National Safe Boating Council
Open Water
Boat Control
Timothy Delgado, courtesy of the Connecticut Department of Energy and Environmental Protection
STUDENT TRAINING MANUAL
First Edition — 2013
Acknowledgements
Development of a concise manual like the Open Water Boat Control Student Training Manual is
not an easy or quick endeavor. The team of National Safe Boating Council (NSBC) Instructors
who spearheaded this program’s development was guided by the design and methodology of the
Essentials of Close-Quarters Boat Control Manual and training program. The bar was set high
from that previous, successful work. I believe they have surpassed that prior effort.
Open Water Boat Control focuses on the set of critical skills needed by a boat operator to proceed
away from the comparative lower risk of protected water and venture into open water to open the
throttle and cruise safely and efficiently. Determination of the needed skill sets was not simple.
The authors’ approach to boat control on open water is combined with a solid understanding of boat
design, propulsion and environmental conditions that influence boat handling coupled with proper
decision-making for the novice boater. Each skill was studied, practiced, and observed with the goal
to create a logical, easy-to-follow learning progression.
I wish to acknowledge and thank the team of NSBC instructors and trainers who made this program
happen. Team leader Emily King (NSBC Training Director), Doug Golding, Betsy Woods
and
Captain Jeff Gunn were the writers. They were assisted by some of the finest instructors in
the United States, including Captain Ed Huntsman, Captain Jim Battye and Cindy Bellar.
The significant contributions of these instructors have gone beyond those of subject matter experts.
Each has a deep dedication and commitment to safer and enjoyable boating. Their commitment
is seen in this new approach to instruction for on-water skills. I also thank Debbie Huntsman,
Designer/Illustrator; Ruthie Marlenée, Editor; Sheila Chappell, NSBC Office Manager; and
Fred Messmann, NSBC Deputy Director, who also helped to edit and proof the manual.
A special thanks to our Technical Grant Manager, Mr. Mike Baron, U.S. Coast Guard Headquarters
(Washington D.C.), and to the U.S. Coast Guard Boating Safety Division Office of Auxiliary
and Boating Safety for the administering grant support from the Sport Fish Restoration and Boating
Trust Fund, which funded development of the Open Water Boat Control Student Training Manual.
Finally, a huge thank you goes to the men and women of the Ohio Department of Natural Resources
Division of Watercraft, Tennessee Wildlife Resources Agency, Connecticut Department of Energy
and Environmental Protection and the Arizona Fish and Game Department for support with onwater sites and boats. Their contributions, feedback, and insight as pilot training agencies served to
greatly advance this program. We hope their contributions will be returned to them in the
advancement and refinement of safe boat operation in their areas of oversight and protection.
A special note: This manual is a working document and will be updated as the program grows and
technology changes to stay on the cutting edge of training. I am sure the individuals identified
above will insist on it! On behalf of boaters nationwide, thanks to each of you, and all others who
helped in producing the NSBC Open Water Boat Control program.
Virgil Chambers, Executive Director
National Safe Boating Council
TABLE OF CONTENTS
BEFORE YOU BEGIN
Arrows and Wakes in Graphics
Purpose
Student Prerequisites
Responsibility
Proper Lookout
Safe Speed
Risk of Collision
Action to Avoid Collision
Environmental Awareness
Equipment
Terminology
Disclaimer
1
2
2
2
2
2
3
3
3
3
3
3
PERFORMANCE
Basic Hull Design and Performance
Directional Thrust
Pivot Point
Transition from Displacement to Planing Mode
Transition from Planing to Displacement Mode
Recognize Minimum Planing RPM
4
4
4
5
5
5
TRIM
Boat Trim
Engine Trim
Trim Tabs
Porpoising
Chine Walking
6
6
6
7
7
TURNS
Steering the Boat
Steering Straight on Plane
Gradual Turns on Plane
Sharp Turns on Plane
Avoidance Turns
8
8
8
9
10
STOPS
Stopping Under Control
Coasting Stop from Plane
Urgency Stop from Plane
Emergency Stop from Plane
11
11
12
12
Crossing Wakes and Waves
13
Weathervane Effect
Ferrying and Ferry Angle in Wind
Holding Station in Wind
14
14
15
Current Terms
Ferrying and Ferry Angle in Current
Holding Station in Current
16
16
17
Retrieving a Person from Overboard
Heavy Weather
18
19
A Message from the
Executive Director
This Open Water Boat Control Student Training Manual is the guide for the second segment of the
National Safe Boating Council’s boat operator training program. Essentials of Close-Quarters Boat
Control is the initial training that should be successfully completed before embarking on the skills
and maneuvers discussed in this manual. It is not because the skills in the second segment are more
difficult, because they are not. It is because the close-quarters training provides the fundamental
knowledge of how a boat operates. These skills are carried out through this next phase under safe,
competent boat operation and control.
In this second segment, the operator is out in the open water under calm conditions. An understanding
of equipment, terminology, and basic operator preparedness is discussed and reviewed. The concepts
of safe operation are applied with the theoretical knowledge of boat control along with the
U.S. Inland Navigation Rules governing how one responds to other boats on the open water.
This training, unlike the Close-Quarters Boat Control, permits the student to operate beyond the
slow/idle speed. Wind and current still affect the boat’s operation and should be accounted for
during some of the skills presented. Remember, the same principles apply as they did in
Close-Quarters Boat Control. New topics such as boat and engine trim, minimum planing
revolutions per minute (RPM), maneuvers while on plane, avoidance turns and crossing wakes and
waves will be properly demonstrated and accomplished. When correctly practiced and applied,
the skills covered in this manual combined with those learned in the Essentials of Close-Quarters
Boat Control will give you the basics for being a safe and responsible boat operator.
Safe and enjoyable boating,
Virgil Chambers
Executive Director
National Safe Boating Council
BOAT HANDLING IN
WAKES AND WAVES
BOAT HANDLING
IN WIND
BOAT HANDLING
IN CURRENT
EMERGENCIES AND
RESCUES
GLOSSARY OF BOATING
TERMS AND PHRASES
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Before You Begin
Wakes in graphics
Wakes provide further information on the boat state
and speed.
Arrows and Wakes in Graphics
Throttle revolutions per minute (RPM) setting
arrows in graphics
throttle at idle RPM
throttle at displacement RPM (above idle)
wake in displacement
turning in displacement
boat in planing mode and throttle is being
reduced for maneuvers or turns
throttle at planing RPM
wake in plowing
Throttle direction setting arrows in graphics
Arrow(s) at the stern of the boat show(s) the direction
in which the propulsion and steering wheel are acting
on the stern. An arrow pointing aft indicates reverse
gear; if pointing forward, forward gear. Arrows do
not indicate the direction the boat is moving because
engine(s) can be in reverse while a boat is making
headway. Absence of an arrow means neutral.
wake in planing
turning
(planing reducing RPM)
making neither headway or sternway
reverse gear
forward gear
WIND
neutral
Steering direction setting arrows in graphics
Arrow(s) at the stern of the boat also indicate(s) the
propulsion and steering setting and turns as gradual or
sharp.
gradual (wide) turn
(in displacement)
sharp (tight) turn
(in displacement)
gradual turn
(planing)
sharp turn
(planing reducing RPM)
WIND
Wind arrows in graphics
Arrows representing the wind
direction are labeled as such and
show the direction of the wind’s
travel. The arrows always point
downwind, to leeward.
Current arrows in
graphics
Arrows representing the
direction of the current
in the water.
Ferry arrows in graphics
Arrows representing the ferry
direction of the boat over the water.
1
INTRODUCTION TO OPEN WATER BOAT CONTROL
Purpose
Responsibility
Risk of Collision
Terminology
This course is intended to train a boat operator to control
a boat in normal daytime, calm open water “cruising”
situations. It builds upon the step-by-step skills the student
learned in the Essentials of Close-Quarters Boat Control
Course. This course provides instruction of basic boat
control skills, primarily through hands-on training on the
water with a certified instructor. It will enable the novice
and even the experienced boater to gain confidence and to
have safer and more enjoyable boating experiences.
Open bodies of water are gateways to various boating
activities, including cruising, water skiing, tubing,
PWCs, paddling, etc. Nothing will exonerate any vessel,
operator, owner, master or crew from the consequences of
complying with the U.S. Inland Navigation Rules, or of
neglecting any required precaution by the ordinary practice
of seamen, or by the special circumstances of the case.
