Car Tour July 16, 2015 2:00 p.m. 1 1. Daughters Utah Pioneer Museum (300 North Main Street) The Pioneer Memorial Museum (also known as DUP Museum) houses the world’s largest collection of artifacts on one subject, and features displays and collections of memorabilia from the time the earliest settlers entered the Valley of the Great Salt Lake until the joining of the railroads at a location known as Promontory Point, Utah on May 10, 1869. As you enter the Pioneer Memorial Museum, you walk back into history. Here are the belongings of a hardy pioneer people who migrated 2,000 miles west across the plains from Nauvoo, Illinois, and from all parts of the world to seek religious freedom and to build a great city in the Salt Lake Valley and surrounding areas. The artifacts of the pioneers may surprise you. While the museum displays plenty of necessary objects fashioned out of the scarce resources available in Utah, the pioneers also leave a material record of remarkably ornate decorative arts. They carefully tended their luxury items -- as small and delicate as crystal salters or as large and cumbersome as pianos -- all the way across the continent. The museum displays many of these treasures that reminded them of "home" or their loved ones they were leaving behind. Also, pioneer craftsman were astoundingly adaptable to the materials available in Utah, making gorgeous pine furniture and painting it in a fashion that makes it look like more expensive wood, such as mahogany. Early Utahns also owned some of the finest goods available at the time, brought in either with ox team or by railroad later. From rugged, homemade utilitarian objects to elaborate Victorian decor, you can see the full range of the material record of the resilient pioneers at the Pioneer Memorial Museum. Daughters of Utah Pioneers ("DUP") was organized April 11, 1901, under the leadership of Annie Taylor Hyde (daughter of John Taylor) in Salt Lake City. . DUP consists of 185 companies overseeing the activities of 1,050 camps in 15 states and Canada with a total living membership of 21,451. The organization is open to any woman who is "over the age of 18 years, of good character, and a lineal or legally adopted descendant of an ancestor who came to Utah before the completion of the railroad on May 10, 1869. 2 Each year the Board sponsors the publication of historical material into a hardbound book. At the present time there have been five multi-volume sets of books published: Heart Throbs of the West; Treasures of Pioneer History; Our Pioneer Heritage; An Enduring Legacy; Chronicles of Courage and Pioneer Pathways. A four volume set of women's histories called Pioneer Women of Faith and Fortitude containing the stories of 8,000 women was published in 1998. In 1928, the DUP began an official campaign to raise money for the construction of their own museum. In December 2002, the daughters placed a monument on the east side of their museum in Salt Lake City entitled "Ever Pressing Forward - Lest We Forget" showing a pioneer mother and son looking back on a small daughter's grave as they press on the trail. This is a motto they would like every person with Utah pioneer heritage to incorporate into their lives. Admission is free. Research Hours: Monday through Friday 9 am to 4 pm and Wednesday until 7:30 pm 3 2. State Capitol Building – (350 N State Street) The Utah State Capitol is the house of government for the U.S. State of Utah. The building houses the chambers and offices of the Utah State Legislature, the offices of the Governor, Lieutenant Governor, Attorney General, the State Auditor and their staffs. The capitol is the main building of the Utah State Capitol Complex, which is located on Capitol Hill, overlooking downtown Salt Lake City. The Neoclassical revival, Corinthian style building was designed by architect Richard K.A. Kletting, and built between 1912 and 1916. The groundbreaking ceremony took place December 26, 1912. A large amount of soil had to be excavated from the hill side, as the eastern side of the site was as high as the building’s planned fourth story. The excavation was done using a steam shovel which dug into the hillside filling its large dipper, after which it turned around and emptied the dirt into a temporary Dinkey train. The small train then carried the soil to the nearby City Creek Canyon where it was dumped. The capitol was to be built of stone, with a concrete and steel superstructure. The original construction cost was $2,739,538 and replacement cost is estimated at $31,000,000. The capitol’s architect was inspired by Classical architecture, and some local newspapers compared the early designs to Greece’s Parthenon. Many of the building’s details rely on the Corinthian style, in which formality, order, proportion and line are essential design elements. The building is 404 feet long, 240 feet wide and the dome is 250 feet high. The exterior is constructed of Utah granite (Quartz monzonite mined in nearby Little Cottonwood Canyon), as are other Salt Lake City landmarks such as the Salt Lake Temple and LDS Conference Center. The stone façade is symmetrical, with each side being organized around a central pedimented entrance. Fifty-two Corinthian columns, each 32 feet tall by 3.5 feet in diameter sitting on an exposed foundation podium, surround around the south (front), east and west sides of the capitol. The building’s interior has five floors (four main floors and a basement). The floors are made of marble from Georgia. 4 Gravity Hill Above Memory Grove Park, and just East of the Utah State Capitol, there is a road known as “Gravity Hill”. Logic says that when you stop on a hill, put your car in neutral, your car is going to roll downhill, right? Not at Gravity Hill; instead, your vehicle rolls up the hill. Legend is told that when the Utah State Capitol was being built, they wanted people to be “drawn” to it, so they constructed it with several magnets inside the wall. Because of this, it pulls your car towards it. Another legend is that the Utah State Capitol is built on a Native American Burial ground. The story is told that the natives to this land were not happy about the State Capitol being built on their land, so they put a curse on it that would “cause people to gravitate” towards the building. The truth is this phenomenon occurs because the landscape appears that you are going uphill, when in reality you are traveling downhill, thus causing your vehicle to “roll uphill”. To get there take North Temple to State Street, go through the intersection, turn on to 2nd Avenue, go up the hill to B Street, turn left, go up the hill to 11th Avenue, go straight to Bonneville Blvd. You come to a point where another road leaves the main road and veers uphill to the left. Stay on the main road another 100 feet, stop, put it in neutral, and you’ll coast back “uphill”. 5 3. View of Brigham Young’s original lay-out of Salt Lake City from Capitol Hill Salt Lake City, as well as the county, is laid out on a grid plan. Most major streets run very nearly north-south and east-west. The grid's origin is the southeast corner of Temple Square, the block containing the Salt Lake Temple of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints; the north-south axis is Main Street; and the east-west axis is South Temple Street. Addresses are coordinates within the system (similarly to latitude and longitude). The streets are relatively wide, at the direction of Brigham Young, who wanted them wide enough that a wagon team could turn around without "resorting to profanity". These wide streets and grid pattern are typical of other Mormon towns of the pioneer era throughout the West. Though the nomenclature may initially confuse new arrivals and visitors, most consider the grid system an aid to navigation. Some streets have names, such as State Street, which would otherwise be known as 100 East. Other streets have honorary names, such as the western portion of 300 South, named "Adam Galvez Street" (in honor of a local Marine corporal killed in action) or others honoring Rosa Parks, Martin Luther King, Jr., César Chávez, and John Stockton. These honorary names appear only on street signs and cannot be used in postal addresses. In the Avenues neighborhood, north-south streets are given letters of the alphabet, and east-west streets are numbered in 2.5-acre blocks, smaller than those in the rest of the city. Joseph Smith, founder of the Latter Day Saint movement, planned the layout in the "Plat of the City of Zion" (intended as a template for Mormon towns wherever they might be built). In his plan the