2015 Cambridge Business & Economics Conference
ISBN : 9780974211428
Investigation of Consumer Motives for Purchase of Cotton (Lawn) Fabric as a Fashion
Statement: Case of Pakistani Female Sentiment
Keywords:
Brand Perception, Consumer Behavior, Cotton (Lawn) Fabric, Female Consumer Sentiment,
Hedonism, Motivation, Rationale, Status
Track: Consumer Behavior in Emerging Markets
Author: Ms. Yasmin Zafar
Assistant Professor
Department of Marketing
Institute of Business Administration, Karachi, Pakistan
E: yzafar@iba.edu.pk
Biography: Ms. Yasmin Zafar is Assistant Professor at Institute of Business Administration,
Karachi. She teaches consumer behavior, brand and services marketing; She has published
teaching cases and been invited to speak at international forums as a corporate professional. She
has developed academic curricula at both graduate and undergraduate business programs. She
has convened a series of International Marketing Conferences in Pakistan. Her current research
interests are in consumer behavior of female, and Gen X, millennials and working women in
Pakistan.
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ABSTRACT
The study of consumer motives for purchase of cotton (lawn) fabric as a fashion statement is of
interest for all Pakistani marketers. Fashion trend cycles in the apparel industry seem to
accelerate despite the mature stage and slow growth seen. The fashion cycle lasts on average six
to twelve weeks and the presence of more and more brands has created a competitive
environment unheard of in the past (Rutter and Edwards, 1999). This major change is because of
the expanded role of female consumers as more and more enter the labor market (Shim and
Kotsiopulos, 1993). This has resulted in higher disposable income for the female consumer;
consequently female sentiment is recognized by apparel marketers as a sought after target market
(Cassill and Drake, 1987).
This investigative study impinges upon the reasons for the high growth and mushrooming of
cotton fabric manufacturers in recent years in Pakistan. It describes female consumer motivation
variables influencing female sentiment like functionality, brand name, self-identity, reference
group, rationale, and hedonism which influences cotton fabric choice and decision making.
While prior research has investigated purchase and behavior motives, very few have done in the
context of female consumers' choice of clothing as a fashion statement. The initial research study
explored the purchase behavior of female consumers of Pakistani cotton (lawn) fabric(Zafar,
2013)1. The results indicated that the key variables included functional and emotional stimuli as
predominant motivators for purchase. There was limited generalizability of the exploratory
findings. This provided a road map for the current study whereby the findings need to be
validated by quantitative analysis. Those uncovered variables have now been operationalized in
1
ZAFAR Y. AND SALMAN F., 2013
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the current study. This paper further investigates these motives with qualitative measures and
analysis.
INTRODUCTION
The study of consumer motives for purchase of cotton (lawn) fabric as a fashion statement is of
interest for all marketers because the fashion trend cycles in the Pakistani apparel industry seem
to accelerate despite the slow growth seen. The average successful clothing trend lasts only six to
twelve weeks and the presence of more and more brands has created a competitive environment
unheard of in the past2. This major change is because of the expanded role of Pakistani female
consumers as more and more enter the working force3. This has resulted in higher disposable
income for the female consumer; consequently female sentiment is recognized by apparel
marketers as a sought after target market4.
While prior research has investigated purchase and behavior motives, very few have done in the
context of female consumers' choice of clothing as a fashion statement. The initial research study
explored the purchase behavior of female consumers of Pakistani cotton (lawn) fabric. The
results indicated that the key variables included functional and emotional stimuli as predominant
motivators for purchase. This provided a road map for the current study whereby the findings
need to be validated by quantitative analysis. There was limited generalizability of the
exploratory findings. Those uncovered variables have now been operationalized in the current
study.
