Textiles •Textile Industry Textile Industry The textile industry is an extremely vital part of the overall apparel industries. Textile companies produce fibers, yarns, and fabrics for fashion and other products. The industry is very large and vital to the economy of the United States and other countries. Fabric Production and Distribution There are four main steps in the production of finished fabrics. They are... Fiber Production Yarn Production Fabric (cloth) Manufacturing Fabric Finishing Fiber Production Different raw materials are processed into various hair-like fibers. Agricultural industries supply natural fibers. They come from plants or animals Chemical companies produce manufactured fibers. Most are liquid chemical mixtures that form into thin “threads.” Fabrics o o o Are formed when yarns are combined. Fabrics may be constructed using a variety of different methods such as: Weaving Knitting Felting Fiber Sources Natural- Plant or Animal fiber that grows in nature. Two categories: • Cellulosic Fibers (plant)- Include: Cotton, Linen (hemp), Ramie, Jute, Bamboo • Protein Fibers (animal) Include: Wool, Silk, Leather Fiber Sources (con’t) Manufactured- (Cellulosic) Made from a Natural material called Cellulose. The cellulose is turned into a liquid and poured through a spinneret. Includes: Acetate, Rayon, Triacetate, Lyocell. • Spinneret- Like a showerhead, that sprays out chemicals that harden into long strands called filament fibers. o Fiber Sources (con’t) Manufactured Non-cellulosic (may be called “Synthetic”- Made from chemicals, petroleum, coal, and natural gas. All of these fibers are manufactured from different combinations of petroleum, natural gas, air and water. They are poured through a spinneret. Include: Acrylic, Polyester, Nylon, Modacrylic, Spandex, and Olefin. Fiber Structures Staple Fibers- Short & Fuzzy- Usually between 1” and 4” long. These tiny fibers already exist in a plant or animal. The fibers just need to be cleaned up, sorted, and purified before they are used for fabrics. o Short o Look lumpy and bumpy under a microscope o Include all natural fibers, except silk Fiber Structures (con’t) Filament Fibers- Long and smooth (like fishing line) o Include all man-made, and synthetic fibers o Include Silk Spinneret- All man-made and Synthetic fibers are poured through a Spinneret to create the fiber. Natural Fibers Cotton Flax (Linen) Wool Silk Hemp Bamboo Ramie Leather Natural Fibers- Sources Plants and animals sources that grow in nature Cellulosic- Plant fibers o Cotton Linen (flax) Ramie Hemp Bamboo Ramie Protein- Animal fibers o Wool Silk Leather o o o o o o o General Characteristics of Natural Fibers – – – – – – Absorbent- able to take up moisture Porous- able to breathe, air passes through Biodegradable- able to break down Most wrinkle easily Tend to be more expensive Staple fibers which look Cotton advantages Strong, durable Soft Absorbs moisture Breathes well Washes easily Dyes well Cotton disadvantages Mildews Does not spring back into shape Wrinkles easily Burns readily Shrinks Clothing/Fashion uses Blouses Dresses Skirts Undergarments Shirts Jeans Sportswear Care of Cotton Wash in washer and dry Iron at high temperature Flax (Linen) Advantages STRONG Absorbs moisture Comfortable in warm weather Washes easily Linen disadvantages Mildews WRINKLES Burns easily Clothing/Fashion uses Blouses Dresses Skirts Suits Care of Linen Wash or Dry Clean, CHECK LABEL Washing will change the “hand” of the fabric making it soft and wrinkled in appearance Iron at HIGH temperature with moisture and a press cloth Wool Advantages WARM Durable ABSORBENT Resilient (returns to original shape quickly) Wrinkle Resistant Fire Retardant Wool Disadvantages Requires special care Shrinks