Survive and Thrive's 2012 Essentials Overview
www.meetup.com/SURVIVE-AND-THRIVE-Philadelphia-region/
Chance favors the prepared mind. Open to all faiths, beliefs and lifestyles. BAR NONE. We are rooted in
love, not based on fear. Inspired to ease suffering through empowerment of families with knowledge,
we balance masculine and feminine principles to benefit Humanity. Always provided free of charge. This
is NOT a survival group that plans to work together in the event of a “Grid down” scenario, but rather a
group of individuals focused on SELF PRESERVATION AND CARE OF OUR LOVED ONES.This is not a
stereotypical (all male, God and guns) survival group. Atheist, Muslim, Jew, LGBT, Families, Immigrants –
all people are welcome. Don't be scared, get prepared.
Our meeting topics include but are not limited to Sovereignty / Natural Law / flexing the U.S. Constitution / self reliance / food preservation and storage /
water procurement and purification / making shelter / lethal and non lethal defense / Nuke-Chem-Bio
issues / self reliant psychology / bartering / family oriented strategies and techniques / civil unrest /
gardening in small spaces / natural disasters / stealth and subterfuge / resisting martial law / emergency
medicine and trauma care / repelling home invasions / wilderness survival / fire making and fighting /
tracking / traps and snares / animal skinning and butchering / urban escape and evasion / hygiene /
home heating options / off Grid living
Be sure to look into our huge FILE section. It is loaded with free information for you to download and
share with others. There are many viewpoints represented in our group. With the exception of the U.S.
Constitution, we always insist that ALL POLITICS BE LEFT AT THE DOOR. All meeting are family friendly
and most folks find them to be fun even as we deal with deadly serious subjects. Mindset - Courage is
not the absence of fear but action in spite of it.
It always has been and always will be the power of the mind that has the most influence on the course
of human events. Mental and physical training trumps gear every time. In times of stress you will sink to
the level of your training. Buying is not doing. Strengthen your physical memory. Practice now, store
now, think outside of your comfort zone. Each and every moment that our Grid is up is a blessing.
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Psyche - The most important of all skillsets is the management of the mind. Understanding your own
neurochemistry and how to influence or control it.
1. Natural Law, Sovereignty and your DNA - Our ancestrial mothers and fathers have survived wars,
plagues, famines and untold suffering to get us to the point in time and space that we occupy. Your DNA
is a living code that uses hydration (water) to rearrange matter ( food) into complex cellular structures (
your body ) , as long as you maintain homeostasis it is always shedding and regrowing every single cell of
the body. Neither the "State" nor the "Grid" is responsible for you or your DNA. Your body is your
property. All law is somehow property law. Natural Law and self ownership is enshrined by the
Constitution of the United States of America. The defense of your property is your Natural Law right and
responsibility.
2. Survivor, Prepper, Refugee, Zombie - A survivor is reliant upon a skillset and personal drive to procure
and produce neccesities for maintaining homeostasis. A prepper is one that plans and acts in
preparation for turbulent times by stocking up on supplies. Refugees are homeless and cannot do for
themselves or their loved ones that is left to wander and beg the mercy of others for better or worse.
"Zombie" is code for unprepared refugee. The " Zombie Apocalypse" consciusness in movies/video
games/self is a dehumanizing social trend that enables well armed preppers to murder unprepared
human beings from a distance with reduced guilt. There are many THOUSANDS of psuedo - preppers
that very well armed that plan to kill and steal their way through a Grid collapse. Take care.
3.The Grid - All energy and delivery systems - electricity, store bought food, heating fuel, gasoline,
potable water, cell/smart phones, landline phones, trucks and trains to transport goods to stores and
consumers. Police , Fire and EMTs ready to help you deal with emergencies.
4. To keep a secret or build a tribe? What is the role of charity and mercy? People are capable of terrific
acts of love and malevolence. Tribes have always been the backbone for our species ( DNA ) and the
rule of Natural Law has kept the strong sheparding the weak over time. Building community can help
those around you to ease potential suffering and death. Of course trust is not alway easy to come by .
Many deadly serious preppers operate with nearly complete silence, holding the understanding that
their neighbors are their biggest threat in a prolonged Grid down scenanrio. Some preppers have settled
on a middle ground and are ready to " Give until it hurts." These are powerful choices to make one way
and the other, best done ahead of time.
5. Observe Past, Present and Future through micro and macro scopic vision Look to and through the human mind using superposition of the mind. See yourself as one with as well
as separate from all people and things.
Past : Open your mind to all of human history, how and what we do to and for each other for better and
worse. Mine history for truth and trends. Look to the esoteric traditions and alternative views of history.
Question what you think you know.
Present : PAY ATTENTION to the reality of current events & your physical surroundings. Attention is all
that we have to give. Seek alternate news and world views, use the 80/20 rule when taking news from
mainstream media ( MSM ), shake yourself out of your mental comfort zone often. Stay mentally agile
and build fortitude by challenging assumptions. Infowars.com is a strong resource for reality based
thinking.
Future : Project your imagination into all potential realities and work your way backwards. Begin with
the end in mind. Be here now while attuning yourself to potential realities as best as you can understand
them. Influence the odds. You cannot control but you can influence. Practice what you plan, building
physical memory now is the best way to perform well at the moment of truth. Training trumphs gear.
Apply this to all aspects of your prep.
6.Predator - An entity that will abduct, abuse, criminally attack, forcibly violate, plunder, and then kill a
weaker entity. Inhumane and merciless. We all know that terrible things happen each and everyday with
our "Grid" up. The savage and brutal nature comes out even more so in chaotic and poverty stricken
times.
An outstanding tool for glimpsing the predator mind is the A&E show - I Survived
.http://www.biography.com/tv/i-survived Watch every one that you can.
The shock and horror is an important part of the process for your mind and heart to become more
hardened and more aware.It is a hard heart that kills.
7.Force multipliers - That which takes lesser energy and makes it greater. A Leatherman ( multitool ) in
your hand can do dozens of tasks that your hand alone cannot. Night vision monoculars are a force
multiplier. A bicycle is too as it enables further travel in less time with the same effort put out. Thinking
about force multipliers in your home defense is critical. Understand that all you can do is increase the
odds in your favor. Life will always be a role of the dice. Firearms are excellent force multipliers. Think
about your weaknesses and consider what it will take to force multiply in that area.
8.Survival of the flattest - in many situations the one that remains closest to the ground, keeps their
heads the lowest, does not stick up and catch attention is the one more likely to arise from the situation
at a later point in time. This principle works with bullets, armed forces of humans, your workplace , etc.
