Oleon
: A NATURAL CHEMISTRY
Personal Care Overview
Oil cake
Biotechnologies
Seeds
Pesticides
Other services
for agriculture
Animal health
and breeding
Breeders
Animal nutrition
Growers
Collect of oilseeds
and protein rich seeds
Crushing
Food
Oils
Renewable
energies
Growers and breeders
Oilseeds division
Food and animal sector division
Other Agricultural industries with Sofiprotéol concern
Renewable
chemicals
Transformation
and animal
productions
1.
Oleon Company
2.
Product Overview
3.
HLB
4.
Emulsifiers
5.
Isostearic Esters
6.
Formulations
Oleon
is a leading company in Europe for
the production of chemicals based on Natural
Oils.
Oleon is a subsidiary of the Sofiproteol group, Europe’s
reference for vegetable oil with activities in food, feed,
biofuels and oleochemistry.
Oleon has production sites in
-
Belgium (Ertvelde and Oelegem)
Germany (Emmerich)
France (Compiègne)
Norway (Sandefjord)
In 2009 Oleon started Producing natural esters in Malaysia
(Port Klang)
Raw Materials
1.
Oleon Company
2.
Product overview
3.
HLB
4.
Emulsifiers
5.
Isostearic Esters
6.
Formulations
Rapeseed, Sunflower, Palm, Coconut, Soya, PKO, Linseed, Castor…
1.
Oleon Company
2.
Product Overview
3.
HLB
4.
Emulsifiers
5.
Isostearic Esters
6.
Formulations
Oleochemicals are esters, fatty acids, glycerol..
Applications
Soap, detergents, Personal Care, Lubricants, Food, …
1.
W/O Properties
2.
Product Overview
3.
HLB
4.
Emulsifiers
5.
Isostearic Esters
5.
Formulations
•Fatty acids (Radiacid)
•Glycerine, Propylene Glycol
•Radia esters based on PEG,(Poly)glycerol,
fatty acids, fatty alcohols, sorbitol, …
•Emulsifiers
•Emollients
•Stabilizers
•Opacifying
•Bodying agents
•…
Polyols
Radia Esters building blocks
Fatty alcohols
PEG
Fatty Acids
1.
W/O Properties
1.
Product Overview
3.
HLB
4.
Emulsifiers
5.
Isostearic Esters
5.
Formulations
•HLB was invented 60 years ago by William C.
Griffin
•The letters HLB stand for Hydrophilic Lipophilic
Balance
Hydrophilic head
Lipophilic tail
•It was intended as a large scale road map to
good emulsification performance.
•It was invented for use with NONIONIC surfactants in
particular.
1.
Oleon Company
2.
Product overview
3.
HLB
4.
Emulsifiers
5.
Isostearic Esters
6.
Formulations
•
mixing unlike oils together
–use surfactants with HLB’s of 1 to 3
•
making water-in-oil emulsions
–use surfactants with HLB’s of 4 to 6
•
wetting powders into oils
–use surfactants with HLB’s of 7 to 9
•
making self emulsifying oils
–use surfactants with HLB’s of 7 to 10
•
making oil-in-water emulsions
–use surfactant blends with HLB’s of 8 to 16
•
making detergent solutions
–use surfactants with HLB’s of 13 to 15
•
for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
–use surfactant blends with HLB’s of 13 to 18
R7908: Glyceryl Monolaurate 90%
2.
Oleon Company
2.
Product Overview •
3.
HLB
4.
Emulsifiers
5.
Isostearic Esters
6.
Formulations
Our technology has lead to a monoglyceride %> 90%.
•
(Co)Emulsifier with HLB of ± 5.0 and super emollient with
enhanced skin feel.
•
Antibacterial properties; good performance on yeasts,moulds
and gram +. Addition of a good chelant (EDTA) can increase
the performance on gram -.
•
Viscosity increasing in surfactant systems as hydrophobic
thickener where combinations with eg CAPB are made.