Every boat/vessel shall use all available means appropriate
to the prevailing circumstances and conditions to determine if
risk of collision exists. If in doubt, such risk shall exist.
Descriptions of the skills in this course utilize a high
degree of accuracy in terminology. To prevent confusion,
the student must have a complete understanding of the
terminology used throughout the text and on the water.
The goal of this manual is to introduce the basic boat
handling concepts along with terminology to augment and
reinforce the on-water training. The student boater can
study this information prior to actual instruction. This
manual can also be used on the water to clarify instruction
through its illustrations. This manual is not intended to
teach skills without the assistance of an instructor.
The best way to learn boat control is through instruction,
study and actual hands-on experience. This course will
provide the step-by-step skills and then have you, the
student, apply them to actual maneuvers. First, the skills
will be conducted in displacement mode. As student
proficiency is developed, the skills will then be performed
in planing mode. Each boat is different, so part of the
exploration will be to find the boat’s ideal cruising speed
for the skills in this course. This ideal cruising speed is
when the boat levels off on plane and speed begins to
increase. The throttle must be reduced to reach the cruising
speed. If the throttle is reduced too much, the boat will lose
speed and the bow will rise. The point on plane where the
bow levels off and before it increases speed will be called
the minimum planing RPM for this training course. For
this training course, the skills will be performed at the
minimum planing RPM — no faster.
In complying with the rules, due regard shall be given to all
dangers of navigation and collision and to any special
circumstances, including the limits of the vessels involved,
which may make a departure from these rules necessary to
avoid immediate danger.
Any action taken to avoid collision shall be positive, made
in ample time and with due regard to good seamanship.
Any alteration of course or speed shall be substantial to be
readily apparent to another boat/vessel observing visually
or by radar. Action taken shall result in passing at a safe
distance. If necessary to avoid collision, a boat/vessel shall
slacken speed, stop or reverse.
Proper Lookout
Environmental Awareness
Every boat shall, at all times, maintain a proper look-out by
sight and hearing as well as by all available means
appropriate in the prevailing circumstances and conditions
so as to make a full appraisal of the situation and the risk
of collision.
Fun on the water depends on weather and water conditions.
A boater learns through experiences to observe the changes
in the wind, clouds, waves and current. As skills progress,
the boater will be able to handle more challenging
conditions. A boater always needs to be aware of any
changing conditions.
This skill involves a constant awareness of other boats
and potential hazards in the environment. The operator
must continuously make 360 degree scans of the area and
pay most attention in the direction the boat is travelling.
This monitoring of boats, hazards, water conditions and
weather is called situational awareness. The student
shall maintain this situational awareness and constantly
evaluate all contacts to ensure risk of collision does not
occur. This is necessary as our boat or other boats may
change course and/or speed at any time that shall require
the student to take action to avoid collision. This action is
a determination of whether our boat is the stand-on or
give-way vessel. This skill is an ongoing process from
beginning to the end of the voyage.
Student Prerequisites
Safe Speed
Students must have completed a National Safe Boating
Council (NSBC) Essentials of Close-Quarters Boat Control
Course prior to this training course. They must also have
completed a National Association of State Boating Law
Administrators (NASBLA)-approved basic boating safety
course as well as meet the legal requirements of the state
where the course is being conducted.
Boating varies during the different days of the week with
the number of boats on the waterway, daytime versus
nighttime, the presence of background light at night,
visibility including fog, calm versus waves, the stopping
and turning abilities of your boat, and the draft in relation to
the depth of the water. All these factors must be taken into
account in determining a safe speed. Even during the
course, minimum planning RPM may be too fast for the
current conditions. Adjustments will be made for each boat
to proceed at a safe speed so that it can take proper and
effective action to avoid collision and be stopped within a
distance appropriate to the prevailing circumstances and
conditions.
Students must have a good theoretical knowledge of basic
boating practices. The U.S. Inland Navigation Rules will
be complied with at all times and students will apply the
Steering and Sailing Rules as they meet boats throughout
this training course. They will also need to be familiar with
aids to navigation and adhere to the meaning and
regulatory instructions of these aids.
2
Action to Avoid Collision
The glossary provides many definitions of terms used
throughout the manual. Words shown in italic bold are
included in the glossary.
The following is a review of terms from the Essentials of
Close-Quarters Boat Control that will also be used in this
course. The following terms describe the gear that the boat
is in, not necessarily the direction of movement for the boat.
Forward
Reverse
Neutral
Headway
Sternway
in forward gear
in reverse gear
out of gear
moving forward through the water
moving backward through the water
Below are more terms used throughout this course.
This course is to be conducted during daylight hours in
normal, calm conditions, as well as in light-to-gentle
breeze conditions. Water conditions should be preferably
calm but depending on the boat and students, the training
may be conducted in choppy conditions.
Heading
the direction the boat is traveling
Equipment
Minimum Planing RPM
the lower end of planing mode. It is the point
just on plane when the boat levels off and
before speed increases. The throttle must be
reduced to maintain this desired speed. If the
throttle is reduced too much, the boat will lose
speed, the bow will rise, and the boat will have
missed the desired speed, and may return to
plowing mode.
Maximum Displacement RPM
the upper end of displacement mode. It is the
point just before the bow starts to rise slightly
and begins plowing.
Boats to be used in this course must be wheel-steered,
stern-drive (I/O) or outboard powered, with either single
or twin engines, and ideally of center-console design.
The boat should be in the range of 18–26 feet in length.
The boat needs to have enough seating and standing area
for a minimum of four students and one instructor when
underway. The boat should have an engine stop lanyard
or an emergency stop switch.
Disclaimer
Gear shifting and throttle functions should be combined in
one lever for each engine. All of the boat’s mechanical
systems must be working properly. Trim tabs and engine(s)
position(s) will be taught in the course as applicable.
This course and text use certain techniques to keep the
novice safe while skill and experience are gained. To a
degree, the techniques are subjective, due in part to the
wide range of factors influencing boat handling. Boat
design is a major factor. Discovering how a specific
boat performs can only be accomplished on the water.
Therefore, a disclaimer is warranted. This content cannot
guarantee a positive outcome; thus it carries no warranty,
expressed or implied.
3
Performance
Transition From
Planing to Displacement Mode
Basic Hull Design and Performance
Boat hulls have many different designs and are usually built
for a specific purpose or type of operation. These hull types
include displacement hulls, semi-displacement hulls and
planing hulls. Displacement hulls are large hulls with a lot
of draft and are designed for slow speeds and carrying large
loads for cargo or passengers. It takes a smaller engine or
engines to power it up to its maximum speed, usually no
greater than ten to fifteen knots.
As the stern moves to the left, the bow then turns to the right
with the stern swinging rapidly to the left, and the bow
moving much slower to the right. It is best to monitor the
amount of your turn by observing the stern movement.
In reverse gear, the stern is pulled to the right or left.
In reverse, directional thrust is not as powerful as forward
because of the inefficiency of the propeller in reverse.
That being said, directed thrust in reverse does pull the stern
in the desired direction much more efficiently than an
inboard powered boat.
This manual is designed to address the characteristics and
operation of planing hull boats. Planing hulls are designed
with a flatter bottom with a vee forward. With sufficient
power and at a fast speed, the hull will ride up or plane
on the water. Planing hulls need a lot of power and speed
to get the boat up out of the water and on plane. Semidisplacement hulls are a combination of the displacement
and planing hulls, and can make better speed than a
displacement hull but will never plane.
If we want to back to the right, turn the wheel right and shift
into reverse. The directed thrust of the propeller in reverse
will pull the stern to the right. The stern will move slowly to
the right, but be aware of the rapid swing of the bow to the
left. Keep it in control.
The increased efficiency and relative ease of maneuvering
using directed thrust from an outboard or I/O has attributed to
the overwhelming popularity of these engines instead of the
old straight inboard engine with a fixed prop and rudder.
All boats, regardless of hull design, are in displacement
mode at slow speeds. The Close-Quarters Boat Control
course covered all skills in displacement mode. This Open
Water course will cover both displacement and planing and
the transition to and from each mode.
