Textile Testing Quality Control
Path to the Customer’s Heart
Textile Test Products 2002
Our business is driven
by standards
Textile Test Products 2002
What is standardization?

Standardization is the single solution of a
recurring problem under the given scientific,
technical and economic possibilities.
Textile Test Products 2002
How old is standardization?

Ancient Egypt, 4000 years ago
Standard on bricks made of mud of the river Nile: Length: 41
cm, width: 20 cm.

Ancient Rome, 2000 years ago
Standard on water pipes of lead: Fixed dimensions, minimum
weight and numerical designation of pipes.
Textile Test Products 2002
What is a standard?

Different definitions by different organizations

ISO-Definition:
Standards are documented agreements containing technical
specifications or other precise criteria to be used consistently
as rules, guidelines, or definitions of characteristics, to
ensure that materials, products, processes and services are
fit for their purpose.
Textile Test Products 2002
Technical Standards

Standards are
developed voluntarily
used voluntarily

Standards become legally binding
when a government references them in a regulation
when they are cited in a contract
Textile Test Products 2002
Technical Standards

Standards contain
a main part
Annexes or Appendixes

The content is
mandatory (main part, normative annex) or
informal (notes, nonmandatory or informative annex)
Textile Test Products 2002
Technical Standards

Examples for different types of standards
(ASTM):
classification
guide
practice
specification
terminology
test method
Textile Test Products 2002
Technical Standards

Standards for test methods
may describe the required instruments in detail including
drawings, pictures, type of instrument, name and address of
manufacturer etc.
(often in company standards, American standards, “old“ ISO
standards)
may describe the performance of the test
(“new“ ISO standards, CEN standards)
Textile Test Products 2002
Technical Standards

"Performance based standards "- what does it mean?
They focus on the intent of the standard and will no longer
specify the type of equipment or manufacturer
They allow the user to conduct a test using non-specific
instrument parameters (basis: testing procedures)
They allow the manufacturer to design and to make
improvements to instruments without being "locked in" to a
particular design
Textile Test Products 2002
Technical Standards
 Performance
based standards
advantage: does not retard the technical progress
disadvantage: open for competitors
disadvantage: may increase variability
Textile Test Products 2002
Standardization Organizations

Different levels of Standardization
International
ISO, IEC
Regional (European, Arabian countries, Latin America, ...)
CEN, CENELEC, ...
National
ANSI, BSI, DIN, JISC, ...
Industry Association
AATCC, SAE, VDA, ...
Company
JC Penney, Marks & Spencer,
Sears, Victoria’s Secret...
Textile Test Products 2002
Standardization Organizations
International

ISO - International Standardization Organization
founded 1947
headquarter: Geneva, Switzerland
130 members, one in each country
2,800 technical bodies, 30,000 experts
12,000 standards
ISO standards may, but do not have to be published by ISO members
as national standards. Changes are allowed.

IEC - International Electrotechnical Commission
founded 1906
headquarter: Geneva, Switzerland
formal agreement with ISO, JTC
Textile Test Products 2002
Standardization Organizations
ISO Members
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Australia (SAA)
Brazil (ABNT)
Canada (SCC)
Chile (INN)
China (CSBTS)
Colombia (ICONTEC)
Costa Rica (INTECO)
Ecuador (INEN)
Indonesia (BSN)
Israel (SII)
Textile Test Products 2002
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Japan (JISC)
Malaysia (DSM)
Mexico (DGN)
New Zealand (SNZ)
Panama (COPANIT)
Philippines (BPS)
Singapore (PSB)
Thailand (TISI)
USA (ANSI)
and many more ...
Standardization Organizations
Europe

CEN - European Committee for Standardization
founded in the beginning of the sixties
headquarter: Brussels, Belgium
members: EC + EFTA + Czech Republic
CEN standards have to be published by CEN members as
national standards without any change.

CENELEC - European Committee for
Electrotechnical Standardization
Textile Test Products 2002
Standardization Organizations
CEN Members
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Austria (ON)
Belgium (IBN/BIN)
Czech Republic (CSNI)
Denmark (DS)
Finland (SFS)
France (AFNOR)
Germany (DIN)
Greece (ELOT)
Iceland (STRÍ)
Ireland (NSAI)
Textile Test Products 2002
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Italy (UNI)
Luxembourg (SEE)
Netherlands (NNI)
Norway (NSF)
Portugal (IPQ)
Spain (AENOR)
Sweden (SIS)
Switzerland (SNV)
United Kingdom (BSI)
Standardization Organizations
Cooperation

ISO/CEN Cooperation: Vienna agreement of 1991.
The agreement defines procedures for the following:
• cooperation by correspondence
• cooperation by mutual representation at meetings
• adoption of existing International Standards as
European Standards
• cooperation by transfer of work and parallel
approval of standards
Principal guideline: General test methods should be developed
within ISO. Requests for general test methods within CEN
should be transferred to ISO.
Textile Test Products 2002
Standardization Organizations
Committees

ISO
Technical Committees

CEN
Technical Committees
TC 35 (Paints)
TC 139 (Paints)
TC 38 (Textiles)
TC 248 (Textiles)
TC 61 (Plastics)
TC 249 (Plastics)
Textile Test Products 2002
Standardization Organizations
USA

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Governmental sector
80 Organizations, 44,000 standards
department of defense alone 34,000 standards
Private sector
620 Organizations, 49,000 standards
central co-ordination: ANSI
130 professional associations and scientific Organizations (for
example AATCC, SAE),
14,000 standards
300 trade Organizations, 16,000 standards
40 Standardization Organization (for example ASTM),
17,000 standards
Textile Test Products 2002
Standardization Organizations
USA

ANSI - American National Standards Institute
founded 1918
non-profit Organization
coordinating Standardization work of 175 accredited
Organizations in the private sector
no standard development
member of ISO and IEC
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ASTM - American Society for Testing and Materials
founded 1898
profit Organization
132 committees, 32,000 members
10,000 standards
Textile Test Products 2002
Standardization Organizations
USA

SAE - Society of Automotive Engineers
founded 1905
non-profit Organization
14,000 active members
1,400 automotive standards