Survival of the Flattest is time tested by brave and cowardly souls alike, it is a powerful tool .
That said you must understand the difference between this and freezing with fear.
9.Fight Flight Freeze - Three basic threat responses in the brain. Think about each one on your own time.
Honestly assess yourself. One of these three stands dominant in each of our hearts. Which are you?
Once you answer that for yourself then build on your strength.
*Fight - What is worth fighting for? Why would you choose to use force to refuse and resist the violence
of predators?
For what are you prepared to kill another person? Sovereignty of your Self? Family? Tribe? To keep your
resources?
It is your killer instinct that must be harnessed if you are to perform at the moment of truth.
*Flight - Run away. Unfortunately this is often an impossibility when a predatory situation has
developed. Once there are multiple intruders in the home it may or may not be too late. What are your
exit strategies? How can you escape from your home? What can you do today that will stack the odds of
escape in your favor? Where can you go? How will you get there? Those who fail to plan , plan to fail.
Don't become a refugee.
*Freeze - Do nothing. Stay still, don't move, do what you are told to do and this may all be over soon.
While it may overlap with Survival of the Flattest, freezing has contributed to the deaths of countless
millions of humans through history. Yet it remains the most common fear response and the favorite of
predators. Stunned drivers burn in cars when they don't remove a seatbelt. A first sucker punch goes
unchallenged as the prey says " wait a minute...", then the rest of the attack goes as the attacker
planned. Millions of humans were "ghettoed", put on cattle cars and then ushered into ovens. It
happened so quickly that the population being culled huddled like sheep hoping for mercy and humane
thought to bubble up in the hearts of their predators.
Unless you are unseen, unheard, unsmelled,.... freezing is the WORST THING THAT YOU CAN DO.
Never believe a predator when he says "just do what I say and I'll let you go." Refuse and resist. It is
better to die on your feet than to live on your knees.
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Water Procurement, Purification and Preservation
H20 - the Universal solvent carries many forms of energy from one point in space to another. Potential
sources of water for emergency use: Water heaters (should be flushed out from the bottom valve every
six months to remove mineral deposits) Swimming pools, puddles, veggie cans, urine and grey water. Fill
bathtubs, pots and sinks during pending emergency. Down spout water reclamation and stretched tarps
that guide into containers. Transpiration: cover end of tree limb with clear plastic bag (including all
leaves). Wrap end tight to limb for air tight seal. Green house effect produces water through roots of
tree, leaves sweat water
Municipalities filter water to the minimum specification from the Federal Government. The law allows
sewage in the water supply making human/animal fecal matter a major contaminate of our water. Other
contaminates are excreted pharmaceuticals, household chemicals, pesticides, heavy metals, petroleum
products and anything else that gets flushed or washed down the storm sewer or sink drain.
-Distillation: Liquid with impurities (urine, grey water, river etc) is heated into a vapor and then
condensed back into a liquid. Boiling water for cooking food and sterilizing drinking water is essential.
Distilling water is the SAFEST and SIMPLIST route that you can go. Distilling is just capturing steam after
the boiled water has released the impurities by shifting into a gaseous state. One way to do this is to
secure a tall GLASS inverted overtop of the spout on a tea pot. As the steam condenses, just collect what
comes out of the upside down glass. Always use glass or metal for this, never plastic.
-Distillation method 1: Free System - Boil water, capture steam and condense through copper tubing
(coiled is preferred) into clean metal or glass container. System needs to be closed using aluminum (no
plastic). Copper tube needs to be at very top of container of heated water and at the bottom of
receiving vessel. Experiment to make yours using videos on youtube as guides. Make still and use it
before emergency and know how to use it. Distillation will remove minerals but water is for hydration
not nutrition . H20 is not a significant source of minerals.
-Distillation method 2: Solar Still - Make hole in ground that is twice as wide as it is deep. Place black
cloth (t-shirt) on bottom of hole. This step is optional but will increase efficiency if large volumes of
water are required Drop in receiving vessel in the center of hole Install grey water supply hose to
bottom of hole. Optional if greater quantities are desired Install food grade latex hose into receiving
vessel
Pack around receiving vessel with leaves and grass Cover with 3mil clear cover, make taught and air
tight. Note: Cover should be clear and has to be air tight around hole and around the two optional
hoses. Hoses must also be plugged when not in use Slip rock on center of clear cover to depress center
towards vessel to direct water into vessel.
Multistage Filtration: Note: It is important that the core process of multistage filtration not be amended
or serious illness or possibly death could result.
-Step 1: Particulate removal. Remove large particulate through media such as cheese cloth, t-shirt or
nylon. This media should be crumpled in order to increase surface area but not to severely restrict water
flow. Water needs to be added slowly for correct filter process. Sand or clay is the next layer of
particulate media. Sand should have a pre-rinse to remove outer contaminates and finer dust particles.
Clay soil will also work.
-Step2: Carbon Filtering, Carbon filtering removes tastes, odors and chemicals. The preferred type of
carbon media is bacterio-static Carbon which will resist bacteria growth. Silver impregnated carbon can
be purchased online or from water treatment centers. Carbon should also be pre-rinsed in order to
remove outer dust. Up to three rinse applications may need to be preformed. Rinsing of the carbon will
also remove some of the cloudiness for clearer water. Carbon can also be made in an emergency
situation. Thorough charring of hard woods such as Walnut, Cherry, Oak, Maple, etc will provide
excellent carbon properties. Wood should not be burnt to an ash though, just blackened. Never use
charcoal briquettes from BBQ
-Step 3: Bacteria removal. Chlorine bleach or Iodine can be used in order to kill bacteria as multistage
filtration will not remove it. Bleach must have at least 3% sodium hypochlorite. The ratio of bleach is 16
drops or 1 teaspoon per gallon of water. Wait time is a minimum of half hour for bleach to kill bacteria. .
Chlorine and Iodine are poisons, so use wisely. You can buy condensed chlorinating powder form from
any pool supply store NOW and then later add 2 teaspoons of it to one gallon of water, then you have
one gallon of bleach. OR Boil the water for 1 - 3 minutes, cooking germs to death. BOILING DOES NOT
REMOVE ANYTHING.
Water Storage: Ideally water storage should be calculated at 1 gallon of water per person per day.
Numerous options for containers include juice bottles all the way to 55 gallon drums (food grade-HDPE).
