Fancy Weaves & Fabrics

FASH 15 textiles
fancy weaves and fabrics
fancy weaves
fancy fabrics differ from basic fabrics—design,
texture or pattern is an inherent or permanent part of
fabric’s structure
•production process is more involved
•costs are higher
•fabric may have more specialized application
made by changing the interlacing pattern between
the design area and the background
•interlacing pattern—warp yarn position
fancy weaves identification
dobby weaves
small-figured designs that require fewer than 25
different warp arrangements to complete one repeat
of the design
made on a dobby loom
•huck or huck-a-back
•waffle cloth
extra-yarn weaves
additional warp or filling yarns of different colors or
types are woven into the fabric to create a pattern
when not used in the figure, extra yarns float across
the back of fabric
•dotted swiss
•clipped spot
•clipped dot designs
pique weaves
comes from the French word meaning quilted
produces a fabric with ridges, called wales or cords
that are held up by floats on the back—stuffer yarns
are laid under the ridges in better quality pique
fabrics to emphasize the roundness
cords or wales generally run in the lengthwise
fabrics in this group are call pique with the exception
of bedford cord
jacquard weaves
large figured designs that require more than 25
different arrangements of the warp yarns to complete
one repeat design—woven on a jacquard loom
•jacquard tapestry
•wilton rugs
momie weaves
a weave that presents no wale or other distinct
weave effect but gives the fabric appearance of being
sprinkled with small spots or seed—also called
granite or crepe weave
•sand crepe
•granite cloth
•moss crepe
•bark cloth
leno weaves
a weave in which warp yarns do not lie parallel to
each other—warp yarns work in groups (usually in
pairs of two) one yarn of each pair is crossed over
the other before the filling yarn is inserted
all fabrics characterized by open
spaces between the yarns
•mosquito netting
•laundry, fruit & vegetable bags
double cloth
made from three or more sets of yarns—two sides of
double-cloth fabrics usually look different because of
fabrication method
tend to be heavier and have more body than single
1. double cloth—coat fabrics: melton & kersey
2. double weave—apparel and upholstery fabrics:
matelasse & pocket weave
3. double-faced—blankets, double-satin ribbon,
lining fabric & silence cloth
pile weaves
woven pile fabrics are three-dimensional structures
made by weaving an extra set of warp or filling yarns
in the ground yarns to make loops or cut ends—can
be both functional & beautiful
filling pile—always cut pile
warp pile—can be cut or uncut
•crushed velvet
pile weaves
over-wire method—single fabric woven with wires
placed across width of loom
slack-tension pile method—special weaving
arrangement in which 3 picks or fillings are inserted
and beaten up with one motion of the reed
slack-tension weaves
two warp beams are used—yarns on one beam are
held at regular tension and those on other beam are
held at slack tension
as reed beats filling yarn into place, slack yarns
crinkle or buckle to form a puckered stripe—regulartensioned yarns form flat stripe
tapestry weaves
hand-produced, filling-faced, plain-weave fabric—
discontinuous filling yarns arranged so that as the
color in the weave changes, a pattern is created
discontinuous filling means that one filling yarn rarely
travels across the fabric from one side to the other
•one-of-a-kind rugs
•wall hangings
•fiber art pieces
narrow fabrics
encompass diverse range of products that are up to
12 inches wide & made by a variety of techniques
•zipper tapes
•window-blind tapes
•Velcro tapes
•carpet-edge tapes
•safety belts & harnesses