STORY BY LEAH LIZARONDO, BRAZENKITCHEN.COM
PHOTOGRAPHED BY ADAM MILLIRON
STYLING BY MICHELLE PACIS
the XX factor
The female chefs who run this town
TABLE >> winter 2014
It’s 4:45 p.m. at Dinette on a
Friday — fifteen minutes left of
calm before the storm. In the
prep kitchen, Chef Sonja Finn
and Sous Chef Becca Hegarty,
are busy rolling dough. The
process is almost meditative—
cut, weigh, roll, cut, weigh, roll,
repeat. Out front, in the open
kitchen, line chefs are putting
the final touches on their mise
en place. It is almost quiet, like
the hum of a German motor on
a well-made car.
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Fast forward to seven p.m.,
across town, at E2, where Kate
Romane is in the middle of
peak service time at her 28-seat
restaurant with a private event
also happening in the basement
space. The kitchen door swings
back and forth as the front calls
in orders that the back of the
house fills — a feat of communication because, amazingly, there
is no ticket machine. Yet, like an
orchestra feverishly working to a
crescendo, not a single note was
out of tune.
The kitchens at these restaurants — consistently two of the
best in the city — seem to run
counter to the expected convention of testosterone-laden,
machismo-laced chaos. Perhaps because they do exactly
that: run against stereotype.
Finn and Romane are exceptions. Just as with every other
major industry, female-led
kitchens are still underrepresented. So much so that a
recent article in Bloomberg
showed that women are more
likely to become CEOs than
Executive Chefs.
has more women enrolled in the
last incoming class than men.
And according to a recent New
York Times article, while only
10 percent of head chefs are
women, the pipeline is changing
with women representing 30 to
50 percent of back of the house
staff at larger groups like José
Andrés’s Think Food.
However, recent trends show
that is changing. While the
venerated Culinary Institute of
America in Hyde Park did not
accept females until 1970, in 44
years, 44 percent of students
enrolled are female. Johnson &
Wales, in keeping with this trend,
When this ratio tips the scale to
equality, the female chef qualifier will disappear as a relic of
history. Rightly so, because when
female chefs raise the bar, they
do so by sheer force of talent.
Ever heard of Eugénie Brazier?
She was the first chef in the
Or as Sherri Leiphart says,
“Female chefs don’t really care
about being a female chef.”
And yet, there are differences.
The differences can be subtle
yet defining.
world to have six Michelin stars
in 1933. Alain Ducasse is only the
second, and the first male chef
to reach the distinction.
In modern history, we have Julia
Child, Alice Waters, Judy Rogers, April Bloomfield, Barbara
Lynch, to name just a few. And
Pittsburgh, our city whose food
culture is growing by leaps and
bounds, has some of the most
trailblazing restaurants led by
the most talented women:
Jessica Bauer of Altius; Jamilka
Borges of Bar Marco; Carla
Branduzzi of Piccolo Forno;
Danielle Cain of the big Burrito
Group; Sonja Finn of Dinette;
Gloria Fortunato of Wild
Rosemary; Jennifer Gerasole
of Girasole; Sherri Leiphart of
Thin Man Sandwich; and Kate
Romane of E2.
These nine women require no
special categories aside from
their profession. As Prune’s
Gabrielle Hamilton puts it, “the
Gloria Fortunato, whose 30
years as a chef anchor the food
at Wild Rosemary, embraces
some innate advantages of the
feminine, “As chefs, I don’t see
a difference between male and
female except in the fact that
we tend to have more patience,
we multi-task and we have the
maternal instinct that we put in
our food.”
And this maternal instinct is
clear in the way love is wrapped
around every dish and plate that
comes out of the kitchen and
the way many of the chefs credit
this love of their craft back to
their own mothers.
Fortunato credits her mother,
Julia, and the way she would get
excited over the seasons and
the new ingredients they bring.