Re-used juice and soda bottles are ideal and can be easily stored in closets and under furniture. Only
food grade plastic should be used. Used drums should be suspect as the previous material in the drum
may have left potentially dangerous by- products. If using city tap water no additional Chlorine is
required as additional Chlorine has been added to provide clarity to the water. Pre-cleaning the
container with a bleach and water combination and thoroughly rinsing is a good idea. In order to
preserve freshness all air must be purged from the storage container. This is easily accomplished by
filling container so the meniscus (water bonding to water) of the water is above the bottle opening just
prior to the overflowing point; tapping container to remove as many air pockets as possible and then by
installing plug or cap allowing air to be pushed from container. 15/30/55 gallon storage containers can
be sourced inexpensively. Store bought 1 gallon jugs of spring/distilled H20 do not store well over time,
plastic will break down and leak. Stash as much water as you can now. Most importantly, practice these
skills now and become proficient in good times so that the experience serves you when times are bad.
Share the knowledge, make it family fun.
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Food prep and storage basics
Keep everything airtight, waterproof, away from the heat, Sun and varmints. Keep your active pantry
area AND emergency supply area stocked at all times. No excuses.
Nutritional value - There may be certain compromises in risk management ; metals, chemicals, sugars,
sodium, lifestyle. For the most part you can simply eat what you want albeit in improvised
circumstances.
Plan 14 meals for 7 days ( Brunch and Dinner for your family ) as a start. This is a simple and attainable
goal for you to get started. After that you can work on a 1 month , 3 month and then 1 year meal plan
for your family. If you plan to be charitable DO NOT COUNT GIVEAWAYS AS YOUR OWN. Some folks
prepare small family meals in to-go bags for desperate souls. Weigh out the options for yourself.
1. Bulk dry - Stock up on Rice / Cereal / Wheat / Oatmeal / Beans & Lentils / Salt / Sugar /Powdered Milk
and Potatoes / Pasta / Pet food – Food grade DIATOMATIOUS EARTH is an excellent mechanical
pesticide, it is NON TOXIC yet is a great way to keep bugs out of dried food stuffs. Spread it liberally in
and on your dried food. It is also used for deworming humans and animals alike. Look into it.
2. Canned food - It must be rotated twice per year. When you buy it write the sell by date on the can
with a Sharpie. Remember the date on the can is only a guide.
Most canned goods will last much longer, however if something doesn't smell right or your instinct
steers you away from a product, trust your instincts. If you have ingested a questionable food, induce
vomiting immediately . Food poisoning can be reduced or thwarted in this way. This issue can be
avoided by rotating your stock of cans twice per year. Simply “shop” from yourself and then have the
discipline to replace it right away. Buy only canned foods that you want to eat, because you will . Ask
yourself " Can I live with : tuna / salmon / baked beans / Beefaroni / fruit cocktail / green beans / peanut
butter / corn / chicken soup / evaporated milk / boiled potatoes / sardines / chili / spagettiOs / etc. ? "
3. Sealing - For dried food or food that you plan to keep frozen, vacuum packer is a good thing to have
on hand. It enables food and other important things to be stored underground , in water, in the freezer,
or in a pantry without bacterial and water damage. Vacuum packers retail for $50 to $150 and are a wise
investment. Another lower tech way to seal air and water out of a package is to melt candle wax in a pan
and dip all sides and edges of the package in the wax.. This is commonly used to preserve cheeses all
over the world. For example a pound of Velveeta cheese food product ( remember, compromises ) will
be made shelf stable for 3 or more years using this method. Boxes of pasta and rice can also benefit
from this treatment.
4. Canning - there are several hundred recipes for canning EVERY KIND OF FOOD THAT YOU CAN
IMAGINE. This is just a primer overview.
Every food falls into one of 2 categories; High ph (most fruits and veggies) and Low ph (meats and
starches). They all use one or a combination of the following as preservatives: Salt / Sugar / Vinegar /
Baking Soda /Baking Powder / Lemon juice (not fresh, pasteurized) / Alcohol. High PH foods can be
canned in mason jars in a large pot in which the jars will be covered by 2 inches of water and boiled for
20 - 30 minutes, then left to cool for a few hours. Low PH foods (beef, chicken, pork, fish, venison) MUST
ONLY be prepared in a pressure cooker ($ 40 - $250) , they need an additional boost of intensity to be
properly sterilized. Jars must be sterile. There should be no more and no less than 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch
of headspace (air space) at the top of the jar. Jar's screw tops should be wiped off. Lids should not be
over tightened. Jars must never touch each other nor the pot directly lest the glass break. Cold jars
dropped in hot water will break and vice versa. There are specialized tool sets (funnels, tongs and
magnets) that can be purchased for $10 - $15. If your finished jar ever has a vacuum lid the pops, it has
been compromised. Canning is fun and easy.
5. Drying - Using the Microwave / Oven / Grill / Smoker / and of course the Sun you can dry meats ,
fruits and veggies that can be reconstituted and / or eaten as is.Hamburger Rocks, dried fish, strongly
seasoned jerked meat and garden vegetables all make wonderful additions to soups and noodles, adding
flavor and texture. There is no magic to drying food; low heat and time are all you need. Again , recipes
abound. There is not much to limit you ability here.
6. Salt - It deserves its own topic. You can dry meat packed in salt and hide it away for long periods of
time. Roman soldiers were paid by the empire in salt, salted meat has sustained warriors, mariners and
homesteaders alike for centuries. There are many simple brine solution recipes available in the net and
in books that keep meats and fish preserved without drying them out.
7. MREs and Freeze dried food - a 12 pack of MREs retails for $55 - $80 per case. They generally have a
shelf life of 15 - 20 years. Freeze dried food needs to be reconstituted with boiling water.
Both are good ways to stock up if money is not an object, but there are not the most cost effective.
8. Hiding your stash - Why hide? Friends, family and law enforcement (MILITARY AND POLICE RESEARCH THE REPEAL OF POSSE COMMATUS AND NORTHCOM) should only know what you
intentionally allow them to know. Secrets should be kept from the general population. You don't want
unwanted groups banging on your door wanting to appropriate your hard work and investments. They
should be warned now so that they prepare for themselves. Subterfuge is to have a person think an
object is something other than what it is. Camouflage is having an object hidden in plain sight.
Of course there are a wide variety of techniques to be employed here. Just a few for food , water and
weapon storage are : Bury things in a backyard without neighbors seeing you /Utilize dead space under
and behind beds, cabinets and couches / Add shelves above a drop ceiling / Stack things in the backs of
closets / Use decorative trunks / drape fabric over sturdy bins or boxes and decorate with a lamp or
collectables. Remember the role of prudence and modesty. Being humble and close to the Earth may
keep you alive. Living beneath your means now will help you better deal later while stocking up on
simplicity now.