Pivot Point
As a boat turns, it pivots on its axis which
will be located along the centerline
of the boat somewhere between the
bow and stern. The pivot point
location will vary in boats
depending on hull design,
trim, water conditions
and boat speed. When a
boat is in forward gear
and making headway,
or moving ahead, the
typical pivot point is
about one third back
from the bow.
Directional Thrust
In the Open Water course, we will be using boats which are
powered by outboard engines or inboard/outboard (I/O)
engines for propulsion. In a conventional inboard powered
boat, the propeller is fixed on the shaft and relies on rudder
action to turn the boat. On an outboard or I/O, the propeller is
mounted on the bottom of the lower unit. The entire outboard
or the lower unit of an I/O swings right or left as the steering
wheel is turned. The lower units of outboards and I/O’s are
designed as foils and act as rudders helping to turn the boat.
When all power is taken off and the boat is in neutral, the boat
will maintain steering by rudder control as long as there is
residual headway or sternway.
When in reverse gear and having sternway, the pivot point
moves aft to a spot somewhere one third to one quarter from
the stern. As the boat turns around the pivot point in
forward gear, the stern travels more quickly and in a much
larger radius than the bow. It is advisable to watch the stern
as the boat progresses through the turn. In reverse, the pivot
point moves well aft as the directed thrust pulls the stern
either right or left. Keep a sharp eye on the bow as it will
swing quickly and can easily get out of control.
The big advantage of directed thrust is the high-pressure
discharge current directed to one side of the boat pushing the
stern of the boat into a turn with much greater efficiency.
This directed thrust provides extremely effective directional
control when powering ahead or astern. With the wheel
centered and in forward gear, the boat will steer straight
because the directed thrust is aimed straight astern. As the
wheel is turned in forward gear, the stern is pushed to the
right or left as a result of the thrust being directed in either
direction. If you want to make a right turn, turn the wheel to
the right. The lower unit angles towards the right side of the
transom and the directed thrust pushes the stern to the left.
4
The pivot point may move aft as a boat transitions from
displacement speed to planing speed. As the boat comes
onto a plane, as much as one third of the forward hull may
ride above the water and the pivot point may be as far back
as the middle of the boat on center line. At high speed,
the combination of directed thrust and a lot of rudder effect
from the lower unit can cause a lot of turning inertia and the
boat may slide sideways. If this happens, slow down.
Trimming the boat by adjusting load or using trim tabs
may also have an effect on the pivot point. Take your time
in getting the feel of your boat. Don’t use any more speed
or turn of the wheel than necessary. While underway,
observe proper seamanship and safety at all times.
When it is time to come down off plane back to
displacement mode, announce loud enough for all to hear
“coming down.” With one hand on the wheel and the
other on the throttle, reduce throttle slowly and smoothly
while steering straight. The boat will lose speed, the
bow will begin to rise and the stern will drop. Continue to
reduce speed until you have reached idle speed while
maintaining bow control. The stern will rise as the stern
wave passes under the boat from stern to bow. The boat
has now resumed displacement mode. Do not slow down
too quickly as there will be rapid deceleration and the stern
wake may cause flooding by coming over low transoms.
Transition From
Displacement to Planing Mode
Recognize Minimum Planing RPM
For most planing boats, the ideal cruising speed for optimum
fuel efficiency and comfort is just above the point where
the boat levels out on plane. Boat engine(s) and trim tabs are
adjusted to find that smooth and comfortable ride, if
applicable. Speed is also dependent on the environment and
weather conditions. Cruising speed will need to be adjusted
while assessing factors such as boat traffic, visibility, wind,
current, hazards, etc. For the purposes of this course, the
NSBC uses the term minimum planing RPM for the highest
speed that students will be learning and performing the skills
without adjusting motor trim or trim tabs. Engine trim and trim
tabs’ adjustments will be learned later on in the course.
The minimum planing RPM is the moment when the boat
levels out on plane and the throttle is reduced until just before
the boat starts to return to plowing and displacement mode.
The throttle is increased just enough to keep the boat on level
plane. This speed is the lower end of planing mode.
Handling a planing hull in displacement mode requires
minimal throttle to power the boat forward. When it is time
to transition from displacement to planing mode, ensure the
boat and all occupants are ready for the increase in speed.
Announce “coming up” so all can hear and “hold on.”
Situational awareness must be maintained at all times while
underway. With one hand on the wheel and one
hand on the throttle, increase power briskly and smoothly
while steering straight. If too much power is applied and
the propeller cavitates, slow down and try again. As power
increases, the bow will rise as the hull attempts to climb
over the bow wave. As the boat enters planing mode,
the speed will increase and the boat will level out. The
throttle may now be reduced to bring the boat to its desired
cruising speed. If the throttle is reduced too much, the boat
will lose speed and the bow will begin to rise, plowing
through the water. Speed will need to be increased again to
get back to planing speed.
Displacement mode
Plowing mode
5
Planing mode
Trim
Boat Trim
pitch when it is all the way down. While the boat is being
operated in slow speed, displacement mode, the trim
should be all the way down or trimmed in. You may want
to consider raising the engine or trimming out if the water
is very shallow, but be sure to lower the unit, or trim in
before increasing the throttle.
The safe and efficient operation of a boat requires that
the boat be in balance or boat trim. Trim means that as
the boat sits in the water, it is level from bow to stern and
side-to-side. The boat will not operate efficiently and may
be unsafe if the bow or stern is too low, or if the boat lists
to one side. A boat sitting in the water with its load of
fuel and installed equipment is designed to be in trim.
As people, supplies and gear are loaded, the boat may
become unlevel, or “out of trim.” Before departing, all the
gear and supplies must be evenly distributed and properly
stowed to ensure the boat regains trim.
When you are in open water and it is safe to increase speed
and go up onto plane, follow the directions of going up
onto plane as described in this manual. Keeping your
engine trimmed in will bring the boat onto plane quicker,
especially with a heavy load. Keeping trimmed in will also
give a softer ride in choppy waters because the bow is
down and the vee hull in the bow cuts the chop. Once you
are on plane at your desired speed and the water is calm, you
may raise or trim out the engine using the tilt/ trim switch.
The bow will rise and the RPM’s will increase until
the boat finds its most efficient trim angle. Trimming out too
much will cause the bow to rise excessively, and may cause
the boat to bounce or porpoise. Further trimming out will
cause the RPM’s to drop and the propeller will cavitate.
The boat will lose speed, plow and go off plane. If this happens,
trim back in until the boat rides smoothly and efficiently.
To review, when on plane, adjusting the propeller closer to the
transom or trimming in, raises the transom and pushes the bow
down. Trimming out or adjusting the propeller away from the
transom, lowers the stern and raises the bow.
Passengers and crew may need to be moved around to a
comfortable and safe place to balance the boat to ensure trim
and stability. Passengers shall not be seated in a dangerous
place such as bow or gunwale riding to achieve trim. Other
weight should be moved instead. This process needs to
be monitored during the trip and adjusted as necessary to
ensure trim is maintained. As fuel is burned and food and
beverages are consumed, the load will lighten. Passengers
will move around, so trimming the boat is an ongoing
process and must be maintained accordingly.
Engine Trim
Further trimming of the boat may also require raising and
lowering the outboard engine or outdrive on an inboard/
outboard engine. Engine trim is the angle of the motor in
relation to the hull. The ideal trim angle is the one in which
the boat rides level, with most of the hull on the surface
instead of plowing through the water. The optimal trim
setting will vary depending on many factors including
speed, hull design, weight and balance, and conditions on
the water (wind and waves).
Trim Tabs
In addition to the engine or lower unit trim/tilt function for
trimming the boat, trim tabs are another method of fine
tuning the trim and ride of a boat. They provide lift in order
to compensate for changes in speed, weight distribution and
water conditions. Trim tabs are stainless steel flaps or planes
that are mounted on the transom. The tabs are adjusted up
and down by a hydraulic power unit which is controlled from
two switches at the boat’s helm console.
Most boats have a tilt/trim switch used to raise and lower
the engine or outdrive. The tilt function is a small electric
or hydraulic motor which raises the engine up out of the
water, or lowers the engine into the water. This enables the
engine to be moved up or down for servicing or taking the
boat out of the water. Once the engine is lowered into the
water with the tilt/trim switch, it should be actuated until
the lower unit is all the way down into the lowered
position. The sound of the electric motor will change in
Level
In
In the up position, the tabs are in line with the bottom of
the hull and have little or no effect. When the tabs are
lowered, the water pressure on the tabs’ surface creates
upward pressure. This raises the stern and lowers the bow.