2
RUTTER & EDWARDS, 1999
SCHIFFMAN& KANUK IN SHIM & KOTSIOPULOS, 1993
4
CASSILL & DRAKE, 1987
3
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This paper further investigates consumer with an attempt to understand the consumer sentiment
of Pakistani women who purchase cotton (Lawn) fabric as a fashion statement. This descriptive
study impinges upon the reasons for the mushrooming of cotton fabric manufacturers in recent
years in Pakistan. It includes female consumer motivational variables influencing female
sentiment. These include personality, cultural value and belief systems, brand and selfperceptions and influence of certain key reference groups on decision making,
Findings show that consumer motives for purchase of cotton (lawn) fabric predominantly were
its functional characteristics, namely convenience, ease of use, quality, durability, style, design,
uniqueness, and value for money. The important emotional attributes emerged included selfidentity, self-concept, buying experience rationale and hedonistic buying experience. It was
found that these females purchased the cotton fabric garments which allowed them to achieve
feelings ofuniqueness and belonging, female sentiment and as a fashion statement
LITERATURE REVIEW
Consumer motives for purchase are based on two theoretical frameworks – the optimal
distinctiveness theory and the social impact theory. According to (Brewer, 1991), the optimal
distinctiveness theory, the social identification is the strongest for social groups or categories at
that level of inclusiveness which resolves the conflict between needs for differentiation of the
self and assimilation with others. This influences the purchase behavior of cotton (lawn) fabric as
a fashion statement and influences the consumer purchase patterns of Pakistani females. Such
behavior saysLatane (1981)5, relates to a social impact as and describes it as any of the great
variety of changes in physiological states and subjective feelings, motives and emotions, which
5
LATANÉ, 1981
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occur in an individual are a result of the real, implied, or imagined presence or actions of other
individuals. It was found that there was a high importance of the influence of reference groups
and a sense of belonging in the study participants.
Utilizing Brewer’s theory of optimal distinctiveness (1991, 2003) to examine the trends, it was
found that the respondent females maintained their sentiment through purchase and consumption
of cotton (lawn) fabric because it allowed them to achieve feelings of both uniqueness and
belongingness with social impact on self-identity and self-image.
Qualitative work in marketing purpose also involves discovering differentiated expressions
within particular emotional stimuli that reflect (me) analytical rigor and focused creativity (ii)
people’s actual experiences of brands and (iii) encourage qualitative learning. People do not
necessarily have rational relationships with consumption objects. This was also discovered in the
results of the current study and the findings show a significant correlation between functionality
and buying experience rationale. The reason to believe of the marketing process is almost always
a product of a post-hoc rationalization of an emotional response(Woods, 2004)6; The study
findings show that there is a significant correlation between functionality and buying experience
hedonism and self-indulgence in the study participants.
The demand for status goods is inspired by social rather than by utilitarian product attributes and
raises particular difficulties for consumer researchers. Gutman (1982)Defined a means Bend
chain as one that “seeks to explain how a product or service selection facilitates the achievement
of desired end states. Such a model consists of elements that represent the major consumer
6
WOODS, 2004
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processes that link values to behavior.” In essence, such models focus on three elements; product
attributes, purchase consequences and personal values. Limitations of a means Bend chain
include (me) respondents may be inarticulate and simply unable to answer questions; (ii) they
may be hostile and unwilling to respond. However, another reason is thata conspicuous
consumer can appear to be willing respondent but have the ability to build entirely convincing
yet false ladders to explain their market behavior. There is no reported evidence to show that
ladderingmethodologies are not able to identify such consumer motives and further empirical
work needs to be done in this area (Mason, 1995)7
Kinch19678argues that the subjective experience imparted by the consumption of many products
substantially contributes to the consumer’s structuring of social reality, self-concept, and
behavior. Moreover, the consumer often relies upon the social meanings inherent in products as a
guide to the performance of social roles, especially when role demands are novel. This concept is
seen in the results of the consumer motive behavior of Pakistani females when purchasing cotton
fabric (lawn)In the study findings there is a significant correlation between functionality and
both brand name and self- identity. These constructs are a function of social reality, self-concept
and behavior.
Shrauger and Schoeneman (1979)9 in their paper identify one emerging research stream, termed
the “experiential view”, which emphasizes that many consumption experiences lie beyond the
realm of purchase decisions: “fantasies, feelings, and fun” are also vital consumption phenomena
They say that a significant portion of consumption behavior is actually social behavior-and vice7
MASON, R. 1995.