9 . Sprouting – You can make sprouting jars from glass mason jars with screen mesh over the tops to
allow water to be rinsed twice per day over the seeds or beans that you grow.Alfalfa - Known as the
“King of Sprouts”, alfalfa was first used by the ancient Arabs. They gave alfalfa its name, which means,
“father of all foods”. Alfalfa contains a huge amount of chlorophyll, every known vitamin, and is very
rich in minerals. What's more, like all seeds, when you sprout alfalfa seeds, the nutrients increase! If you
could have only one food, your very best choice would be alfalfa sprouts! Beans - Kidney, garbanzo,
pinto and others. Sprouting beans is a great way to get rid of beans' gases. The beans become healthier,
more delicious, cook more quickly and they lose their gaseous qualities. You can use sprouted beans in
cooked dishes like chili or bean and rice—just as you would the cooked beans. Broccoli- As nutritious
and delicious as broccoli is—you must try broccoli sprouts. Sprouted broccoli is even better than
broccoli! Make sure you buy sprouting seeds from a source that does not coat the seeds. Garlic - Along
with onions and parsley, garlic is often grown just a little bit longer in order to get some greens. These
seeds produce pungent greens that can be used to flavor salads, sandwiches and other dishes. Mung
bean sprouts have been eaten by the Chinese culture for thousands of years. Mung beans are used in
more ways than any other sprouts. Radish is a legume, and its sprouts impart a very tangy flavor. If you
add just a few to a salad or a sandwich, you will get a nice peppery zip. Soybeans are used in similar
ways to mung beans. The sprouts are rich in vitamin C. In fact, ½ cup of soybean sprouts has the same
amount of vitamin C as 6 glasses of orange juice! Soybeans have been used to replace meat, butter,
cheese and milk. Wheat, the “staff of life”, has been the mainstay of the human race for centuries.
Sprouted wheat increases 600% in vitamin C and higher mineral and enzyme levels.
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Fire ! Emergency firefighting, heating and cooking.
This presentation is for informational purposes only , the presenter has been a Montgomery County
Pa.Firefighter since 2002 and offers this basic information to empower those that need help should
there ever be a situation in which conventional firefighting, heating and cooking methods are not
available. Disaster firefighting - In the aftermath of any disaster , fire has the single most potential for
escalation. Relying on the Fire Department in a time of mass disruption is sheer folly. The FD will be
overworked and the members may not even be there because they are attending to their own homes.
Remember Katrina. To put out a fire you must cool or remove the source that is causing the burning
process, exclude the air supply that the fire needs to burn, remove the new fuel that the fire will use to
continue the burning ,or interrupt the chemical reaction taking place within the flame zone of the fire.
Class A - ordinary combustibles ( wood , vegetation , plastics) anything that leaves an ash . Best fought
with water and smothering ( sand , dirt, wet blanket )
Class B - flammable liquids and gases ( gasoline , meth lab , cooking grease , propane , alcohol ,
kerosene )
These fires are capable of flowing and can be pushed around or increase in intensity when sprayed with
water.They can also reignite if the stream of the extinguishing agent is interrupted or blown off by the
wind. Often with Class B fires the vapors will collect in confined areas and will explode if they contact an
ignition source. Keep air flowing to prevent this buildup ( bust out windows and doors ) . If possible shut
off the source like a gas main valve or propane tank . Class C - involves energized electrical equipment (
power distribution panels, electric motors , computers ) The main threat here is electrocution , NEVER
use water on a Class C. Once the power is cut then it can be handled as a Class A or B. Baking soda is a
good extinguishing agent for smaller Class B and C fires.Class D - burning of combustible metals (
magnesium , aluminum , car fires ) unless you have a Class D extinguisher ( or it is a small fire and is
smotherable with sand and dirt) , let it burn out. If you hose it down with water then molten metal may
explode and scatter around the area. You can hose off combustibles ( potential Class As and Bs ) around
the Class D fire to keep it from spreading.
Remember to PASS ! Pull Aim Squeeze Sweep. When you use an extinguisher you should -Pull the pin,
Aim at the base of the fire (keep the wind at your back!) , Squeeze the top lever and keep it upright,
Sweep from side to side ( start low and work toward the rear of the area on fire). If the extinguisher is
too heavy to carry then drag it. Dry Chem extinguishers are non toxic but very irritating to the nose and
lungs, wear a mask when dealing with the clean up. Keep multiple extinguishers on every floor of your
home and in your car.
Kitchen fires are the most common, stovetop fires ( grease , pot on fire ) can be smothered with a tight
fitting lid ,then use oven mitts and potholders to calmly walk it outside. Oven fires can be easily
controlled in the early stages. First turn off the heat , prepare the extinguisher , put oven mitts on, stand
off to the side as to avoid the burst of superheated air that will rush out when you open the oven. Fresh
oxygen may flare up the fire inside so be careful.
An oven is pretty much a fireproof box but you should check all surrounding cabinetry for hidden
fire.Having a long garden hose prepared to water down your own space and those close to you is a good
idea.Ideally you should be able to reach your entire property. If you are in an apartment , you can buy a
faucet -to- hose adapter for a couple of dollars. Also learn the locations of “ House Lines” in a high
rise.These are 75 to 100 foot long fire hoses stationed in glass cabinets, remember to ALWAYS pull the
line out and clear all kinks from the line BEFORE turning the water on.Identify NOW where all of the
gas/propane / electrical main switches are in and around your home, be prepared to shut off yours’ as
well as your neighbor’s lines in case of an emergency. If you are caught in a dwelling on fire,stay calm,
stay low , if you can’t see wear you are going then follow a wall by touch to a safer zone. Don’t overlook
the basics here - keep fresh batteries in smoke detectors , plan and practice a family evacuation.Smoke
mixed with panic kills far more people than Fire herself does.
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Heating when the grid is down is no small task , it can be very dangerous from a variety of angles.The
first key is insulation. Dead air space is the most effective concept to hold in mind. Layers of blankets on
the floor above you , layers of blankets over doorways , clothes and newspaper crumpled and stuffed
into window
spaces then covered with plastic sheeting and duct tape ( also seal up electric outlets). Consider heating
a small space such as one room or even a tent within a room. Sleeping bags and layered clothing go a
long way here.Often small lamps ( kerosene , propane ) and candles give off a significant amount of heat
in a confined space but beware of carbon monoxide poisoning as it is odorless and lethal.
