Carpentersville Fire Department
Firefighter Level III
Fire Hose and Appliances
Objectives
• 3-6.1. Identify the adapters and appliances to
be used in three specific fire ground
situations
(4-12.2)
• 3-6.2. Demonstrate the annual service test
for fire hose (4-12.4)
• 3-6.3. Demonstrate the proper procedure for
cleaning and maintaining fire hose (4-12.3)
• 3-6.4. Demonstrate the proper procedure for
cleaning and maintaining couplings
Objectives
• 3-6.5. Demonstrate the proper procedure for
cleaning and maintaining nozzles (4-12.3)
• 3-6.6. Demonstrate the proper procedure for
inspecting couplings for damage (4-12.3)
*( )
indicates reference to NFPA 1001-1992
References:
• Essentials of Fire Fighting, 3rd Edition
• Chapter 11
• Chapter 10
Objective
3-6.1.
Identify the adapters and the
appliances to be used in three
specific fire ground situations
(4-12.2)
Valve Devices
• Wye Appliance- divides one hose line into two
or more lines. Wye appliances are gated and
may be controlled at the gate.
• Siamese Appliance- takes two or more hose
lines and makes one hoseline or device. May or
may not have a clapper. Usually used to
overcome problems encountered due to
friction loss in hose lays which need to carry a
large flow or cover a long distance. Also used
to supply ladder pipes that do not have
permanent waterway.
Valve Devices
• Water Thief- it’s a variation of a wye. Most
commonly consists of an INLET and two 1
1/2 DISCHARGE outlets. Its intended use is
on a 2 1/2 near the nozzle, so that a 2 1/2
and two 1 1/2 may used in the same layout.
Large Diameter Hose
Appliances
• Hydrant Valves- used when a forward lay is
made from the water supply to the fire scene.
Allows for the flow of the water pressure to be
boosted, additional lines laid, and other
arriving pumpers to connect for operations. All
this is done without interrupting the initial
water flow.
Adapters & Appliances
• Valves
– Gate- used to control the flow from a hydrant. Has
a baffle that is moved by a handle and screw.
– Butterfly- used on large pump intakes. Uses a flat
baffle operated by a quarter-turn handle. The baffle
is in the center when the valve is open.
– Clapper- Used in a Siamese and sprinkler
connection to allow only hose to be connected if
need be. The clapper is a flat disk that is hinged on
one side and swings in door-like manner.
Adapters & Appliances
• Valves
– Ball- open when handle is in line with hose and
closed when when at a right angle. Mainly used
on fire pump piping systems.
Fittings
•
•
•
•
•
•
Double Males
Double Females
Reducers
Elbow Fittings
Coupling/Hose Caps- for male couplings
Plug- for female couplings
OBJECTIVE
3-6.2.
Demonstrate the annual service
test for fire hose.
(4-12.2)
Service Testing Fire Hose
• Required annually
• Two types of testing
– Acceptance test- done before hose is shipped to a
buyer and it is a lot more rigorous and at
extremely high pressures.
– Service test- is done to determine that the hose is
still able to perform
• NFPA 1962
• Testing to be done annually and after any
repairs or damages are noted.
Service Testing Fire Hose
• Before testing examine hose jacket for any
defects, coupling damage, worn or defective
gaskets. Obviously if any of the such is noted,
it should be repaired prior to testing and if
cannot be corrected, it is to be taken OUT OF
SERVICE.
Service Testing Fire Hose
• Test Site
– large enough to lay hoses with out bends or kinks
– isolated from traffic and public interference
– well lighted if done at night
– smooth and free from dirt, glass, oil, and any other
damaging debris
– a slight grade is beneficial to aid in draining hose
– a water source sufficient enough to fill hoses
Service Testing Fire Hose
• Equipment needed
– hose testing machine, fire pumper, portable pump
– hose gate valves
– means of recording hose numbers and test results
– tags or other means to identify sections that fail
– means of marking each length with the year of test
and to mark the couplings to see if pulling has
occurred
Service Testing Fire Hose
• Safety at Testing Site
– exercise care as you will be working with hose that
is under pressure and has a potential to EXPLODE
– use helmet and gloves and eye protection, if using
a fire pumper use hearing protection
– if possible DO NOT connect hoses to a pump panel
where personnel will be operating
– open and close ALL valves SLOWLY
– DO NOT exceed hose lays of 300 feet
– keep testing areas free of water, this aids in
detecting leaks from couplings
Service Testing Fire Hose
– lay large diameter hose flat on ground before
charging
– follow NFPA guidelines
– hose made prior to 1978 service test to 250 psi
– hose made after 1978 follow manufactures
recommendations or 400 psi
– double (inner/outer) rubber jacket hose 300 psi
– let only those QUALIFIED operate testing machines
if you DO NOT KNOW, DO NOT TOUCH!
