This first section is reprinted from the AFMLS News Letter September 2006It is still one of the
bet basic safety articles around for beginning collectors. Following the illustrated safety article
are more safety information culled from AMFLS newsletters over the years. Please read the
first article closely and follow the suggestions if you are a first time collector and intend on
going on field trips.
Safety Tips from the AFMS
The following articles are reprints of safety articles that have appeared in past issues of the AFMS
newsletters. The author of each article is included with the individual artlicles.
Contents:
Ground fault interrupters
Angle of repose
Sun protection
General Safety
Skin cancer
Flying objects
Sun stroke/sun exhaustion
Convoy
Bugs and varmints
Laboratory/shop
Taint So
"Safety" glasses
First aid kit
Spiders
Copyright Notice
Some Other AFMS Newsletter Articles
Jun 1997 - Snakes
Oct 1997 - Brrrr!!!!!, Part II
Dec 1997 - Rotary Slingshots
Feb 1998 - Don't Stop on Empty
Apr 1998 - Tote That Rock, Lift That Tool bag
May 1998 - Colorful And Deadly
Feb 1998 - It's Just Dust, Isn't It, Part I
Sep 1998 - It's Just Dust, Isn't It, Part II
Oct 1998 - It's Just Dust, Isn't It, Part III
Apr 1999 - Danger!! - Sunshine Coming!!
May 1999 - Are You Ready for Trouble?
Sep 1999 - Hazards From Organic Chemicals
Oct 1999 - Sawing Away - Safety?
Dec 1999 - Is This Stuff Safe?
Mar 2000 - Now What Do I Do?
Apr 2000 - Zapped In Silence
Jun 2000 - Hammer Safety
Sep 2000 - That Was Stupid!!
Sep 2000 - Honk, Honk (Convoy Safety)
Oct 2000 - Go It Alone?
Dec 2000 - Safety First (Rotating Machinery)
Jan 2001 - Help Me! (First Aid Kits)
Feb 2001 - Shop Safety 101
Mar 2001 - Help! And How to Say It
Apr 2001 - Safety - Safety - Safety
May 2001 - Ouch, That’s My Foot! (Safety Shoes)
Jun 2001 - It is the Dawning of the Age of - Sunshine
Sep 2001 - Digging Away
Oct 2001 - Just a Little Dust
Nov 2001 - A Bolt Out of the Blue (Lightning)
Dec 2001 - A Glean In Your Eye
Feb 2002 - What's All This Tire Stuff?
Apr 2002 - Crackle or Click? (Electricity)
May 2002 - Crying Wolf (Warnings)
Oct 2002 - Are You Ready For Some Safety? (Club Safety Chair)
Mar 2003 - Safety First (Hammer Safety)
May 2003 - Safety (Safety in general)
Jun 2003 - Safety by Bill Buckner (Safety issues in our shops)
Sep 2003 - Safety on the Road
Other Sites Safety Links
Rock Hound Collection Safety
Rock hound’s Safety Area
Ground fault interrupters
A SHOCKING EXPERIENCE?
Imagine that you are working away in the shop. As usual around lapidary work, there’s a little water on
the floor. As usual, you pay little attention. You reach over to turn the switch on your equipment. ZAP!
Would you rather
1. Your family learned CPR so that they might rescue you when you are electrocuted? OR
2. You felt a short tingle, the electricity turned off, and you went to work to find and repair your
machine’s electrical short?
One doesn’t have to be a genius to know you’d prefer number 2. But, have you prepared so that
number 2 is assured. If not, read on.
There is a device called a ground fault interrupter (GFI). If answer number 2. appeals to you, you should
learn about them and get some installed. What does the GFI do for you? GFIs detect the flow of current
when something (perhaps you) in the circuit is grounded and, in a millisecond, turn off the current. If
you are in the grounding circuit, it happens so fast that it will be over before you realized that you were
in the circuit. Your life is spared. No sparks fly. No fire starts. Just, suddenly, the electricity is off.
GFI’s come in a couple of forms. One is as a unit to fit into your master electrical panel board. It will
protect all the electrical equipment plugged in that circuit. The other is as a replacement in your wall
plug-in box. It protects everything plugged into that one box. Neither is expensive ($12 to $25). But,
most of us don’t want to (and shouldn’t) fool around with the back of our master panel board, So, it is
best to have an electrician install GFI’s there. You can install one in the wall box yourself IF you know
what you are doing. If you don’t, call an electrician for that, too. The saddest feeling known is to say to
yourself “If I had only done that first." Get your GFI’s and install them now! Side thought - It is an
excellent idea to put these on any circuit near a water faucet - especially around the bathroom, the
kitchen, and the laundry.
by Mel Albright - AFMS Safety Chairman
Angle of repose
REPOSING EASILY
Whenever we rock hounds go on a field trip, we are likely to be around a creek bed, a road cut, a quarry,
a steep bank, or a spoils pile. If so, we should all remember that there is something called the angle of
repose.
No, I'm not talking about how flat you should be when you lie down to rest. The angle of repose is a civil
engineering term. It is a fact that a pile of anything - sand, rocks, marbles, hay, or whatever - has the
property that the slope of the side of the pile determines whether the pile slides down or not. If the
slope is over the angle of repose, it WILL slide - sooner or later. If it less than the angle of repose, it will
sit there forever without sliding. The angle depends on the materials in the pile and on their sizes, so
there is no general rule as to what angle is safe. Therefore, most road cuts and fills are slightly less steep
than the angle of repose.
If you stand below or try to climb a slope that is too steep for the material it is made of, there is a very
good chance that the top will come down on you. It gets more complicated. Consider what happens
when you step into the side of a slope. Your foot forms a hollow. This means the material just above and
just below your footprint is at too steep an angle. So, it slides down. As it goes, it continuously forms a
slope that is too steep, so the material slides and slides and forms a major slump. If you are trying to ride
it or if you are below it, that is not good.
When you dig or extract a sample from a pile or a cliff or a quarry wall, the same thing happens. If you
dig a tunnel, you have definitely formed a highly unstable slope and the slightest jar may bring it all
down on you. That's why mines have shoring. Several children are killed each year because of this. I'm
sure you have heard of it.
So, when hunting rocks, test the slope you're on or below for stability before getting into a position
where you might get hurt or buried. And, always keep an eye on any rock hound that is above you. They
might start something that hurts you!
by Mel Albright - AFMS Safety Chairman
Sun protection
DANGER - SUNSHINE
One of the fastest increasing diseases today is skin cancer. It is caused by too mush sunshine. It does not
appear right after you get too much sun, though. It will appear 10, 20, 30, or more years later. So, the
only sure protection is to start now to develop good habits to avoid sun damage to your skin. Then, keep
on being careful.
The basic cause of damage from the sun is through ultraviolet radiation. Recent research has said that
one serious sunburn as a child can lead to cancer. Recent research reports that sunscreen does not
protect against skin melanomas - the deadliest cancer. In my area, our TV weathermen report the UV
exposure factor. They include the safe exposure time. In summer, it typically is something like 8 minutes
for fair skin people, 14 for medium skin people, and 22 for dark skin people.
The Skin Cancer Foundation recommends the following as ways to prevent and control skin damage
from the sun. Stay out of the sun during the most dangerous times - 10 AM to 2 PM (11 AM to 3 PM
daylight time). Wear a hat, a long sleeve shirt, and long pants (tight-knit cloth) when in the sun. Apply
sunscreen before going out and re-apply every 2 hours or after swimming while outside. Use at least a
15 SPF sunscreen on all exposed skin (the 15 means it takes 15 times as long to reach the same sun
exposure as with no sunscreen). The higher the altitude, the more UV comes to you and the more
sunscreen is needed. Cloudy days do not protect you - UV comes right through clouds. If you work
outside, use sunscreen daily. A tan does NOT protect you. Some medicines, drugs, cosmetics and birth
control pills make you more sensitive to sun damage. If you develop and allergy to one sunscreen,
change to another one. Watch out for reflective surfaces - sand, snow, water (The Great Salt Plains).
Staying in the shade doesn’t help around these. Stay out of tanning parlors. Keep infants out of the sun.
Start using sunscreen on children when they are 6 months old. Teach your children sun protection early
and insist they follow the rules.
Sources: American Academy of Dermatology; The Skin Cancer Foundation
by Mel Albright - AFMS Safety Chairman
General Safety
SAFETY TALK? - HO HUM!
What’s your reaction when someone says there’s going to be a safety talk? If you’re like most people,
you immediately wish you were somewhere else. Is it because the people who talk about safety are
boring? Or, do you consider yourself infallible and immortal? Yes, many speakers are and no you aren’t
either. When we get bored at the sound of the word "safety", we’re not really thinking danger is a part
of the things we do.
However, we are engaged in a hobby in which there are a great number of ways to hurt yourself or be
hurt by others. So, we really should think about what we are doing and how we are doing it. We use
poisonous materials, have flammable materials, use acid and caustic materials, use fire, generate
dangerous fumes, drive in convoys, get out in the sun a lot, are often around unstable cliffs, ditches, and
the like, use tools which often release flying material, use electrical equipment around water, use rotary
tools, and more.
Do you know how to protect yourself and your friends in every one of these cases. Or, are you like many
of us? - just go ahead and never think about something going wrong? Do you own protective equipment
- like canvas and rubber gloves, eye protection, safety shoes, safety hats. If you own them, do you use
them? Face it, most of us don’t. Can you treat insect and snake bites?
May I suggest something new? How about a "Safety Minute" at each club meeting. Either have a safety
chairman or ask someone new each meeting to simply mention some one thing that people in the club
do that should require safety considerations. No one has time to get bored. Everyone is reminded that
there are ways to get hurt in following this hobby. An extra free benefit of this idea is that people will
become more safety conscious even doing things that are never mentioned in the meeting. Hey, give it a
try!
by Mel Albright - AFMS Safety Chairman
Skin cancer
DO YOU SEE SPOTS?
The next time you take a bath, stop afterwards and look over your skin all over your body. Do you see
any spots? See any rough patches of skin? See any small "bumps" of white dead skin? Any moles that
are changing or growing? Any thing else that looks unusual? If you do, it is time to see a Dermatologist.
Maybe QUICK!
Sun damage to the skin is one of the major health problems today. But, it is not caused by what you
have done lately. It depends on you sun exposure 10, 20, 30, or even 40 years ago.
By far, the most serious problem you might see is melanoma cancer. This cancer spreads rapidly and is
deadly. The four things that might indicate melanoma are: A varied color growth that is asymmetric, has
irregular edges is something to worry about. If it is larger than 6 mm in diameter, it is really dangerous.
This includes long time moles that change size, color, or shape. Run! do not walk, to the doctor if you
see something that might be this.
Next in importance are basal cell carcinoma and squamous cell carcinoma. Although not as deadly as
melanoma, these can be serious if not treated. Any of these 5 things might indicate that these are
present. 1. An open sore that bleeds, crusts, or oozes for more than 3 weeks. 2. A reddish patch. It may
sometimes be crusty. It may itch or hurt. 3. A smooth growth with a rolled border with an indentation in
the middle. 4. A shinny bump or nodule which is pearly or translucent. They are often pink, red, or
white. Less common, they may be tan, black, or brown. They MAY BE CONFUSED with a mole. 5. A scarlike area which is white, yellow or waxy. It will be shinny and the surrounding skin is taut.
Also important are three pre-cancerous conditions. These may lead to cancer if they are untreated. Solar
or actinic keratoses occur as rough, dry, pink to tan patches on sunexposed skin. These are caused by
the ultraviolet in the sun and. Leukoplakia is a smooth, white patch which affects the mucous
membranes, primarily the lips and inside the mount. Radiodermatitus appears as a mottled area with a
decrease of skin pigment.
We’ll discuss how to limit skin damage from the sun in another article.
Sources: American Academy of Dermatology; The Skin Cancer Foundation
by Mel Albright - AFMS Safety Chairman
Flying objects
IDENTIFIED FLYING OBJECTS
You pick up a rock that looks promising. You can’t quite tell if it's any good. You want to see what’s
inside. So, you take your rock hammer or another rock and hit it to chip off a piece. ZING, a chip hits
your eye. You are now one-eyed.
That great specimen you want is partially buried in the matrix right there!. All you have to do is get it
loose without breaking it. So, you grab a chisel and a hammer and start chipping. ZING, a chip hits your
eye. You are now one-eyed.
You need to get that rock out of the ground. All it needs is a little prying. You grab a crowbar, point the
end at the crack and bang it down to force it into the ground. ZING, a chip hits your eye. You are now
one-eyed.
You want some rocks for tumbling. All you have are too big. So, you grab a big one, set it down on the
ground, take a hammer and bang away. ZING, a chip hits your eye. You are now one-eyed.
Your piece of slab is too big. It’s real time consuming to trim it with your saw. So, you grab a pair of
pliers, grab a corner, and pry to break it off. ZING, a chip hits your eye. You are now one-eyed. OR, you
score the slab with a glass cutter, line the score over a bench edge, and start tapping to break it. ZING, a
chip hits your eye. You are now one-eyed.
You’re cleaning a fossil. As you chip away to get matrix off, you lean closer and closer to see that you get
it exactly right. Suddenly your hammer slips and bounces. ZING, the hammer hits your eye. You are now
one-eyed.
You’re gluing with epoxy. You get a little hardener on your hand. You wipe the sweat off your forehead.
You get a little hardener in your eye. ZING, you are now one-eyed.
Wild? Exaggerated? Not really. It happens all too often.
Plastic safety glasses at WalMart - about $1. Plastic face shield at WalMart - about $5. Worth it? by Mel
Albright - AFMS Safety Chairman
Sun stroke/sun exhaustion
SUN SAFETY
Do you ever hunt rocks on a warm to hot day? Garden? Hike? Or something else active? Then, in much
of the United States, you’d best learn to recognize the symptoms of thing going wrong when we get too
hot.
HEAT CRAMPS are the less serious, but still dangerous result of too much heat. These are spasms of the
muscles brought on by exertion in hot weather. Many times, the calves are the first muscles affected.
What causes cramps? Intense sweating followed by drinking of salt free water. They are more likely to
occur if you’re out of shape, in poor health, tired, or have been drinking alcohol. BUT, they can occur to
anyone! To avoid cramps, take it easy in hot weather, eat salty foods or take salt tablets, or drink
athletic drinks that have salt in them. If cramps occur, stop, get in a cool place and rest, stretch and
message the cramped muscle. Drink something salty.
HEAT EXHAUSTION occurs when you run out of body salt and/or water. Symptoms are fatigue,
lightheadedness, thirst, maybe cramps, spasms, nausea and/or vomiting. Mental ability will be normal.
Low grade fever (99 to 102F), a rapid pulse, and dehydration are often present.
In HEAT STROKE, the most serious effect, the individual will have a high fever (104 to 106F). There will
be mental confusion, unusual behavior, convulsions, or coma. The blood pressure may be dangerously
low from shock.
IMMEDIATE CARE for heat exhaustion or heat stroke includes moving the individual to air-conditioning,
lying on their back, with a fan if available. Remove or loosen tight clothing, place cool compresses on
forehead, neck, and under arms. You may sprinkle water on them, but do not put them into a tub or
swimming pool. If they vomit, give them nothing by mouth. Otherwise cold, salt-containing liquids will
help. Use 4 teaspoon salt in 1 quart water and give them 4 oz. every 15 minutes. If symptoms persist, or
if they are unconscious, transport immediately to a hospital.
Remember, some people tolerate heat better than others. Even though you feel fine, if any of the above
symptoms starts, act immediately. Continuing on and insisting "I’m O.K." or "I’ll be O.K. in a minute."is
NOT the way to go. It can only make things worse.
Reference: COMPUSERVE FIRST AID SECTION
Convoy
FOLLOW ME!!!
by Mel Albright, AFMS Safety Chair
For many rockhound clubs, the field trip season is upon us. For others, it is fast approaching. So, now is
an appropriate time to think about such trips.
In the classical fashion, everyone meets at 7:30 AM at McDonalds or some such arrangement. Then, the
leader says "Let’s go!" - "Everyone follow me.", jumps into his vehicle and goes driving off down the
road. Everyone else falls in behind and each driver careful tries to memorize the car ahead of him so he
won’t get lost. And - AWAY THEY GO!
What are the problems with this?
First, let’s consider the dynamics of the "follow the leader" approach. The lead driver takes off, and,
usually drives at the speed limit or a little slower. The next car can’t exactly match his speed, so they get
close and slow down, then get farther away, and speed up. The next car’s speed is even more erratic. By
the time you get to "tail-end Charlie", he’s going anywhere from 20 miles under the speed limit to 20
over just trying not to be left.
Then, throw in a stop sign or traffic light. Some cars go through, there’s a pause for traffic, then a few
more go, then there’s another pause, and so on. After a few cycles, the cars have to speed like crazy to
re-find those that went ahead.
During all this, the driver is concentrating on the convoy - not on traffic. So, the chances of an accident
go way up. Sometimes, less daring drivers refuse to speed and they and many behind are lost and miss
the field trip.
SOOOO! For safety, several things need to be done. First, before starting, every driver should get
detailed directions or a map of where they are going. Then no one is afraid of losing out. This way, no
driver is afraid of being left behind, so they can concentrate on traffic and road conditions. Second, the
leader should drive 5-10 miles under the speed limit at as nearly a constant speed as possible to
minimize yo-yoing. Third, the convoy should pull to the side of the road and wait for everyone to catch
up any time there’s a turn, a stop sign, a town to go through, or a traffic light. Finally, it would really help
if the leader is in radio (CB) contact with a buddy who has agrees to be "tail-end Charlie". Then, if there’s
a flat or any other problem, the leader can stop and wait for things to be straightened out.
HONK! HONK! HEY, WE GOT US A CONVOY HERE!
Bugs and varments
BUGS AND VARMINTS
by Mel Albright (AFMS Safety Chair)
Whenever we go rock hunting, we should remember that we’re going into someone else’s world.
Who’s? Well, we really don’t know. It might be some snake, some bug, some plant, or, even, something
really big - like a bear. So, how do we prepare to be friendly - or at least not to make something mad?
Often, the best thing to do is simply not to go there. If there’s poison ivy or poison oak or poison sumac
around, go somewhere else. By the way, can you recognize all or any of these that thrive in your neck of
the woods? If not, best get someone to show you. Believe me, it’s better than finding out the hard way.
As a kid, I spent 2 weeks of my life in bed from poison ivy.
What about snakes? First, remember most are not poison. Second, remember that some are. Third, find
out the difference. In the United States, they state that there are only a few - rattle snakes, cottonmouth
snakes, coral snakes and copperheads. Believe it or not, the snake would rather not bite you. If they
don’t feel threatened, they’ll leave you alone. So, when in snake country, there are a few rules: Do not
walk fast; Look before putting your foot down; Don’t jump or step over stuff- logs, rocks, etc.; Don’t
reach into dark places before you look to be sure no one’s there; Don’t put your stuff on the ground
where it might provide cover for a snake. And remember, a rattle snake does NOT always rattle first!