Alcohol ( 90 or 70% rubbing alcohol , 180 proof Grain liquor , denatured alcohol , methanol and ethanol )
will not create Carbon Monoxide when burned in stoves, zippo lighters , hurricane lamps etc. It does not
burn as brightly but it isclean burning and when spilled will evaporate without a trace residue. This a
tremendous advantage over petroleum based fuels. In a lamp , 12 oz of alcohol will burn for over 24
hours with a wick that is kept low. Alcohol is very safeand easy to store and transport , it burns at
around 1400 BTUs . It is a little bulkier ( energy output by volume ) than petro based fuels but the safety
factor far outweighs this in my mind.
Kerosene heaters are cheap , common and powerful . Stocking up on the heaters , latex gloves , siphons
and fuel is a viable option for short and mid term survival heating. They are easy to come by on Craig’s
List and Freecycle forlittle or no money. There are two main types 1.) is the cylindrical style and 2.) is the
rectangular style. Both perform about the same. The big difference is the removable fuel tank in the
rectangular type.
This tank can be removed while the heater is still working and quickly refilled with kerosene in a remote
space ( like a garage or backyard) . This advantage is important because Kerosene stinks and is ALWAYS
messy when refilling. Use gloves and a siphon , stock up on fuel cans. Never light any Kerosene heater
indoors, always light it outsideand let it burn for a few minutes before bringing it in.One gallon of
kerosene will burn for 24hours on a low - medium heat setting.
Propane heaters and grills are also solid options. Remember to plan ahead for fuel use ( and to use as
barter items).You may want to memorize where propane cylinders are sold in your area , as well as pay
attention to what sorts of locks are used to secure them. Bolt cutters are a part of my survival stash.
Small wood stoves ( MilSpec and camping type) can be fitted to use an exhaust vent from a water heater
or home heating unit as a temporary chimney. Eventually there will be build up of residue on the
interior of the pipe, it will build up much faster with the burning of soft wood ( Pine and conifers) as
opposed to hard wood (Oak , Cherry , Walnut). Wood is not an efficient way to heat your space long
term but it does allow for your fuel source to be replenished in a post grid scenario. Be aware of your
signature in scent ( smoke and cooking food) lest you attract unwanted visitors.
Solar ovens and solar stills are good options to have on hand . A quality solar oven can bake bread and
cook a wide variety of foods. Solar showers are a good way to heat water for hygienic purposes,
however the solar options are dependant on a steady supply of sunlight and so are not completely
reliable.
Alcohol stoves are ideal for simply boiling water , one small soda can stove with 1 - 2 oz of fuel will bring
2 cups of water to a rolling boil in less than 2 minutes. We will teach how to make them , but this
website is a terrific resource to do more research on your own: http://zenstoves.net/Stoves.htm
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HAZMAT - NUKE CHEM BIO
Hazardous materials are those that may cause damage to life ( DNA ) at the present or in the future.
Carcinogenic, mutagenic, teratogenic, central nervous system(neuro)/ liver/ kidney toxins can have wide
ranging impact on our homeostasis. Ionizing radiation ( ALPHA/BETA/GAMMA), chemical and
microbiological contamination of our physical space ( to include air /water/ food ) can cause slow
CHRONIC or fast, high dose ACUTE exposures.The four primary routes of exposure are1. Respiratory breathing it 2. Absorption - flesh contact into the bloodstream 3. Ingestion - swallowed 4. injected stabs and jabs
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HAZMAT gear for a family on a shoestring budget:
Remember that there is no magic to this, you just need to create a water and airtight fit around your
body in order to deal with most HAZMAT troubles.
Also, most HAZMAT emergencies are very temporary, wind and water will dissipate most of the
offending contaminates in relatively short order. Until then though, EVERY INVISIBLE DUST PARTICLE
AND DROP OF WATER EMBODIES YOUR MORTAL ENEMY
*Duct tape -The role of a good quality duct tape cannot be overstated here, especially if you are
patching together your own suit in order to act within a contaminated area. The cheaper the tape the
less reliable it will be. Air and water tight is the key here. Gloves, boots and seams.
*Gloves -They need only be water proof and bio/chemical resistant. Most latex and nitrile gloves will
give adequate performance and can be worn under outergloves that give more mechanical protection.
Latex/nitrile gloves are most functional and least cumbersome when they are worn one size down, for
example if you think you wear a large, then try a medium. More tactile sensitivity and better grip come
with this practice.
*Boots - Again, water tight and bio/chem resistant. Overboots are best. Simple pull on boots made of
rubber will do for most incidents.
*Coveralls –
1. TYVEK / Nomex / PBI are near perfect choices for most applications. They can be found at first
responder stores and online for as little as $7.
2. A second choice here is the most expensive chemical suit from Home Depot/Lowes. Costing about
$15, it is a smart choice for many people.
3. A third but still viable selection would be a rain suit that you seal VERY WELL with duct tape.
*Masks 1. Military specification aka MILSPEC whole face gas masks are ideal. These are commonly found with
NATO standard threaded filters to allow interoperability. There are different MILSPECs for different
nation states. US, European, Russian and Israeli are the most common and reliable as a general rule.
Russian and Israeli masks are also made for civilians at a very low cost, the tradeoff being practical
tactical advantages such as hydration tubes, rifle compatibility, voice boxes. Often found at gun shows,
Army/Navy stores and through many online purveyors.
2. Second to MILSPEC whole face masks are chemical spray masks from Home Depot/Lowes, et al. These
are the highest in price and quality available at these stores today ( $ 50-60 ). They do not give your eyes
the protection that a whole face mask does so chemical spray goggles are also needed. One distinct
advantage is the fact that if you choose to, you can go into a store RIGHT NOW and obtain them and
their replacement filters.
3. A far distant third choice is an N95 or N100 particle mask, the sort worn just over the mouth and
nose. It can trap many airborne pathogens and radioactive dust particles but it's lacking for several
reasons. That said they are very cheap, easy to find and much better than nothing.
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DECON - Decontamination made as simple and practical as can be in a Grid down or Grid teetering
reality. In a space just outside of your safe room/clean zone there should be an intermediate space for
cleanup, sort of like a mud room where you can stop and reduce your messiness before tracking it into
the house. An individual or object can have the NUKE/CHEM/BIO hazards washed off of them simply by
washing off the external suit ( or skin suit if there was no protection for the individual that you wish to
help) with a mild bleach/detergent/water solution. The person or object should be standing in a
Rubbermaid tub or kiddie pool and be scrubbed by another person who is wearing some level of
protective clothing, using a soft bristle brush and rinsed thoroughly. Microorganisms need to have at
least 20 minutes of exposure to bleach water in order for them to be killed. The collected waste water
should be disposed of away from your home, food and water supplies. Chlorine granules for swimming
are ideal for keeping large quantities of bleach on hand. 1 teaspoon of chlorine powder added to 1
gallon of water makes 1 gallon of bleach. Dawn dish liquid is the preferred standard for an expedient
detergent.