AATCC - American Association of
Textile Chemists and Colorists
founded 1921
1,000 active members
185 standard methods, more than 40 % related to ISO
standards
Textile Test Products 2002
QUESTIONS????
Textile Test Products 2002
Textile Test Products 2002
Colorfastness to Crocking
 Crocking
- A transfer of colorant from the
surface of a colored yarn or fabric to another
surface or to an adjacent area of the same
fabric principally by rubbing
 Although a physical process, the primary
evaluation is for appearance (color)
 Wet and dry evaluation typically performed
Textile Test Products 2002
Crocking Instruments
 Applicable
to many textile materials including
dye and printed fabrics, carpeting, and
automotive interior materials
 Manual (for shorter tests) and automatic
models available
 Linear and rotating motion models
 Can be adapted to provide simple abrasion
tests for other materials
Textile Test Products 2002
Colorfastness to Crocking
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AATCC Test Method 8 - Basic Crockmeter Method
AATCC Test Method 116 - Rotary Vertical
AATCC Test Method 165 - Carpets
ISO 105-D02 - Organic Solvents
ISO 105-X12 - Colorfastness to rubbing
SAE J861 - Organic trim materials
ASTM D5053 - Leather
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Test Method 8 (Basic)
 Recommended
specimen size 5cm by 13cm
 Wet and dry tests are specified
 Mount white test cloth with the weave parallel
to the direction of rubbing
 Run test for 10 complete turns
 Evaluate the white test cloth using the Gray
Scale for Staining
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Test Method 8 (Basic)
 For
the wet test:
Establish technique for preparing wet crock cloth
squares by weighing a conditioned square,
then thoroughly wet out a white testing square
in distilled water
The wet pick-up should be 65 ± 5%
Use of a hand wringer is recommended
White cloth dried and conditioned prior to
evaluation
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Test Method 116 (Rotary
Vertical Method)
 Method
is especially useful for prints where
the singling out of areas smaller than possible
to test with Method 8 is required
 Wet and dry tests specified
 20 complete turns specified
 Evaluation performed with the Gray Scale for
Staining
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Test Method 165 (Carpets)
 Testing
before/after treatments such as
shampooing, steam or hot water extraction, or
antistatic/antisoil application has been found
useful
 Wet and Dry testing specified
 Ten complete turns (one per second)
specified
 Evaluate with Gray Scale for Staining
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Crockmeter - CM-1
 Manual
unit
recommended for
shorter tests
 Has cycle counter
 Comes standard
with 16 mm finger
and 9 newton arm
 For wet and dry
tests
Textile Test Products 2002
• Cloth, abrasive paper,
and spring clip supplied
CM-5 Crockmeter
 Automatic
unit
recommended for
long/frequent tests
 Electrically powered
 Count-up timer with
automatic shut
down
• Cloth, abrasive paper,
and spring clip supplied
Textile Test Products 2002
CM-6 Crockmeter
 Manual
unit
 Reciprocating
rotary
motion to meet AATCC
Test Method 116
 Can
be used for wet
and dry testing
Textile Test Products 2002
Verification checks are
extremely important to
avoid incorrect results.
Potential problems
include:
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Crocking finger may need resurfacing
Loose clips
Incorrect mounting
Loops to wire clips positioned downward
Metal base warped
Use Crocking Calibration Cloth!!
Textile Test Products 2002
Crockmeter Testing
 Non-textile
applications
Paint scratch and mar
UV curable inks using methyl ethyl ketone (MEK)
Plastic abrasion
Copier toners
Image fastness
• ASTM F1319
Textile Test Products 2002
Abrasion Resistance
 AATCC Accelerotor®
Simulates dry, moist or wet
abrasion
Watertight test chamber
Different grade liners
Reference AATCC Test
Method 93
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Accelerotor®


Fabric rotated within an
abrasive lined cylinder
Fabric subjected to:
flexing
rubbing
shock
compression
stretching
other mechanical forces
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Accelerotor®

Results affected by:
length of time
size and shape of impeller
rotational speed
abrasive liner
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Accelerotor®

Typical tests run 2-6
minutes
• Special sizes and shapes of
rotors are available
Textile Test Products 2002
Specimen Preparation and
Evaluation
 Method
A (Weight Loss)
Specimen size determined by weight of fabric
Procedure specifies measurement to  0.1%
 Method
B (Strength Loss)
Special specimen preparation requirements
Procedure specifies ASTM D5034 -- “Test for
Breaking Force and Elongation of Textile Fabrics
(Grab Test)”
 Other
Textile Test Products 2002
Evaluation Methods
Bean Bag Snag Tester
 Reference
ASTM Test
Method D5362 Standard Test Method
for Snagging
Resistance of Fabrics
(Bean Bag Test
Method)
Textile Test Products 2002
Bean Bag Snag Tester
 Simulates
fabric
snagging and
picking through a
tumbling action
 Provides
good enduse simulation
Textile Test Products 2002
Bean Bag Snag Tester
 Applicable
to knits
and double knits
 Snag
and picks
result from fabric
tumbling against
series of rotating
pins
Textile Test Products 2002
Snagging Resistance
 Snag
- A yarn or part of a yarn pulled or
plucked from the surface
 Distortion
- General term for a visible defect in
the texture of a fabric
 Protrusion
- Visible group of fibers (or yarn)
that extends above the fabric surface
Textile Test Products 2002
Snagging Resistance
 Three
types of snags identified:
snags that have protrusion and no distortion
snags that have distortion and no protrusion
snags that have both distortion and protrusion
 Distortion
- Tension on a snagged yarn:
changing the size of loops within a knitted fabric
causing breakage within a woven fabric
Textile Test Products 2002
Bean Bag Snag Tester
 Uses
bean bags
weighing
approximately 0.45 kg
 Automatic
shut off
after 100 revolutions
Textile Test Products 2002
Snagging Resistance Method
 Laundering/Drycleaning
 Specimen
as required
preparation
Make “socks” from 215mm by 115mm swatches
Sew supplied bean bags in these “socks”
 Typical
test runs 100 revolutions
 Specimen evaluation
Textile Test Products 2002
Snagging Evaluation
 Option
A (From ASTM D5362)
ICI Photographic Snagging Standards
Rating system of “5” (no snagging) to “1” (very
severe snagging)
 Option
B (From ASTM D5362)
Points accumulated based on type of snag
Rating system based on total number of points
observed
Textile Test Products 2002
Pilling Resistance
 Common
definitions are:
Fuzz - Untangled fiber ends that protrude from the
surface of a yarn or fabric
Pills - Bunches or balls of tangled fibers that are held
to the surface of a fabric by one or more fibers
Textile Test Products 2002
Pilling Resistance
Standards
 ASTM
D3512 - Standard Test Method for
Pilling Resistance and Other Related Surface
Changes of Textile Fabrics: Random Tumble
Pilling Tester Method
 DIN 53867
 JIS
L1076
Textile Test Products 2002
Random Tumble Pilling Tester
 Determines
resistance
to pilling and related
surface changes
 Applicable to knitted and
woven fabrics
 Clear, lighted viewing
chambers
Textile Test Products 2002
Random Tumble Pilling Tester
 Pills
result from random
tumble action against a
mild abrasive
 Cotton fiber added to
initiate pill formation
 Air injection system
 Good correlation to enduse performance
Textile Test Products 2002
Pilling Resistance Test Method
 Laundering/Drycleaning
as required
 Specimens cut to 105mm squares 45° to the
warp and fill directions
Textile Test Products 2002
Pilling or Non-Pilling?
Textile Test Products 2002
Pilling or Non-Pilling?
 Hoechst
Trevira Tested the Correlation
between 2 Pilling Methods With Real Wear