Service Testing Fire Hose
• Service Test Procedure
• Step 1
– lay hose out in a number of sections not to exceed
300 feet
– check gaskets and then tighten sections together
with spanner wrenches
Service Testing Fire Hose
• Step 2
– connect an open test valve to each discharge valve
using spanners. A test valve gate is a specially
designed valve to be used when hose testing. It
has a 1/4 inch (6mm) hole in the gate that lets the
hose get pressurized but will not allow water to
surge through the hose if it fails. Even when using
a hose test valve gate NEVER stand or walk near
hose that is pressurized!
Service Testing Fire Hose
• Step 3
– connect test length to each test valve and tighten
with spanner
• Step 4
– tie a rope or rope hose tool or hose strap to each
test length of hose 10 to 15 inches from the test
valve connections. Secure the other end to the
discharge pipe or other anchor.
Service Testing Fire Hose
• Step 5
– attach a shutoff nozzle(or any other device that will
permit air and water to drain from hose) to the
open end of each test length
• Step 6
– fill each hoseline with water with a pump pressure
of 50 psi (350kPa) or to hydrant pressure.
– open nozzles as hoses are filling, hold them above
the pump level to discharge all the air from the
hoselines. Discharge the water away from the test
site.
Service Testing Fire Hose
• Step 7
– close all nozzles after air is purged
– mark each length of hose on jacket at couplings
– make sure there are no kinks or twist and no
couplings are leaking
– if leak is after coupling take hose out of service
until repaired
– if leak is from coupling and cannot be stopped,
depressurize hose and replace gasket, and then
retest length of hose
Service Testing Fire Hose
• Step 8
– close each hose gate valve
• Step 9
– increase the pump pressure to the required test
pressure per NFPA 1962
– monitor connections for leakage as pressure
increases
• Step 10
– maintain test pressure for five minutes and check
for leaking
Service Testing Fire Hose
• Step 11
– slowly reduce pump pressure
• Step 12
– slowly open each nozzle and bleed off pressure of
each hose length
– break all connections and bleed water off away
from test site
• Step 13
– check the marks on the hose jacket at the
couplings, if it moved take hose o.o.s. and tag it
Service Testing Fire Hose
• Step 14
– record the test results for each section of hose
OBJECTIVE 3-6.3.
Demonstrate the procedure for
cleaning and maintaining fire
service hose(4-12.3)
Care & Maintenance of
Fire Hose
• Types of damage
– mechanical
– chemical
– thermal
– heat & cold
– mildew & mold
• Washing
• Drying
• Maintaining
Mechanical Damage
• Occurs when an object comes in contact with
hose, somewhere along its length and cuts,
abrades, tears, or stresses the inner or outer
jackets
• Hose is damaged when it is pulled over sharp
edges
– can be prevented by using a hose roller or some
other type of padding
– may not be practical during initial stages of fire, but
should be done during training and overhaul ops.