Then there’s bugs and spiders who can be unfriendly - scorpions, black widows, fiddle-backs, and the
like. Again, a few simple rules will cover you - Don’t reach into a place before looking into it. Don’t put
one hand down to support yourself while doing something else without checking out where it’s going.
When you reach under something, you are reaching into the bug’s domain . Turn it over instead. Shake
out any shoes, clothing, bed rolls, or whatever before putting yourself into them. Never say that some
place is too tight for a bug. You’d be amazed at what a small crack a scorpion can sneak through (and
loves to do so). I got a fiddleback bite one time by sitting on my garden tractor. The spider was under
the seat! Now I look first.
Then there are the nuisance bugs - ticks, chiggers, no-see-ums, gnats, skeeters, and the like. Here, the
best way is to be prepared. Use bug repellent BEFORE venturing out. Dust your ankles with flowers of
sulfur. Don’t wear floral or sweet scents. Wear shirts with sleeves and long pants. Bees, wasps, hornets,
and bumble bees are usually highly visible. Watch for them! Remember, that hole in the ground might
be the entrance to a bumble bee nest! Also, remember that many soft drinks are attractive to them and
they can and do land on your pop can - even while you’re holding it.
Finally, consider the bigger stuff - bears, skunks, and their neighbors. Be noisy, talk and rattle, and look
ahead and they’ll be no problem. One exception - if you see ANY wild animal that doesn’t seem afraid
or, even, approaches you, try your very best to avoid them. THEY MIGHT BE RABID! If you see a
nocturnal animal wandering around in the daylight, there again is a good chance that it is rabid. In my
area, that is especially true for skunks, possums, fox, and raccoons. Check with the agricultural or
wildlife people in your area if you are not sure what wild animals might be rabid.
Laboratory/shop
THE COMPLEATE SHOPPE
Most rockhounds have a shop or a place that acts as one. Most of us have it as well equipped as we can
afford. But, how well equipped is it for safety? Perhaps the best way to understand what’s needed is to
compare our shop with an industrial chemistry laboratory.
Let’s look at lab equipment. The lab must, by law, have a suitable fire extinguisher readily available.
Most often, that means it is hanging on the wall next to the "front" door. The lab will have a safety hood
where air is drawn from the lab proper and exhausted outside and high off the ground. The lab will have
safety cans - cans that have a spring-loaded lid to keep them closed and will be made of non-sparking
material. The lab will have all-metal boxes or shelves or cabinets. The lab will have a non-skid floor with
matting if the floor is likely to get wet. The lab will have safety glasses, face shields, ground fault
electrical outlets, safety buckets, rubber and plastic gloves, safety waste cans, tongs and other tools for
moving hot materials, an eye fountain for emergencies, a nearby emergency shower, dust and filter
masks, a first aid kit, and other specific safety devices for the operations going on in the lab. AND MORE!
Well that’s something, but what does it have to do with a rockhound’s shop? Maybe nothing. Most
likely, a whole bunch. If you have any flammable liquids around, you should have them in safety cans stuff like alcohol, acetone, methyl-ethyl ketone, gasoline, kerosene. Actually, the lab will have the
absolute minimum possible inside with the rest stored outside in a fireproof metal cabinet. Safety cans
mean no spills. No spills means no fires. Other flammable stuff - glues and the like - should be stored in
tightly closed metal containers (a metal fishing tackle box). Bottles of acids should be stored in safety
buckets - they’ll contain the acids if the bottle breaks. Fuel bottles, such as acetylene or propane bottles,
are securely chained to prevent their turning over and, perhaps, breaking off the valve. (Talk about a
rocket!)
The safety hood in a lab will prevent the buildup in the lab of any flammable or toxic material in the air.
You should copy the principle in your shop. Work with ventilation. Fresh air should come first to you,
then to whatever you’re working on and then be exhausted (A floor fan hung in a window often works
well.) or blown away if you’re outside.
The personal safety stuff - gloves, masks, safety glasses, tools, ear protectors and so on are all cheap and
all available at WalMarts and most hardware stores. Spares for guests should be on hand.
The fire extinguisher and first aid kit are musts. The ground fault electrical outlets certainly should be
used. The non-skid floor mat is needed in many rock shops. The proper tools for the job in hand are a
good safety measure.
We might not be as well equipped as a commercial lab. The closer we can come the safer we will be. We
should indeed consider all the same safety factors and what we can do to be safe.
by Mel Albright - AFMS Safety Chairman
Tain’t So
"ALL THAT GLITTERS IS NOT GOLD"
In Gilbert and Sullivans operatta H. M. S. Pinafore, Buttercup reminds us that "all that glitters is not
gold" and that "jackdaws strut in peacock feathers". We should keep her advice in mind when we read
"hints" in our own and in exchange bulletins. These ideas come from people with good faith, but often
little or no scientific background. Editors copy from each other with little effort to evaluate the ideas.
Many feel as I did when I started - "If it didn’t work, it wouldn’t have been suggested." So - they may be
short-cuts to disaster. A few that I have seen include:
"Use permanent automobile anti-freeze in you saw instead of cutting oil."
I doo not know what this would do to your saw blade or how well it would lubricate. I do know that
ethylene glycol (antifreeze) is a toxic material. It is bad for your health and for that of any pets you may
have around. Skin exposure and breathing of the mist created by the saw would both be bad for you.
This hint is a real loser. DO NOT DO IT!
"Use kerosine as a cutting oil in your saw." Again, this is a bad idea. Kerosene is A FUEL. It is less volatile
than gasoline and more volatile than diesel oil. It doesn’t ignite as easily as gasoline, but it will ignite
from sparks and heat. You could end up with several gallons of fiery fluid running around the floor. DO
NOT DO IT!
"Heat a cab and some wax in a microwave oven for fast dopping." Do you remember Mt. St. Helens? The
big explosion that occurred? That came from superheated steam. You can create a smaller version of
the same explosion in your microwave if you follow this hint. All rocks have water in the pores inside.
Microwaves work by heating water. The steam formed can create unbelievable force when it is confined
as in the rock pores. When the rock fractures, there will be lots of shrapnel flying around. DO NOT DO IT!
Generic "mix this with that to do this" hints. When two chemicals are mixed, there is often a reaction.
Some reactions are quite vigorous and release lots of energy. Mixing acid and water is a sample (see
"superheated steam" above). AAA - always add acid to water. Other mixing reactions release toxic
fumes. An example is porcelain cleaner and laundry bleach. They release chlorine gas. If you try one of
these hints, start outdoors and with limited quantities. Or - DO NOT DO IT!
Remember - some good sounding ideas are really, really bad. Read them with caution and, if you’re not
familiar with the material’s properties, ask someone about them.
by Mel Albright - AFMS Safety Chairman
"Safety" glasses
ARE YOUR SAFETY GLASSES REALLY SAFE?
by Mel Albright - Chair, AFMS Safety Committee
We are constantly reminded to wear ‘safety’ glasses. So, we tell the optical shop or the eye doctor that
we want safety glasses. Or, if we don’t wear prescription lenses, we buy ‘safety’ glasses from
somewhere. Then, feeling virtuous, we proceed to work away. Did you know that you are NOT very well
protected?
WHAT! But they said these are safety glasses.
Well, they are and they aren’t. Several years back, the U. S. government passed a law that all glasses
sold must be "safety’ glasses. The law’s meaning was that, if the glasses break, they will shatter into
small, non-pointed pieces and form no knife-like shards that might puncture the eye and go deeply into
the eye. This is the standard for safety glasses.
In industry, ‘safety’ glasses mean much more. In addition to breaking properly, they are designed to be
break resistant. That is, if something hits them, they will tend to stop it instead of just breaking. Even
more, industrial safety glasses may be designed to stop liquid splashes from hitting the eye - not just
straight on, but also from the side.
So, we rockhounds should ask for and get industrial grade ‘safety’ lenses and frames. It is that resistance
to breakage that offers us the most protection. I’ll admit safety glasses are not particularly attractive,
but that’s not their purpose. Personally, I like a face shield in the shop instead of glasses. It is more
protective, cooler, and restricts your vision far less than glasses. Actually, a face shield would be better
on field trips, too. But it sure isn’t as handy.
Whichever, be sure to wear one of them when appropriate.
AFMS Newsletter - Vol 95, No. 6 August 1995
First aid kit
THE PERFECT? LIGHT-WEIGHT FIRST AID KIT
by Chris Rylands - Bellevue, WA
[Did you know rockhounds field trip the internet, too? Recently, the rockhound e-mail exchange group
had an interesting discussion. It started when Chris Rylands (BRIOSA@aol.com) attempted to describe
the perfect light-weight first aid kit. See if you agree with Chris or perhaps you think of something that
should be added. - Mel Albright, Chair, Safety]
The idea of this kit is small and lightweight but yet an all around life saver. >>One of those blue plastic
eye cups if you need to wash out your eye, and an eye patch and eye ointment for infections. Most
rockhounds do not bother using their eye protection. Next time you go out watch... >>Water purification
tablets, cheapest, or one of those fancy pocket water purifiers if you are in a mineral rich area, with
springs or flooded mines. >>Hmm. Nice Vug, Lost your footing, AAAAAAAA!!! WHAM!!! Roll of black
tape (Electrician’s tape) it is elastic, waterproof, and air tight. Can be used for things like splinting, arm
slings, worse yet tourniquets. >>I hear the plane and can see it but they cannot see me, no wood or too
wet to have the smoking fire. Go to the local boat supply for orange smoke pots. Not flare guns, unless
you want to burn to death in the forest. Or be on CNN as the most stupid of all time rescues. >>Water
out of sand: For you Desert Rock-hounders, 2 dark green thick jumbo plastic garbage bag, one 3 foot
1/4" plastic fish tank hose. First dig a 3 ft x 2 ft deep hole. Place one bag in the bottom center of the
hole, shape it as a cup. Lay the plastic suction tube in the cup bottom and up and out of the hole. Now
cover the hole with the other plastic bag one layer thick. Totally seal the circumference of this hole and
bag with sand. Now place a stone in the center, as to made a depression in the bag over the cup. As the
humidity condenses on the top bag the moisture beads up and rolls to the drip point and lands in the
cup. Then you suck on the straw. Remember you can also soak the pit sand with what ever fluid you
want as long as it has H2O in it, radiator fluid, wet dirt, mashed up weeds/foliage etc. or even your own
you know what. After all this is what the astronaut's life support systems do. >>30somthin sealed, wax
dipped strike anywhere wooden matches, wrapped with wax dipped paper. By the way, did you know
you can start a camp fire with fine steel wool and your flashlight battery. >>Pocket thermal space
blanket. >>Chemical toe warmers, about $2.00 a pair at local sports stores, can be used as warm
compress or to save your cold toes,/fingers.>>You may have a big geode stuck in your mouth, and
cannot yell for help, and it is night. One phosphorescent snap and glow stick. >>One of those Oval Green
Rubber Snake bite kits. >>A pocket card on CPR Heat injuries, Shock, Burns, Fractures, Dislocations, Cold
injuries, Bleeding etc... most fire depts and or hospitals have these free items. After all if you save your
partner's life, he/she may give you their rock collection. >>One safety pin, for among many things,
picking out things. >>One candle. >>Pencil and 3X5" card. >>some waterproof cloth type Band-Aids And
remember, if you are in the cold or damp climate, "COTTON KILLS". ---- Did I forget anything?
Spiders
LIONS AND TIGERS AND BEARS? - HECK NO! ARACHNIDS!!!
Mel Albright, Chair, Safety
Arach-what? Well, Spiders, if you weren’t scared by the motion picture starring a few million of them.
Spring and Fall are prime times for people and spiders to interact - not always to the spiders
disadvantage. Spiders love warm, indoor places - quiet ones - and wood, brush, and rock piles.
Shoes, seldom used closets, rock storage, under tables and chairs, outdoor stone piles, wood piles (like
firewood), debris piles (like from the garden or yard), unused cabins, laundry piles, and the like are the
domain of the three spiders that people should look out for. The three are the black widow spider, the
fiddleback spider, and, one that may be new to you, the hobo spider.
The renowned black widow is a hairless shiny black spider with a red or yellow hourglass on her belly.
(Yeah, I know, I don’t wait to turn them over, either.) The females are 12 to 18 mm. in body diameter, so
they aren’t too hard to spot - except they place their nests under things and out of sight. They rarely kill
anyone but their bite may leave you thinking they have. From 10 minutes to an hour after a bite come
muscle spasms, burning, cramps, nausea and dizziness. Vomiting may also occur. Stone piles, log piles,
rarely used sheds, and other debris piles are favored by this one. (In the old days, it was on the
underside of the outhouse seat - especially dangerous for men.)
The fiddleback or brown recluse is a pale brown to reddish with a dark violin shape on its back. Its body
is 8 to 14 mm. It is the most dangerous spider. Its venom is stronger than pit viper snake’s venom. Its
bite may cause fever, chills, headache, and - sometimes - death. The bite may also ulcerate and cause
tissue loss that doesn’t heal - even causing permanent damage. If you find a bite with a reddish spot in
the middle and a whitish halo around it, go directly to medical help. (I’ve felt this one, so I can say the
bite also hurt like heck.) Basement crannies, clothes piles (even in bed with you!) , and other dark places
are preferred spots. (Mine was under my riding mower seat with the mower in a dark, rarely used barn.)
The hobo spider is an import and has spread from ports. It is considered the most common indoor
spider in the U.S. They are brown and their body is from 10 to 15 mm. They attack where other spiders
run. Their nests are funnel shape. Their bite leaves a spot and a halo like the fiddleback’s bite and can
cause 2 to 6 inch blister that take up to 6 months to heal and sometimes require surgical removal before
healing is possible. The bites may also cause short term memory and vision loss, nausea, headaches, and
fatigue. Rarely, the bite kills. They are most likely to move indoors with you when the weather starts
changing in the fall. In the fall, they also mate and are particularly touchy and aggressive. They like wood
piles, crawl spaces, barns, haystacks, and undisturbed clutter.
All three occur in every continental state. The fiddleback is most common in the south and the midwest. The hobo is very common in the Pacific northwest. The Black widow is everywhere except Alaska.
If you are bitten: Light bites require light use of ice packs and cortisone cream. Bulls-eye bites or those
with other symptoms require immediate medical care. If you’re bitten, try to kill the spider and take it
with you for identification.
Reference: Center for Disease Control; United States Department of Agriculture
Copyrights of the article(s) are retained by the author(s). Permission is given by the author for
reprinting in publications of clubs or societies that are affiliated with the AFMS for non-commercial
purposes with proper attribution to the author and its publication. Articles must be published in their
entirety and its meaning not changed. For other usage, the author(s) must be contacted for approval.
This information is provided for your reading enjoyment and the AFMS can not guarantee the accuracy
and completeness of the information contained therein. The opinions expressed are those of the
author and may or may not represent those of the AFMS.
Last Revised on January 16, 2011
© 1998-2011 American Federation of Mineralogical Societies, Inc.
Send suggestions to webmasteramfed.org
Safety Tips from the EFMLS
All of the following articles were written by:
Bill Klose
EFMLS Safety Chairman
Contents:
Feb 2000 - Safety Shoes
Mar 2000 - Hammer Safety
Apr 2000 - Safety with Common Hand Tools in the Field
May 2000 - Lyme Disease and Some Other Hazards Found where Rockhounds Roam
Jun 2000 - Safety in the Heat and Sun
Sep 2000 - Pliers and File Safety
Oct 2000 - Grinding, Polishing, and Buffing Machines
Dec 2000 - Traveling Safety
Jan 2001 - Eye Safety
Feb 2001 - Frost-bite and Hypothermia
Mar 2001 - Back Safety
Apr 2001 - Ear Safety
May 2001 - Vehicle Safety
Jun 2001 - Field Trip Safety
Sep 2001 - Lapidary Safety
Oct 2001 - Fire Hazard Safety
Nov 2001 - Cold Weather Safety
Mar 2003 - Safety First (Hammer Safety)
Safety Shoes
SAFETY FIRST
by Bill Klose EFMLS Safety Chairman
February 2000 EFMLS News
The wearing of safety shoes is not only required throughout U.S. industry, mines, quarries, and gravel
pits, but is just plain common sense. This point was driven home for me many years ago when a young
man on my production team had an eleven hundred pound steel roll from a toilet paper rewinder fall on
his foot. The resulting blow caused his safety shoe protective cap to explode and thus expend the
momentum from the roll, and produced a nasty looking and painful set of blood blisters and black and
blue marks on the top of his foot, but no broken bones or loss of toes.
Today's safety shoes are available for many functions, in many styles, and are quite affordable. In
selecting a pair of safety shoes, consider what you will be doing in pursuit of our wonderful hobby. If
your passion is the art of the lapidary, slabbing rocks, or the sale or display of rocks, minerals, or fossils,
a nice pair of low cut safety shoes with protective tips (steel or nonmetallic), such a sneakers, oxfords,
penny loafers, even slip ons, may provide you with the protection you need from a dropped specimen or
hand tool. If you attend field trips or walk over rugged terrain, you should consider safety shoes that
support the ankles and provide protection from sharp sticks, thorns, stones, abrasion, temperature,
moisture, and walking impact. A pair of waterproof boots that lace over the ankles would be ideal for
this purpose. Higher lacing boots would be advised for areas where thorn bushes, cactus, or snakes are
found. Full grain leather or waterproof safety shoes will provide moisture protection for normal weather
encountered, however for extensive wear in water, such as creeks, beaches, snow, mud, etc., I strongly
recommend that overboot or waders be used over the safety shoes. The soles of safety shoes should
provide solid grip traction, but not clog or chew up the trail. A properly fitted set of safety shoes with a
liner and footbed inside will provide ventilation, insulation from heat or cold, protection from rubbing,
and absorption of walking impact, and all day comfort.
The wearing of wool socks (or other materials recommenced by the manufacture) in the safety shoes
will wick perspiration away and protect the feet from extreme temperatures and disease. Tucking the
bottoms of your trousers and shoelaces into the top of the boots will keep insects, stones and other
undesirable items from getting up your pantlegs and down into your safety shoes, and will reduce the
chance of you tripping over your shoe laces. Please note that general issue army boots do not have
protective tips and thus are not safety shoes. Only certain army personnel, like mechanics, are issued
safety shoes.
Today safety shoes are available from most shoe stores. Tell your shoe store salesperson what your
needs are, and find the style that you like. You may find that you are wearing them everyday for safety.
Hammer Safety
Safety First
by Bill Klose, EFMLS Safety chairman
March 2000 EFMLS News
Hammers used by rock hounds come in every size, type and construction, and include rock hammers,
bricklayer's or mason's hammers, blacksmith's or sledge hammers, machinist's peen hammers, jeweler's
hammers, setting hammers, soft face hammers, lead or copper faced hammers, trimmer's and welder's
hammer's, as well as a variety of mallets, such as rawhide, rubber, and tinner's. I have even seen
napping hammers (a 3 pound high carbon steel hammer with tapering faces used for forming stones
during road construction or similar stone work) and railroad track mauls (used for driving railroad
spikes). As it is hard to anticipate what a rockhounds "favorite weapon" will be, I though I would present
a list of general hammer safety practices followed by the proper use of some of the more common
hammer types.