Random Tumble Pilling Test (DIN 53867)

Martindale Method (DIN 53865/ISO CD
12945/2)
Textile Test Products 2002
Pilling or Non-Pilling?
 Benchmark
(Real Wear) Setup
21 fabrics of different origins and
constructions by different weavers
8 Wearers of articles for 6 weeks of different
sizes/wear patterns
Clothing assessed (DIN 53867) and dry-cleaned
every week (5 days)
Textile Test Products 2002
Pilling or Non-Pilling?
 Results
Martindale showed greatly differing values when
compared to the wear test
RTPT Test showed good correlation to wear test
Textile Test Products 2002
After
Wear
P.O.S.
Wool / Linen 65/35 (290 g/linear m)
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
Be fore Cle aning
Afte r Cle aning
RTPT
P.O.S.
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
Days
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
0
5
10
20
30
40
50
60
90
120
Minutes
9
8
7
6
5
Martindale
4
3
2
1
0
125
500
1000 2000 3000
4000 5000 6000
Revolutions
After
Wear
P.O.S.
Trevira 350/Wool 55/45 (250 g/linear m)
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
Before Cleaning
After Cleaning
RTPT
P.O.S.
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
Days
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
0
5
10
20
30
40
50
60
90
120
Minutes
9
8
7
6
5
Martindale
4
3
2
1
0
125
500
1000 2000 3000
4000 5000 6000
Revolutions
After
Wear
P.O.S.
Trevira 350/Viscose 67/33 (360 g/linear m)
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
Be fore Cle aning
Afte r Cle aning
RTPT
P.O.S.
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
Days
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
0
5
10
20
30
40
50
60
90
120
Minutes
9
8
7
6
5
4
Martindale
3
2
1
0
125
500
1000
2000
3000
4000
5000
Revolutions
When gluing the edges of
pilling specimens to prevent
raveling, apply the glue
with the edge of a piece of
cardboard. Adhesive can be
thinned with water.
Textile Test Products 2002
Universal Wear Tester
 Other
names include:
Stoll Quartermaster Wear
Tester
Flex Abrasion Tester
Surface Abrader
CS 22C
Textile Test Products 2002
Flexing and Abrasion
Resistance

Common definitions are:
Abrasion - The wearing away of any part of a
material by rubbing against another surface
• Surface abrasion
• Edge and fold abrasion
• Flex abrasion
Frosting - A change of fabric color caused by
localized abrasive wear
Textile Test Products 2002
Universal Wear Tester
 Used
to test:
Woven, knitted, napped
and pile fabrics
Non-woven and coated
fabrics
Plastic films and rubber
sheeting
Athletic shoe materials
Textile Test Products 2002
Universal Wear Tester
 Other
features:
Frosting Attachment
Continuous Change
Abradant Head
Edge & Fold Abrasion
Clamp
Electrical Depth Micrometer
Textile Test Products 2002
Flexing and Abrasion
Resistance Test Methods
 AATCC
Test Method 119 (Screen Wire)
 AATCC
Test Method 120 (Emery Method)
 ASTM
D3885 (Flexing and Abrasion Method)
 ASTM
D3886 (Inflated Diaphragm Method)
 FTMS
191-5300 and 5302
Textile Test Products 2002
Test Method Specifics (AATCC)




Method 119
12.7 cm by 12.7 cm
1200 cycles suggested
Uses stainless steel
wire abradant
Evaluate using Gray
Scale
Textile Test Products 2002




Method 120
10.8 cm diameter circles
100 cycles suggested
Uses inflated rubber
diaphragm and abradant
Evaluate using Gray
Scale
Test Method Specifics (ASTM)

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Method D3885
200 mm by 38 mm
300 cycles suggested
Uses yoke positioning
device
Evaluate for both
appearance and physical
changes
Textile Test Products 2002
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Method D3886
112 mm diameter circles
Test to failure or cycle #
Uses inflated rubber
diaphragm and abradant
Evaluate for both
appearance and physical
changes
Fabric Streak Analyzer
 Used
to determine
cause of streaks or
uneven dyeing of
knitted fabric
 Used by knitters as
a Quality Control
Device
•
No official test method
• Recommended by Cotton Inc.
Textile Test Products 2002
Fabric Streak Analyzer
(Principles of Operation)
 Optical
grade polystyrene film placed on base
plate
 Fabric placed on polystyrene
 Neoprene™ diaphragm placed on fabric
 Cover secures all layers
 Compressed air used to apply pressure on
the fabric and polystyrene
Textile Test Products 2002
Fabric Streak Analyzer
(Principles of Operation)
 Heat
applied to the base to soften the
polystyrene
 Pressurized sample is forced into the
softened polystyrene
 Heat turned off and cold water is circulated
through the base hardening the polystyrene
 Fabric separated from the polystyrene
Textile Test Products 2002
Fabric Streak Analyzer
(Principles of Evaluation)
 Image
 If
in the polystyrene examined for flaw
a streak or defect is seen in the polystyrene
problem belongs to the knitter
 If
a streak or defect is NOT seen in the
polystyrene
problem belongs to the dyer
Textile Test Products 2002
Fabric sample should
extend beyond the
gasket to allow air
trapped between the
fabric and plastic
sheet to escape.
Textile Test Products 2002
Laboratory Wringer
 Provides
repeatable
method for evenly
extracting excess
liquids from fabrics
 Used as an
accessory to many
ISO, AATCC, and
ASTM methods
Textile Test Products 2002
Laboratory Wringer
 Padder
used for
wetting materials
prior to wringing
 Adjustable weights
for the top roller
 Safety switches stop
motor if rollers
forced apart
Textile Test Products 2002
•
Neoprene® or Teflon®coated rollers available
AATCC Perspiration Tester
Textile Test Products 2002
Colorfastness to
Perspiration
 Specimens
of colored textiles are wet out in
simulated perspiration solution, subjected to a
fixed mechanical pressure and allowed to dry
slowly at a slightly elevated temperature.
 AATCC Test Method 15 -- Perspiration
 AATCC Test Method 107 -- Water
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Perspiration Tester
Textile Test Products 2002
Colorfastness to
Perspiration
 Applicable
to dyed, printed or otherwise
colored textile fibers, yarns and fabrics
 Also
applicable to dyestuffs
 Alkaline
test eliminated after studies done in
1974
Some international and special end-use still require
alkaline test
Textile Test Products 2002
Scorch Tester
 Scorch
Tester used for:
Colorfastness to Dry Heat
Colorfastness to Pressing
Tensile Loss from Chlorine
Retention
Textile Test Products 2002
Colorfastness to Heat
 AATCC
Test Method 117 -- (Dry heat)
Various temperature ranges depending on
requirements and the stability of the fibers
 AATCC
Test Method 133 -- (Hot pressing)
Dry, damp, and wet pressing methods described
depending on the end use of the textile
Various temperature levels used depending on class
of textile tested
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Test Method 117
 Specimen
 Testing
size not specified
time is 30 seconds
 Pressure
specified is 40 ± 10 g/cm2
 Evaluate
specimens for color change using:
Gray Scale for Color Change (Dyed fabrics)
Gray Scale for Staining (Undyed fabrics)
Textile Test Products 2002
Temperature Levels for
AATCC Test Method 117
AATCC
Level I
Level II
Level III
Level IV
Level V
Level VI
Textile Test Products 2002
149 ± 2C
163 ± 2C
177 ± 2C
191 ± 2C
205 ± 2C
219 ± 2C
Temperature Levels for
AATCC Test Method 117
ISO
Level I
Level II
Level III
Textile Test Products 2002
150 ± 2C
180 ± 2C
210 ± 2C
AATCC Test Method 133
 Dry
Pressing -- Dry specimen pressed with
heating device
 Damp Pressing -- Dry specimen covered with
wet, undyed cotton cloth, then pressed with
heating device
 Wet Pressing -- Wet specimen covered with
wet, undyed cotton cloth, then pressed with
heating device
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Test Method 133
 Temperatures
specified:
110 ± 2C
150 ± 2C
200 ± 2C
 Table
I of this test method identifies safe
ironing temperatures for most fabrics
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Test Method 133
 Specimen
size of 12cm by 4cm is
recommended
 Yarn or thread, knitted to a fabric of above
dimensions, is acceptable
 Dry, damp, and wet pressing all require 15
seconds of testing
 Evaluate
Textile Test Products 2002
using Gray Scale for Color Change
Scorch Tester
 Used
for both Test
Methods 117 and 133
 Upper plate hinged for
sample removal
 Adjustable pressure
 Thermostatic control
 Pyrometer
temperature indicator
Textile Test Products 2002
Fixotest®
Textile Test Products 2002