This results in better speed with lower RPM and increased
fuel efficiency. Trim tabs will also trim out the boat both
fore-and-aft and side-to-side. The tabs may be used to
correct a small list on either side. If the port side is higher
because of a heavier load on the starboard side, the port
side may be lowered by extending the starboard trim tab.
This is a nice feature to help trim the boat side-to-side,
but the prudent skipper should redistribute weight within
the boat to keep the boat balanced and in trim.
Out
6
flatter aft section of the hull with only a small part of the hull
in the water. In this situation, the boat is very sensitive to
steering and a small turn of the wheel will have a quick and
sharp response to a change in the boat’s direction.
As speed increases, the boat may start a rhythmical roll
from side-to-side (chine-to-chine).
Trim tabs and engine trim/tilt are great tools in helping to
keep your boat balanced, efficient and, most of all, safe.
Using one system or both together is unique to the boat
on which it is installed. Thorough training and practice is
needed to learn the operation and effects these systems
have on that particular boat. Remember, boat loading,
weight and sea conditions will have an ever-changing effect
on how boats handle, and how they need to be trimmed. It
is important to understand these tools, and use them to
your advantage.
Raised trim tabs
have little effect
The operator’s reaction is to quickly steer the boat back
to its original heading. The boat may get very difficult
to steer as it swings back and forth and rolls from sideto-side causing loss of control, and possibly spinning out
into a capsize. This veering back and forth is called chine
walking. The boat may roll or fall off to one side away
from its original balanced position. If the turn and roll is
severe enough, the boat may slide and list to the outside
of the turn and expose the chine to the water resulting in
a violent deceleration to that side of the boat. The sudden
sliding out of control or rapid deceleration from catching
a chine may result in ejecting passengers or the operator,
and possibly even tripping the boat and causing it to roll
over and capsize.
Lowered trim tabs raise the
stern and lower the bow
Porpoising
Chine walking may be caused by sloppy helm control,
choppy surface conditions, improper trim or too much play
in the steering cables. Chine walking must be corrected
or stopped before it gets out of control and causes an
accident. Methods to stop chine walking are making slow,
continuous, properly timed steering corrections. If that
doesn’t work, then slow down gradually, never rapidly;
or try trimming the boat using engine tilt/trim or trim tabs.
Have your mechanic check to see if the steering cables are
tight. Slack in cables or low hydraulic steering fluid may
cause sloppy steering resulting in poor wheel control.
Porpoising is a continual, rhythmic up and down bouncing
motion of the bow. It is not caused by wave action or
choppy seas. It is a result of trimming out your outboard
or lower unit raising the bow too high. The lower unit
should be lowered back down or trimmed in, which will
lower the bow and stop the bouncing. The trim tabs may
also be used to lower the bow to stop porpoising. It may
also be corrected by proper trimming of the passengers and
gear in the boat, ensuring good balance and stability. This
trimming of the boat by moving passengers and gear
should be completed before getting underway and should
be observed and corrected throughout the trip.
In this course, we will operate at minimum planing RPM
and chine walking should not be a problem. However,
please know, at higher speeds most boats are prone to chine
walking and can quickly cause a dangerous situation.
Chine Walking
A chine is the edge of the boat’s hull where the sides meet
the bottom of the boat. When a boat is operating at a fast
speed in planing mode, much of the forward part of the hull
may be out of the water. The boat is actually riding on the
7
Turns
Steering The Boat
Steering a boat is drastically different than
steering a car. This is quite evident when
watching a new boater trying to operate
a boat. The natural reaction is to treat the boat
like a car which steers from the front, with the
back following through the turn. The boater
may soon realize that the stern is swinging
out of control and impacting piers, and other
boats. A good example of this is when the
rear of a car slides while turning on ice. With
a little training, the operator learns that a boat
actually steers from the stern.
This topic is briefly covered in the Essentials
of Close-Quarters Boat Control Student
Training Manual.
back to center to straighten out for steering straight (as shown
in graphic on the left). While steering straight, keep your
focus on your distant object while keeping a proper lookout
all around and with occasional glances to the gauges.
Distant
Object
Continue practicing by aiming for different distant objects.
While practicing, occasionally take the boat intentionally
off course by turning the wheel slightly toward port (left) or
starboard (right), and then straighten out again on your
object. With practice, any tendency to over-steer will
diminish.
Distant Object
Dead Ahead
Distant Object
60° off the bow
Gradual Turns Steps are: (graphic on previous page)
• Steering straight on plane at a distant object.
Select another distant object about 30 degrees off the bow
or using dead ahead as 12:00 according to a clock.
A 30 degree change is 11:00 to port or 1:00 to starboard
according to the hands of a clock;
• Perform a proper lookout and ensure all is clear, ready
passengers, announce “turning” and then steer gradually
to aim at the new target. Steer straight at the new target;
• Perform proper lookout and ensure all is clear. Announce
“turning” and steer gradually back to previous target
making a 30 degree turn in the opposite direction;
• As proficiency is developed, repeat sequence to 60
degree turns, which is a course change to port of 10:00
according to a clock or to starboard at 2:00. Then to 90
degrees, 120 degrees, 150 degrees and 180 degrees.
Sharp Turns Steps are:
• Steering straight on plane at a distant object. Select another
distant object about 30 degrees off the bow. Using dead
ahead as 12:00 according to the hands of a clock, a 30
degree change is 11:00 to port or 1:00 to starboard;
• Perform a proper lookout and ensure all is clear, ready
passengers, announce “turning,” reduce the throttle
(if needed) and then steer quickly to aim at the new target.
Return to minimum planing RPM and steer straight at the
new target;
Distant Object
Dead Ahead
Gradual turns are slow and wide and require minimal throttle
adjustments. Steering should be smooth with little over or
under steering. The boat should not slide or cavitate during
course alterations. Be sure to maintain a proper lookout
throughout this maneuver. Practice doing turns both to the
starboard and port all the way to 180 degree turns.
A boat is steered by using a rudder.
The propeller generates a high-pressure
discharge current which flows across the
rudder. When the rudder is centered or
amidships, the boat will steer straight.
As the wheel is turned, the rudder also
turns deflecting the discharge current.
This deflection causes the stern of the boat
to swing in the desired direction, turning
the boat either right or left. The more the
wheel is turned, the more the rudder is
turned increasing rudder surface area for the
discharge current to push on, increasing the
tightness of the turn. As throttle is increased,
the discharge current or thrust is also increased
resulting in more water running across the
rudder, thereby increasing the speed of the turn.
This method has been used for centuries and
works for both power and sail boats.
Sharp Turns on Plane
Gradual
Turns on
Plane
While operating
on plane, there is
minimal lag time
to steering response.
A boater will need to be
able to make gradual
turns to avoid other boats,
objects or hazards on a lake.
Small movements in steering
result in immediate action.
The faster the boat moves
through the water, the greater
the forces are on the propulsion
unit. Every boat is different,
so it is important to become
familiar with the boat’s handling
characteristics.
Steering Straight on Plane
While underway, observe proper seamanship
and safety at all times. Operating in open
water on plane intensifies the boat’s response
to steering adjustments. The operator must
be alert to any changes in heading that might
require a quick response. The response must
be prompt and minimal.
With the left hand on wheel, steer straight.
The right hand will be free to assist with
steering and increase or decrease throttle as
needed to maintain minimum planing RPM.
Keep the left hand in one place on the wheel
to determine how far to turn the wheel
8
To perform a
gradual turn,
look all around you,
checking that course
is clear of boats
and hazards. Make
sure all passengers
are ready. Announce
“turning,” change
course and aim for
distant object.
Steer straight
toward the object.
It’s important to learn your boat’s handling and performance
characteristics. Cavitation from too sharp and quick a turn can
result in loss of propulsion and control. You must maintain a
firm grip on the steering wheel, position your feet shoulder
width apart, brace yourself and adjust your balance to the
momentum the boat will create.Announce to your passengers
to maintain a firm grip, brace and balance before attempting
these maneuvers.
