School of Hairdressing and Applied Therapies
NVQ Level 2 Beauty Therapy
N2
Provide manicure service
Course Notes
The practices of improving the appearance of the natural nail and cuticle are known
as manicure
Manicure is a popular service in salons as smooth skin, well-shaped and varnished
nails are vital in promoting a well groomed appearance. As a therapist carrying out
treatments in manicure you need to be aware that there is a code of practice that
should be followed when providing this service, which protect the therapist and the
client.
Regular professional attention will help prevent minor damage. This service is
becoming increasingly popular with men who have regular treatments as part of
their professional lives.
At the start of every manicure, time should be allowed for client consultation, it is a
very important part of the service offered to a client. This is to assess whether the
treatment is suitable for the client and if so to prepare a plan of what the treatment
will involve. It should be carried out prior to every treatment regardless if the client
comes to the salon for regular treatment regularly of for a one-off visit. This is
important as a client’s health and circumstances can change between visits to the
salon.
These are the points you should cover during your consultation with the client:
Contraindications
Skin & nail
conditions
Occasion
Nail shape
e.g
wedding
Nail
shape
Products
used
Varnish
used
Consultation
Therapist
Home care
advice
Consultation
Next
appointment
Sales
Contraactions
Benefits for the client:
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Improves the appearance of the nails
Softens the surrounding skin
Enhances overall appearance of the grooming
Immediate and visual effects
Benefits for the therapist:
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Mainstay salon service
Variety of treatments can be performed to enhance basic treatments and
increase salon revenue
Can be used as part of a salon promotion, e.g leg wax and pedicure for the
summer.
If the client requires treatment to improve both the condition and appearance of
nails and the surrounding skin, the initial appearance at the consultation should
identify that regular treatments are necessary for example weekly over a six-week
period, followed by a maintenance treatment every 4-6 weeks.
How you decide on appropriate timing and type of treatment must be mutually
agreed with the client. The same treatment plan will not be suitable for all clients
because of individual needs, gentle questioning will enable you plan the treatment,
needs such as:
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Work commitments
Home life
Leisure activities
Monet available
Time available
Assessing the Client’s Hands and Nails for Manicure
It is important that the hands and nails are clean so that an accurate assessment
can be made of their condition. They can be wiped over with surgical spirit.
Questioning should at all times be appropriate and tactful.
Assessing the client for treatment involves, looking at the hands, touching the skin
and questioning the client. Examine the palms and back of both hands, note the
colour and texture of the skin. Check for rough, dry patches of skin, any cuts or
broken skin or sore areas, were rings worn, are there any signs of infection?
What condition are the cuticles in? This can indicate whether the client cares for
her/his hands and has regular manicure. Look to see if the cuticle is dry, torn,
excessively thick this may require extra work during the manicure.
Study each of the nails for the shape, many different shapes, is the nail plate
smooth, ridged, pitted? A slightly pink colour is an indication of healthy nails and
the strength – nails will vary in thickness, flexibility and strength. Any splits or
flaking should be noted.
Discussion with the client at this stage of the consultation is very important. If there
are any conditions of the hands or nails which are contra-indicated and prevent
treatment continuing this must be handled in a very sensitive manner. Ensure client
advice is given without reference to a specific medical condition and without causing
due alarm and concern. We are not medically trained to diagnose a condition.
Lastly the client needs to be given information on both the cost and estimated time
taken for the manicure treatment to be completed.
Shaping the Nails
At the consultation stage you will need to consider the shape that would most suit
the client, the shape is their choice, however, discuss your recommendations with
them. Nail shapes should usually conform to the shape of the fingers for a more
realistic and natural appearance. The following shapes should be considered:
Square
Round
Oval
Pointed
Squoval
Usually the most suitable for manual worker or clients who do a
lot of work with fingertips e.g. typists, pianists
A good shape for clients who require a short neat style. It
decreases the likelihood of breakage or injury. It is suitable for
clients with large square hands.
Can appear to lengthen the fingers for a more elegant
appearance. It is suitable for small hands.
Liable to breakage due to the exaggeration of the shape. It is
most suitable for special occasions.