KINCH1967
9
SHRAUGER AND SCHOENEMAN 1979
8
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versa. They say that overall, symbolic interactionism asserts at least three fundamental
postulates; (I) A consumer’s self-concept is based on perceptions of the responses of others.(ii) A
consumer’s self-concept functions to direct behavior and (iii) A consumer’s perception of the
responses of others to some degree reflect those responses.The constructs of brand name, selfidentity, reference groups and hedonic buying behavior all were reported as significantly
important to the study respondents.
Figure 1 summarizes the divergence between the traditional perspective of products as responses
and the proposition that products can serve as stimuli or causes of behavior as well.The figure
views products as responses rather than causes of behavior. The researcher argues that issues
tend to center more upon the processes that affect the ultimate purchase decision and less upon
the processes by which the consumer actually uses what he or she has bought. A product is
viewed as the material satisfaction of a need (McCarthy 1981). The focus is on the effect of
economic, psychological, and sociological variables on product choice, rather than on the effects
of products on the consumer’s experience.
Purchase of cotton (lawn) fabric, emerged as a function of functionality, brand name, selfidentity, opinion of reference groups, and hedonistic purchases. The product not only served as
stimulus; but also as a response. The product was purchased for functional utility (stimulus) and
to satisfy female sentiment; based on hedonistic emotional motives (response).
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Figure 110Proposed Bi-Directional Relationship between Products and Consumers
Products as Responses
Self-image
Need
Arousal
Need
Satisfaction
Product
Purchase
Impression
Manageme
nt
Products as Stimuli
Product
Symbolism
10
Role
Definition
Selfattribution
Situational
Self-image
Role
Performan
ce
SOLOMON, M. R. 1983
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Emotions are ubiquitous throughout marketing. They influence information processing, mediate
responses to persuasive appeals, measure the effects of marketing stimuli, initiate goal setting,
enact goal-directed behaviors, and serve as ends and measures of consumer welfare. (Bagozzi et
al., 1999)11Pakistani female sentiment is predominantly driven by the need for compliance and
association with the cohort.
Within a cultural studies framework, Denzin (2001)12 discuss consumption as more than
theacquisition, use and divestment of goods and services. They say it represents a site where
power, ideology, gender, and social class circulate and shape one another. The concept of
complexity and ambivalence lies at the heart of consumer attitudes towards luxury. Complexity,
first, as attitude components are numerous and intertwined; ambivalence, second, as attitude
components may be contradictory, not only across consumers, but more interestingly within
consumers. (Dubois et al., 2001)The market for luxury goods has experienced considerable
growth over the last two decades. According to Veblen Effect(Bagwell and Bernheim, 1996)13,
the affluent classes of a given society express their economic superiority over the less well-off by
the purchase, and, above all, the show-off of these goods which serve as status symbols. Microeconomic consumer theory suggests that these consumption patterns can be identified at the
individual consumer level in terms of “conformism” and “snobbism”.
Pakistani society is rather intertwined and dependent on word-of-mouth among close reference
groups, families and friends. Consumers are trapped within a hegemonic marketplace. The
Pakistani female from all socio-economic classes and from all walks of life consumes this
11
BAGOZZI, R. P., GOPINATH, M. & NYER, P. U. 1999.
DENZIN, N. K. 2001
12
13
VEBLEN 1986
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product. The product is ubiquitous and synonymous with female fashion and practice. Brand
names are used as fashion statement to express wealth and status among the cohort. It is
therefore seen that the cotton (lawn) fabric industry has seen a burgeoning growth of
manufacturers and designer brands. From a mere handful in 2005 they have grown to 108 in
2010 and now there are more than 150 brands in the marketplace.
The purchase by females reflects both a conformist and snobbish attitude. Conformist, also
called “bandwagon”, behavior occurs when consumer demand for the product increases just
because other people are also purchasing it. Snobbish behavior is exactly the opposite: An
individual tends to buy less of the product if others are buying the same. These two types of
conspicuous consumer behavior correspond to the desire not to be identified with the poor, and
the desire to be identified with the rich. Such snobbish and conformist consumption motives may
give rise to the so-called “Veblen effect” but shortcomings exist concerning research on luxury
consumption. First, despite the growing body of research on this important sector, a systematic
exploration of the domain of the concept of “luxury,” as seen by the consumers is still lacking.