Always select the proper type, size, and weight of hammer for the job.
Always wear eye protection.
Always strike a hammer blow squarely, avoiding glancing blows and over and under strikes. The
hammers striking face should be parallel with the surface being struck.
When striking a chisel, punch, or wedge, the striking face of the hammer should be 3/8" larger than the
struck face of the tool. Both the striking hammers face and the struck face of the tool should be free of
oil.
Do not strike another hammer with a hammer.
Do not strike a harder surface with a hard surface hammer.
Never use a hammer with dents, cracks, chips, mushrooming, or excessive wear. Replace the hammerredressing is not recommended.
Replace worn or damaged handles. A qualified individual should replace hammer handles. Most
hardware stores will replace hammer handles for a nominal fee. They can also provide a rubber sleeve
for sledge hammers, which will prevent handle damage just above the head.
Bricklayer's or mason's hammers are designed for setting or splitting bricks, masonry tile, and concrete
blocks. Never use them to strike metal or drive tools such as chisels. The blade of a bricklayer's hammer
should be kept sharp by redressing at a 40 degree angle with a bench grinder. Keep the metal cool while
grinding by quenching often in water to protect the metals tempering.
Hand drilling hammers are used with chisels, star drills, punches, and hardened nails. Never use
common nail (claw) hammers for striking metal, such as chisels, as they are designed for driving
unhardened nails and their shape, depth of face, and balance make them unsuitable for this use.
Machinist's peen hammers (ball, cross, or straight) are designed for striking chisels and punches and
riveting, straightening and shaping metal.
Blacksmith's or sledge hammers are designed for striking wood, metal, concrete, or stone, depending on
size, weight, and shape.
When using a hammer, grip the handle near the end where it is designed for gripping and will give you
the best control and impact with the least effort. Watch your hands, shins, and feet. It may be advisable
to wear gloves, long sleeve shirts, and high lacing safety shoes to protect from flying debris and sharp
shards if the situation warrants it.
When storing hammers for a period of time, lightly lubricate metal parts, but wipe any oil or grease from
rubber mallets or rubber handle grips to prevent damage to the rubber.
So get out there and hammer up a storm, safely.
Safety with Common Hand Tools in the Field
SAFETY FIRST
by Bill Klose EFMLS Safety Chairman
April 2000 EFMLS News
Last month we covered hammers. Now lets look at other hand tools commonly encountered in the field.
Chisels and drills are used with hammers. Flat cold chisels are used to form and cut cold metal, so we
should use brick chisels (double beveled point with an included angle of 80 degrees) and brick sets
(single beveled point with an included angle of 45 degrees) to split rocks. Star drills have all cutting
edges to an included angle of 70 degrees. Hold chisels or drills with a loose fist, keeping the fingers
relaxed in order to minimize the chance of being hit by a glancing blow. A sponge rubber pad forced
over the chisel or drill above the hand may also protect the hand from a glancing blow. If some one else
is holding the chisel or drill, it is best to use a set of tongs or a chisel holder to guide the chisel. Gloves
are always recommended for both individuals to protect from glancing blows and flying chips. The
following safe practices apply:
Protect cutting edges by installing protective covers.
Store in racks where they may not be chipped or broken.
Regrind broken or chipped chisel edges before using. Remember to cool in water often to protect the
temper of the metal. Drill cutting edges should be hand filed. Replace chisels and drills with
mushroomed heads to prevent shards of metal from breaking off and causing injury.
Lubricate with light oil before storing.
Crowbars, pinch bars, and wreaking bars are favorite tools of the rock hound. Be sure to use the proper
size for the job, with a point or toe that will grip the object to be moved and a heel that will act as a
pivot or fulcrum. Use of a block of wood under the heel may also keep the bar from slipping and causing
hand injuries. Store bars secured upright so they wont fall or cause tripping hazards. Never hit a bar with
another tool and do not try to pry an item that will cause the bar to bend.
Knives are responsible for more disabling injuries than any other hand tool according to the National
safety Council. Use knives only for the purpose intended, not splitting rocks with a hammer. Keep the
knives blade sharp and cut away from the body, avoiding jerky motions. Use knives with retractable
blades whenever possible. If the item to be cut is held in the other hand, wear cut resistant gloves.
Always wear a sheathed knife at the hip towards the back, never on the front part of belt. This prevents
severing an artery or vein in a leg in case of a fall. Wipe knives with a separate cloth with the sharp part
of the blade turned away, not on clothes of with fingers to prevent cuts. Wash knives separate from
other utensils. When not in use keep knives in sheaths or racks and guard their edges to protect people
as well as the knives edge. For long term storage apply a rust preventative compound on all metal parts
and place in a dry spot. Avoid horseplay such as "fencing" when using knives and have plenty of room so
you wont bump into anything. The 18" machete is used to cut tall grass, vines, and small brush and is
heaviest and widest near the pointed end and has a handle shaped to fit the hand. When using a
machete, always make sure no one is close enough to be injured before swinging the tool, and always
clear the swing path so as not to deflect the blade. Do not use a dull or defective tool and store properly
in its sheath when not in use. For prolonged storage coat metal parts with light oil.
Axes are designed for cutting, felling, trimming, notching, and splitting wood and soft material. A narrow
blade is for hard wood and a wide blade is for soft wood. A single bit axe may also be used for driving
wooden stakes, not chisels and drill bits. Never strike an axe against metal, stone, or concrete. Never
strike with the side of an axe. Never use an axe with a worn or damaged handle. Use steel wedges for
splitting wood and use a sledge hammer or maul for driving a steel wedge, not a single bit axe. Keep axe
blades sharp - a dull blade may glance back and cut the user. Always wear safety shoes, safety glasses,
and durable pants. Before swinging an axe, ensure you have a path clear of vines, brush, etc., with no
one standing close. During swing, let hand slide down the handle towards the other hand near the end.
Have your weight evenly distributed with knees set but not tense. The body should be relaxed and free
to swing and bend at the waist. For a right handed person, the left foot should be closer to the work.
Protect axe blades with a sheath or metal guard. Carry axes at side-single blades pointed down. Axes,
like knives, should be kept sharp by honing.
Double bevel mattlock and pick mattlocks are designed for digging and cutting. There use and safe
practices are similar to that for axes.
Long handled shovels are used for digging in open areas and D handled shovels are for light digging in
confined areas. The spade is for heavy digging in confined areas. The post hole digger is used to bore
holes for posts, explosive charges, etc. Shovel blades should be kept well trimmed and the handles in
good shape and free of splinters. Wear heavy safety boots with sturdy soles and use the ball of the foot,
not the arch, to press the shovel into the ground. If the instep is used and the foot slips off the shovel,
the sharp corner of the shovel may cut the shoe and the foot. Keep legs well separated with spring in
the knees - the leg muscles should take much of the load while shoveling. Dip the blade in water often
or coat the blade with wax or grease to keep the shovel free of sticky material and caking. Treat the
wooden handles with linseed oil occasionally to avoid cracking and splinters. Store shovels against or
hang on the wall in a rack or shovel box.
Lyme Disease and Some Other Hazards Found where Rockhounds Roam
SAFETY FIRST
by Bill Klose EFMLS Safety Chairman
Submitted for the May 2000 EFMLS News
With the onset of spring the rock hounds heart turns to the field and rock hunting. The renewal of spring
with all it's beauty and bounty, also brings out the reptiles, insects, spiders, centipedes, scorpions, and
poison oaks, ivys, and sumacs. The dangers posed by these creatures and flora of nature are well
documented in the AFMS "Safety Manual" which I highly recommend club members review prior to
heading out for the 2000 collecting season. The Safety manual is available in your local club library or
from the EFMLS Supplies Coordinator Ned Reynolds for $l.50 plus $ .35 Shipping and handling at 37
Broadway, AMENIA NY 12501-0394. Some additional data has come to light since the AFMS "Safety
Manual" was published that I would like to review with you here.
The wood and deer ticks, which commonly occur in thick woods or tall grass, have been long associated
with Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever, but in recent years their bite has also been linked to Lyme Disease
and several other severe illnesses, including encephalitis (brain inflammation), Ehrlichiosis, and
Babesiosis. Lyme disease has been reported from all U. S. States except Montana, since it was first
identified in children in Lyme, Connecticut in l975. The symptoms of the disease include an expanding
red rash around small hard white lumps, arthritis, fever, chills, aches, enlarged lymph glands, and joint
swelling. Not all of these symptoms may occur, which makes diagnosis difficult. Several weeks to several
months later symptoms may include facial paralysis, joint inflammation, heart palpitations, memory
loss/difficulty concentrating, and changes in sleep habits or mood, so early treatment by a physician is a
must. But not to worry. On the positive side, the illness is limited to warm weather periods (April
through September), not all ticks will be carrying the disease, and even if you are bitten, the tick usually
must be logged in your skin for 36 to 48 hours to actually pass on the bacteria that causes Lyme Disease.
So prevention of tick infestation by not allowing ticks a point of entry through your clothes, the use of
tick repellent in areas where they are known to occur, staying clear of tall grass and dense woods,
frequent inspection of you and your pets for ticks, prompt and careful removal and disposal of ticks, and
washing of hands after handling ticks (do not crush between fingers to kill) will ward off the possibility of
contracting tick-born disease. There is no immunity built up to Lyme disease after having had it, but it
cant be passed from one person to another. A vaccine has been developed and is given as three
injections in a 12 month period, but is not recommended for children or the elderly.
Added to the list of critters in the AFMS "Safety Manual" is the caterpillar, some species of which have
poisonous spines or hairs, which when touched can cause skin irritation, itching, redness, swelling and a
raised rash. Wash well after touching a caterpillar.
Animal bites. Most animal bites are caused by household pets, however bites from wild animals can be
especially dangerous because of the possibility of being exposed to rabies. Bites that only break the skin
should be washed thoroughly with soap and water and covered with an antibiotic cream and clean
bandage. If you haven't had a tetanus shot in the last 10 years, get a booster shot. A bite where the skin
is badly torn or that creates a deep puncture and is bleeding should have pressure applied to stop the
bleeding and be shown to a doctor as soon as possible. If there are signs of infection or you suspect the
animal may have rabies (displays odd behavior, is foaming at the mouth, etc.) see your doctor
immediately.
Because we EFMLS rock hounds fan out all over the U. S. to collect, I am adding some Western items for
your consideration.
Cacti. If you are struck by cactus spines, pull them out with a tweezers or fine toothed comb, being
careful not to break them off in the skin. For fine spines use scotch tape or apply a thick layer of
household glue, letting it dry, then slowly peel it off, taking the spines attached to it. Apply an antiseptic
to the punctures and watch for any infection from fungus on the spines.
Valley fever is well known to fossil collectors at Shark Tooth Hill, Kern County, California, but is also
known to occur across the Southwest to Texas and into Northern Mexico. The disease may last for years
but once recovered, a person is immune. Valley fever cannot be transferred from one person to another
and at this time there is no vaccine available. Valley fever is a highly infectious fungus disease which
occurs in the soil and is inhaled as airborne spores into the lungs. Most cases occur during dry periods
following periods of heavy rain. It produces flu like symptoms, and in rare cases serious fever and
scarring of the lung tissue. It is occasionally fatal or causes meningitis. The cure is bed rest and possibly
antibiotics.
Pulmonary Syndrome Hantavirus. This disease occurs in rodent urine, feces, and saliva in the
Southwestern U. S.. It is primarily carried by the deer mouse, but has also been detected in pinion and
brush mice, and the western chipmunk. The symptoms include a high fever, backache, respiratory
distress, excessive urine production (polyuria) and abdominal pain with possible hemorrhaging of the
capillaries. Recovery is in three weeks or kidney failure. Death may result from the loss of blood. Person
to person transmission and transmission by insects or cats and dogs is not known to occur. Protection
includes staying away from areas with heavy rodent infestation and use of HEPA (High Efficiency
Particulate Air) respirators when having to enter known areas of infection or heavy rodent infestation. A
fairly rare disease in the U.S. but with a high mortality rate and well worth being aware of.
There is no need to panic and cancel collecting trips because of all the potential pitfalls out in the field,
but it is important to be aware of them and what to do if the need should arise.
Safety in the Heat and Sun
SAFETY FIRST
by Bill Klose EFMLS Safety Chairman
Submitted for the June 2000 EFMLS News
Now that the warmer weather is with us, so are the dangers associated with sunlight and hot
temperatures. Exposure to the sun for excessive periods of time can cause sunburn, premature aging of
the skin (leathery, rough and wrinkled), and the long term risk of developing skin cancer. Eye exposure
to Ultraviolet (UV) rays can also cause cumulative destructive changes in the structure of the cornea and
lens of the eye. Visible light, if too intense, can cause eye strain, headache, and destroy eye retina tissue.
Infrared radiation transmits heat to the eye, causing discomfort, and if prolonged, can contribute to the
development of cataracts. Sunlight reflected from sand, snow (leftover from winter), and water can also
increase damage to the eyes and skin. To avoid exposure to the sun, wear long sleeves and pants (not
shorts!) of dense cloth, hats, sunglasses with UV protection, and a non-allegetic, waterproof, sunscreen
with a Skin Protection Factor (SPF) of l5 or more on the remaining uncovered skin. Reapply the
sunscreen every two hours. Protect your skin and eyes even on cloudy days which can be when you will
receive your worst exposure. UV damage can be more sever at higher elevations where the air is thinner
and filters less out of the sunlight. In exceptionally hot parts of the country, such as the Desert
Southwest, avoid exposure to the sun between 10 AM and 3 PM when the suns rays are the most
intense. Some newspapers and TV stations forecast a Sun Intensity Index with the weather, which tells
how many minutes it takes for fair unprotected skin to redden. This time is then multiplied by the SPF of
your sunscreen to give you an estimate of how long you can delay becoming sunburned. If the Index is
not available and you usually sunburn in 20 minutes, than multiply the SPF (15) and you should be
protected for 300 minutes or 5 hours before you sunburn. Recent studies have shown that sunscreen
does not protect against skin melanomas, a serious form of skin cancer, and that serious sunburns can
lead to skin cancer 10 to 30 years later. Do not believe the myth that a sun tan will protect your skin
from sunburn.
Effects of heat and humidity on the body. The core of the human body works on an optimum
temperature of 98.6F + or - 1.8F (Internal organs, cavities, not skin). Heat cramps, heat exhaustion (or
prostration) and heat stroke may occur if the core temperature rises above this optimum temperature.
A persons ability to think and reason may also be impaired. The body has its own internal mechanisms
to maintain the optimum core temperature described by the equation:
Hs = Hm +/- Hc +/- Hr - He
Hs = Stored Heat
Hm = Heat gained due to Muscular Work (Metabolic activity)
Hc = Heat gained or lost by convection from the surroundings
Hr = Heat gained of lost by radiation from the surroundings
He = Heat lost by the evaporation of sweat
From the equation you can see that decreasing activity, temperature, the amount of radiated heat and
increasing evaporation rate all will contribute to the decrease of core body temperature. This means
that staying out of direct sunlight and heat or taking frequent breaks in a shady, cool, or air conditioned
place, will decrease the chances of developing heat disorders. The intake of fluids containing salt (at
least a pint an hour), such as sport drinks, or water and salt pills, will also help the body control core
temperature. In hot humid weather, especially above 97 F, it is best to stay indoors and avoid all
strenuous activity, as the body can not sweat enough to properly control core temperature.
Heat cramps can be caused by muscle exertion during hot weather and are characterized by sudden
sever cramps of the skeletal and abdominal muscles, excessive sweating and thirst. If you should suffer
these symptoms, rest in a cool spot, take a salty drink, and message the cramped muscles. Heat
exhaustion or prostration is caused by the body running out salt and/or water. The symptoms may
include profuse sweating, with pale, moist, cool skin, headache, weakness, dizziness, loss of appetite,
heat cramps, nausea (with or without vomiting), urge to defecate, chills ("goose flesh"), rapid breathing,
tingling of the hands and/or feet, dehydration, a low grade fever (99 f to l02 F) and confusion. Heat
stroke is caused by profound disturbance of the body's heat regulating mechanism due to prolonged
exposure to the sun, high temperatures, high or low humidity, and lack of air circulation. Symptoms
include red (flushed) dry skin, headache, dizziness, nausea (Stomach pains), confusion, weakness, loss of
consciousness, convulsions, weak and rapid pulse and breathing, a high fever (104 f to 106 F) and low
blood pressure due to shock. To treat heat stroke and heat exhaustion, move the victim to a cool spot
(air conditioned and with a fan if possible), lay on the back with legs elevated, loosen tight clothing, and
place cool compresses on the forehead, neck, and underarms. Water can be sprinkled on the victim, and
if conscious and not vomiting, l teaspoon of salt dissolved in a quart of water can be administered by
mouth at the rate of 4 ounces every 15 minutes. If the symptoms persist or the victim is unconscious,
seek medical attention or transport to a hospital immediately while continuing treatment.
For additional information refer to the AFMS Safety Manual or log on the AFMS Web site at
http://www.amfed.org/a_safetyAFMS1.htm. This AFMS web site contains AFMS, RMFMS, and EFMLS
safety articles.
Pliers and File Safety
SAFETY FIRST
by Bill Klose EFMLS Safety Chairman
Submitted for the September 2000 EFMLS News
With the coming to the end of the collecting season it is now appropriate to look at shop hand tool
safety. A few of the field hand tools, such as hammers, chisels, and knives, are also commonly used by
rock hounds in the shop, but will not be reconsidered here.
A commonly used group of tools are the pliers and tongs. Slip joint pliers, which include the well known
water pump pliers, have serrated jaws with a rod-gripping section and are used to hold objects. The slip
joint accommodates objects of different sizes. These pliers may also have a cutting edge for cutting soft
wire and nails, however cutting large or hard items will spring the jaws. Arc joint pliers are similar, but
may have straight or curved jaws and will accommodate a larger variety of object sizes. The tightening of
bolts or nuts with slip joint or arc joint pliers is not recommended and will usually result in damage to
the nut or bolt and may lead to damaged knuckles when the pliers slip. Use wrenches for tightening nuts
and bolts. Vice grip pliers are designed to provide a tighter grip but are still not to be used to tighten
nuts and bolts. Parallel jaw pliers are designed to hold flat surfaced objects such as sheets of metal.
Flat nosed pliers and round nosed pliers have a fixed pivot jaw and curved handles and may or may not
have insulated grips. The flat nosed pliers may have smooth or serrated jaws and are designed to bend
light sheet metal or wire. Round nose pliers are used to make loops in soft wire.