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SHELTER IN PLACE - If there is a major HAZMAT emergency near your home then the Incident
Commander of the Fire/Rescue Service may issue the order shelter in place orders, this will most likely
be a relatively brief lockdown delivered to you via loud speakers on fire trucks. That said, YOU waiting
for someone else's order to act may be a serious lapse in judgment. It is better to be safe and silly
looking than sorry and sick. Shut off your WATER, GAS and ELECTRIC utilities right away, especially for
natural disasters like hurricanes, earthquakes and tornadoes. Practice this operation in your home
before you need it. For the electricity shut down all of the individual breakers before shunting the main
circut breaker. As a broad general rule you want to establish a space in your home/building that is
centered and as low as you can go with solid support overtop of your family. Often this will be a
basement. Pick a room that will suit your family needs the best. If possible consider a room with a
bathroom attached.When creating a space that is insulated from NCB risks there are some very
important considerations to ACT ON ahead of time:
FOOD AND WATER - enough to last you for at least three days, 1 gallon per person per day is a sound
standard. Two weeks is far more intelligent a plan. Also truly vital medications.
COMMUNICATION AND LIGHT - a radio / flashlight preferably one of the crank operated models.
Keeping a police/fire/NOAA scanner is smart, smartphone apps are great for this too. Many affordable
shortwave radios can pick up a wide range of international communications which can be a great way to
stay informed. Cell phone backup battery chargers are easy to come by these days for little money.
SECURITY - there are no true substitutes for firearms if you want the ability to say "No!" to those who
may wish to take ALL that you have to give.
AIR CONTROL - You must keep all windows and doors sealed. Lock them and if your instinct guides you
to, reinforce them
Precut sheets of 3 mil plastic sheeting should be labeled by writing the window/door placement on a
peice of duct tape afixed to them. This will minimize confusion and help to streamline the process. Wet
towels can be rolled up an stuffed under doors to prevent airflow. Be sure to shut off any HVAC system
and seal the ducts. Again you cannot have too much quality duct tape. As far as oxygen levels for
breathing goes, the general rule for an average room : 10 square feet of floor space (2'x5') provides 5
hours of relaxed breathing time. In cold weather add tightly crumpled newspaper and lightweight fabrics
into the dead airspace to lock in heat.
SANITATION - Basic hygiene must be maintained in order to fight off diseases that are common to our
species. Alcohol in different forms such as 70-90% isopropyl, denatured, ethanol, etc are excellent to
have on hand for disinfecting skin and surfaces but also as a cooking and heating fuel that WILL NOT
CAUSE CARBON MONOXIDE POISONING when used in small spaces.
Baby wipes are cheap and have a long shelf life. The brushing of teeth ought not be overlooked. Keeping
bleach on hand is a good thing but beware of the fumes in tight spaces. Keep socks and underwear dry,
feet and moist body areas wiped clean. Sores and skin infections can tear into you quickly.
Feces and urine management is crucial to any shelter in place planning. If your Grid's sewage system is
intact then use your toilet normally. If the sewage system was damaged or is failing due to lack of
humans on the job then you must not use it. You should consider opening the "cleanout trap" in the
basement and stuffing clothes and blankets into the sewage line to prevent a backup of other people's
dookie into your home through your sink drains. This measure can be easily undone after the event.If
there is no water supply coming from the Grid, then you can:
1. Shut off your water line at the main tap coming into your house, this prevents problems when the
service is restored.
2. If your toilet is intact then wipe out the bowl with a disinfectant, line the bowl with garbage bag or
small trash can bag. Double up to aviod spills.
If your toilet is not intact or is otherwise unreachable then use a camping potty or 5 gallon bucket with a
simple seat. Again use the bags as liners. Use the bags a few times but don't let them get too heavy. Lids
are important here.
3. Sprinkle thoroughly with but neatly with powered lime ( found in garden supply retailers ) or Borax.
Lime is caustic and can cause minor skin burns or irritations so be mindful of your dusting. Lime and
Borax will go a very long way to keeping microbe spores in check and reducing odor buildup.
4. Place used potty bag into a trashcan with a tight fitting lid. This should be lined with at least one 3mil
contractor grade trash bag. Sprinkle it with lime or Borax too as the bags pile up.
5. Depending on the length of time that the Grid is down, you may have to place these bags outside of
your home. Beware of water and food proximity also consider animals ripping into them ( because they
will if they can).
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NUKE SPECIFIC INFO:
For nuclear emergencies the "hot" particles will fall out of the sky within a few to several hours and so
after the maximum amount of air in your airtight shelter has been used ( your body will tell you ) then
open a ventalation port or two near the top of your safe room. Trace amounts may make it in but the
odds are in your favor at this point. Keep an eye on the news. A nuclear attack will unlikely come out of
the blue from an enemy nation. Such an attack would likely be preceded by a deteriorating political
situation. A war with conventional weapons between nations that both have nuclear weapons, if not
ended swiftly, may escalate towards nuclear war and even limited nuclear strikes in one region carry the
likelihood to escalate towards an all-out nuclear war elsewhere.
However, an unconventional nuclear attack by terrorists could come without warning. Given the lack of
a credible sovereign enemy, such attacks are unlikely to escalate to a full nuclear exchange. Many
countries have a rating system to denote the imminence of attack.
In the USA and Canada, for example, you should know the DEFCON (DEFense CONdition) level:
DEFCON 5. Normal peacetime readiness
DEFCON 4. Normal increased readiness, increased intelligence and national security measures. (Cold
War.)
DEFCON 3. Increased force readiness above normal, American radio call-signs are changed to classified
call-signs. Air Force ready to mobilize in less than 15min.
DEFCON 2. Increase in force readiness, just below maximum. All forces ready to mobilize and deploy
within 6hrs. (Declared only once during the Cuban Missile Crisis.)
DEFCON 1. Maximum force readiness; the use of nuclear weapons has been authorized. This has never
been used for the national condition.
Fusion (H-Bombs), using the incredible heat of a fission bomb 'spark plug', compress and heat deuterium
and tritium (isotopes of hydrogen) which fuse, releasing immense amounts of energy.
Fusion weapons are also known as thermonuclear weapons since high temperatures are required to
fuse deuterium and tritium.
