s make a
prediction.
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The Acetone Test
The acetone test is completed to determine if the fabric is 100%
acetate or if it is a blended fabric with acetate in it. The test in
administered by dropping droplets of acetone onto the fabric or
by placing the fabric in a acetone solution.
What do you predict will happen if we place acetate
fabric in a acetone solution?
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