city was to be developed into 135 10-acre lots. However, the blocks in Salt Lake City became irregular during the late 19th century when the LDS Church lost authority over growth and before the adoption of zoning ordinances in the 1920s. The original 10-acre blocks allowed for large garden plots, and many were supplied with irrigation water from ditches that ran approximately where modern curbs and gutters would be laid. The original water supply was from City Creek. Subsequent development of water resources was from successively more southern streams flowing from the mountains to the east of the city. Some of the old irrigation ditches are still visible in the eastern suburbs, or are still marked on maps, 6 years after they were gone. At its peak, irrigation in the valley comprised over one hundred distinct canal systems, many originating at the Jordan Narrows at the south end of the valley. Salt Lake City Blocks Show Thoughtful Planning If you take a stroll around any city block in downtown Salt Lake, expect that the trip will take much longer than it would to circle a block in any other state. This is due to the fact that Salt Lake City has the largest city blocks in the United States. The early settlers in the Utah valley weren’t trying to win a competition; they were simply following a plan to accommodate their agricultural and lifestyle needs. In fact, the plan for the area’s layout was conceived long before the pioneers even arrived in Utah. The plan for the town was developed by Joseph Smith, founder of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints. Smith’s plan called for each community to be laid out in a square grid pattern, with sufficient land for each family of settlers to have their own home, orchard, and garden. Joseph Smith never lived in the Salt Lake Valley. Nevertheless, his plan for the City of Zion (called the Plat of Zion) was carried out by the early pioneers who settled the land. The grid plan called for the area to be developed in symmetrical 7 x 7 blocks with wide streets. The city was laid out in a series of plats with the original being Plat A. This plat was laid out with 135 10-acre blocks. The blocks were numbered sequentially with block 1 starting at the corner of 300 West and 900 South. As the territory grew, more blocks were added to the grid. In addition to the block numbering system, settlers had simplicity and convenience in mind when they set up the numbering system and addresses. The addresses on the north and east sides of the streets use even numbers and those on the west and south sides use odd numbers. The development of each block within the entire grid was proof of the effective planning that went into settling the valley. The houses on the blocks were positioned up front with a garden and barn in the back. No house on any of the blocks faced each other. This gave the home owners a feeling of spaciousness and privacy and exhibited a level practicality. Due to the limited water resources flowing into the area 7 from small streams, this grid pattern created a much more feasible set up for irrigation. Also, settlers found that it was much more convenient to have their barns and domestic animals near their homes instead of outside the city limits. Within the blocks there was space for public squares that included churches, schools, and other community buildings. Evidence of the original “public squares” exists today which includes Temple Square, the Old Fort (Pioneer Park), the city/county building (Washington Square) and the University of Deseret/Utah (now West High School). Before the pioneers moved west, they experimented with the block-type settlement in Ohio, Missouri, and Illinois. But the topography of Utah’s Great Basin adapted well to the grid structure. The early settlements had a rich social and cultural atmosphere. One of the early pioneer leaders, Brigham Young, recognized that the area’s agriculture was strong. Their crops and fruit trees were flourishing and the settlers maintained a strong sense of community. This type of environment was important; therefore, there was no urgency to develop into a commerce-based society. Many other cities throughout the United States designed their cities based on European styles. But Utah sports the country’s only home-grown layout and has received national recognition for its originality in city planning and development. 8 4. Ensign Peak Ensign Peak is a peak in the foothills near downtown Salt Lake City. It is approximately one mile north of the Utah State Capitol and sits almost directly behind it. On July 26, 1847, Brigham Young and other early members of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latterday Saints climbed this hill and gave it its present name. The hill has religious significance in LDS Church history and in its symbolism. President Boyd K. Packer of the LDS Church said: “On July 26, 1847, their third day in the valley (the second having been the Sabbath), Brigham Young and some others climbed this peak. They thought it a good place to raise an ensign to the nations. Heber C. Kimball wore a yellow bandana. They tied it to Willard Richards’s walking stick and waved it aloft, an ensign to the nations. Brigham Young named it Ensign Peak. Then they descended to their worn-out wagons, to the few things they had carried 2,000 miles, and to their travel-weary followers. It was not what they possessed that gave them strength but what they knew. They busied themselves plowing up gardens, putting up shelters against the winter soon to come. They prepared for others already on the prairie following them to this new gathering place. A revelation, written nine years earlier, directed them to “arise and shine forth, that thy light may be a standard for the nations; And that the gathering together upon the land of Zion, and upon her stakes, may be for a defense, and for a refuge from the storm, and from wrath when it shall be poured out without mixture upon the whole earth” (D&C 115:5–6). Perhaps they wondered what kind of wrath or storm could be poured out that they had not already experienced. They had endured savage opposition, violence, terrorism. Their homes had been burned, their property taken. They were driven from their homes time after time after time. There would be no end to the kinds of challenges that the early Saints would face. New challenges would be different than, but certainly not less than, that through which they had made their way. 9 5. Early Utah Mansions McCune Mansion - (200 N Main Street) The building of the McCune Mansion began in 1898 and was completed at a cost of $1 million in 1901. Early American entrepreneur and railroad tycoon Alfred W. McCune built the Mansion as his family home. Noteworthy interior details, shipped from around the world, include rare materials, such as Utah Onyx, Nubian and Irish marble, French tapestries, South American mahogany, Russian leather, and German mirrors. The exterior was built of native Utah sandstone and the roof, covered with tiles made in the Netherlands. Exotic woods like bird’s-eye maple, South American blond mahogany and 400-yearold English oak radiate warmth and beauty throughout. Guests admire the gold leaf hand gilding, the exquisite murals, decorative scagliola and the detailed artwork echoing century-old brushstrokes. Today original Russian impressionist paintings accent the décor, while the glow from fireplaces and antique fixtures blend with the warmth of the magnificently carved wood to create a most gracious environment. When the McCune Family decided to move to Los Angeles in 1920 they donated the Mansion to the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, which, in turn, used it to establish the McCune School of Music. The McCarthey Family purchased the Mansion in 1999 and generously returned the mansion to its original splendor and exemplary workmanship while faithfully preserving its historical legacy and community prominence. 