Designed for the
European market

CE approved

Meets ISO 105 P01,
ISO 105 X11,
AATCC TM 117 &
133
Tensile Loss Due to Chlorine
Retention
 AATCC
Test Method 92 (Single sample
method)

AATCC Test Method 114 (Multiple sample
method)
Textile Test Products 2002
Tensile Loss Due to Chlorine
Retention (Single Sample)
 Fabrics
treated in sodium hypochlorite
solution, rinsed, dried, and pressed between
metal plates
 Solution should contain 0.25% available
chlorine at a pH of 9.5
 Uses stock solution (such as Clorox) diluted
with distilled water
Textile Test Products 2002
Tensile Loss Due to Chlorine
Retention (Single Sample)
 Recommended
sample size is 35.6cm (warp
direction) by 20.3cm (fill direction)
 Chlorination step involves wetting, bath in
solution, and rinsing a total of six times
 Samples are to be air dried
 Five strips cut from specimen (for tensile test)
Textile Test Products 2002
Tensile Loss Due to Chlorine
Retention (Multiple Sample)
 Specimens
are prepared using an automatic
washing machine and tumble dryer
 Washing,
chlorination, and drying settings are
specified in the Test Method
 Specimen
and tensile strip size are identical
to the Single Sample Method
Textile Test Products 2002
Tensile Loss Due to Chlorine
Retention (Single Sample)
 Recommended
sample size is 35.6cm (warp
direction) by 20.3cm (fill direction)
 Chlorination step involves wetting, bath in
solution, and rinsing a total of six times
 Samples are to be air dried
 Five strips cut from specimen (for tensile test)
Textile Test Products 2002
Tensile Loss Due to Chlorine
Retention (Multiple Sample)
 Specimens
are prepared using an automatic
washing machine and tumble dryer
 Washing,
chlorination, and drying settings are
specified in the Test Method
 Specimen
and tensile strip size are identical
to the Single Sample Method
Textile Test Products 2002
Tensile Loss Due to Chlorine
Retention
 Strips
scorched for 30 seconds as shown
below:
Heating Plate
Strip specimen
Scorched Area
Textile Test Products 2002
Tensile Loss Due to Chlorine
Retention
Tensile testing should be performed on
unchlorinated, unscorched, and scorched
specimens
 Calculate tensile strength and report as a
percentage loss

Textile Test Products 2002
Water Repellency:
Tumble Jar Dynamic Absorption
Test
 Absorbency
- the propensity of a material to
take in and retain a liquid, usually water, in
the pores and interstices of the material
 Water
Repellency - The characteristic of a
fiber, yarn or fabric to resist wetting
Textile Test Products 2002
Dynamic Absorption Tester
 Set
of specimens
placed into tumble jar
with distilled water
 20 minute cycle
 Specimens dried with
Lab Wringer
 Weighed to nearest
0.1g
Textile Test Products 2002
Water Repellency:
Tumble Jar Dynamic Absorption
Test
 Specimens
cut into five 20.3cm x 20.3cm
squares

Squares cut on 45° bias

Liquid latex or rubber cement spread on
edges to prevent yarns from ravelling
Textile Test Products 2002
Water Repellency:
Tumble Jar Dynamic Absorption
Test
 AATCC
Test Method 70
 Test is suited for fabrics to which a finish
(designed for water repellency) has been
applied
 Subjects fabrics to end use conditions
 Not intended to measure rain penetration
Test measures water into (not through) the fabric
Textile Test Products 2002
QUESTIONS????
Textile Test Products 2002
New Laundering Technology
 Quickwash Plus
Laundering Test for Shrinkage and
Colorfastness
Single wash/rinse/dry cycle in 15
minutes
Correlates within 1% of AATCC
Method 135
Correlates well with ISO 6330
Saves on labor, utilities, materials
and TIME
Victoria’s Secret Stores March 2, 2001
New Test Methods
 AATCC
TM 187-2000
Dimensional Stability of
Fabrics: Accelerated
Victoria’s Secret Stores March 2, 2001
Correlation
Quickwash v. 5 cycles AATCC TM 135
12
12
% lengthwise shrinkage
% widthwise shrinkage
10
10
8
8
6
6
4
4
2
2
0
Fleece
Twill
Jersey Oxford
Pique
0
Fleece
Quickwash Test
AATCC TM 135 test 5 cycles
Victoria’s Secret Stores March 2, 2001
Twill
Jersey Oxford Pique
Quickwash Accessories
 QuickView™
Optical measurement for
fabric shrinkage testing
Uses digital camera with
microprocessor analysis
No grid placement or
alignment required
Victoria’s Secret Stores March 2, 2001
Quickwash Accessories
 QuickTemp™
Electronic temperature
controller for domestic
laundry machines used
in a laboratory
Control wash and rinse
water temperature within
1°C
Victoria’s Secret Stores March 2, 2001
Specimen Preparation
Accessories
 QuickPunch™
Tabletop device for
stamping out multiple
fabric specimens
Cuts precise and accurate
specimens quickly and
safely
Prepares specimens for
variety of textile tests
Victoria’s Secret Stores March 2, 2001
Specimen Preparation
Accessories
 QuickCircle™
Cut standard 100 cm2
round specimens easily
Precise specimens cut by
pressing a button
Blade spins with equal
pressure incision
Victoria’s Secret Stores March 2, 2001
Specimen Preparation
Accessories
 QuickCalc™
Determines fabric yield
Converts standard 100 cm2
round specimen weight
to g/m2 or oz/yd2
Features ratio analysis for
blended materials
Victoria’s Secret Stores March 2, 2001
Specimen Preparation
Accessories
 QuickDry™
Dries specimens in 7 to 10
minutes
Tumbling action and warm
air circulation eliminates
distortion
Smooth specimens for
easy measuring
Victoria’s Secret Stores March 2, 2001
Laundering Equipment
Applications
 Washfastness
 Dry
Tests
Cleaning Tests
 Efficiency
of washing detergents
 Laboratory
Textile Test Products 2002
dyeing
Laundering Tests