Finn recognizes her mother’s
talent at balancing family and
career as inspiration for her
work ethic—“she worked 80hour weeks and yet she still put
dinner at the table.” And Jamilka
Borges pays tribute to her mother’s cooking and strength as her
biggest influences.
It is also this love that spurred
their vocation. Not the promise of kleig lights, or pomp and
circumstance.
approached it is with love and
making it fun so the days just fly
by. And that carries through in
all the food.”
Fortunato professes, “I love
food, I love it from beginning to
end.” For Jessica Bauer, cooking
is the expression of love. “I don’t
really show my emotions any
other way. If I feed you, then
we’re good.”
But with these nurturing roots
also come an inordinately strong
drive to make progress.
This love is passed on as it has
been for generations. When
asked what the most valuable
thing his mother Carla has
taught him, Domenic Branduzzi’s answer is swift and
clear, “cook with love.”
With this love, comes food that
is less of a statement than something that is truly meant to give
pleasure and perhaps, comfort.
And nothing is more comforting
than Jennifer Gerasole’s food, “I
have a passion for cuisine, but
also, for making people happy,
I feel like you can do that with
food.” This sentiment is echoed
by Borges, “I love cooking, and I
love seeing people have a good
time, love seeing people enjoy
what I make.”
Hilary Henderson, executive
sous chef at Puck by Wolfgang
in California, worked with Leiphart at Le Pommier and credits
Leiphart’s approach to food as
one of the most valuable things
she has learned in her career.
“Her whole approach to cooking
is that there is so much love
involved. Working in a kitchen
can be tough because it is a
demanding job but the way she
Female-led kitchens are trailblazers not only in food but in
policy. Think of Alice Waters
and how she has not only run
a Michelin-starred restaurant
but has changed the face of
the food movement through it.
Female-led kitchens are also
paving the way in terms of work
policies, bringing progress to lagging restaurant wages, vacation,
and health benefits.
In Pittsburgh, Finn has been
staunch and vocal in her
resolve to provide a living wage
and benefits to all her employees, which are core considerations in decisions she makes
for her business. In an interview
with NPR, she says, “I think that
this industry — the restaurant
industry — has historically been
based on low-wage workers
and in order for this to change,
everyone is going to have to
make some changes.”
With the coming wave of female
chefs leading professional
kitchens, a wave of progress will
change the profession.
You know what they say
about taking the heat? These
women are the fire that keeps
kitchens going. They don’t just
belong in the kitchen. They
own the kitchen.
TABLE >> winter 2014
food has to be cooked and we
all just cook it.” The work, as
she says, is “about the pleasure,
the sheer pleasure of killing
the line on a busy night, setting
those tickets up and knocking
them down.”
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Jessica Bauer
ALTIUS
Jessica Bauer fell into cooking
a little bit by necessity, “When
I was 14 years old, my mom
worked nights as a nurse, and
it was Thanksgiving, so instead
of having my mom cook dinner,
I called my grandmother and
asked her to send me all her
recipes. It turns out I was good at
it so I kept with it.” Bauer made a
beeline for culinary school right
out of high school and worked
at The Carlton where she went
from line cook to sous chef. In
1997, she opened Bistro 19 and
this year, Altius.
Managing two restaurants,
Bauer talks about the rewards
and challenges of hard work, “I
never expected all this. I got into
this to line cook — I never expected to really be a chef. With
Altius, the work is to make sure
we consistently do well. I want to
make sure we make it a longterm success, not trendy, that we
make something for Pittsburgh.”
Jamilka Borges
TABLE >> winter 2014
BAR MARCO
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Jamilka Borges, at 28, already
helms a restaurant that Bon
Appétit has hailed as one of the
best. She grew up in Puerto Rico,
raised by her mother whom she
credits as one of her biggest
influences. “My mother is a good
cook, and she threw dinner parties all the time. She’s my biggest
influence — her strength. She always fought for what she loved.”