•
Potential of penetration enhancer of active ingredients.
1.
Oleon Company
2.
Product Overview
Antibacterial Properties of GML
10000
100
10
ti
li
s
.U
C
N
ig
er
A
.
is
ae
ev
Ce
r
S
S
.C
er
e
.A
u
re
vi
sa
e
us
1
S
Formulations
s
6.
GML
Butyl Paraben
Sorbic Acid
eu
Isostearic Esters
er
5.
1000
B
.C
Emulsifiers
ti
lli
s
4.
B
.s
ub
HLB
MIC (µg/ml)
3.
Radiamuls 2932
1.
W/O Properties
1.
Product Overview
3.
HLB
4.
Emulsifiers
5.
Isostearic Esters
6.
Formulations
PEG free & solid O/W emulsifier
Self emulsifying
•HLB of 10-12
•INCI: GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE
•Gives the skin a soft and smooth appearance
• Synergy with Radia 7145 (Sorbitan Stearate)
•Formation of gel network in water phase
•The natural skin moisture barrier is mimicked
•Improved moisturizing performance of O/W emulsion
•Enhanced stability of emulsion
•Skin pleasant rheological profile
Radiamuls 2990
1.
Oleon Company
2.
Product overview
3.
HLB
4.
Emulsifiers
5.
Isostearic Esters
6.
Formulations
Anionic,PEG free & solid O/W emulsifier
Multi functional
• HLB of 16.
•INCI: Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate
• Skin conditioning and moisturizing
• white fluffy powder
• light emulsions rich in water
•Can also act as a foam booster in cleansing formulations
1.
Oleon Company
2.
Product overview
3.
HLB
Saturated Products
No crystallization
4.
Emulsifiers
5.
Isostearic Esters
Liquid products
6.
Formulations
Branched products
Stability, no antioxydant needed
Lower melting point compared
to straight-chain analogues
Cold emulsion process & easy to handle
Important for heat sensitive products
included in high demanding formulations
Non greasy afterfeel, lipid film more substantive,
Soft on the skin and glossy aprearance,
Excellent emolliency
Main products derived from oleic acid can be replaced
by the corresponding isostearic derivatives without loss of performance.
2.
Oleon Company
2.
Product Overview
3.
HLB
4.
Emulsifiers
5.
Isostearic Esters
6.
Formulations
Product Range (INCI)
Radia
•Isostearic Acid
908 / 909
•Neopentylglycol Diisostearate
7687
•Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
7179
•Triisostearin
7373
•Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate
7380
•Isopropyl Isostearate
7739
•Sorbitan isostearate
7758
Radia 7373
Good substantive, rich and non tacky feel emollient
1.
Oleon Company
2.
Product Overview
3.
HLB
4.
Emulsifiers
5.
Isostearic Esters
•INCI: Triisostearin
6.
Formulations
•Functions as dispersant & adhesion
promotor of pigments. As solubilizer for
active ingredients.
Properties and Benefits
•Can help modifying melting points!
•Special interest combined with light
emollient for long lasting spreadability (no
migration).
•Comparable to some natural oils but easier
to emulsify.
Applications
•Lipsticks (long
lasting)
•Colour cosmetics
Radia 7179
1.
W/O Properties
2.
Product Overview
3.
HLB
Good substantive and rich emollient
Properties and Benefits
Applications
4.
Emulsifiers
5.
Isostearic Esters
•INCI: Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
•Sun care
6.
Formulations
•Functions as emollient, dispersant & water
repellent.
•Liquid foundations
•Provides high gloss film, resists rub off,
reduces drag on application.
•Substantive and cushion feel.
•Good alternative to castor oil.
•lipsticks
•high solid make up
Radia 7380
Good lubricating and rich film forming emollient
1.
Oleon Company
2.
Product Overview
3.
HLB
4.
Emulsifiers
5.
Isostearic Esters
•INCI: Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate
6.