EMP Weapons. A nuclear weapon detonated at a very high altitude will generate an electromagnetic
pulse so powerful that it can destroy electronic and electrical devices. Placing radios, flashlights in a
SEALED metal container (a "Faraday cage") may protect from EMP, providing the items being protected
are not in contact with the enclosure. The metal shield must surround the protected item completely and it helps if it is grounded. The items to be protected should be insulated with plastic or cloth from the
conductive shell, since the EMP field washing over the shield can still induce voltages in solid state
circuit boards. One method is to wrap a cardboard box with copper, or aluminum foil. Place the item in
there and plug the device into the ground. You may also use cookie tins and metal bulk ammo cans.
Seek shelter immediately. Aside from the geopolitical warning signs, your first warnings of an imminent
nuclear attack will most likely be an alarm or warning signal, if not it will be the blast itself. The bright
light from a detonation of a nuclear weapon can be seen tens of miles away from ground zero. If within
the vicinity of the blast (or ground zero), your chances of survival are virtually nonexistent unless you are
in a shelter that provides a very (VERY) good blast protection. If you are a few miles out, you will have
about 10-15 seconds until the heat wave hits you, and maybe 20-30 seconds until the shockwave does.
Under no circumstances should you look directly at the fireball. On a clear day, this can cause temporary
blindness at very large distances. If you can't find shelter, seek a depressed area nearby and lay face
down, exposing as little skin as possible. If there is no shelter of this kind, dig as fast as possible. Even
around 5 miles you will suffer third degree thermal-burns; still at 20 miles the heat can burn the skin off
your body. The wind itself will peak at around 600mph and will level anything or anybody caught in the
open. Failing the above options, get indoors , this will, at least, provide some protection against
radiation. Stay well away from any windows, preferably in a room without one; even if the building does
not suffer substantial damage, a nuclear explosion will blow out windows at enormous distances.
Remember: it's not the initial blast that creates the high death toll; it's radiation exposure.
There are two threats of radiation:
Initial (prompt) radiation. This is radiation released at the moment of detonation, and it is short-lived
and travels short distances. With the large yields of modern nuclear weapons, it is thought that this will
kill few who would not be killed by the blast or heat at the same distance. Residual radiation. Known as
radiation fallout. If the detonation was a surface blast or the fireball hits the earth, large amounts of
fallout occurs. The dust and debris kicked into the atmosphere rains down, bringing with it dangerous
amounts of radiation. The fallout may rain down as contaminated black soot known as "black rain,"
which is very fatal and may be of extreme temperature. Fallout will contaminate anything it touches.
Once you have survived the blast and the initial radiation (for now at least since radiation symptoms
have an incubation period), you must find protection against the burning black soot.
Know the types of radiation particles:
1.Alpha particles: They will be fatal if ingested or inhaled. Standard clothing will help protect you from
them, they are weak.
2. Beta particles: These are faster than Alpha particles and can penetrate further. They will travel for up
to 10 yards before they are absorbed into the atmosphere. Exposure to beta particles is not fatal unless
exposed for prolonged periods; which may cause "Beta burns," almost like painful sunburn. They pose a
serious threat, however, to the eyes, should they be exposed for a prolonged period. Once again this is
harmful if ingested or inhaled, and clothing will help prevent Beta burns.
3. Gamma Rays. Gamma Rays are the deadliest. They can travel for nearly a mile in the air and penetrate
just about any kind of shielding.
Therefore gamma radiation will cause severe damage to the internal organs even as an external source.
Sufficient shielding will be required.
A shelter's PF against radiation will tell you how many times less a person inside the shelter will receive
radiation compared to open space. For example, RPF 300means that you will receive 300 times less
radiation in the shelter than in the open. Avoid exposure to Gamma radiation. Try not to spend more
than 5 minutes exposed. Begin reinforcing your shelter from the inside by stacking dirt around the walls
or anything else you can find. If in a trench, then create a roof, but only if materials are nearby; don't
expose yourself when not necessary. 3+ mil plastic sheeting or a tent will help stop fallout debris from
piling on you,
though it will not stop Gamma rays. It is impossible to completely shield from all radiation. It can only
be reduced to a tolerable level. DO NOT GET OUT FOR AT LEAST 48 HOURS.Use the following to help you
determine the amount of material you'll need for your shelter to reduce radiation penetration to
1/1000:
Steel: 0.7 feet Rock: 2-3 ft Concrete: 2.2 ft Wood: 8.8 ft Soil: 3.3 ft Ice: 6.6 ft Snow: 20-22 ft Plan on
staying in your shelter for a minimum of 200 hours (8-9 days). If these materials are not at hand then
use every bit of mass you can get to cover the top and sides of your shelter.
Stacks of books, heavy furniture, dirt. The more mass the better. Also stock up on KI or K3 to fill your
thyroid gland with iodine and help to stave off radiation sickness.
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Saferoom techniques No one of us has exactly the same configurations in our homes.So bear in mind that these are principles
to consider and not hard fast rules to follow.
* Establish a predetermined fallback point in case of home invasion, drill it into the heads of those that
you love.
* If the Grid is up it is a great idea to have a charged cellphone ( disposable ) with a list of important
phone numbers nearby.
* Find the spot in your home that gives you the best Ballistic/Nuclear/Natural disaster insulation to
begin with and then build a plan from there.
A corner of your basement? Against a firewall ( not a party wall)? Root cellar? Do you have a storage
unit in an apartment building? Do you rent a storage unit from a commercial facility ( they are very
secure)? Build on your ballistic insulation from there.
* Stash food , water, heat, LED flashlights, medicine, guns and ammo, hygiene and waste disposal there
ahead of time. At least 2 weeks is a minimum for a nuke attack. That is a good time frame to work with.
If the Grid will be going back up it should do that within that time frame. And outlasting the predators
outside is the main goal.
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Mental barriers:
Avoidance - Preventing a problem before it starts. Staying sharp and mentally agile. Keep yourself light
on your feet and quick to react. SunTzu says in the Art of War " The most powerful generals are those
that win wars without fighting them."
Camouflage - To disguise something to blend in with the surrounding environment.
Subterfuge - Making others think one thing when the truth is another. Marking boxes of food as "Xmas
decorations" in your basement, hiding cans and bottles in the 5 inches of open space underneath your
kitchen cabinets. Marking your living space as abandoned , infested , contaminated or looted.
Stealth - Light, smell and sound discipline. Not being noticed is an art. Ninjitsu has many mental
principles that can be applied here. If you are hiding, do not focus your attention on the would be
predator as this will more often than not have him feel you and look directly at you.
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Early warning signals:
The moment of realization is the key for your next action. Have in in your mind and body's history what
your next action will be.
*Rat trap/Fishing line tripwires and door alarms are super simple to rig up and can be set onto any
surface, window and door.