Mechanical Damage
• Hose may be damaged when it is advanced
through openings with broken glass
– windows that have been removed for any number
of reasons
– make sure all the glass is cleaned from the sash to
prevent glass from cutting the hose jacket
Mechanical Damage
• Damage occurs also when hose is dragged
through debris, it usually contains
– glass
– nails
– metal
• This causes damage to the jacket
Mechanical Damage
• Tools or equipment stored on top of the hose in
the hose bed may damage hose
– store all tools and equipment in places other than
the hose bed, even if it is temporary
– Tools do little damage if stored on top of the hose,
the damage occurs when the hose pulled with the
tools on top
Mechanical Damage
• Abrasions can occur when the hose is
advanced over rough surfaces
– this actually occurs more often during nonemergency events and training rather than
during actual incidents
– when dragged over asphalt repeatedly the
outer jacket weakens and tears and
eventually fails
Mechanical Damage
• Hose suffers damage when it is dragged behind
a moving apparatus
– occurs when laying a line and it gets hung up in the
bed
– occurs when you accidentally loose your hose load
onto the roadway because of poor loading
Mechanical Damage
• Damage occurs when hose is run over by
vehicles
– when vehicle runs over a section of hose, it damage
may not be immediately noticeable
– when a vehicle runs over the hose the outer jacket
and the inner jacket may become unbound
– provide traffic control on scenes and lay hoses out
of the way of moving vehicles
– if it is necessary to drive over hose make sure it is a
charged line instead of uncharged
Mechanical Damage
– If large diameter hose is laid and must be driven
over, lay a tarp over it so it does not get caught up
in the dual axles and pass over on an angle
Mechanical Damage
• Chaffing may occur from vibrations from the
pumper
– hose connected to a pumper with excessive
vibration cause chaffing of the hose where it meets
the street
– use a block or chafing block to prevent this
Mechanical Damage
• Reloading dirty hose back into a hose bed may
cause damage
– dirt and grit abrades the jacket, like sandpaper
Mechanical Damage
• Loading hose on its edges
– NFPA and manufactures recommends hose be
loaded flat, especially LDH, because a horseshoe
and accordion load wears out the edges
• Hose damage occurs when hose is left loaded
with sharp edges for a long period of time
– tightly loaded hose that remains for long time can
develop cracks
– NFPA recommends hose be pulled and reloaded 4
(four) times a year
Mechanical Damage
• Damage may occur if a water hammer occurs
– a sudden increase in water pressure, or water
hammer, caused by “slamming shut” a nozzle bale
– may cause hose and couplings, that are weak, to
burst
– use pressure governors and in-line pressure reliefs
valves
Mechanical Damage
• Damage occurs if hose is left hanging in a
tower for extended periods of time
– inner lining of hose can be damaged where hose
rests over the peg
– if hose is to be left in the hose tower for an
extended period of time rotate the hoses position
on the peg
Heat & Cold Damage
HEAT DAMAGE
• Heat damage occurs when the hose comes in
contact with hot debris from a fire
• Causes charring, melting, and weakening of the
jackets fibers
• Will also cause jacket to dry out causing
cracking
• Similar damage occurs when you leave the
hose near an apparatus’s exhaust pipe
Heat & Cold Damage
• Obviously route hose away from the exhaust
pipe to prevent this damage
• Heat damage also occurs when you leave hose
in an ambient air temperature, like a hose dryer
or in direct sunlight for extended period of time
Heat & Cold Damage
COLD DAMAGE
• Cold damage occurs when water within the
hose freezes
• Allow water to flow uninterrupted through lines
during cold weather operations by leaving
nozzles slightly open
• Immediately drain and roll hose after use
• Prevent intake hose from freezing by
recirculating water and by dumping excess onto
ground away from hoses, try for gutters
Heat & Cold Damage
• Prevent couplings for leaking by tightening all
connections
• Prevent couplings and discharges from freezing
by prelubricating them with anti-freeze
• If hose becomes frozen in ice during
operations, melt it in one on three ways
– melt ice with steam, not fire
– chop lose with axes
– or leave hose until it warms up
Heat & Cold Damage
• Break frozen couplings by pouring warm water
over them, but first wrap them in a towel
• Or place them near rigs exhaust
• Do not thaw with a torch or any other high
heat device as damage can occur to coupling
and/or gasket
• Never load or fold frozen hose
• Before placing frozen hose back into service it
must be service tested
Mold and Mildew Damage
• Hose jackets are woven from organic fibers,
such as, cotton or flax, and are very susceptible
to attack from fungus
• Mildew weakens the hose jacket as fungus
consumes the fibers
• Ideal condition exist within hose storage racks
and hose beds where evaporation may be
inhibited
Heat & Cold Damage
• Prevention
– make sure totally dried before loading or storing
– cover hose beds with water repellant tarps or
covers
– check hose beds and storage areas for a wet musty
odor indicating hidden mildew
– ventilate areas where hose is stored, including
hose beds
• Immediately wash hose, if mildew is located,
with a mild soap solution and dry completely
Chemical Damage
• Many chemicals in liquid and gaseous states
enter woven jackets and destroy the rubber
inside jackets of hose
– gas
– oil
– battery acid
– other petrochemicals
Chemical Damage
• Prevention
– avoid laying hoses in curbs or gutters or where oil,
gasoline, and run off from fire fighting runoff water
could contain harmful chemicals
– scrub hose thoroughly if suspected coming in
contact with acids, scrub with a bicarbonate
solution, the solution bubbling on the jacket will
indicate if the hose jacket did absorb acids
– test and inspect all inactive hose
– test hose if any suspicion of chemical damage
Cleaning Hose
• Scrub hose thoroughly with warm water and
mild soap
• Scrub hose with broom to remove stains
• Rinse
• Remove hose to hose tower or dryer and
thoroughly dry hose
Objective 3-6.4.