Formulations
•Functions as dispersant for solid
ingredients, as potential SPF booster.
Properties and Benefits
•Delivers shine and plasticizer properties in
hair care.
•Non tacky sensorial properties.
•Improves skin elasticity.
•Mineral oil replacement
Applications
•general skin & hair
care
•depilatory creams,
•colour cosmetics,
•sun and baby care,
•shaving
formulations
Radia 7687
1.
W/O Properties
2.
Product Overview
3.
HLB
Silky and good spreading emollient
Properties and Benefits
Applications
4.
Emulsifiers
5.
Isostearic Esters
•INCI: Neopentyl Glycol Diisostearate
•Sun care
6.
Formulations
•Skin Conditioning
•Protective creams
•Silky and rich skin feel
•Shaving creams
Radia 7739
1.
W/O Properties
2.
Product Overview
3.
HLB
Light feel emollient with fast absorbtion and excellent spreadability
Properties and Benefits
4.
Emulsifiers
5.
Isostearic Esters
•INCI: Isopropyl Isostearate
6.
Formulations
•Functions as overall reducer of tackiness,
effective solvent and disperser.
•High gloss & low occlusive.
•Fast absorption, imperceptible afterfeel on
the skin(Better than IPM), low amount of
residue.
Applications
•Unique ingredient
for many cosmetic
preparations
•Face and eyes
make up
Spreadability
Isopropyl Palmitate
5
Trimethylolpropane
Triisostearate
4
3
Isostearic Acid
2
1
0
Pentaerythrityl
Tetraisostearate
Neopentylglycol Diisostearate
Triisostearin
Isopropyl Isostearate
Smoothness
Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate
Isopropyl Palmitate
5
4
3
2
1
0
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Neopentylglycol Diisostearate
Isostearic Acid
Triisostearin
Isopropyl Isostearate
Absorption speed
Isopropyl Palmitate
5
4
Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate
3
2
Isostearic Acid
1
0
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Nepentylglycol Diisostearate
Triisostearin
Isopropyl Isostearate
Tackiness
Isopropyl Palmitate
5
4
Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate
3
Isostearic Acid
2
1
0
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Neopentylglycol Diisostearate
Triisostearin
Isopropyl Isostearate
Radia 7887
Cold Water-in-oil emulsifier
INCI:Polyglycerol-3 Polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate
HLB 4,2 & Single Emulsifier
Liquid & EO Free & Palm Free
Amber Coloured
1.
W/O Properties
2.
W/O Applications
3.
Famous Examples
4.
R7887
5.
Formulations
1. W/O Properties
•Skin protection
•Long lasting moisturisation
•Resemblance to the natural skin protective barrier
•Improved spreading and penetration of active ingredients
•Reduced preservative concentration
1.
W/O Properties
2.
W/O Applications
3.
Famous Examples
4.
R7887
5.
Formulations
2. W/O Applications
•Sun Screen milks, lotions and creams
•Night creams
•Creams & lotions for dry and sensitive skin
•Skin protective baby creams
•Massage milks
1.
W/O Properties
2.
W/O Applications
3.
Famous examples
4.
R7887
5.
Formulations
4. R7887..
•...is liquid and allows cold production = reduced cost!
•...is based on natural raw materials & is PEG free.
•...has no need for co-emulsifier  single emulsifier
•…is fit for high and low internal face
•...provides emulsions with a glossy appearance
•…functions at low levels (≥1%)
1.
W/O Properties
2.
W/O Applications
3.
Famous examples
4.
R7887
•Solid emulsifier requires temperature (=cost) input.
T (°C)
1
2
3
Hot Process
a. Cold Process
b. Emollients
c. Single Emulsifier
5.
Formulations
+/- 80
4
= Cost
20
Homogenize
5
1.
W/O Properties
2.
W/O Applications
3.
Famous examples
4.
R7887
•R7887 doesn’t require heating = possible cost reduction!