Borges moved to Pittsburgh
to attend culinary school and
credits her experience working
under Trevett Hooper at Legume
as one that she is most proud of.
“I’m very proud of being part of
the opening team at Legume—
from a small restaurant to a big
space, the whole time maintaining who we were.”
What does the future hold for
the young chef? “I’d love to open
my own place — food that speaks
to my heritage — a small, casual,
family-oriented place that’s really
fun and loud.”
Carla Branduzzi
PICCOLO FORNO
Thirty years ago, Carla Branduzzi
moved to Italy with her husband,
Antonio, where they started
raising their son, Domenic. While
there, she decided that she’ll
“take the best thing Italy has to
offer and learn to cook.” And she
did it old-school. She worked
at a restaurant and started with
washing dishes and cleaning
the garlic, eventually rising up
the ranks to learn the art of the
cuisine. Antonio learned how to
bake and together they brought
their craft back to Pittsburgh,
opening a bakery in the Strip.
After 15 years, they opened
Piccolo Forno in Lawrenceville,
serving food in the tradition
of the old country. She is the
grand dame of Italian cuisine in
Pittsburgh. At Piccolo Forno, she
leads the kitchen, putting out
20 pounds of fresh pasta a day
along with all the soups, sauces,
risotto and every item on the
menu. “I feel that I do something
that is unusual — continuing with
tradition from Tuscany — making
things by hand from scratch —
the pasta, the sauce. It took me
many years to teach people how
to eat well. At the bakery, we
made traditional Italian pastry—
and people would ask us, “What
is this?” And I had to give so
many samples to show them. It’s
been a 20-year metamorphosis
in cooking and eating — it’s really
taken that long.”
What she finds inspiring? “I
really enjoy working with the
young people that I work with – I
enjoy seeing them come up from
being dishwashers to being a
partner – the best part is being
able to teach people a skill — the
little that I know, I pass on to others. What I do is very specialized
— I give them an opportunity for
the future that I hope they will
pass on.”
Danielle Cain
BIG BURRITO GROUP
Danielle Cain was a math major
at the University of Pittsburgh
and on a whim decided to go to
the culinary school downtown.
She then did an internship at
Casbah, working with Bill Fuller;
that was 10 years ago and the
rest is history. She talks about
her big Burrito family tenderly,
“It’s like a bunch of freaks who
came together and they just fit
together.” She now leads big
Burrito’s catering business and
talks about how being a chef is
more than just cooking, “It’s hard
and takes time. You have to be
a plumber and psychotherapist
for 22-year-old line cooks whose
hearts are broken. You have to
be able to nurse a hangover and
scrub floors. You have to be able
to manage work and manage
your family. You have to do it all.”
But she does it all with grace
and Fuller gives credit to Cain’s
unwavering attitude, “She laughs
a lot — its important to keep a
happy and fun environment,
people love working for her. We
all have our moodiness — but she
has less of them. She teaches
us all to take a minute and think
about what’s going on and smile.
She is such a positive influence
in the kitchen.”
Her advice to new chefs?
“Diversify — commit yourself to
where you’re working and be
THE
CHEFS
DANIELLE CAIN
SHERRI LEIPHART
KATE ROMANE
GLORIA FORTUNATO
JESSICA BAUER
JENNIFER GERASOLE
CARLA BRANDUZZI
TABLE >> winter 2014
SONJA FINN
JAMILKA BORGES
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loyal – but then have a good
enough relationship to be able
to say it’s time to move on. Take
something good and something
bad from everybody and figure
out who you are for yourself. “
Sonja Finn
TABLE >> winter 2014
DINETTE
64
After senior year in high school,
Sonja Finn spent her summers
working as a prep cook at Bon
Vivant where Tony Pais would
tell her she should be a chef.
