Decorating fabrics
Learning ladder
You must:
• recognize and name a range of different methods for decorating fabrics.
• compare techniques to decide which is best to use.
You should:
• consider the user and end product when choosing techniques.
• design products that include a variety of decorative techniques.
You could:
• annotate technical drawings to describe how to do decorative techniques.
• describe how each decorative technique is carried out in industry, along
with names of machines.
© Folens 2009
Decorating fabrics (1)
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Fabrics can be decorated in a range of
different ways. Some techniques such as
appliqué add texture to the fabric as well as
pattern.
As well as adding to the aesthetic qualities of
a product some forms of decoration also have
functions, e.g. adding warmth and protection.
When decorating a fabric you should consider
the purpose or function of the technique,
where it will be used, the fabrics and
components that will be used, if the product
will need to be washed, who the user will be,
manufacturing considerations, aesthetics and
the effect you are trying to achieve.
© Folens 2009
Decorating fabrics (2)
• Quality control tip: press each technique
as you complete it, as this will give your
product a better overall finish.
• In your exam you might be asked to use
notes and annotated drawings to explain
how to decorate fabrics.
• Preparing samples of techniques and
writing notes as you do them will help
you revise this.
© Folens 2009
Appliqué (1)
• Appliqué is where one fabric is attached on top of another using
either hand or machine stitches.
• It is a good way of using up scrap fabrics and can also reinforce
areas that might get a lot of wear and tear, or cover up damage
to a product.
• To do appliqué one fabric shape is applied on top of another or
alternatively a shape can be cut out of the top layer and another
layer of fabric put behind it so that the appliqué is in reverse.
• Appliqué is often interfaced to give it body and strength.
Bondaweb can also be used to hold appliqué in place while
stitching.
© Folens 2009
Appliqué (2)
• The mountains in this appliqué are applied in reverse and the
skier is applied on the surface.
© Folens 2009
How to do appliqué (1)
• Lockstitch the fabric shape into place
(interfacing can be used to add body
and strength). Bondaweb can be used
to hold it in place.
• Machine a row of tight zigzag stitches
close to the edge of the fabric.
© Folens 2009
How to do appliqué (2)
Quality control tip
• Make sure corners are covered and
keep stitches on top layer of fabric not
half on and half off.
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Appliquéd products
Appliqué spots
on a bag
Appliqué design
on a hat
Reverse appliqué
on a jacket
© Folens 2009
Quilting
• Quilting is the sewing together of a
sandwich of several layers of fabric
to produce a 3D padded effect.
Wadding is usually used in the
centre of quilting but fabric can also
be used depending on the padded
effect that is required.
• Quilted fabrics provide insulation
and are often used for coats and
clothing. They can also provide
protection. Traditionally, quilted
fabrics were used under suits of
armour to protect the wearer.
© Folens 2009
Quilted products
Quilted jacket
Quilted oven glove
Quilted slipper
© Folens 2009
Patchwork
• Patchwork is a technique
where fabric shapes are cut
out and sewn back together to
make a new fabric. This is a
good way of using recycled
fabrics.
• A variety of different fabric
shapes can be cut out and
sewn together. Coloured and
patterned fabrics can be used
to create images and patterns.
© Folens 2009
Patchwork products
Football made
from hexagons
patchworked
together
Cathedral window
patchwork cushion
Patchwork quilt
© Folens 2009
Embroidery
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Embroidery refers to the use of threads and stitches to decorate the surface
of a fabric. It can be carried out by hand or by machine.
There are different types of hand embroidery but they are all time
consuming to do. If hand embroidery is done on a product to be sold in the
shops this can add to the costs considerably because of the labour costs.
French knots
Blanket stitch
Chain stitch
Couching
Satin stitch
© Folens 2009
Types of embroidery
Cross-stitch
embroidery is made
from small crosses
Smocking consists
of pleated fabric with
embroidery stitched
across the pleats
CAM embroidery
© Folens 2009
Other embellishment techniques
Shisha work
• An Indian technique where
small mirrors are embroidered
onto fabric.
Beads and sequins
• Can also be used to decorate
products. As with embroidery
they are time consuming to
sew on and increase the cost
of a manufactured product.
© Folens 2009
Printing and dyeing
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Printing is the application of a dye to the surface of a
fabric to create a coloured or pattern finish. Dyes used
for printing tend to be of a thicker consistency than the
watery dyes used for dyeing.
Dyeing is where fabric is immersed into a dye bath and
all the fabric changes colour. The fibre, yarn, fabric or
product can be dyed: fibre dyeing being the most
expensive and product dyeing being the cheapest
method. A product can also be dipped into dye but not
fully submerged with the dye being allowed to absorb
into the fabric unevenly. This is called dip dyeing.
Both printed and dyed fabrics are fixed with heat so
they are colourfast and don’t run when washed or
rubbed.
Dip dyeing
© Folens 2009
Natural or synthetic dyes?
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Originally dyes came from natural sources
such as plants, and so on, but now
synthetic dyes are used in most cases. Any
vegetable or plant that stains can be used
as a dye, e.g. onion, beetroot, blueberries.
Although natural dyes are sustainable, very
large amounts have to be collected and
energy costs for collection and preparation
can be high and production rates slow.
Synthetic dyes are chemical based but a
wider range of colours is available and their
production can be more precisely
controlled.
© Folens 2009
Smart dyes
• ‘Smart’ dyes react to heat
(thermochromic) or UV light
(photochromic) by changing colour.
Phosphorescent dyes store up light
energy and transform it into visible
light.
• They are used for fun fashion products
and can also be used medically to
indicate temperature changes or as a
sun warning in children’s clothing.
