PATTERN
DEVELOPMENT
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Apparel Design Technical Pack (Tech Pack)
Block Pattern
CAD-Computer Aided Design
Costing
Design Details
Design Samples
Drafting a Pattern
Flat Pattern
Garment Cost Sheet
Grading
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Logistics
Pattern Maker
Pattern Specification Sheet
Production Samples
Prototype
Retail
Reverse Engineered Pattern
Sloper Pattern
Sourcing
Tariffs
Wholesale
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Create a pattern for a garment or an apparel
product.
Consider the design details.
Select the materials (fabrication and trims)
Construct the sample (prototype)
Fit, revise and finalize the sample
Create an apparel technical design pack
Prepare pattern for mass production
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Designers begin by creating a2D or 3D
pattern, utilizing one or more of the pattern
making methods:
Flat
Drafting
Reversed Engineered
Draping
Computer Generated
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Flat Pattern- A pattern is
created by using an existing
foundation pattern known as a
sloper or a block.
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Sloper (Home Sewing Industry
term) or Block (Apparel
Manufacturing Industry term) custom fitted basic pattern
based on individual or
companies standard size
measurements from which other
patterns can be made.
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Drafting a Pattern- Patterns are created by
using measurements of an existing garment,
an individual, or body form. Pattern is then
drawn on paper utilizing the body
measurements.
Drafting a Pattern: You Tube Video
Reverse Engineering a Pattern- Patterns
are created by deconstructing an existing
garment. It is taken apart, analyzed, and new
pattern pieces are created.
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Draping- A garment is
created by molding, cutting,
and pinning fabric on an
individual or a dress form. It is
the oldest method of pattern
making.
Computer Generated
Patterns- Computer-aided
design (CAD) software is used
to produce patterns for
textiles, apparel and other
products.
Image Source:
www.lucianagrimaldi.com
Dress Styles:
 Collar Styles: Shirt, Button
Sheath, Shift, A-line, Tent,
Down, Sailor, Convertible,
Empire, or Lower waistline
Peter Pan, Chelsea, Bertha,
 Other Dress Styles: Princess,
Mandarin, Band, Crewneck,
Blouson, Shirtwaist, Coatdress,
Turtleneck, Shawl, Bow Tie,
Asymmetrical, Jumper or
Stock , Jabot
Sundress
 Sleeve Types: Set-in, Kimono,
 Neckline Styles: Decollete̒,
Raglan
Jewel, Boat, Scoop, Horseshoe,  Set-In Sleeves Types: Bishop,
Cowl, Raised, Square, V, Off
Pleasant, Bell, Lantern, Cape,
the Shoulder, Sweetheart, and
Shirt, Puff, Melon, Cowl, Petal,,
Keyhole.
Roll-up, Leg-o-Mutton,
 Shirt Styles: Dress, Sport,
Shirred, Juliette, and TwoPolo, Western, T-shirt, Tank,
Piece Tailored
Fitted, Hawaiian, Tunic,
Tuxedo, Camisole, and Henley
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Kimono Sleeve Types:
Shorts, and Short Shorts,
With Gusset, Dolman,
 Other Pant Styles Include:
Batwing
Gauchos, knickers, and
 Raglan Sleeve Types:
Culottes
Raglan to center front,
 Jacket Styles: Trench,
Raglan-Princess, and
Blazer, Fitted, Tuxedo,
Saddle Sleeve Design
Cardigan, Parka, Poncho,
 Skirt Styles: Straight, ACape, Safari, Pea,
line, Flared, Circular, Full,
Windbreaker, Norfolk,
Pleated, Gathered, Dirndl,
Chanel, Bolero, and Box
Gored, Umbrella, and Wrap
 Pant Styles: Tapered,
 Pockets- Patch, Inseam,
Straight, Flared, Jean,
Welt, Flap
Palazzo, Harem, Bermuda
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Once a design is created and the pattern is
engineered, the materials (fabrication and
trims) are sourced. (Consider wholesale vs.
retail when sourcing materials.) Other
variables may include: labor, logistics, tariffs,
shipping costs etc.
Preliminary costing is completed to insure
profitability.
Costing Considerations- fabrics, trims, design
details, and labor costs.
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Sample garments (prototypes) are created by
sample makers.
Sample makers must be skilled in a variety of
sewing construction techniques.
They work closely to insure fit and design
integrity.
Fashion fabric is used to create a sample
garment.
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Use a mannequin or a live model to check the
fit and styling of the sample garment.
Revise garment fit until it is correct.
Photo Source: gardnerstreetvintage.tumblr.com
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The Apparel Design Technical (Tech) Packs are
created after the sample garment has been
finalized.
Create Your Own Tech Pack-You Tube Video
The tech packs are specific information about
the design and should include the following:
1. Detailed flat sketch with front and back views.
Should include topstitching, pocket and button
placement, placement of contrast fabrications,
hem and band widths, label placement etc.
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2. Directions for any special fabric direction or
matching. For example borders, napped fabric
etc.
3. Any special seam allowances, decorative or
standard topstitching, stitch length, thread type
and color.
4. Include samples of fabrics and trims. Clearly
indicate what is Self, Contrast, Trim, and Lining
fabrics.
5. Measurement details.
6. Care Instructions for labeling
7. Color details and season information
SeasonStyle #Body Measurements
Hardware and
Trim
Fabrication and
Color
Swatch of Fabrics
DateDesignerTechnical Sketchinclude design and
construction details
Care Label Information
Comments
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Once a sample pattern has been approved for
size, costing, availability of materials, and
potential profit; it is used for production
samples and samples for sales promotion.
The approved pattern is graded into smaller
and larger sizes usually by computer but can
be done by hand.
Final fabric selections and trims are ordered
by suppliers.