Common definitions:
Washfastness - the property of a material, usually an
assigned number, depicting a ranked change in its
color characteristics as a result of laundering,
drycleaning, or other means of soil removal
Textile Test Products 2002
Common Laundering Test
Methods
AATCC Test Method 61 - Accelerated test for
Home and Commercial Laundering
 AATCC Test Method 86 - Drycleaning of
Applied Designs and Finishes
 AATCC Test Method 132 - Drycleaning
 AATCC Test Method 151 - Resistance to Soil
Redeposition

Textile Test Products 2002
Common Laundering Test
Methods

ISO 105 C01 through C05 - Colorfastness to
washing tests which between them cover mild
to severe washing procedures

ISO 105 C06 - Colorfastness to domestic and
commercial laundry

ISO 105 D01 - Colorfastness to Drycleaning
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Test Method 61

Accelerated test to evaluate colorfastness to
laundering

One 45-minute test closely approximates five
hand, home or commercial washings

Staining effects not as predictable

Method first developed in 1950
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Test Method 61

Abrasive action for acceleration caused by:
Frictional effects of fabric against the container,
Low solution ratio
Impact of steel balls on the fabric

Several test methods specified for different
applications
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Test Method 61
 Specimen
size 5cm by 10cm or 5cm by 15cm
depending on test cycle
 Use Multifiber Test Fabric for staining
determination
 Test method describes specific preparation
procedures for knitted fabrics, piles, and
yarns
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Test Method 61
Test No. 1A -- Hand laundering, Low Temp.
Test No. 2A -- Machine laundering, Low Temp.
Test No. 3A -- Heavy duty cycles, High Temp.
Test No. 4A -- Chlorine test, Low % Solution
Test No. 5A -- Chlorine test, High % Solution
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Test Method 61
Test No.
Temp
(C)
1A
40
200 mL
0.37
None
10
45
2A
49
150 mL
0.15
None
50
45
3A
71
50 mL
0.15
None
100
45
4A
71
50 mL
0.15
0.015%
100
45
5A
49
150 mL
0.15
0.027%
50
45
Textile Test Products 2002
Liquid
%
No. Steel Time
Volume Detergent Chlorine
Balls
(min.)
AATCC Launder-Ometer
 Atlas
Launder-Ometer
accepted formally by
AATCC
 Optimum agitation
method
 Precise temperature
control
 Programmable cycle
testing
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Launder-Ometer®
AATCC Launder-Ometer®
 Used
for washfastness
testing up to 93 °C
 Water bath stainless steel
construction
 Manually set thermostat
 20 position stainless steel
rotor
Textile Test Products 2002
20 Position Rotor
AATCC Launder-Ometer®
 Programmable
thermostat
Multiple step heating and
cooling programs
Storage for 99 programs
Digital temperature display
 Optional
pre-heater
 Optional rotor for special
2400 mL container size
PS-5 Preheater Module
Textile Test Products 2002
Atlas LP2 Launder-Ometer®
 High
temperature dyeing up
to 150 °C
 Washfastness tester
 Glycerin or water bath
 Microprocessor control
 Multiple container sizes
Textile Test Products 2002
Other Laboratory Dyeing Laundering Equipment
 Linitest+
Laboratory
Dyeing and Fastness
System
Referenced in ISO
Colorfastness to Laundering
Methods and corresponding
national tests
ISO 105 E12 - Fastness to
milling (severe tests)
Compact table top system
Manufactured in Germany
Textile Test Products 2002
Washfastness Testing
 Industries
Textiles
Dye laboratories
Dye-stuff manufacturers
Producers of detergents
Textile Test Products 2002
QUESTIONS????
Textile Test Products 2002
Lightfastness Testing of
Textiles
Textile Test Products 2002
Colorfastness to Light -
Textile Test Products 2002
Textile Testing Elements
 Lightfastness
“The property of a material, usually an assigned
number, depicting a ranked change in its color
characteristics as a result of exposure of the
material to sunlight or an artificial light source.”
Loss of color (Fading)
Fiber degradation
Textile Test Products 2002
Colorfastness to Light -Test
Methods
 AATCC
Test Method 16
Used by Majority of Textile Manufacturers in USA
 ISO
105 B02
Used by Majority of Textile Manufacturers in Europe
Approximately 60% use Air Cooled / 40% use
Water Cooled
 SAE
J1885
A severe test used by US automobile manufacturers
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Test Method 16
 Option
A, D - Carbon-Arc
 Option C - Daylight
 Option E, F - Water-Cooled Xenon-Arc
 Option H, I, J - Air-Cooled Xenon-Arc
Options for each device represent continuous or
alternating light/dark cycles
Textile Test Products 2002
Test Method 16 - Option C
(Daylight)
 Test
specimens exposed behind glass
2 mm single strength sheet glass
 Specimens
should be at least 75 mm below
glass surface
 Different exposure types will give different
exposure temperature conditions
Open backed - Lower temperatures
(Solid) backed - Higher temperatures
Textile Test Products 2002
Under Glass Exposure Rack
Textile Test Products 2002
Static Indirect
Glass Solar Energy Transmittance
80
60
40
20
Wavelength (nm)
Textile Test Products 2002
SS Window Glass
Laminated
Herculite (clear)
LOF EZ-Kool
400
390
380
370
360
350
340
330
320
310
300
0
Laboratory Accelerated Tests
Desirable Characteristics:
 Exact
match to end-use conditions
 Does not alter degradation mechanisms;
i.e. “correlates” with end-use
 Repeatable and reproducible
 Independent control over stress factors
 Provides “acceleration” over real time
Textile Test Products 2002
Lightfastness to AATCC 16