Diagonal cutting pliers have a fixed pivot and curved handles that are offset from the jaws about 15
degrees so as to provide the operator enough knuckle clearance while making flush cuts. These pliers
are designed for cutting small light pieces of wire, cotter keys, etc. and should not be used to hold or
grip items. When cutting, restrain the piece to be cut off so it will not become a missile hazard. End
cutting pliers or nippers are used to cut off wire flush to the working surface, thus keeping fingers away
from the wire ends. Hand shears are made with straight or curved cutting blades and are used for
cutting sheet metal. Shears are made for right-handed operators so that the cutting line is always in full
view for accuracy. Straight blade shears are used for cutting straight lines and curves, while curved
bladed shears are used for cutting short straight lines and curves and small intricate designs. When using
diagonal pliers, end cutting pliers, or shears, keep fingers away from the jaws and cutting edges and
always wear eye protection. Do not attempt to cut heavier material than the tool is designed for. Do not
use plies or shears as hammers or pry bars. Keep shears sharp with an oil stone or file. Grinding is not
recommend and shortens shear life. Keep pliers and shears clean and lubricate the pivot point with a
light oil. Store in a dry location on hooks or a shelf, protecting the cutting surfaces from contact with
other tools. A thin coat of oil can be applied to protect from rust. Do not remove insulation from handles
or oil insulated handles. Replace pliers that have broken handles, cutting edges or jaws.
Straight-lip flat jaw tongs have a fixed pivot point, two straight jaws and long straight handles and are
used for placing hot items into and picking them out of pickling solution.
Files come in many types and sizes and are used in metal smithing and soap stone carving. Some general
safety precautions for using files are: 1. Never use a file without a securely attached file handle (unless it
is a swiss pattern type). 2. Do not oil files which will cause the file to slide across the work, preventing
fast cutting. 3. Do not use files for anything but filing. 4. Clean files often as clogged files will scratch the
work. Always use a file scorer and file cleaning brush to clean a file-do not strike against another tool or
object to remove filings. 5. Store files in a file rack or box so that the file faces or edges do not touch
each other or other tools. Do not store files with lubricants on them. Wrap each file with a waterproofed barrier wrapping paper.
A variety of other hand tools can be found on the rock hounds work bench and each has it's own
operating and safety instructions. Work Safe!
Grinding, Polishing, and Buffing Machines
SAFETY FIRST
by Bill Klose EFMLS Safety Chairman
Submitted for the October 2000 EFMLS News
Now that the field collecting season is about over for many of us, we turn our attention to processing
the summers "harvest" of goodies. For many of us this means using our lapidary equipment, especially
the rotating grinding, polishing, and buffing machines. Abrasive disks and wheels are made of bonded
abrasive and are usually spindle mounted by a center hole to the grinding machine. Polishing wheels are
wood faced with leather, stitched canvas, or similar materials. A coat of emery or other abrasive is glued
to the periphery of these wheels. Buffing wheels are made of disks of felt, leather, canvas, or linen to
which a coat of mild abrasive, such as tripoli, can be applied to the periphery. Some lapidaries will also
have brush or scratch wheels made up of protruding wires of different types, sizes and lengths. Make
sure that the machine to be used is heavy duty enough to accommodate the size and type of wheel you
will be using and that the surface speed of the wheel peripheral is within the operating range
recommended by the manufacture. If you do not know the recommended speed of a grinding wheel,
operate below 2500 surface feet per minute (sfpm) to eliminate the risk of the wheel disintegrating and
causing damage to the surrounding equipment or personal injury. Polishing and buffing wheels are
operated at a speed of 3,000 to 7,000 sfpm with 4,000 sfpm a good speed for most purposes. All
machines should be connected to a power source of the proper rating for the machine and grounded.
Circuit breaker or Ground Fault (GFI) circuit breaker protection are highly recommended. The shut off
switch or plug should be within reach of the operator in a dry place protected from any spray from the
machines coolant. Stand to the side of a grinding machine when starting up and allow at least one
minute of warm up time before starting to grind. Always use coolant when the wheel is turning and
while grinding, but never allow coolant to flow over a wheel that is not turning, as the coolant may
collect on one portion of the wheel and throw it out of balance, which could cause the wheel to
disintegrate upon starting. Before stopping a wheel, discontinue applying coolant and run the wheel
until it dries evenly, thus maintaining balance. Only the periphery or circumference of standard grinding
wheels are designed for grinding-never grind on the sides of a grinding wheel. For bench and floor stand
grinding wheels, the peripheral guard should enclose the wheel and spindle as completely as possible,
not to exceed 65 degrees of wheel circumference exposure. The guard should be adjusted to maintain a
maximum opening between the top of the guard and the grinding wheel of 1/4 inch (6 mm). Safety
guards should also cover any exposed arbor ends and drive belts. A work rest should be installed at the
height of the horizontal center plane of the machines spindle no more that 1/8 inch from the grinding
wheel to prevent work from becoming wedged between the rest and the wheel, resulting in the wheel
breaking. this distance should be checked often as the wheel wears. Adjustment of the rest and the
guards should only be made when the wheel is stopped, to avoid contact with the moving parts and
resulting damage to the equipment and possibly fingers. Grinding work should be done near the center
plane of the wheel and moved back and forth across the face of the wheel to produce even wear. Do not
force the work and take too heavy of a cut. Do not hold small pieces of work against a wheel with bare
hands. Small pieces should be placed in a simple jig or fixture or attached to a dop stick to protect the
fingers from injury. The floor in front of the grinder or polishing machine should be of rough cement or a
non slip rubber mat to prevent falls on the wet surface. Abrasive wheels that are out of true or
unbalanced will not only produce poor work and reduced wheel life, but could cause machine damage
or operator injury. Rutted or rough wheels can be redressed with wheel dressing tools. The wheel
dressing tool should have a hood guard to protect the operator from flying particles from the wheel or
broken cutters and should be used with a rigid work rest set close to the wheel. Prior to use, inspect star
dressers for worn shafts and disks. If using a diamond dresser, apply to the face of the wheel at the
center plane of the wheel or slightly below the center plane, never above. Never use a lathe cutting tool
to dress a grinding wheel. The wheel dresser should be moved across the wheels face while holding the
heel or lug firmly against the edge of the tool rest. Apply moderate pressure evenly and slowly. Before
and after dressing a grinding wheel, round off the grinding wheels edges with a hard grinding stone to
prevent the edges of the wheel from chipping. Wear a safety shield over your safety glasses for added
protection from heavy particles. Wheels that are badly worn or out of balance should be taken out of
service. Abrasive wheels should not be bumped or dropped during handling. New wheels and wheels
that have been in storage should be inspected for cracks and other damage and should be given the
"ring" test by suspending the wheel by its center hole on a peg or finger and gently tapping it on the side
with a wooden screwdriver handle at 45, 135, 225 and 3l5 degrees around its circumference from its
vertical center plane. A good wheel will produce a clear metallic ring of various pitches, depending on its
grade and size. Do not use wheels that have been in storage longer than recommended by the
manufacturer. Abrasive wheels should be mounted between matching balanced flanges that have a
diameter of more than one third of the wheels diameter. Mount compression washers of blotting paper
(less that 0.025 inch thick) or rubber or leather (less than 0.l25 inches thick) between the wheel and the
flanges to compensate for unevenness of the wheel or the flanges. Firmly mount the wheel on the
grinders spindle with a spindle end nut, but not so tightly so as to distort the flanges or break the wheel.
A wheel that is loose on the spindle will run off center causing vibration. Once mounted on the machine,
the wheel should be turned several rotations by hand to ensure that the hood guards and work rest
have the proper clearance and that the wheel is properly centered on the spindle. Mounting procedures
for polishing and buffing wheels, and brush or scratch wheels are basically the same as for abrasive
wheels. When any of these wheels are moving do not touch any moving part of the machine or wheel to
determine its smoothness or condition. Always wear safety glasses with side shields or goggles. Do not
wear loose clothing or gloves that could get caught in the rotating components of the machine. In some
cases gloves may be required for protection from some liquids used during the buffing or polishing
process. Books on lapidary or chapter 12 of the AFMS SAFETY MANUAL on lapidary safety and
manufactures instructions discuss these materials and there hazards. Adequate personal protection
should be worn when using brush or scratch wheels, such as aprons (leather, heavy canvas, heavy
rubber), leather gloves, face shields and goggles. When applying abrasive to a rotating wheel, hold the
side of the cake lightly against the wheels peripheral. Where possible apply polishing compounds with a
brush. If a stick is used, apply the side of the stick to the off side of the wheel, so if it is thrown, it will fly
away from the wheel. Usually all operations should be done wet, however if the polishing procedure
calls for sanding or polishing dry, wear a dust respirator or use a suction blower to remove any dust.
Silica dust if inhaled can lead to a serious lung condition that is incurable, silicosis. The lapidary is filled
with other rotating machinery, such as diamond saws, flat laps, drills, etc., etc. All of these machines are
supplied with operating, maintenance, and safety instructions by the manufacture. Use all safety
procedures and enjoy our hobby without pain and with all your appendages.
Traveling Safety
SAFETY FIRST
by Bill Klose EFMLS Safety Chairman
Submitted for the December 2000 EFMLS News
The AFMS SAFETY MANUAL has several chapters devoted to the family car and its care prior to a trip and
the car as a life saver. At this time of the year we, as rock hounds and members of the traveling public,
have to consider winter driving, for most of us this means driving in the snow and ice.
Prior to venturing out in winter weather, consider if the trip is worth the risk, or if the trip can be
delayed until conditions are better. Winterizing the family vehicle is a must. Make sure that your brakes,
windshield wipers, defroster and heater system, and exhaust are all in good condition. Check your fluids
for the proper types and levels, such as winter grade oil, proper antifreeze levels and temperatures, and
winter type windshield washer fluid. It may pay to have a tune-up, prior to going into winter, to avoid
starting problems on the colder days. Make sure that tires are properly inflated and the tread condition
is good per the manufacture's instructions. Make sure the battery has good capacity and that the
battery connections are clean and tight. Have all belts and hoses inspected. Have the brakes adjusted if
required. Make sure all lights are in working order, including the emergency flashers.
A number of items should be carried in your vehicle in case of emergency. These include the standard
jack, lug wrench and spare tire or "donut", window scraper, flash light with spare batteries, matches in a
watertight container and a "survival" candle, emergency flares and reflective triangle, first aid kit with
pocket knife, jumper cables, adequate blankets and or sleeping bags, set of tire chains, traction mats,
sack of sand for traction, and ice melt, small shovel and snow shovel, medicine, energy food bars or
dried foods, such as trail mix, and bottled water. Portable radios and cell phones with spare batteries for
both are highly desirable. Extra cloths, shoes, gloves, hats and rain gear will be required if it turns colder,
you get wet, or you are not dressed for the outdoors, but only for a warm car. A small tool kit that
includes, screw drivers, wrenches, pliers, a tire pressure gauge, "bungy cords", duct tape, bailing wire,
and a rag can be used for minor roadside repairs. Carry a pencil (or pen) and paper and a brightly
colored rag to us a flag.
Before leaving the house, dress warmly in layers of light loose fitting clothing. Run the defroster and
heater when warming up the car, which should be driven as soon as possible to avoid damage to engine
parts. Allow extra time for the trip and drive an appropriate speed for the road conditions. Keep the gas
tank at least half full at all times and full at the start of a longer trip. Keep an empty clean or new gas can
with the emergency supplies. Make sure the windows and lights are clear of snow and clean. Use seat
belts and car seats that are properly installed in accordance with the manufactures instructions. Do not
lean forward in vehicles that have air bag (ABS) systems, but try to give the air bag cover at least 10
inches of clearance to provide sufficient space for deployment. Drive with the lights on and the mirrors
properly adjusted. Use proper signals while turning. Keep a safe distance from the car ahead to allow
reaction time and proper braking. If driving in the snow, the best steering is in the tracks of the vehicle
ahead. If you go into a skid, take your foot off the brake and gas, let the engine slow you down, and
steer gently in the direction of the skid, until you regain steering control. If you have standard brakes,
pump the brake petal gently until stopped. If you have anti-lock brakes, apply firm and constant
pressure on the brake petal-you will feel the brake petal pulsate, which is common. Never jam on the
brakes. Remember that 4-wheel drive and Sport Utility Vehicles (SUV') may have higher ground
clearance which helps them get going better than other vehicles in heavy snow, but are not immune to
winter conditions and have the same basic handling characteristics when braking. Some SUV's have a
high center of gravity and are more prone to roll over during sharp turns.
When traveling with trucks, make sure the driver can see you, by driving slightly to the left side where
you can see his mirror. Remember that if you can't see his mirror, he can't see you. If you pass a truck,
give him a wide berth, and turn up the speed of your windshield wipers if the road is wet or snow
covered. If the road is too slippery, you may consider not passing. Do not follow a truck too closely and
stay back a safe distance when at a stop light or sign-he may roll back slightly on a hill before he moves
forward.
If the visibility gets too bad, pull as far off of the road as possible, and turn on your emergency flashers.
If you have a flat tire, need repairs or have damage to the vehicle, never try to fix or survey the problem
on the highway, get as far off the road to as safe place as possible, even if it means damage to the tire
and rim. If the car is disabled, put out flares or reflective triangles, and if you can't safely effect repairs,
call for help and stay in the vehicle for protection from the elements and passing vehicles.
Road rage should be considered during any season of the year. The best way to avoid making other
drivers angry and aggressive is to be courteous, content, and considerate. When you merge, always use
your turn signals and allow plenty of room. If you are cut off, slow down and give them plenty of room.
If you are in the left lane and someone comes up behind, move over to the right, and let them pass. Use
your horn seldom, if ever. Do not come up behind other cars with your high beams on, or tail gate. Do
not make any gestures, even shaking your head, that might anger another driver. Do not make eye
contact with an angry driver and give him plenty of room. It takes two angry drivers to start a fight. Get
help if an angry driver is following you and trying to start a fight. Use a cell phone to call police or go to a
police station or place where there are people around. Do not get out of your car or go home.
Make your trip to a winter rock show or a visit with friends or relatives during the holiday season
enjoyable and safe.
Eye Safety
SAFETY FIRST
by Bill Klose EFMLS Safety Chairman
Submitted for the January 2001 EFMLS News
Most articles on rock hound safety invariably touch on eye safety in some form or another, whether it is
protection from the sun on the way to a collecting site, protection from flying particles at a collecting
site, or protection from dust, chemicals, or particles while processing the finds back in the shop.
Eye hazards include, particles, mists, vapors, fumes, gases, lazer light and ultraviolet light. At once you
can see that not all of these hazards are commonly encountered by most rock hounds, but some will be
encountered by all rock hounds.
Safety glasses or spectacles are designed to provide impact protection from flying particles and have
heavier frames than normal spectacles and impact resistant lenses, usually of polycarbonate. They can
be tinted to protect the eyes from lazer or ultraviolet light. As most particles enter the eyes at an angle it
is recommended that they accommodate and are worn with side shields. Safety glasses with
prescription corrective lenses are available, even bifocal and "multifocal". Do not use spectacles
intended for protection from radiation and glare from the sun indoors where your vision may be
impaired by the tinted lenses. Spectacles should be fitted to your eye and bridge size and temple length.
The temples should fit comfortably over the eyes. The frame should be close to the face and supported
by the bridge of the nose. Keep spectacles clean and clear of scratches. Store your spectacles in a case in
a dry, clean place where they will not fall or be stepped on. Scratched or damaged spectacles interfere
with vision and do not provide protection. Safety spectacles alone do not provide adequate protection
for the eyes from fumes, vapors, liquids and large particles. Safety goggles provide a secure shield
around the entire eye area to protect against hazards coming from many different directions and spread
the force of impact over a larger area around the eye. Goggles are most effective when worn with safety
spectacles and are also provided with impact resistant and tinted lenses. Goggles that are unvented or
indirectly vented will provide protection from splash hazards. Goggles can be provided with fog free
coatings. Face shields should be worn with safety spectacles and goggles to provide additional
protection of the face from sparks, splashes, splatter, and larger particles. Never wear a face shield
alone. Face shields are available with protective head gear and chemical hoods. Typical rock hound
usage of a face shield would include poring hot liquids, use of acids to clean minerals or fossils, breaking
rocks with hand and mechanical equipment, and dressing grinding wheels.
So whatever your pleasure while rock hounding, consider what potential hazards are present and select
the appropriate face and eye protection required.
Frost-bite and Hypothermia
SAFETY FIRST
by Bill Klose EFMLS Safety Chairman
Submitted for the February 2001 EFMLS News
My fall fossil collecting was cut short this year by old man winter's early arrival. As in past years I didn't
give up easily, and braved out into the cold and wind with the help of wisdom provided in Chapter
Sixteen of the AFMS SAFETY MANUAL. It is a little late for the fall, but the late winter and early spring
are blessed with some collecting days that have similar wind and cold conditions. The two problems that
must be avoided are frost-bite and Hypothermia.
Frost-bite is caused by the cutting off of circulation to and possible destruction of superficial tissues,
especially in the extremities (hands, feet, ears, nose) and other exposed areas of the body. The wind
(wind chill factor) and moisture can add to the effects of cold temperatures, even when above freezing.
Symptoms of frost-bite begin as a prickly feeling on exposed areas of skin followed by numbness and
waxy looking patches. In more sever cases these patches get lumpy, redden, blister, and the skin dies
and falls off, or gangrene sets in. Sever pain is associated with this condition. At the first signs of frostbite, dry the affected area and cover with clothing or tuck (hands and feet) into clothing or armpits to
prevent further cooling. Do not rub or apply snow to the frost-bitten area. The affected area can be
placed in water a little above body temperature (not above l04 degrees F). Do not place hands under
running hot water, as there will not be any feeling initially, so they could become burned. As the frostbitten area "thaws" it is normal to feel pain or a burning sensation. If blisters form, do not break them,
protect them with a loose dressing and seek medical attention immediately. The best protection against
frost-bite and hypothermia is to keep warm, keep moving, and keep dry. Dress in loose layers of warm,
waterproof, and windproof clothing, that cover exposed areas. Warm gloves and a hat are essential. Up
to 80% of the bodies warmth can be lost out through an uncovered head. The young and elderly are
especially at risk, as are people who have been drinking alcohol, have diabetes or poor circulation.
People taking beta blockers to lower blood pressure are especially at risk. It is best to pair up with
someone who can watch for signs of frost-bite or hypothermia.
Hypothermia is the loss of body temperature and can be life threatening. The symptoms are initially
uncontrollable shivering with pale and numb skin. The person than behaves confused and forgetful, acts
tired and wants to sit or lie down. In sever cases, the person will go unconscious, and will have shallow
breath and erratic heartbeat, and than the pulse weakens and slows. At the first signs of hypothermia,
take the victim to a warm, dry place and give them hot liquids (not alcohol). Prevent further heat loss by
blankets, warm rocks, or a companion in bed with the victim. Get medical attention as soon as possible
if the symptoms have gone beyond the shivering stage.
If you aren't a cold weather collector, these same precautions apply to any activities performed during
cold weather conditions.
Back Safety
SAFETY FIRST
by Bill Klose EFMLS Safety Chairman
Submitted for the March 2001 EFMLS News
As I got into my winter routine of reorganizing my collections, I started to notice a little persistent lower
back pain related to the constant lifting and carrying of loaded boxes of rocks and fossils. I have had
extensive training in proper lifting techniques in the military and industry, however a review is always
enlightening.