sometimes if washed, or dried in dryer Absorbs odors Requires protection against insects Clothing/Fashion uses Knit garments Sweaters Gloves Skirts Coats Sportswear Socks Suits slacks Care of Wool Dry Clean or Hand Wash and Dry flat Iron at low temperature using a press cloth Silk Advantages Smooth Lustrous Strong Dries quickly Silk Disadvantages Shows water spots Iron at low temperature Expensive Care of silk Dry clean or hand wash, check label Iron at low temperature Clothing/Fashion uses Skirts Blouses Dresses Neckties Scarves Lingerie Sweaters Manufactured FibersCellulosic Acetate Lyocell (Tencel®) Rayon Manufactured Cellulosic Fibers Made from a natural material called “cellulose.” Found in the plant wall of different plants. General Characteristics – Breathable – Wrinkles – Heat Sensitive – Absorbent Acetate Advantages Soft Drapeable Dries quickly Resistant to shrinking Acetate Disadvantages Can wrinkle Low abrasion resistance Heat sensitive Damaged by acetone Acetate- care Some fabrics will be washable, but many will be “dry clean only.” Acetate- Clothing/Fashion uses Skirts Blouses Dresses Scarves Linings Rayon advantages Soft and comfortable High moisture absorbency Drapeable Rayon disadvantages May wrinkle or shrink unless treated May mildew Care of Rayon Dry cleaned or washable (see label) Iron at low temperature Rayon- Clothing/Fashion uses o o o o o Dresses Shirts Blouses Skirts Pants Lyocel advantages Breathable Soft and comfortable Drapes well- heavier than Rayon Dull finish Absorbent Strong Lyocel disadvantages Expensive Stretches in length & width Damaged with hot iron Care of Lyocel Washable Dry Clean Low Iron Clothing/Fashion uses Dresses Skirts Lingerie Blouses Synthetic Fibers Acrylic Nylon Polyester Spandex (Lycra) Aramid (Kevlar, Nomex) Olefin Triacetate Modacrylic Synthetic Fibers All are made from Petrochemicals General Characteristics - Resist Abrasion - Resist Wrinkling - Melt at High Heat - Not absorbent Acrylic Advantages Soft Warm Wool-like Light weight Wrinkle resistant Resistant to moths and sunlight Affordable Acrylic Disadvantages Pills Static electricity Heat sensitive Care of Acrylic Dry Cleaned or laundered Iron at low temperature Clothing/Fashion uses Sweaters Knit garments Faux Fur Coats Pants Skirts Shoe soles Nylon Advantages Very Strong Resilient Lustrous Dries quickly Water, wind resistant Afordable Nylon disadvantages May yellow or gray Heat Sensitive Low moisture absorbency Pills Care of Nylon Easily laundered Iron at low temperature Clothing/Fashion uses Sportswear Jackets Raincoats Backpacks Purses Polyester advantages Excellent WRINKLE RESISTANCE Resistant to abrasion Dries quickly Blends well with other fibers Retains heat-set pleats and creases Polyester disadvantages Absorbs oily stains Low absorbency of moisture Care of Polyester Easily laundered Needs little or no pressing Clothing/Fashion uses Pants Shirts Suits Sportswear Skirts Spandex advantages Excellent elasticity and recovery Stronger and more durable than rubber Light weight Resistant to body oils Used for one reason: “Stretch” *Spandex is always blended with other fibers. Spandex disadvantages Damaged by chlorine bleach Damaged by heat Does not Dye Well Clothing/Fashion uses Pants Shirts Jeans Sportswear Underwear Socks Bras Tights Fabric Blends Cotton / Polyester – Why? Cotton / Spandex – Why? Wool / Acrylic – Why? Cotton / Linen – Why? Polyester / Silk – Why? Nylon / Spandex – Why? Aramid (Kevlar & Nomex) advantages Exceptional strength Exceptional heat and flame resistance Resistant to stretch and abrasion Aramid disadvantages Not absorbent Clothing/Fashion uses Kevlar – Bullet Proof Vests – Cut/Heat and Chemical resistant Gloves Nomex – Fireman Uniforms – Racing Apparel The End…