Sharp turns may be used for many reasons such as avoiding an
obstruction in the water, or just to retrieve an object blown out of
the boat, such as a hat.A sharp turn would also be used to quickly
return to a passenger who fell overboard. This will be discussed
further in the man overboard (MOB) recovery section of this
manual. They may also be needed to make course adjustments
on a busy boat traffic day. Practice the turns by starting with your
wide gradual turns and make them tighter and tighter.
To perform
a sharp turn,
ensure course
is clear of boats
and hazards and
all passengers are
ready. Announce
“turning,” reduce
throttle if needed,
change course and
aim for distant object.
As proficiency is
increased, gradually
increase the sharpness
of the turns.
When the turns become so sharp that the hull begins to slide or the
propeller starts to cavitate, then the limit of sharp turns has been
reached and a decrease in the throttle must be applied to make the
turns sharper and more efficient. The turns may cause the boat to
naturally decrease speed. The really sharp turns require a decrease
in the throttle by the operator to safely perform the task and once
the turn is complete, to increase the throttle back to minimum
planing RPM. Both hands on the wheel may be needed to
complete this skill because of the plowing effect and the force of
water against boat and propeller. The goal is to safely carve the
turn without the boat sliding or cavitating.
9
Distant Object
60° off the bow
Turns
Stops
Stopping Under Control
•
•
Perform proper lookout and ensure all is clear, ready
passengers, announce “turning,” reduce the throttle
(if needed) and steer quickly back to previous target
making a 30 degree turn in the opposite direction;
return to minimum planing RPM;
As proficiency is developed, repeat sequence to 60
degree turns — that is a course change to port at 10:00
or to starboard at 2:00. Then to 90 degrees, 120
degrees, 150 degrees and 180 degrees. Be prepared to
decrease the throttle at 90 degrees, 120 degrees, 150
degrees and 180 degrees to make these sharper turns
and then return to minimum planing RPM when new
heading has been attained.
This skill will be practiced slowly and only as the student gains
proficiency will the maneuver be performed at minimum
planing RPM and closer to the floating object. Do not exceed
minimum planing RPM!
Avoidance Turn Steps are:
• Steering straight at minimum planing RPM, an object
is observed dead ahead (floating object is placed by the
instructor — such as a small buoy or Type IV PFD);
• Determine if object is too close for a stopping maneuver;
• Perform a proper lookout and ensure all is
clear, announce to passengers to “hold on”;
• Announce “turning” and swerve the bow to an
approximate 45 degree turn away from the object when the
boat is within 6 boat lengths from the object;
• When the boat has turned approximately 45 degrees away
from the object, immediately turn the wheel back towards
the object. This will swing the stern away from the object.
Do not change the speed at any time during this maneuver;
• Practice this turn from both port and starboard directions;
• As proficiency is gained, practice at closer distances.
The pinwheel maneuver can be practiced by turning
in large circles to the starboard or port at determined
minimum planing RPMs, and slowly making the circles
tighter and tighter. Decrease the throttle as needed.
Figure 8s are another way to practice turns as well as
crossing waves and wakes. (Refer to crossing wakes and
waves section in this manual.)
Avoidance Turns
•
We have learned that boats do not have brakes, just another
reason we don’t drive them like a car. All boats when
underway gather momentum and that momentum may be
hard to slow or stop depending on the hull design, draft,
speed and environmental conditions. A displacement hull
pushes water which continuously wants to slow the boat;
however a large, heavy ship has a lot of momentum and
may take a lot of power in reverse to stop. A large ship at
cruising speed may take up to seven miles to come to a
complete stop; you don’t want to get in its way!
•
A small boat may be slowed or stopped by decreasing
throttle, shifting into neutral or even shifting into reverse and
adding throttle if necessary. A simple decrease in throttle
may slow the boat’s headway enough for most situations. In
an urgency stop, we will have to stop all headway as quickly
as we can, shifting into reverse and using a good amount of
throttle to affect our stop. If you need to slow or stop while
in planing mode, just the action of coming off plane and
transitioning to displacement mode will quickly slow the
boat as it settles down into the water. Try to get into the
mindset of using only as much power as needed to get the
job done.
Shift into reverse idle speed to complete stop, and steer
to keep the bow straight;
Use boater’s eye to determine the instant the boat is
stopped and shift into neutral.
To perform a coasting stop, announce
“coming down.”
Decrease the throttle to idle speed.
Coasting Stop from Plane
An avoidance turn is used when the boat operator sees an
object or other hazard in the water dead ahead and must take
action to miss this object. This action allows the boat to miss
the object thus preventing a collision from occurring.
This maneuver is a series of turns that prevents the boat from
hitting the object by moving the hull away from the object.
We must remember that when we turn the boat, the pivot point
is forward and the stern swings away from the direction of the
turn. The action of this first turn away from the object will steer
the bow away, but will swing the stern towards the object.
To perform an avoidance turn,
announce “hold on” then
“turning.”
Swerve the bow about 45°
away from the object.
Now, there is a good chance the object will be impacted by the
hull or worse yet, will be hit by the lower unit and prop.
This action is typical of a novice boater thinking that he will just
turn away from the object. This first turn must immediately be
followed up by an aggressive turn in the opposite direction
which will shift the stern’s direction away from the object.
The two turns should be about 45 degrees with the second turn
following the first turn very quickly. The actual amount of
wheel that should be turned is dependent on the steering system
on that particular boat — how many turns the steering has lock
to lock. This maneuver, if performed correctly, will prevent any
contact with an object. When looking behind you, the wake
will look like you just did an “S” turn.
Immediately turn the wheel back
towards the object. This will
swing the stern away.
This stop is a slow, comfortable easy stop when there is
no urgency or reason to stop quickly. The most common
situation for this stop is slowing down near a bend or
blind spot in a river or channel to wait on boating traffic or
approaching a no wake zone. In this course, the coasting
stop will be used when changing boat operators. While on
plane and steering straight, reduce the throttle to idle speed
gradually and then shift into neutral. Allow the boat to coast,
paying attention to how the boat reacts. The larger the boat
— the more distance is needed to stop. If heading into the
wind or current, less distance is needed to stop.
Shift into neutral. Continue coasting
several seconds keeping bow straight
until stern wave passes.
Shift to reverse idle to complete stop.
Steering may be reduced or lost when decreasing the throttle
too quickly. While coasting in neutral, steer straight with
rudder effect only. Finish the maneuver with a standard stop.
Use boater’s eye to assure boat has
stopped. Shift into neutral.
Coasting Stop Steps are: (graphic on right)
• Steering straight in planing mode at minimum planing
RPM, perform a proper lookout and ensure all is clear;
• Make sure passengers are ready, announce “coming
down,” decrease the throttle to idle speed and then shift
into neutral;
• Continue coasting in neutral and keeping bow straight by
steering with rudder effect only;
10
11
Stops
Urgency Stop from Plane
This stop is for stopping the boat more quickly than the
coasting stop while still keeping the bow straight. The most
common situation for this stop may be when a hazard is in
the water dead ahead and boat traffic is on the side which
prevents steering around the hazard. While steering straight,
quickly decrease the throttle to idle and then neutral.
Center the wheel and shift into reverse and increase the
throttle until stopped. Maintain bow control. (Be aware
of stern wave.) Steering may be reduced or lost when
decreasing the throttle too quickly.
Urgency Stop Steps are: (graphic on bottom left)
• Steering straight in planing mode at minimum planing
RPM, perform a proper lookout and ensure all is clear;
• Make sure passengers are ready, announce “coming
down,” quickly decrease the throttle to idle;
• Watch the stern wave, add throttle as needed to avoid
the stern wave swamping the boat. When the stern
wave has safely passed, shift into neutral;
• Steering straight with rudder effect only, count to five;
• Shift into reverse and increase the throttle. Steer to
keep the bow straight;
• Use boater’s eye to determine the instant the boat is
stopped and shift into neutral.
It is important to avoid the stern wave from coming over the
transom of the boat when you are quickly decreasing throttle
to forward idle. Look behind the boat for the stern wave. If
your transom is lower than the wave, increase throttle to
allow the wave to dissipate before decreasing throttle
back to forward idle. When the stern wave has safely passed
underneath the boat, shift into neutral and finish the stop.