Principles
Specimens (and AATCC Blue Wool Standards)are
exposed under specified conditions.
The duration of the exposure is usually determind by a
specified amont of light exposure in AATCC Fading
Units (AFU)
The Lightfastness is evaluated visually by comparison of
the contrasts between exposed and unexposed
protions of the specimens to the steps of the „ AATCC
Gray Scale for Color Change“ or instrumental by Color
measurement.
Lightfastness classification by evaluation versus the
simultaneously exposed AATCC Blue Wool Standards
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Fading Units
 One AATCC
Fading Unit (AFU) is 1/20 of the
exposure required to produce a color change
equal to Step 4 of the Gray Scale for Color
Change on an L4 Blue Wool
 20 AFUs determined to be 85 kJ/m2 @ 420
nm exposure based on interlaboratory test
study
 L4 used for instrument calibration:
Fading of L4 equal to step 4 Gray Scale or Delta E
1,7 +- 0,3 in 20 +- 2 hours
Textile Test Products 2002
Test Method 16 - Options E, F
(Water-Cooled Xenon Arc)
Option E
63°C BPT
43°C Dry Bulb
Continuous Light
30% R.H.
Soda Lime Outer Filter
Borosilicate Inner Filter
1.10 W/m2 @ 420 nm
Textile Test Products 2002
Option F
63°C BPT
43°C Dry Bulb
3.8 Hrs Light/1.0 Hrs Dark
35% R.H./90% R.H.
Soda Lime Outer Filter
Borosilicate Inner Filter
1.10 W/m2 @ 420 nm
Relative Irradiance (W/m2 per nm)
Filtered Xenon Arc Vs. Sunlight
Wavelength in nanometers
Textile Test Products 2002
Test Method 16 - Option H
(Air-Cooled Xenon Arc)
Option H
60°C BST
32°C Dry Bulb
Continuous Light
30% Relative Humidity
Seven special Borosilicate IR Absorbing Filters
1.25 W/m2 @ 420 nm
Textile Test Products 2002
Test Method 16 - Options I, J
(Air-Cooled Xenon Arc)
Option I
70°C BST
43°C Dry Bulb
Continuous Light
30% R.H.
Soda Lime Outer Filter
Quartz Inner Filter
1.10 W/m2 @ 420 nm
Textile Test Products 2002
Option J
70°C BST
43°C Dry Bulb
3.8 Hrs Light/1.0 Hrs Dark
35% R.H./90% R.H.
Soda Lime Outer Filter
Quartz Inner Filter
1.10 W/m2 @ 420 nm
Air-cooled Xenon




Meets requirements of ISO
105 test methods
Option for high irradiance
(220 W/m2 - 300 to 400
nm)
Same control features as
other high-end xenon arc
devices
Meets requirements of
Options H, I, and J
Xenotest® Alpha
Textile Test Products 2002
Lightfastness to ISO 105
Designation
Year
Title
A 01
1994
General Principles
A 02
1993
Grey Scale for Assessing Change in Colour
A 05
1996
Instrumental Assessment of Change in Colour
B 01
1994
Colourfastness to (Natural) Daylight
B 02
1994
Colourfastness to Artificial Daylight: Xenon
Arc
Textile Test Products 2002
Weatherfastness to ISO 105
Designation
Year
Title
B 03
1994
Colourfastness to Weathering: Outdoor
exposure
B 04
1994
Colourfastness to Artificial Weathering:
Xenon Arc
Textile Test Products 2002
ISO Blue Wool Standards
Standard 1 or L2
Standard 2 or L3
Standard 3 or L4
Second Cover
Standard 4 or L5
Standard 5 or L6
Standard 6 or L7
Standard 7 or L8
Standard 8 or L9
First Cover
Textile Test Products 2002
Procedure and Evaluation to
ISO 105
 Procedure 1 : Inspection of Specimen
Expose one specimen together with one set of Blue Wool
Standards until a contrast equal to Grey Scale step 4 – 5
(first break) is observed between exposed and unexposed
portions of the specimen
Note the number of the Blue Wool Standard showing the same
contrast
Continue exposure until the contrast is equal to Grey Scale
step 4
Change the cover mask
Continue exposure until the contrast is equal to Grey Scale
step 3
.
Textile Test Products 2002
Procedure and Evaluation to
ISO 105

Procedure 2 : Inspection of Blue Wool Standards
Expose several specimens together with one set of Blue Wool
Standards until a contrast equal to Grey Scale step 4 – 5
(first break) is observed between exposed and unexposed
portions of the Blue Wool Standard 3
Inspect specimens and note changes compared to Standards
1 – 3 (prelimanary assessment)
Continue exposure until the contrast is equal to Grey Scale
step 4 – 5 on Blue Wool Standard 4
Change the cover mask
Continue exposure until the contrast is equal to Grey Scale
step 4 – 5 on Blue Wool Standard 6
Change the cover mask
Continue exposure until the contrast is equal to Grey Scale
step 4 on Blue Wool Standard 7
Textile Test Products 2002
Procedure and Evaluation to
ISO 105
 Procedure
3 : checking conformity with a
performance specification
Expose the specimens with only 2 Blue Wool Standards:
the Standard of the requested lightfastness, e.g. 5
- the standard below, e g. 4
Expose until contrasts to Grey Scale Steps 4 and 3 (by
changing cover masks) have been obtained on the standard
of the requested lightfastness
Textile Test Products 2002
Standard Requirements to ISO
105 B02 - 1994
Operation
Turning Mode
Filter system
Light Filter with a transmission of 90% betwen 380 nm
and 750 nm, falling to 0 % between 310 nm and 320 nm
Irradiance recommended
42 W/m² ( 300 – 400 nm) for instruments using irradiance
control features
Max. Black Panel Temperature
Max. Black Standard Temperature
45 °C (normal cond.)/ 60 °C low H. / 40 °C high H.
50 °C
/ 65 °C
/ 45 °C
Rel.Humidity: Light Fastness on
Red Control Fabric
5
Textile Test Products 2002
/6–7
/3
Instrument Settings
Setting
Xenotest 150 S
Xenotest Alpha
Filter System
Lantern with 7 IR-Filters+ Lantern with 7 IR Filters
Borosilicate Cylinder
+ Borosilicate Cylinder
Irradiance (300-400nm) Power step 2
42 W/m²
Max. BPT / BST
(normal conditions)
45 / 50 °C
45 / 50 °C
Relative Humidity
(normal conditions)
40 – 50 %
should be checked with
Control Fabric
30 – 40 %
should be checked with
Control Fabric
Textile Test Products 2002
Textile Test Products 2002
The answer should be on your
desk!
Textile Test Products 2002
Follow the directions exactly
--Calibration
--Instrument settings
--Lamp Filters
Textile Test Products 2002
Ask Questions
Resources---• Atlas Representative
• AATCC, ASTM, etc
technical staff
• Your customer
• Your supplier
Textile Test Products 2002
Other things to examine
 Specimen
Thickness
 Specimen
Mounting
The irradiance received on the surfaces of an
exposed specimen is inversely proportional to
the square of the distance from the source.
Textile Test Products 2002
Irradiance Considerations
93,000,000 miles
Specimens exposed at any point (or elevation) on the
earth’s surface will not be affected by distance.
Textile Test Products 2002
Irradiance Considerations
 Different
size instruments are calibrated to
compensate for differences in rack diameter
 Features
to improve uniformity
Rotating rack around the light source
Three-tier inclined rack design
Proper lamp calibration
Textile Test Products 2002
Irradiance Considerations
10 in.
9 in.
Textile Test Products 2002
Irradiance Considerations
Applying the inverse square law:
Irradiance =
(Distance1)2
(Distance2)2
(10)2
1.23 =
(9)2
Conclusion: A specimen that extends one inch beyond
the specimen holder will receive 1.23 times the
irradiance reported by the fading device.
Textile Test Products 2002
Irradiance Considerations
18.5 in.
17.5 in.
Textile Test Products 2002
Irradiance Considerations
Applying the inverse square law:
Irradiance =
(Distance1)2
(Distance2)2
(18.5)2
1.12 =
(17.5)2
Conclusion: A specimen that extends one inch beyond
the specimen holder will receive 1.12 times the
irradiance reported by the fading device.
Textile Test Products 2002
Irradiance
Irradiance - Without Control
100
200
500
Time (hours)
Textile Test Products 2002
600
Irradiance
Irradiance With Control
100
200
500
600
Time or Radiant Exposure (kJ/m2)
Textile Test Products 2002
Colorfastness to Light - Test
Methods
Other Lightfastness Test Methods