Prior to lifting it is a good idea to consider a number of things. How heavy or bulky is the object to be
lifted and carried? How good a shape are you in and have you had any back problems in the past after
lifting? Many back injuries are of a cumulative type, where a repeated minor injury will flare up and
become worse. How much room is there around the object to be lifted and how much room is around
where it is to be deposited? What kind of obstacles are there along the transportation route, such as trip
hazards, holes, overhangs, etc.? If any of these questions create a concern, or if in doubt, get help or use
an aid such as a dolly, hand truck, or even fork lift. Statistics show that 80% of back injuries occur in
people between 30 and 50.
Be sure to utilize appropriate safety equipment such as safety shoes and work gloves when lifting. The
use of back belts, as seen at some stores and outlets, has not been shown to prevent back injury
according to recent studies. Prior to the lift, make sure you have adequate clearance for your hands and
arms. Stand close to the load with the feet apart and the toes pointed out to provide firm footing. Bend
your knees, not your waist. Grip the load firmly with a "full palm Grip". Do not place your fingers under
the load. Tighten your stomach muscles and then lift head and shoulders first, and then with your back
straight, use the strength of your legs to slowly and smoothly push up. "Jerk-lifting" a load will multiply
the stress to the lower back. Keep the load close to your body at all times with your back upright. Never
hold the load away from your body. Make sure you can see over the top of the load. If you should have
to change direction with the load, move the whole body with your feet. Do not twist your body which
can be especially dangerous to the back. To raise the object above shoulder height, first lift to waist
height and rest on the edge of a ledge, hip or stand, and then shift hand positions, so the object can be
boosted after the knees are bent. The knees should be straightened as the object is lifted or shifted to
the shoulders. If the object is to be placed on a table or shelf, first set it on the edge, and then push it far
enough onto the support so it will not fall. The object should be released gradually as it is set down and
then pushed into place with the hands and body in front of the object. When setting the object down,
keep the back straight and upright, bend the knees, and lower the object down slowly and smoothly.
Don't add the weight of your body to the load.
Lift safe and stay healthy in 2001.
Ear Safety
SAFETY FIRST
by Bill Klose EFMLS Safety Chairman
Submitted for the April 2001 EFMLS News
Hearing loss affects about 28 million people in the U. S., about 10 million of these people received this
damage, in part, as a result of exposure to loud noises. More than 20 million Americans are exposed to
hazardous levels of noise on a regular basis that could result in noise-induced hearing loss (NIHL).
Occupational noise exposure is the most common cause of NIHL, but non occupational exposure, such
as live or recorded high volume music, airplanes, automobiles and recreational vehicles, household tools
and some appliances, are also major contributors to NIHL. Very loud sounds of short duration, such as
an explosion, gunfire, or loud banging, can produce immediate, severe, and permanent loss of hearing.
Longer exposure to less intense levels of sound over time, exacts a gradual toll on hearing, initially
without the person's awareness. The louder the level of noise, and the longer the duration of exposure,
the greater the potential for damage. How can we protect ourselves from this hazard? The best method
is to eliminate or reduce the level of intensity of the noise source and the time of exposure. The next
best prevention method is to wear hearing protection in the form of ear plugs (disposable or fitted) or
ear muffs when exposed to noise. Rock hounds are most commonly exposed to noise while in
automobiles or recreational vehicles on the way to collecting sites. Some collecting sites contain
industrial equipment and vehicles that can generate considerable amounts of noise. When at these sites
it is best to wear the same level of protection that the workers at the site are wearing, as the employer
has determined the level of protection required for his employees. Rock hounds also use hammers and
even large portable gasoline engine powered diamond saws at collecting sites to recover specimens, and
should protect their hearing with ear plugs and or ear muffs. Back in the shop, all rotating equipment,
such as diamond saws, grinding wheels, rock hammers, hydraulic rock trimmers, etc., contribute to the
noise level. Consider wearing ear plugs or muffs to prevent NIHL.
Reduce the effects of noise and enjoy collecting in 2001.
Vehicle Safety
SAFETY FIRST
by Bill Klose EFMLS Safety Chairman
Submitted for the May 2001 EFMLS News
The winter weather is now behind us in most areas of the United States, so the rock hounds heart turns
to the field trip and warm weather show schedule. Both of these activities require the use of the family
pack mule, the automobile. In order to arrive safely we must prepare the "family truckster" for the trip
and then "pilot" it there safely. Prior to leaving on a trip, make sure your vehicle is in good mechanical
condition. Make sure the engine is in good condition after the winter and that the breaks are in
excellent condition. This may require a tune up and brake adjustment or replacement. Check the tires
for wear and proper air pressure, including the spare tire or "donut". If the tires show wear, rotate
them, or replace them. A wheel alignment may be prudent, if it appears that misalignment is the cause
of uneven tire wear. If you are going to be traveling over long distances with out services or on rural
roads, especially rutted dirt roads, it may be advisable to replace the "donut" with a full size tire. This
will provide the ability to reach services that are farther away then the recommended range and speed
for the "donut" and provide clearance for the vehicles body on rutted roads, especially with the loads
we rock hounds are known to carry. The tires should always be fully inflated. Soft tires provide a
smoother ride but will heat up and may fail in the hot summer weather. Make sure your windshield
wipers are in good condition and the inside and outside of the windshield and other windows are clean.
Adjust the seat headrests to the level of your ears, not to the lower area of your head or the curvature
of the neck. Make sure your headlights are properly adjusted and clean. Adjust your mirrors so as to
reduce the "blind zone". It may be advisable to replace the inside rear view mirror with a wider type to
improve rearward visibility. Avoid buying vehicles with dark tinted windows, which can impair visibility.
Ensure that the seat belts and children's safety seats are in good condition and properly installed. An oil
change and lube will improve engine performance and mileage after the winter driving. Check the
supplies in the trunk for bottled water, a tire iron with the lug nut key, if anti-theft lug nuts are installed
on your vehicle, flashlight, emergency flasher or triangle and blanket. Extra break fluid, engine oil,
windshield wiper fluid, and transmission fluid are recommended, as is an emergency tool kit and first aid
kit. Make sure your cell phone is in good working order and it's battery is fully charged and a spare cell
phone battery is in the vehicle, especially if relying on the vehicle for power, which would not be
available in case of a vehicle battery failure or wiring problem.
Plan your trip before heading out, so you can concentrate on driving and not navigating. Have the maps
and guides available in the vehicle and have someone else familiar with them to aid with navigation
should the need arise. Make reservations in advance and plan the trip, so each days activities will not
exhaust the driver. Provide for frequent stops to rest the driver and if possible share the driving
responsibilities. AARP recommends that "if you are planing to take an unfamiliar route at night, try
making a trial run during daylight". Avoid driving in heavily traveled or high speed areas during rush hour
and bad weather. Make sure that your prescription glasses are current and that you have both clear and
dark glasses with you before you leave. Carry something to eat, like energy bars, in case you are
marooned alongside an isolated highway for a period of time.
Once you are on the road, keep a safe distance (three second rule) behind the vehicle in front of you. If
you are going to change lanes, signal way in advance and look in the inside and outside rear view mirrors
and over your shoulder before making your move, to avoid not seeing a vehicle in the "blind area" in the
rear quarter area of your vehicle. When passing, provide adequate space and use your turn signals prior
to pulling back over into the travel lane. Do not travel in the passing lane. Do not talk on the cell phone,
eat, or engage in any other activity while driving that will distract your attention or keep you from
having both hands on the steering wheel. Use your headlights one half hour before sunset until one half
hour after sunrise and whenever there is poor visibility or rain. Keep the radio volume down and be alert
for emergency vehicles flashing lights and audio warnings. Use your safety belts and stay at least ten
inches from the vehicles air bags. If your vehicle should have a flat tire or other casualty, get as far off
the pavement as possible and put out a flare, flasher or emergency triangle, so others can see you. It is
better to drive a short ways on a flat to get the vehicle out of traffic danger. If it is not safe to change the
tire or repair the vehicle yourself, call for help. Do not encourage road rage by making jesters, looking at
other drivers, or exhibiting aggressive driving habits. If you should be pursued by an another driver,
proceed to a populated area, preferably a police station. Do not go to your home and do not get out of
your vehicle. Always be alert for the unexpected.
With all these do's and don'ts, get out there and enjoy the warm weather. See you all safely at the
EFMLS show in Syracuse.
Field Trip Safety
SAFETY FIRST
by Bill Klose EFMLS Safety Chairman
Submitted for the June 2001 EFMLS News
"SAFETY RULES FOR FIELD TRIPS" were expertly laid out for us decades ago in Chapter One of the "AFMS
SAFETY MANUAL". As the field trip season gets underway, it behooves us all to review the 17 items
listed. I have repeated these rules as written and added a few comments within or after a few in
brackets.
1-- Never go on a Field Trip alone. Have some one along who can help, or summon help if necessary.
<Make sure someone knows where you went and when to expect you back. Carry a cell phone to
expedite communications.>
2-- Should there be children, have the child within seeing and talking distance. A child not only could get
lost, but could encounter a snake, scorpion, etc., or have an accident of some sort.
3-- Do not collect directly above or underneath people where there might be danger of falling rock.
4-- Park so that all cars can get out. Do not block the roadway.
5-- Should you leave the Field Trip early, notify the person in charge.
6-- Make sure all fires are out and wet down with water or smothered with dirt completely.
7-- Break all matches in fingers before discarding, and be careful where they are thrown.
8-- Break any cigarette before discarding and then crush it on the bare ground.
9-- Do not throw rocks, and do not allow children to do so.
10-- Avoid old mine tunnels. Never go into a mine alone. Carry a flashlight and a candle. Carbon dioxide
or other gasses may be present. There may even be a lack of oxygen. <Mines are also havens for snakes,
scorpions, spiders, rodents and there feces, etc.. Mines also may have uncovered deep shafts and pits.>
11-- Respect property rights and signs. Obtain permission to enter property if owned by private persons
or company owned. <Attend Company safety briefings and sign releases if required. Pay attention to
and practice Company safety policys.>
A-- Inquire if there are vicious animals in the fields.
B-- Never walk <or drive RV's like 4 wheelers> on newly planted or cultivated fields without special
permission.
C-- Be extremely cautious in hunting near abandoned buildings. You may stumble into a deep well <or
cesspool> not properly covered.
D-- Refill any deep hole you dig, so people or animals might not fall in. <Do not dump dirt and other
debris into streams.>
12-- Respect another's diggings. If a person has left for lunch or for any reason with the intention of
returning, and has left a pick, coat, or definite marker, find another place.
13-- Leave any place in good condition. Don't leave papers, cans, etc., lying around to mar the beauty of
the place, and to tell others you have been there.
14-- Close all gates you may have opened.
15-- Never eat wild berries <or anything else> unless you are absolutely sure they are safe. <Carry
bottled water and do not drink from streams or wells that have not been recently tested.>
16-- Be able to recognize Poison Ivy, Poison Oak, etc. Should there be any doubt, don't touch!
17-- Always be alert for snakes, scorpions, <ticks, spiders, rodent infestations> etc. Be very cautious
where you put your feet and hands.
As you can see, a lot of hard gained practical experience has been incorporated into these safety rules.
To these I would add the following rules.
Do not over exert or stay in the direct sunlight or heat too long. Take a rest in the shade from time to
time and drink plenty of fluids.
Properly wear appropriate safety equipment, sunscreen, and clothing.
Bring and use the appropriate well maintained and inspected tools. Don't expect others to provide tools
for you.
Have your vehicle in proper working order with appropriate emergency supplies and equipment.
Use proper lifting and carrying techniques to bring home your finds. Do not overload your vehicle.
Many of these safety rules are covered in greater detail in other chapters of the AFMS Safety Manual
and on the AFMS web site. Have a safe field trip season and see you all at the EFMLS gatherings at the
Syracuse Show this summer.
Lapidary Safety
SAFETY FIRST
by Bill Klose EFMLS Safety Chairman
Submitted for the September 2001 EFMLS News
"LAPIDARY SAFETY" is the substance of Chapter Twelve of the AFMS "SAFETY MANUAL" and provides a
good review for the indoor activities that follow a good summer of field collecting. I am going to repeat
the wisdom laid out in this chapter as written, with a few of my comments in brackets where
appropriate.
In "Lapidary" one may be subject to many conditions, some of which are potentially harmful. Some of
the agents used, are caustic or poisonous. The following safety rules, if followed, will lessen the risk of
possible harm or injury.
1-- Protect your eyes when chipping or grinding rocks. "WEAR PROTECTIVE GLASSES". (Goggles and
safety shields provide additional protection from caustic liquids and large flying chips and should be
worn over safety glasses when the situation warrants it. What you are currently grinding may not be
caustic, but what was used in the equipment previously and may still be in the water?)
2-- Run your grinding wheels no faster than the speed recommended by the Manufacture. (If you are
unsure, run the wheel no faster than 2500 sfpm (surface feet per minute). Polishing and buffing wheels
are operated at a speed of 3,000 to 7,000 sfpm with 4,000 sfpm a good speed for most purposes.)
3-- Do not let your wheel become water logged. Keep it running until all water has been thrown out;
otherwise, it will cause a heavy spot and make your wheel out of balance. (Do not turn on cooling water
until the wheel is up to speed. Out of balance wheels could cause the wheel to disintegrate upon
starting. The floor in front of grinder or polishing machine should be of rough cement or a non slip
rubber mat to prevent falls on the wet surface.)
4-- Keep your wheel true. It will wear longer and there will be less chance of its parting while in use.
(Grinding work should be done near the center plane of the wheel and moved back and forth across the
face of the wheel to produce even wear. Do not force the work and take too heavy of a cut. Wear
appropriate eye, hand, and body protection when using dressing tools. Follow the manufacturers
instructions for the dressing tool being used. Only the periphery or circumference of standard grinding
wheels are designed for grinding-never grind on the sides of a grinding wheel. We have all done it!
Insure the work rest and peripheral guard are properly installed and only adjust them when the
equipment is not running.)
5-- Keep all belt pulleys and belts covered. It may save a finger.
6-- Use dop sticks whenever possible. It may save a badly cut finger. (Small pieces may also be placed in
a simple jig or fixture.)
7-- A word of "warning" to those individuals who use "dry sanding" of their cabachons. Silicosis is a
serious disease which is caused by the inhalation of fine silica dust. Use a dust mask or suction blower,
or change to wet sanding. "Silicosis cannot be cured". (It may be prudent to wear a chemical mask if wet
sanding and the cooling water is being reused and could have dangerous compounds dissolved in it from
the materials that are being or have been sanded.)
8-- Be careful with your alcohol lamp. It could cause a fire.
9-- Keep all containers properly labeled. Putting polishing powders in baking powder cans, for instance,
without a proper label, can be dangerous. "(Had the Linde A Powder my hired lady used, been Tin Oxide,
it could have been serious. As it was, she couldn't figure out why the cake didn't raise!)".
10-- The use of Oxalic Acid, when properly used, greatly facilitates the polishing of agates. Oxalic Acid is
caustic to the skin, as well as a frank poison, if accidentally ingested or inhaled. Also getting some in the
eyes from the spray from the polishing wheels, may cause a burn of the cornea, resulting in impaired
eyesight. When using this acid, proper precautions must be taken.
A--It is advisable to apply the polish to the wheel, with a brush. (This is good practice for all polishing
compounds, not just acid.)
B--Wear protective glasses. (Drip proof or mist proof Goggles over the glasses provide additional
protection.)
C--It may be advisable, under certain circumstances, to wear protective gloves. (A rubber apron will
protect clothing and underlying skin.)
D--Immediately wash any contact areas of the shin, with soap and water. Medical attention may be
advisable.
11-- Sulfuric Acid and Nitric Acid are sometimes mixed with polishing compounds when faceting
sapphire. They are also used in the polishing of sapphire cabachons on lead laps. These acids are severe
caustics and will cause severe burns if they come in contact with the skin or eyes. In using the
techniques above, one must use the utmost precautions. Any contaminated areas must immediately be
washed with soap and water. If any gets in the eyes, thoroughly irrigate with water, and seek medical
attention. The application of a baking-soda pack is often advisable, or the sponging with a solution of
baking soda in water, to the burned area.
12-- The polishing compounds we use today are, as a rule, relatively non-toxic, except to some
individual(s). The use of detergents added to the polishing powders, can cause a dermatitis of the hands.
This can be eliminated if the offending substance is eliminated. (The uses of masks, goggles, face shields,
gloves, and rubber aprons, can also reduce the risk of dermatitis.)
13-- The use of epoxy Resins are very irritating to the skin, and severe cases of dermatitis have resulted.
This can easily be prevented by not getting the hands in actual content with the resins. Acetone will
remove this, if you should get some resin on the skin.
14-- The various cutting oils used in the diamond saws, are primary irritants to the skin, and will, in many
individuals, produce a dermatitis. Also, the fire hazard, in the use of certain cutting oils, must be realized
and proper precautions taken.
15-- (This paragraph deals with silver-soldering and should be the subject of it's own safety article).
16-- Do not overload outlets. If in doubt, have the circuits checked by an electrician.
17-- Keep switches and motors in a dry place, where the water from grinding will not splash on them.
(The shut off switch or plug should be within reach of the operator. Stand to the side of a grinding
machine when starting up and allow at least one minute of warm up time before starting to grind.)
18-- Be sure to have all motors and outlets grounded. In case of faulty wiring or short circuit, the ground
will absorb the shock-"not you". Standing on a rubber mat will give some protection. Electric shocks can
cause death! (Circuit Breakers or Ground Fault (GFI) Circuit Breakers are highly recommended over plug
fuses. A wet rubber mat will only give you a false sense of security. Water is an electrical conductor!)
19-- Suspicious wires lying on the floor or ground, should be avoided--at home or on field trips. They
may be harmless, but if they are not, "beware".
20-- When a person suffers electric shock, it is important to use a stick or other object to separate him
from the source before beginning resuscitation. (Shutting off the power source, if known, will also
decrease the hazard to all concerned.)
21-- AN ELECTRICIAN'S FEE IS A SMALL PRICE FOR ONE'S OWN SAFETY!
Too all this I would also add, use proper lifting techniques when hauling all that "good stuff" into the
lapidary. It has been suggested at EFMLS annual meetings, that hazardous minerals would be a good
topic. After investigating the potential topic I have come to the conclusion we should treat all minerals
with respect and protect ourselves accordingly. It is better to always practice safety around all minerals
than let down our guard when a hazard is present that we may not be aware of. Do you really always
know what you are licking or grinding?
Fire Hazard Safety
SAFETY FIRST
by Bill Klose EFMLS Safety Chairman
Submitted for the October 2001 EFMLS News
The heat of the summer is starting to fade in most locations that rock hounds like to frequent, but that
same heat has left dry conditions behind. Take heed of the hazards of the fall forest and grass fire
season as you pursue the last collecting days of the year. Chapter Eight of the AFMS "SAFETY MANUAL"
deals with "Fire Hazard" and will be repeated here with a few of my comments in brackets where
appropriate.