10 Governor’s Mansion - Kearns Mansion (603 E South Temple) The Kearns Mansion is the official residence of the Governor of Utah. Built in 1902 by United States Senator and mining magnate Thomas Kearns, the house was designed by notable Utah architect Carl M. Neuhausen, who also designed the Cathedral of the Madeleine in Salt Lake City. Thomas Kearns was born in Canada, but his family emigrated to Nebraska when he was a child. At the age of 17, he left the family farm to seek his fortune out West. He reached Park City in 1883 and worked his way up from mucker--the lowest paying job in the mine--to owner of the Silver King Mine which made him a millionaire. Thomas Kearns married Jennie Judge, became an influential businessman in Salt Lake City, was part owner of the Salt Lake Tribune and, eventually, was elected a U.S. Senator. The elegant home was built using the finest materials by the finest craftsmen available, resulting in a quality and style similar to that of Eastern mansions like those of the Vanderbilts and Carnegies. The mansion was completed in 1902 at a cost of $350,000. One newspaper called it “the finest house anywhere in the west”. It has 32 rooms, elegant decorations, and all the most modern technologies. There is a large reception hall in French oak that boasts a mosaic floor of hand-cut marble. The library contrasts black Flemish oak with African red marble, and the dining room exhibits Russian mahogany walls and ceiling. A multi-headed shower closet was among the technical innovations in the mansion, which also included three vaults for jewels, silver, and wine. Neighbors commented that a ton of coal was required daily in winter for heat. In February 1937 Jennie Judge Kearns donated the Kearns Mansion to the State of Utah after the passing of Senator Kearns. The mansion was donated with the condition that it serve as the Governor's Residence. For the next twenty years the governors of Utah used the mansion as their primary residence. From 1957 to 1977, the Utah Historical Society occupied the mansion as a library, museum, and office space. In 1977, Governor Scott Matheson proposed that the mansion be restored as a governor's residence and after an extensive renovation the mansion became a residence once again in 1980. 11 On December 15, 1993 a fire, caused by faulty wiring on the Christmas tree in the main hall, destroyed much of the mansion. A long and painstaking restoration was begun, to restore the mansion to its original state and salvage as much of the historical interior as possible. The $7.8 million restoration brought the home back to its original 1902 style, while providing many current safety standards, such as a fire sprinkler system, new wiring and plumbing, new heating and cooling, a security system, and seismic upgrades. The mansion became a residence again in 1980. Governors Matheson, Bangerter, Leavitt, Walker, Huntsman and Herbert have lived in the home. Edward Day Woodruff Home – (225 N. State Street) This home was built in 1906 and is now operated as the Inn on the Hill. Edward Day Woodruff came to Utah in 1890 from Rock Springs, Wyoming where he had been a surgeon for the Union Pacific Railroad. He hired the prestigious architectural firm of Headlund and Wood to build his family’s 11,000 square foot home. The second Renaissance Revival style home, one of the grandest homes on Capitol Hill, was completed in 1906. Fashioned after an English manor, the living room walls were covered with leather and canvas hand painted by famous local artist, William Culmer. Decorated in the style of the period, the interior featured the finest craftsmanship of the day as well as Tiffany stained glass and Oriental rugs. Devereaux House – (340 W South Temple) The Devereaux House, also known as the Staines-Jennings Mansion, was built in 1857 for William Staines. The house was expanded by William Jennings (Mayor of Salt Lake City from 1882 to 1885). The house was the first to be built on a scale that could be described as a “mansion” in the Salt Lake 12 Valley. It was a social center for the area, and was the scene of a meeting between Brigham Young and Governor Alfred Cumming to resolve the Utah War. The house was sold in 1867 to local entrepreneur William Jennings for $30,000 who added to the house. Jennings, believed to be the Salt Lake Valley’s first millionaire, named the house “Devereaux” for a family property at Yardley, Birmingham in England. Jennings lived there with his wives Jane and Pricilla, who had eleven and fourteen children respectively. Jennings was visited at the house by Secretary of War William Seward and General Philip H. Sheridan in the 1860s and by General William Tecumseh Sherman in the 1870s, whose visit implied a tolerance of Mormon polygamy in Utah by federal officials. Following Jennings’ death in 1886 the house passed through several hands, and was at one time an alcohol treatment facility. David Keith Mansion – (529 E South Temple) This showpiece was designed by Frederic Hale and built in 1900 for David Keith, an immigrant from Nova Scotia, who was partner with Thomas Kearns in Park City’s Silver King mine. The three-story Keith mansion, with its ballroom and notable octagonal rotunda, had fifteen lesser rooms, most of them paneled with Honduran mahogany and native birch. Built at a cost of $35,000 the mansion may have been given its opulent styling in an effort by mining magnate David Keith’s wife to outshine one just completed for Daniel Jackling, and another under construction by Keith’s Park City mines partner, Thomas Kearns. The original skylight on the second floor mezzanine came from Tiffany’s of New York, as did most of the chandeliers. Other features include a cathedral-like octagonal rotunda, a ballroom, and a wine cellar. The butler’s pantry was equipped with a warming table through which hot water circulated. A walk-in refrigerator was cooled by one ton of ice. In the laundry, wet clothes were hung in a closet through which hot air circulated. A grand carriage house to the east, set back from the street behind an entrance bracketed by stone bowl-shaped planters, was built to include a bowling alley, shooting gallery, and servant’s quarters. 13 Salt Lake Mayor Ezra Thompson and his family purchased the home and lived there from 1919 through the late 1930s and it was later leased to Terracor, a landdevelopment firm. In 1986 a fire charred and blackened much of the building’s handsome interior. The Tiffany glass skylight above the mezzanine was shattered. Delicate metal work of its decorative chandelier had melted, and much of the lustrous cherry-wood paneling was irretrievably lost. In mid-1987 work began on an eighteen-month project that brought the treasured building to its present, better-than-former state. Bob Baird, an expert glassworker and artist, duplicated the lost Tiffany skylight and window. Violin-maker Paul Hart duplicated the original hand-carved wooden decorations. Furniture-makers Geoff Fitzwilliam and MacFinlayson rebuilt the curving staircase. In addition to the mansion, a flanking, back-of-the-grounds gem is the two-story carriage house. Perhaps the largest such structure in the city, it has also been carefully remodeled to serve as company offices. As with the mansion proper, the integrity of the carriage house has been tastefully preserved. Walker Mansion – (610 E South Temple) This mansion was built in 1904 on Salt Lake’s historic South Temple for Matthew Walker, co-founder of Walker Bank. The mansion has a red tile roof, arched colonnade, cream-colored stucco exterior, and broad balcony. In the foyer, Walker had an Aeolian organ with pipes extending to the third floor where a Tiffany’s skylight and chandelier graced the ceiling. Other luxuries included a wine cellar, bowling alley, and stable. The architect was Frederic Hale, who also designed the Keith mansion. Through the years it was altered and converted to office space. It took a thorough restoration project spanning over three years to bring the mansion back to its former glory. The centerpiece of the building is the grand entryway with its vaulted ceiling inlaid with stained glass artwork. 