Caution must be observed to ensure the stern wave passes
underneath the boat. If the transom is low, this wave could
swamp the boat and may result in a stability issue, or at least
wet feet. The stern wave may also cause the boat to surge
forward and the boat may veer off course. Coast in neutral,
steering straight with rudder effect only and count to five.
Emergency Stop from Plane
An emergency stop is performed only when unexpected
circumstances demand immediate action. This skill will be
practiced slowly at first.As the student gains proficiency,
the maneuver will be performed at minimum planing RPM
and closer to the floating object. Do not exceed minimum
planing RPM! At minimum planing RPM while steering
straight, an object is observed in the water. Turn the bow
sharply 90 degrees away from the object and immediately
decrease the throttle to forward idle. Observe and avoid the
stern wave and then shift into neutral. Care should be taken
while performing this maneuver — not only the risk of losing
steering control exists, but also the possibility of having the
boat’s stern wave come over the transom, swamping the boat.
To perform an urgency stop, announce
“coming down.”
Quickly decrease the throttle to idle speed.
Watch the stern wave and
avoid before shifting into neutral.
•
Emergency Stop Steps are: (graphic on bottom right,
previous page)
• Steering straight at minimum planing RPM, an object is
observed dead ahead;
• Perform a proper lookout and ensure all is clear; announce
to passengers to “hold on”;
• Announce “turning and coming down” then turn the
bow sharply 90 degrees away from the object;
• Immediately decrease the throttle rapidly to forward idle.
Note: be sure to pay attention to decreasing the throttle
to avoid the potential of accidentally putting it into
neutral or reverse gear!
•
•
•
Observe and avoid the stern wave by increasing throttle
to allow wave to dissipate and safely pass underneath the
boat. Decrease throttle back to forward idle and then shift
into neutral;
Assess distance of the boat to the object;
Practice this turn from both port and starboard;
As proficiency is gained, practice at closer distances.
Boat Handling in Waves and Wakes
Steps to cross a large wake are: (graphic below)
• Steering straight at minimum planing RPM,
a large wake is observed ahead;
• Perform a proper lookout and ensure all is clear,
ready passengers and announce “wake”;
• Steer to cross at a 45 degree angle and decrease throttle;
• When clear of wake(s), perform lookout and return to
course and minimum planing RPMs.
Crossing Wakes and Waves
A boat operator needs to be aware of waves created by boats
(wakes) and waves created by the wind. Gentle breezes
create ripples in the water. As winds get stronger, they will
create small, closely spaced waves on small bodies of water
commonly referred to as chop. As wind continues to get
stronger, waves will begin to crest or curl over. Learning how
to approach waves takes practice and experience.
Operating in open water, a boat operator will encounter
waves and wakes from other boats that vary in size.
Crossing wakes head-on or on the beam is not the best
practice for the boat or for passengers. Large yachts, barges
and commercial vessels typically produce a very large wake.
A boat operator must avoid crossing a large wake at a high
rate of speed so as not to launch the boat into the air and put
all passengers and the boat in serious danger.
Steps to cross small or moderate wakes are:
• Steering straight at minimum planing RPM,
a moderate wake is observed ahead;
• Perform a proper lookout and ensure all is clear,
ready passengers and announce “wake”;
• Steer to cross at a slight angle (less than 45 degrees) and
adjust throttle if needed;
• When clear of wake(s), perform lookout and return to
course and minimum planing RPMs.
To cross a large wake, ensure course is clear of boats and
hazards. Ready passengers, announce “wake.”
Reduce throttle. Adjust course to cross at a 45 degree
angle. When clear, return to course and speed.
To perform an emergency stop, announce
“hold on,” “turning” and “coming down.”
Turn the bow 90° away from the object.
Shift into neutral. Count to five.
1
2
3
4
Immediately decrease
throttle to
forward idle.
5
Shift to reverse and increase throttle.
Steer to keep bow straight.
Watch the stern
wave and avoid
before shifting
into neutral.
Use boater’s eye to assure boat has stopped.
Shift into neutral.
12
13
Boat Handling in Wind
hold position (prevent leeway) and maintain an effective ferry
angle. The angle of the boat is very important. Too little angle
causes the technique to be ineffective. Too much angle causes
loss of steering control and becomes a leeway drift.
Weathervane Effect
Wind pushes a drifting boat’s bow faster than the stern.
The bow of a drifting boat will swing downwind while
the stern will lie closer to the wind. This is called the
weathervane effect.
Steps to ferry to starboard — bow-to-wind are:
(graphic bottom left)
• Determine wind direction and position the boat bow-towind (near a fixed object and the goal is to ferry to another
fixed object);
• Ferry to starboard: set the wheel to the right (angle the boat
between 30-45 degrees), shift into forward;
• Stay in forward long enough to acquire the desired ferry
angle with the wind slightly on the port side and steer to
maintain the desired ferry angle;
• Shift between forward and neutral, staying in gear just long
enough to offset leeway;
• Nearing fixed object to end sideways movement: steer bow
back into the wind using some wheel to the left, shift into
forward until bow-to-wind.
As a boat drifts downwind, the boat’s drag through the
water slows it down. At the stern, the drag of the engine
(outdrive and prop) may cause the stern to drift more
slowly than the bow. Also, the stern is heavier than the bow
and sits lower in the water. The bow has less to drag
through the water and, depending on hull design, may also
have greater windage. The wind, therefore, blows the bow
more quickly than the stern.
When putting the stern to-the-wind, the weathervane effect
assists. When putting the bow to-the-wind, you must work
against the weathervane effect.
It is important to note that in open water with waves, putting
the stern to the wind may cause waves to wash over the stern,
swamping the boat. The amount of wind and waves a boat
can safely take on the stern will vary by boat design.
Steps to ferry to port — bow-to-wind are:
(graphic below)
• Determine wind direction and position the boat bow-towind (near a fixed object and the goal is to ferry to another
fixed object);
• Ferry to port: set the wheel to the left (angle the boat
between 30-45 degrees), shift into forward;
• Stay in forward long enough to acquire the desired ferry
angle with the wind slightly on the starboard side and
steer to maintain the desired ferry angle;
• Shift between forward and neutral, staying in gear just
long enough to offset leeway;
• Nearing fixed object to end sideways movement: steer
bow back into the wind using some wheel to the right,
shift into forward until bow-to-wind.
Ferrying and Ferry Angle in Wind
Ferrying is a technique that uses the wind (or current) as an
advantage to help move a boat sideways. Understanding the
forces involved in ferrying is important to avoid fighting
against these forces.
Positioning a boat at an angle to the wind causes the wind
to hit the side of the boat. The resulting wind pressure
(windage) on the side of the boat pushes the boat sideways.
Wind on the port side pushes the boat to starboard, and wind
on the starboard pushes the boat to port. Engines are used to
WIND
WIND
WIND
Ferry to starboard — bow-to-wind:
Maintain the desired ferry angle. Shift between forward and
neutral, staying in gear long enough to maintain steering
and offset leeway.
WIND
Steps to ferry to port — stern-to-wind are:
(graphic below)
• Determine wind direction and use weathervane effect
to position the boat stern-to-wind; (This maneuver
should be started near a fixed object; the goal is to ferry
to another fixed object);
• Ferry to port: set the wheel to the left (angle the boat
between 30–45 degrees), shift into reverse;
• Stay in reverse long enough to acquire the desired ferry
angle with the wind slightly on the starboard side and
steer to maintain the desired ferry angle;
• Shift between reverse and neutral, staying in gear just
long enough to offset leeway;
• Nearing fixed object to end sideways movement:
pull stern back into the wind using some wheel to the
right, shift into reverse until stern-to-wind.
WIND
Steps to ferry to starboard — stern-to-wind are:
(graphic below)
• Determine wind direction and use weathervane effect
to position the boat stern-to-wind (maneuver should be
started near a fixed object; the goal is to ferry to another
fixed object);
• Ferry to starboard: set the wheel to the right (angle the
boat between 30–45 degrees), shift into reverse;
• Stay in reverse long enough to acquire the desired ferry
angle with the wind slightly on the port side and steer to
maintain the desired ferry angle;
• Shift between reverse and neutral, staying in gear just
long enough to offset leeway;
• Nearing fixed object to end sideways movement:
pull stern back into the wind using some wheel to the
left, shift into reverse until stern-to-wind.