She would say, “No, I’m going
to be a filmmaker. Or something.” Then, while at Columbia
University, she read Jeffery
Steingarten’s How to Eat Everything and decided to eschew
plans to study urban planning
and instead, attend the Culinary
Institute of America, where she
received a scholarship. She then
moved to San Francisco to work
under Judy Rogers at the celebrated Zuni Café. In 2008, after
over a decade of being away,
Finn came back home to open
Dinette. In 2009 and 2010, Finn
was a semi-finalist for the James
Beard Foundation’s “Rising Star
Chef of the Year” and 2011 and
2012, she was a nominee for
Food & Wine’s “People’s Best
New Chef.”
Dinette, along with Legume,
is one of Pittsburgh’s most
progressive restaurants. Finn has
embraced a sustainable ethos
in all aspects of her business
— from sourcing to paying her
employees a living wage.
On sustainability, Finn
believes, “it goes with the
bottom line, too. I could go to
urban planning school and have
these large-scale plans but I’m a
business owner now. I want to
have a business where I provide
11 good jobs. That’s what’s most
important to me.”
Gloria Fortunato
WILD ROSEMARY
After serving as an officer in
county police, Gloria Fortunato
went to culinary school and
found her calling. For years
she worked at Café Allegro,
perfecting her style, growing
into the distinct philosophy
that she brings to every plate at
Wild Rosemary. “Once I had my
own place, I just became more
free. The food is reflective of my
upbringing. It’s simple. I invest in
quality ingredients, I don’t “foam
it up.” It’s my food, my restaurant.
I touch every plate.”
Why did she become a chef?
“I love food. I love it from beginning to end. I do it for myself.
That’s the beauty of your own
place. I only do what I want to
do. It’s my therapy. My outlet. I
don’t want to be out of my kitchen, I want to be in my kitchen.”
Jennifer Gerasole
GIRASOLE
Jennifer Gerasole jokes that
she got her start when her
employers offered her health
insurance when she was happily tending bar in Myrtle Beach.
The prospect of a “grown up
job” spooked her enough to
hightail it to culinary school,
which of course, was the start
of what would be Girasole and
its almost 15-year history. With
a landmark restaurant and a
family with three kids, Jennifer is testament that you can
lean in and have it all. “I’m so
proud of the fact that after all
these years, our business is still
growing. And that we have such
a following of customers that
really love us and feel like they
are part of our family.”
Her advice for young chefs?
“I think you should get into this
profession to have fun. Food is
exciting and I think that while
you give it respect you should
also really enjoy it.”
Sherri Leiphart
THIN MAN SANDWICH
Sherri Leiphart remembers
being seven years old, working
in the kitchen with her mom,
rolling phyllo dough and puff
pastry, “doing all sorts of fancy
cooking.” Fast-forward almost
two decades and an art school
detour, she finds herself in culinary school. There she would
meet her would-be husband,
Dan, with whom she opened
Thin Man Sandwich, churning
out inventive food that redefines a standard.
Who is her biggest influence? “It’s not a person, it’s
going to Italy — and experiencing an authentic cuisine. It
reinforced everything I believed
about the simplicity of food. It
can be the most beautiful thing
if done correctly.”
Kate Romane
E2
Kate Romane came to Pittsburgh for what she thought was
a visit. But in Pittsburgh, she
discovered her love for food.
She found herself immersed
in the food culture of the Strip
District while working at Enrico’s,
learning from neighbors who
cooked from tradition. “There is
a car garage back there where
the owner would make lunch
for his friends in the basement.
He taught me how to make red
sauce, how to cook baccalà.”
She opened E2 in Highland
Park, which has become one
of the city’s favorites. Shortly
after, she expanded it with a
Kickstarter-funded event space
and this year launched Kate
Romane Productions staging Big
Table, a series of in situ dinners
at Pittsburgh landmarks.
What keeps her going?