14 The Kahn House – (678 E South Temple) The Kahn House is a Victorian showplace with “gingerbread,” leaded glass, shingled gables, a graceful tower, shady porches, artfully managed brick chimneys and other Victorian elements designed by Henry Monheim, dating to the 1880s. Nowadays, the turreted building is no longer a residence. The businessmen who now own the home have preserved it in meticulous style. The first member of the Jewish Kahn family to reach Utah, Prussian-born Samuel Kahn, settled in Great Salt Lake City in 1859, where he promptly became a partner in a dry goods firm. A younger Kahn brother arrived and the brothers joined forces with one George Bodenburg to establish a wholesale and retail grocery and dry goods business that was soon serving customers in the mining towns of Idaho and Montana as well as Utah. Walter & Esther Filer House – (943 E South Temple) The Walter and Esther Filer House was built in the early 1900’s and is now known as Haxton Manner. In 1889 Mr. Filer was associated with the Stanley B. Milner mining enterprises of Salt Lake City. Another prominent individual who lived in the home includes Anthony Godbe, president of the Consolidated Mining & Smelting Company and owner of some of the finest apartments in Salt Lake City. 15 Albert Fisher Mansion and Carriage House – (1206 W 200 S) In 1893 Albert Fisher had a mansion constructed in a sparsely populated neighborhood on Salt Lake City’s west side near the banks of the Jordan River. Fisher, who had immigrated to Utah from Seebach, Baden, Germany in 1881, chose the location on 200 South because of its proximity to his work. The two-story, twelve-room house, designed in the Victorian Eclectic style, stood a stone’s throw from what eventually became the largest brewery in Utah, the A. Fisher Brewing Company. Fisher’s beer business was booming at the turn of the century. By 1905 Fisher was brewing 75,000 barrels to distribute to the many taverns he owned in the Salt Lake Valley. A. Fisher Brewing, along with the Salt Lake Brewing Company, was bigger than Coors. Such skillful brewing and entrepreneurial know-how made Albert Fisher an industry titan and Fisher Mansion matched his titanic status in the brewing industry and in Salt Lake. A. Fisher Brewing was the only brewery to reopen in Utah after the repeal of Prohibition. The Fisher mansion remained a well-used and well-loved structure in Salt Lake for 120 years, adapting to new functions and changing to fulfill the needs of the surrounding community. For its first 51 years members of the Fisher family inhabited the house. In 1945, Albert and Alma’s daughter leased the mansion to the Catholic Church. The residence became a convent for Our Lady Queen of Peace and Our Lady of Victory Missionary Sisters. Then in 1970 the mansion became St. Mary’s Home for Men, an alcohol and drug abuse treatment facility. In 2006, the Salt Lake City government purchased the house, which was originally the home of a prominent German brewer. Restoration costs were estimated at over $1.7 million, so the city began raising money by arranging tours of the property, and $150,000 was obtained through a federal grant. 16 Armstrong Mansion – (667 E 100 S) The Armstrong mansion was built in 1893 as the family home of Francis and Isabelle Armstrong. Francis Armstrong was a two-time elected mayor of Salt Lake City (1886 and 1888) and entrepreneur, notably in the Taylor, Romney & Armstrong lumber and construction company. The mansion is one of the finest examples of Queen Anne Style architecture in Salt Lake City. The Mansion included a beautiful master bedroom, Victorian dining room, library, parlor, and living quarters for house staff. The Mansion was also proudly one of only three homes in all of Salt Lake City to provide indoor-plumbing and running water for its occupants. St. Mark’s Episcopal Cathedral – (231 E 100 S) Built in 1871, it is the third oldest Episcopal Cathedral in the United States and the oldest continuously used worship building in Utah. It was designed by noted architect, Richard Upjohn, in the Gothic Revival style. The church’s pipe organ, built in Scotland and dating back to 1854, is said to be the oldest in Utah. The original cornerstone was laid in 1870 under the supervision of Bishop Daniel Sylvester Tuttle with funding from the Episcopalians in New York and Pennsylvania. The cathedral was consecrated on May 14, 1874. A fire in 1935 gutted the sanctuary, but the church was rebuilt following the original design. The early Episcopal Church left its mark in the community such that by 1880, members of the church had established St. Mark’s School for Boys, Rowland Hall School for Girls, and St. Mark’s Hospital. Rowland Hall St. Mark’s School is now merged and offers education today for K-12. 17 6. Brigham Young’s Gravesite – (194 East 1st Avenue) The grave of Brigham Young is located in the Brigham Young Family Memorial Cemetery in downtown Salt Lake City Utah. He was born June 1, 1801 at Whitingham, Vermont and died August 29, 1877 at Salt Lake City, Utah. Brigham Young was second president of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints. He led the Mormon pioneers from Winter Quarters to the Salt Lake Valley. He became Governor of the Provisional State of Deseret and later Governor of the Territory of Utah. The grave site is open to the public and can be viewed most anytime. 18 7. The Stump (the valley’s only tree (1847) when the pioneers entered Salt Lake Valley (240 South 600 East) A little strip of grass between 300 and 400 South on 600 East holds a treasured memory and a bit of a mystery. At one time, not far from the median, stood a huge cedar tree, known as the “lone cedar tree,” that was said to have sheltered the pioneers, miners, and various travelers who came out of Emigration Canyon down 300 South, which was then known as Emigration Street or Emigration Road. The tree eventually died. But the lone tree was not forgotten. The Daughters of Utah Pioneers wanted to keep its memory alive. On July 4, 1933, the group dedicated a memorial that still stands. The cupola sheltered about 3 feet of the original tree, known as the Old Cedar Post. A plaque, still there, reads: “The street to the north was originally Emigration Road – the only approach from the East. Over this road the pioneers of 1847 and subsequent years entered the valley of the Great Salt Sea. They found growing near this site of lone cedar and paused beneath its shade. Songs were sung and prayers of gratitude offered by those early pilgrims. Later the cedar tree became a meeting place for the loggers going to the canyons, children played beneath its branches, lovers made it a trysting place. Because of its friendly influence on the lives of these early men and women we dedicate this site to their memory.” Although the memorial was placed in the middle of 600 East, it originally stood at 300 South and 600 East. The tree, or rather what remained of it, was moved. “It was in someone’s yard.” But something mysterious happened on September 21, 1958. Vandals cut away the remaining trunk on the memorial, leaving only a flat stump. An old police report from the Salt Lake City Police Department says “Officer Hendricksen found that the tree of 6th East and 4th South had been cut down. In checking it was found that there was one old saw mark on the tree about 20 inches from the ground, and the other about 16 inches from the ground. These saw cuts were only part way through and then the post or tree was broken off probably with some considerable force.” The report went on to say that, “Marilyn Hilton (a witness) stated that at 9:30 p.m. she noticed a group of five or six boys and girls between the ages of 13 and 15 walking south on 6th East from 3rd South. The girls were wearing pedal pushers and the boys were wearing Levis.” A search of the area revealed nothing, not the suspects, nor the remains of the tree. In short, no one knows where the tree is. In 1960, a new memorial was built to explain what happened to the tree. The new addition says: “Lone Cedar Tree. Although willows grew along the banks of streams, a lone cedar tree near this spot became Utah’s first famous landmark. Someone in a moment of thoughtlessness cut it down, leaving only the stump which is part of this monument. In the glory of my prime I was the Pioneers’ friend.” Now even the stump is gone, and all that remains is the pedestal is rested on. 19 8. This is the Place Monument and Pioneer Village – (2601 E Sunnyside Ave) This Is The Place Monument On July 24, 1847, Wilford Woodruff came out of the mouth of Emigration Canyon, "in full view of the great valley or Bason [of] the Salt Lake and land of promise held in reserve by the hand of GOD for a resting place for the Saints upon which a portion of the Zion of God will be built. We gazed in wonder and admiration upon the vast rich fertile valley. . . . Our hearts were surely made glad after a Hard Journey from Winter Quarters." In 1917 B. H. Roberts and a Boy Scout troop built a wooden marker identifying the spot where Brigham Young’s party had first entered the valley. In 1921 this was replaced by a white stone obelisk that still stands east of the 1917 monument. In 1947, on the 100th anniversary of the entry of the pioneers into the valley, This is The Place Monument designed by Mahonri M. Young, was dedicated at a ceremony attended by nearly 50,000 people. 