Kapferer (1998)14Points to a few objective attributes, such as quality and price, as primary
associations with luxury. In the Pakistani market place many manufacturers have developed
unique “snob” value brands which offer only one of a kind design; while there are others who
practice economies of scale to make the product economical and affordable to the masses.
Young shoppers are predisposed to various types of fashion influences (Comunale)15 discusses
that when it comes to branding, one of the most indecisive groups is Generation Y (born between
1985 and 2000). This group realizes that clothes offer personality and confidence; represent
14
KAPFERER 1998
COMMUNALE 2000
15
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social standing, and a method for expressing individuality through styling.Generation Y makes
up 26% of the study respondent population. The current study resulted in a significant correlation
between functionality and buying experience hedonism and self-satisfaction.So in order for
cotton (lawn) fabric brands to attract this segment, the market must focus on branding. Hence
anundeniable imagery of cotton (lawn) fabric fashion brands has led to continuing success and
high appeal to this generation.
A study by District (2010)16attempted to distinguish evaluation outcomes of likely future
satisfaction from feelings or emotions prior to the act of purchase, and assess the impact of prepurchase satisfaction on the purchase behavior of first time buyers. It was hypothesized that; Prepurchase satisfaction and anticipated satisfaction are related but distinct constructs; And prepurchase satisfaction levels were higher for potential first time buyers who buy than those who
do not buy. The results supported both propositions, and suggested that anticipated satisfaction
and pre- purchase satisfaction are distinguishable constructs, and pre- purchase satisfaction is a
predictor of the purchase behavior of first time buyers. Respondents of the study whether first
time or repeat buyers both supported the hypotheses that there is a significant correlation
between functionality and buying experience hedonism
When discussing consumer choice Dhar and Wertenbroch (2000)17said that the process is driven
by both utilitarian and hedonic considerations. Consumers choosing among electronic gadgets,
for example, may care about utilitarian features (e.g., features). Research suggests that these
different considerations map onto independent components of product evaluations and attitudes
and enable people to distinguish between goods according to their relative hedonic or utilitarian
16
17
DISTRICT, 2010
DHAR & WERTENBROCH, 2000
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nature. Hedonic goods could be defined as those whose consumption is primarily characterized
by an effective and sensory experience of aesthetic or sensual pleasure, fantasy, and fun; while
utilitarian goods are ones whose consumption is more cognitively driven, instrumental, and goal
oriented and accomplishes a functional or practical task. The study postulates that there is a
significant correlation between functionality and both buying experience rational and buying
experience hedonism.
RESEARCH METHODOLOGY
To understand the consumer sentiment of Pakistani women who purchase cotton (Lawn) fabric
as a fashion statement; 257 respondents of female consumers aged 21-60 were surveyed in
Karachi, a leading metropolitan seaport in south of Pakistan. Out of a total of 325 surveys
received 68 were incomplete and could not be used. 257 data results were tested statistically
using SPSS for correlation and reliability.
Descriptive statistics, percentage and trend analysis patterns of behavior among the respondents
were measured. Statistical methods of correlation, reliability and factor analysis were used to test
the data. Cronbach’s Alpha, KMO and Bartlett’s test were used to analyze the findings of the
sample. In the construct factor analysis two items were removed from functionality namely (I)
Color, Print, & Design and (ii) Embellishment & style; three (3) items from self –identity namely
(I) conservative (ii) traditional & (iii) follower but all items were retained in brand name;
reference group, buying experience rationale and buying experience hedonism.
