Part Three
MERCHANDISING: THE EXECUTION
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Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
Line Development
• Creation of a group of garment styles for a specific time period
(collection)
• Process requires
– Understanding: Sense of market
– Conceptualization: Quickly and effectively visualize new styling
ideas
– Creation: Develop finished garment styles that meet the
expectations set forth in conceptualization stage through efficient
design process
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Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
Successful Development Strategies
• Utilize new technologies and teamwork to synchronize
process
• Apply interactive online fashion information services,
integrated graphics, PDS, PIM, and video conferencing
• Focus on advanced communications and computer
integration of data and process control with suppliers
and producers
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Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
Creative Process
• Ability to visualize a concept that will capture the
essence of a consumer’s buying urge almost one year in
the future
• Merchandiser and product manager must understand
creative abilities of design team
• Merchandisers and product managers must maintain
control of the process (merchandising calendar/line
development calendar) without stifling creativity
• Merchandiser and product manager must understand
creative elements of design
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Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
Styling
• Styling involves creating
concepts and theme direction
for each line
• Stylist must be skilled in
fashion illustration techniques
• Critical areas that affect
styling direction are color,
fabric, and silhouette
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Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
Design
• Design interprets the concepts developed by stylists into
actual garments
• Craft: pattern design, grading, garment construction
techniques, interplay of fabric, findings, and trims
• In small and medium-sized companies the designer
performs the function of styling the line
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Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
Design Elements
• Merchandiser and product manager must have a thorough
understanding of the elements of design
–
–
–
–
Color
Line
Shape
Texture
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Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
Color
• Has immediate and powerful
impact on perception
• Different materials alter color
• Different weaves create different
shades when woven with same
lot of dyed yarn
• Management design decisions
must be made concerning color
standards
• After color standards are set,
color computers can provide
consistent results
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Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
Color Management
• Color management systems provide process and controls
to maintain color consistency throughout a product line
• Merchandiser should establish color management criteria
• Color theory is a complex science
• Color can affect sales
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Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
Dimensions of Color
• Hue
• Value
• Intensity
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Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
Hue
•
•
•
Scale of perceptions that range
from red through yellow, green,
and blue and circularly back to
red (color wheel)
Hues that affect perception of
fabrics, which absorb light, are
subtractive (pigment) primary
colors yellow, blue, and red.
Hues produced by a computer
monitor are from emitted light,
which are additive primary
colors red, green, and blue.
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Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
Warm Colors
•
•
•
•
Reds
Yellows
Oranges
Stimulating, exciting,
aggressive, cheerful, or lively
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Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
Cool Colors
•
•
•
•
Blues
Greens
Purples
Quiet, peaceful, refreshing,
or reserved
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Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
Neutral Colors
•
•
•
•
•
•
Tans
Browns
Grays
Black
White
Sophistication, do not detract
from other colors
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Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
Value
•
•
•
•
•
•
Variation of light strength in a color
White is total presence of light
Black is total absence of light
Lightest values are tints: colors mixed with white
Darker values are tones: colors mixed with gray
Darkest values are shades: colors mixed with black
Tint
Tone Shade
16
Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
Contrast
• Contrasts of low- and high-value colors when applied to garments can
create illusions
• Low value or light colors draw attention and create illusion of being
larger
• Higher value or darker colors create illusion of being smaller
• Light contrasted with dark draws eye away from dark area to light
areas
17
Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
Intensity
• Strength or weakness of color
determined by saturation or
vividness of hue.
• Pure primary colors are most
intense
• Intensity can be lowered by
mixing primary color with
another hue or gray
18
Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
Color Notation
• Standard system for referencing colors
• Munsell and PANTONE® color notation systems are widely
used (color chips or swatches of various fabrics)
• Many computer software applications are linked to
PANTONE® and Munsell color systems
http://usa.gretagmacbethstore.com
www.pantone.com
19
Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
Light Conditions
• Fluorescent, incandescent, or
natural sunlight can cause fabric
colors to take on different hues
(metameric effect)
• Fabrics should be selected using a
controlled viewing light that can
duplicate different lighting
conditions
http://www.xenotest.de
20
Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
Range or Colorway
• The colors that a line is offered in
• Too few can result in lost sales
• Too many can result in high development and inventory
carrying costs
• Merchandiser and product manager often makes final color
decisions based upon line plan
21
Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
Line
• Design element that determines direction
of visual interest in a garment
• Visual path the eye takes when viewing
a garment
• Created by placement and shape of
parts, fabric prints or patterns, use of
color, seam positioning, pleats, darts,
tucks, folds, trims or even topstitching
(long skirt, shirt placket, princess seam,
bold double-stitched lap seam on jeans
22
Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
Line
• Thin vertical lines or long diagonal
lines add height and slenderize
• Broad horizontal lines widen the
figure or cut it into shorter
segments
23
Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
Shape
• An enclosed space or
boundary produced in two
or three dimensions
• Silhouette in two
dimensions
• Body style in three
dimensions
– Fitted to follow natural
curves
– Oversized to hide the body
– Triangular to exaggerate a
body part
24
Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
Texture
•
•
•
•
•
•
Surface variations
Fiber type
Yarn structure
Fabric construction
Fabric finishes
Skilled stylist or designer can use texture to create
dramatic contrasts or fluid continuity
25
Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
Design Principles
• Gestalt psychology Perception with eye and brain
defining visual images as a
pattern or whole rather than
the sum of finite component
parts
• Elements of design can create
visual perception
“Tessellations, in particular, can take on very different appearances based on how they are colored. Even in the
black and white picture above, if you look closely, you will see that the small white squares appear brighter than
the larger ones.” (The Shodor Education Foundation, Inc.)