60 feet high and 84 feet wide, it features 15 plaques and many statues and bas-reliefs honoring the Mormon Pioneers, American Indians and others who explored the Great Basin. In 1957, a group of private citizens bought much of the land now contained in the Park and gave it to the State of Utah to preserve it from commercial development. Statuary Walk This walkway along the lawns featured various sculpture and monuments highlighting pioneer life. The National Pony Express Monument also is located here. This Is The Place Heritage Park The location of the park is where, on July 24, 1847, Brigham Young first saw the Salt Lake Valley that would soon become the Mormon pioneers' new home. Members of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints believe that Young had a vision shortly after they were exiled from Nauvoo, Illinois. In the vision, he saw the place where the Latter-day Saints would settle and "make the desert blossom like a rose" and where they would build their State of Deseret. As the account goes, Brigham Young was very sick with Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever and was riding in the back of a wagon. After exiting Emigration Canyon and cresting a small hill, he asked to look out of the wagon. Those with him opened the canvas cover and propped him up so he could see the empty desert valley below. He then proclaimed, "It is enough. This 20 is the right place. Drive on." The words, "this is the place," were soon heard throughout the wagon train as the Mormon pioneers descended into the valley, their long journey having come to an end. The statement was first attributed to Young by Wilford Woodruff more than thirty years after the pioneer advent. Over the next several years, tens of thousands of Mormon pioneers emerged from Emigration Canyon and first saw their new home from this same location. A Utah state holiday, Pioneer Day, occurs each year on July 24 to commemorate the Mormon pioneers' entry into the valley. This 450-acre Living History site offers visitors a look at life in 19th Century Utah from the Mormon arrival in 1847 to statehood in 1896. Heritage Village, located within the Park, presents a pioneer experience for all ages. At Settlers' Pond, a Native American Village explores the cultures of Utah's first residents. Brigham Young's Forest Farmhouse was moved in 1975 from the Forest Dale area in the central valley to the Park for restoration. In 1979, five original pioneer homes were donated to the Park and restored; a small bowery was constructed. The 1980s included a replica of the original Social Hall, located in downtown Salt Lake City, two adobe homes, two frame homes and one log cabin were relocated to the Park. The blacksmith shop also was completed. 1992 through 1995 was a period of major expansion in which the Manti Z.C.M.I store was dismantled and reconstructed in the Park, a pioneer dugout home was constructed, 15 replica structures were built and the Hickman Cabin was relocated from Fairview to the Park. Children can ride a pony, visit the Petting Corral, ride a mini-train, do actual pioneer chores and make take-home crafts, among other things. Adults will enjoy authentic craft demonstrations by working tradesmen and visiting the 40+ original or replica homes and shops in the Village. Dining is available at the Monument Cafe and Huntsman Grill. Cold drinks/snacks/old-fashioned candy are sold at the ZCMI general store, an original building brought to the Park from central Utah. Shopping is at the Visitors' Center just outside the Village gate. Admission to Heritage Village: $8/adults, $6/children (3-11) and seniors (55+) Hours: Daily, 9 am - 5 pm (limited programming Sundays) This Is The Place Heritage Park is located at the mouth of Emigration Canyon, across the street from Hogle Zoo in Salt Lake City. The Park is accessible from I-15 via the 600 South Exit (continue east on 800 South to the Park); and from I-80 via the Foothill Boulevard exit (continue north to Sunnyside Avenue, then turn east). 21 History & Culture The history of the Mormon Trail cannot be understood without an awareness of the Mormon religion itself. The great Mormon migration of 1846-1847 was but one step in the Mormons' quest for religious freedom and growth. The Mormon religion, later known as the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, was founded by Joseph Smith on April 6, 1830 in Fayette, New York. Membership grew rapidly, but not all were enthused about Smith's new religion. Persecution of the Mormons led to subsequent moves westward for the church, first to Ohio, then to Missouri and then to Nauvoo, Illinois. Smith envisioned a permanent settlement in Nauvoo. But both the Mormons' time in Nauvoo and Smith's life were to be shortlived. From 1839 until 1846, the Mormon church was headquartered in Nauvoo where church members were able to prosper and practice their religion peacefully. But before long, tensions arose when many citizens began to view the Mormons with contempt. Mormon practices such as polygamy, in combination with the quick growth of the church, contributed to a growing intolerance among some Illinois citizens. Hostilities broke out and on June 27, 1844, Joseph Smith and his brother Hyrum were killed by an angry mob while jailed in Carthage, Illinois. Brigham Young stepped in as Smith's successor and immediately began furthering Smith's plans for a move to the Far West. By now, the Mormon population of Nauvoo neared 11,000, making it one of the largest cities in Illinois. Yet the persecution of Mormons continued. In one month alone in 1845, more than 200 Mormon homes and farm buildings were burned around Nauvoo in an attempt by foes to force out the Mormons. Possible locations for a new home for the Mormons included Oregon, California and Texas. But with Smith's acquisition of John Fremont's map and report of the West in 1844, the Salt Lake region of Utah was chosen as the Mormons' destination. Young and his devotees made plans for an exodus to this new land. By 1846 the Mormon migration had begun. The 1846 Trek When Brigham Young and 3,000 Mormons set out for Utah on February 4, 1846, expedition leaders expected to reach their goal by the coming winter. But unforeseen difficulties forced the Mormons to abandon their original schedule. The journey was split into two sections: Nauvoo to Omaha, Nebraska in 1846; and, Omaha to the Salt Lake Valley of Utah in 1847. 22 The first section - 265 miles - tested the Mormons most severely. Although plans had already been made for the first group to leave Nauvoo in the spring of 1846, rumors of federal persecution and revocation of the Nauvoo city charter persuaded Brigham Young to begin the move earlier than expected. February that year in Iowa was marked by harsh weather and bitter cold. With 500 wagons, the Mormons grimly faced miles of axle-deep mud bogs and rough, obscure trails. Many of the emigrants were unskilled in trail life and leadership was disorganized. Because of the hurried departure, important provisions had been left behind by many families. All of these factors combined to cause difficulties on a day to day basis. Yet as the Mormons forged ahead, they became more organized and began traveling in groups of 10s, 50s or 100s. To make things easier on Mormons who had delayed their departure from Nauvoo, improvements were made to the route along the way. Settlements such as Garden Grove and Mt. Pisgah were established to provide way stations for the coming immigration. Finally, by June 13, 1846, the first group of Mormons reached the Missouri River at Council Bluffs, Iowa. It had taken 120 days to cross 265 miles for an average of 2.25 miles a day. Some of these Mormons stayed in Council Bluffs, which was renamed Kanesville, while others crossed the Missouri and established Winter Quarters in present-day Omaha. Brigham Young decided that the original plan to reach the Rockies by fall was now impossible. The Mormons would be staying on the Missouri until the following spring. Winter Quarters would prove to be a harsh stopping place during the winter of 18461847. The 1847 Trek By the time the spring of 1847 approached in Winter Quarters, nearly 400 Mormon lives had been lost to various causes. Yet there was a vital bit of good news during their stay. The news came when the famous Jesuit, Father Pierre Jean de Smet, passed through Winter Quarters on his way east. The Jesuit was one of the few white men who had ever seen the Great Salt Lake. His information on routes and conditions was extended freely to the Mormons, who eagerly anticipated their next move west. On April 5, 1847, Brigham Young led the first Mormon wagon train out of Winter Quarters bound for Utah. Conditions, timing, experience and organization were on the Mormons' side this time and the trip went much easier than the previous year's 23 trial. 