Hydroxide Relaxers
Types of Hydroxide Relaxers
and the Chemical Process
Hydroxide Relaxers
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Hair Relaxer is a product
used to permanently
straighten naturally curly hair.
Active ingredient in all
hydroxide relaxers is
hydroxide ions.
Hydroxide Relaxers are
highly alkaline, ranging from
12-14 on the Ph scale.
Hydroxide Relaxers are
most commonly used in the
salon.
Types of Hydroxide Relaxers
Active
Ph
Sodium
12.5Hydroxide 13.5
Lithium &
Potassium
Hydroxide
Guanidine
Hydroxide
Market
No-Mix
Lye
12.5 –
13.5
No-Mix
Lye
13 13.5
No Lye
Positive
Effective
for curly
hair
Negative
Scalp
irritations
Hair damage
Effective Scalp
for curly irritations
hair
Hair damage
Less
Could dry
irritation hair
Phases in Hair Relaxing
Chemical Change- Begins as
soon as relaxer is applied
to hair. A complete change
occurs in the composition
of the hair.
Physical Change- Is
smoothing the hair, and
rinsing the hair. It is a
change in the state of
matter.
Chemical Hair Straightening Process
Overview
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1. Apply Relaxer: Both H and
S bonds hold polypeptide
chains in curly position.
2. Process: All H bonds are
broken, most S bonds are
broken. Hair begins to relax.
3. Neutralize: Polypeptide
chains are in straight position.
New hair structure is harden.
4. Rinse and Condition: New
cross links form, resulting in
straight hair.
Chemical Changes in Relaxers
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In the relaxer process,
chemical changes occur,
breaking and reforming the
structure of hair bonds.
Hydroxide ions breaks
disulfide bonds by acidic
hydrogen atoms next to the
sulfur atoms.
Once hydrogen bonds have
been broken, it can never be
reform. Instead lanthionine
bonds are formed.
Lanthionization Process
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During the chemical
process, (chemical
change) Hydroxide
Relaxers breaks the
disulfide bonds differently
than Thio Relaxers.
Hydroxide Relaxers
removes one atom of
sulfur, making it a
lanthionine bond in a
process call
lanthionization.
Hydroxide Neutralizers
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Neutralizers reforms the
bonds into a straight pattern.
The hydroxide relaxers
deactivates and neutralizes
the alkaline left in the hair.
A neutralizing shampoo must
be used following the rinse to
normalize the Ph of the hair.
Some neutralizer have built-in
color indicators that signals
when the hair has returned to
a normal Ph.
Sodium Hydroxide Relaxers- (NaOH)
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Sodium Hydroxide is
the most commonly
used relaxer on the
market.
Also called Lye
Relaxer.
Hair can swell more
than twice its size.
Use as packaged, no
mixing required.
Lithium and Potassium Hydroxide
Relaxers
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Sometimes advertised as “nolye” relaxers, which can be
very misleading.
Products are also highly
corrosive and extreme
damage can still occur.
The chemistry and
performance of the relaxer is
very similar to sodium
hydroxide relaxers.
Hydroxide ion is active
ingredient, making it also
incompatible with thio
permanents and relaxers.
Guanidine Hydroxide Relaxers
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Also advertised as “no-lye”
relaxer.
Contents of product must be
mixed, (cream and liquid).
Cream contains calcium
hydroxide.
Liquid contains guanidine
carbonate.
Will not straighten effectively
unless mixed correctly and
equal porportions.
Recommended for sensitive
scalps and usually sold for
home use.
Two Types of Relaxer Formulas
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Base Formula- Requires
the application of
petroleum cream to scalp
for protection against
skin irritations. Applied
before relaxer product.
No-Base Formula- Base
cream is already in
relaxer, which melts at
body temperature.
Provides thin oily
protective coating for
scalp.
Hair Relaxer Strengthens
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Relaxers are marketed
and categorized by the
strength of the
product.
Chemically, the
strength depends on
the amount hydroxide
ions are present in the
product.
Relaxer Strengths
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Mild- Formulated for
fine, color-treated, or
slightly damaged hair.
RegularRecommended for
normal hair with
medium curl.
Super- Intended for
coarse hair that is
extremely curly.
Conclusion
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Hydroxide Relaxer are highly caustic and can
cause extreme damage to hair. Professionalism
and safety must be used.
Relaxers come in different types, strengths,
bases, and ingredients. Selection of which relaxer
to use must be analyzed with care.
Hydroxide Relaxers are NOT COMPATIABLE
with Thio Relaxers. Extreme damage could occur.
Works Cited
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www.wikipedia.com
Milady’s Standard
Textbook, copyright
2004
Hair Structure and
Chemistry Simplified,
John Halal, copyright
2009