Demonstrate the procedure
for cleaning and maintaining
couplings.
(4-12.3)
Cause and Prevention of
Coupling Damage
• Usually caused by personnel neglecting hose
couplings, being run over by vehicles, or by
being dropped
• Dropping
– causes misshapen
– damage
– chipping
– cracking
Cause and Prevention of
Coupling Damage
• Couplings cannot withstand the weight of fire
apparatus and may not be able to tolerate
weight of regular vehicles
• As tires roll over a coupling connection can be
slightly flattened
• Easily detected because the female swivel will
not spin freely anymore and will not take the
male coupling anymore
• If vehicles run over just near the coupling the
hose may be pulled from the coupling
Cause and Prevention of
Coupling Damage
• Obviously lay hose out of the path of vehicles
and apparatus
• If vehicles must pass over hose try and do it
over the middle of the length between the two
couplings
• When dragging hose behind a moving
apparatus male couplings can be damaged by
chipping or become worn down
Cause and Prevention of
Coupling Damage
• Female couplings can become misshapen, if
you must drag hose, try and fold it over the
hose
• Screw threads can be damaged if cross
threaded or if mismatched with the threads of
different coupling
• Use a Higbee indicator to prevent cross
threading
• If couplings become difficult to swivel when
connecting, stop and do not force it or continue
Coupling Repair
• If misshapen, remove it and replace it if
possible
• My be able to restore its original shape
• If threads have been damaged they may be
able to be repaired
• Attempt to repair with a file, thread tap, or die
tool
• Remove burrs and abrasions with a fine three
cornered file
Coupling Repair
• Remove gasket and wash in warm water
• Clean threads to remove tar, dirt, gravel, and
oil
• Inspect gasket and replace if cracked or
creased
Objective 3-6.5.
Demonstrate the procedures
for cleaning and maintaining
nozzles
(4-12.3)
Cleaning and Maintaining
Nozzles
•
•
•
•
•
Check the gasket
Check for external damage
Check for internal damage or debris
Check for ease of operation
Wash with soap and water, using a soft bristle
brush
• If gasket is worn or missing, replace it
• If something is sticking or hard to move, lube it
OBJECTIVE 3-6.6
Demonstrate the procedures for
inspecting couplings for damage
(4-12.3)
Inspecting couplings for
damage
• All parts of a coupling are susceptible to
damage
– threads
– swivels
– gaskets
– lugs
• Obviously couplings are less susceptible to
damage when coupled and taken care of
Inspecting couplings for
damage
•
•
•
•
Avoid dropping and/or dragging
Do not permit vehicles to run over couplings
Examine couplings when washed and dried
Remove the gasket and twist the swivel in
warm, soapy water
• Clean threads to remove tar, dirt, gravel, and oil
• Inspect gasket, and replace if cracked or
creased
Inspecting couplings for
damage
• Replacing and inspecting the gasket
– hold gasket between your middle finger and thumb
wit your index finger resting on the inside rim of
the gasket
– fold the outer rim of gasket upward by pulling with
your index finger, and place the gasket into the
swivel by permitting the large loop of the gasket to
enter into the coupling swivel at the place provided
for the gasket
Inspecting couplings for
damage
– allow the small loop to fall into place by releasing
your grip on the gasket
– if swivel has become stiff or sluggish, place the
swivel in warm, soapy water and work the swivel
forward and backward
• When coupling has been severely bent (into an
egg shape) the usual solution is to replace
coupling
Inspecting couplings for
damage
• There are some cases when it is only slightly
bent or egg shaped, that it can be
straightened, but this should ONLY be done
someone who is trained.
• Obviously the hose length will have to be
tested before it can be placed back in service
• Also inspect threads, if there are any splinters
or burrs, make sure you file them down, this is
done only with a three-cornered file
•This completes the Fire
Hose and Appliances
section of the Firefighter
Level III training program