AATCC Test Method 111 - Weather Resistance
111A, C - Carbon Arc (with/without wetting)
111B - Natural Light and Weather (Direct Exposure)
111D - Natural Light and Weather (Behind Glass)



AATCC Test Method 177 - Elevated Temp. and
Humidity
DIN 75202
DIN 54004
Textile Test Products 2002
Direct Weathering
45° South Exposure Rack
Textile Test Products 2002
Standard Reference Materials
AATCC Blue Wool
 AATCC
Blue Wool Lightfastness Standard
One of a group of dyed wool fabrics distributed by
AATCC for use in determining the amount of light
exposure of specimens during lightfastness testing
Various proportions of wool blends with a very
unstable dyestuff
L2 through L9 - Increasing degree of light stability
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Blue Wool
 Differs
from the ISO Blue Wool standards
CANNOT be used interchangeably
 Each
higher numbered standard is twice as
colorfast as the proceeding number
 More
uniform and reproducible results when
the Blue Wool is backed with white cardboard
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Blue Wool
 Humidity
and temperature sensitive
 Can
be used as troubleshooting tool for
lightfastness equipment for many factors
 Color
change in AATCC Blue Wool performed
the same as with test textile specimens
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Blue Wool
 Designed
for use as a dosimeter for
determining exposure
This use is becoming less common with the advent
of accurate radiometers
 L2
and L4 are used almost exclusively today
Textile Test Products 2002
Radiometric Quantities (Selected)
Radiant Energy:
Energy passed on as electromagnetic
radiation, e.g. heat, radio, light
Irradiance:
Radiant flux incident per unit area of surface
Units = W/m2
Spectral Irradiance:
Irradiance measured as a function of
wavelength
Units = W/m2 . nm
W = Watts
s = Seconds
nm = Nanometer
J = Joule
Textile Test Products 2002
m = Meter
Radiometric Quantities
Radiant Exposure:
(Irradiation)
Time integral of irradiance
J/m2 = W/m2 . s
kJ/m2 = 1000 J/m2
... To convert a value given in J/m2 to kJ/m2 , you must divide by
1000
2
kJ/m =
Textile Test Products 2002
W/m2 . s
1
1000
Radiometric Quantities

When exposure time is expressed in hours (h)
one must convert to seconds.
kJ/m2 =
W
1
•
h
•
• 3600
2
m
1000
Thus the familiar equation:
kJ/m2 = W/m2 • 3.6 • h
Textile Test Products 2002
s
h
Example

Use of equation:
kJ/m2 = W/m2 x 3.6 x (h)
To determine duration of a test for specific radiant exposure:
500 kJ/m2 • nm @ 420nm
When operating at an irradiance level of 1.10 W/m2 • nm:
500 kJ/m2 = 1.10 W/m2 x 3.6 x (h)
h =
Textile Test Products 2002
500 kJ/m2
1.10
W/m2
x 3.6
= 126 light hours
AATCC Fading Units

One AATCC Fading Unit (AFU) is 1/20 of the
exposure required to produce a color change equal to
Step 4 of the Gray Scale for Color Change on an L4
Blue Wool

20 AFUs determined to be 85 kJ/m2 @ 420 nm
exposure based on interlaboratory test study
Textile Test Products 2002
Calculation of Radiant Exposure
 Visual
evaluation of color change of Blue
Wool defined to determine (or verify) radiant
exposures
 Many companies use spectrophotometer to
measure change
Spectrophotometers measure color differently than
the human eye
Tables that define Step 4 of Grey Scale color change
confusing
 Because
suffer
Textile Test Products 2002
of confusion, reproducibility may
QUESTIONS????
Textile Test Products 2002
Textile Test Products 2002
Evaluation

We don’t know if the
test is right if the
answer isn’t understood
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Gray Scale
Designed for visual evaluation
of color change or staining.
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Gray Scale
 AATCC
Evaluation Procedure 1
Gray Scale for Color Change
Describes the scale and use for visual color
evaluation
Defines Step 4 to be 1.7 ± 0.3 E Color Units
Based on CIE 1976 L*a*b* color scale
E = [(L*)2 + (a*)2 + (b*)2 ]½
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Gray Scale