WIND
WIND
Ferry to port — stern-to-wind:
Maintain the desired ferry angle. Shift between reverse and
neutral, staying in gear long enough to offset leeway.
Ferry to starboard — stern-to-wind:
Maintain the desired ferry angle. Shift between reverse and
neutral, staying in gear long enough to offset leeway.
The ferrying stern-to-wind skill should not be
performed if waves are large enough to splash
aboard over the stern. This course presumes a
larger boat with adequate freeboard astern, and
operating in calm to light breeze conditions.
Any amount of water coming aboard over the
transom must be avoided. If this is occurring,
then the conditions of wind and waves are too
great! Do not ferry stern-to-wind.
Holding Station in Wind
Holding station in the wind means staying in the same
position over the bottom, despite what the wind is doing to
the boat. This skill is basically the same as ferrying except
the intent is to avoid moving sideways while also avoiding
downwind movement. The challenge is to use ferrying
skills to keep the ferry angle so minimal that the boat does
not inadvertently ferry off station.
Steps to holding station — bow-to-wind are:
(graphic on next page)
• Determine wind direction and position the boat
bow-to-wind;
• Hold station for several minutes maintaining boat
alignment with wind direction, avoid ferrying;
• Shift between forward and neutral, staying in gear just
long enough to allow steering to maintain course and
offset leeway;
• Maintain a proper lookout.
Ferry to port — bow-to-wind:
Maintain the desired ferry angle. Shift between forward and
neutral, staying in gear long enough to maintain steering
and offset leeway.
14
WIND
15
Boat Handling in Wind
Boat Handling in Current
Holding Station in Current
Steps to holding station, stern-to-wind:
(graphic on right)
• Determine wind direction and use weathervane effect to
position the boat stern-to-wind;
• Hold station for several minutes maintaining boat
alignment with wind direction, avoid ferrying;
• Shift between reverse and neutral, staying in gear just
long enough to allow steering to maintain course and
offset leeway;
• Maintain a proper lookout.
The holding station, stern-to-wind skill should not be
performed if waves are large enough to splash
aboard over the stern. This course presumes a larger
boat with adequate freeboard astern, and operating in
calm to light breeze conditions. Any amount of water
coming aboard over the transom must be avoided.
If this is occurring, then the conditions of wind and
waves are too great!
WIND
Holding station bow-to-wind:
shift between forward and
neutral, staying in gear long
enough to allow steering and
offset leeway.
WIND
Holding station stern-towind: shift between reverse
and neutral, staying in
gear long enough to allow
steering and offset leeway.
Steps to ferry to port — bow-to-current are:
(graphic below)
• Determine current direction and position the boat bowto-current (maneuver should be started near a fixed
object; the goal is to ferry to another fixed object);
• Ferry to port: set the wheel to the left (angle the boat up
to 30 degrees in strong current and up to 45 degrees in
light current), shift into forward;
• Stay in forward long enough to acquire the desired
ferry angle with the current slightly on the starboard
side and steer to maintain the desired ferry angle;
• Shift between forward and neutral, staying in gear just
long enough to offset current;
• Nearing fixed object to end sideways movement:
steer bow back into the current using some wheel to the
right, shift into forward until bow-to-current.
Holding station in the current means staying in the same
position over the bottom, despite what the current is doing
to the boat. This skill is basically the same as ferrying
except the intent is to avoid moving sideways while also
avoiding down-current movement. The challenge is to use
ferrying skills to keep the ferry angle so minimal that the
boat does not inadvertently ferry off station.
Steps to holding station — bow-to-current are:
(graphic below)
• Determine current direction and position the boat
bow-to-current;
• Hold station for several minutes maintaining boat
alignment with current direction, avoid ferrying;
• Shift between forward and neutral, staying in gear
just long enough to offset current;
• Maintain a proper lookout.
Boat Handling in Current
Current is the flow of water. In a straight section of river,
the current is generally strongest where the water is deepest,
and weakens toward the shore, as the bottom rises to impede
it. Near shore, weak countercurrents may flow. Current
strengthens where shorelines bottleneck (Venturi effect).
•
•
Current Terms
ferry angle with the current slightly on the port side and
steer to maintain the desired ferry angle;
Shift between forward and neutral, staying in gear just
long enough to offset current;
Nearing fixed object to end sideways movement:
steer bow back into the current using some wheel to the
left, shift into forward until bow-to-current.
Warning: Holding station with your stern to five
knots of current is just like backing up at five knots
with no current. Most boat’s sterns are not designed
to withstand the current piling up on their transom.
This piling up of water will cause flooding with
possible swamping or capsizing. A boat’s bow is
designed to ride up and slice through waves and
currents. This makes bow-to-current ferrying and
holding station very easy to perform with better
control.
Set — the direction of a current’s flow
Drift — the speed of a current’s flow
(one knot = one nautical mile per hour)
Ferrying in Current
Steps to ferry to starboard — bow-to-current are:
(graphic on right)
• Determine current direction and position the boat bowto-current (maneuver should be started near a fixed
object; the goal is to ferry to another fixed object);
• Ferry to starboard: set the wheel to the right (angle the
boat up to 30 degrees in strong current and up to 45
degrees in light current), shift into forward;
• Stay in forward long enough to acquire the desired
16
17
Emergencies and Rescues
Retrieving a Person From Overboard
Being able to rescue yourself and others is a fundamental
boating skill in any on-water program. The same should
apply to on-water powerboating courses. Having the
proper rescue equipment on board and practicing how to
use it is very important before any emergency occurs.
An active person is able to assist with getting back on board
the boat. Various boarding systems can be used such as a
ladder, makeshift ladder or a line cleated at the bow and stern
that reaches the water level where a person can walk up the
line towards the bow of the boat. Assist the person as they
climb on board the boat. Retrieve the Type IV PFD.
In the case of a person falling overboard, the priority is to
get the boat back to the person as quickly as possible.
Coordination among everyone on the boat is important to a
successful rescue. Someone shouts “man-overboard port,
starboard or astern” while simultaneously throwing a
Type IV PFD to the person. Keeping a visual on the person
and pointing to the person in the water is a big aid to the
boat operator. While all of these things are occurring, the
boat operator calls out “hold on, turning,” decreases the
throttle and turns sharply toward the person in the water.
A simple reduced speed turn to circle back to the person is
the quickest and most reliable.
While approaching the person in the water, stay about 10
feet away at idle speed. With calm to light wind
conditions, the boat can be pointed either bow-to-wind or
stern-to-wind and holding station abeam to the person.
Throw a line or reach with a boat pole to the active person.
When the active person makes good contact with the line or
pole, immediately shut off the engine(s) and pull the person
to the boat.
HOLD ON!
TURNING!
ABEAM.
STARBOARD.
40’.
MAN
OVERBOARD!
STARBOARD!
A passive or unconscious person is beyond the scope of this
training course because the operator or a crew member may
need to enter the water to assist the person. Additional
training and equipment is needed to perform these types
of rescues. Summon help by issuing a MAYDAY call
on channel 16 VHF radio or dial 911 on a cell phone
depending on the location and body of water.
communications to call for help, like a marine VHF radio;
not just a cell phone! Check that the distress signals, flares,
are not expired and know how to use them. Is there an EPIRB
(Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon) onboard?
Have a means to let someone know there is trouble and help is
needed. Be able to take the search out of search and rescue!
There are many times when boaters just get caught in a
changing weather pattern and it goes from bad to worse.
What advice is there for them to survive the situation and
get to port safely? Many books have been written about
this and it would be impossible to even begin to cover that
in this brief manual. To start, make sure everyone’s life
jacket is securely fitted!
Retrieving a person overboard steps are:
(graphic on previous page)
• Shout “man-overboard port, starboard or astern”
and throw a Type IV PFD to the person then point to
the person in the water (these duties can be done by
different crew members);
• Simultaneously, the boat operator will perform
proper lookout and if all is clear, ready passengers by
announcing “turning” and decrease the throttle while
turning sharply toward the overboard person;
• Approach the person 10 feet away at idle speed and
hold station abeam to the person;
• Throw a line or reach with a pole to the person.
When the person overboard has a firm grip on the line
or pole, shut off engine(s);
• Pull person to the boat while setting up boarding system;
• Assist the person onboard the boat.
Trim the boat by distributing weight to ensure stability.
