Ch. 35 notes
Fiber
Twist several
strands of fiber to
make…
Yarn
Fabric
Twist several
yarns together to
make…
Fiber
• Natural
• Plants (cellulosic)
– Cotton
– Flax
– Ramie
• Manufactured
Continue under Natural Fiber
• Animal (protein)
– Wool (Sheep)
– Silk (Silkworms)
– Specialty Hair
• Camel Family – camel hair
• Rabbit Family – angora
• Goat Family – mohair and cashmere
•Mineral
•Asbestos
Manufactured
• Manmade and machine made
Continue with Manufactured
• Cellulosic (plants) • Noncellulosic
(chemical compounds)
– Rayon
– Nylon
– Acetate
– Polyester
– Triacetate
– Acrylic
Steps before raw materials become
fibers: (still under manufactured)
1. Solid raw materials are changed to a liquid
form (by either melting or dissolving by
chemicals). These raw materials can be wood,
petroleum or other chemical sources.
2. The liquid is forced through a spinneret. The
tiny holes in the spinneret make a thin fiber.
3. The liquid hardens in the form of a filament.,
which is a continuous strand of fiber.
4. The filaments are then twisted together into
yarns and wound onto spools, then made into
cloth.
Filaments
Yarns
Fabric
Fiber Yarn
Fabric
• A strand made by combining staple fibers
or filaments.
• 3 types of yarns
– Spun yarn
• short, staple fibers
• surface is rough because some of the fiber
ends stick out
• All natural fibers, except silk, are made into
this.
• Monofilament yarns
– Made from a single filament
•Multifilament yarns
•Made from a group of filaments
3 categories of yarns
• Single yarns – first twisting step
• Ply yarns – when two or more single yarns
are twisted together
• Cord yarns – when two or more ply yarns
are twisted together
Yarns: Blends and combinations
• Blend – spinning different staple fibers
together to make a single yarn
• Combination – twisting 2 different single
yarns into a ply
• When fibers are blended or combined the
best of each fiber can be enjoyed. (might
not shrink as much, bad characteristics
are lessened)
Fabrics
• Weaving
• Knitting
– Plain Weave
• Uses an over one, under
one pattern
– Twill Weave
• Made when yarns in one
direction float over two or
more yarns in the other
direction
– Satin Weave
• Created by floating a yarn
from one direction over
four or more yarns from the
other direction and then
under one yarn.
– Weft knitting
• Loops are made as yarn is
added in the crosswise direction
(by hand or machine)
• There are 2 kinds:
– Circular (fabric is knitted in the
shape of a tube)
– Flat knitting (stitches can be
added or dropped to change
the fabric width)
– Warp knitting
• Done only by machine
• Loops are made by one or more
sets of warp yarns
• Lighter in weight and less
elastic than weft knits
Other Fabric Constructions
• Felt
–
–
–
–
made from short wool fibers
Not as strong as woven or knitted fabrics
Thick, stiff, warm
Great for household items and crafts
• Nonwoven Fabrics
– Made by bonding or fusing fibers (other than wool)
– Less costly than woven or knitted fabrics
– Often used for disposable items like diapers,
operating gowns, bandages, and cleaning cloths
Finishes
• A treatment that is given to fibers, yarns,
or fabrics that can improve the look, feel,
or performance of a fabric.
Dyeing
• Used to produce color in fabrics
(manufactured or natural)
• Colorfast means the color can withstand
washing, dry cleaning, perspiration,
sunlight, or rubbing
3 types of Dye
• Fiber Dyeing
– Fibers are dyed before they are spun into yarns
• 2 types
– Stock dyeing: natural fibers – the solution is added to the loose fibers
– Solution dyeing: manufactured fibers – the dye is added to the thick
liquid before it is forced through the spinneret
• Yarn Dyeing
– Done by winding yarn onto spools and placing them in a dye
bath (striped and plaid fabrics); cost less than fiber dyeing, but
more than piece dyeing
• Piece Dyeing
–
–
–
–
Most common method
After fabric is made, the color is added
Allows manufacturers to follow color fashion trends
Solid colors mostly, except those that are cross dyed (fabric
made of two or more fibers placed in a dye bath containing two
or more different dyes.
Printing Fabrics
• With dyed fabrics the color is the same on
both sides of the fabric.
• With printing fabrics the color is lighter on
the wrong side of the fabric.
– Direct Roller Printing: The design is etched on
metal rollers that transfer colors and patterns
to form a design directly onto the fabric.
– Rotary Screen Printing: The design is
transferred onto a cylinder-shaped screen (for
each color). Dye is forced through the a
pattern of holes and rolled over the fabric.