Most popular shape used in manicure. The nail is slightly rounded
in at the edges to prevent stress fractures of the nail plate and
then filed straight across the top
Preparing the Work Area and Environment
As a manicurist you may be called upon to treat a client in a range of different
situations. The client may be having other treatments in the beauty salon or in a
hairdressing salon. In these instances it will be necessary to move the client and will
therefore require portable equipment.
Many salons have a designated working area for manicure treatments, wherever you
carry out a treatment you should ensure:
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All materials, equipment and products are within use
Both client and manicurist are seated comfortably
There is good lighting
There is adequate ventilation
Implements are sterilised before hand
Hot/cold water together with liquid soap are available
Plenty clean towels available
Equipment and Materials for Manicure Treatments
To ensure there is no cross-infection or contamination occurs, the manicurist must
make sure everything is clean.
Emery board – this has two sides, a coarse side for reducing length, used in male
manicures and toe nails, and a fine side which is used for shaping and bevelling.
Emery boards are difficult to clean although some manufacturers have developed
special cleansers for this purpose. If you cannot clean the file, it should be disposed
of, or given to the client.
Orange stick – the two ends of the orange stick have a different purpose. The
pointed end is used to apply cuticle or buffing cream. The other side, when tipped
with cotton wool, can be used to clean under the free edge, remove excess enamel
and ease back the cuticle. When tipped with cotton wool disposed of the cotton
after each use. If not tipped, they are only for single use.
Hoof stick – can be plastic or wooden, with a rubber end to ease back the cuticle.
Pointed, and may be tipped with cotton wool to clean under free edge. When using
from nail to nail. On completion of treatment sterilise in a cold sterilising solution.
Cuticle knife – this is used to mould back the cuticle and remove any excess
attached to the nail plate.
Cuticle nippers – used to remove hangnails and dead skin around the cuticle.
Nail brush – to brush the nails and clean them effectively. Wash in hot soapy
water or sterilise in a chemical solution.
Nail scissors – used to cut the nails.
Nail buffer – a pad covered with chamois leather and with a handle. Used in
conjunction with buffing paste. Used in male manicures or when nail varnish is not
going to be applied. To clean, wipe with a suitable cleansing solution.
3-way buffer – this is used to smooth the nail plate and to remove any longitudinal
and horizontal lines. Wipe between uses with a suitable cleansing solution.
Manicure bowl – this contains warm soapy water and sometimes a few drops of oil
or soaking solution. This softens the cuticle ready for pushing back. To clean, wash
in hot soapy water and dry thoroughly.
Towels – use a clean towel for each client. It is useful to protect it with couch roll.
Remember to have a separate towel for your personal use.
Couch roll – this is tissue that can be used to cover trolleys, and for drying hands in
the absence of towels. Dispose of after use.
Tissues/cotton wool – many pieces needed, use a different tissue or piece of
cotton wool for each hand.
Spatulas – break wooden spatulas after use. Wipe plastic of metal spatulas with a
suitable cleansing solution when using between different products. Used to remove
products from pots.
Products for Manicure Treatments
The products below are required to carry out a manicure treatment
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Nail varnish remover
Cuticle cream
Cuticle remover
Massage medium
Talcum powder
Buffing paste
Base and top coat
Nail enamel
For all these products use the cut-out system, or pump action dispensers as these
will prevent contamination of the product between uses. When using pump
dispensers, do not allow the spout to come into contact with the client’s hands.
Name of Product
Nail Enamel Remover
Cuticle Cream
Cuticle Remover
Massage Medium
Buffing Paste
Base Coats, Top Coats
and Nail Varnishes
Description
A solvent used to dissolve nail enamel. It is usually a
mixture of acetone, glycerol and perfume. Acetone can
have a drying effect on nails and surrounding skin.
An emollient (softening, soothing) agent applied to the
cuticle to make it pliable. Creams contain soft white
paraffin, mineral oils and some lanolin. Oils are a mixture
of almond and jojoba and mineral oils.
A liquid or cream designed to dissolve an break down the
cuticle to make removal easier. This contains potassium
hydroxide (which is caustic), water and glycerol. As it is
caustic, cuticle remover should be rinsed off the nails and
skin directly after use. This product can be used as a nail
bleach.