Refer to the section in this manual covering boat trim.
Close and double check that all hatches, ports and vents
are water tight. Keep the water on the outside. Check the
bilges and pump them dry. Secure all equipment and gear
in a safe place where it will not slide or fly around. Ensure
all deck gear such as small boats, kayaks or anything else
topside is tied down with no chance for movement.
Even the slightest bit of slack in a line will cause the
object to shift with the rolling and pitching of the boat.
This uncontrolled movement will shock load the line or
strap until it breaks and the object gets loose. This may
cause injury, extensive damage and may affect stability.
The boat should always be ready for sea.
Heavy Weather
As a rule, a prudent mariner should check the weather for the
area prior to departure and periodically during the voyage.
Trips should be postponed or canceled if the predicted
weather and sea conditions are dangerous. The size, design
and seaworthiness of the vessel should be determined
if planning to venture out in spite of the weather. More
important is the training and experience of the crew and safety
of any passengers or guests. Brief the crew on the situation to
prepare them for what is expected. Assign duties, keep them
occupied and get as much rest as possible when not on watch.
Restrict movement around the boat, especially outside. Rig
safety lines and harnesses for use on deck.
GOT HIM.
MOTOR OFF!
10’.
5’.
18
Every boat should have a good strong anchor that is
sufficient for the size of the boat. It should be secured
to the deck or in a forward locker readily available for
deployment. The anchor should have a length of chain
attached (equal to or greater than the length of the boat), and
strong anchor line that is at least 7 to 10 times the depth of
the water, when practical. Practice anchoring, it’s an art!
Don’t just drop and pray it won’t drag. A sea anchor is a
great device to help keep the boat in control if power is lost,
as well as to position the boat’s bow to-the-wind and seas.
During bad weather, the simple and common sense rule in
boating is just don’t go! History has shown that boaters
sometimes don’t follow this basic concept, and go charging
off to sea in conditions that a responsible boat operator has
no business being in. So, be smart, don’t depart!
Know the boat and its equipment, especially its capabilities and
limitations. Know where all equipment is and how to use it.
Have the proper survival and lifesaving gear appropriate for the
area and body of water. File a float plan. Have reliable
19
Glossary of Boating Terms and Phrases
Abeam — Beside the boat, out to one side.
Engine Stop Lanyard — A safety switch or lanyard with
one end attached to the operator while underway and the
other end connected to a switch mounted by the helm that
activates the starting system. If the operator is ejected or
the switch becomes disconnected, the engine will shut off.
NSBC training operations require a safety switch or
lanyard to be used while underway.
Avoidance (“S”) Turn — A series of turns used to
avoid an object in the water directly ahead of you while
underway at minimum planing speed. When completed
correctly, the wake will resemble an “S.”
Boat Trim — The proper balance and stability of the boat
when fully loaded with people and gear. Trim should be
achieved by stowing all gear and placing passengers so the
boat sits naturally without listing to either side. The bow
and stern should sit naturally, not too high or low.
Minimum Planing RPM — The lower end of planing
mode. It is the point just on plane when the boat levels off
and before speed increases. Throttle should be adjusted to
maintain this desired speed. If throttle is reduced too much,
the boat will lose speed and the bow will rise, returning to
plowing mode.
Stand-On Vessel — The stand-on vessel shall maintain
course and speed in order for the give-way vessel to
properly predict its track and take the appropriate action to
avoid collision.
Stern Wave — A vertical disturbance of water from
the boat’s wake that is moving toward the stern. When
stopping the boat, care must be taken to ensure this wave
does not come over the transom.
MOB — Acronym for man overboard.
Ferry or Ferrying — A boating maneuver that allows
the boat to travel sideways without gaining headway or
losing sternway. Angle the bow or stern of the boat into the
wind or current towards the direction desired. By applying
power and employing the correct angle to current or wind
the boat will travel sideways.
Cavitation — The sudden formation of tiny air or
exhaust gas bubbles in the water caused by the rotation
of the propeller resulting in a decrease in efficiency and
an increase in engine RPM. This may cause loss of, or a
significant reduction in propulsion and potential damage to
the prop. This is also known as ventilation.
Figure 8s — A maneuver to gain skill in making turns,
adjusting throttle and crossing waves and wakes. Begin the
figure 8 at minimum planing RPM and steer the boat into a
big shape of an “8.” Each figure 8 will be smaller than the
last “8.” As the “8s” get smaller, you will need to decrease
throttle and adjust throttle to cross the wakes that you have
created and to prevent cavitation. Stop the maneuver when
the water gets too choppy, the engine cavitates or the turns
are so tight the gunnels are at the waterline.
Chine — The intersection of the hull where the sides meet
the bottom.
Chop or Choppy — Short, steep waves, making for a
rough, uncomfortable ride.
Give-Way Vessel — The vessel that must take action in a
crossing or overtaking situation. The give-way vessel must
alter course and or speed to avoid a collision.
COLREGS or Rules of the Road — A general term
used for the regulations governing vessels used to prevent
collisions. The rules are officially called The International
Regulations for the Prevention of Collisions at Sea
(COLREGS) and the U.S. Inland Navigation Rules. They
include application, steering and sailing rules, lighting, and
sound signals.
Heading — The direction the boat is travelling, may be
given in compass degrees.
Pinwheel — A maneuver to discover the turning
capabilities of your boat. Begin the pinwheel at minimum
planing RPM and make large gradual circles either
clockwise or counterclockwise. Each circle will be smaller
than the last circle. As the circles get smaller and smaller,
you will need to decrease RPMs to prevent sliding and
cavitation. Stop the maneuver when the water gets too
choppy, the engine cavitates or the turns are so tight the
gunnels are at the waterline.
Tilt/Trim Switch — A switch, at the helm, usually found
on the engine shift handle which raises and lowers the
outboard engine or lower unit on an inboard/outboard.
This is used to raise the engine out of the water for
servicing or to put the boat on a trailer. It may also be used
to trim the bow up or down for better trim and efficiency.
Transom — The horizontal panel at the back of the boat.
Pivot Point — As a boat turns, it pivots on a specific
point which is located along the centerline of the boat
somewhere between the bow and stern. The pivot point
location will vary in boats depending on hull design, trim,
and water conditions and boat speed. When a boat is in
forward gear making headway, the typical pivot point is
about one third back from the bow.
Trim Tabs — Metal flaps or planes that are mounted on
the transom, and are adjusted up and down by a switch at
the helm console. Trim tabs help trim the boat side-to-side
or by bringing the bow down.
Venturi Effect —The phenomenon that occurs when a
fluid is forced through a narrow section, resulting in a
pressure decrease and a velocity increase.
Planing Mode or On Plane — When a boat reaches
enough speed to overcome the bow wave and ride up on
the water with much of the forward hull out of the water.
Wake — The track of disturbed water created by a moving
boat.
Weathervane effect — The tendency of the bow of a
drifting boat to turn and point downwind.
Helm — The boat’s wheel or other steering gear. A boat’s
steering station.
Displacement Mode — A vessel at stop or moving at slow
speed through the water with nearly all of the bottom of the
hull in the water.
Holding Station — A boating maneuver to keep the boat
stationary allowing the air and water to flow by it. By
applying enough power to counter the wind or current, the
boat will remain in one place staying stationary.
Directed Thrust — A means of steering a boat by turning
to port or starboard and the discharge current created by
the propeller “thrusts” the boat in that direction. The high
pressure discharge current produced by the propeller is
directed by turning the outboard engine or lower unit of an
inboard/outboard with the steering wheel. This results in
pushing the stern, quickly and effectively bringing the boat
into a turn.
Inboard/Outboard — A combination design where the
boat has the engine installed in the hull like an inboard
powered boat, and the drive unit outside the transom like
an outboard engine.
Leeway — The downwind drift of a boat through the
water. Sideways drift of a boat caused by the wind.
Emergency Stop — Designed to stop the boat quickly to
avoid hitting an object in the water directly ahead of the
boat while underway at planing speed. When sighting the
object immediately ahead, turn sharply 90 degrees right or
left, then quickly decrease the throttle to idle speed, then
neutral.
Maximum Displacement RPM — The engine RPM at
the upper end of displacement mode. It is the point just
before the bow starts to rise and the boat begins plowing.
20
21
© 2013 National Safe Boating Council