At the approach of summer (and fall and early winter) camping season, all campers should be reminded
about the use of fire on the timber and range lands. Most forest fires and range fires, are caused by
carelessness; a few are caused by lightening, and some can be caused by glass contains, containing clear
liquids, and bright bent cans acting as a magnifying glass, or magnifying mirror--focusing the sun's rays
on combustible material. (Northern Forest Fire Laboratory, Missoula, Montana).
Always build fires in prescribed areas if present, and if not, clear an area of leaves, grass, and branches,
and make a protective rock ring around the fire area. (Check the local papers, radio stations, and fire
rangers or stations where you are camping to see if an outside burning ban is in effect before starting a
camp fire. In very dry conditions, even the underground roots may present a fire hazard, which will
allow a campfire to spread. A number of recent forest and brush fires in the Northeastern U. S. have
been started by campfires and trash fires spreading into the dry roots in the ground under them and
then to the surrounding woods. Do not start a fire in an old strip coal mine where the coal vein may be
exposed just under the surface or the old pit has been used as a land fill full of combustibles. Several
very serious underground coal mine fires have been started this way.) Never leave a fire burning! Put it
out! Use water if possible, then cover with earth. Never throw away a burning match until it is
completely out and cold. If you smoke, be sure the "butt" is out before throwing it away. Always grind it
into the earth, to make sure. (For filter tips, break down the paper and tobacco end and grind it into the
earth and take the filter tip with you in your trash bag.)
Remember--glass containers containing clear liquids, and cans in the open, can act as a magnifying glass
or mirror, and if in the sun, can start fires by focusing the sun's rays, on pine needles, punky wood, or
range grass.
Keep a clean camp! Help eliminate litter, Please, and Help Prevent Forest Fires!
The California agency says investigations have identified auto exhaust catalytic converters as the cause
of grass fires in six locations. According to a fire prevention engineer on the Division Staff, the converters
emit gasses at about 725 degrees Fahrenheit - some 275 degrees hotter than those (that used to come)
from conventional auto exhaust systems.
Dry grass ignites at 525 degrees under summer conditions; accordingly drivers of late model cars and
trucks should be wary when they drive through grassy fields-- and doubly so, when stopped, with their
engines running. (Boulder Gazette via AFMS Newsletter.)
(If you should cause a fire or find one spreading, call for help spread the word to others in the area and
then attempt to prevent it's spread. If it has spread over too wide an area or can not be contained,
evacuate the area and let the professionals handle the fire. Do not become cut off and isolated where
the fire, and or smoke, can overcome you.)
With all this in mind, have a great, safe fall and early winter collecting season, free from fires.
Cold Weather Safety
SAFETY FIRST
by Bill Klose EFMLS Safety Chairman
Submitted for the November 2001 EFMLS News
SAFETY FIRST by Bill Klose, EFMLS Safety Chairperson
By the end of November, most areas will have had their first frost and "Indian Summer" and maybe even
their first snow storm of the season, but the undaunted rockhound will continue to venture out until the
ground is frozen or snow covered. Chapter 16 of the "American Federation of Mineralogical Societies
SAFETY MANUAL" deals with two of winters knockout punches, frost bite and hypothermia and will be
repeated here with a few of my comments in brackets where appropriate.
FROST BITE
"Frost bit" is a condition characterized by the (cutting off of circulation to and possible) destruction of
superficial tissues, resulting from exposure to cold-- especially moist cold (Especially in the extremities,
such as hands, feet, ears, nose, and other exposed areas of the body). (The Wind (wind chill factor) can
add to the effects of cold temperatures, even when above freezing.) (Symptoms of frost bite begin as a
prickly feeling on exposed areas of the skin followed by numbness and waxy looking patches.) Blanching
or redness (erthema) of the affected area is prominent initially. Later, edema and superficial blisters
develop and may brake down and form superficial ulcers (and the skin dies and falls off) or gangrene.
Severe pain is associated with this condition.
"TREATMENT": Prevention is more important by keeping warm and avoiding undue exposure to cold
without adequate protection. (The best protection is to keep warm, keep moving, and keep dry. Dress in
loose layers of warm, waterproof clothing, that cover exposed areas. Warm gloves and a hat are
essential. Up to 80% of the bodies warmth can be lost through an uncovered head.)
"ACTIVE TREATMENT": The affected parts are to be well dried and wrapped in protective cloth or cotton,
(or tuck the hands into the armpits) and allowed to gradually come up to normal or room temperature.
Application of heat or direct cold is contraindicated. (Do not rub or apply snow to the frost-bitten area.
The affected area can be placed in water a little above body temperature (not above 104 degrees F). Do
not place hands under running water, as there will not be any feeling initially, so they could become
burned. As the frost-bitten area "thaws" it is normal to feel pain or a burning sensation.) If blister
formation results (do not break them), or frost bite is severe, medical attention should be sought.
HYPOTHERMIA
"MOUNTAIN SICKNESS": Exposure to cold is the precipitating factor. The main contributory factors may
be contact with wetness or inadequate clothing. Predisposing factors may be alcoholism, or an
underlying vascular or systemic disease (such as Diabetes or poor circulation. People taking beta
blockers to lower blood pressure are especially at risk). The young and the old are especially vulnerable.
"SYMPTOMS" (The symptoms are initially uncontrollable shivering with pale and numb skin) Abnormal
behavior, weakness, stumbling and falling, leading eventually to collapse and stupor. (Hypothermia is
the loss of body temperature and can be life threatening.) (In severe cases, the person will go
unconscious, and will have shallow breath and erratic heartbeat, and then the pulse weakens and
slows.) "Watch your companion" on field trips!
"TREATMENT": (At the first signs of hypothermia, take the victim to a warm, dry place and give them hot
liquids (not alcohol).) Clear and maintain airway, if patient is unconscious. Prevent further heat loss by
blankets, warm rocks, or a companion in bed with the victim. A slow return to normal temperature, is
advisable. (Get medical attention as soon as possible if the symptoms have gone beyond the shivering
stage.)
(Do not collect alone in cold weather and carry a cell phone with you if possible for emergencies. Let
someone know where you are going and when you will return. Enjoy your cold weather collecting or
other activities safely.)
Copyrights of the article(s) are retained by the author(s). Permission is given by the author for
reprinting in publications of clubs or societies that are affiliated with the AFMS for non-commercial
purposes with proper attribution to the author and its publication. Articles must be published in their
entirety and its meaning not changed. For other usage, the author(s) must be contacted for approval.
This information is provided for your reading enjoyment and the AFMS can not guarantee the accuracy
and completeness of the information contained therein. The opinions expressed are those of the
author and may or may not represent those of the AFMS.
Safety Tips from the American Opal Society
All of the following articles were written for the Opal Express, bulletin of the American Opal Society in
Anaheim CA by:
Cathy Gaber and Bruce Gaber
Contents:
Put out that Fire
Scottish Two-Step
Do or Die (Toxicity)
Acid into Water
Hot, Hot, Hot
The Angle of Repose
Water, water everywhere...
Struck by Lightning, NOT
Maybe Later Than You Think (Medication)
Rock and Roll - Is Your Vehicle Ready?
Hatchet Job
Take it off, take it all off
The Poisonous Trio
Space in your suitcase flying
Put out that Fire
by Cathy Gaber
Opal Express, Bulletin of the American Opal Society
The best advice about putting out fires is to make sure they don't happen in the first place. Even in the
safest circumstances though, fires ignite anyway. The next line of defense is a smoke alarm. Each home
should have one on every level and each homeowner should check it monthly to make sure it is still
working. Replace the batteries when Daylight Savings time changes in the spring and fall. Replace the
whole alarm unit every 10 years.
So, worst case scenario, you have a fire to deal with. What do you do? First, you need to know what kind
of a fire it is and have the right fire extinguisher on hand. The basic principle for extinguishing a fire is
actually to suffocate it, to deprive the fire of oxygen so it can no longer burn. Common substances such
as water, baking soda and sand have their uses in putting out fires, but it is very important to use the
right substance. For instance, never use water on an electrical fire as the water can cause the fire to
spread. Baking soda is the best choice for your burning toaster (believe me, I've used it several times).
On a camping trip, water may work for an out of control camp fire, but sand or even dirt will do the trick
too.
Another alternative is commercial fire extinguishers. They are inexpensive and, used properly, very
effective. The first caveats though are to make sure that you have the right kind of extinguisher for a
specific fire and to know how to work the extinguisher. It is worth sacrificing an extinguisher just for
practice to make sure that everyone in the family is comfortable with its use. Commercial extinguishers
also require regular maintenance (as outlined in the user's manual) to maintain their efficacy.
There are four basic kinds of fires. Class A refers to fires involving wood, paper, cloth, leaves, etc. Fires
involving flammable liquids, gas, oil, oil based paints and grease are Class B fires. Electrical fires are Class
C, and Class D covers metals such as magnesium, potassium and sodium. No single fire extinguisher is
right for all classes, though some brands work for up to three classes (A-C). You need to assess your
likelihood of a potential fire based on what kind of materials you have in your home or workshop, so
that you know what kind of extinguishers to buy. Classes A and C are a possibility almost anywhere,
while Class B may be restricted to the kitchen, garage and workshop. An appropriate extinguisher should
be placed in each room.
The effective ingredient in a Class A fire extinguisher is usually water based. Compressed air expels the
water. Carbon dioxide, dry chemical and aqueous film forming foam are the choices in Class B
extinguishers. They work to exclude or displace oxygen and thereby "starve" the fire. Class C agents
must be electrically non-conductive. Carbon dioxide is often preferred as it leaves no residue, but other
dry chemicals such as compressed nitrogen can also be used. A heat absorbing, non-reactive
extinguishing medium is used for Class D fires. The dry powders cover the burning metal to create a
smothering effect.
These class codes are listed on the extinguisher along with a number that denotes the relative amount
of the extinguisher's fire fighting power. A rating of 20 means that the extinguisher can control 20 times
more fire than one with a rating of one. Ask how long the extinguisher will expel the effective agent. A
few seconds is probably not enough. Those with greater power generally weigh more, so you want to
also make sure that you can handle the weight and still be able to control the action.
Now that you have purchased the appropriate extinguishers, some thought needs to be given to their
placement. They should be within easy reach, in plain view (not in a cupboard for instance), but not in
the reach of children too young to properly use them. They should also be located somewhere that
leaves a clear exit for the user in case the fire can not be controlled. Do not store them near a stove,
heater or fireplace.
If you ever need to actually use a fire extinguisher, remember the acronym PASS. 1) Pull the pin (to
activate the device), 2) Aim low, toward the base of the fire, 3) Squeeze the lever to eject the
extinguishing agent (some devices have a button to push instead), and 4) Sweep the extinguisher from
side to side until the fire is out. Then, after you are sure the situation is under control, don't forget to
replace or recharge your extinguisher.
If your fire is even remotely likely to get out of control, clear people out of the area, find your escape
route, and dial 911!
Scottish Two-Step
By Cathy Gaber
Opal Express, Bulletin of the American Opal Society
If your shop is a tangle of cords,
And you step like the dance of the swords,
Your path should be clear,
So you can work without fear,
Making cabs that will earn you awards.
Do or Die
by Cathy Gaber
Opal Express, Bulletin of the American Opal Society
What you do not know about a mineral can hurt you. You can not always tell by looking whether or not
a mineral contains harmful elements, or if it is radioactive or if it's fumes or dust might be deadly. Most
minerals are completely harmless, but with a few simple precautions you can protect yourself from
those with potentially deadly effects.
Elements such as lead, mercury, arsenic, uranium, antimony and cadmium are toxic. Without proper
identification, you can never be sure if you might be handling some of these potentially dangerous
substances. Never lick an unidentified rock, and always wash your hands after handling one. Wear
gloves if there is any suspicion that a specimen may contain harmful elements.
Three methods can be used to spot some hazardous minerals. Color is one indicator. If a specimen is an
unnatural looking neon yellow, yellow orange or green (such as tyuyamunite, realgar, autunite and
torbernite), it is probably a radioactive mineral. Radioactivity, which is found in over 200 minerals, can
be easily detected with a geiger counter. Even though most fluorescent minerals are not radioactive,
sometimes fluorescence can be an indicator, as the radioactive agent (such as uranium salts) can be
fluorescent. Generally, only long term exposure or ingestion would cause problems, but, as the guys at
the Smithsonian say, don't put them in your pockets either. Radioactivity can affect fertility in men.
Unless you work extensively with quartz, crystobalite, tridymite or quartz bearing rocks like granite;
asbestos minerals (amosite, chrysotile, tremolite, actinolite, anthophyllite and crocidolite); or coal, you
are unlikely to be at risk for silicosis, asbestosis or black lung. The hazard from these and other minerals
is in the airborne particles that get caught in the lungs or migrate to other areas of the body. Lapidaries
should work in a well ventilated space, and they should be especially concerned with avoiding the fumes
from working with materials like malachite, natural cinnabar and many shells. Wearing masks can help
too. When working any new material, always check John Sinkankas' Gemstone and Mineral Data Book
for precautions and possible toxicity. Be safe not sorry.
Acid into Water
By Bruce and Cathy Gaber
Opal Express, Bulletin of the American Opal Society
If you should ever add water to acid,
Don't expect a reaction that's placid.
You'll know in a flash,
By the violent splash,
That your project should come to a skid
Hot, Hot, Hot
by Cathy Gaber
Opal Express, Bulletin of the American Opal Society
If, in spite of your best precautions, you or your companions develop symptoms of heat related illness,
these are the symptoms to watch for and the suggestions to recovery. Ample fluids are key.
Heat cramps in the arms, legs or stomach, which are due to loss of electrolytes, can be caused by heavy
sweating. Recommendations: replenish body fluids with water and electrolyte rich drinks; avoid salt,
caffeine and alcohol which exacerbate dehydration; and rest.
Heat exhaustion is caused when an insufficiency of body fluid causes the surface blood vessels to
collapse while trying to expand to help cool off the body. Symptoms include weakness, anxiousness,
dizziness, loss of coordination, sweating and possible loss of consciousness. Recommendations: Move to
a cooler, shadier spot; lie down and elevate the feet to help restore blood volume; loosen clothing; place
a wet cloth on the forehead; and drink electrolyte replacing drinks.
Heat stroke, the most serious of these conditions, is caused when the body is depleted of water and salt,
and body temperature rises to 103 degrees or higher. Other symptoms include a lack of sweat; hot, red,
dry skin; a rapid pulse; difficulty breathing; and constricted pupils. Recommendations: call 911; cool off
the victim as fast as possible by immersion in cool water, swaddling in wet cloths, dousing with cool
water or by applying ice.
The Angle of Repose
by Cathy Gaber
Opal Express, Bulletin of the American Opal Society
No, the angle of repose has nothing to do with taking a nap (although sometimes a nap is a good safety
precaution too!). The angle of repose is a geological term referring to the slope of earth materials at
rest. We need to understand it in order to avoid landslides and avalanches.
A pile of material such as sand, dirt or gravel will always have the same angle of repose as a pile of
similar composition. The degree of the angle is fixed for each material. Larger, irregular or wet materials
(except snow) have a steeper angle, up to about 40 degrees, while sand maintains an angle of about 25
degrees, and clay, with its even finer particles, would be at rest at even less of an angle. You can
demonstrate this at home even if you don't have any sand or gravel; compare mounds of sugar and rice.
You can not increase the angle and still maintain stability no matter how hard you try.
Probably most of us do not have to worry too much about avalanches, but snow pack works much the
same way. Dry snow has a higher angle of repose and the angle can be much higher the colder the
temperature. Other factors such as centrifugal forces and wall friction also come into play, but when
snow starts to melt, increasing the moisture content, the angle decreases and the snow will eventually
start to move.
As long as the dirt or snow is at the angle of repose, it is not a threat to our safety, but as conditions
change, warmer weather, rain or disturbing the environment by walking, digging or earthquakes, the
material is not likely to remain stable. Mixed sand, gravel, etc. may fall into several angles of repose
depending on which particles are dominant in any strata, which makes them particularly unpredictable.
Knowing how these materials may shift can help you establish a position of safety if working in this kind
of environment. Just remember that the earth will do whatever it can to reestablish the angle of repose,
the slope at which it feels "comfortable" and equilibrium is possible.
Water, water everywhere...
By Cathy Gaber
Opal Express, Bulletin of the American Opal Society
You've heard it, probably even said it "Water, water everywhere and nary a drop to drink". Most of the
time we take clean, safe drinking water for granted and figure that we can always get bottled water if
we need it, but in emergency situations at home or in the field, it doesn't hurt to have some idea of how
to prepare drinking water. Never drink water directly out of a lake, stream, etc. unless you want to risk
endangering your health through the ingestion of pesticides, parasites, animal waste and other
pollutants.
One of the most effective steps in purifying water is boiling for one full minute. Start with clean looking
and clean smelling water if at all possible. If the water is cloudy, filter it first through several layers of
clean cloth. Once the water is boiled, it is bacterially safe to drink and should be stored in clean noncorrosive containers. If the flatness of boiled water does not appeal to you. The water can be aerated by
pouring it back and forth several times between two containers. Letting it sit for several hours or adding
a very small pinch of salt may also help.
Chemical treatment with chlorine or iodine can be used when boiling is unfeasible. Both work best in
warm water and are not really recommended as effective for surface waters. A rough formula for using
chlorine bleach is 10 drops per quart (double for cloudy water), mix and let sit 30 minutes. The water
should have a slight chlorine smell. If not, repeat with half the bleach. If it smells too much like chlorine,
let it sit for several hours or aerate as above. Iodine from your first aid kit can be used at the rate of 5
drops per quart (again double for cloudy water) with a 30 minute resting period. Chlorine or iodine
tablets can also be purchased at sporting goods stores. Follow the package directions.
Just because you are in a foreign country, do not think the same methods don't apply. An adage for
travel is "Don't drink the water". This is not a joke, and the problem is not confined to drinking the
water. Do not use ice in your drinks, brush your teeth, wash your food or cook anything to less than
boiling unless you are sure the water is safe. You may not have access to a stove or be able to build a
fire, but if you have electricity, an inexpensive immersion heater can be used. It takes patience, and you
can't boil much water at a time, but it is effective. If water is only filtered, it should definitely still be
boiled. The chemicals above can also be used. One of my favorite stories about traveling in India came
from a very proper English school teacher. Whenever she was uncertain if the water would be safe to
drink, she had an ingenious solution for brushing her teeth without using water. She used gin!
For more detailed information, check out <http://www.epa.gov/OGWDW/>
Struck by Lightning, NOT
by Cathy Gaber
Opal Express, Bulletin of the American Opal Society
Both water and meadows draw lightning
whose effects can be found very frightning.
Don't stay under a tree,
when it is better to flee
Safe at home watching landscapes abrightening.
Maybe Later Than You Think
by Cathy Gaber
Opal Express, Bulletin of the American Opal Society
Anytime you travel or go on a field trip, don't assume you are going to return home on time. Airlines are
notorious for canceled and delayed flights, but trains can also be late and cars, trucks, motorcycles and
even bicycles can breakdown preventing a timely return. You do not want to be without your
medications in situations like this. Factors such how far you are traveling, how reliable is the method of
transportation, how remote is the destination or how likely is the weather to cause problems dictate
whether having extra medications for one day or several is indicated.
