FASH 15 textiles
bast fibers
bast fibers
bast fibers come from the stem of the plant, near the
outer edge
harvested:
• by hand where labor is cheap
• by pulling up entire plant (10% longer than cut)
• by cutting as close to the ground as possible
after harvesting:
• seeds removed using a rippling machine
• retting decomposes pectin holding fibers together
• woody portion is removed by scutching
• short and irregular fibers removed by hackling
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HCJQCWDIozk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KwfIhPAcrcU&NR=1
flax
one of the oldest documented textile fibers—Egyptian
tombs more than 3000 years old
prestige fiber due to limited production & relatively
high cost—linen
most flax is produced in Western Europe:
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Belgium
France
Italy
Ireland
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United Kingdom
Germany
The Netherlands
Switzerland
flax—structure
individual fiber cells—ultimates—are spindle-shaped
with pointed ends and a central lumen
primary fiber averages 5.0-21.5 inches in length & 1216 micrometers in diameter
can be identified microscopically
by crosswise markings—
nodes or joints
cross-section is many-sided
or polygonal with round
edges
flax—structure
fibers are slightly grayish when dew retted; more
yellow when water retted
stronger than cotton due to highly oriented molecular
structure
similar to cotton in chemical
Composition—71% cellulose
short flax fibers are called tow
long, combed, better-quality fibers are called line
flax—aesthetics
flax has a high natural luster that is softened by its
irregular fiber bundles—luster can be increased by
flattening
stiffer in drape and harsher in hand than cotton—
finishes can produce softer, more drapeable fabrics
flax—durability
strong for a natural fiber—higher breaking tenacity
when wet
• very low elongation
• elasticity is poor
• stiff fiber
repeatedly folding a linen in the same place will cause
fabric to break
nodes contribute to flexibility but are the weakest part
of the fiber
flax—comfort & care
• high moisture regain of 12%—absorbent
• good conductor of heat
better for hot or cool weather?
• resistant to alkalis, organic solvents, & high temps
• can be dry-cleaned, machine-washed & bleached
with chlorine bleach
for upholstery & wall coverings, careful steam
cleaning is recommended to avoid shrinkage
• low resiliency—often require pressing
• more sunlight resistant than cotton
• store dry otherwise will mildew
flax—environmental concerns/sustainability
less of an environmental impact than cotton
requires fewer chemicals & seldom irrigated
pulling plants at harvest contributes to soil erosion
depending upon retting practiced, disposal of
chemicals & contaminated water are of concern—dew
& enzyme retting are more sustainable than water
retting
hand labor needs to be monitored
to avoid exploitation of workers
flax—identification
burns readily in manner similar to cotton
fiber length is easy way to differentiate between
cotton & flax—cotton seldom longer than 2.5 inches;
flax almost always longer than that
soluble in strong acids
http://textilemania.textilefabric.com/u_1/u_1_5.html
flax—uses
used in bed, table, and bath items for residential &
commercial use as well as apparel & technical
products
ideal for wall coverings up to 120 inches wide due to
irregular texture which:
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adds visual interest
hides nail holes
wall damage
muffles noise
used in upholstery & window treatments due to:
• durability
• interesting & soil-hiding textures
• versatility
flax—uses
linen apparel includes items for:
• warm-weather use
• high fashion
• casual
• professional wear
technical products include:
• luggage
• bags
• purses
• sewing thread
ramie
also known as rhea, grasscloth, China grass,
Army/Navy cloth—used for several thousand years in
China
ramie plant is a tall perennial shrub—requires hot,
humid climate—cut, not pulled
fast-growing & can be harvested
as frequently as every 60 days
separated from stalk by
decortication—bark & woody stalk separated from fiber—
became more commercially important once
mechanized
ramie
• relatively inexpensive
• can be cottonized and blends well with other fibers
produced in China, Brazil, the Phillipines, South
Korea, Taiwan, Thailand, & India
must be degummed by boiling in weak alkaline
solution to remove wax & pectin and separate fiber
bundles
ramie—properties
white, long, fine fiber with a silklike luster
similar to flax in absorbency, density & microscopic
appearance
because of high molecular crystallinity and
orientation, ramie is stiff and brittle
like flax, will break if folded repeatedly in same
place—lacks resiliency, low in elasticity & elongation
potential
ramie—properties
one of the strongest natural fibers know—strength
increases when wet
resistant to insects, rotting, mildew & shrinkage
absorbency is good, does not dye as well as cotton—
can be mercerized to enhance dye absorbency
does not retain color well unless it is dry-cleaned
ramie—uses
used in many imported apparel items—sweaters,
shirts, blouses & suits
important in interiors for window
treatments, pillows & table linens
often blended with other natural fibers
used in ropes, twines, nets, banknotes, cigarette
paper, and geotextiles for ground-cover fabrics
(erosion control)
hemp