Just make sure the trap is secured and in a spot to be heard, sound can be augmented by use of a bell or
glass being attached to the trap's bar.
*Carpet tack strips facing up can cut into creeping predators or at least stick into their shoes and trigger
a tripwire nearby.
*Broken glass spread on the ground near windows and doors
*Solar powered motion activated flood lights placed in strategic spots
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Physical barriers:
Have guns and know how to use them. There are no substitutes.
Ballistic insulation - Bullets are fired from a wide range of guns . The most common from least to
greatest for penetration is as follows:
22cal., 38 cal., 9mm, 40 cal., 45cal. for handguns , then buck shot and slug from a shotgun, 223 and 762
rounds from AR and AK battle rifle platforms.
Refrigerators, floors/ceilings, party walls ( drywall and studs), doors in the house and car doors do not
provide good cover, only concealment from fire. The key to stopping a bullet is spreading it's kinetic
energy out far, wide and fast. Layers and spaces are what to bear in mind when crafting a safe spot in
your space. Staggering the densities is a good idea. This enables the bullet to expand and dissipate the
kinetic energy faster thus slowing it to a stop. For example:
* Layers of 3/4 inch wood, 1/4 or 1/2 inch metal, 3/4 inch wood with small gaps between them
* Sand bags, paper & plastic grocery bags or pillow cases filled with rocks and dirt
* Encyclopedias, phone books and magazines bound by duct tape in stacks.Always so that the bullet will
go through cover to cover, not up a few pages and out through the book's spine. Distribution of energy.
* Wooden pallets that have top and bottom surfaces stood up on end and filled with columns of brick in
contractor grade trash bags
* Furniture such dressers, buffets and file cabinets that get packed to the gills with books and metal
objects like barbell weights and cast iron pans
* Double thick wall of milk crates filled with canned food ( double use )
Door reinforcement - A section of 2x4 wood that is notched at one end to fit under a doorknob and cut
at an angle on the other end to lie flat on the floor. Another section of 2x4 should be a foot or so long
and be NAILED into the floor as a brace for the first 2x4. Use long heavy nails, the more you distribute
the force the more force you can resist. If you must secure a door on a concrete, ceramic or marble tile
floor consider the $18 Door Security Bar from Home Depot as it has a nonslip grip foot and is made of
steel. 3/4 inch plywood should be used to cover any glass window in the door itself. It is best to have a
heavy steel door on a heavy steel frame that is secured deep into concrete to begin with but we must
make do with what we have in a pinch.
Window reinforcement - duct tape windows in an X and Square pattern to reduce shattering and
maintain control over temperature flux. Consider having 3/4 inch plywood precut for each window you
wish to secure, predrill holes for nailing them into your window sashes. Have each one labeled for it's
own window so that it will be smoother running as the fan and feces meet. It is best done inside and out
with a layer of steel in between. That said , learn make do with your limited resources. Also, long nails
into predrilled holes on the inside of the window frame will make them harder to open.
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Non traditional weaponry Pesticides - Yes it is poison, yes it will harm them, no you ought not lose any sleep over it. Beware that in
a tight space it can work against you unless you are wearing an NCB mask or high quality chem spray
mask from Home Depot. Watch your eyes as you aim for their's.
Wasp/hornet spray $3 - If it says it shoots up to 27 feet, you can count on 18 feet. If it says 12 , bank on
8. Home Depot.
Bug Bombs/Foggers $10 for a three pack - Like the sort used for flea and roach infestation, best thrown
into another room or hallway or dropped onto a lower floor or staircase. Its best to click and throw a
few of them into a space just before the predators enter it so the space is well fumagated. Seal your
self/selves off as best as you can. Home Depot. Gopher bombs $10 for a four pack - Designed to kill
smaller mammals in tunnels, these are horrible neurotoxins that ought to be used only in an extreme
situation. Also they must have their fuses lit and pose a certain level of fire hazard to the structure that
you are in. Tractor Supply Store/Agway.
Riot / Bear pepper spray - Again just like the sprays listed above these can work against you unless you
have a good NCB mask on. Don't waste your time with keychain sprays as they have failed more people
than are left alive to acount for it.
Fire extinguisher - non toxic but very hard to breathe it in, also dual use. Not a solid option but better
than nothing.
Paintball gun - Loaded with rubber bullets is even better than paint . Pepperballs are available too. The
key here is to have a paintball gun that is fully charged with air and the pressure control turned way up.
A few rounds to the face will blind and deter just about anyone.
Knife on a Stick - AKA a spear. Use a full tang knife ( where the blade and handle are one solid metal
piece) and attach it to a broom or mop handle with duct tape. This can be made in the kitchen in less
than two minutes and may give you the extra reach required to keep a predator away from your body.
Remember this is all about keeping a safe distance.
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EVACuation Always be prepared to walk away from your home. Fire ripping through a house or manditory removal
by government order. Be ready to walk.Shut off your WATER, GAS, ELECTRICITY and SEWER before you
go if possible.
The FEMA site has truely wonderful checklists for bugging out but no firearms are mentioned, go figure.
http://www.ready.gov/
Also, the FILE section of the Survive and Thrive website has several easy to follow lists of lists.In addition
this is the recommended A-Z survival kit of this group.
This kit is weights less than 5 pounds and very compact. Easily kept in your car or backpack
a. Leatherman Wave / Gerber Multitool
b. 8" zip ties - 30 ea
c. 3 mil. 55 gal Contractor bags - 2 to 3 ea
d. 3 mil. clear plastic sheet - 8ft x 10ft
e. 550 parachord - 50 ft (not just any rope)
f. Duct tape - 20 to 30 ft on a flat roll
g. Signal mirror
h. LED flashlight with a switch
i. Unlubricated , unribbed condoms - 3 ea ( water carry and wound seal )
j. Compass - button compass ( with moving face) is preferred to the needle compass
k. Whistle - it is better have a whistle without a ball inside
l. Latex surgical tubing - 6 to 10 ft
m. Clear medium or tall trash bags - 2 to 4 ea
n. Butane Bic lighter 1 ea
o. Strike anywhere matches dipped in wax ( not too thick)
p. Firestarters - fuelsticks or cotton/petrojelly balls in foil - 8 or more ea
q. Magnesium spark stick
r. Gatoraid / electrolyte powder
s. Medium sized fishing hooks 10 ea
t. Small bottle of chlorine powder
u. Bandana, large - 1 ea
v. Hoop needle, large - 1 ea
w. Travel sized baby wipes - 1 pack
x. Gauze pads - 2 ea
y. Powerbars - 3 to 6 ea
z. Triple antibiotic salve / Neosporin