Even for what is expected to be a day trip, it is always prudent to take an extra dose of any medication
that is taken daily, such as medicines for hypertension, heart disease or diabetes. On a longer trip take
at least one extra dose more than you expect to need. If there is any chance that water will not be
available for those medications which need to be taken with water, then make sure you pack water.
Likewise, some medicines need to be taken with food, so you need to take appropriate food.
Other medications that might be wise to include are pain killers, such as aspirin, tylenol or ibuprofen,
cold medications, antacids, antibiotic cream, diarrhea medicines, and any other medicines, prescription
or not, that you might typically use at home. If you are subject to anaphylactic shock, don't forget a bee
sting kit, and in some areas, a snake bite kit could come in very handy.
Not having many of these medications available for a day or two might not be life threatening, but
others may make a big difference to your health or comfort. The small effort to pack these items will not
only bring peace of mind but may possibly save your life.
Rock and Roll - Is Your Vehicle Ready?
by Cathy Gaber
Opal Express, Bulletin of the American Opal Society
You're ready for your field trip, you have your tools, safety equipment, water, etc. packed and you've
made plans for what to do with the great minerals or rough you will find. Have you given any thought to
getting your vehicle ready for the trip too?
Nothing replaces regular maintenance as one of the best safeguards to a car or truck's continued
reliable service, but before a trip, there are a number of things that should be specifically checked. Tires
should be examined for bald spots and appropriate air pressure. A simple gauge that can be kept in the
glove compartment is an easy way to test the latter. Car fluids should also be checked. Be sure the oil,
radiator fluid, battery water and window wash fluid are at the proper levels, and don't forget gas! It
might also be a wise idea to carry extra containers of all of these fluids, especially if you will be any
distance from "civilization". It doesn't hurt to clean the battery contacts, and if there is any doubt about
the battery's condition, replace it.
To be really prepared, there are a number of useful items to pack in your vehicle. Jumper cables, a tire
patch kit, a flashlight, flares, matches, a shovel and kitty litter (to be used to increase traction) are all
practical things to have. A real spare tire is definitely preferable to a "toy" temporary tire which will not
hold up over long distances or rough terrain. None of these things will do you any good though if you do
not know how to use them. Learn to change a tire or patch one, know how to use jumper cables and
how to replace your vehicle fluids. A seldom needed item, a winch, could be a real life saver if you do
any off road driving especially in wet, boggy terrain.
Another potential hazard to watch for especially in rough terrain is your vehicle's clearance capabilities.
A low clearance family sedan, especially weighted down with a few hundred pounds of freshly collected
rock, runs the danger of bottoming out, possibly damaging the suspension or puncturing the oil pan.
When in doubt, don't put you or your vehicle at risk.
For your own comfort, food, water and a blanket are also sensible additions. For peace of mind, you
should also have your insurance provider's and roadside service's phone numbers handy. Last but not
least, use your seatbelt.
There is nothing worse than a field trip gone unnecessarily bad by negligent vehicle preparation. It only
takes a few minutes to give your car or truck the best possible chance to carry you safely and
comfortably to and from your destination.
Hatchet Job
by Bruce and Cathy Gaber
Opal Express, Bulletin of the American Opal Society
There once was a fellow named Ratchet,
Who tried to break rocks with a hatchet.
But don't be a fool
And use the right tool.
You don't want to catch it like Ratchet!
Take it off, take it all off
By Cathy Gaber
Opal Express, Bulletin of the American Opal Society
When you start working on a flat lap, a lapidary wheel, a polishing buff or a saw, you know what you
plan to take off of your slab or nodule. Do you also think about what you should take off of yourself to
make the project a safer one? Take off all of your jewelry. Necklaces may be obvious, but even a flat,
tight ring has the potential to get snagged by the machinery. Take off any loose clothing, a tie (heaven
forbid you would be wearing one in the shop in the first place!), a scarf, long open sleeves, etc. You
probably can't take off your hair, but you should secure it safely out of the way.
After you've taken it off, what do you want to add on? Safety glasses are always a must, an apron is
highly recommended. Rubber and leather aprons give even more protection. For some tasks, gloves
might even come in handy.
Lastly, if you are interrupted or distracted, always take your work off the machine, not your eyes off of
the work!
The Poisonous Trio
by Cathy Gaber
Opal Express, Bulletin of the American Opal Society
"Leaves of three, let them be." Can you recognize the poisonous trio - ivy, oak and sumac? You should,
even if you have never been allergic. Experts at the American Academy of Dermatology report that
approximately 85 percent of the population will develop an allergic reaction to poison ivy, oak or sumac
if exposed to them.
The active ingredient that causes the contact dermatitis is an oil called urushiol. It can remain an irritant
for a year or more on clothing or tools if not washed off. Urushiol can become airborne if the plants are
burned, potentially causing serious harm to eyes, throat and lungs, so mind your campfire well.
Poison ivy has slightly glossy green leaves that grow in groups of three. The leaf shape may vary, and the
plant may grow as a vine or as a low shrub. The plant may produce yellow-green flowers and greenish
white berries that resemble a peeled orange. In winter, it can also be recognized as a hairy red vine on
trees. Poison ivy can be found throughout the United States, although it is most common in the eastern
and central portions.
Poison oak looks similar although it is usually more shrub-like, and its leaves are shaped somewhat like
oak leaves. The hairy undersides of the leaves are always a much lighter green than the surface. The
plant may develop hanging clusters of greenish or creamy white berries, although many plants bear no
fruit. Poison oak grows on the west coast of North America.
Poison sumac grows mainly in uninhabited areas, especially in swampy locations. It grows to about 5 or
6 feet high, with 7 to 13 leaflets of elongated leaves arranged in pairs, with a single leaflet at the end of
the midrib. Poison sumac can be distinguished from harmless sumacs by its drooping clusters of green
berries. Harmless sumacs have red, upright berry clusters.
There is no effective prevention but avoidance. Long pants, long sleeves, gloves, etc. will help protect
your skin. For best results, wash contaminated skin within 5 minutes with soap and water. Remember to
wash clothes and tools as soon as possible. Pet fur can carry the oil too, so if Fido went with you, he'll
need a bath too.
If you do get a rash, a doctor can prescribe oral antihistamines or corticosteroids and corticosteroid
lotions and skin creams.
Space in your suitcase flying
by Cathy Gaber
Opal Express, Bulletin of the American Opal Society
Give some thought to the items you pack,
'Cause some may not need to come back.
So toss those old socks,
To make room for your rocks,
And your suitcase still fits on the rack.
Copyrights of the article(s) are retained by the author(s). Permission is given by the author for
reprinting in publications of clubs or societies that are affiliated with the AFMS for non-commercial
purposes with proper attribution to the author and its publication. Articles must be published in their
entirety and its meaning not changed. For other usage, the author(s) must be contacted for approval.
This information is provided for your reading enjoyment and the AFMS can not guarantee the accuracy
and completeness of the information contained therein. The opinions expressed are those of the
author and may or may not represent those of the AFMS.
Last Revised on January 16, 2011
Safety Tips from the RMFMS
All of the following articles were written by:
Mel Albright
AFMS Safety Chairman
RMFMS Safety Chairman
Contents:
Electricity in shop
Eye safety
Snakes, bugs and varmints
Rotary tools
Hammering and picking
Working on a slope or in a hole
Sawing and burning
Breathing
Sunshine
Fires
Chemicals
Lightening
Equipment
Convoy
Electricity in shop
ZAP - ZAP - YIPES
by Mel Albright - RMFMS Safety Chairman
You are peacefully working away in your rock shop. You reach over and touch the cabbing machine (or
trim saw or rotary tool, or faceting machine, or whatever) when - ZAP - ZAP - electric shock hits. If you're
lucky, you say YIPES and turn loose and unplug the appliance. If you're not lucky, the electricity surges
through you down to your foot and into the ground and your spouse finds your body sometime later.
Exaggeration? - Unfortunately, no.
A real, common danger? - Unfortunately, yes.
So, what should you do? - Several things.
First and most important is to check ALL the wiring on ALL your machinery ALL the way from the plug to
the other end. AND DO IT OFTEN. Frayed? Replace it. Loose? Tighten it. Cracked so water can enter?
Replace it. Badly bent where it goes through or under? Replace it. And, if you get a "tingle" from the tool
body itself - DO NOT USE IT until it's repaired or replaced.
Second, you should make sure that you are on an insulated surface while you are working. A rubber or
vinyl mat. A wooden bench - not metal. A wooden stool, not metal. A wooden floor - ALWAYS kept dry.
ANY other floor - ALWAYS kept dry. So, if you touch a short, you'll get a tingle, not a zap.
Third, make sure you have a grounded system and that you are using it. Modern wiring must have three
wires - two carrying electricity and a grounding prong. If you don't have that, you can be in danger. If
you are using an adapter to bypass the grounding prong, you can be in danger. Re-wire and ground the
tool.
Finally, and best of all, install a ground fault interrupter on your system. These may either be placed on
the circuits in your main breaker box by an electrician or either you or an electrician can replace the plug
receptacle in the wall with one - and they are NOT very expensive. What these do is turn off the
electricity a fraction of a second after a short occurs - so, if you're in the short circuit, it acts before you
are shocked - and saves your life or a bad burn.
Most important - NOW is the time to think about this - not after you're shocked (or killed).
Eye safety
TAP - TAP - TAP
by Mel Albright - RMFMS Safety Chairman
You're walking down the street. Tap, tap, tap - you test ahead with your cane to "see" what obstacles
there might be. You can't see because you were careless for a milli-second while working with your
hobby.
Sound like fun? Of course not - but it happens every year - to people just like you. Just a short spell of
carelessness or one shortcut or one chance and it's all over. Just like that.
Where in our hobby might we be in danger of having something hurt our eyes? With tools - hand or
power or with chemical liquids or with glues.
What tools? How? Well, start with the simplest - a rock pick or hammer. A blow from one on a rock can
propel rock fragments into your eyes at a very high speed. A chisel can come out of a crack when hit and
fly towards your eyes. Always use eye protection when hitting anything with anything. Any rotary tool
can throw whatever touches it away at high speed. We've all had cabbing machines "grab" a cab and
throw it out. A good machine is shielded and turns away from you as you use it. But, even then, things
can be thrown outward and upward towards you - and your eyes. A rotary tool is being used - you
"catch" on an edge - the tool and your hand are thrown up towards your face. You are leaning over close
to watch your progress. That's all. Or, the rotary tool becomes fatigued and the shaft parts. The wheel
and the broken shaft fly off. Towards your eyes? When it happened to me, the little rubber wheel
dented the wall as if I had taken a hammer and hit the wall with all my might - but the broken shaft cut
my hand first.
Liquids can splatter when mixed, when hit, or when heated - and many of them will seriously damage
your eyes. There is a reminder for acid and water - AAA - ALWAYS ADD ACID to water. If you add water
to acid, the heat of reaction of the mixing heats the water to steam and it explodes and throws acid all
over - not mildly, but with great force - even a little bit of water. Flux hidden under a piece of metal
while soldering can turn to steam and throw the metal out a great speed - or - as every silversmith
knows - simply splutter and pop as it warms throwing particles out as it does. Cleaning fluids - lye,
acetone, gasoline(yes, really), solvents, etc. can splash and ruin an eye.
Some glues have very dangerous chemicals included - one very common one and most dangerous for
your eyes is epoxy hardener - get some on your hand, rub your eye, that's all it takes. Others also can
cause eye damage, so make sure you keep your hands away from your eyes while working with glues.
Protection? Visors offer a little, safety glasses offer a lot (WalMart sells them), face shields offer a whole
lot (WalMart again). Your every-day glasses offer almost none although your dealer will call them safety
glasses. Get some and USE THEM EVERY TIME - WITHOUT EXCEPTION. No job is too short for an accident
not to happen.
Snakes, bugs and varmints
RATTLE - RATTLE
by Mel Albright - RMFMS Safety Chairman
When we are out on field trips, we should remember that we are not alone. We are visiting the home of
a great number of other critters - some of whom - snakes, bugs, and varmints - are not real friendly.
They even attack to protect themselves and their homes or because they are ill.
Rattlesnakes are everyones big worry, of course. With some reason, too. Their bite can be very
dangerous. And, contrary to myth, they don't always rattle to warn you before they bite. Of course,
there are other poisonous snakes too - the copperhead, the cottonmouth water moccasin, the coral
snake. And a whole bunch of harmless ones, too. The only way out from meeting one of these snakes
too closely is to not get where they are. When you are where they might be, you must ALWAYS 'look
before you leap'. Before you take a step, look ahead. Before you step over a rock (or branch, or trunk, or
whatever), look on the other side to see who's lying there. Before you stick your hand in a hole or
behind a rock, poke around with a stick to see if it is occupied. Always go slow, so you won't "run" into a
snake. And - if bitten, go immediately to a hospital. ALL the old first aid we heard about as kids is NO
LONGER RECOMMENDED!
Scorpions are another danger. These range from as dangerous as a bumble bee to deadly as you go from
the oak woods to the dessert. Remember, these are shy creatures. They like to hide in cracks, crevices,
under rocks, under brush, in brick pile holes, in concrete blocks, in your unattended shoes, in
unattended gloves, in bedrolls, or under picnic baskets - almost anywhere. So, if you stick your hands or
feet into hiding places without looking first, you may get stung. Another thing, never assume a place is
too small for one - they can squeeze into and through unbelievably small cracks. So - LOOK FIRST - then
reach - even if you have spotted an egg size facet grade ruby. Again, if stung, it's hospital time.
Ticks, mosquitoes, flies, 'can't see-ums', chiggers and other bugs are, for the most part, irritating
nuisances. They can be avoided through proper use of bug repellants and flowers of sulfur. And should
be. Tick bites should be closely watched after the tick is removed. If they don't clear up immediately,
check with your doctor - they may have been carrying Lyme's disease - potentially fatal if not treated.
Finally, if you see an animal - skunk, fox, squirrel, rabbit, whatever - that isn't acting naturally, then RUN
the other way. One symptom of rabies is for animals to become unafraid of predators - including you.
Another is for them to change normal habits- like nocturnal animals wandering around during the day.
Don't make friends, feed, or approach wild animals. Avoid them.
Rotary tools
HUMM - HUMM - JERK
by Mel Albright - RMFMS Safety Chairman
In rock hounding, our world is full of machines that go round and round - cabbing machines, rotary tools,
faceting machines, saws, grinders, vacuum pumps, buffing wheels, and more. In addition to going round
and round, many of these machines have belts and pulleys attached that also go round.
Every one is trying to tear off your finger - if you'll just be careless enough. Or grab your shirt (or blouse)
and pull you into the works so you are nose-to-nose with a saw blade or grinding wheel or whatever. Or
grab a sleeve and pull your arm into a pretzel. Or grab other things and do unpleasant things to them.
Naturally, none of these things will ever happen to you since you are lucky. But the rest of us need to
learn how to develop ways of working that prevent such happenings.
First, and most commonly ignored, NEVER wear a ring while working with rotary equipment. Any snag
that develops may grab a ring and jerk. And a ring is very firmly attached to your finger. So a ring is a
very dangerous thing. If you don't believe this, try putting rough material into a buffer and feel, hear,
and watch the violent action when the buffer 'grabs' the object. But wear a face shield if you try this - it's
not worth losing an eye over.
Second, never work around rotary equipment with long sleeves on. They can catch on the rotary part (or
under a belt on a V drive), wind up your sleeve and pull your arm into the machinery. Multiple
compound bone breaks may be the worst you get from a small motor. A lost arm may result with a
larger motor.
Third, never wear loose, baggy clothes - especially shirt or blouse - that puff out where they may be
caught in the machinery. Again, they can pull you into the machinery - and often it is your face that
reaches the machinery first - and the unpleasant possibilities are obvious.
Finally, the hazards of wearing gloves of any kind are also obvious.
Creating beautiful things with power tools is fun and absorbing. Getting caught can not be pleasant.
Dress right and be safe.
Hammering and picking
BANG - BANG - WHIZZ
by Mel Albright - RMFMS Safety Chairman
Hammers and picks and axes are an important part of our hobby. We use them to explore, to check out
a rock, to powder rocks, to form silver, to chisel loose samples, to make arrowheads, to cut firewood,
and for a lot of other things. Yet, these simple tools can be very dangerous on occasion.
The most obvious and most common danger is simply to hit ourselves with them instead of a rock or log
or chisel or metal piece or nugget. Why in the world does this happen? Not because we are all klutzes in fact, almost never. Most often, it is because something moves too soon or as it is hit. Your feet shift
because you are off balance when you swing the tool. Your holding hand moves because you didn't have
a firm grip on what you are swinging at. Your attention is distracted as you swing (Suzie hollers
'Mommie'.). Or, your tool doesn't hit squarely and slides off into your finger, or leg, or foot. So the
obvious ways not to hit your finger or your leg, or your foot is to be sure you are balanced, to make sure
the item to be hit cannot move before or as it is hit, and, if at all possible, not to have fingers, legs, feet,
or any other part of you where the tool will hit it if something does go wrong.
Another danger from hitting things is that the tool may bounce back into your face. The force you apply
must go somewhere and some part of it returns to the tool so that it bounces. If your face happens to be
in the way when it does, teeth or eyes may suffer - or bones. So, when swinging such a tool, another
safety practice is to make your swing so that any recoil will push the tool sideways away from you.
An obvious danger from the use of these simple tools is that chips may fly - of rocks, or wood, or pieces
of metal. If you study the physics involved in hitting something, you will find that the forces may direct
the chip at high speed BACK IN THE DIRECTION FROM WHICH THE BLOW CAME. Again, if your eyes are
in the way, you have a bad problem.
Finally, remember that what you hit may flip out from the force of the blow if you don't hit it dead
center. While this most often results in a high speed missile sideways, it can also flip UP (as in tiddley
winks) and hit you. So, place the object so if it does flip, it will go away from you and so that if it flips up,
it'll go over your shoulder.
All simple ideas? Yes. All important? You Bet.
Holes and banks
SLIP - SLIDE
by Mel Albright - RMFMS Safety Chairman
Did you ever hear about the "angle of repose"? No, it's not how you stretch out when you want to rest
or sleep. It is an important factor in the design of earth or rock structures - and what keeps you safe or
puts you in danger when you are on a field trip. Simply, the term means that, for each material - rock or
sand or earth or grain or any other mixture of particles - there is a slope, or angle, at which material
starts sliding down a bank. If the pile is at a lower angle, the bank is stable. If the pile is at a higher angle,
the bank is unstable - and may start sliding at any time. You've seen this effect in digging a hole. Stuff
slides back in even as you are trying to dig it out. It is important to note that the slope may not slide until
some outside force triggers it - witness avalanches and landslides.
So, whenever you are digging in a hole, or exploring a bank, or exploring a quarry or mine, or a rock pile
or a tailings dump, you are counting on the angle of repose to keep you safe and not allow you to be
suddenly buried under a bunch of dirt or rocks. And the angle of repose is not constant. Wet material
may slide much easier than dry. So what was safe before the rain is unsafe after the rain. Remember,
too,that ALL tailings and other mine dumps are at their angle of repose because of the way they were
made.