26
Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
Proportion
• Relationship between garment as a
whole and the size and placement
of parts and shapes (scale)
• Equal and balanced
• Unequal and contrasting
• Affected by line and shape
• Pockets, sleeves, cuffs, yokes, pant
legs, waistbands, and collars affect
proportion
27
Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
Balance
•
•
•
•
Equal distribution of visual weight
on a garment
Visual weight of different
elements are evaluated relative to
vertical and horizontal axes of a
garment
Horizontal balance (top to bottom)
Vertical balance (side to side)
Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
Fig 5.5
28
Rhythm
• Sense of movement and continuity
created by repetition
• Repetition is repeated use of design
element
• Creates a visually smooth transition
through repeated design elements
(different scales of print motif on
sweater and skirt; binding or trim on
collars, cuffs, and pockets; use of
color blocking; contrasting
topstitching; pleats or tucks)
Fig 5.6
29
Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
Emphasis
• Directs viewer’s attention to a
specific area of a garment (splash of
color, converging lines, dramatic
shapes, sharp contrast)
• Creates visual interest
• Directs eye to positive part of body
or lead it away from a problem area
(v-neck or contrasting collar draws
attention to face, bold belts bring
attention to waist, large pockets
bring attention to area of pockets)
Fig 5.7
30
Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
Harmony
• Combined result of individual
elements of design and their
integration through effective use of
design principles
• Creates the effect that a customer
sees when they try on a garment
and look into a mirror
Fig 5.8
31
Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
Design Principles
• Not hard and fast scientific rules
• Can be modified or even breached to achieve a specific
creative objective
• Design decisions must be intentional, not in error in order
to achieve harmony
32
Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
Merchandiser and Production Manager Responsibility
• Focus efforts of design team
• Evaluate each style against fashion trends evolving for
target market
• How does each style utilize design elements and design
principles?
• Team leader, planner, and controller
33
Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
Effective Merchandiser
• Thorough understanding of elements and principles of
design
• Skilled in garment construction
• Inquisitive
• Highly perceptive
• Motivated to reach higher standard of design excellence
34
Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
Computer Technology
• Sophisticated color illustration systems
• CAD systems that drape computer generated fabrics onto 3-D
silhouettes
• Advanced pattern design systems (PDS)
• Product information management systems (PIMs)
• Videoconferencing
• Fashion information services
• Web-based data management systems
Fig 5.9
Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
35
Computer Technology
•
•
•
•
•
Shrink line development cycle
Expand designer creativity
Improve design communications
Enhance process controls
Smooth integration of product development with
manufacturing and sourcing
• Reduce line development costs
• Increase responsiveness in a global environment
Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
Fig 5.10
36
Fashion Information
Services
•
•
•
•
•
•
Worth Global Style Network
Trend reports for all categories
Daily fashion news updates
Store reports from styling services
Fashion and trade events
Resource libraries digitizing works
of art and graphics
37
Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
Integrated Graphics Systems
•
•
•
•
•
•
Styling sketches and fashion illustrations
Technical garment drawings
Color story boards
Logos, labels, embroidery, appliques
Woven, knit and print textile designs
Drape textile designs or scanned fabrics onto illustrations
or photographs
• Print textile designs onto fabric
• Create digital 24-bit color separations
38
Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
Integrated Graphics Systems
• Vision Fashion Studio (www.gerbertechnology.com )
• Ned Graphics Fashion Studio (www.bluefoxta.com )
• Kaledo™ Style - Apparel Design (www.lectra.com )
• DigiFab (www.digifab.com )
• Colorspan (www.colorspan.com )
• Primavision Graphics Moda (www.lectra.com )
• Mimaki (www.mimakiusa.com)
39
Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
Pattern Design Systems
•
•
•
•
•
Accuracy: 1/10 millimeter
Speed: Pattern grading, deriving facings and garment parts
Flexibility: Adjustments can be made at fit session, quickly test new
silhouettes
Optimize fabric use: Auto markers from design station
Can generate 2D patterns from 3D images and 3D images from 2D patterns
40
Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
Pattern Design Systems
• Modaris (www.lectra.com)
• AccuMark Pattern Design (www.gerbertechnology.com)
• Scanvec Garment Systems (www.optitex.com )
• Gerber 3D Direct (www.gerbertechnology.com)
• Tukatech (www.tukatech.com)
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Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
Product Information Management Systems
• Aids merchandisers to control line development and communicate
accurate product data to manufacturing and sourcing
• Utilize relational databases and technical drawing software
• Style information is accurate, up-to-date, and instantly available
42
Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
PIMs Provide
• Product development
calendars
• Technical drawings
• Colorways documentation
• Style description sheets
• Bills of materials
• Packaging details
• Costing data
• Detailed garment
specification sheets
43
Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
PIMs Provide
•
•
•
•
Tables of measurement
Quality control information
Vendor quote sheets
Centralized file
management update in
real time
• Internet integration to
transmit forms and data
worldwide
44
Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
PIMs
• Freeborders PLM Suite (www.freeborders.com)
• JustWin Apparel (www.justwin.com)
• PDM & Web PDM 5.0 (www.gerbertechnology.com )
• Gallery Web (http://www.lectra.com )
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Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
Videoconferencing
• Communicate among multiple locations
• Communicate visual information for product and line
reviews
• Communicate with manufacturing or sourcing for
construction or specification changes
• Picture worth 1000 words
• World Health Organization Travel Advisories (SARS)
46
Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
Videoconferencing
•
•
•
•
•
Levi Strauss
The Gap
J. C. Penney
Wal-Mart
VF Corporation
47
Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies
End Chapter 5
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Chapter 5
Line Development:
Principles and Technologies