“Farms and the food that comes
from them, are my biggest
influences. Being able to be connected to the food and having
that dictate the menu more than
anything else – that is where I
get my creativity. The success of
the restaurant has been amazing
and totally unexpected. And the
dinner parties are a dream that
I’ve always had — being able to
bring them to all these different
locations, to showcase the city
as well as the food.”
Fuzzi stretch tulle dress, $470,
Larrimor's. larrimors.com. Nina
rhinestone strappy heels, $99,
Littles Shoes. littlesshoes.com.
Michael Aram Baroque pearl
and orchid earring, $850. Michael
Aram blue topaz and amethyst
bracelets, $980 each. Michael
Aram pearl, amethyst, and sterling
silver bracelet, $1,400. Michael
Aram orchid sterling silver and
pink sapphire ring, $425.
STYLING
CREDITS
DANIELLE CAIN
SONJA FINN
Hugo Boss men's two-piece
suit, $895, Robert Talbott
pocket square, $50, and Hook +
Albert lapel flower, Larrimor's.
Model's own shoes. Mrs. T ear
climber earring and stud, brown
diamonds, $2,300. Amelia Jewel
amethyst necklace, $690. Black
spinel and gold necklace, $950.
Black spinel and sterling silver
necklace, $250. Mrs. T brown
diamond ring, $660.
GLORIA FORTUNATO
Damianou three-piece lace ensemble (jacket not shown), $675,
Linton's. lintonswaterfront.com.
Lady Couture slingback heels,
$140, Littles Shoes. Roberto DeMeglio white diamond and black
rhodium earrings, $25,000. Amelia
Jewel Baroque black and white
pearl necklace, $12,000. Roberto
DeMeglio stretch gold and white
diamond bracelet, $13,000.
SHERRI LEIPHART
Suprema leather jacket, $1,145,
and Fuzzi strapless dress, $395,
Larrimor's. Model's own shoes.
Louis Anthony Collection 20
carat white diamond earrings,
$84,000. J.R. Gold 18k yellow
gold and diamond ring, $12,500.
JESSICA BAUER
Diane von Furstenberg wrap
dress, $498. Nina strappy heels,
$89, Littles Shoes. Gucci "Marina"
hoop earrings, $1,100. Gucci
Horsebit necklace, $4,150. Gucci
five row traditional "Marina"
bracelet, $11,500.
JAMILKA BORGES
Etro double knit jacket, $1,535,
Nina McElmore blouse, $150, and
Marchesa Voyage pant, $348,
Larrimor's. Nina rhinestone strappy heels, $99, Littles Shoes. Vista
double hoop earrings, $14,000.
Louis Anthony Collection
ruby-eyed frog pin (worn in hair),
$26,000.
KATE ROMANE
Model's own dress. Magaschoni
cashmere and Swarovski crystal
shawl, $348, Larrimor's. Model's
own shoes. Louis Anthony Collection yellow gold hoop earrings,
$6,500. Stephen Webster 18k
yellow diamond and opalescent
pendant, $18,150. Stephen Webster 18k yellow gold opalescent
and diamond ring, $7,000.
JENNIFER GERASOLE
All jewelry, courtesy of Louis
Anthony Jewelers. louisanthony.
com. Special thanks to
Veronica and Amie Guarino.
Hair and makeup by Chaz Young
and Nichole Langhorst of Jeffery
Smith Studio, jefferysmithstudio.
com, and Toni Bishoff and Denise
Serbin of Sognatore Salon,
sognatore.com.
Wardrobe assistant is Aimee
Kachmar. All styling by
Michelle Pacis.
Le Petite Robe gown, $895,
Linton's. Model's own shoes.
Mariani La Contessa earrings,
$13,000. Mariani La Contessa
necklace, $32,000.
CARLA BRANDUZZI
TABLE >> winter 2014
Monique Lhullier gown, $898,
Catherina. 412.828.1995. Nina
rhinestone strappy heels, $99,
Littles Shoes. Louis Anthony Collection sterling silver rock crystal
and diamond earrings, $1,500.
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