T(C°)
a. Cold Process
b. Emollients
c. Single Emulsifier
5.
1
2
3
4
Homogenize
Formulations
20
5
1.
W/O Properties
2.
W/O Applications
3.
Famous examples
•Potential cost reduction thanks to cold proces.
Hot Proces vs Cold Proces
Weighing and mixing
Minutes
Weighing mixing
20
4.
5.
R7887
Heating
Homogenisation
a. Cold Process
b. Emollients
C. Single Emulsifier
Homogenisation
Addition of other raw
materials
Cooling & agitation
Filling
Time loss during cooling
/
Addition of other raw
materials
/
Cooling to room
tempurature
/
Filling
/
Formulations
40
60
80
100
120
140
160
1.
W/O Properties
2.
W/O Applications
3.
Famous examples
4.
R7887
a.
Cold Process
b. Emollients
c. Single Emulsifier
5.
Formulations
b. Emollients influence formulation.
• % water
=> Viscosity Formulation
• Viscosity emollients
• Homogenisation
=> Viscosity Formulation
=> Stability (& Viscosity) Formulation
1.
W/O Properties
2.
W/O Applications
3.
Famous examples
4.
R7887
a. Cold Process
b. Emollients
c. Single Emulsifier
5.
c.
Single Emulsifier.: Test protocol
Test formulation W/O
Oilphase
Oil
Emulsifier
10 or 18 or 30
1 or 3.5
Waterphase
Formulations
Glycerol
MgSO4.7H2O
Preservative
Water
4
0,7
q.s.
to 100%
Low external phase = 10%
High external phase = 30%
Low surfactant = 1%
High surfactant = 3.5%
Centrifuge
stability
(3x15min @
4000rpm)
Temperature
stability
1week @ 50°C
2months@ 40°C
3 months@ RT
Viscosity
stability ( mPas)
Brookfield 10rpm,
1 minute, LVT
spindle
After 1 day
After 3 months
appearance
Visual aspect
1.
W/O Properties
2.
W/O Applications
3.
Famous examples
4.
R7887
a. Cold Process
b. Emollients
c. Single Emulsifier
5.
Formulations
c.
Single Emulsifier.: Conclusions
•1% emulsifier is stable for MCT and paraffin oils (18%).
• 3,5% emulsfier is stable for MCT, sunflower oil and paraffin
oils. Separate esters are being tested.
•Highest viscosity and synergy is obtained by using sunflower
oil.
•Internal phases till 82% were achieved.
5. Formulations
Low Cost W/O protective cream
HP11-22-2
•Phase
•Ingredient
•INCI
•A
•Radia 7887
•Polyglycerol-3 Polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate
•3.6
•Radia 7373
•Triisostearin
•0.5
•Radia 7363
•Triolein (= Sunflower oil)
•18
•Glycerin 4810
•Glycerin
•water
•Aqua
•B
•C
•% w/w
•4
•To 100
•Mg.SO4.7H2O
•0.8
•preservative
•0.7
Viscosity : 121000 mPa.s (Brookfield RV, spindle 7, rpm 10, 1 min.)
Assessment: Rich protective cream, high viscosity, film forming , good spreading
5. Formulations
W/O soft body cream/Lotion
HP03-54-3
•Phase
•Ingredient
•INCI
•A
•Radia 7887
•Polyglycerol-3 Polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate
•4
•Radia 7208
•Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
•2
•Radia 7732
•Isopropyl Palmitate
•B
•C
•% w/w
•11
•Sweet almond oil
•2
•Avocado oil
•2
•Glycerin 4810
•Glycerin
•water
•Aqua
•3
•To 100
•Mg.SO4.7H2O
•0.5
•preservative
•0.7
•Viscosity ,35000 mPa.s (Brookfield RV, spindle 6, rpm 10, 1 min.)