148 people, three of whom were women, 72 wagons, and a large collection of livestock made up this first group. For this first leg of the journey, the Mormons generally followed the Oregon Trail, also known as the Great Platte River Road. The well-beaten route took them along the Platte River through Nebraska, then along the North Platte River to Fort Caspar, then across Wyoming to Fort Bridger. At Fort Bridger on July 9, the Mormons left the Oregon Trail with 116 miles left to go. The previous year, the Reed-Donner party had blazed a route across Utah on their way to California. The Mormons took advantage of this route and followed it through the Wasatch Range and into the Great Salt Lake region. Yet this last 116 miles were the most difficult of the entire journey. The people were filthy and weary and both wagons and livestock were weakened from the previous 1,000 miles of trail. The Wasatch Range proved to be a formidable barrier with its brush-choked canyons and steep passes. Finally, on July 24, 1847, the first group of Mormons arrived at their new home in the Great Salt Lake Valley. Immediately, the Mormons began establishing the makings of a town and planted crops in preparation for the coming Mormon emigrants. From 1847 to 1869, until the completion of the transcontinental railroad, nearly 70,000 Mormons would make the journey along the Mormon Trail. 24 Rio Tinto Kennecott Rio Tinto Kennecott mines essential elements that make m odern living possible. From medicine, food and shampoo, to cell phones, computers, CAT scans and hybrid electric cars, nearly everything you use today relies on materials that they produce. The mine has been a fixture in the Salt Lake Valley for more than 109 years. They are the largest private economic driver in Utah. No other private sector operation has generated more production, exports, income and employment than Kennecott. Kennecott Utah Copper Corporation (KUCC), a division of Rio Tinto Group, is a mining, smelting, and refining company. Its corporate headquarters are located in South Jordan, Utah. Kennecott operates the Bingham Canyon Mine, one of the largest open-pit copper mines in the world in Bingham Canyon, Salt Lake County, Utah. The company was first formed in 1898 as the Boston Consolidated Mining Company. The current corporation was formed in 1989. Utah Copper Company had its start when Enos Austin Wall realized the potential of copper deposits in Bingham Canyon, 15 miles (24 km) southwest of Salt Lake City, Utah in 1887 and acquired claims to the land. Underground mining in the area was begun in 1890. In 1907, the Utah Copper mill in Magna started operation. The Bingham and Garfield Railway opened in 1911 to transport the ore, replacing the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad's line. In 1936, Kennecott acquired all the assets of the Utah Copper Company. During World War II, Bingham set new world records for copper mining and produced about 30% of the copper used by the Allies. Many women also worked in the mines, mills, and smelters. As the mine in Utah expanded, it subsumed the land on which the town of Bingham was built, and the city ceased to exist in 1971. 25 Today, as the second largest copper producer in the United States, Kennecott Utah Copper provides about 18-25% percent of the U.S.'s copper needs. Kennecott’s Bingham Canyon Mine is one of the largest man-made excavations in the world. It is one of the top producing copper mines in the world with cumulative production at more than 19 million tons of copper. In 2011, Kennecott produced approximately 237,000 tons of copper, along with 379,000 troy ounces of gold, 3.2 million troy ounces of silver, about 30 million pounds of molybdenum, and about 1 million tons of sulfuric acid, a by-product of the smelting process. Since Rio Tinto purchased Kennecott Utah Copper in 1989 it has invested about $2 billion in the modernization of KUC’s operations. KUCC has also spent more than $350 million on the cleanup of historic mining waste and $100 million on groundwater cleanup. Rio Tinto employs 2,400 people and hundreds of contractors in Utah. 26 Brigham Young University – Provo, Utah Brigham Young University (often referred to as BYU or, colloquially, The Y) is a private research university located in Provo, Utah. It is owned and operated by The Church of Jesus Christ of Latterday Saints (LDS Church), and, excluding online students, is the largest religious university and one of the largest private universities in the United States, with 34,000 oncampus students. The main campus in Provo, Utah, sits on approximately 560 acres nestled at the base of the Wasatch Mountains and includes 295 buildings. BYU's Harold B. Lee Library, which The Princeton Review ranked as the No. 1 "Great College Library" in 2004, has approximately 8½ million items in its collections, contains 98 miles of shelving, and can seat 4,600 people. The Spencer W. Kimball Tower is the tallest building in Provo. BYU's Marriott Center, used as a basketball arena, can seat over 22,000 and is one of the largest on-campus arenas in the nation. Interestingly absent on the campus of this church owned university is a campus chapel. Notwithstanding, each Sunday LDS Church services for students are conducted on campus, but due to the large number of students attending these services, nearly all of the buildings and possible meeting spaces on campus are utilized. Approximately 98 percent of the university's 34,000 students are members of the LDS Church. Students attending BYU are required to follow an honor code, which mandates behavior in line with LDS teachings such as academic honesty, adherence to dress and grooming standards, and abstinence from the consumption of drugs and alcohol. An education at BYU is also less expensive than at similar private universities, since "a significant portion" of the cost of operating the university is subsidized by the church's tithing funds. History Brigham Young University's origin can be traced back to 1862 when a man named Warren Dusenberry started a Provo school in a prominent adobe building called Cluff Hall, which was located in the northeast corner of 200 East and 200 North. On October 16, 1875, Brigham Young, then president of the LDS Church, personally purchased the Lewis Building. Said Young about his vision: "I hope to see an 27 Academy established in Provo... at which the children of the Latter-day Saints can receive a good education unmixed with the pernicious atheistic influences that are found in so many of the higher schools of the country." The average GPA for students admitted in 2013 was 3.82. U.S. News and World Report describes BYU's selectivity as being "more selective" and compares it with such universities as the University of Texas at Austin and The Ohio State University. In addition, BYU is ranked 26th in colleges with the most freshman Merit Scholars, with 88 in 2006. For 2013, U.S. News & World Report ranked BYU as No. 62 for national universities in the United States. BYU is also ranked No. 19 in the U.S. News and World Report's "Great Schools, Great Prices" lineup, and No. 12 in lowest student-incurred debt. Due in part to the school's emphasis on undergraduate research, in rankings for 20082009, BYU was ranked No. 10 nationally for the number of students who go on to earn PhDs, No. 1 nationally for students who go on to dental school, No. 6 nationally for students who go on to law school, and No. 10 nationally for students who go on to medical school. In 2009, the university's Marriott School of Management received a No. 5 ranking by BusinessWeek for its undergraduate programs. In 2010, an article in the Wall Street Journal listing institutions whose graduates were the top-rated by recruiters ranked BYU #11. Using 2010 fiscal year data, the Association of University Technology Managers ranked BYU #3 in an evaluation of universities creating the most startup companies through campus research. Scientists associated with BYU have created some notable inventions. Philo T. Farnsworth, inventor of the electronic television, received his education at BYU, and later returned to do fusion research, receiving an honorary degree from the university. Harvey Fletcher, also an alumnus of BYU, inventor of stereophonic sound, went on to carry out the now famous oil-drop experiment with Robert Millikan, and was later Founding Dean of the BYU College of Engineering. H. Tracy Hall, inventor of the man-made diamond, left General Electric in 1955 and became a full professor of chemistry and Director of Research at BYU. While there, he invented a new type of diamond press, the tetrahedral