Relationship Constructs and Hypotheses
The results were tested for six (6) hypotheses given below:
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1. Functionality:
H0: there is no significant correlation between functionality and brand name
H1: there is a significant correlation between functionality and brand name
2. Brand name18
H0: There is no significant correlation between functionality and brand name
H1: There is a significant correlation between functionality/quality (motivation) and brand
name
3. Self- identity
H0: There is no significant correlation between functionality and self- identity
H1: There is a significant correlation between functionality and self- identity
4. Reference group
H0: There is no significant correlation between functionality and reference group
H1: There is a significant correlation between functionality and reference group
5. Buying experience rationale
H0: There is no significant correlation between functionality and buying experience rationale
H1: There is a significant correlation between functionality and buying experience rationale
6. Buying experience hedonism
H0: There is no significant correlation between functionality and buying experience
hedonism
H1: There is a significant correlation between functionality and buying experience hedonism
18
A separate construct; was made based on the exploratory study result that Brand Name is purchased due to
Functionality
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DISCUSSION19
All tests were significant. The null hypotheses are rejected and all alternative hypotheses are
accepted. There is a significant correlation between functionality and brand name; functionality
and self-identity, functionality and reference group, functionality and buying experience
rationale and functionality and buying experience hedonism. Correlation between purchase
behavior and brand functionality in terms of price, quality, durability, style, design and
embellishments was significant. This indicates that all constructs are indicative of consumer
motives for purchase of cotton (lawn) fabric as a fashion statement and case of Pakistani female
sentiment. The findings show that female sentiment for purchase is highly related and
significantly correlated between functionality and all constructs namely; brand name, selfidentity, reference groups, buying experience rational and buying experience hedonism. Table 1
summarizes Cronbach alpha results of factor analyses and the correlation matrix is given in
Table 2.
The demographic profile of the respondents is detailed in Table 3.The respondents had highest
representation in the single female group (58.82%), 18-25 year old segment (46.46 %) university
student cluster (50.19%) and monthly income PKR 100,000-200,000 (31.25%) categories. Color,
print and design of the branded lawn was very important for 54 percent of the respondents and
across the 18-25 age group, while embellishment and style was very important for 26 percent of
the respondents.
19
See Table 3 for profiles of Respondents
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Table 1: Hypotheses Significance
Summary of Results
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Cronbach Alpha # of Items
1 Functionality
.411
5
2 Brand Name
.822
11
3 Self-Identity
.847
14
4 Reference Group
.894
8
5 Buying Experience Rationale
.876
6
6 Buying Experience Hedonism
.878
8
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Table 2: Correlation Matrix
Functionality
Self- Reference Buying
Buying Brand
Identity Group Experience Experience Name
Rational Hedonistic
Pearson
1
Correlation
Functionality Sig. (2tailed)
N
193
Pearson
.519**
1
Correlation
Self-identity Sig. (2.000
tailed)
N
192
193
Pearson
.461** .687**
1
Correlation
Reference
Sig. (2group
.000
.000
tailed)
N
193
193
194
Pearson
.477** .327**
.370**
Buying
Correlation
experience
Sig. (2.000
.000
.000
Rational
tailed)
N
191
191
192
Pearson
.456** .347**
.393**
Buying
Correlation
Experience Sig. (2.000
.000
.000
hedonistic
tailed)
N
193
193
194
Pearson
1.000** .519**
.461**
Correlation
Brand name Sig. (2.000
.000
.000
tailed)
N
193
192
193
**. Correlation is significant at the 0.01 level (2-tailed).
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1
192
.664**
1
.000
192
194
.477**
.456**
.000
.000
191
193
1
193
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Table 3: Demographic Profile of Respondents
Marital Status
Frequency
Percentage
Single
150
58.82
Married
105
41.18
Total
255
100
Frequency
Percentage
18-25
118
46.46
26-35
67
26.38
36-45
43
16.93
Above 45
26
10.24
Total
254
100
Age Group
Education Level
Frequency
50
Percentage
19.53
Graduate
138
53.91
Post Graduate
Total
68
256
26.56
100
Occupation Category
University Student
Frequency
129
Percentage
50.19
Working Professional
Housewife
Total
70
58
257
27.24
22.57
100
Household Income per
month
Below 100,000 Rupees
Frequency
Percentage
64
26.67
100,001-200,000 Rupees
75
31.25
200,001-300,000 Rupees
44
18.33
Above 300,000 Rupees
57
23.75
Total
240
100
Intermediate
.