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 7 Instrumental
Assessment of the Change in Color of a Test
Specimen
States in scope to be an “alternative” to Evaluation
Procedure 1
Defines Step 4 of Gray Scale to be  1.25 and <2.10
Based on EF which is used to represent the special
gray scale color difference and separate this E
from others in normal use.
EF = [(L*)2 + (CF)2 + (HF)2 ]½
Textile Test Products 2002
Color Evaluation of Textiles
 AATCC
Evaluation Procedure 1
Gray Scale for Color Change
 AATCC
Evaluation Procedure 2
Gray Scale for Staining
 AATCC
Evaluation Procedure 6
Instrumental Color Measurement
 AATCC
Evaluation Procedure 7
Instrumental Assessment of the Change in Color of
a Test Specimen
Textile Test Products 2002
Color Evaluation - Gray Scale
 Definition
of a Gray Scale (from AATCC)
A scale consisting of pairs of standard gray chips,
the pairs representing progressive differences
in color or contrast corresponding to numerical
colorfastness grades.
Rating scale from 5 (no change)
to 1(most change)
Textile Test Products 2002
Color Evaluation - Gray Scale
 Important
factors to consider when
performing visual color evaluation:
Light Quality (Spectral Power Distribution)
Light Quantity
Viewing Angle
Reporting color change quantitatively and
qualitatively
Experience of observer
Textile Test Products 2002
Color Evaluation - Gray Scale
 Light
Quality (Spectral Power Distribution)
Illuminant D75 - Overcast northern sky
Illuminant D65 - Average daylight
Illuminant D50 - Color photography applications
Illuminant A - Home/business incandescent
Illuminant F2 - “Cool white” fluorescent
Textile Test Products 2002
Color Evaluation - Gray Scale
 Light
Quantity
AATCC Procedure 1 - Requires at least 538 lux (50
lumens/ft2 or footcandles)
ASTM D1729
• 1080 to 1340 lux (critical evaluation)
• 810 to 1880 lux (general evaluation)
 Large
variations in output occur depending on
the distance from the light source.
Textile Test Products 2002
Color Evaluation - Gray Scale
 Viewing
Angle and Conditions
Incident light upon the surface - 45° ± 5°
Observer viewing angle - 90° ± 5°
Observer line
of sight
Light Source
Sample plane
90°
45°
Textile Test Products 2002
Color Evaluation - Gray Scale
 Other
factors:
Light source should be semi-directional to view
specimen texture
Surrounding area should be neutral in color
Gloss of surrounding area should be low
Gray scale and lighting apparatus should be
checked and maintained frequently
Textile Test Products 2002
Color Evaluation - Gray Scale
 Reporting
Change in lightness - Numerical grade
Change in hue - Bluer, yellower, redder, etc.
Change in chroma - Change in saturation of color
 Metamerism
- color match under a specified
light source but differing spectral curves
Textile Test Products 2002
Color Evaluation - Gray Scale
Experience and training for gray scale
evaluation is extremely important because of
rating subjectivity
ASTM D1499 identifies several tests for color
change acuity:
Color Blindness Test
(Ishihara)
Color Rule Test
Farnsworth-Munsell 100
Hue Test
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Triangle Test
HVC (Hue, Value, and
Chroma) Color Vision Skill
Test
Staining Evaluation - Gray
Scale
 Same
basic evaluation techniques and
parameters
 Compared to “gray” scale using a nominally
white chip as the comparison
Note: The amount of color difference, based on Table I of
Procedure 1 and 2, is different for each scale.
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Color Evaluation Tools
 Atlas
Equipment
Color-Chex
TLL 600/1200 Total Daylight System
Variolux
 Other
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manufacturers
Color-Chex™
 Used
in several
industries other
than textiles
 All specified light
sources
 Designed to meet
specific viewing
conditions
• Fits on
desktop
Textile Test Products 2002
Variolux
 Used
in several
industries other than
textiles
 Large viewing area
 Large opening for
large samples
 Light sources have
separate hour
counter
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TLL 600/1200 Total Daylight System
 Used
in office or
laboratory
environments
 Overhead lighting
system
 Illuminant D65 light
source
 Produces controlled
reproducible systems
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Color Evaluation - Instrumental
 Geometry
Diffuse (sphere) or 0/45
 Illuminant
Same light sources available as visual methods
 Color
Scale
1976 CIE L* a* b*
Calculating and reporting color change
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Color Evaluation
Although instrumental color evaluation provides
more repeatable, precise data, it is usually the
visual color evaluation that is used as the
determining factor whether a material “passes
or fails” any given colorfastness test.
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Multifiber Test Fabrics
 Used
to determine staining effects (as a result
of tests) on several types of common fabric
 Referenced
in laundering, perspiration, and
other test methods
 Typical
use is to sew test material onto
Multifiber
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Multifiber Test Fabrics

Multifiber No. 1 and FB contain bands of
acetate, cotton, nylon, silk, viscose rayon,
and wool (0.8 cm wide bands)

Multifiber No. 10, 10A, FA, and FAA contain
bands of acetate, cotton, nylon, polyester,
acrylic, and wool
Textile Test Products 2002
QUESTIONS????
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Textile Testing Elements

Lightfastness

Washfastness

Color Transfer
 Surface Appearance

Flammability
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Textile Testing Elements

Lightfastness
“The property of a material, usually an assigned
number, depicting a ranked change in its color
characteristics as a result of exposure of the material
to sunlight or an artificial light source.”
Loss of color (Fading)
Fiber degradation
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Textile Testing Elements
 Washfastness
“The property of a material, usually an assigned number,
depicting a ranked change in its color characteristics as a
result of washing or laundering processes.”
Color Transfer
Shrinkage
Fiber degradation
Loss of Color (Fading)
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Textile Testing Elements
 Color
Transfer - Rubbing & Heat
Crocking
Perspiration
Hot Pressing
 Surface
Appearance
Pilling
Edge and Surface Abrasion
Fabric Streaking
Color Appearance under Light
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Textile Testing Elements
 Flammability
Ignition
Flame Spread
Heat Release (before flashover)
Smoke, Toxicity (wall coverings, upholstery, etc.)
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Flammability Testing
 Common
definition:
Flammability is those characteristics of a
material that pertain to its relative ease to
ignite and relative ability to sustain
combustion.
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Flammability Testing
 Governed
by Consumer Product Safety
Commission (CPSC)
Apparel:
Children’s
Sleepwear:
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16 CFR Part 1610
16 CFR Parts 1615
and 1616
AFC 45 Flame Chamber
 Used
for apparel textiles
• Plain surfaces
• Raised fiber surfaces
 Also
meets ASTM
D 1230
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AFC 45 Flame Chamber
 Specimen
positioned at
45º angle
1
second flame
impingement
 Test
stops when stop
cord breaks or specimen
self-extinguishes
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AFC 45 Flame Chamber
 Brushing
device for raised
fiber surfaces
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VFC Vertical Flame Chamber
 Specimens
suspended
vertically
 Flame
applied for 12
seconds
 Char
length measured
• VFC with Children’s
Sleepwear Burner
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VFC Vertical Flame Chamber
 For
testing children’s
sleepwear
 Also used for other
textiles, camping
tentage, foam
 Also meets ASTM
D 6413 and California
TB-117
Textile Test Products 2002
• VFC with ASTM
burner
QUESTIONS????
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Textile Test Products 2002