press. Over three quarters of the student body have some proficiency in a second language (numbering 107 languages in total). This is partially due to the fact that 45 percent of the student body at BYU have been missionaries for LDS Church, and many of them learned a foreign language as part of their mission assignment. During any given semester, about one-third of the student body is enrolled in foreign language classes, a rate nearly four times the national average. BYU offers courses in over 60 different languages, many with advanced courses that are seldom offered elsewhere. Several of 28 its language programs are the largest of their kind in the nation, the Russian program being one example. The university was selected by the United States Department of Education as the location of the national Middle East Language Resource Center, making the school a hub for experts on that region. It was also selected as a Center for International Business Education Research, a function of which is to train business employees in international languages and relations. Beyond this, BYU also runs a very large study abroad program, with satellite centers in London, Jerusalem, and Paris, as well as more than 20 other sites. Nearly 2,000 students take advantage of these programs yearly. In 2001, the Institute of International Education ranked BYU as the number one university in the U.S. to offer students study abroad opportunities. The BYU Jerusalem Center, which was closed in 2000 due to student security concerns related to the Second Intifada and, more recently, the 2006 Israel-Lebanon conflict, was reopened to students in the Winter 2007 semester. A few special additions enhance the language-learning experience. For example, BYU's International Cinema, featuring films in several languages, is the largest and longest-running university-run foreign film program in the country. BYU also offers an intensive foreign language living experience, the Foreign Language Student Residence. This is an on-campus apartment complex where students commit to speak only their chosen foreign language while in their apartments. Each apartment has at least one native speaker to ensure correct language usage. The campus is home to several museums containing exhibits from many different fields of study. BYU's Museum of Art, for example, is one of the largest and most attended art museums in the Mountain West. The Museum of Peoples and Cultures is a museum of archaeology and ethnology. It focuses on native cultures and artifacts of the Great Basin, American Southwest, Mesoamerica, Peru, and Polynesia. Home to more than 40,000 artifacts and 50,000 photographs, it documents BYU's archaeological research. The BYU Museum of Paleontology was built in 1976 to display the many fossils found by BYU's Dr. James A. Jensen. It holds many artifacts from the Jurassic Period (210-140 million years ago), and is one of the top five collections in the world of fossils from that time period. It has been featured in magazines, newspapers, and on television internationally. The Monte L. Bean Life Science Museum was formed in 1978. It features several forms of plant and animal life on display and available for research by students and scholars. The BYU Ballroom Dance Company is known as one of the best formation ballroom dance teams in the world, having won the U.S. National Formation Dance Championship every year since 1982. BYU's Ballroom dance team has won first place in Latin or Standard (or both) many times when they have competed at the Blackpool 29 Dance Festival, they were the first U.S. team to win the formation championships at the famed British Championships in Blackpool England in 1972. The Young Ambassadors are a song and dance performing group with a 50-year history at BYU. In the 1960s their world tour stops included Lebanon, Jordan, and Iraq. The group has performed in over 56 nations. The royalty of Thailand and Jordan, along with persons of high office in countries such as India, have been among their audiences. Many visitors to BYU, and Utah Valley as a whole, report being surprised by the culturally conservative environment. Brigham Young University's Honor Code, which all BYU students agree to follow as a condition of studying at BYU, prohibits the consumption of alcoholic beverages, tobacco, etc. The Princeton Review has rated BYU the "#1 stone cold sober school" in the nation for several years running. BYU's 2014 "#1 stone cold" sober rating marked the 17th year in a row that the school had earned that rating. According to the Uniform Crime Reports, incidents of crime in Provo are lower than the national average. Murder is rare, and robberies are about 1/10 the national average. 30 University of Utah – Salt Lake City The University of Utah (also referred to as the U, the U of U) is a public coeducational space-grant research university in Salt Lake City, Utah. As the state's flagship university, the university offers more than 100 undergraduate majors and more than 92 graduate degree programs. Graduate studies include the S.J. Quinney College of Law and the School of Medicine, Utah's only medical school. The university's athletic teams, the Utes, participate in NCAA Division I athletics as a member of the Pacific-12 Conference. Its football team has received national attention in recent years for winning the 2005 Fiesta Bowl and the 2009 Sugar Bowl. The university was established in 1850 as the University of Deseret by the General Assembly of the provisional State of Deseret, making it Utah's oldest institution of higher education. It received its current name in 1892, four years before Utah attained statehood, and moved to its current location in 1900. History A Board of Regents was organized by Brigham Young to establish a university in the Salt Lake Valley. The university was established on February 28, 1850, as the University of Deseret by the General Assembly of the provisional State of Deseret, and Orson Spencer was appointed as the first chancellor of the university. Early classes were held in private homes or wherever space could be found. The university closed in 1853 due to lack of funds and lack of feeder schools. Following years of intermittent classes in the Salt Lake City Council House, the university began to be re-established in 1867. The university moved out of the council house into the Union Academy building in 1876 and into Union Square in 1884. In 1892, the school's name was changed to the University of Utah, and John R. Park began arranging to obtain land belonging to the U.S. Army's Fort Douglas on the east bench of the Salt Lake Valley, where the university moved permanently in 1900. Additional Fort Douglas land has been granted to the university over the years, and the fort was officially closed on October 26, 1991. Upon his death in 1900, Dr. John R. Park bequeathed his entire fortune to the university. 31 The university grew rapidly in the early 20th century but was involved in an academic freedom controversy in 1915 when Joseph T. Kingsbury recommended that five faculty members be dismissed after a graduation speaker made a speech critical of Utah governor William Spry. One third of the faculty resigned in protest of these dismissals. Some felt that the dismissals were a result of the LDS Church's influence on the university, while others felt that they reflected a more general pattern of repressing religious and political expression that might be deemed offensive. The controversy was largely resolved when Kingsbury resigned in 1916, but university operations were again interrupted by World War I, and later The Great Depression and World War II. Student enrollment dropped to a low of 3,418 during the last year of World War II, but A. Ray Olpin made substantial additions to campus following the war, and enrollment reached 12,000 by the time he retired in 1964. Growth continued throughout the following decades as the university developed into a center for computer, medical, and other research. During the 2002 Winter Olympics, the university hosted the Olympic Village, a housing complex for the Olympic and Paralympic athletes, as well as the opening and closing ceremonies. Campus takes up 1,534 acres, including the Health Sciences complex, Research Park, and Fort Douglas. It is located on the east bench of the Salt Lake Valley, close to the Wasatch Range and approximately 2 miles east of downtown Salt Lake City. The health sciences complex, at the northeast end of campus, includes the University of Utah Medical Center, Primary Children's Medical Center, the Huntsman Cancer