resembles flax in macroscopic & microscopic
appearance—some varieties very difficult to
distinguish from flax
hemp is coarser & stiffer than flax—processing &
cottonizing minimizes these differences
hemp fibers can be very long—3-15 feet
processed similar to flax with similar environmental
issues—depending on processing, fiber may be
creamy white, brown, gray, almost black, or green
78% cellulose & can be machine washed and dried
hemp
plant produces 3 types of fibers:
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bast fibers from outer region—longest & finest; most often
used in 100% hemp and blend fabrics with linen, cotton or
silk for apparel & interiors
inner two fibers are shorter & most often used in
nonwovens & other technical applications
innermost woody core fibers are used for mulch and pet &
animal bedding
resistant to ultraviolet light, mold & rotting
high strength makes it particularly suitable for twine,
cordage & thread
fell out of popularity in 40s due to drug regulations—
new varieties grown for fiber have less than 1% THC
hemp
used for some apparel & interiors—found in hats,
shirts, shoes, backpacks, t-shirts & jeans
environmentally friendly—
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does not require pesticides; grows so quickly that it
smothers weeds
root systems minimize soil erosion
20-30% of plant is fiber—produces 250% more than
cotton; 600% more than flax on same land
being grown on land to extract pollutants—zinc, mercury
most imported from China & Philippines; also grown
in Italy, France, Chile, Russia, Poland, India &
Canada
jute
61% cellulose—one of cheapest & weakest natural
fibers—primary fibers in bundle are short & brittle
grown throughout Asia, chiefly India & Bangladesh
creamy white to brown in color—white, soft, lustrous &
pliable when first removed from stalk; quickly turns brown,
weak & brittle
used to produce sugar & coffee bagging, carpet
backing, rope, cordage, & twine—facing strong
competition from olefin
deteriorates quickly when exposed to water; low
sunlight resistance; poor colorfastness
kenaf
soft bast fiber from kenaf plant
fiber is long, light yellow to gray
and harder & more lustrous than jute
like jute, used for twine, cordage & other technical
purposes
produced in Central Asia, India,
Africa, & some Central American
countries
being investigated by researchers
as paper fiber source & in blends
with cotton
hibiscus
from same general botanical family as cotton—grows
as a tall shrub in tropical & subtropical regions
commercially grown & used for clarifying sugar cane
juice—waste material studied for fiber potential
retting is required to extract fiber from plant stem
can be bleached; has good fastness when dyed with
direct dyes
stronger than jute—has potential for use in bags, rugs
& some apparel items when used in blends
nettle
two types—Himalayan giant nettle plant or stinging
nettle
hollow fiber look and feels similar to raw flax—has
good insulating characteristics
perennial that grows without use of fertilizers or
pesticides—studied as potentially sustainable fiber
used for technical products like bags & ropes as well
as apparel & interior textiles
48% cellulose—similar in shape to ramie but stronger;
coarser than jute
bamboo
two types—one removed from above-ground stems;
other regenerated from bamboo pulp (ch. 7)
naturally resistant to microbes; absorbent; coarse
hand
not usually found in apparel or interiors
type of grass—grows quickly without use of chemicals
most harvested regularly from managed farms—does
not threaten wild bamboo forests or natural habitats
leaf fibers
obtained from leaf of a plant—fiber is split or pulled
from leaf during processing
most are long and stiff and have limited dye affinity
pina
from leaves of pineapple plant—fiber is soft, lustrous
& white or ivory
highly susceptible to acids & enzymes—hand
washing is recommended
fiber produces lightweight, sheer, stiff fabrics—often
embroidered
used for formal & wedding wear in Philippines, also to
make mats, bags, table linens & other apparel
current research aimed at making a pina fiber that
blends well and is commercially competitive
abaca
comes from member of banana tree family
fibers are coarse, very long—up to 15 feet, strong,
durable & flexible
off-white to brown in color
used for ropes, cordage, floor mats, table linens,
some wicker furniture and apparel
produced in Central
America and the
Philippines
sisal & henequen
closely related plants grown in Africa, Central
America, and the West Indies
fibers are smooth, straight and yellow
used for better grades of rope, twine and brush
bristles—degraded by salt water
Sisal is used for upholstery, wall coverings, carpet &
custom rugs—provides interesting textures for many
interior styles
used in blends with wool & acrylic for a softer hand
dry extraction cleaning is recommended—tends to
shed & fade; absorbs waterborne stains
other cellulosic materials
used in accent rugs due to resistance to heat & soil:
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rush—stems of marsh plant
sea grass—from China & Vietnam
maize—cornhusks
rush & palm fiber seat are used on chairs
wooden slats & grasses used in window coverings
grasses are used in wallcoverings
wicker furniture is made from tightly twisted paper
yarns, rattan, sea grass, abaca, and raffia
bacteria cellulose is used in medicine as a covering
for sever burns & other skin injuries