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Price of the branded lawn was very important for 28 percent of the respondents and especially
for those having income below PKR 100,000. Value of money was very important for 27.5
percent of the respondents while purchasing branded lawn while quality and durability of the
fabric was very important for 37 percent of the respondents. While 47 percent of the respondents
agreed that the durability of the fabric is important to them. 46 percent of the respondents agreed
that they are variety seekers. The professional female showed higher frequency of purchase with
a greater price-consciousness than the homemaker or even the affluent socially active housewife.
It was found that price level is very important for low income people as compared to people with
high level of income, which holds true according to general theory. Color, print and design of
branded lawn are very important for young people with age group 18-25. Similarly it was found
that color fastness of branded lawn is very important for them. Durability of the fabric of
branded lawn was alsoimportant to buy branded lawn because most of the respondentsconsider
quality of the lawn fabric while choosing branded lawn over unbranded cotton (lawn) fabric.
They are variety seekers and have a high need for uniqueness.The high NFU is relates to selfidentity and self-image. Value for money is more important for educated people who have
graduate and post graduate degrees. The professional female showed higher frequency of
purchase with a greater price-consciousness than the homemaker or the affluent socially active
housewife.
CONCLUSION
It can be concluded that consumer motives for purchase of cotton (lawn) fabric as a fashion
statement reflecting female sentiment include both functional and utilitarian rational buying
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experiences as well as emotional sentiments. The that study participants purchase lawn fabrics
predominantly due to functional characteristics including convenience, ease of use, quality,
durability, style, design, uniqueness, and value for money. The range of emotional attributes
includes motivation variables namely brand name, self-identity, reference groups, hedonistic
buying experience, and rational buying criteria.
RESEARCH LIMITATIONS
This study is based on the type of survey where respondents read and understand the questions
and select a response without researcher interference so it may have validity problem. The
respondents were all from Karachi and may not represent all income segments. Results of this
study might be biased due to self -reporting that usually happens in primary data collected
through surveys.
This study is not representative of whole population. It is biased toward educated people as 54
percent of the respondents are graduates and 27 percent are post graduates. Similarly the sample
respondents of less than PKR 100,000 income are 27 percent which is low corresponding to the
country’s population. Also the respondents are mainly from middle and higher income socioeconomic class.
IMPLICATIONS
There is an escalating market demand of cotton fabric within the burgeoning fashion industry.
Since clothes offer personality, confidence, representation of social standing, as well as a method
for expressing individuality through styling; so the need to focus on branding strategies are
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important. A large group of customers exist in Pakistan belonging to the young generation X and
these insights apply to attract this type of consumer.
The more informed consumer and the greater presence of middle class women in the workforce
have an impact on grooming styles and purchase of textiles and provide growth opportunities for
textile manufacturers, retailers and fashion designers. The growth of brands is making
competition tough. This category has grown in popularity in neighboring countries and also is
being demanded in countries inhabited by Pakistani origin females globally.
Fabric manufacturers can help facilitate feelings of belonging through consuming cotton (lawn)
fabric utilizing innovative communications and marketing strategies to better recognize and
include their clientele. This will influence growth in consumption trends and lead to targeted
insightful marketing strategies in the cotton (lawn) fabric and garment industry of Pakistan. Such
strategies should ultimately result in the strengthening, connect and a loyal bond between the
brand and the consumer.
Further areas of knowledge can include exploratory research to discover and investigate
differences among consumer motivation variables which occur because of variations in
consumer perceptions. Another area could be to explore antecedents of professional female
behavior based on lifestyle and occupational motivators of buying behavior.Also how Pakistanis
perceive personal product consumption and the role as consumer motivation and influencer of
theconsumer decision journey can be studied
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DHAR, R. & WERTENBROCH, K. 2000. Consumer choice between hedonic and utilitarian
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DISTRICT, T. 2010. ASIAN JOURNAL OF MANAGEMENT RESEARCH.
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MASON, R. 1995. Measuring the demand for status goods: an evaluation of means-end chains
and laddering. European Advances in Consumer Research, 2, 78-81.
RUTTER, N. & EDWARDS, O. 1999. Ready to Ware: Skinny models and silky fabrics may
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