Institute, the Moran Eye Center, and the Spencer Eccles Health Sciences Library. At the southeast end of campus is Research Park, which is home to research companies including ARUP Laboratories, Evans & Sutherland, Sarcos, Idaho Technology, and Myriad Genetics. The university offers 72 undergraduate majors. Students at the undergraduate level can also create an individualized major under the direction of the Bachelor of University Studies program and the supervision of a tenure-track faculty member. The university is classified as a research university with very high research activity by the Carnegie Foundation, with research and training awards for 2010-2011 amounting to US$410,563,908. The university's research expenditures were the 67th highest in the nation in the Center for Measuring University Performance's 2008 report. Additionally, the university was the 58th highest for federal research expenditures, 52nd for National Academy of Sciences membership, 50th for faculty awards, 51st for doctorates awarded, and 42nd for postdoctoral appointees 32 Of admitted freshmen in 2007-2008, the average GPA was 3.4 and the average ACT score was 23.5. The university uses an admissions index number that gives equal weight to GPA and ACT/SAT scores. The University of Utah has the only accredited architecture program in Utah, as well as the only medical school.] The medical school has made several notable contributions to medicine, such as establishing the first Cerebrovascular Disease Unit west of the Mississippi River in 1970 and administering the world's first permanent artificial heart, the Jarvik-7, to Barney Clark in 1982. The university has made unique contributions to the study of genetics due in part to long-term genealogy efforts of the LDS Church, which has allowed researchers to trace genetic disorders through several generations. The relative homogeneity of Utah's population also makes it an ideal laboratory for studies of population genetics. The university is home to the Genetic Science Learning Center, a resource which educates the public about genetics through its website. In March 2012, the university received unanimous approval from the board of trustees to create a new academic college, the College of Dentistry, which is the university's first new college in sixty years. The new college has received funding for a new structure and has started as a debt-free program. The University of Utah was one of the original four nodes of ARPANET, the world's first packet-switching computer network and embryo of the current worldwide Internet. The S.J. Quinney College of Law, founded in 1913, was the only law school in Utah until the 1970s. The University of Utah College of Pharmacy is 4th in the nation for NIH research grants. The department of Pharmacology and Toxicology within the School of Pharmacy is world renowned for research in epilepsy treatment with their Anticonvulsant Drug Development (ADD) program. In 2002, the university was one of 20 schools to make the U.S. News & World Report College Sports Honor Roll. In 2005, Utah became the first school to produce No. 1 overall draft picks in both the NFL draft and NBA draft for the same year. In 2004–2005, the football team, coached by Urban Meyer and quarterbacked by Alex Smith, along with defensive great Eric Weddle, went 11–0 during the regular season and defeated Pittsburgh 35–7 in the 2005 Fiesta Bowl, becoming the first team from a conference without an automatic Bowl Championship Series (BCS) bid to go to a BCS bowl game. The team ended its perfect 12–0 season ranked 4th in AP polling. 33 2008–2009 was another undefeated year for the football team, coached by Kyle Whittingham, as they finished the season 13–0 and defeated Alabama 31–17 in the 2009 Sugar Bowl. Utah finished the season 2nd in AP polling, their highest rank ever. At the end of the season, the Utes were the only unbeaten team in the country, with the nation's longest active streak of bowl victories. The Utah Utes moved to the Pac-12 Conference for the start of the 2011–2012 football season. The women's gymnastics team, the Red Rocks, has won ten national championships, including the 1981 AIAW championship, and placed 2nd nationally eight times. As of 2013, it has qualified for the NCAA championship every year since 1976, the only program to do so. A large portion of university students live off-campus, as the university is located in a large metropolitan area and has beds for less than 10% of its undergraduate population in residence halls and single student apartments. An additional 1,115 family apartments are available to students, staff, and faculty. The University of Utah has a dry campus, meaning that alcohol is banned on campus. In 2004, Utah became the first state with a law expressly permitting concealed weapons on public university campuses. The University of Utah tried to uphold its gun ban but the Utah Supreme Court rejected the ban in 2006. 34 City Creek Shopping Mall The City Creek Center is a mixeduse development with an upscale open-air shopping center, office and residential buildings, fountain, and simulated creek near Temple Square in downtown Salt Lake City, Utah. It is an undertaking by Property Reserve, Inc. (the commercial real estate division of the Corporation of the President of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church) and Taubman Centers, Inc. The center integrates shopping and residential elements, with foliagelined walkways and streams covering three blocks in the heart of downtown Salt Lake. The City Creek Center opened to the general public on March 22, 2012. This shopping, office and residential center encompass nearly 20 acres of downtown Salt Lake City. The City Creek Center is part of an estimated $5 billion sustainable design project to revitalize downtown Salt Lake City. The City Creek Center project itself has been estimated to cost around $1.5 billion The City Creek Center features 700,000 ft of mixed-use residential, office and retail space with the main mall itself featuring an open-air design. The City Creek Center also won an award for its retractable roof. The mall is intended to cater predominantly to pedestrian traffic. Multi-level sidewalks feature six total acres of green space, fountains, and a stream. A pedestrian skyway links the two city blocks across Main Street. The site is served by the City Center station of the TRAX light rail system, and a large underground parking lot capable of holding 5,600 vehicles. The skybridge connecting the 2 upper floors of the shopping center across Main Street weighs 320,000 pounds and includes roof panels that can be opened, glass walls and interior benches. The skybidge itself is located directly above the City Creek Center's TRAX light rail station. SWA, which provided landscape architecture and urban design services, organized the site along the city’s street-grid to keep City Creek Center integrated to the urban fabric and took inspiration from the town’s original City Creek to create a 1.2 km waterway traversing the property as a pedestrian-oriented green space. Other elements of the landscape design support the overall concept of urban living, with pocket parks, roof gardens, and landscape connections throughout the project. 35 The City Creek Center is anchored by two national department stores: Nordstrom and Macy's. Nordstrom has a two-level, 124,000 sq ft store located on West Temple Street, and Macy’s occupies a three-level store of 150,000 sq ft, located on the east block of Main Street. There is approximately 300,000 sq ft of additional retail space for specialty stores. A Harmons grocery store is located on the east most block, at the corner of 100 South and 200 East streets. The northeast area containing the Key Bank Tower and adjoining Eagle Gate Tower contains the Food Court with a view to the west. The mall has a valet-assisted underground parking located under the Key Bank Tower. There are approximately 300 housing units, consisting of condos and apartments, in the City Creek Center located in five residential towers. Other apartments are mostly built along 100 South Street, with some constructed along South Temple Street as well. The Marriott Downtown at City Creek Hotel is the only hotel located in the City Creek Center. The LDS Church has stated that no tithing money was used for construction of the complex, with the project financed through the church's commercial real-estate arm, Property Reserve, Inc. In 2008, the Sierra Club praised the church for being "good stewards" of the environment in its City Creek Center development. 36