• The dyes can be used on fabrics,
sewing threads and beads.
© Folens 2009
Sublimation printing
• Sublimation printing is where a
design is printed onto special
paper and then heat is
transferred by a press or
heated rollers onto a fabric.
• The heat causes the dye to
turn into a gas, at which point it
diffuses onto the fabric.
• It can only be done on fabrics
with at least 50% synthetic
fibre content.
Sublimation
printing
© Folens 2009
Transfer printing
• Transfer printing uses a similar
process to sublimation printing
but the heat melts dots of waxbased ink that have been
printed onto the paper and
these stick to the fabric.
• In school you might use transfer
paper. This is a specialist paper
you can put through an ordinary
printer. You iron the paper onto
fabric and peel it away and the
design transfers onto the fabric.
Transfer printing
© Folens 2009
Block and roller printing (1)
• Block printing is the
traditional method by which
fabrics were printed. Wooden
blocks were carved with
designs and these were then
coated with dye and stamped
onto fabric.
© Folens 2009
Block and roller printing (2)
• Industrial roller printing uses
the principal of block printing
by using an engraved roller
which rolls across fabric,
transferring the image.
• A separate roller is needed for
each colour.
© Folens 2009
Screen printing (1)
Screen printing
• Screen printing uses screens across which a fine gauze fabric has
been stretched.
• The fabric is blocked off with special gum or a UV reactive solution
so that the dye will only penetrate the areas of the screen that
haven’t been coated.
• A different screen is needed for each colour.
• The screen is placed on the fabric and dye placed along the bottom.
• A squeegee drags the dye across the screen pushing it through the
unprotected areas.
© Folens 2009
Screen printing (2)
Flat bed screen printing
• In flat bed screen printing the
screens are lowered onto the
fabric and dye is applied, and
the screen is then lifted and the
fabric moves forward to the
next screen, then the next, and
so on.
Photo Courtesy of Lawson Screen & Digital Products
© Folens 2009
Screen printing (3)
Carousel screen printing
• In carousel screen printing, items such as t-shirts are stretched
over arms on a circular machine.
• The screens/squeegee and so on, process works the same as flat
bed screen printing.
• The carousel moves around allowing the worker to access the
product more easily.
© Folens 2009
Screen printing (4)
Rotary screen printing
• In rotary screen printing the
screens are wrapped
around cylinders rather
than being flat screens.
• Dye is pumped into the
middle of the screen which
rolls across the fabric
transferring the print.
© Folens 2009
Other types of printing (1)
Digital printers
• Digital printers look like ordinary
printers but they print directly onto
fabric. The machines are expensive but
they can significantly increase
production as the fabric printing stage
is quicker.
• Digital printers can also be used for
rapid prototyping where pattern shapes
can be printed with the fabric design
ready for manufacturing.
© Folens 2009
Other types of printing (2)
Discharge printing
• Discharge printing refers to the printing
of a paste/bleach that removes colour
from an already dyed dark fabric, e.g.
white spots on a black fabric.
Flock printing
• Flock printing refers to a fabric that has
been printed with a glue to which fibre
snippets are applied. This produces a
fabric with velvety areas.
© Folens 2009
Industrial dyeing (1)
Batch dyeing
• When dyeing batches of fabric/products the
items are placed in a dye bath and moved
around by winches or pushed around by
high-pressure jets.
Continuous dyeing
• When larger amounts of fabrics are being dyed, continuous dyeing systems
are used, where the fabric is fed through a small dye bath and then through
rollers that ensure the dye penetrates the fabric. The fabric then passes
through a fixing machine. This is one continuous process with completed
dyed and fixed fabric being produced.
© Folens 2009
Industrial dyeing (2)
Semi-continuous dyeing
• Semi-continuous dyeing works in
the same way as continuous dyeing
but the dyed fabric is put onto a
roller and is fixed by being placed in
a heated docking station.
Continuous
dyeing machine
© Folens 2009
Resist dyeing – tie and dye (1)
• Resist dyeing is where
something is applied to the
fabric to ‘resist’ the dye.
• Tie and dye involves fabric
being tied with string, elastic
bands or in knots and then
dipped in dye. The way the
fabric is tied and folded
changes the pattern that is
made.
© Folens 2009
How to do tie and dye
© Folens 2009
Tie and dye products
© Folens 2009
Resist dyeing – batik
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Batik is a resist technique that uses wax to
resist the dye.
Hot wax is applied to the fabric using a
tjanting tool and when cool the fabric is
dipped in the dye.
When the fabric is dry the wax is ironed off
with absorbent paper.
A characteristic of batik is the cracking of
the wax which gives a distinctive fine line
cracked effect on the fabric.
In industry, rollers can print wax onto fabric.
Silk painting uses Gutta as a resist is
similar to batik.
Batik resist
Source: http://www.batikguild.org.uk/index.asp
© Folens 2009
Revision tip
Remember the different methods of decorating fabric by making a word
and phrase from the first letter of each technique heading.
PDQ PEAS – Pretty Damn Quick PEAS
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Printing
Dyeing
Quilting
Patchwork
Embroidery
Appliqué
Sequins and beads
© Folens 2009
Extension (1)
• The manufacturer would like to put colour and pattern onto a fabric.
• Name two different methods they could use to decorate the fabric.
• Use notes and diagrams to describe how to do appliqué.
© Folens 2009
Extension (2)
• Explain why appliqué would be a suitable technique to
decorate a textiles product with.
Revision tip
• The wording of this question could be changed to include any
method of decorating a fabric.
© Folens 2009