•Assessment: Rich day lotion, nice, soft skinfeel, smooth afterfeel , good spreading
5. Formulations
Low Cost Protective baby cream
•Phase
•Ingredient
•INCI
•A
•Radia 7887
•Polyglycerol-3 Polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate
HP11-12-1
•Paraffin Oil
•B
•C
•% w/w
•3,6
•15
•Radia 7373
•Triisostearin
•0,5
•Radia 7500
•Cetyl Palmitate
•2
•Glycerin 4810
•Glycerin
•3
•water
•Aqua
•To 100
•Mg.SO4.7H2O
•0.5
•preservative
•0.7
•ZnO
•10
•Viscosity ,35000 mPa.s (Brookfield RV, spindle 6, rpm 10, 1 min.)
•Assessment: Rich day lotion, nice, soft skinfeel, smooth afterfeel , good spreading
Oleon
: A NATURAL CHEMISTRY
Isoamyl Esters
Isoamyl Esters
Biofermentation
Isoamyl Alcohol
+
Vegetable
Fatty Acids
=
Isoamyl Ester
Isoamyl esters are the natural alternative to high
performance dispersing products.
Isoamyl Esters
 Fully natural : originates from fusel oils coming from the bio fermentation of sugar beets
 Isoamyl alcohol = isobutyl carbinol =isopentyl alcohol
 Vegetable fatty acids : C8/C10, C12, C14, C16, C18 ,C16C18, cocoate, oleate
 Oleon isoamyl esters contain only natural building blocks.
Radia 7750: Isoamyl Laurate
Very good solvating power
Ability to disperse pigments
Excellent skin compatibility
Low viscosity & Quick absorbing
Excellent sensorial profile
Sunscreen products & UV filters
Colour cosmetics and skin care.
Baby care and cleansing formulations
Improved spreadability.
Silicone like sensorial profile
R7750 Sensorial Properties
During rubbing
After rubbing
absorbence
shiny
60
spreading
40
20
moisture
0
oily
absorbence
thickness
moisture
50
40
30
20
10
0
silky
sticky
Greasy
sticky
IPM
Dimethicone
R7750
residue
Visual evaluation of wetting properties
10 gr
TiO2 +
C12-C15
A. B.
Castor Oil
IA Laurate
IA Myristate
IA Palmitate
IA Oleate
12 ml
5
13 ml
4
5
5
14 ml
2
5
5
15 ml
4
4
3
4
4
4
2
3
4
4
4
18 ml
3
4
3
3
19 ml
3
4
2
2
16 ml
17 ml
20 ml
5
5
4
3
3
21 ml
3
3
22 ml
3
2
3
2
23 ml
24 ml
2
25 ml
26 ml
1
2
1
1
smooth
dispersion
2
Glossy
dispersion
slighly
Granular
3
Granular
cream
4
Granular
paste
5
Adhesive
paste
4
1
2
1
1
2
1
Isoamyl esters disperse the same dosage of pigment TiO2 with a small amount of ester.
Analytical evaluation of wetting properties
Visually identified as smooth and viscous dispersion
Isoamyl esters provide a steady viscosity with increasing TiO2 concentration. This stability
translates into easier handling for end formulations.
R7750 Application Info
 Imparts a dry lubricating feel in the presence of large amounts of mineral
oil or vegetable oils; i.e., “de-oils” mineral oil and “de-greases”
vegetable oils.
 Is a short chain ester which acts as a superior solubilizer of lipophilic
cosmetic raw materials as eg sunscreen agents.
 Provides high spreading and quick penetration.
 Acts as an anti-tack agent.
 Acts as a wetting agent and auxiliary suspending agent for waterinsoluble
powdered products.
 First choice emollient in natural and conventional cosmetic frame formales
Formulation Data
 Usage level: 4-80%. Often used as primary oil.
 Higher usage levels 30-80% in all kind of body oils & bath oils.
 5-20% in both O/W and W/O emulsion creams.
 Wet wipes O/W: 0.5-2 %
 Natural hair care products: 1-5%