The unfortunate part is that you cannot know whether the material around you is at it's angle of repose
or above it. So, you cannot know if you are safe or whether a blow from your shovel will trigger a slide
or someone walking above you or what. And, almost every day we read or hear about someone dying
because of the failure of a bank - in mines, in quarries, children digging caves, rockhounds hunting rocks,
workmen digging ditches.
So how do you work safely? Well, if you are digging, always dig a hole - NOT a cave (even a little one).
And, although it's far more work, dig the hole with gradually sloping sides. And, if on a rock pile or
tailings dump, be sure there's no one above you who might start a slide. And, if around a bank, test it a
little with a hard blow or two or a "stomp", and, again, be sure there's no one working above you. And,
in every case, wear a safety helmet - the proverbial 'hard hat'. WalMart carries them - and they are not
expensive.
Sawing and burning
BUZZZZZ
by Mel Albright - RMFMS Safety Chairman
Rock Saws are wonderful gadgets. You put a rock in, clamp it, turn on the saw, walk off and do
something else, and later, when you think of it, you go out and start over on the next slab slice. Simple
isn't it? Ain't life grand? All mod. con.
However, with all this convenience comes some safety problems and some economic worries. Both lie in
the rock clamp and the feeding mechanism. Simply put, things can go wrong when least expected.
The biggest worry comes because rocks sometimes work loose from the clamp, turn sideways and seize
the saw blade. On most rock saws, this stops the blade, but not the motor. So, the motor pulley keeps
turning while the drive belt does not. This generates heat which can and has started fires - first the belt,
then the saw oil, then the garage. It happened to a friend of mine. Luckily, the house was saved.
To prevent such a problem from hitting you, always stay where you can hear the saw so that you'll
immediately know if something goes wrong. My friend has a good solution with his new saw in his new
garage. He bought two cheaply kids walky-talkies - tapes the transmitter open on one and sets it by the
saw - keeps the other near himself inside so he can always hear the saw. No worries, now.
The economic problems arise when the saw is not started into the rock properly or when the rock shifts
slightly while being sawed. Many drive mechanisms exert considerable force on the saw. When the
blade tries to cut a side-ways circular path, the drive keeps pushing and you end up with a blade shaped
like a dish - and the opportunity to buy a new one. Eventually, the blade will seize and the fire problem
will appear, but by then it's too late to save the blade. Solution? I start the saw into a cut by hand
pushing the rock into the saw and then pulling it off. I repeat this until I can see the saw blade does not
deflect sideways when the saw first meets the rock. Then I engage the drive mechanism and let the
automatic system complete the cut. Messy, but far less a problem than buying new blades - and maybe
having a fire.
Sometimes, you get a rock that just will not stay in the vise - often, it's Brazilian agate teardrop shaped.
The solution is to enclose the rock in plaster of paris in a square mold and then clamping the cast into
the saw. This also avoids the problems mentioned above.
Breathing
GASP - GASP
by Mel Albright - RMFMS Safety Chairman
All of us enjoy breathing. Some of us know it's not always easy - allergies, hay fever, asthma,
emphysema, or loss of a lung can interfere. Yet many of us in the rockhound hobby blythly ignore the
fact that we often work with materials that are dangerous to breathe or damaging to our lungs or,
sometimes, fatal.
What are these materials?
Fumes from heating or burning are one source. Burning off flux, heating cleaners, burning glues or
paints, heating minerals, burning off wax - these can all produce fumes that are potentially harmful. Any
heating or burning should be done in a well ventilated place, in a protective ventilator hood or outdoors.
The airflow should move from you to your working area to outdoors or some other safe area. A kitchen
stove hood with side walls from the hood to the workbench works great.
Fumes from chemicals are another source. Glues (household, epoxy, etc.), paints, solvents (acetone,
benzene, toluene, terps, odorless solvents), thinners, oxidizers, bleaches, acids (hydrochloric, sulfuric,
nitric, fluoric) and other material we use all release possibly dangerous materials into the air. In fact, we
often identify these things by smell. Some of these things - like benzene - cause problems only if used
often over a long period of time. Others - like hydrogen fluoride (fluoric acid) - cause bad problems
instantly. Again - ventilation is the solution.
Dusts from rocks can also be dangerous. They can cause silicosis (or
pneumonoultramicripicsilicovolcanocobiosis*) such as from too much agate dust over too long a period.
They can be poison such as dust from malachite. Anything we do that is done dry can and does produce
dust - especially grinding. Again ventilation is a solution provided you cannot use water or oil to prevent
dust release. Or wear a good dust mask - WalMart available.
Remember - you get the fresh air first, then it moves to your work, then it goes outside or somewhere
else safe. EVERY time.
* Look it up.
Sunshine
SSSS - SIZZLE
by Mel Albright - RMFMS Safety Chairman
Sunshine is shining. Rockhounds are hunting. And unprotected skin is turning red and burning. In 10 or
15 or 20 years, someone - maybe you - will be saying, "Why oh why didn't I listen to people back then. I
don't want skin cancer. No!"
Skin cancer is the fastest growing form of cancer these days. And most of it harks back to when it was
considered stylish and good looking to have a good tan. In our youth, many of us managed to get
awesome burns. And now we hear that just one bad burn as a child doubles our chance of skin cancer
later in life!
What to do? Wear suitable clothing - hats, dense cloth shirts and pants, no shorts. Apply protective sun
screen to ALL exposed areas when you are going to be outdoors. If possible, stay indoors or in the shade
during the time of greatest danger - 9 AM to 5 PM under daylight savings time.
What is a suitable sunscreen? It is one labeled with a protective factor of 15 or more. The number refers
to a degree of protection - with a 15 factor, you can stay out 15 times as long as usual before you get a
sunburn. NOTICE - it delays - not prevents. So if you normally sunburn in 20 minutes (yes, light skinned
people do), then with a SPF 15 applied, you can stay out 300 minutes (5 hours) before you are
sunburned. Best are waterproof, non-allergenic sprays, creams or lotions.
Are you already in trouble? Do you have an irregularly shaped or varied colored mole anywhere on your
body? Or one which is changing shape or size? Is it 5 mm or more? You may have deadly, fast spreading
melanoma. If so, you'd better have it checked - REAL SOON. Odds of this are 1 in 105 and 22 percent will
die. Do you have rough patches on your skin? Little dry white clumps? Or dry patches? Then you might
have actinic keratomas which can evolve into cancer. Easily treated. Again, get checked - SOON. Basal
cell cancers are small fleshy bumps or nodules. 400,000 people a year get these. If untreated, they will
bleed and crust over again and again. Squamous cell cancers start as nodules or red, scaly patches.
100,000 people a year get these and 2200 die. Obviously, this stuff isn't for fooling around about. Take
action, NOW!
Fire
Hello - 911?
by Mel Albright - RMFMS Safety Chairman
Have you ever considered rockhounding as a fire hazard? Do you ignore the possibility? Do you have 911
memorized? Some spare skin stored up? A wig to replace your natural hair?
Well, maybe we should all slow down and consider what all we have around that might catch fire and
burn. Rocks? Well, no - unless you have some Colorado oil shale. But oils and solvents and glues? You
bet they will.
If I look around my shop, I find acetone (for cleaning off facet material, for releasing epoxy, for releasing
super glue), kerosene, refractive index oil, saw oil, machine oil, super glue, epoxy paint and glue,
household cement (one of the most dangerous), alcohol, and, occasionally, commercial solvents for
various purposes. And the proverbial oily rags. And a wastebasket I haven't emptied for several years.
Every one of these will burn. And I bet you have some I don't have. Some will ignite extremely easily acetone and alcohol for example. And my shop is indoors. Shame on me - not one solvent is in a safety
container. Not one glue is in a fireproof box. And I seldom worry about ventilation when I use these
things. I've been lucky - not careful.
They tell us it takes three things to have a fire - heat, fuel, and oxygen. As I have shown, most all of us
have the fuel. The oxygen is in the air all around us. The only thing needed to start a fire is heat - from a
torch - from a soldering iron - from an alcohol lamp - from a sparking brush on a motor - from smoking from a spark when using a tool (remember flint and steel fire-starter kits?).
Solutions? Keep all solvents outdoors in a safe location. Bring in only small quantities, in a safety
container, and have them in only for the time you need them. Place glues and the like in a metal box
with a lid. Remove oily rags and other combustible materials and discard them. Practice good
housekeeping. Be aware of fire danger and avoid it at all times. And, MOST IMPORTANT, keep a Class
A,B,C fire extinguisher in your shop. The A,B,C ratings mean that it is good for any fire - paper/wood,
electrical, or solvent. Be sure you know how to use it. It's hard to read the instructions while a fire is
burning in your shop.
Chemicals
BOIL AND BUBBLE, TOIL AND TROUBLE
by Mel Albright - RMFMS Safety Chairman
Have your ever thought that most of us own a chemical laboratory? That we work often with hazardous
chemicals? That we'd probably be in trouble if OSHA and EPA could see what we are doing?
First, let me say, as a Chemical Engineer and a life-long Research and Development worker, that a good
deal of OSHA and EPA warning and rules and the like about chemicals are far, far overblown. BUT, some
are not. AND, if you're not an expert, you probably can't tell the difference. If you wonder why I say that
things are overblown, just consider that vinegar odor is listed as being of the same class of hazard as
fumes from hydrochloric acid. A lump of lead on the table poses no danger to you while a lead salt in
solution in something you eat or drink can be dangerous. Other examples abound.
Why say all this? Because, you SHOULD ALWAYS use common sense when working with any chemical
but you SHOULD NOT be so frightened by the government that you are afraid of chemicals. After all,
salt, baking soda, vinegar, your medicine, cough syrup, detergents, cleaners, lye, bleach, and many,
many other common household items ARE chemicals. So, having said all that, I'll cover the most
important items about working with chemicals.
First - READ THE LABEL AND ANY ATTACHED LITERATURE!!! All the really dangerous chemicals are
required to have safety information with them. If you aren't sure, write the manufacturer and ask for
the safety sheet on the chemical. They're required by law to send it to you.
Second - USE COMMON SENSE. Don't ask for troubles you don't need to have. If it smells, use in a
ventilated area or outdoors. Don't get things on your skin if there's no reason to do so - wear gloves. If
it'll splash, protect your eyes.Take care not to spread things around. Getting something on your hand
might be safe, but it might be very dangerous to then rub your eyes with your hand. If you are going to
boil or burnout or apply a torch or otherwise heat a chemical - DO NOT BREATH THE FUMES. EVER!!
ALWAYS ventilate to the outdoors.
Third - DON'T MIX CHEMICALS. Some chemicals are safe by themselves, but react to form dangerous
products when mixed. The classic example is household bleach and bowl cleaner - they react to form
chlorine gas which can burn your eyes, nose, throat and lungs - permanently. Clean up one thing before
starting with the next.
Fourth - STORE CHEMICALS PROPERLY. Keep unused chemicals tightly sealed in their original storage
container. If they offer any fire hazard, keep them outside, away from wooden structures.
Fifth - Remember AAA - ALWAYS ADD ACID to water to dilute it or clean it up. There's a high heat of
solution and, if you do it the other way, the water will be heated and form steam and then 'blow up' and
blow acid all over the place AND YOU.
What chemicals do rockhounds use? A bunch. Too many to list. They include acids, bases, glues,
oxidizers, reducers, fluxes, solvents, pickles, cleaners, and more. Don't be afraid to use them. Do use
them safely and properly. Then you'll have no problems. And, never, never hurry. Think about it before
you start.
Lightening
RUMBLE, RUMBLE - ZAP - BANG
by Mel Albright - RMFMS Safety Chairman
It's a wonderful day. We have gone on a field trip. We're out there, well away from the car when,
rumble, rumble. We look around. There's a big black thunderstorm bearing down on us. It has lots of
lightening. And the lightening is hitting the ground. Panic time? No. Action time? Yes. Don't panic, but
do know what to do.
First, let's talk about an imminent lightening strike. I've been near 3 in my life. Your hair stands on end.
Nearby wiring or fencing has sparks flying around. A sizzling/frying sound can be heard. Then Zap, the
lightening hits. Then you hear it. Then you smell the ozone it created. Then you start shaking. All in a few
seconds.
But you do have time to protect yourself somewhat. On your knees, IMMEDIATELY. Grab your ankles
and bend over as low as you can get - you do NOT want to be the tallest thing around. Do NOT lie flat on
the ground.
If you have a little more time and a little more warning, you can do much better. First choice - take
shelter inside a building or car and stay away from wiring and plumbing. Contrary to rumors - the new
tires do NOT conduct electricity.
Second choice - don't take shelter outdoors under anything - tree, tent, whatever. Put down anything
you are holding that might conduct electricity (like a golf club, geologists pick, etc.). Avoid fences, tracks,
machinery, poles, power or phone lines and water. If you are in a body of water, get out fast. If you are
in a boat, head for shore and get out, fast. If you are in a group of people, spread way out. If you have a
plastic or rubber sheet or raincoat, put it under you. It's much better to get wet.
Thunderstorms can be beautiful and exciting and welcome, but don't forget - they're dangerous, too.
Equipment
RAH-RAH, THE COMPLEATE ROCKHOUND
by Mel Albright - RMFMS Safety Chairman
Are you the type of rockhound that has everything you need for your hobby? Do you consider your
equipment complete. Are you all decked out with all the gadgets you need? May I suggest another
group you may not have? Safety equipment. It's all available at WalMart, at your local hardware store,
at the pesticide store, at local stores specializing in safety. Most are inexpensive. All are inexpensive
compared to the injuries, losses and deaths they may prevent. A few:
Hearing protectors. These vary from foam plugs for your ears to special plugs that allow you to hear
speech to earmuff types like you've seen baggage handlers wear at the airport to super-duper ones that
are electronic and cancel out undesirable sound waves.
Masks. There are a great variety of types. The simplest are simple dust masks - with or without eye
covering. Then there are solvent masks for use when around solvents. And chemical masks for use when
around undesirable chemicals and in spraying pesticides. And special masks for special things - asbestos,
carbon monoxide, chlorine, etc. And the most sophisticated which either supply air with them or have
tubes leading out of the dangerous zone to an air supply.
Shoes.There are safety shoes. They have a steel cap in the toe which protects your feet from heavy
objects hitting them. There are rubber boots to protect you from water and dangerous sludges (or fresh
cement). There are hiking boots especially designed to support your ankles in rough terrain.
Fire Extinguishers. There are three general types - no matter what chemicals are inside them. One (Class
A) is for use only on fires such as paper and wood. One (Class B) is for use on electrical fires. One (Class
C) is for use on solvent type fires. Some fillers are safe for use on more than one class of fire - and will be
labeled for more than one class. Best of all is a Class A,B,C extinguisher which is good for any fire. They
come in several sizes. Little ones are cheap, but often run out too soon. Get a larger one.
Gloves. Gloves do more than stop blisters. They also protect the hands. Best for hand labor are leather
type ones such as the horsehide ones found in farm and garden stores. The other type is plastic or
rubber which will protect the hands from solvents, acids and or hazardous materials.
Eye and Face shields. These come from the simple safety goggle (which will go over your glasses, if
needed.), to safety glasses (NO, your "safety" glasses from the optometrist do NOT qualify - industrial
standard safety glasses are needed.), to face shields which cover both the eyes and the whole face.
Aprons. Cloth aprons protect your clothing from messes. Rubber or plastic ones protect you from
chemical burns and the like.
Hard Hat. Approved hard hats are readily available and work wonders when something falls on your
head. Cold? Wool liners are available.
The compleate rockhound probably has all of these - do you?
Convoy
HONNNK, HONNNK
by Mel Albright - RMFMS Safety Chairman
"Hey, y'all, - we've got us a convoy here."
We rockhounds go on lotsa field trips. Often we go in convoys. Mostly, some- one says "Follow me.", we
all pile into our trucks or cars, and away we go. Sad to say, we're not really thinking about safety. So let's
do that a little while.
First, before you leave, everyone should get full information about where you're going and how you'll
get there. Then, as the convoy goes along, no one will get frantic about losing it and missing out on the
trip. That way, they'll pay attention to what's going on around them instead of worrying. A quick copy of
a hand drawn map or a written directions would be best. Otherwise, talk slow so people can make
notes.
First, let's talk about the leader(s). The first car should contain the guide who knows exactly how to get
there AND the first car should have a CB radio AND the first car should have a cruise control. The last car
should also contain a guide who knows how to get there and a CB radio. That way, the last guy can tell
the lead car when to slow down, to speed up, that there's a problem, or what else is happening. If
someone has car trouble, the "tail-end Charlie" can also make sure they get the help they need and get
on to the field trip if they want to.
The speed of the convoy is important. Ever watch a kid pull a Slinky across the rug while holding one
end? The coils close up and spread out at random. The back end is standing still one minute and then
moving way faster then the front end the next. Well - that's what happens in a convoy. If all the cars
went real slow, this stretching and shrinking might not be too bad. If they went real fast, things might
get out of hand. And, there's always road conditions, traffic lights, stop signs, and other traffic to worry
about. So, the first car should adjust speed according to what's going on. On a 4-lane, speed up (see
below). On a dusty road with no wind blowing, slow way down. After a stop sign or after a traffic light or
after a turn, slow way down until "tail-end Charlie" reports being by the point of change. On the open
road, set the cruise control at 5 to 10 miles per hour under the speed limit. Then the stretching and
shrinking won't get out of hand and no one will worry about getting left behind and the last car won't
have to drive 80 once in a while.
If you're driving in the convoy, there are some things to pay attention to, also - like the plate number
and color of the car you should be behind. Your distance behind the car in front should be as constant as
you can make it. For safety reasons, you should observe the 2-second rule - never be closer than 2
seconds behind (count "one thousand one, one thousand two"). If you see a car behind that isn't in the
convoy and wants to pass, open up your spacing so they won't feel that they have to pass several cars at
once. That way, they probably won't tail-gate you, either. Do you remember the old saying "Monkey
see, monkey do"? That should be you in a convoy. If the car leading you shows brake lights, step on your
brakes. If it shows a turn signal, turn on your signal. If it changes lanes, you change lanes. If it speeds up
or slows down, you do the same. If it pulls to the shoulder, you do too. And if you have a CB, great - tune
in on the conversation, but don't join in unless there's a real emergency.
And when you all get there with no problems, smile and start hunting that find of a lifetime.
Copyrights of the article(s) are retained by the author(s). Permission is given by the author for
reprinting in publications of clubs or societies that are affiliated with the AFMS for non-commercial
purposes with proper attribution to the author and its publication. Articles must be published in their
entirety and its meaning not changed. For other usage, the author(s) must be contacted for approval.
This information is provided for your reading enjoyment and the AFMS can not guarantee the accuracy
and completeness of the information contained therein. The opinions expressed are those of the
author and may or may not represent those of the AFMS.
Last Revised on January 16, 2011
© 1998-2011 American Federation of Mineralogical Societies, Inc.
Send suggestions to webmasteramfed.org