A cream or an oil that provides lubrication for massage
and softens skin. Contains emollient, glycerol, lanolin,
water, emulsifiers, colour, perfume and a mixture of
almond, jojoba and mineral oils.
An abrasive paste used in conjunction with a chamois
buffer to smooth out ridges on the nail plate. The
abrasive elements in the paste may be a mixture of kaolin,
chalk, silica or talc.
These products all have the same basic contents: a film
firming plastic – nitrocellulose, a plastic resin – aryl
sufonamicide, a gloss – formaldehyde, a plasticiser –
castor oil for flexibility and solvents to dissolve other
substances causing the nail enamel to dry – eythyl
acetate. Colour is given by the addition of pigments and a
pearlised effect is made by adding – bismuth oxychloride
for a metallic shine.
Hand and Arm Massage
All massage techniques should be soothing and relaxing as this often can be the
most enjoyable part of the manicure for the client. During the hand arm massage a
combination of massage movements are used.
Effluerage – a gentle stroking movement. Using the palm of the hand and tips of
the fingers. It is used at the beginning and end of the routine in an upward
movement towards the heart.
Petrissage – a kneading movement, which is deeper and more stimulating. It
increases blood and lymphatic flow and aids the removal of loose skin cells.
Frictions – these are small circular movements in which the skin is moved under
the first two fingers or thumb to loosen adhesion in underlying tissues.
Rotations – circular movements applied to the joints to aid mobility.
Moisturises
Skin
Aids Client
Relaxation
Aid Desquamation
(skin shedding)
Benefits of Massage
Aids Removal of
Waste Products
from the Tissues
Improves Poor
Nail Conditions
Stimulates Blood
Supply, Aiding
Cell Renewal
Relaxes Tired
Muscles
Choosing Nail Enamel
The choice of nail enamel colour would usually have been discussed with the client
during the consultation. The client may know what colour they want, however, the
majority of clients will rely on the manicurist’s advice. You need to consider the
following when choosing a nail enamel colour:
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The age and colour of the skin – older hands which are uneven in colour.
Orange, peach or beige tones emphasise the bluish tinges to the skin often
seen in clients with poor circulation.
Bright colours draw attention to the hands and require nails that are of an
even length and shape.
Dark nail enamel will draw attention to the nails and make small nails look
even smaller.
Pearlised enamel shows up any imperfections in the nail plate.
A special occasion may require the manicurist to match the enamel to an
outfit or other make-up colours.
Nail Painting Techniques
When painting nails, it is important to remember the following points:
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Try not to use more than four strokes per nail, as more strokes will make the
paint finish look streaky.
Hold nail enamel in non-working palm of hand and use finger to support nail
being painted.
Always allow coats to dry before reapplying. This prevents smudging and
streaking.
Leave a thin unvarnished line at each side of the nail and base of the nail to
produce a slimming effect.
Avoid flooding the cuticle with nail varnish, as this has a drying effect on the
skin and looks unprofessional.
Tidy up any flaws with a cotton wool bud or tipped orange stick soaked in
varnish remover.
Provide Aftercare Advice
To ensure that your client gains maximum benefit from the treatment, you need to
give advice that is both practical and achievable.
Wherever possible, it is advisable to show the client how to use the products that
would be suitable for them to purchase. Many of the products advised can be sold
at salons.
Contra actions that could occur after nail treatments
To protect the client’s hands and nails from damage, it should be suggested that
suitable gloves or special barrier cream are used when completing tasks involving
any dirty work, or other work involving the use of water or chemicals. Examples of
these types of work include:
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Gardening
Washing
Hairdressing
Car maintenance
The client should also be advised:
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Not to bite nails or surrounding skin and to keep an emery board available to
deal with ragged free edges to the nails, so that the temptation to bite is
removed.
To use a moisturising hand cream or lotion regularly.
To avoid using the nails as tools e.g. undoing screws, removing tight lids from
containers etc.
To stop using a product immediately in the event of contra-actions occurring,
such as a reaction to products in the form of extreme redness, rashes,
irritation or swelling – advise the client to cool the area with cold water and
visit the GP if treatment is required.
Future treatment needs.
Recommended intervals between treatments.